@@davidjester7175 haven't read it yet! But definitely should, I've got farmers and homesteads on the red planet too. The author has a whole 'future history' series, similar thing I'm going for. It's supposed to show how everday people like us are the one who will build the future.
Almost five years in and this channel has helped me tremendously given I don’t speak the language of most carpenters in my area! This has been a life saver just knowing the little things that can accelerate the process
I love the videos. They are always comprehensive, and organized. Plus I've asked questions a couple times and you always respond with a good answer. That's what sets your channel apart. Thanks for the content!!!
Aside from the great work, The thought process as far as thinking ten steps ahead for every step you take shows your advanced level of experience! And better yet, Building these homes to last for along time is the added bonus! Hats off to you and the crew!
Thank you! This is the only stair video I have come across that explains that after you take 1" off bottom of stringer, to add that inch back (in parts) to all of the risers to get back to your full rise necessary. Maybe common sense, but everything else I have watched stops after taking off that bottom inch and it was driving me crazy knowing that was just going to transfer the problem to the top stair. Thanks for a complete explanation!
I’ve done a lot but haven’t done stairs, I sure know where i’m coming before I do (it’s only time). Awesome video, I can’t imagine the amount of time it required to shoot, edit, and voice over. its like 20 scenes. Well done and thank you.
Love the Gary Katz method of stair layout your using. Since I started laying out with a calculator a few years back, my stairs are problem free, not having to shave or adjust for accumulative error
Something that has helped me is that I mark my layout across the entire stringer. I then use the tip of the framing square instead of the side to align on my mark. It eliminates trying to match the angle of the square with a straight mark.
Draw it out on CAD and any problems will show up before you build, i do it all the time. All you need is the FINISHED dimension from bottom floor to top floor and number of risers as per the architect's drawings.
@@drumrboynoidi use either Autocad or Revit. There is a light version of Autocad too that's cheaper than the full blown version but has limitations. Im a structural draftsman but i get requests from architects and builders to detail them, cheaper to find problems on the drawings than out in the field.
My favorite method on carriage stairs is to increase effective depth by not coming to a sharp point for your tread and riser lines. You can mark your pitch lines in the middle at your chosen effective depth, then run rise and run from that point. Remember your riser acts like a beam if cut accurately. You don't need full bearing for your risers and treads on the stinger because of the support provided by that riser.
nice work! It's interesting how you calculated the full height of the stairs (below and above the middle platform). No doubt you're relying on the accurate height placement of the previously installed platform
I’ve made hundreds of stringers for decks using the worst materials aka pond dried pressure treated lumber. My square would never make the same step twice so I used to make a step jig out of lumber an that always worked well for me. It takes longer but dealing with crumby lumber it was the best.
Tim, I would love a stair video where you focus on the connection of the stringer to the platform or next floor. It seems that connection is critical but I don't know that I understand the decision making in that area as well as I would like to. Thanks for the content.
Great point! I'll include that next time. Frankly, using the Stong-Tie Timber screws through the outside stringers into the walls either side, mean there isn't really anything special needed at the top. I pressure block between them at the top just for glue and tread attachment.
@@AwesomeFramers Also, how to calculate a landing when the upper flight lands on the outside corner that the rim joist makes with the deck of the landing below? Or, is it worth doing it that way?
@@ronw8628 I'll be totally honest with you. I don't think its worth it, but if I was going to do it, I just cut the upper set, hold them in place and mark where they go. Its idiotproof 60% of the time, all the time.
Thanks for the amazing content!! If the tread cut is 10” but there is an overhang, does that mean each step is actually maybe an 11” deep? i.e when you cut the Advantech treads, did you cut them 10” wide or 11+”? Looks to me like they’d be >10” since you also have the overhang.
Thanks man. Truly appreciate the tips and walk through. We're poor. I build our own shite on our prooerty Ppl say oh that looks good; I just chuckle and think...if you only knew. This stuff helps me be a bit more "awesome" and a little less hack and whack 😂
If the tread cut is 10” but there is an overhang, does that mean each step is actually maybe an 11” deep? i.e when you cut the Advantech treads, did you cut them 10” wide or 11+”? Looks to me like they’d be >10” since you also have the overhang?
This is very similar to how Kyle at RR Buildings described stair layout, using the hypotenuse of the rise and tread to keep you in check as you go along.
Yep, its a good method. I first learned this in the early 2000's on the JLC forums. A few years later I was spending time a with finish carpenter after work and he said he does the same thing.
@@AwesomeFramers When my wife and I built our deck some years ago, the stairs were the thing I struggled with the most, and looking back it's 🤦♂that it never occurred to me to mark out the stringers this way. That and home center super wet pressure treated lumber.
Can you elaborate? In what way does it make a difference? Not being argumentative here, but when this whole assembly is put together, it doesn't. Sum is greater than the parts.
@@AwesomeFramers Maybe I misunderstood you. I’m talking about crosscutting the lines with a circular saw as opposed to squaring them with a straight blade saw as not to weaken the stringer.
I usually use a 2"x4"or 6" between the wall and the stringer, To allow for a 1"x 8" or10" stringer installed after the drywall with base shoe on the top edge. I hope the trim package didn't call for a wall stringer. Lol
The best way is level from your top landing to where your going to hit the floor then do your math on that measurement. Also in this case (a step landing) cut your first tread leaving all the risers and treads uncut expect your top and bottom fit it in place plumbing one of my riser lines.m then tacking it in place with 1 or 2 nails. Then I build my 2 landings tacking them together then the bottom stringer. I’m usally dead nuts at this point and let my guys finish. That way if your off and forgot like 1/2 for carpet or tile vs 1” for finish tread or the 1.5 for rough tread off bottom what ever your not out 3 stringers just one you can still use for rough treads or header or something. Doing it this way is safer because you’ll find out fast if you hit head room or enough room for run and min landing width (3’ drywall to drywall) run what ever and I build double landings to leave as much height as possible for headroom and it’s just faster than building one long one then 1 box on top that then having to rip the 2xs for the higher one. I was taught this way 30 years ago. On apartments I just make a pattern outta 3/4 advantec glueing and screwing lengths and they are close enough. (Within 3/16) Also we have a code here 2 risers and 1 tread gotta be between 25 and 26”. So many times on custom houses using my method I’ll adjust the rise and the runs to make it all work by either adding a riser or taking on off making the rise a little bigger or smaller what ever the math is. So diving 7 into your total height the that number of risers back into total height. So like this video I think he said 16 risers I’d check and see what 17 and 15 look like also. Here in Florida 7.75 is max rise on residential and a bit steep I try and get closer to 7.25 or 7 if I can and min 10” tread exclusive of nosing. (So you can cut up to 10” treads so you’d have 11” rough tread. I try and get it where I have 11-1/4 so I don’t have to rip all my treads. (Our southern yellow pine 2x12s are usally 11-1/4.
@@AwesomeFramers i don't. May not have explained myself properly. Our terms are different such as the run is the total of your goings, not each step in our terms. I know US changed many English terms to US terms. I leave the chips on the floor. Also you may not be accustomed to aussie humour. It's sarcastic. Sorry if I offended you. You talk nice in your vids. I don't like typing too much on phones so .....
@@needaman66 nope, not offended. If I'd known you were an Aussie I would understood. I get Europeans that get very high and mighty. My bad bro. Someday I'll make it to Australia and I'll buy you a beer
@AwesomeFramers anytime there will anything like say refrigerator or something heavy like a couch gets dropped on the corner of 3/4 nosing of the plywood it'll crumble like a wet suit
@@aservant2287 this isn't plywood and it's a 1" nosing. I can tell you that if something like you are describing happens, it's just as likely to break 2x12 because of the grain pattern. You haven't worked with Advantech, it's insanely dense.
@AwesomeFramers ok, I'll take your word on but it seems backwards to say the least. The shear strength of 3/4 plywood will never be stronger than a 2 by. Unless you got proof the that the shear strength is stronger I'll stick with what I know is logical, go with a tread stock over any plywood all day long.
"What you're going to see IS IS...." And: "The other thing IS IS...." I know that everybody does this, but it's wrong. You only need one "is" in those sentences.
@@menow. And nothing. I'm just point it out....like you did. You don't like correction? It kills me how people will comment to point out something wrong, but god forbid I respond 🤣🤣🤣 we are all the same.
![Gucci Mane & Sexyy Red - You Don't Love Me [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j7IBqyFKT4c/mqdefault.jpg)
![Diggy Graves - Red Vineyard [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8Ro085T0mnQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I came for the awesome framing, I stayed for the positive attitude and commentary. Much love ❤️
Been framing for 30 years and still learning new tricks. Thank you for sharing. 👍
New carpenter, broke my ankle a few weeks ago. Been 'awesome' to learn from y'all while I'm down!
I hope you heal up quick!
@@AwesomeFramersthanks, couple more weeks! Gives me time to work on my sci-fi book too. Turns out Mars is going to have carpenters 😲
@@MattBond00797I’m gonna take a wild guess and say that there’s a copy of Farmer In The Sky on your bookshelf
This guy is legit. Been reading his articles in JLC and following Tim for at least 10-15 years.
@@davidjester7175 haven't read it yet! But definitely should, I've got farmers and homesteads on the red planet too. The author has a whole 'future history' series, similar thing I'm going for. It's supposed to show how everday people like us are the one who will build the future.
I like the 2x8 risers. I going to use that on my next set of stairs
Almost five years in and this channel has helped me tremendously given I don’t speak the language of most carpenters in my area! This has been a life saver just knowing the little things that can accelerate the process
I’ll be ready, note pad ready!! 💯
I love the videos. They are always comprehensive, and organized. Plus I've asked questions a couple times and you always respond with a good answer. That's what sets your channel apart.
Thanks for the content!!!
Awesome Teacher, learn Something New every Video 👏👏
Aside from the great work,
The thought process as far as thinking ten steps ahead for every step you take shows your advanced level of experience!
And better yet,
Building these homes to last for along time is the added bonus!
Hats off to you and the crew!
Thank you! This is the only stair video I have come across that explains that after you take 1" off bottom of stringer, to add that inch back (in parts) to all of the risers to get back to your full rise necessary. Maybe common sense, but everything else I have watched stops after taking off that bottom inch and it was driving me crazy knowing that was just going to transfer the problem to the top stair. Thanks for a complete explanation!
Great video, easy to understand. We are very picky about the stringer material, most of the time we use LVL material
I need to replace some stringers and it’s always good to watch them being made 😊
Your work is some of the best! Thank you👍🏼
I’ve done a lot but haven’t done stairs, I sure know where i’m coming before I do (it’s only time). Awesome video, I can’t imagine the amount of time it required to shoot, edit, and voice over. its like 20 scenes. Well done and thank you.
Excellent video and tips!❤
Great video! I didn’t hear why you allowed for the overhang of material on the stair treads. Thanks for making it simple. 👍
cowboy,beautiful work as always🙏💕
Another great video .thx Tim .love it .💪👍👍
man! I would've still been laying out the stringers & you had them finished.... ;) cool video, thanks for taking us along.
Love the Gary Katz method of stair layout your using. Since I started laying out with a calculator a few years back, my stairs are problem free, not having to shave or adjust for accumulative error
Something that has helped me is that I mark my layout across the entire stringer. I then use the tip of the framing square instead of the side to align on my mark. It eliminates trying to match the angle of the square with a straight mark.
Draw it out on CAD and any problems will show up before you build, i do it all the time. All you need is the FINISHED dimension from bottom floor to top floor and number of risers as per the architect's drawings.
What CAD program do you use?
@@drumrboynoidi use either Autocad or Revit. There is a light version of Autocad too that's cheaper than the full blown version but has limitations. Im a structural draftsman but i get requests from architects and builders to detail them, cheaper to find problems on the drawings than out in the field.
Great stuff as usual mate! Gonna keep this one saved for when they finally let me build a staircase down here haha
1st Time Like & Comment, Good Luck To You!
Thanks Awesome Farmers!
My favorite method on carriage stairs is to increase effective depth by not coming to a sharp point for your tread and riser lines. You can mark your pitch lines in the middle at your chosen effective depth, then run rise and run from that point. Remember your riser acts like a beam if cut accurately. You don't need full bearing for your risers and treads on the stinger because of the support provided by that riser.
I wish you would have talked about how you attached the stringers at the top of each set - especially the middle stringer.
nice work! It's interesting how you calculated the full height of the stairs (below and above the middle platform). No doubt you're relying on the accurate height placement of the previously installed platform
I’ve made hundreds of stringers for decks using the worst materials aka pond dried pressure treated lumber. My square would never make the same step twice so I used to make a step jig out of lumber an that always worked well for me. It takes longer but dealing with crumby lumber it was the best.
Tim, I would love a stair video where you focus on the connection of the stringer to the platform or next floor. It seems that connection is critical but I don't know that I understand the decision making in that area as well as I would like to. Thanks for the content.
Great point! I'll include that next time. Frankly, using the Stong-Tie Timber screws through the outside stringers into the walls either side, mean there isn't really anything special needed at the top. I pressure block between them at the top just for glue and tread attachment.
@@AwesomeFramers Also, how to calculate a landing when the upper flight lands on the outside corner that the rim joist makes with the deck of the landing below? Or, is it worth doing it that way?
@@ronw8628 I'll be totally honest with you. I don't think its worth it, but if I was going to do it, I just cut the upper set, hold them in place and mark where they go. Its idiotproof 60% of the time, all the time.
Thanks for the amazing content!! If the tread cut is 10” but there is an overhang, does that mean each step is actually maybe an 11” deep? i.e when you cut the Advantech treads, did you cut them 10” wide or 11+”? Looks to me like they’d be >10” since you also have the overhang.
Man i wish we had that advantec glue in the uk. We still use the PU un bottles like PVA it goes everywhere and you are down on your knees all day.
I wish truewerk still had that sun hoodie in stock
Thanks man.
Truly appreciate the tips and walk through.
We're poor. I build our own shite on our prooerty Ppl say oh that looks good; I just chuckle and think...if you only knew.
This stuff helps me be a bit more "awesome" and a little less hack and whack 😂
If the tread cut is 10” but there is an overhang, does that mean each step is actually maybe an 11” deep? i.e when you cut the Advantech treads, did you cut them 10” wide or 11+”? Looks to me like they’d be >10” since you also have the overhang?
Are those saw horses made from form board? I want some.
ruclips.net/video/4dWMdq9lGHU/видео.htmlfeature=shared
This is very similar to how Kyle at RR Buildings described stair layout, using the hypotenuse of the rise and tread to keep you in check as you go along.
Yep, its a good method. I first learned this in the early 2000's on the JLC forums. A few years later I was spending time a with finish carpenter after work and he said he does the same thing.
@@AwesomeFramers When my wife and I built our deck some years ago, the stairs were the thing I struggled with the most, and looking back it's 🤦♂that it never occurred to me to mark out the stringers this way. That and home center super wet pressure treated lumber.
It definitely does make a difference if you over cut.
Can you elaborate? In what way does it make a difference? Not being argumentative here, but when this whole assembly is put together, it doesn't. Sum is greater than the parts.
@@AwesomeFramers Maybe I misunderstood you. I’m talking about crosscutting the lines with a circular saw as opposed to squaring them with a straight blade saw as not to weaken the stringer.
@AwesomeFramers Wouldn't it be easier to mark it out if you put the stair gauges on the opposite side of the square that you were using to mark?
Great question, subjectivley? I don't think so. I think its the same.
Ive finally figured it out! You have the same voice as Ryan Reynolds 😂
Dios los Bendiciones 🙏
Was waiting the whole time for him to “Karate Kid” the big square into a stud to hold it.
I usually use a 2"x4"or 6" between the wall and the stringer,
To allow for a 1"x 8" or10" stringer installed after the drywall with base shoe on the top edge.
I hope the trim package didn't call for a wall stringer. Lol
I always have problems measuring accurately where the rise and run lines meet because the board edge is rounded over. Can you speak to that?
I think its just an experience thing.
I wish we had framing crews here who cared as much as these awesome framers! I have to build my own house because I don't trust anyone around here
What marking pencil or pen are you using ? Can you link to it ?
www.amazon.com/Pica-6060-SB-Longlife-Contruction/dp/B07KPMKSK8/ref=sr_1_19?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.1hUVl0E2rnJqGXSgO1eDu_UdvTDuZ55kwGEC1OM4ZSfRRpIWFopr1diBWv5BvrWoSeE_5WxiBx_8fl6kqBPKzZ6JN3GGe_01hQqWZsObZgw4Ws0AN8Z6zvXG7lXxLpUu-0-pF9TWr654lnEXZHHd4PYrVP3rrKdRpije6MuYLm_D96826HN4PsndwB0GXOeUu_BmbjJWJbPN0Ep2VEPGz3lrNpXm4hb5AQjnt2WXkLXSc8GL_ecyjHrmW1wOOdLDUE4yGgWtSPKUL1F3pAItCNjRRx6JfsVH1OelXt7HOIU.lckGP1-s6-cqt0wdllMYTOiJF7bmakD6KJ8iRs6copg&dib_tag=se&keywords=Pica&qid=1722696294&sr=8-19
It’s calculating the hypotenuse or bridge measurement
The best way is level from your top landing to where your going to hit the floor then do your math on that measurement.
Also in this case (a step landing) cut your first tread leaving all the risers and treads uncut expect your top and bottom fit it in place plumbing one of my riser lines.m then tacking it in place with 1 or 2 nails. Then I build my 2 landings tacking them together then the bottom stringer. I’m usally dead nuts at this point and let my guys finish. That way if your off and forgot like 1/2 for carpet or tile vs 1” for finish tread or the 1.5 for rough tread off bottom what ever your not out 3 stringers just one you can still use for rough treads or header or something. Doing it this way is safer because you’ll find out fast if you hit head room or enough room for run and min landing width (3’ drywall to drywall) run what ever and I build double landings to leave as much height as possible for headroom and it’s just faster than building one long one then 1 box on top that then having to rip the 2xs for the higher one. I was taught this way 30 years ago. On apartments I just make a pattern outta 3/4 advantec glueing and screwing lengths and they are close enough. (Within 3/16) Also we have a code here 2 risers and 1 tread gotta be between 25 and 26”. So many times on custom houses using my method I’ll adjust the rise and the runs to make it all work by either adding a riser or taking on off making the rise a little bigger or smaller what ever the math is. So diving 7 into your total height the that number of risers back into total height. So like this video I think he said 16 risers I’d check and see what 17 and 15 look like also. Here in Florida 7.75 is max rise on residential and a bit steep I try and get closer to 7.25 or 7 if I can and min 10” tread exclusive of nosing. (So you can cut up to 10” treads so you’d have 11” rough tread. I try and get it where I have 11-1/4 so I don’t have to rip all my treads. (Our southern yellow pine 2x12s are usally 11-1/4.
What kind of shoes are you wearing here? They steel toe? Cheers from Canada
The low top version of these www.keenfootwear.com/collections/mens-work-boots/products/mens-kenton-mid-naval-academy-gum
@@AwesomeFramers thank you sir, much apprciated
Killer tutorial, thanks! Definitely seems like a very accurate and efficient method.
The few extra minutes it might take to do things right the first time, pays big dividends when you don't have to go back and fix things later.
My state has a minimum tread depth of 11” and max rise of 7”
Not the point of the vid but those saw horses are very smart. I need to make a set of those.
Are you sure you want people to hit the like button twice?
Goings. Treads is the material you put on them. Rise and going
up.codes/s/stairways
@@AwesomeFramers yeah you guys made up your own terms. And thats ok
@@needaman66 these are terms in the code, and trade publications. Why do you have such a chip on your shoulder?
@@AwesomeFramers i don't. May not have explained myself properly. Our terms are different such as the run is the total of your goings, not each step in our terms. I know US changed many English terms to US terms. I leave the chips on the floor. Also you may not be accustomed to aussie humour. It's sarcastic. Sorry if I offended you. You talk nice in your vids. I don't like typing too much on phones so .....
@@needaman66 nope, not offended. If I'd known you were an Aussie I would understood. I get Europeans that get very high and mighty. My bad bro.
Someday I'll make it to Australia and I'll buy you a beer
I’m my opinion stair building is carpenters bench mark
I guess I'm old school but we would put 1.5" treads and .75" risers. The nosing would be stronger
@@aservant2287 I would argue that what you might gain in strength on a 1.5" tread you lose in the imperfections of the sawn lumber tread.
@@AwesomeFramers not on tread stock, maybe on 2×12 though
@AwesomeFramers anytime there will anything like say refrigerator or something heavy like a couch gets dropped on the corner of 3/4 nosing of the plywood it'll crumble like a wet suit
@@aservant2287 this isn't plywood and it's a 1" nosing. I can tell you that if something like you are describing happens, it's just as likely to break 2x12 because of the grain pattern. You haven't worked with Advantech, it's insanely dense.
@AwesomeFramers ok, I'll take your word on but it seems backwards to say the least. The shear strength of 3/4 plywood will never be stronger than a 2 by. Unless you got proof the that the shear strength is stronger I'll stick with what I know is logical, go with a tread stock over any plywood all day long.
Factor of safety, not "safety factor". 😂
tomato, tomato
@@AwesomeFramers 😂🤣😭
"What you're going to see IS IS...." And: "The other thing IS IS...."
I know that everybody does this, but it's wrong. You only need one "is" in those sentences.
@@menow. I'm sure if you recorded yourself and listened to the play back,you'd find lots of things to nitpick. Do it while multitasking 👍🏻
@@AwesomeFramers And? So you don't appreciate the correction?
@@menow. And nothing. I'm just point it out....like you did. You don't like correction? It kills me how people will comment to point out something wrong, but god forbid I respond 🤣🤣🤣 we are all the same.
@@AwesomeFramers Buddy, you are a bit weird. Excellent framing info, though.