Dude!!! You are a genius!!! I tried for several hours with breaker bars, heat, penetrant, impact gun and couldn’t get it loose… part of the issue was keeping the tool seated in the splines… I went to RUclips again to try to find another hack or trick of some sort… I came across this video and thought, this looks like the key! … I had the tools but needed a longer screw… I went to Ace Hardware and got the proper length screw then screwed the tool onto the shaft… I heated the metal then had my wife stand one the front of bike while I pushed down hard on the breaker bar… then like a miracle the bottom bracket turned!!! Great Success! Thank you thank you thank! I have hundreds of dollars in parts coming to restore this old bike and I was worried I would never get this off and I’d have to pitch the bike… this made my weekend!!!
I want to thank you so so so much. I had been trying to use a socket wrench on the removal tool to loosen the non-drive side. No matter how hard I tried, nothing. Then I saw you use a big wrench, which allowed you to hold everything tightly in place with your free hand. I tried that, and it broke free. Blessings to you!
This is the gift that keeps on giving. Wouldn't have occurred to me to put a bolt on there! I put a bolt on, hit it with my heat gun, and stomped on it. BOOM! Finally got it loose. Thanks for saving me a lot of frustration!
Wow so simple and effective. First video I have come across that tackles a seized bottom bracket and to use a bolt and washer to hold the tool on, why didn't I think of that. Excellent video thanks for uploading!
2:30 what !! Shit, why didn't I think of this?, You saved me !! I was in trouble, I couldn't open the bottom bracket with that tool alone, it always fell off, It was so clogged, I couldn't move it, but with your idea, I can open it. Thank you very much .
Hi Sir. REALLY helpful! Fantastic idea using the headset cup. I had to drill out the hole of a spare one I had to 8mm, but it worked with the breaker bar! Thanks! 😊
Good, basic instructions. I have just followed that to successfully remove my BB cup. I did give it a squirt of Plusgas penetration oil to ease its progress beforehand. It genuinely seems to help on all sticky threads.
Mostly headset caps are gonna fit with M5 screw, just get a big washer that fits your crank bolt instead of the headset cap, I removed mine firstly on the non drive side ( the cup ) to flood it with WD-40 or oil to make the drive side ( unit ) easier to unscrew, and I broken loose the drive side with the adjustable wrench with a long pipe
well mine was a lot more stuck. what worked for me was flap wheeling the face of the thing until all tool fittings were gone and it was flush with the bottom bracket shell. then using a die grinder with a burr bit i carved through the race in 2 places on opposite sides. a hack saw would be great here in theory but the race is so hard, all the teeth on your hacksaw just wear down in seconds. so after turning the threaded race into 2 parts, you are able to pry it away from the threads. this leaves damage in 2 places in the bottom bracket threads but its better than throwing the bike in the garbage.
@ 3:00 You said M7 bolt. I don't know if that's correct. In my case, I used a m8 bolt x 1.0 pitch (pitch is important as 1.25 pitch would not work) and 50mm long to secure a BB removal tool to the taper (with a 3mm spacer)
@@DanyoSports Interesting. I thought the crank bolts would be universal in diameter and pitch. I think it's also worth pointing out that if both sides are tight, take the cup side off first otherwise you won't have a spindle to screw onto and make sure to loosen the bolt a little on cup side as you untighten so you have space to allow the tool to back out.
I bought a new bike to put my Bafang mid-motor kit on it. I got thr cranks off. Can get that tool to stay in the grooves. Im stripping the threads. I might have to carefully drill it out and use tiny hacksaw. I just want to get shimano bracket set out for my motor.
@@nzo_6543 i finally used a long piece of metal and put it between the arm the frame on one side the another thing on the opposite side (180deg) and i finally pulled it out, I first used a hammer and a screwdriver but it didnt even flinch..
@@aioaneiflorin1775 if your non drive side is easy to remove then soak it with WD-40, I think it makes the drive side little easier to remove, because I did the same thing, but I soaked my non drive side removed cup with only only, and i got broken loose with an adjustable wrench with long pipe to add more leverage. with oil,
even with all the specialized proper tools, some are far too stuck to be removed conventionally. i work in a bike shop and many times have had to use grinders, saws, torches etc ALONG with the proper tools and enough leverage
Not all bottom bracket bolts are M7, I ordered M7 x 40mm to do what you said only to discover that the bolts on my Carrera Karkinos are M8, so I got M8 x 40mm, bottom bracket still wouldn't budge, then we clamped the adjustable spanner to a scaffolding pole with a flattened end, still wouldn't move, heated the bottom bracket up and tried again, this time two of us were pushing down on the scaffolding pry bar extension when the pressure became too much and the jaws of my heavy duty stanley adjustable snapped. I don't believe that your video is very truthful, that bottom bracket that you showed, the one that was allegedly rusted on, was definitely removed and then replaced for the making of your video, because there's not a chance in hell that a bottom bracket that was rusted on, released as easily as you portrayed in this video, no chance!
And before anyone says anything, Yes, we were trying to remove it in the right direction, Clockwise drive side & counter clockwise on the non-drive side., it still snapped the adjustable's jaws
Dude!!! You are a genius!!! I tried for several hours with breaker bars, heat, penetrant, impact gun and couldn’t get it loose… part of the issue was keeping the tool seated in the splines… I went to RUclips again to try to find another hack or trick of some sort… I came across this video and thought, this looks like the key! … I had the tools but needed a longer screw… I went to Ace Hardware and got the proper length screw then screwed the tool onto the shaft… I heated the metal then had my wife stand one the front of bike while I pushed down hard on the breaker bar… then like a miracle the bottom bracket turned!!! Great Success! Thank you thank you thank! I have hundreds of dollars in parts coming to restore this old bike and I was worried I would never get this off and I’d have to pitch the bike… this made my weekend!!!
I want to thank you so so so much. I had been trying to use a socket wrench on the removal tool to loosen the non-drive side. No matter how hard I tried, nothing. Then I saw you use a big wrench, which allowed you to hold everything tightly in place with your free hand. I tried that, and it broke free. Blessings to you!
The grunting helped the most. Misery loves company!
This is the gift that keeps on giving. Wouldn't have occurred to me to put a bolt on there!
I put a bolt on, hit it with my heat gun, and stomped on it. BOOM! Finally got it loose.
Thanks for saving me a lot of frustration!
The is the best, simplest and no BS video on the BB removal, superb job, thanks
Simplest is to use an impact gun, but nevertheless this is a quality method.
@@joehart3826impact guns are anything but simple
Wow so simple and effective. First video I have come across that tackles a seized bottom bracket and to use a bolt and washer to hold the tool on, why didn't I think of that.
Excellent video thanks for uploading!
Outstanding! Thank you! Look forward to attacking this task afresh tomorrow with what I just learned.
2:30 what !!
Shit, why didn't I think of this?, You saved me !!
I was in trouble, I couldn't open the bottom bracket with that tool alone, it always fell off, It was so clogged, I couldn't move it, but with your idea, I can open it.
Thank you very much .
I just did this after seeing your video and it saved me so much time and frustration 👍😃
Hi Sir. REALLY helpful! Fantastic idea using the headset cup. I had to drill out the hole of a spare one I had to 8mm, but it worked with the breaker bar! Thanks! 😊
Good, basic instructions. I have just followed that to successfully remove my BB cup. I did give it a squirt of Plusgas penetration oil to ease its progress beforehand. It genuinely seems to help on all sticky threads.
Nice tip about headset and bolting it on.
Mostly headset caps are gonna fit with M5 screw, just get a big washer that fits your crank bolt instead of the headset cap, I removed mine firstly on the non drive side ( the cup ) to flood it with WD-40 or oil to make the drive side ( unit ) easier to unscrew, and I broken loose the drive side with the adjustable wrench with a long pipe
If you don't have the "headset cap", you can also use Multi-Hole Flat Hexagon Wrench instead.
For me, spraying some penetrating oil onto both sides at least 1 hr before attempting to remove helps
If time allows, leave overnight
I had to leave overnight for multiple nights @Cassidy127
Amazing wish I’d watch this a week ago!
Oh my, this is what I'll be facing in the very near future.. time to tool up!
Nice . Some of these tricks saved me ... Thanks
The bolt and top cap as washer is brilliant and the 32mm this is a hidden secret of top mechanics !😮
Dear sir
Thank you so much for this video. Just what I needed when about giving up.
Kind regards
hey i used a Park Took BBT-22 and it snapped in half. How should i remove it if it’s that stuck
This seems to be a common problem. Wouldn't lubing the threads with anti seize compound facilitate future disassembly?
You're the best Danyo, thanks.
Excellent. Thank you so much for the effort and information.
Excellent video! Thank you! Next step, get out my heat gun.
This is a great trick. My only issue now is to get a stuck bb out with a broken spindle 🤦♂️
Wow. That thing stuck really good
well mine was a lot more stuck. what worked for me was flap wheeling the face of the thing until all tool fittings were gone and it was flush with the bottom bracket shell. then using a die grinder with a burr bit i carved through the race in 2 places on opposite sides. a hack saw would be great here in theory but the race is so hard, all the teeth on your hacksaw just wear down in seconds. so after turning the threaded race into 2 parts, you are able to pry it away from the threads. this leaves damage in 2 places in the bottom bracket threads but its better than throwing the bike in the garbage.
WD-40 bath is also helpful. Set the frame flat side ways and let the oil sit on it for hours.
I used a lever as long as the down tube t get it off, and need to clean up the threads. I thing using a Bafang motor earlier was very rough on the BB!
Great explanation. Your method worked.
@ 3:00 You said M7 bolt. I don't know if that's correct. In my case, I used a m8 bolt x 1.0 pitch (pitch is important as 1.25 pitch would not work) and 50mm long to secure a BB removal tool to the taper (with a 3mm spacer)
It was a M7 bolt in my case, I’ve tried the M6 and M8 bolts but none of them fits.
Good to know about the thread pitch, thanks for sharing.
@@DanyoSports Interesting. I thought the crank bolts would be universal in diameter and pitch. I think it's also worth pointing out that if both sides are tight, take the cup side off first otherwise you won't have a spindle to screw onto and make sure to loosen the bolt a little on cup side as you untighten so you have space to allow the tool to back out.
Who makes that shallow bottom bracket tool? The one I have is like 3 times as long so I can do this.
Great video, very helpful and 'real world' - thank you:)
Thats the way, but my crank arms are way to stubborn and won't budge, snapping a crank puller twist bolt.
Any tips on removing a uneven bottom bracket
I bought a new bike to put my Bafang mid-motor kit on it. I got thr cranks off. Can get that tool to stay in the grooves. Im stripping the threads. I might have to carefully drill it out and use tiny hacksaw. I just want to get shimano bracket set out for my motor.
very instructive!! thanks!
Must try this on my stubborn bb
This video helped me out. Thank you!
Yeah got one side out.
Could WD-40 do the job along with using the crank nut and breaker bar?
Sure, I would give it a try.
Thanks! Perfect.
What is meant by 'drive-side' and non-drive side?
drive side is the side with gearing, usually the right side of the bike
Yes, drive side is the right hand side of the bike, and non-drive side is the left hand side of the bike.
Appreciate the tips 👍
Where did u get the headset cap from i can’t find any
Thank you for that 👍
Fantastic!
Thanks for this video i'm going to prepare Can i use a 18 inch breaker bar or should i use bigger for the drive side
And what is yours ?
Yes, it should work fine, mine is a 24 inch.
You know all the tricks 😉!!
absolute legend
Very satisfying
So, clockwise to loosen?
Drive side yes
Very helpful.. Thank you
for you it was easy, i have the tool to detach the arm from the bottom bracket but the thread failed so now no tool can help me, what do I do?
Bro did you only hammer it with a screwdriver???
Well then go weld it or go to a machine shop to remove it
@@nzo_6543 i finally used a long piece of metal and put it between the arm the frame on one side the another thing on the opposite side (180deg) and i finally pulled it out, I first used a hammer and a screwdriver but it didnt even flinch..
@@aioaneiflorin1775 if your non drive side is easy to remove then soak it with WD-40, I think it makes the drive side little easier to remove, because I did the same thing, but I soaked my non drive side removed cup with only only, and i got broken loose with an adjustable wrench with long pipe to add more leverage.
with oil,
Wrost bottom bracket is square tapers i dont like but i have i need to change but it cost very very high
Good tips
Brilliant 👏
you must heat the bottom bracket only!!
absolutely correct. Heat makes metal expand
@@vmartinez71 learned it from an old man who lives in a car junk yard
I hate dealing with square taper bottom brackets. They need to make hollowtech-style standard.
WD-40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench are your friends in situations like this
Türkçe altyazı olsa ıyi ölür teşekürler
thats my todays challenge lmao
Yoo nice videoo I remembered about youu
Thanks! How’s going?
@@DanyoSports good
yeah if I had a breaker bar with a socket for my bb tool I wouldn't be searching for this video lmao
even with all the specialized proper tools, some are far too stuck to be removed conventionally. i work in a bike shop and many times have had to use grinders, saws, torches etc ALONG with the proper tools and enough leverage
no chance. my tool just slips
That relly work
Not all bottom bracket bolts are M7, I ordered M7 x 40mm to do what you said only to discover that the bolts on my Carrera Karkinos are M8, so I got M8 x 40mm, bottom bracket still wouldn't budge, then we clamped the adjustable spanner to a scaffolding pole with a flattened end, still wouldn't move, heated the bottom bracket up and tried again, this time two of us were pushing down on the scaffolding pry bar extension when the pressure became too much and the jaws of my heavy duty stanley adjustable snapped.
I don't believe that your video is very truthful, that bottom bracket that you showed, the one that was allegedly rusted on, was definitely removed and then replaced for the making of your video, because there's not a chance in hell that a bottom bracket that was rusted on, released as easily as you portrayed in this video, no chance!
And before anyone says anything, Yes, we were trying to remove it in the right direction, Clockwise drive side & counter clockwise on the non-drive side., it still snapped the adjustable's jaws
BORING BORING BORING WHAT MUSIC NOISE