Your a legend! The local lock company are trying to charge me $300 to do this (not including price of latch). Your video made me realise that even though I'm 35weeks pregnant I can do this myself. I got the cover off with my dough scrape! Many thanks boss for posting this!
Great video, thanks! Worked perfectly for me. For anyone with the same issue - I bought both an M7 and M8 bit and the (more common) M8 worked perfectly for me on my 2010 Polo. Getting the plastic trim removed was quite a task and it really feels like you’re breaking it, but it does come off safely with some force and alarming noises. Also note - after plugging in the new part to test it, it didn’t respond to any input on the key fob or door switch, so I nearly gave up - however it did work when I used the actual boot handle. So now it’s fitted and works fully now with the key fob too. Thanks again!
Firstly, great video! This really helped me to diagnose the same issue as you had - the continuity and voltage checks were both fine. Just commenting on this in case it helps anyone out in the future. Removing my boot lock mechanism required using an M8 (not an M7) spline bit which is much more likely to be included within a comprehensive socket set.
Thank you so much for this! My car boot had broken last night and my partner and I ordered the part needed and have just successfully changed it. For others looking at this video, I have a polo 2016 and I had an allen key which happened to fit the fixings for the lock (rather than M7 M8 tool). We managed to use this instead, so could be worth checking if you don’t have the specific tool.
Thanks for this. I managed to replace the boot lock using your tutorial the part you recommended for under £25. I dread to think what the garage might have charged me! Much appreciated.
Thanks for posting this, very comprehensive. As I’ve never used a multimeter before, can you provide instructions on how you used it in the video. Thanks!!
@@Robjjw999 Most multimeters have a resistance function, sometimes labelled ohms or impedance. On this setting when you connect the two probes together the meter should read a low number of ohms, close to or at zero, indicating the electrical circuit is complete.At the back of the VW boot handle there are two electrical connections, connect or hold a probe against each, the meter should read nothing or perhaps “max” indicating an open circuit, and then when you operate the boot handle the meter should read a small number of ohms or even zero, indicating that the switch inside the handle is making a connection and is not faulty. You can also buy cheap circuit tester or even make up a circuit with a bulb and battery, if you don’t have a meter. With the meter in the Voltage mode, you can also check for voltage at the end of the cable that connects to the lock mechanism. Make sure the car ignition is on, hold the negative (black) probe against a bare metal part of the cars body, like the lock striker pin and then use the red probe to test each of the pins in the lock connector while you operate the VW boot lid handle. If you can’t find any voltage at the end of the lock cable, then first thing I would look at are the fuses. Your meter can help identify any fuses that are blown, it’s not always that easy to see that they are whole just by looking at them. Good luck
When you move the white lever you need to push upwards on the boot lid at the same time to open it. If that’s not working it’s going to be painful. You might be able to get the boot cover off with the boot closed, then you can go to work on the lock mechanism with hacksaw/vice grips/screwdriver to open up the mechanism. The lock is held together with metal tabs which you should be able to prise apart. I don’t think there is enough room to get to the two bolts that hold the lock striker in place or the lock to the boot lid whilst the boot is closed As an alternative you might be able to cut through the lock “prongs” from inside the boot using a multi-tool and metal cutting blade. Good luck !
@@techstuff-cars I took the plastic panel off before using the white lever and pushed on the door at the same time (which makes sense), do you have any other suggestions?
@@IsaacAnataiaTeTamaki now that you have access to the lock, you can try to break it open using a flat blades screwdriver and hammer, or a hacksaw. Inside the lock is a small electric motor and some plastic gear wheels. If you can break open the lock case you should be able to free the lock mechanism and open the boot. Make sure you have a new lock ready to install of course !
It appears this issue persists in newer models as well. Just this morning my 2019 polo started having this exact problem. I'm going to see if this solution works later this week.
Hello, I don't know if this is related or not to the boot lock, but my boot light just stop working, I checked the fuse and also checked the bulb and everything is alright in there. I've found a forum in which the fix stated by a person was changing the boot lock, but I'm not sure 100% if that is why the light in the boot is not working. Do you know how or which wiring to the boot lock is connected to the light ?
@@iabacelicious yes there appears to be a power feed from the boot lock that goes to the boot light, so the lock might be your problem. On the wiring diagram I’m looking at, it’s the red wire with blue stripe at the boot lock. You could do a continuity test with a multimeter from there to your light bulb connector.
I wonder if there is a website that shows the timeframe to replace various parts because when you go to the shop they want at least an hour for everything :) It would be nice to know the real time for the things
There are various websites and apps out there that give estimated times, but I don’t know how they compare with official VW estimates, also the hourly rate varies widely between garages.
I have question regarding this, did the faulty bootlock messed with your indicators and things I closed my boot hard then my hazards came on on my dash it's shows my boot is open even tho it's closed can a faulty bootlock do that
Not on mine. It might be something to do with the alarm setting or activating. Some cars have a feature where if the car thinks it has been in an accident, the doors are automatically unlocked and the hazards activated but I would be surprised if that was fitted to this generation of Polo. Good luck sorting the problem
@@acljun that’s annoying, could be bad luck or maybe suggests an alignment issue between the lock and the striker pin. Ridex is one of the brands supplying the lock with a decent warranty on their pattern parts.
I had the exact same issue with mine, I changed the lock , but after a day it stopped working again, I took the boot handle off and cleaned it up then I started working normally again
I have a similar issue with my 61 plate but my boot makes a weird noise when I push the release button and i have to close it a few time for it to stay closed any advise on what could be the issue?
If you hear a noise then it sounds like the lock motor is turning. The motor has some gear wheels made out of plastic. It is possible that the teeth have worn and the mechanism is skipping when you try to operate the lock. Another possibility is that the lock and catch on the body work have become misaligned. Check that the rubber seal around the boot has not become loose or is sticking up anywhere. If the lock is misaligned, loosen the lock bolts that I show in the video and you have a little bit of play that’s you can move the lock around before you tighten it up
@techstuff-cars apologies for the late reply I kinda forgot I wanted to sort this but I suppose I have just gotten used to not daring to open the boot. If the gears have worn away is it an easy fix? Thanks for your help
@Tech Stuff - Cars Hi there! I'm after advice, I saw this video and believed this was the same issue with my 2012 Polo. I purchased a new boot lock, identical to yours including the same serial number that was listed on it. However, this doesn't seem to have been a fix. I've just purchased a multimeter and have tested all the connections on both the emblem and the boot lock itself and can't find any current flowing at all. Where would my next step potentially be? I've previously tried looking at the fuses, although I wasn't able to narrow it down to a specific fuse due to the number of diagrams that were so generic for VW as a whole. I'm thinking this is between either a fuse issue, or a wiring loom issue if you have any advice? Thank you!
It’s hard to say. Make sure the car is “alive” when you are looking for voltage, that is to say turned on and alarm deactivated. The emblem is just a switch so you should see continuity (close to zero ohms resistance) when you pull on the lever with the multimeter connected across its terminals. If there is no voltage at the locking mechanism end then hopefully it’s just a fuse that’s blown rather than damaged wiring. From what I can see online Fuse 48, under the steering wheel probably controls the boot actuator and central locking, so if your central looking is good and fuse is ok, tends to steer towards a break in the wiring.
@@techstuff-cars Really appreciate the response! I will re check the fuses. I had the ignition on, just not the engine. I must say diagnosing electrical faults is rather new to me, although I'm not a stranger to picking up tools in general so it may a case of a few hours reading. I did find it pretty difficult to get both multimeter probes onto the cabling, it felt like the contact was very minimal if any. I must correct myself as well; this is my partner's car not mine. She's just told me last night that the car was previously rear ended, and it was intermittent when she bought the car, then packed up a few weeks afterwards. The accident happened before she had the car, so I don't have any details on the damage and so on.
@@Stealthzion the car doesn’t need to be running, just the ignition on so you know the control modules are awake. If the car has had rear end damage starts to sound like wiring could be an issue. You tend to get failures where there are connectors, look for corrosion on pins, or where cables are constantly flexed, like where the cable goes into the hatchback door from the car body. Also see if there is any unusual insulation tape on the wiring where someone has maybe patched up some collision damage. Good Luck
Hi ! I got the same issue since 4 years… I’ve tried to replace both the emblem and the lock itself, working for 1 weeks and the same… But for me it doesn’t work when it’s cold / humidity, so approximately for 6 months out of twelve… So I know that it works but why humidity is a problem I can’t figure it out… 😢
That’s a strange one. Maybe you have a bad connection in the wiring. You could try some switch cleaner, or maybe gentle close the connectors with a screwdriver to get a tighter fit.
It seems to be. I prised the old lock apart and the failure point in mine was the brushes in a little electric motor that operates the lock though a series of plastic gear wheels.
If you watch the video carefully, you can open the boot by putting the key or a thin screwdriver into the slot on the plastic inner boot liner and then flicking the lever that’s inside. It’s helpful to have someone outside the car lifting the boot while you do this. Hope that helps
I got it from EBay, car spares direct www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164488203531?fits=Car+Make%3AVW%7CModel%3APolo&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item264c42cd0b:g:PfAAAOSwaYVfn9Vr&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4AsBjFASvcMk1QLIuDWR%2Bsnx9mINO1HhxFt42xvHo7WdXA2ahxHXdp8Au6hFSa6FSwrOtZj%2Fl5C%2FdLPMA8psafjxy5MxQtKdBjuv5qLDa2MYhiqM3tyOg6tRgOHe7JullaP%2BTLdy8nW%2FIwnBSJgFLha7z59dft1M3VQpmT6hWQ%2FnqzG7b%2BRe8PyfKJfcKY1pseL5WPzohgn5B8Sx%2B6tFXeEn24fHepBfb6GUR4B%2BDhzQ8fJMJpoRC93y0SAK7By4Qzp7lDZD2zY5y4cItIUY66tp%2BYfib1QQk4LDs%2Bm8Til1%7Ctkp%3ABFBMlJPWuYtg
@@NayarJoolfoo it could be a loose electrical connection, or maybe the latch is binding on the striker on the body. You could try loosening the two M7 latch bolts and repositioning the latch slightly to see if that helps.
Get access to the boot space from inside the car by folding the rear seats down. There is a small slot in the plastic cover of the boot lid, just above the lock mechanism. Use a small screwdriver, or even the ignition key, to flick the lever inside the slot while someone operates the boot handle from outside. I cant recall if you need to move the lever to the left or the right ! you can see the slot in the cover in my video. Good luck
Hi, if you get into the boot by putting down the back seats you will find there is a small slot in the interior panel of the hatch. Put a thin screwdriver or even your ignition key into the slot and flick the lever while pushing upwards on the hatch and it will open.
On the four wire plug, two of the wires had +12V. Make sure the car ignition is turned on. I took the old lock apart, there is a gearbox and a small electric motor inside. The brushes were burnt out on the electric motor.
@@talhamohammed781 I don’t recall now. One may have been a ground. You may be able to find a wiring diagram online, search for “installing a boot light in a VW Polo”, they have posted a diagram on their website
@@techstuff-cars Hi there! I'm after advice, I saw this video and believed this was the same issue with my 2012 Polo. I purchased a new boot lock, identical to yours including the same serial number that was listed on it. However, this doesn't seem to have been a fix. I've just purchased a multimetre and have tested all the connections on both the emblem and the boot lock itself and can't find any current flowing at all. Where would my next step potentially be? I've previously tried looking at the fuses, although I wasn't able to narrow it down to a specific fuse due to the number of diagrams that were so generic for VW as a whole. I'm thinking this is between either a fuse issue, or a wiring loom issue if you have any advice? Thank you!
@@techstuff-cars It's not duration but rather use, the Polo is used for school runs with the boot opened every time at both ends. Plus there is a little luck of course.
@@M896 Must be a big issue for VW as I’ve had nearly 100,000 views of this video. When I took the old one apart it looked like the brushes had gone on the motor inside the lock rather than the plastic gears failing. Since I made the video, I see some “branded” clone parts are available now from the likes of Ridex, they have a 24 month guarantee of many of their parts, so maybe better quality?
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Your a legend!
The local lock company are trying to charge me $300 to do this (not including price of latch).
Your video made me realise that even though I'm 35weeks pregnant I can do this myself.
I got the cover off with my dough scrape!
Many thanks boss for posting this!
Well done and wish you well for your new baby.
Great video, thanks! Worked perfectly for me. For anyone with the same issue - I bought both an M7 and M8 bit and the (more common) M8 worked perfectly for me on my 2010 Polo. Getting the plastic trim removed was quite a task and it really feels like you’re breaking it, but it does come off safely with some force and alarming noises. Also note - after plugging in the new part to test it, it didn’t respond to any input on the key fob or door switch, so I nearly gave up - however it did work when I used the actual boot handle. So now it’s fitted and works fully now with the key fob too. Thanks again!
Firstly, great video! This really helped me to diagnose the same issue as you had - the continuity and voltage checks were both fine. Just commenting on this in case it helps anyone out in the future. Removing my boot lock mechanism required using an M8 (not an M7) spline bit which is much more likely to be included within a comprehensive socket set.
in my case (2013 Polo) it's an M7, which is annoying as M7 bits are hard to find. Had to use the dreaded amazon
Thank you so much for this! My car boot had broken last night and my partner and I ordered the part needed and have just successfully changed it. For others looking at this video, I have a polo 2016 and I had an allen key which happened to fit the fixings for the lock (rather than M7 M8 tool). We managed to use this instead, so could be worth checking if you don’t have the specific tool.
@@bethant3658 thanks, good observation, worth checking before you buy the 12 point bit.
Thanks for this. I managed to replace the boot lock using your tutorial the part you recommended for under £25. I dread to think what the garage might have charged me! Much appreciated.
Glad it worked for you. Judging by the number of views this video has had, it seems to be a very common fault.
Brilliant video, many thanks. I had to use an adjustable spanner to get more leverage on the M7 bolts but I got there eventually!
Thanks for posting this, very comprehensive. As I’ve never used a multimeter before, can you provide instructions on how you used it in the video. Thanks!!
@@Robjjw999 Most multimeters have a resistance function, sometimes labelled ohms or impedance. On this setting when you connect the two probes together the meter should read a low number of ohms, close to or at zero, indicating the electrical circuit is complete.At the back of the VW boot handle there are two electrical connections, connect or hold a probe against each, the meter should read nothing or perhaps “max” indicating an open circuit, and then when you operate the boot handle the meter should read a small number of ohms or even zero, indicating that the switch inside the handle is making a connection and is not faulty. You can also buy cheap circuit tester or even make up a circuit with a bulb and battery, if you don’t have a meter. With the meter in the Voltage mode, you can also check for voltage at the end of the cable that connects to the lock mechanism. Make sure the car ignition is on, hold the negative (black) probe against a bare metal part of the cars body, like the lock striker pin and then use the red probe to test each of the pins in the lock connector while you operate the VW boot lid handle. If you can’t find any voltage at the end of the lock cable, then first thing I would look at are the fuses. Your meter can help identify any fuses that are blown, it’s not always that easy to see that they are whole just by looking at them. Good luck
@@techstuff-cars Wow. Thanks for the detailed, comprehensive reply. Greatly appreciated.
Thank you for teaching I've learned a lot hope you post more videos of vw
Thanks. I will post some new content soon
Hiya, what if the white part you used to open the boot doesn’t work? Can you advise how else to open the boot please?
When you move the white lever you need to push upwards on the boot lid at the same time to open it. If that’s not working it’s going to be painful. You might be able to get the boot cover off with the boot closed, then you can go to work on the lock mechanism with hacksaw/vice grips/screwdriver to open up the mechanism. The lock is held together with metal tabs which you should be able to prise apart. I don’t think there is enough room to get to the two bolts that hold the lock striker in place or the lock to the boot lid whilst the boot is closed As an alternative you might be able to cut through the lock “prongs” from inside the boot using a multi-tool and metal cutting blade. Good luck !
@@techstuff-cars I took the plastic panel off before using the white lever and pushed on the door at the same time (which makes sense), do you have any other suggestions?
@@IsaacAnataiaTeTamaki now that you have access to the lock, you can try to break it open using a flat blades screwdriver and hammer, or a hacksaw. Inside the lock is a small electric motor and some plastic gear wheels. If you can break open the lock case you should be able to free the lock mechanism and open the boot. Make sure you have a new lock ready to install of course !
It appears this issue persists in newer models as well. Just this morning my 2019 polo started having this exact problem. I'm going to see if this solution works later this week.
Good luck with it, and let me know how it goes
Hello, I don't know if this is related or not to the boot lock, but my boot light just stop working, I checked the fuse and also checked the bulb and everything is alright in there. I've found a forum in which the fix stated by a person was changing the boot lock, but I'm not sure 100% if that is why the light in the boot is not working. Do you know how or which wiring to the boot lock is connected to the light ?
@@iabacelicious yes there appears to be a power feed from the boot lock that goes to the boot light, so the lock might be your problem. On the wiring diagram I’m looking at, it’s the red wire with blue stripe at the boot lock. You could do a continuity test with a multimeter from there to your light bulb connector.
@@techstuff-cars Thank you for the fast reply, I will check tomorrow
I wonder if there is a website that shows the timeframe to replace various parts because when you go to the shop they want at least an hour for everything :) It would be nice to know the real time for the things
There are various websites and apps out there that give estimated times, but I don’t know how they compare with official VW estimates, also the hourly rate varies widely between garages.
I have question regarding this, did the faulty bootlock messed with your indicators and things I closed my boot hard then my hazards came on on my dash it's shows my boot is open even tho it's closed can a faulty bootlock do that
Not on mine. It might be something to do with the alarm setting or activating. Some cars have a feature where if the car thinks it has been in an accident, the doors are automatically unlocked and the hazards activated but I would be surprised if that was fitted to this generation of Polo. Good luck sorting the problem
I'm not sure if it's the eBay bad quality latches, but I've changed mine twice and both have stopped working after a couple of days.
@@acljun that’s annoying, could be bad luck or maybe suggests an alignment issue between the lock and the striker pin. Ridex is one of the brands supplying the lock with a decent warranty on their pattern parts.
I had the exact same issue with mine, I changed the lock , but after a day it stopped working again, I took the boot handle off and cleaned it up then I started working normally again
Thank you. Perfect little video 👍
I have a similar issue with my 61 plate but my boot makes a weird noise when I push the release button and i have to close it a few time for it to stay closed any advise on what could be the issue?
If you hear a noise then it sounds like the lock motor is turning. The motor has some gear wheels made out of plastic. It is possible that the teeth have worn and the mechanism is skipping when you try to operate the lock. Another possibility is that the lock and catch on the body work have become misaligned. Check that the rubber seal around the boot has not become loose or is sticking up anywhere. If the lock is misaligned, loosen the lock bolts that I show in the video and you have a little bit of play that’s you can move the lock around before you tighten it up
@techstuff-cars apologies for the late reply I kinda forgot I wanted to sort this but I suppose I have just gotten used to not daring to open the boot. If the gears have worn away is it an easy fix? Thanks for your help
@Tech Stuff - Cars Hi there! I'm after advice, I saw this video and believed this was the same issue with my 2012 Polo. I purchased a new boot lock, identical to yours including the same serial number that was listed on it. However, this doesn't seem to have been a fix. I've just purchased a multimeter and have tested all the connections on both the emblem and the boot lock itself and can't find any current flowing at all.
Where would my next step potentially be? I've previously tried looking at the fuses, although I wasn't able to narrow it down to a specific fuse due to the number of diagrams that were so generic for VW as a whole. I'm thinking this is between either a fuse issue, or a wiring loom issue if you have any advice? Thank you!
It’s hard to say. Make sure the car is “alive” when you are looking for voltage, that is to say turned on and alarm deactivated. The emblem is just a switch so you should see continuity (close to zero ohms resistance) when you pull on the lever with the multimeter connected across its terminals. If there is no voltage at the locking mechanism end then hopefully it’s just a fuse that’s blown rather than damaged wiring. From what I can see online Fuse 48, under the steering wheel probably controls the boot actuator and central locking, so if your central looking is good and fuse is ok, tends to steer towards a break in the wiring.
@@techstuff-cars Really appreciate the response! I will re check the fuses. I had the ignition on, just not the engine. I must say diagnosing electrical faults is rather new to me, although I'm not a stranger to picking up tools in general so it may a case of a few hours reading.
I did find it pretty difficult to get both multimeter probes onto the cabling, it felt like the contact was very minimal if any.
I must correct myself as well; this is my partner's car not mine. She's just told me last night that the car was previously rear ended, and it was intermittent when she bought the car, then packed up a few weeks afterwards.
The accident happened before she had the car, so I don't have any details on the damage and so on.
@@Stealthzion the car doesn’t need to be running, just the ignition on so you know the control modules are awake. If the car has had rear end damage starts to sound like wiring could be an issue. You tend to get failures where there are connectors, look for corrosion on pins, or where cables are constantly flexed, like where the cable goes into the hatchback door from the car body. Also see if there is any unusual insulation tape on the wiring where someone has maybe patched up some collision damage. Good Luck
Hi, did you get any help?, mine it just unlocks/opens itself without me touching anything....it does whether car is parked or driving. Pls help🥺
@@sbusisoblessing4707direct short on a wiring loom
Hi ! I got the same issue since 4 years… I’ve tried to replace both the emblem and the lock itself, working for 1 weeks and the same… But for me it doesn’t work when it’s cold / humidity, so approximately for 6 months out of twelve… So I know that it works but why humidity is a problem I can’t figure it out… 😢
That’s a strange one. Maybe you have a bad connection in the wiring. You could try some switch cleaner, or maybe gentle close the connectors with a screwdriver to get a tighter fit.
Perfect thanks. I’m
Guessing this is a common fault with the polo
It seems to be. I prised the old lock apart and the failure point in mine was the brushes in a little electric motor that operates the lock though a series of plastic gear wheels.
Yes but you have the boot open already, what if you can’t get inside the boot?
If you watch the video carefully, you can open the boot by putting the key or a thin screwdriver into the slot on the plastic inner boot liner and then flicking the lever that’s inside. It’s helpful to have someone outside the car lifting the boot while you do this. Hope that helps
Also where can I get the 12 spline bit. Can u post a link please
This is the one I bought www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384265063166?epid=24038232903&hash=item5977fb8afe:g:yXYAAOSwCGtg5wYh
You have the part number for the boot lock?
I got it from EBay, car spares direct www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164488203531?fits=Car+Make%3AVW%7CModel%3APolo&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item264c42cd0b:g:PfAAAOSwaYVfn9Vr&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4AsBjFASvcMk1QLIuDWR%2Bsnx9mINO1HhxFt42xvHo7WdXA2ahxHXdp8Au6hFSa6FSwrOtZj%2Fl5C%2FdLPMA8psafjxy5MxQtKdBjuv5qLDa2MYhiqM3tyOg6tRgOHe7JullaP%2BTLdy8nW%2FIwnBSJgFLha7z59dft1M3VQpmT6hWQ%2FnqzG7b%2BRe8PyfKJfcKY1pseL5WPzohgn5B8Sx%2B6tFXeEn24fHepBfb6GUR4B%2BDhzQ8fJMJpoRC93y0SAK7By4Qzp7lDZD2zY5y4cItIUY66tp%2BYfib1QQk4LDs%2Bm8Til1%7Ctkp%3ABFBMlJPWuYtg
Mine works randomly now. Depending on its mood
@@NayarJoolfoo it could be a loose electrical connection, or maybe the latch is binding on the striker on the body. You could try loosening the two M7 latch bolts and repositioning the latch slightly to see if that helps.
How did you open the boot to do this ?
Get access to the boot space from inside the car by folding the rear seats down. There is a small slot in the plastic cover of the boot lid, just above the lock mechanism. Use a small screwdriver, or even the ignition key, to flick the lever inside the slot while someone operates the boot handle from outside. I cant recall if you need to move the lever to the left or the right ! you can see the slot in the cover in my video. Good luck
Where did u buy the M7 12 spline bit from? Can you link it?
I bought the Sealey brand bit from Absolute Supplies www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384265063166 they do it in a 3/8 and 1/2 drive
Gracias! El número de pieza en México para el polo 2014 es 6r0827505b la encontré en mercado libre por 300 pesos
I can’t find m7 😕😕 maybe it’s also m8???
This is the one I bought, made by Sealey www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384265063166?epid=24038232903&hash=item5977fb8afe:g:yXYAAOSwCGtg5wYh
Thank u so much!!!
What are the voltages u got in that wiring
He checked for continuity not voltage.
First he said the boot won't open... How did it open to get to that emergency pully?
Hi, if you get into the boot by putting down the back seats you will find there is a small slot in the interior panel of the hatch. Put a thin screwdriver or even your ignition key into the slot and flick the lever while pushing upwards on the hatch and it will open.
You can see the slot in the panel at 35 seconds into the video. You need to move the lever behind the slot to the left.
Thank you
But how you going to see a slot because it’s closed and not opening. The only way you can see a slot is when your boots is open
@@mpendukoluthuli9963 Hi, lay the back seats down and crawl into the boot space.
Please share the voltages
On the four wire plug, two of the wires had +12V. Make sure the car ignition is turned on. I took the old lock apart, there is a gearbox and a small electric motor inside. The brushes were burnt out on the electric motor.
@@techstuff-cars and other two wires ???
@@talhamohammed781 I don’t recall now. One may have been a ground. You may be able to find a wiring diagram online, search for “installing a boot light in a VW Polo”, they have posted a diagram on their website
@@techstuff-cars Hi there! I'm after advice, I saw this video and believed this was the same issue with my 2012 Polo. I purchased a new boot lock, identical to yours including the same serial number that was listed on it. However, this doesn't seem to have been a fix. I've just purchased a multimetre and have tested all the connections on both the emblem and the boot lock itself and can't find any current flowing at all.
Where would my next step potentially be? I've previously tried looking at the fuses, although I wasn't able to narrow it down to a specific fuse due to the number of diagrams that were so generic for VW as a whole. I'm thinking this is between either a fuse issue, or a wiring loom issue if you have any advice? Thank you!
Бори. Гттмоылиорпгпэтх🎉🎉🎉🎉бис
these ebay actuators are utter garbage, mine latest 5 months!
Sorry to hear that. Mine still going strong after 2 and a half years
@@techstuff-cars It's not duration but rather use, the Polo is used for school runs with the boot opened every time at both ends. Plus there is a little luck of course.
@@M896 Must be a big issue for VW as I’ve had nearly 100,000 views of this video. When I took the old one apart it looked like the brushes had gone on the motor inside the lock rather than the plastic gears failing. Since I made the video, I see some “branded” clone parts are available now from the likes of Ridex, they have a 24 month guarantee of many of their parts, so maybe better quality?
Id this a joke? How can you take inside bits off if you can’t open the boot?
@@nikkijcarter there is a hole through which you can release the catch with a screwdriver