Thanks for mentioning my Timmy the Toolman channel in the video description. Lot of RUclipsrs use other people's content and never give them any credit. I have a lot of respect for people like you who give credit where credit is due. Good luck with your channel.
Hey man, well it means a heck of a lot to me for you to take the time to comment and say that. I appreciate that a ton. You have always had such great content on your channel much of which I've used for my own assistance in the garage. Always want to send people your way! Thanks again man and take it easy. I appreciate your kind words.
Haha, the loose dremel wheel had me cracking up. Great tips that I learned not too long ago. Looking forward to the often overlooked extended links and panhard correction coming soon.
I just replaced the fronts with the OEM '01 end links. They work fine. You don't really need extra length there if you aren't doing some extreme 4 wheelin'.
So after your lift, tires and wheels setup what is your mpg around at. Not too concerned about saving mpg but was just curious because i plan on doing the same 33 tires.
Def. something to take into account!! When I first lifted it I had E rated 285/75-16s on there and I got around 13.2 at best. Once I swapped to the SL rated 285/70-17s I'm back up to between 14.7 and 15.5. Before I ever did anything to it I was getting around 18 so I'm okay with it. Worth it!
Some of the issues will def. still show up but obviously the higher you go the worse it is. 2" should be minimal issues but just keep in mind after settling I'm prob. only at 2.5" of lift in the front.
@thechapmx I put a metaltech 4x4 conversion on the rear of my GX470. Gave me about .75 - 1" lift. I have these issues you laid out in the video. Wish I just put on a 2" lift. Now I don't know what to do because every remedy is made for 2"+ lifts
You may not see this but I’ve done the sway bar links and an adjustable pan hard bar. It still squeaks thuds and clunks, when I go over bumps at speed it feels like my diff wants to go to one side even though it’s equal on both sides. Anything else I should try?
Its hard to pinpoint, but I would start looking at your rear control arm bushings, those play a large role in stabilizing the rear end to the rest of the vehicle. Not but so many things it can be back there!
@@TheChapMX I’ve re-torqued everything to spec which seemed to help a bit and the vertical movement in the rear end. Side to side movement is still super squeaky, I’m thinking replacing my sway bar bushings to performance bushings. Hopefully that will help, I sound like an old and stiff trailer lol.
@@KolbyJacked I do know how that feels and sounds, haha. That may help for sure. I would think about replacing the control arm bushings myself but nothing wrong at all with improving the sway bar bushings first. Can only help. You could also just disconnect the sway bar and carefully go down the driveway or something and see if that makes it go away.
I did not regear. It would be nice but it’s not required. It’s slow but it was slow in the first place, haha. I can tell you 285/75-16s will fit with absolutely no rubbing on 16x8s with 0 and -12mm offset. You can also go with a 16x8 -25mm or 17x9 -38mm with slight rubbing and you need to do some trimming. Hope that helps.
I have another question for you. I have a 97 4runner with the chrome metal bumper (non big lip style) I went the least expensive way to put a mild lift on mine. Did the Bilsteins 5100 all around with rear OME 2906 springs kept my original springs in the front and made shock adjustment to half notch. Will 33s fit? I'm digging the look on your runner. Maybe different wheel from same company a non bead lock style blaze 10 I think
@@damacknificent151 You've got the better looking bumper, that's for sure!! I don't want to say yes because I don't have direct experience with this setup but what I can do is measure my center hub to the top of the fender gap and see how that compares to your's. As long as that is close I think you would be fine. We will see. As far as wheels man those Blaze 10s are so sweet!!! I would really recommend a 16x8 -12mm if possible. Any more offset and you will have a good amount of rubbing. I'll report back with that measurement.
@@TheChapMX thanks man, I appreciate that. Let me know those measurements. As far as the 16x8 -12 offset will I be able to tuck the rear wheels when flex articulation happens? Hope both front and rear have same measurements from bottom of fender and center hub.
Mine just leans driver side I have ome 881 coils and 5100s on the stock setting. Honestly wanna give up it’s a money pit and it doesn’t seem to get anywhere
The rear adjustable control arms from opt off road where a game changer for me definitely made the rear end on mine handle 100 times better and I don’t even have the pan hard correction kit yet
Thanks for mentioning my Timmy the Toolman channel in the video description. Lot of RUclipsrs use other people's content and never give them any credit. I have a lot of respect for people like you who give credit where credit is due. Good luck with your channel.
Hey man, well it means a heck of a lot to me for you to take the time to comment and say that. I appreciate that a ton. You have always had such great content on your channel much of which I've used for my own assistance in the garage. Always want to send people your way! Thanks again man and take it easy. I appreciate your kind words.
Haha, the loose dremel wheel had me cracking up. Great tips that I learned not too long ago. Looking forward to the often overlooked extended links and panhard correction coming soon.
Hahahah wondered if anyone might catch that. I was graspin at straws to get it done haha. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
Been looking for this info for a long time! Thanks
So glad it helped! It’s my pleasure and I greatly thank you for taking the time to comment and let me know
What spacers are you running?
@@robertogomez4168 no spacers man. Wheels are 16x8 -12mm offset.
Thanks man! I'm working on my build now and all these tips are helpful!😊
So glad the video helped!! Good luck on your's and hope it turns out how you want it to!
you must lift entire factory 4 link chassis.so that lateral link is absolutely level. stock parts. the point they attatch ca be relocated.
Great info!
I really appreciate your comment a lot and I’m glad you got something out of it !
what sway bar end links did you use for the front? also I'm having the same noise in the rear with my toytech lift
I just replaced the fronts with the OEM '01 end links. They work fine. You don't really need extra length there if you aren't doing some extreme 4 wheelin'.
So after your lift, tires and wheels setup what is your mpg around at. Not too concerned about saving mpg but was just curious because i plan on doing the same 33 tires.
Def. something to take into account!! When I first lifted it I had E rated 285/75-16s on there and I got around 13.2 at best. Once I swapped to the SL rated 285/70-17s I'm back up to between 14.7 and 15.5. Before I ever did anything to it I was getting around 18 so I'm okay with it. Worth it!
Do these problems happen even with a small lift like 2 inches
I just did a 2inch lift and they indeed happened so try to always check your alignment and everything mentioned in this video.
Some of the issues will def. still show up but obviously the higher you go the worse it is. 2" should be minimal issues but just keep in mind after settling I'm prob. only at 2.5" of lift in the front.
@thechapmx I put a metaltech 4x4 conversion on the rear of my GX470. Gave me about .75 - 1" lift. I have these issues you laid out in the video. Wish I just put on a 2" lift. Now I don't know what to do because every remedy is made for 2"+ lifts
You may not see this but I’ve done the sway bar links and an adjustable pan hard bar. It still squeaks thuds and clunks, when I go over bumps at speed it feels like my diff wants to go to one side even though it’s equal on both sides. Anything else I should try?
Its hard to pinpoint, but I would start looking at your rear control arm bushings, those play a large role in stabilizing the rear end to the rest of the vehicle. Not but so many things it can be back there!
@@TheChapMX I’ve re-torqued everything to spec which seemed to help a bit and the vertical movement in the rear end. Side to side movement is still super squeaky, I’m thinking replacing my sway bar bushings to performance bushings. Hopefully that will help, I sound like an old and stiff trailer lol.
@@KolbyJacked I do know how that feels and sounds, haha. That may help for sure. I would think about replacing the control arm bushings myself but nothing wrong at all with improving the sway bar bushings first. Can only help. You could also just disconnect the sway bar and carefully go down the driveway or something and see if that makes it go away.
Did you re-gear for 33" tires? Do you have spec for wheels and tire fit?
I did not regear. It would be nice but it’s not required. It’s slow but it was slow in the first place, haha. I can tell you 285/75-16s will fit with absolutely no rubbing on 16x8s with 0 and -12mm offset. You can also go with a 16x8 -25mm or 17x9 -38mm with slight rubbing and you need to do some trimming. Hope that helps.
@@TheChapMX thanks
I have another question for you. I have a 97 4runner with the chrome metal bumper (non big lip style) I went the least expensive way to put a mild lift on mine. Did the Bilsteins 5100 all around with rear OME 2906 springs kept my original springs in the front and made shock adjustment to half notch. Will 33s fit? I'm digging the look on your runner. Maybe different wheel from same company a non bead lock style blaze 10 I think
@@damacknificent151 You've got the better looking bumper, that's for sure!! I don't want to say yes because I don't have direct experience with this setup but what I can do is measure my center hub to the top of the fender gap and see how that compares to your's. As long as that is close I think you would be fine. We will see. As far as wheels man those Blaze 10s are so sweet!!! I would really recommend a 16x8 -12mm if possible. Any more offset and you will have a good amount of rubbing. I'll report back with that measurement.
@@TheChapMX thanks man, I appreciate that. Let me know those measurements. As far as the 16x8 -12 offset will I be able to tuck the rear wheels when flex articulation happens? Hope both front and rear have same measurements from bottom of fender and center hub.
Mine just leans driver side I have ome 881 coils and 5100s on the stock setting. Honestly wanna give up it’s a money pit and it doesn’t seem to get anywhere
I do know exactly how you feel, it can be a never ending battle. I know a lot of them have that drivers side lean, unfortunately.
👍👍👍
Thank you!!
Guess I need a 4Runner now…. 🫣
Haha well at least you will have some references if you do!
The rear adjustable control arms from opt off road where a game changer for me definitely made the rear end on mine handle 100 times better and I don’t even have the pan hard correction kit yet