Hello Karl, love your channel My name is Rob Smit and I have a small fabrication shop in the Central Tablelands in NSW Australia I have built a lot of cooling systems over the years and and if you are interested here is my observation of your new truck system. When you put a larger core radiator on that is 3,4 or five core radiator you new the horsepower behind an engine driven fan. Electric fans up against the core or on a shroud sealed to the radiator core if used on a thick core cannot achieve their top speed as they do not have the kilowatts/horsepower to get to their rated rpm. An engine driven fan will use typically around 20 horsepower at high rpm. For the electric fans to work use a single or two core radiator. Check for yourself if you pull the fans just back a little they move heaps of air.. Attach the fans to a single or twin core they still will move heaps of air but put it behind a five core and the air moved is dramatically reduced. Hope my 10 cents helps a little. Again I love your channel you are living my dream thankyou for the fabulous content I love it Regards Rob Smit
Man I kind of do what you do for a living, 10 hours a day but I never get tired of watching your videos…..I learn a lot of things that makes me a better artisan and I can pass that along to my younger guys and help them to be better……thanks for all you do my friend Hey by the way, grind that mushroom head off of your glorified gasket scraper that’s killing my OCD lol
I built a tubing bead tool years ago that I've used on tubing all the way up to 4" turbo pipes. It's three pieces of curved 1/4" round bar welded to vice grips. Make a line on the pipe to follow, adjust the vice grips for depth & crimp on. It also works as a brake hose crimp tool when doing brakes. ps.. I see a lot of gaps around that radiator installation that will allow the hot air to go back around for another pass through the core. A simple four sided diffuser duct from the front of the radiator to the front of the cab will ensure only ambient air will go through the core. When the air temp going through the core is the same as core temp you have no heat exchange!
As someone who doesn't have the money or space for CNC anything or the patience to learn CAD software I greatly appreciate it when you focus on the scab it together, trim it to fit approach.
The steam line should always be connected to the highest point of the radiator tank to allow for air during filling and steam during operation to purge from system. Sounds like you were fighting a partial air lock in the heads since they were higher. Always a good idea to replace the water pump as you did. Cheap insurance. Glad you're making progress. Love the channel!
Home built by Jeff was having cooling issues. He finally solved it by baffling the radiator header tanks to force the coolant to travel farther through the radiator. Instead of going directly from one tank straight across to the other, the coolant passed back and forth. More dwell time in the rad gives the coolant more time to shed heat and it solved the issue.
That is why when I take the thermostat out I put the restriction plate back in, ( cut the centre out ) ,glad it got sorted, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Came across the same problems with missing beads in my cooling pipes. Made a die in my lathe and used my lathe as a beadroller. Love those workshop stories. There are so many solutions to the same problem,, if you use your hands and brains, with the material you have. Spot on mate. Always a pleasure to watch your journey 💪
Being more of a butcher than you guys I wrap a piece of wire around the tube and then flow a little solder onto it. Nobody can see it and it works fine 😊
Really appreciate how you and Elio approach problem solving and fabrication...your enthusiasm is infectious and highly entertaining! Go Japhands and Elio, keep moving forward!
I love the excitement "I built a thing I needed!", then the immediate realization that "I could've just bought it"! hahah! I do the same thing. My justification is that it wasn't time wasted, it was time enjoyed. Glad you were able to fix up the cooling issue! It would be really cool to see it in person some day (south of your border). Keep up the awesome work guys!
You could keep the engine operating in the power band by down shifting the transmission. If you have a 5 speed drop into 3rd gear going up and down steep hills at less than 40kmh. It should help with engine cooling and save your brakes going down hill. Brakes should be used moderately on down grades and then released and allow the speed to increase slightly before repeating. If applied continously on long down grades they WILL fade out and you will be wishing for a runaway escape lane to be nearby. I'm a retired CDL Driver with 28 years experience. I hope this is helpful. I enjoy your videos and I await the next one.
Evening sir, as an old pipe fitter/maintenance guy, for smaller NPT threads try a product called SWAK by Swagelok. Anaerobic pipe thread sealant. Very effective, but not dirt cheap. Excellent for stainless fittings
I used to go through tubes of SWAK every week - great stuff . Loctite PST 565 is pretty much the same thing, cheaper and available everywhere. Whatever you find you never have to worry about winding it on the right way or have bits of teflon floating through the system. ❤
There is a plug in the rear of the opposite head you can use for a secondary coolant temp port, or use the factory LS temp sensor output from the ECU to a gauge with the right resistance. I have seen trouble with a top mounted coolant temp sensor when air is present in the system and the gauge fluctuates as you are describing under a load. One other subscriber mentioned vacuuming down the cooling system (air-lift) that is definitely recommended if you have the ability/tool. You are also on the right Track by moving the steam pipe back to the highest point in the system.
Had a cooling issue with my 78 courier that drove me nuts for a couple weeks. came to find the impeller was free wheeling on the shaft like a de-clutching engine fan. 🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
Love seeing you make tools! I would've probably just laid a bead of weld around the circumfrance at the ends of the pipe to stop the hose from walking. Your way is much more professional.
I’ve done the weld bead several times and the hoses never popped off. Takes 30 seconds. However if I had a shop loaded with cool equipment like Carl , I’d make a tool as well
If you find it's still overheating when you are loading it down I'd be checking to see if you have a head gasket issue. I haven't seen all the vids on this but I'd be getting the over flow bottle sniffed. If you don't have a buddy shop with one I'll help you. I'm in south van so not a huge drive. On the house. Love your style.
Make sure you have the right mix coolant, 100% AF will not cool efficiently, it needs water for proper heat transfer. The suggestion to vacuum fill it is also valid. I believe they have cheap ones at Princess Auto.
cavitation is wild. Super heated imploding bubbles. crazy hot.... I've had to put a different pulley on my water pump, because it now revs to 8,000rpm. cavitation was badly eating my aluminum thermostat housing after just 1200km. love your channel
I have a 460 in a box truck that kept overheating in a similar manner. I tried everything I could think of, threw all the usual parts at it. No change. Bought one of those no spill radiator filler funnels that mount up on where the radiator cap goes and having the coolant level up at that higher position while running it up to temp burped out an air pocket from somewhere inside the engine that was trapped and it stays dead cool no matter what now.
@@javman03 Vortecs and SBCs and V6s from early-mid 90s also benefit from this. Ordinarily, they fill & purge from overflow bottle mounted as highest tank... But it can be a sign of a cracked head or gasket if system stops drawing coolant back into radiator as it cools ( a "vacuum leak" somewhere in cooling system. External leak should obvious, but not always... Heater core, etc)
have you made sure your existing radiator isn't partially blocked? larger core may be the best solution if all else is functioning as intended. you could also test the flow rate also with a couple large buckets of water
I saw someone do tube beading on a legit pullmax recently. I also built a Karlmax bead profiler recently. I was planning to build some pipe dies, basically the same way you did here. You beat me to it!
Cavitation is actually air bubbles exploding, that was the sound of rocks you heard. The other thing is putting the temp sending unit and steam hose is the same area is a bad idea. Steam port could actually be heating the sender and giving a false reading. I suspect the temp is lower than what your gauge is showing. Is your trans cooler part of the radiator? If there is air in that part of the hose, that will give a false reading too.
Something I have run into in the past when doing engine swaps, especially when changing accessories. Make sure your water pump and alternator are running the correct direction. If belt routing changes it could cause a water pump to run backwards.
That’s a bad spot for the temp sensor, a mechanical gauge in the head would be a good way to prove if it’s actually overheating. Good call moving the steam port too, it should always go to the highest point. Be damn sure there’s no air trapped in the system somewhere, LS were kinda known for that, I think they normally vacuum fill them 👍
You have a thermal expansion problem under load on race car we would always have a expansion tank higher than the thermostat height also we would make a swirl pot .The water comming out of the engine goes through the swirl pot into the top radiator hose on top off the pot a hose runs into the high mounted expansion tank. Google swirl pots and it will give you ideas to fix your problem. I've always put swirl pots on all race and rally cars I've built. Hope information helps.
Carl love the channel. The other thing that adds heat to radiator is the cooler being to close to radiator we place our trans cooler away from the radiator and also add a small fan on cooler when we thi k its heating up on hills climbing. It help has big time.
Nice work on the cooling system fix. May be picky but I'd have shortened the upper rad hose where it attaches the rad. Just to move the electrical sensor away from the metal framing a bit more. Look forward to seeing more. Be safe and stay well.
Hey Karl great videos, I made 1 1/8 x 1/4 thick aluminum disc with a radius on the outer edge. I bolt it to the upper shaft on my bead roller, then position the 3/8" female lower bead die centered on the aluminum radius then you can put the bead on your thin pipe real easy.
As usual awesome job, I agree with your brother that you have a water problem not an air supply problem. I think you are going find that you have to have a tank off the Radiator to allow for the expansion of the system when the engine is at temperature. The exact reason coolant tanks have min/max levels that must be maintained.
There is an Old Jeep trick for keeping the Temp Down. Use something like an old Windshield Washer system, when it starts getting hot, Spray water in front of the radiator.
That does work except....if your in dusty environments nope! An actual example in my line of current work, customer has a grasshopper 725D and when his unit was getting hot he would stop and spray water on the radiator fins to cool it down and well long story short, it plugged the fins with dirt dust particles and burned up the engine. There's a place for every trick keep that in mind.
Red E Volkswagen shop in SLC makes a water sprayer to blast into the fan on an air cooled VW. Great for those hot days when you’re pulling a hill in a loaded down VW bus.
@@MakeItKustom Both of my older brothers had Grand Cherokees. And did a lot of off roading in the Rocky Mountains. They claimed it was the best way to keep the temp down while rock crawling.
14:51 I was gonna say that I assume ya’ll know the LS motors use a reverse rotation water pump? Make sure you got the right one and the belts are routed to rotate it the right direction.
Great video im having the same problem with my big block street car it has a pair of electric fans and dont cool so im going to get some fans that pull more cfm.
If thats a one wire sensor I’m surprised the temp gauge is working considering the outer threaded part needs to be grounded (usually in the engine block), I usually ground the pipe if it’s been fitted in a rubber hose like you have it fitted, with no grounding to thread.
15:15 Do you have a dedicated LS Radiator? They have ports in the tanks on them for that very reason. I'm just throwing this out there. I don't remember if you used an LS radiator when dropping the engine in the frame on this build.
I love your and Brent's channels, Always hoping to find some one redoing a 1954 Chevy 2dr hardtop loaded with all the chrome, beautiful car when new I loved the look. Jack
I’ve seen on other RUclips channels where they modified an old set of vice grips to create a bead on tubing for turbo motors to keep the silicone hoses from blowing off under boost. It would probably be a total pain on that galvanized pipe. Besides modifying the hammer jammer is much better content. Well at least the cooling issue seems to be solved with a new water pump and that doohickey. Hopefully the Lucas mystery goop solves your transmission issue. 🍻
Yes you could have probably stuck the tube in the lower end to keep the hose from collapsing I believe the suction and heated water didn't allow good flow but your probably better than before by far with that job well done. Very interesting
When grinder hit floor, i was about to comment exactly what you said. Those who know have been there. Some of us got lucky and didnt get hit with shrapnel. Did you ever pull starter to make sure bendix gear still has a spring return? Its a common LS issue. Gauge sender needs a ground so need to weld a tab to the pipe also.
Do you have a cab heater core connected to the cooling system? If not you need to loop the heater connections at the water pump. If you are using the heater core the shutoff valve should have a bypass back to the water pump when closed and just not block the flow.
Have you tested the radiator cap for pressure? If it is weak it will allow the engine to over heat when under load. Also if the thermostat is not closing the coolant passes through the radiator to fast to cool. Does your engine have an air bleed in the cooling system?
I was involved in a 500 Cadillac swap into a c10 . It's over heating was caused by airflow restrictions after the radiator, In our case, trimming the fan shroud allowed better airflow around the front of the engine . Or maybe airflow can't leave the engine bay . It's probably going to have several solutions
As a thought, to make sure there is not trapped air in the cooling system, put a bleeder valve in the back of the block at a high point. Open, run motor, water come out, close valve.....worth a try...
Just a thought about the position of the temperature sender in relation to the thermostat, if the thermostat does not open the temperature sensor will not detect the engine overheating,
I knew someone who changed the idler then the alternator and finally the water pump and the rattle was still there then one day the front pully stopped turning, the rattle was the crank had cracked in the front journal but as the crack was at an angle it took some time for front pully to move forward just enough to disengage from the rest of the crank, came across another case where the owner complained of a rattle and it was the front crank webb that had broken in two but the engine still kept running. I am surprised the temperature gauge works at all as I did not see an earth on the sender where you installed it.
Just a quick thought with the cooling system issue. You guys haven't changed or added to the accesory locations so that belt rotation has chainged on the waterpump?
Cavitation can sound marbles banging around I just did same steam Port setup on my Chevelle Buddy has a couple cars with water pump Port But top of rad isn't as far above engine in his car as your set up
LS engines historically had some weird cooling concerns. My 2004 5.3 sucked most of the "orange coolant" through the combustion chambers and out the exhaust., That was at 102K miles. I added a couple of bottles of BARRS LOCK block sealant to the radiator and used water then crossed my fingers. The BARRS LOCK successfully sealed the block and I have driven it an additional 160K miles. I will admit that the vehicle has had two water pumps and one radiator replacement. The steam port will pressurize the flow of water in the pump. During the water pump replacement and the radiator replacements coolant and corrosion trash was found which I suspect contributed to our coolant woes. GOOD LUCK on your journey.
I cannot recommend this. If coolant is going through the combustion chambers, your head gasket is likely bad. Any sort of “sealant” added to the cooling system can close off coolant passages, likely why you had to put a radiator in it. It’s an LS, a new head gasket takes a few hours to install. You’ve been lucky getting that many miles out of it like that. Often times I’ve seen sealants like that completely seal shut the coolant passages either at the head or at the block, where the head gasket is, causing more issues than it solves
Drill a hole in the inner die and weld in a steel ball sticking up. Take the pump more appart. push a flex magnet into the block and grab some nuts, washers and pump parts before it gets into the new pump.
Drill 1/4 holes thru your little dies and use dog point screws. You'll know where to drill the holes from the set screw marks. Or what ever the minor diameter is of the set screws you're using to clamp with now. I thought I remembered you used 5/16 set screws. So the dog point will go thru the holes, keeping the dies from moving.
Like i said before if your fan isnt mounted in the shroud right it wont flow cooling air right and cause a over heat problem at certain speeds did you check it? It looks to be to far into the rad .Set the fan like your pickup
Is the LS motor a reverse flow cooling like the LT1 motor? You absolutely MUST get all air bled out of the system. at high points. I'm just now working on a '95 Camaro with the LT1 motor and it has two bleed ports, one on the top of the thermostat housing.
Do you suppose that the temp sensor should be further away from the steam port? Maybe the steam port is active and it's introducing higher temps when under load.
Are you sure you’re not still overheating, or did you just move the temp sender to a cooler part of the system? That radiator hose is after the thermostat, so the engine is going to see that heat before the water makes it down that hose.
I don't advocate welding on galvanized anything, (grind the zinc off) but when I need a bead on a pipe/tube ,I weld a bead all around the tube. May not look so nice, but ti's covered anyway
I wonder if the steam port was aerating he coolant and causing bubbles to stick on the temp sensor. Since you made it sound like it only really happened going up hills, maybe the sensor was above the normally highest part of the system or someething weird likee that (not sure I'm explaining it correctly, but you probably get the idea) and it could have ebeen cooling fine he whole time, just the gauge read hot?
My 2 cents, I'm in the process of 62 nova ls swap, and the radiator needs to be a ls style. Something about the flow direction, as well as steam port hook-up.
Hi karl did the engine and box come out of truck the same size if not drain of some transmitsion put jd high gard it will tighten it up let us no how you get on
Hey i always tee into a heater hose . I have swapped multiple vehicles that have old style radiators. Has worked perfectly fine for me. Also when you refill the water system. Pour half radiator full. Then take top radiator hose off pour your antifreeze mix in hose to fill engine until it wont hold anymore then shove it on the radiator and fill the rest of radiator with antifreeze. Sooo many people just fill rad and it will airlock everytime. Gta fill top hose until it wont hold no more
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello Karl, love your channel
My name is Rob Smit and I have a small fabrication shop in the Central Tablelands in NSW Australia
I have built a lot of cooling systems over the years and and if you are interested here is my observation of your new truck system. When you put a larger core radiator on that is 3,4 or five core radiator you new the horsepower behind an engine driven fan. Electric fans up against the core or on a shroud sealed to the radiator core if used on a thick core cannot achieve their top speed as they do not have the kilowatts/horsepower to get to their rated rpm. An engine driven fan will use typically around 20 horsepower at high rpm.
For the electric fans to work use a single or two core radiator. Check for yourself if you pull the fans just back a little they move heaps of air..
Attach the fans to a single or twin core they still will move heaps of air but put it behind a five core and the air moved is dramatically reduced.
Hope my 10 cents helps a little.
Again I love your channel you are living my dream thankyou for the fabulous content I love it
Regards Rob Smit
Man I kind of do what you do for a living, 10 hours a day but I never get tired of watching your videos…..I learn a lot of things that makes me a better artisan and I can pass that along to my younger guys and help them to be better……thanks for all you do my friend
Hey by the way, grind that mushroom head off of your glorified gasket scraper that’s killing my OCD lol
The mushroom head comes off naturally and takes out one of your eyes. No grinding required. Lol
I built a tubing bead tool years ago that I've used on tubing all the way up to 4" turbo pipes. It's three pieces of curved 1/4" round bar welded to vice grips. Make a line on the pipe to follow, adjust the vice grips for depth & crimp on. It also works as a brake hose crimp tool when doing brakes. ps.. I see a lot of gaps around that radiator installation that will allow the hot air to go back around for another pass through the core. A simple four sided diffuser duct from the front of the radiator to the front of the cab will ensure only ambient air will go through the core. When the air temp going through the core is the same as core temp you have no heat exchange!
As someone who doesn't have the money or space for CNC anything or the patience to learn CAD software I greatly appreciate it when you focus on the scab it together, trim it to fit approach.
The steam line should always be connected to the highest point of the radiator tank to allow for air during filling and steam during operation to purge from system. Sounds like you were fighting a partial air lock in the heads since they were higher. Always a good idea to replace the water pump as you did. Cheap insurance. Glad you're making progress. Love the channel!
Home built by Jeff was having cooling issues. He finally solved it by baffling the radiator header tanks to force the coolant to travel farther through the radiator. Instead of going directly from one tank straight across to the other, the coolant passed back and forth. More dwell time in the rad gives the coolant more time to shed heat and it solved the issue.
That is why when I take the thermostat out I put the restriction plate back in, ( cut the centre out ) ,glad it got sorted, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Came across the same problems with missing beads in my cooling pipes. Made a die in my lathe and used my lathe as a beadroller. Love those workshop stories. There are so many solutions to the same problem,, if you use your hands and brains, with the material you have.
Spot on mate. Always a pleasure to watch your journey 💪
Being more of a butcher than you guys I wrap a piece of wire around the tube and then flow a little solder onto it. Nobody can see it and it works fine 😊
@avid6186 it's not stupid if it works. As I said - love the totally different approaches...
Really appreciate how you and Elio approach problem solving and fabrication...your enthusiasm is infectious and highly entertaining! Go Japhands and Elio, keep moving forward!
I love the excitement "I built a thing I needed!", then the immediate realization that "I could've just bought it"! hahah!
I do the same thing. My justification is that it wasn't time wasted, it was time enjoyed.
Glad you were able to fix up the cooling issue! It would be really cool to see it in person some day (south of your border). Keep up the awesome work guys!
You could keep the engine operating in the power band by down shifting the transmission. If you have a 5 speed drop into 3rd gear going up and down steep hills at less than 40kmh. It should help with engine cooling and save your brakes going down hill. Brakes should be used moderately on down grades and then released and allow the speed to increase slightly before repeating. If applied continously on long down grades they WILL fade out and you will be wishing for a runaway escape lane to be nearby. I'm a retired CDL Driver with 28 years experience. I hope this is helpful. I enjoy your videos and I await the next one.
Evening sir, as an old pipe fitter/maintenance guy, for smaller NPT threads try a product called SWAK by Swagelok. Anaerobic pipe thread sealant. Very effective, but not dirt cheap. Excellent for stainless fittings
I used to go through tubes of SWAK every week - great stuff . Loctite PST 565 is pretty much the same thing, cheaper and available everywhere. Whatever you find you never have to worry about winding it on the right way or have bits of teflon floating through the system. ❤
That is a great Idea! Thanks for the LS info also.
I’m happy if I WAKE UP in the morning with NO dirt in my face!
There is a plug in the rear of the opposite head you can use for a secondary coolant temp port, or use the factory LS temp sensor output from the ECU to a gauge with the right resistance. I have seen trouble with a top mounted coolant temp sensor when air is present in the system and the gauge fluctuates as you are describing under a load. One other subscriber mentioned vacuuming down the cooling system (air-lift) that is definitely recommended if you have the ability/tool. You are also on the right Track by moving the steam pipe back to the highest point in the system.
Lucas Oil products are the best. I have no idea if it works, but it always makes me feel better when I use it.
Had a cooling issue with my 78 courier that drove me nuts for a couple weeks. came to find the impeller was free wheeling on the shaft like a de-clutching engine fan. 🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
Congrats on the cooling system Karl. Thanks for sharing! 💯👊👍
Love seeing you make tools! I would've probably just laid a bead of weld around the circumfrance at the ends of the pipe to stop the hose from walking. Your way is much more professional.
I’ve done the weld bead several times and the hoses never popped off. Takes 30 seconds. However if I had a shop loaded with cool equipment like Carl , I’d make a tool as well
Or weld a ring to keep the hose on
It was both, that gurgling sound is a water pump bearing going out. Also LS engines have air pocket issues that steam ports help with. Nice work
If you find it's still overheating when you are loading it down I'd be checking to see if you have a head gasket issue. I haven't seen all the vids on this but I'd be getting the over flow bottle sniffed. If you don't have a buddy shop with one I'll help you. I'm in south van so not a huge drive. On the house. Love your style.
Make sure you have the right mix coolant, 100% AF will not cool efficiently, it needs water for proper heat transfer.
The suggestion to vacuum fill it is also valid. I believe they have cheap ones at Princess Auto.
What I want to know is who ever has used 100% AF. Goodness sakes, I'm from Minnesota and we don't even go beyond 60% absolute max.
cavitation is wild. Super heated imploding bubbles.
crazy hot.... I've had to put a different pulley on my water pump, because it now revs to 8,000rpm.
cavitation was badly eating my aluminum thermostat housing after just 1200km.
love your channel
I have a 460 in a box truck that kept overheating in a similar manner. I tried everything I could think of, threw all the usual parts at it. No change. Bought one of those no spill radiator filler funnels that mount up on where the radiator cap goes and having the coolant level up at that higher position while running it up to temp burped out an air pocket from somewhere inside the engine that was trapped and it stays dead cool no matter what now.
@@javman03 Vortecs and SBCs and V6s from early-mid 90s also benefit from this. Ordinarily, they fill & purge from overflow bottle mounted as highest tank... But it can be a sign of a cracked head or gasket if system stops drawing coolant back into radiator as it cools ( a "vacuum leak" somewhere in cooling system. External leak should obvious, but not always... Heater core, etc)
have you made sure your existing radiator isn't partially blocked? larger core may be the best solution if all else is functioning as intended. you could also test the flow rate also with a couple large buckets of water
I saw someone do tube beading on a legit pullmax recently. I also built a Karlmax bead profiler recently. I was planning to build some pipe dies, basically the same way you did here. You beat me to it!
Love your ingenious idea with your airgun tool!
Cavitation is actually air bubbles exploding, that was the sound of rocks you heard. The other thing is putting the temp sending unit and steam hose is the same area is a bad idea. Steam port could actually be heating the sender and giving a false reading. I suspect the temp is lower than what your gauge is showing. Is your trans cooler part of the radiator? If there is air in that part of the hose, that will give a false reading too.
That’s so crazy! I didn’t realize it could sound like thay
Fucking love this community. ⬆️
Something I have run into in the past when doing engine swaps, especially when changing accessories. Make sure your water pump and alternator are running the correct direction. If belt routing changes it could cause a water pump to run backwards.
That’s a bad spot for the temp sensor, a mechanical gauge in the head would be a good way to prove if it’s actually overheating. Good call moving the steam port too, it should always go to the highest point. Be damn sure there’s no air trapped in the system somewhere, LS were kinda known for that, I think they normally vacuum fill them 👍
You have a thermal expansion problem under load on race car we would always have a expansion tank higher than the thermostat height also we would make a swirl pot .The water comming out of the engine goes through the swirl pot into the top radiator hose on top off the pot a hose runs into the high mounted expansion tank. Google swirl pots and it will give you ideas to fix your problem. I've always put swirl pots on all race and rally cars I've built. Hope information helps.
Carl love the channel. The other thing that adds heat to radiator is the cooler being to close to radiator we place our trans cooler away from the radiator and also add a small fan on cooler when we thi k its heating up on hills climbing. It help has big time.
Nice work on the cooling system fix. May be picky but I'd have shortened the upper rad hose where it attaches the rad. Just to move the electrical sensor away from the metal framing a bit more. Look forward to seeing more. Be safe and stay well.
Don't know if i'd want to run temp guage right where you're introducing hot air. Apart from that, love your vids mate, learning so much from you!
Hey Karl great videos, I made 1 1/8 x 1/4 thick aluminum disc with a radius on the outer edge. I bolt it to the upper shaft on my bead roller, then position the 3/8" female lower bead die centered on the aluminum radius then you can put the bead on your thin pipe real easy.
The tube bead will work! 10 min in! I have faith in you guys!
I would have off set the hole for the temp sensor so it wasn't directly across from the steam port. that might give you false temp readings.
I thought they were too close as well
Good progress. Glad it's not overheating now. I still think you need holes in the bed for heat to escape better.
Sounds like a good idea
The Florida pool pump motor repair guy 32750 approved ! that was good info & see = MiK
Mimic the factory cooling system. install the tank and all the water pump hoses the same way the factory did and it will cool properly.
As usual awesome job, I agree with your brother that you have a water problem not an air supply problem. I think you are going find that you have to have a tank off the Radiator to allow for the expansion of the system when the engine is at temperature. The exact reason coolant tanks have min/max levels that must be maintained.
Thanks for the great content, as usual.
💚🇬🇧🌱 love the hammer hammer upgrade, worked great🫶
ідеальна робота! ideal work! :)
A welder can fix anything, from the crack of dawn and to a broken heart.
VCMC! Love them!
That's the sound of the water pump . These the classic disruption
Thanks for another great video
There is an Old Jeep trick for keeping the Temp Down. Use something like an old Windshield Washer system, when it starts getting hot, Spray water in front of the radiator.
I was about to suggest the same. Racing airplanes have been using "spray bars" since the '60s.
That does work except....if your in dusty environments nope! An actual example in my line of current work, customer has a grasshopper 725D and when his unit was getting hot he would stop and spray water on the radiator fins to cool it down and well long story short, it plugged the fins with dirt dust particles and burned up the engine. There's a place for every trick keep that in mind.
Red E Volkswagen shop in SLC makes a water sprayer to blast into the fan on an air cooled VW. Great for those hot days when you’re pulling a hill in a loaded down VW bus.
That’s a killer idea as a back up lol
@@MakeItKustom Both of my older brothers had Grand Cherokees. And did a lot of off roading in the Rocky Mountains. They claimed it was the best way to keep the temp down while rock crawling.
You may need a better/larger transmission cooler. The trans can put a lot of heat into the engine. Just a thought.
Yes with that big of body and a car motor i would run a big external trans cooler
Kudos - the bead is venerable.
Ha!
Pipe dope is all I use.
14:51 I was gonna say that I assume ya’ll know the LS motors use a reverse rotation water pump? Make sure you got the right one and the belts are routed to rotate it the right direction.
Great video im having the same problem with my big block street car it has a pair of electric fans and dont cool so im going to get some fans that pull more cfm.
If thats a one wire sensor I’m surprised the temp gauge is working considering the outer threaded part needs to be grounded (usually in the engine block), I usually ground the pipe if it’s been fitted in a rubber hose like you have it fitted, with no grounding to thread.
Hey Karl
The heat might be coming from the oil in the transmission just a thought love you work
15:15 Do you have a dedicated LS Radiator? They have ports in the tanks on them for that very reason. I'm just throwing this out there. I don't remember if you used an LS radiator when dropping the engine in the frame on this build.
Congrats Carl, from the bootheel of Missouri, Nice shop. !!
I love your and Brent's channels,
Always hoping to find some one redoing a 1954 Chevy 2dr hardtop loaded with all the chrome, beautiful car when new I loved the look.
Jack
I’ve seen on other RUclips channels where they modified an old set of vice grips to create a bead on tubing for turbo motors to keep the silicone hoses from blowing off under boost. It would probably be a total pain on that galvanized pipe. Besides modifying the hammer jammer is much better content. Well at least the cooling issue seems to be solved with a new water pump and that doohickey. Hopefully the Lucas mystery goop solves your transmission issue. 🍻
Yes you could have probably stuck the tube in the lower end to keep the hose from collapsing I believe the suction and heated water didn't allow good flow but your probably better than before by far with that job well done. Very interesting
Grin when you're winning!!
Great job guys.
It would be awesome to see you team up with troy from cjrc and do some bead rolls and other sheet metal work
When grinder hit floor, i was about to comment exactly what you said. Those who know have been there. Some of us got lucky and didnt get hit with shrapnel.
Did you ever pull starter to make sure bendix gear still has a spring return? Its a common LS issue.
Gauge sender needs a ground so need to weld a tab to the pipe also.
Do you two always get along? Appears like a great brotherly relationship.
Who? Elio and Carl? I always thought they were best friends. Carl we need clarification.
@@Yagba09 I thought Elio was an employee
You’re both right. Best friends that work together
Do you have a cab heater core connected to the cooling system? If not you need to loop the heater connections at the water pump. If you are using the heater core the shutoff valve should have a bypass back to the water pump when closed and just not block the flow.
Some times you just have let off a little STEAM. Way to go Elio!
Have you tested the radiator cap for pressure? If it is weak it will allow the engine to over heat when under load. Also if the thermostat is not closing the coolant passes through the radiator to fast to cool. Does your engine have an air bleed in the cooling system?
Enjoy your videos keep up good content.
Cool!
I was involved in a 500 Cadillac swap into a c10 . It's over heating was caused by airflow restrictions after the radiator, In our case, trimming the fan shroud allowed better airflow around the front of the engine . Or maybe airflow can't leave the engine bay . It's probably going to have several solutions
As a thought, to make sure there is not trapped air in the cooling system, put a bleeder valve in the back of the block at a high point. Open, run motor, water come out, close valve.....worth a try...
Just a thought about the position of the temperature sender in relation to the thermostat, if the thermostat does not open the temperature sensor will not detect the engine overheating,
Need to vacuum the cooling system when filling on LS based engines. Ive ran into the same problem after LS swapped cars. check it out. it works
Uhh I commented too early... and fix the steam pipe BS. Theres your problem...
bead maker try Chain links for different size pipe on a piece of flat stock in stead of half pipe or even bar/rod stock. just a thought.
I knew someone who changed the idler then the alternator and finally the water pump and the rattle was still there then one day the front pully stopped turning, the rattle was the crank had cracked in the front journal but as the crack was at an angle it took some time for front pully to move forward just enough to disengage from the rest of the crank, came across another case where the owner complained of a rattle and it was the front crank webb that had broken in two but the engine still kept running. I am surprised the temperature gauge works at all as I did not see an earth on the sender where you installed it.
Just a quick thought with the cooling system issue. You guys haven't changed or added to the accesory locations so that belt rotation has chainged on the waterpump?
Cavitation can sound marbles banging around
I just did same steam Port setup on my Chevelle Buddy has a couple cars with water pump Port
But top of rad isn't as far above engine in his car as your set up
Where’s the ground for the sender?… also you shouldn’t use Teflon tape for senders as that can act as an insulator and give a bad ground.
exactly what I was thinking. Temp sensor mounted in a rubber hose - you need to ground the outer shell of the sensor.
I did off camera
LS engines historically had some weird cooling concerns. My 2004 5.3 sucked most of the "orange coolant" through the combustion chambers and out the exhaust., That was at 102K miles. I added a couple of bottles of BARRS LOCK block sealant to the radiator and used water then crossed my fingers. The BARRS LOCK successfully sealed the block and I have driven it an additional 160K miles. I will admit that the vehicle has had two water pumps and one radiator replacement. The steam port will pressurize the flow of water in the pump. During the water pump replacement and the radiator replacements coolant and corrosion trash was found which I suspect contributed to our coolant woes. GOOD LUCK on your journey.
I cannot recommend this. If coolant is going through the combustion chambers, your head gasket is likely bad. Any sort of “sealant” added to the cooling system can close off coolant passages, likely why you had to put a radiator in it. It’s an LS, a new head gasket takes a few hours to install. You’ve been lucky getting that many miles out of it like that. Often times I’ve seen sealants like that completely seal shut the coolant passages either at the head or at the block, where the head gasket is, causing more issues than it solves
Dexcool dissolves gaskets. It's a common issue.
Drill a hole in the inner die and weld in a steel ball sticking up. Take the pump more appart. push a flex magnet into the block and grab some nuts, washers and pump parts before it gets into the new pump.
You all did great. Pat yourself on the back
For purposes of diagnosis; a stethoscope with a long probe is useful to locate the bearing which is creating the nasty noise.
COOL truck.......Now!
On this episode of Make It Kustom, Carl drops pretty much everything 😂
😂
Hahhahaha yup
I use the bead roller I copied from you (thank you) to make coolant tubes.
Drill 1/4 holes thru your little dies and use dog point screws. You'll know where to drill the holes from the set screw marks. Or what ever the minor diameter is of the set screws you're using to clamp with now. I thought I remembered you used 5/16 set screws. So the dog point will go thru the holes, keeping the dies from moving.
Do you know if it's not leaning out the fuel on the hills? Air fuel ratios? That will increase temps
Like i said before if your fan isnt mounted in the shroud right it wont flow cooling air right and cause a over heat problem at certain speeds did you check it? It looks to be to far into the rad .Set the fan like your pickup
Is the LS motor a reverse flow cooling like the LT1 motor? You absolutely MUST get all air bled out of the system. at high points. I'm just now working on a '95 Camaro with the LT1 motor and it has two bleed ports, one on the top of the thermostat housing.
Do you suppose that the temp sensor should be further away from the steam port? Maybe the steam port is active and it's introducing higher temps when under load.
Perhaps but it works perfect I think. Maybe it’s reading hotter than it should? Idk if stealmis constantly coming from there
Are you sure you’re not still overheating, or did you just move the temp sender to a cooler part of the system? That radiator hose is after the thermostat, so the engine is going to see that heat before the water makes it down that hose.
And the adventure continues 😎
I don't advocate welding on galvanized anything, (grind the zinc off) but when I need a bead on a pipe/tube ,I weld a bead all around the tube. May not look so nice, but ti's covered anyway
I wonder if the steam port was aerating he coolant and causing bubbles to stick on the temp sensor. Since you made it sound like it only really happened going up hills, maybe the sensor was above the normally highest part of the system or someething weird likee that (not sure I'm explaining it correctly, but you probably get the idea) and it could have ebeen cooling fine he whole time, just the gauge read hot?
Does the temp sender need to be electrically groundet to work correctly?
The adapter you made is not connected to engine/frame ground, or is it?
Would an undersized bottom die and oversized top die be easier on your bead roller machine?
My 2 cents, I'm in the process of 62 nova ls swap, and the radiator needs to be a ls style. Something about the flow direction, as well as steam port hook-up.
Hi karl did the engine and box come out of truck the same size if not drain of some transmitsion put jd high gard it will tighten it up let us no how you get on
Hey i always tee into a heater hose . I have swapped multiple vehicles that have old style radiators. Has worked perfectly fine for me. Also when you refill the water system. Pour half radiator full. Then take top radiator hose off pour your antifreeze mix in hose to fill engine until it wont hold anymore then shove it on the radiator and fill the rest of radiator with antifreeze. Sooo many people just fill rad and it will airlock everytime. Gta fill top hose until it wont hold no more