PCK (Panhard Correction Kit) Install (3RD GEN 4Runner)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2018
- Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
In this video, we introduce you to a custom Panhard Correction Kit that will improve your panhard bar angle on your lifted 3rd Gen 4runner and give you more stability while driving down the road or 4wheeling.
**The welding was done at "One Off Customs" in Morgan Hill, CA
www.oneoffcustoms.com/
Wes prefers taking on big projects but he does entertain smaller jobs like this when he has the time. If you're in the California Bay Area and need some welding, custom fabrication or a big project like a complete vehicle restoration or custom build, give Wes a call. (408) 802-3299
*Torque Specs*
Panhard Bar Bolts - 64 ft-lbf
*Ways to contact Keith and order these brackets:*
T4R.org: Keith's screen name is Eimkeith
www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-su...
Website: eimkeith.com/
Facebook: / pck-by-eimkeith-198311...
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases. 
Авто/Мото
*Update 01/25/22*
In the video, I talk about the need to use washers as spacers if you're using the bottom hole on the bracket. I just found out that Eimkeith also recommends using washers for the middle hole as well. With the way the PCK bracket welds to the frame, the lower part of the frame bracket get in the way of fitting in washers for that middle hole. If you know you're going to utilize that middle hole, I recommend grinding away some of the lower part of that frame bracket so it doesn't hinder you installing washers for that middle hole.
Hey there! a client just made me aware that some folks are having a bit of an issue with using the spacers on the middle hole - so I thought I'd pop in and talk about that. First, there are links to forum threads discussing the installation of my products on every order page on my site; however, I realize that that's not much help if you've bought from one of my resellers (honestly didn't occur to me, but I can definitely see where that may cause some frustration!)
The frame side mount is a slide-over fit (as opposed to the axle side, which is a butt-fit) for 2 reasons; one, so that it can force a true vertical hole alignment and consistent vertical hole spacing, and two; because the bottom edge of the factory mount is inconsistent across the different production years. Because of these factory inconsistencies, some of you guys will have a sliver of the factory mount blocking the bolt on the middle hole, but some won't. And some will have more than a sliver. That interfering material can easily be cleared with a drill bit to allow the bolt to slide through once the bracket is installed, but then the spacers won't work without modification as the bottom edge of the factory mount keeps them from sliding into position. So, to use the middle hole, just clamp the spacers in a bench vise and grind off 30-40% until the flat edge that you've created butts up against the bottom edge of the factory mount with the hole in the correct position to allow the bolt to slide through. Does that make sense the way I articulated it? (I might've over-complicated it)
Also, the factory hole should still be usable after installation - that's by design. If, for some reason, it doesn't (a client this weekend had his factory mount close up a bit on him during installation) - I recommend spreading it back open to the correct ID to allow the panhard to slide back in properly (you can use a threaded rod/bolt and a couple of nuts to do this.) That way, you have the ability to adjust/tune using all 5 holes for whatever load level changes you may have in the future.
Hope that helps anyone who might be wondering! You can also always hit me with any questions via my website, or the eimkeith Installers group on FB (or IG, or shoot me a text, or whatever is most convenient for you.)
Thx!
-of course, it you want to super-sexy, then Tim's suggestion of cutting a semi-circle out of the factory mount to clear the spacer before installing is a great option.!
@@eimkeith Thanks Keith for providing this information. I'm sure it will help some people who bother to read this pinned comment.
Man. You always have the best 4runner info. You have saved me so much heart ache and time.
Great to hear you're finding the information we share helpful. Thanks for the comment.
Took advantage of Black Friday sales and purchased this for my 3rd gen. Can’t wait to install it!
Thanks for all the informative videos on the 3rd gen 4Runners!
Good job Josh. Good luck with welding it in. This is a good mod to do for sure.
Happy I saw this this im new to the idea of having my 2001 toyota 4runner lifted had no idea the pan hard bar was a thing I would need to compensate for. Thanks for the heads up! 👍👍👍
You're welcome.
Never stop making videos Timmy/Sean...never. Hope to meet you guys one day and talk about sicc mods. PCK ordered.
We're going to be making them for quite some time. You definitely should make it to one of our parties. We didn't have a party last year due to the Covid BS but we're going to have a party this Summer hopefully.
I do not have a lifted 3rd Gen but i like how you are improving yours. Do not forget about your 2002 T4R!!!
I have a 2000. Sean has a 2002. Glad you like the mods I'm doing to my 98. And, more to come. Stay Tuned!
Biggest of the biggest fan right here lol!
Just received mine today! Having them installed next week with new Panhard polyurethane bushings.
Good choice Chase. You will notice a difference.
Hi Chase, did you notice a significant difference after you installed the brackets?
can you link to those polyurethane bushings?
This was one of the best mods I have ever installed.
Your comment will bring a smile to Keith's face. Thank for taking the time to comment.
@@TimmyTheToolman It certainly did! Thanks Chase! - and thank you Tim for the video!
@@eimkeith Our pleasure Keith!
I think this is exactly what I need.
It will help for sure.
I have this correction kit on my rig as well. Centered the axle and brought the panhard back to level. Worth every penny. Thanks for the video Tim. Keep up the sick mods. Winch install soon?
Hey Andrew, thanks for the comment. Yes, a winch install will be coming fairly soon. We have a bunch more videos coming out before that but it is one of the next thing I want to get installed on my rig. I do want to get a secondary fuse panel installed in my engine bay first so I can power the winch and future accessory lighting.
Timmy The Toolman sounds great. Also a video I would love to see as I have my blue sea fuse block and components sitting in the garage waiting for install. The parts seem to pile up sometimes.
Cool . .. 👍👌
Hmm...a good welder. What if my friends old man has the ultimate set of tools??
Ha ha..another nice vid Tim!!
If you're old man is a TV repair man with an ultimate set of tools, that's ok. Let him weld them on.
As a guy from NJ I had to change my shorts after seeing your undercarriage. Holy clean.
Yeah Brian, we do have it pretty good in California when it comes to rust. But, it's not all rainbows and butterflies here. The cost of living is crazy and the state is run by looney tunes. Free healthcare for illegal immigrants. Now that's a smart plan.
hello Timmy! so i had the pck installed and i noticed that my drivers rear wheel sticks out a little more on the top maybe camber part than the passenger side, i did the same measurements in this video and noticed it's about quarter inch off could it be that i need an adjustable bar? thanks
Time to order mine and get it welded
If you order from optoffroad.com don’t forget to use our promo code “Sicmods” for a discount
😉Hi guys. Very interesting video. Sickmoods🤪👍
Yes, Sick Mods indeed!
Angles are cool 😎
Nooooooooo! Flat is cool!
😂 when are the 4th gen mods going to come??!! Was that your 4Runner in the garage if so you should do a in depth review/walk around!!
There isn't anyone we know currently with a 4th Gen that's looking for help with mods but I'm sure we'll work on one at some point.
A lot of the recent videos we've done have been all about my 98 rig. But, maybe when I'm done pouring time and money into it I'll do an in-depth review of what I've done.
Was wondering if yall would ever get these done. Doing my second set on my locked axle soon.
Sean and I are both running them now.
Yes, you have a 2000. I will stay tuned but hey new kid on the block do not forget about your 2000!! its similar to my 2002 SR5. I hope you understand me. English is not my first language!
I understand you just fine. I would have never known English wasn't your 1st language.
Sorry, I didn't your answer. Thank you so much. i'm glad you can understand me !!!
Yeah, I can understand you just fine.
Hi I’m your biggest fan :) XDXD Rawr
I’m planing a 2” lift, will this be necessary or does this only pertain to 2.5” lifts and higher? Thanks for all of your awesome vids! Keep em coming!
My 2000 has a 2 inch lift in the rear and I wasn't planning on adding the correction brackets to it because my rig seems to be handling just fine. But, people with a mild lift have installed just the driver side axle lift bracket to level out the panhard bar and have reported an improvement in handling. I have a 4.5" lift on the rear of my 98 and the handling on the road was a little squirrely, so that's why I decided to install the brackets. So, maybe I will buy just the axle side bracket from Keith to improve the handling of my 2000 as well.
Hey Tim, Glad to see you got a 1.2 lift! When is the video coming out :) thanks!
No video for the Sonoran Steel lift. I was planning on doing it but wanted to get my lift going and didn't have Sean to help me film on the days I was available. I'm thinking about doing a review of the lift letting people know some of the issues I had, mainly dealing with the external reservoirs and getting the lift height right in the front. The goal would be to make it easier for anyone installing the lift because I have to admit it was a pain in the butt. I'm not the best mechanic in the world, but I figure if I struggled, others will struggle too and maybe giving people some guidance on this lift will make it easier for them.
Would love to hear your trial and tribulations on this. I have my 1.2 waiting for me state side (im up in the great white north). Im planning to pick it up in three weeks and perform the install myself. Im also considering changing the lower ball joints and all the bushings, which I will definitely use your videos as reference, thanks Tim.
So you got the same Sonoran Steel Radflo external reservoir lift?
I got the 1.2 lift with the radflo's and 650 springs but without the external reservoirs. I didnt want the hassle of mounting the reservoir's and for my application the reservoir's are over kill.
Ok, you'll have a much easier time than I had then. Dealing with the reservoirs was the majority of my problems. If I had to do it again, I wouldn't get them. Like you and for most of us, reservoirs are overkill.
I am going to have a shop weld these. Do you think if the vehicle is on a lift that raises from the frame versus load on the wheels, will the brackets have the ability to be aligned?
You wouldn't want it on an alignment lift where the weight of the vehicle is on the tires. It's better to lift via the frame rails so you can find the sweet spot of the height the rear axle needs to be in order to get the panhard bolt holes lined up. The frame is supported by jack stands and then with a hydraulic jack under the pumpkin of the axle, you adjust the height of the axle to get the bolt holes lined up and the bar bolted the axle and to the passenger side frame.
I put a 3” lift on my 96 3rd gen and it definitely sways. Buying these brackets ASAP. I can use the factory lateral bar right? I just bought rear stabilizer bar, links, upper and lower control arms and lateral bar and would hate to have to purchase an adjustable one.
Yes, you can use your OEM lateral control arm bar.
Sonaron Steel makes an adjustable trac bar easy install better option.
Yeah, and so does Toytec, but an adjustable panhard bar doesn't address the geometry change that happens from a lift. Bringing the panhard bar back closer to horizontal helps with the handling of the rear end. So, an adjustable panhard bar is nice to have to dial in the centering of the rear end but I don't agree that it's a "Better" option. I think both the PCK and an adjustable panhard bar is the way to go.
What process did he use? Looks like either a really hot mig weld or flux core. 🤷🏼♂️ can’t tell lol. Definitely inspired to do this to mine.
Mig
Hey Timmy! Love the videos. I just got an adjustable panhard bar from Sonoran steel and the instructions say not to use the bar with a drop bracket or a lift bracket as you will increase the roll center. I’m wondering if you noticed that at all since you did both brackets. My guess is that it could be bad if you use their recommended length settings for a certain lift which doesn’t account for brackets but I can’t see it being an issue if you use the bar to center up your axle if it’s kicked out. Any thoughts?
Tons of people are using this kit without any issues. Steve has his opinion on the subject but myself and lots of others don't agree with him on this one.
@@TimmyTheToolman cool! Thanks for the swift response. You’re the man!
@@gabrieltrujillo2973 No problems Gabriel. We're here to help and that includes answering peoples questions.
What’s up Timmy! Will I be able to use my stock panhard bar along with those brackets? I have a 3 inch front and rear lift
Yes! Sean is using his stick panhard bar on both of his rigs with the eimkieth correction kit. The nice thing about having and adjustable bar though is you could fine tune the remaining shift your axle might have. We have found that the stock panhard bar with these brackets centers it pretty good though.
Awsome vida heaps of info, how do your the old genuine rubber bushings? Cheers
I'm not sure what your question is regarding the bushings.
@@TimmyTheToolman do the old toyota bushings have to be pressed out if you just replacing the bushings to poly one's
@@lukeneave I've never tried to remove the OEM bushings from the panhard bar. My guess is they would need to be pressed or possibly burned out. I would try a press first using an impact socket a little smaller than the inner diameter of the arm as my press sleeve to force the bushing out.
Hey Timmy Sonoran steel says you don’t need these anymore just the adjustable pan hard bar. Per their website what do you think I’m lifting my 1998 2.5”.
I like Steve at Sonoran Steel but he is just one guy with one opinion on this subject. Myself and a host of others don't agree with him on this. Do your own research and make up your own mind. For a 2.5" lift, you would probably be ok with out this mod but you could get better handling with it.
After welded, without bar attached. can vehicle be moved in a parking lot to then attach panhard bar? Can it be driven 20 feet without bar?
I've never tried this but I'm guessing you could. But, it's going to put extra strain on the two rear control arms so I would move very slowly and avoid taking turns if you can.
Those with a 2” lift can just install the axle side 2” lift bracket. I wonder if the manufacturer would mind selling just the one side to save him manufacturing time and us a few dollars.
Hey Chaz, you should contact Keith and ask him. Your request sounds very reasonable. Not everyone needs both brackets.
Ya know, I just ordered the whole thing. Decided to just support a good guy helping the community out.
Well Chaz, I'm happy Keith is making products for our 3rd Gens. I do think it would be beneficial to him and his customers if he allowed people to just buy the lift bracket for the driver side. Some people already have a drop bracket welded on the passenger side and just want the lift bracket to level out the panhard bar more. Others like you have a mild lift and only want the lift bracket for the driver side as well. I think he put in an order at a CNC business and ordered an equal amount of lift and drop brackets and that's why he doesn't want to sell the lift bracket on it's own because he'll be left with a bunch of passenger side drop brackets that nobody wants on their own.
Sounds probable. Free Market, brother! If enough people demand the half kit he can either accommodate or lose customers. If not many people request it then he won't take a hit. If he wants to just be a nice dude and do his customers right . . . ha.
Im going to get a 3” lift installed and my 4runner is a 2wd, would I still need to do this? And what else do you recommend I get done after doing the lift? All advice is great thank you
Well Chris, it depends on what lift kit you bought. Some lift kits come with an adjustable panhard bar so you wouldn't necessarily have to get a PCK to get your rear end centered. I do think the PCK is superior to using an adjustable panhard bar. if you lift kit doesn't come with an extended brake line that leads to the rear axle, you'd want to get one so you don't rip your brake line while going off-road.
@@TimmyTheToolman Super helpful comment! Thanks
Was the inside of the axle pck welded as well? Or was the outside welded only?
Just the outside is fine. It's really too tight to get in on the inside with the welding tip.
Do you know if they sell the axle end lift only? I bought an elocker housing all stock
At the time we made this video, he wasn't selling the brackets separately but maybe he has since changed this rule. I'd contact Keith and ask him. His contact info is in the video description.
Hey Tim, I have a 4 1/2 inch lift in the rear and currently have the same SS adjustable panhard bar as well. How much adjustment did you have to do to the adjustable panhard bar after the brackets installed?
Using Steve's instructions, I had to adjust the bar by how much lift in the rear. So do I adjust the panhard bar back to factory specs after the brackets are installed? Sorry, this is the only thing confusing me. Thanks.
Sean don't over think it. Get the brackets installed and adjust the bar to make the bar fit with the weight of truck on the tires. At 4.5 inches of lift in the rear, you will want the lift bracket on the driver side and be using the bottom hole on the bracket of the passenger side. Take measurements from the frame to the outside of the tire tread on both sides and see where you're at. If the measurements are way off, drive it around the block and check again. If it's still off, jack up under the rear end, unbolt the bar from the adjusting side and jack up the rig until the wheels are off the ground. See if you can extend or retract the bar to bring the rearend in the direction you need to. You should be able to get the rearend pretty centered. I like Steve but his math computations didn't work out for me for the front shock adjustments nor did it work out for the panhard bar. I found I just needed to do some trial and error to get it right.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the reassurance, Tim. I'm going to see my welder tomorrow to get these brackets installed. Thanks again.
Just got the brackets installed with my sonoran steel adjustable panhard back in. Just want to let everyone know that it definitely improved city and freeway driving over bumps and compressions. I also have new upper and lower rear control arm bushings for reference. Thanks for the video Tim and Sean.
@@seans158 You're welcome Sean. Good to hear the brackets improved the handling of your rig. You should message Keith on his website and thank him for designing these brackets.
generally speaking, what would you say is a fair price to pay a welder to get these installed? I have a few welders quoting me 250 - 300 which seems a bit high.
I guess those welders work for $250/hour. It should only take one hour of work to get those brackets welded on.
Hey Timmy! I have the same Sonoran Steel panhard bar and recently installed the PCK. I want to ensure I know how to obtain the correct length of the adjustable bar while getting the axle centered... procedurally, can you tell me how you would get the bar to the proper length prior to bolting it up? Do you leave the tires on after measuring like you did in the video, then jack up from the pumpkin and install the axle side first, then adjust the bar until it lines up with the bolt hole etc...? Trying to wrap my head around the proper steps to take. Thanks in advance!
It's a little trial and error. Because the Sonoran Steel bar can't be adjusted when bolted up, you just have to guesstimate. Drop the truck to the ground and take measurements from the tire to the frame rail. Using one of the outer tread lugs on the tire works pretty well as a landmark to measure to. If the measurements aren't equal side to side, get back under there, disconnect the panhard bar, make the adjustment to the length and hopefully you get it spot on. If not, you keep doing it until you get the rear end centered. It's too bad Steve didn't make it adjustable with the bar connected. That's the best advice I can give you.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the quick reply and that makes sense to me! Really appreciate all the content and all you guys do for this community 🤙🏼
@@markrummans1532 You're welcome Mark. If you have more questions you know where to find us.
Don’t tell anyone but I operate a business specializing in used 1980-1995 Toyota truck parts. We ship globally, so let me know if you ever need parts
Good to know Rob. I might need your services one day.
would I be right in assuming this would correct the issue where the adjustable Panhards cause the drive shaft to hit the gas tank skid at full compression? Also is this considered durable enough for prerunner use?
It would help prevent the driveshaft from hitting the gas tank skid but I don't know if it would prevent it entirely. When 4wheeling, your rearend might be forced over to the drive side due to the forces working on it and the rear slip yoke hits the gas tank skid. I just installed a Lil' Skip's Offroad gas tank skid plate and it has a cut-out for the slip yoke so there's extra room for rear end movement.
If you're talking about the Tacoma Prerunner, Tacomas have a leaf spring set-up and not a coil spring set-up for the rear suspension so they don't use a panhard bar.
Timmy The Toolman good information as always. I meant the type of desert racing people refer to as prerunner.
Oh, never heard of Prerunner desert racing. I suppose it would hold up just fine as long as the welds are good.
A dumb procedural question....Do you take the panhard bar off at home and then get it welded up and drive home to later reinstall? Or best just to find someone willing to do the whole job for you If not comfortable welding to that level? BTW Your vids are amazing. Helped me get me valve covers replaced myself. Thank you!
Hey Tim, the vehicle needs to be at the welder's shop because the brackets weld to vehicle and not to the panhard bar.
Glad you like our videos and great to hear our valve cover gasket video helped you get the job done. You're very welcome!
Sorry I should clarify. I meant to take the bar off at home and then drive to the welder to get the brackets welded to the vehicle without the panhard installed. It seems like it would be easier to have it removed and ready to go for the welder but also wasn’t sure about drivability in that state
Do not drive around without your panhard bar on. It helps to stabilize the vehicle and if you whip around a turn fast enough you could bend something or throw your driveshaft into the gas tank. Take off your pan hard bar at the place you intent to weld it at. Driving a couple feet is fine but not long distances and definitely not on the freeway.
- Sean
wont those extensions bind up and get in the way when flexing?
No they won’t.
those welds look kinda hinky man.
Zefside82 Really? The welds look really good to me. Wes is an excellent welder with 18 year's of experience. I'm not in the least bit concerned his welds aren't going to hold. But, you know what they say, opinions are like a certain body part and everyone has one. Do you have anything else to comment about or is that it?
Did this correct that rear swaying you were talking about
It improved my handling some. If you're having some rear end sway, it could also be worn out rear control arm bushings. We have two videos for replacing the rear control arm bushings. Check them out: Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement ruclips.net/video/nq-lzK7CPKQ/видео.html Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Replacement ruclips.net/video/IvBid-kIdiI/видео.html
hi, whats the brand of your pandhard bar? im looking for one but i don"t know if i get a sonoran steel or an apoc , which one do you think is the best? im starting to lifting my 97 SR5 and i wanna do it the best i can and i'm asking for advice because you're a PRO!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH.
Sonoran Steel.
Thank you.
@@julioarrecis666 No problem Julio.
This absolutely needs to be welded or can it be bolted on? I'm just a mall crawler lol 😆
It needs to be welded.
Do you have to take the wheels off and drop the whole axle in order to do the pck? Or can you just jack it up a little.
It's best to get the wheels off and have a jack under the differential to allow you to adjust the height to where it's easiest to remove and reinstall the bolts for the panhard bar.
@@TimmyTheToolman I see, so just wheels off and a jack. Thanks man!
Hey Timmy, gotta ask for some advice here. Finally after about 9 months of having the brackets I installed the PCK yesterday. I have 3" lift springs so I followed your video as far as no washers when using the middle hole. Unfortunately, this leaves quite a bit of slop between the bushing and the bracket and when I was trying to tighen everything down it began to squeeze/pinch the bracket itself. So it seems you do need to use the washers in the middle hole? Okay, so tried to put the washers in there and the stock portion of the bracket is in the way, not allowing the washers to slide into place. Even if you could get them in there you'd be bending the washer(s) putting everything in a bind. I guess my question is, are you sure guys using the middle hole don't use washers? Seems like that gap shouldn't be there between bushing and bracket. I was concerned that after all this work I'd have a clanking panhard bar now but I didn't really notice anything, but I'd like everything to be tight. Sorry for the novel, but I was bummed at the end of a decent install. If you could lend any guidance, I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks.
I remember following the instructions from Eimkeith for the install. You're the first person to let us know of this issue. I'd contact Keith via his website and relay the issue you are having and see what he says.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks man.
@@TheChapMX Keith will know how to address it. Good luck!
@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah I was pretty bummed, I expected bolting the thing up to be the easy part hahah. Ah well.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey Timmy, just following up. I got in touch with Keith and he said that he does recommend using the "spacers" (washers) in the middle hole. He said if they wont slide in there to shave them down to make them fit. The metal comes down so far from the factory part of the frame on mine that I'm pretty sure I'd have to basically cut the washer in half to make that happen. I'm still kind of brain storming but just for those in the future....I would recommend grinding down more of the factory metal away before welding the new bracket on to allow room for those washers. Wish I would've noticed this before welding but live and learn! Take care..and thanks again for all you and Sean do.
Hey Tim! Awesome vid! Just wondering if you recall what One Off Customs charged for the job? Can't find a reputable welder in the East Bay and if the price is right, I'd drive to Morgan Hill to get'er done.
Wes charges around $100/hour for his time for projects like this. He prefers to just take on big projects like these full hot rod restorations but he is open to smaller jobs when he has the time. To just weld on the PCK brackets, it will probably only be 1 hour labor. Just give a Wes a call in advance and see if he has the time to do it for you.
Wow, that Sonoran Steel panhard bar is BEEFY. Seems like a good deal at the price point, just ordred one. One of my wheels is sticking out like .5" more than the other. Lateral adjustability + correction brackets = win win
Yep, you'll like that combo to re-center your rear axle.
Did you have to remove either rear tires for extra room for the welder to get to all sides of the weld?
You should definitely remove the tires when welding this in. It gives you the room needed to do the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman hey I noticed my abs light on after the lift bracket Welding was finished. Is it normal? Will it go away on its own?
@@damacknificent151 No, that's not normal. There's a chance the wire was damaged from the welding. Inspect the ABS lines going to the rear sensors. I suspect on of them might have gotten melted by accident from the welding operation.
@@TimmyTheToolmaneverything looks good down there
@@damacknificent151 If the wires look good, I don't know what could have caused the ABS light to come on.
Hi Timmy, i have a question that might sound dumb, if i was to get these drop and rise brackets. Can one i one day go back to stock height without un-welding them? Will there be any interference when back to stock? Is it even possible to mount them back to the original holes?
Are you lifting your rig? If so, how much? If you're not lifting your rig, you really don't need this modification. If you're doing a mild lift, 1-2", just weld on the driver side lift bracket. If you're going to lift 3" or higher, also weld on the passenger side drop bracket. Are you asking this question because you think you might want to add a suspension lift and then get rid of it later down the road?
@@TimmyTheToolman i did a mild lift, i would say. The old man emu 2906 rear springs with 5100 bilsteins in the rear. Maybe 2, 2.5 inch lift. But i do noticed driver wheel inside close to half an inch. My front is the same for some reason. I checked the alignment they sayd its good. Have any ideas why the front wheel driver is inside a little more than passenger?
@@damacknificent151 I have the 906s in the rear of my 2000 4runner and haven't bothered with installing the brackets. If I did, I'd just weld on the driver side lift bracket to get the panhard bar more level. So you're saying your driver side front wheel seems to be sitting 1/2" in more than the passenger side front wheel?
@@TimmyTheToolman yes sir. I also checked the threads from the rack & pinion and the are even. I was thinking maybe those bolts with big washers and lines on them where the lower control arms might have somthing to do with it? Is there an adjustment to make the wheel stick in or out? My truck hasn't been in a wreck either . Dont know what can be causing this
@@damacknificent151 The lower control arm cam adjusters can push the wheel in or out to adjust the camber but they wouldn't push the wheel out evenly. For one side to be out 1/2" more than the other side, the camber would have to be off. Where are you taking your measurements from?
Is a mild lift like a 2-3” lift? Or less?
I would say a mild lift is 1-2 inches. With just a mild lift, you could install just the driver side axle housing lift bracket. For lifts 3 inches or more, the drop bracket on the passenger side frame is recommended as well.
Is this needed for us that put on the 99 springs or is that not enough lift?
The 99 springs only lift you 1 inch. It is reported that just using the axle side lift bracket could improve your handling with a mild lift, but I ran the 99 springs for a long time on my 2000 3rd Gen and my rig handled just like it handled with the stock springs. So, it's up to you if you want to try out the axle side lift bracket. If your rig is handling fine for you, you probably don't need to do this mod.
Thank you for your great vids and keeping our old 4Runners going!
You're very welcome.
I notice your panhand bar is not the same as stock. Where did you get it?
That is a Sonoran Steel adjustable panhard bar. It came with the lift I bought from Sonoran Steel but you can buy them separately from the Sonoran Steel website.
Just went to the website to buy and it says the website will be down til the 13 of June! What a terrible time for them to go especially with your following I was ready to buy today!
Yeah, you're right. I just checked the Sonoran Steel website myself and it is down like you said.
Hi Timmy,
Is there any reason to do this if you're not lifted? Thanks.
Keith the guy who makes the brackets would argue that there is because adding just the driver side lift bracket could make the panhard bar more parallel and improve handling. In my opinion, I wouldn't do this mod to a stock rig. I would only do it to rigs lifted 3 inches or more in the rear. I'm currently running OME 906 springs in the rear of my 2000 4runner which give me around 2 inches of lift and my rig handles just fine. Would my rig handle a little better by adding the lift bracket on the driver side? It probably would but I really didn't notice any change in handling between stock springs in the rear and the 906s I'm currently running and that's why I decided to not install the bracket.
@@TimmyTheToolman gotcha...I'm stock but the rear end seems to jump around a little in the rear when I'm driving over stuff like railroad tracks, potholes, etc...was wondering if this would help quiet that down.
I haven't taken it off-road yet (just got it a couple weeks ago), so I can only attest to this on-road.
Will this kit recenter my axel?, I have 906s in the rear and my axel shifted to the passenger side about an inch.
Isaac Sachez it does to a certain extent. Ultimately, this panhard correction bracket kit AND an adjustable panhard bar is the best of both words and your only real option to truly center your axle. This bracket helps more with getting your panhard bar back to its original stock horizontal angle. When your panhard bar is horizontal it helps with bump steer. When you go over bumps, and your axle is pulled to the side, your vehicle is pulled to the side when you go over bumps. This bracket helps alleviate that.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you
@@internetperson9110 You're welcome Isaac.
What lift are you using in the rear
I bought a Sonoran Steel Lift 1.2 lift with the Radflo 2.5 shocks with external reservoirs. The initial rear springs I got with the lift were insufficient for the weight I was carrying so I switched to OME 861 springs which effectively give you a 5.5" inch lift in the rear with no additional weight. With the rear bumper weight, it probably sags down to a 5 inch lift and then when I load down with a bunch of gear for a trip probably drops another inch or so because I carry a lot of tools and gear when camping and 4wheeling.
Timmy... if you ever need some welding done let me know
Just kidding btw haha
Oakie doakie.
Tim I got a high idle on my Taco. around 2k in park. 5vzfe . any suggestions ?
Have you recently cleaned the throttle body? If so, the run-off can drain into the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve and cause a high idle. If not, I'd remove the throttle body, and pull off the IAC and clean it. Just be careful removing the screws that hold the IAC onto the throttle body. People have said they are hard to remove and they strip the heads of the screws. Clean the IAC with throttle body cleaner and then reinstall. Make sure the throttle body plate/baffle is closing properly and not hanging up. There's also a chance you have a vacuum leak. Look for cracked vacuum lines or vacuum lines that have slipped off their fitting.
I had the exact same thing happen to me resetting the ecu did nothing... a week of driving and it set itself straight
@@TimmyTheToolman and Ty - I've also experienced this. The IAC is likely, but I've also found that the throttle assembly can be the culprit as well. With the vehicle running, try pulling forward on the springed apparatus (where your throttle cable is tensioned) and see if there is any play there. When you pull forward, you may notice it moves towards you ever so slightly and the idle may go down. If this is the case, it means the butterfly valve inside of the TB isn't lined up perfectly and catches on the opening, not allowing it close completely and therefore idling high. The fix is the shave down a washer to be thin and put it on the backside of that assembly (closest to the TB) in order to move it forward to where it was stock, before the parts wore down. This can bring the butterfly valve back to alignment and help the issue.
Here's a great link and there are videos on RUclips as well/ www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/123396-my-high-idle-cured.html
ruclips.net/video/IIbTvxR1TQk/видео.html
This was the case with mine. I haven't gotten around to putting the washer on, but instead installed a $2 helper spring to pull the throttle "down" and it fixed my issue.
@@samchambers7935 Thanks for sharing this Sam.
Hey Tim, I installed the correction kit. Seems like my driver side is sticking out .5 inches compared to my passenger side. I do have an adjustable panhard bar which I extended slightly. Any recommendations on centering this 😅
Did you install both brackets, the one on the frame and the one on the axle? If so, you will have to adjust your adjustable panhard bar to center your rear end.
@@TimmyTheToolman yup I did. As of now the adjustable panhard bar is extended slightly on the passenger side but not extended at all on the driver side.
@@SILVERBACK086 Yeah, just dial in the length of the panhard bar to center your rear end and you'll be golden. Happy Wrenching and Sic Mods!
@@TimmyTheToolman I shall buy u some lunch. Appreciate your feedback.
@@TimmyTheToolman how can I send you a $20. Lunch on me
Does anyone have a long term review of this kit? How did your weld job hold up?
Well, my PCK has holding up just fine since we shot this video. As long as the welds are decent, there shouldn't be a problem.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks
Where did you get that adjustable bar from?
Sonoran Steel. ToyTec makes one as well.
Okay thanks man, awesome videos!
Would this be necessary if I will only plan on lifting 2.5" inches
Necessary? No. Would it help give you a better alignment of your rear end and improve your handling? Yes it would.
@@TimmyTheToolman ok thanks Timmy👍🏽
So I’m just gonna go with an extended pan hard bar. Does anyone know if I can get away with getting a longer one say off a tundra? Or do I need to buy an adjustable one?
Don't know if a Tundra panhard bar will work. You'll most likely have to get an adjustable one.
@@TimmyTheToolman sure, I’m curious about more parts interchangeably between the models. I recently lifted my 3rd gen. Instead of getting expensive extended ones, you can just move the front ones to the rear, and buy rear ones from a second gen for the front! Wondering how much more I could get away with
@@brendanschroeder1862 I don't know if you'll find your answer on our channel. You'll probably get a better result asking it on a Toyota forum or Toyota Facebook page.
I wonder if he makes these for a 5th gen 4RUNNER
Don't know Victor. We have Keith's contact info in the video description. Send him a message to find out if he does.
Timmy The Toolman looks like he does I just went on his website. thanks for posting that info 👍
@@Vhrodriguez91 No problem. Have fun doing Sic Mods to your 5th Gen.
Where did you get the panhard bar?
Sonoran Steel.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks!
@@thomaslam6821 You're welcome!
Hey do you work at valley medical center tim
No, but I live in San Jose around 5 min from VMC. I work for Salinas Fire Department.
Bro it I have 1inch lift in the back do I need to do this
No, you don't need it.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks bro
@@tr4ilblazin You're welcome.
Hate excessive movement and play in the rearend.
Yeah, a tight rearend is nice to have.
I put a 3” lift on my 96 3rd gen and it definitely sways. Buying these brackets ASAP. I can use the factory lateral bar right? I just bought rear stabilizer bar, links, upper and lower control arms and lateral bar and would hate to have to purchase an adjustable one.
you can use the factory lateral control arm (panhard bar). The reason you would want to replace the stock bar with an adjustable one is to center the axle. After a lift the axle will get pulled to one side.