Useful video. Appreciated. Shame about the high horse brigade in the comments section. Don't see them going out of their way to make a video on doing this stuff.
Citadel sprays (and Vallejo, etc) contain an organic solvent that eats into the mini to make the paint stick. My advice is to scrub the paint off, then spray over the remaining paint. It will not be noticeable.
i've just stripped paint of a test wing for my Karl franz/ free guild general kit. and was wondering why there was a slight texture to the plastic and it no longer had the shine. i've googled alot and after randomly wathing this video for any tips for getting the last bits of paint off this comment was exactly what i was looking for. Thank you gumlass1
whats really important to know: IPA doesnt really damage plastic or metal, but resin starts to get really soft after about 30min I had the misfortune of experiencing that on old leman russ forgeworld turrets, where the smaller pieces can now be bent and its no longer feeling "firm"
@@LizardofDoom if you are lucky and the resin didn't absorb much of the IPA you can try to put it in sunlight / UV light and "dry" the resin But it's not a guarantee. For me it worked slightly on the Russ turret, but the difference is still noticeable compared to a good one, it's not much mainly because they are a solid block of resin, but I guess thinner pieces may run into trouble However, there is a third method that AFAIK doesn't affect Resin; Brake fluid (NOT BRAKE CLEANER) That stuff may be toxic if you drink it, and can't be disposed in the drain, but it works really good to strip paint from even resin, however it also smells really bad.
@@peterhiggins3329 rinsing is ok. Soaking is not. I've found you can do it in 20 minute increments without issues. For tougher stuff on resin, I use AK or GSW paint remover. Both work great, albeit very expensively.
Hey pro tip. Bottles with the filler orientated on the edge are designed to be poured while holding it sideways. It gives the liquid an air gap and keeps a nice laminar flow from the liquid. Washer fluid bottles, antifreeze, bleach, and apparently giant bottles of isopropyl alcohol - hold them long ways, then pour.
My recommendation for pouring the isopropyl alcohol back in is a funnel and coffee filter an when pouring with a jug pour from the side or with the opening opposite what your pouring into, never spilt engine oil this way
I use isopropyl alcohol to strip paint off of toys that I want to paint for my ttrpgs. Those kinds of paint wind up needing to sit for a couple days to loosen up enough. I find it helps if the alcohol is warmer, too.
May or may not be able to assist in future large-container-pouring, huzzah for unsolicited advice! If you pour from one of the larger flat surfaces and start at a nice gentle angle, the liquid within won’t be gurgling for continual intake since it won’t have as much volume above the neck of the bottle. Learned that the fun way growing up with rigs that devoured oil. Deffo go for that funnel too to get the useable contents back into the original container!
hey dude! top tip for pouring from those 5 litre bottles is turn them on their side when you pour, this way it allows the air to escape and stops that knarly chugging that splashes everywhere! thanks for the vid
To answer your question about the orange paint flakes, I think it's because (as you said) the paint was many thin layers that you patiently allowed to dry completely before the next application. So it was probably easier for the IPA to get behind the edge of the orange paint than to pass through all those consistent layers.
I use a combo of IPA and Methylated spirits to strip plastic and metal models (meths will ruin a lot of resins). Give them a couple of short (hour or so) soaks in IPA, scrubbing in between, and then leave them in the meths overnight for the particularly difficult bits. My biggest recommendation for working with stripped models is if you own an airbrush, prime them with that and not rattlecans, as you'll get a thinner, smoother finish which makes it even harder to tell that they were ever stripped!
Leave the IPA and the cloudy sediment will settle to the bottom after a few hours. Then scoop the clean IPA out and the dregs will evaporate, allowing you to just scrub the tub out.
A bit of a wine and mead maker's trick here. Next time you want to remove any liquid with sediment, you should try using a siphon. This will leave the worst sediment at the bottom and you can still use your sock to get the rest. Do that a second time with a coffee filter for even cleaner filtration.
If you are going to be doing a lot of that pouring back and forth, you might want to go to your local DIY store and pick up an inexpensive pair of safety glasses and a funnel.
I have used both "La's Totally Awesome" and "Purple Power" cleaner (separately) diluted 50/50 with water. Way less toxic than IPA--which I already use lots of in my 3D printer. Great video!
Sometimes, I absolutely love the timing of ads. "It took me days to paint the orange. And then games workshop dropped this..." "50% off pizza at dominos" lol😂
Twenty years ago in our game store we did a experiment where we tested on GW figs several substances on which was best on striping paint. We tested break fluid, gasoline, ISOPROPYL, Pine-sol, paint stripper. and several others. After a month the owner won Pine Sol. It was cheap, non toxic, non flame-able, smelled pleasenant and worked fast. Now I use Simply Green or La Faboulus!!!
This was really helpful! Bought a bunch of mixed Space Marines second hand that I want to repurpose as Deathwatch so thanks for taking the time to do this 😊
Thank you for the video! I’m gonna use IPA to strip some marines I bought! Some suggestions as I deal with solvents like IPA everyday. 1) pour slowly to avoid the “glug” and keep from splashing everywhere. 2) use a funnel and coffee filters to strain as you pour back into your jug, the coffee filters dry fast and you can use them 2-3 times before they get too gunked up 3) ventilate your space, wear eye protection and chemical resistant gloves. Solvents are toxic as hell 4) dispose of that sludge at a hazardous waste disposal site. Solvents are toxic and it’s bad to flush it down the drain. Solvents are toxic as hell
7:39 was satisfying, just how it peeled off, top tier vid, Also half way to 500 subs!!!!, just shows how great your vids are when almost half of your viewers are subbed! Well done 🎉🎉🎉
Primer is tricky to get off. The normal colour is easy, it just goobs off, as seen, but primer.... No matter the colour. Especially in the nooks... Like removing glue between two parts.
Pro tip for reusing your IPA, invest in a big funnel, and attach some form of filtering material to the bottom, makes it a faster and less messy process.
i had to work on a set of miniatures that the ex owner was more than liberal with his application of contrast paints. that took a bit of work to get out when i used IPA but it was way more efficient than other methods i used in the past.
I just started painting on my first set of models. My paint wont stick to the primer. Realized I had a primer / paint combo. This video is a good help to fix the mistake.
when you're pouring out of big 5l jugs like that, pour it sideways on or upside down from how you're doing it there. Way more control and less glugging splashing.
if you want to properly clean the isopropyl you'll want to run it through a bunch of cat litter and coffee filters, that will clean out all the junk in it
You can leave your plastic minis for more than a week in PA, no problem. To get rid of the primer (leadbelcher included), leave it for 3 days mini so you don't need to spend too long scrubbing the bastard with a toothbrush or a trade paintbrush. For filtering further used, get a pack of paper coffee filters the metallic pigments will get caught.
my go to back in the day was dot-3 brake fluid, but the dollar store where i am has big bottles of 91% rubbing alcohol, might give this approach a try for stripping some space marine scouts i got off ebay. alcohol ought to be easier to clean up after at least.
in the UK, go to home bargains/b&m etc etc and jet a bottle of the yellow spray stuff called 'elbow Grease' dunk your minis in and the paint just liquifies and washes back off, agitate with a tooth brush and repeat a soak. seems to be endlessly reusable, just a funky colour now. its £1.50 a litre..
To filter, try cutting the bottom off a 2 liter bottle, lay part of an old cotton tshirt around the inside, secure the ends around the side of the bottle, then use it as a funnel into the jug
My go-to stuff has always been Wilko paint and varnish stripper, which worked like a dream on plastics, but obviously that's no longer an option so I'm here doing some research. In my experience, spray paint is always far more difficult to get off than brushed acrylics, regardless of what you're using (I used to use Nitromors, which works great for metal models but will reduce plastics to sludge and can also burn your skin if it's on you too long). Tip for the future; if you pour from the bottle sideways it's easier to keep some airflow going in as the liquid comes out. This will eliminate the sloshing and prevent it from splashing everywhere. 🙂
Back in the day I used to hoover up miniatures with 50 layers of paint up off ebay for cheap. Then soak them overnight in Dettol (had to be the original not pine scented) and scrub off with a toothbrush. Gloves were a must or you lost the top 10 layers of skin off your hands.
Brown Dettol works good as long as your models don't have spray primer on, the paint will just slide off quite easily, but that might only he viable for smaller models that are hand primed. Most of my army was quite easy to remove the paint from with this method, but things I'd spray primed, especial with a lot of surface area like my rhino, were quite time consuming.
@LizardofDoom oh? Then I was mislead by the people I've spoken to before, they made out like dettol was some magical substance So my models smell of pine cleaner for nothing lmao
Thanks for the video, I’m about to try save some models I failed miserably to paint white, funnily enough a similar sort of situation to you, white/yellow/orange really did suck.
Just be careful with the iso as it is highly combustible, especially the vapours you can't see. As you say, good ventilation is a very good idea. It works well, but you just have to treat it like any potentially dangerous chemicals with care. Obviously storage away from pets and children as it of course would be very harmful for them. It is an irritant too, so gloves are good. I know it probably sounds a bit obvious, but probably worth including warnings for safety in videos just to cover yourself. It is fantastic with metal models btw. Obviously no use for resin. An alternative is methylated spirits, which apparently is more effective, but I've yet to try myself. Goobertown hobbies did a comparison video in his scientific testing way with some interesting results.
I am still using the same bottle of alcohol from 2 years ago it is solid black in colour now but still does the job perfectly save dem hobbie dollas brother 🎉 Also to get it back in the bottle i bought some plastic tube to make a Syphon and use a big syringe to get the flow started👌
iso and a jewalry cleaner breaks up the paints. i only have a small cleaner myself but you can get much larger machines for more money but they clean models with iso flawlessly. sure it might take one or two sessions but models come out as bare plastic more often than not. but again if there's any paint left its just stains than actual paint. can just prime over them with no problems. however using a machine for too long does warm up the iso and can cause the glue to seperate parts. not much of an issue the cage inside stops parts sinking to the bottom of the machines.
Last message sorry for spamming. I just really appreciate this video. I found a video by Wham Bam Systems on filtering the alcohol. The metallics should settle out. I'm going to try filtering it through coffee filters. Thanks again.
Tbh I’ve just left it a bit dirty and it still works perfectly, doesn’t need to look good, just needs to work 🙂 Don’t worry about spamming, glad you enjoyed the video 😂
We have brown Dettol in South Africa. I've used to strip minis before. And I don't recommend it. Beside the smell while working, it also lingers on the models forever.
@@LizardofDoom This am true! I'm planning to strip some minis soon and will definitely be using Iso, so thanks for this video. Did you eventually put on nitrile gloves? Apparently they're the best...
Never able to get ALL the primer off with alcohol, doesn't matter the color or brand of the primer. It get's enough of it off that the fine details aren't gummed up so this is my usual method. I just never thought of recycling the alcohol like the villain in License to Kill.
i actually ran into a worst case scenerio where someone primes there whole space marine army in latex wall primer.... i learned through alot of trial and error 100% acetone mixed with 90% works best
never done an oil change, have yee? hold the jug east west whilst pouring, instead of north south, and she wont glug at all. good vid, thanks for the infos!
Did you ever find of a way to strip the spray paint? I used an army painter spray primer on one of my models and it didn't turn out well (it has a texture to it). I tried stripping it with isopropyl alcohol, an oven degreaser and ethanol, but to no avail. These other methods work with normal paints, but the acrylic spray paints seem to not get stripped.
I’ve done some further research and it’s the solvents in rattle cans that are the problem. They chemically bond to the mini. I’ve had that same issue with army painter primer, I suggest colour forge as an alternative. 🙂
So I have been back into painting for about 2 months now. Already has loads of IPA for my glass vases 👀😂 I've let minis sit in IPA for DAYS at a time with no issues, a toothbrush and maybe some various diameter pip cleaners and you'll get in moat places without breaking up the model
just an FYI... Iso weakens the glue joints so they can be easily pulled apart, and i'm guessing the metallic was leadbelcher spray, I'm having issues removing the spray coat off my assault marines
Good to know! Yeah it was leadbelcher, I think it just stained the actual plastic though because there’s no loss of detail and it’s been no problem to go over 🙂
Iso is pretty effective against super glue. With polystyrene glue it is more that the two pieces get welded rather than glue, which is what makes it harder to break apart, especially on big bits with big contact points. Though if you have used the thin cement like tamiya extra thin, the weld is likely quite small. 😊
Great video, I was a bit afraid of using it but I guess I'm not anymore. I'm jus wondering what will happen to glue when I throw my figures into this. Some are glued with Contacta Professional and some with just a superglue.
The older glues will become a bit more brittle so get ready to glue a few things back on that weren't glued on that well to begin with; but it's not too bad.
![BRASIL vs. URUGUAY [1-1] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-hWBAuxF1eY/mqdefault.jpg)
Useful video. Appreciated. Shame about the high horse brigade in the comments section. Don't see them going out of their way to make a video on doing this stuff.
Well said 😎
Citadel sprays (and Vallejo, etc) contain an organic solvent that eats into the mini to make the paint stick. My advice is to scrub the paint off, then spray over the remaining paint. It will not be noticeable.
I found that to be true, the remaining metallic was so thin on the model that it was totally unnoticeable when sprayed over!
i've just stripped paint of a test wing for my Karl franz/ free guild general kit. and was wondering why there was a slight texture to the plastic and it no longer had the shine. i've googled alot and after randomly wathing this video for any tips for getting the last bits of paint off this comment was exactly what i was looking for. Thank you gumlass1
Is that why there’s little bubbles in my primer coat? Or did just fuck that up
@@tristansimmons510 no. Bubbles are something different. Usually too much humidity when spraying, or the temperature is too low.
@@Gumlass1 ok that would make sense I live in a humid area
whats really important to know:
IPA doesnt really damage plastic or metal, but resin starts to get really soft after about 30min
I had the misfortune of experiencing that on old leman russ forgeworld turrets, where the smaller pieces can now be bent and its no longer feeling "firm"
Good knowledge
@@LizardofDoom if you are lucky and the resin didn't absorb much of the IPA you can try to put it in sunlight / UV light and "dry" the resin
But it's not a guarantee.
For me it worked slightly on the Russ turret, but the difference is still noticeable compared to a good one, it's not much mainly because they are a solid block of resin, but I guess thinner pieces may run into trouble
However, there is a third method that AFAIK doesn't affect Resin; Brake fluid (NOT BRAKE CLEANER)
That stuff may be toxic if you drink it, and can't be disposed in the drain, but it works really good to strip paint from even resin, however it also smells really bad.
thanks a ton for the info. Infortunately by the time I read this, I had already ruined a 30€ character T__T
never had a problem with IPA and Resin. After all, IPA is the go to cleaning agent for rising printed models
@@peterhiggins3329 rinsing is ok. Soaking is not. I've found you can do it in 20 minute increments without issues. For tougher stuff on resin, I use AK or GSW paint remover. Both work great, albeit very expensively.
Your frugality warmed my cheap Dutch heart
Coffe filters work brill for filtering it 😊
Hey pro tip. Bottles with the filler orientated on the edge are designed to be poured while holding it sideways. It gives the liquid an air gap and keeps a nice laminar flow from the liquid. Washer fluid bottles, antifreeze, bleach, and apparently giant bottles of isopropyl alcohol - hold them long ways, then pour.
if i had read your comment i would not have had to type my own
I'm 38 and work with my hands and I never knew this... 🤦♂️😂 Thank you.
My recommendation for pouring the isopropyl alcohol back in is a funnel and coffee filter an when pouring with a jug pour from the side or with the opening opposite what your pouring into, never spilt engine oil this way
I use isopropyl alcohol to strip paint off of toys that I want to paint for my ttrpgs. Those kinds of paint wind up needing to sit for a couple days to loosen up enough.
I find it helps if the alcohol is warmer, too.
May or may not be able to assist in future large-container-pouring, huzzah for unsolicited advice!
If you pour from one of the larger flat surfaces and start at a nice gentle angle, the liquid within won’t be gurgling for continual intake since it won’t have as much volume above the neck of the bottle. Learned that the fun way growing up with rigs that devoured oil. Deffo go for that funnel too to get the useable contents back into the original container!
Good advice! I think I was too excited to make the video and see how it worked and didn’t plan as much as I should of 😅
I don’t blame ya! Getting a big revamp project going is always a blast!
hey dude! top tip for pouring from those 5 litre bottles is turn them on their side when you pour, this way it allows the air to escape and stops that knarly chugging that splashes everywhere!
thanks for the vid
Next time while pouring, flip the can 180 degrees so the opening is on top. This will cause the fluid to not splash out as much!
rotating just 90 also works
To answer your question about the orange paint flakes, I think it's because (as you said) the paint was many thin layers that you patiently allowed to dry completely before the next application. So it was probably easier for the IPA to get behind the edge of the orange paint than to pass through all those consistent layers.
I use a combo of IPA and Methylated spirits to strip plastic and metal models (meths will ruin a lot of resins).
Give them a couple of short (hour or so) soaks in IPA, scrubbing in between, and then leave them in the meths overnight for the particularly difficult bits.
My biggest recommendation for working with stripped models is if you own an airbrush, prime them with that and not rattlecans, as you'll get a thinner, smoother finish which makes it even harder to tell that they were ever stripped!
Quick tip for pouring jugs. If you turn that big boi of ISO on its side, you'll find it pours out quite nicely, less glugging
iso is the best product for cleaning airbrush. a paintbrush dipped in iso makes a quick eraser tool for dried acryllic too.
Leave the IPA and the cloudy sediment will settle to the bottom after a few hours. Then scoop the clean IPA out and the dregs will evaporate, allowing you to just scrub the tub out.
A bit of a wine and mead maker's trick here. Next time you want to remove any liquid with sediment, you should try using a siphon. This will leave the worst sediment at the bottom and you can still use your sock to get the rest. Do that a second time with a coffee filter for even cleaner filtration.
I spilt some isopropyl alcohol just before watching this which has made this video very immersive, 10/10
@@harlzthedev oh you got that 4D experience 😂
@@LizardofDoom that's for sure
This really helps, I have been looking for a video like this for sometime and has helped with my stripping of plastic minis.
Glad to be of help 🙂
If you are going to be doing a lot of that pouring back and forth, you might want to go to your local DIY store and pick up an inexpensive pair of safety glasses and a funnel.
A funnel would of been a good idea 😂
@@LizardofDoom oh funnel for car maybe?
@@nycoavramski9808 I do now own a funnel 😂
I work with isopropyl alcohol a lot and a respirator with organic filters help a lot with the fumes
I have used both "La's Totally Awesome" and "Purple Power" cleaner (separately) diluted 50/50 with water. Way less toxic than IPA--which I already use lots of in my 3D printer. Great video!
Eyebrow game is strong in that thumbnail
🤨🤨🤨
Sometimes, I absolutely love the timing of ads.
"It took me days to paint the orange. And then games workshop dropped this..."
"50% off pizza at dominos" lol😂
Twenty years ago in our game store we did a experiment where we tested on GW figs several substances on which was best on striping paint. We tested break fluid, gasoline, ISOPROPYL, Pine-sol, paint stripper. and several others. After a month the owner won Pine Sol. It was cheap, non toxic, non flame-able, smelled pleasenant and worked fast. Now I use Simply Green or La Faboulus!!!
A funnel and coffee filter will work better than a sock👍
Nice video, thanks.
You can get fluid transfer pumps for under £10 and up, depending on how easy you want to make the job.
I own a funnel now after this palaver 😂
This was really helpful! Bought a bunch of mixed Space Marines second hand that I want to repurpose as Deathwatch so thanks for taking the time to do this 😊
Thank you mate I’m glad it was useful 🙂
Thank you for the video! I’m gonna use IPA to strip some marines I bought!
Some suggestions as I deal with solvents like IPA everyday.
1) pour slowly to avoid the “glug” and keep from splashing everywhere.
2) use a funnel and coffee filters to strain as you pour back into your jug, the coffee filters dry fast and you can use them 2-3 times before they get too gunked up
3) ventilate your space, wear eye protection and chemical resistant gloves. Solvents are toxic as hell
4) dispose of that sludge at a hazardous waste disposal site. Solvents are toxic and it’s bad to flush it down the drain. Solvents are toxic as hell
i do now own a funnel after this fiasco 😂
7:39 was satisfying, just how it peeled off, top tier vid, Also half way to 500 subs!!!!, just shows how great your vids are when almost half of your viewers are subbed! Well done 🎉🎉🎉
Gonna try and do this to my T'au army to freshen them up! They were my first and are... quite tragic compared to my modern stuff
Primer is tricky to get off. The normal colour is easy, it just goobs off, as seen, but primer.... No matter the colour. Especially in the nooks... Like removing glue between two parts.
Pro tip for reusing your IPA, invest in a big funnel, and attach some form of filtering material to the bottom, makes it a faster and less messy process.
i had to work on a set of miniatures that the ex owner was more than liberal with his application of contrast paints. that took a bit of work to get out when i used IPA but it was way more efficient than other methods i used in the past.
I just started painting on my first set of models. My paint wont stick to the primer. Realized I had a primer / paint combo. This video is a good help to fix the mistake.
Glad to be of help 🙂
For future reference, if full turn bottles like that on their side when you start tipping.
when you're pouring out of big 5l jugs like that, pour it sideways on or upside down from how you're doing it there. Way more control and less glugging splashing.
Wow! Man, I really like your style of video! Fun, interesting and useful!
Thank you 🤟❤️
if you want to properly clean the isopropyl you'll want to run it through a bunch of cat litter and coffee filters, that will clean out all the junk in it
Amazing, that's a great tip!
First video if your channel I watched, helpful and also has me absolutely dying 😂❤ much love
You can leave your plastic minis for more than a week in PA, no problem. To get rid of the primer (leadbelcher included), leave it for 3 days mini so you don't need to spend too long scrubbing the bastard with a toothbrush or a trade paintbrush. For filtering further used, get a pack of paper coffee filters the metallic pigments will get caught.
1:46 Gotta catch this!! It wins super hard.
2:12 is where good stuff starts.
my go to back in the day was dot-3 brake fluid, but the dollar store where i am has big bottles of 91% rubbing alcohol, might give this approach a try for stripping some space marine scouts i got off ebay. alcohol ought to be easier to clean up after at least.
in the UK, go to home bargains/b&m etc etc and jet a bottle of the yellow spray stuff called 'elbow Grease' dunk your minis in and the paint just liquifies and washes back off, agitate with a tooth brush and repeat a soak. seems to be endlessly reusable, just a funky colour now. its £1.50 a litre..
That's a useful shout, will have to pop to home bargains and give it a try. Combine with a ultra sonic cleaner and probably even more effective.
@@bionicgeekgrrl I would imagine so, although I haven't tried that out. It's brilliant stuff for removing paint.
To filter, try cutting the bottom off a 2 liter bottle, lay part of an old cotton tshirt around the inside, secure the ends around the side of the bottle, then use it as a funnel into the jug
Next time you pour it flip it so the nozzle is at the top, it will flow smoother
My go-to stuff has always been Wilko paint and varnish stripper, which worked like a dream on plastics, but obviously that's no longer an option so I'm here doing some research. In my experience, spray paint is always far more difficult to get off than brushed acrylics, regardless of what you're using (I used to use Nitromors, which works great for metal models but will reduce plastics to sludge and can also burn your skin if it's on you too long). Tip for the future; if you pour from the bottle sideways it's easier to keep some airflow going in as the liquid comes out. This will eliminate the sloshing and prevent it from splashing everywhere. 🙂
in the UK Biostrip is the same formulation as Wilko stripper
That reminds me on Chinese eating ASMR videos, when they cook lobsters and crabs and stuff. xD
Back in the day I used to hoover up miniatures with 50 layers of paint up off ebay for cheap. Then soak them overnight in Dettol (had to be the original not pine scented) and scrub off with a toothbrush. Gloves were a must or you lost the top 10 layers of skin off your hands.
I'm a Battletech player, and I do my mechs orange. I can 100% confirm that it's a pain. Mixing white into the orange for the first coat helps a lot.
Brown Dettol works good as long as your models don't have spray primer on, the paint will just slide off quite easily, but that might only he viable for smaller models that are hand primed.
Most of my army was quite easy to remove the paint from with this method, but things I'd spray primed, especial with a lot of surface area like my rhino, were quite time consuming.
Brown Dettol works because it contains isopropyl alcohol. There’s much less soaking time needed if you use straight iso and it becomes less gooey. 🙂
@LizardofDoom oh? Then I was mislead by the people I've spoken to before, they made out like dettol was some magical substance
So my models smell of pine cleaner for nothing lmao
@@spook9155 I quite like the smell of Dettol 😂
Thanks for the video, I’m about to try save some models I failed miserably to paint white, funnily enough a similar sort of situation to you, white/yellow/orange really did suck.
Just a note bro when pouring hold on the side stops the glugging works well when refilling the screen wash too 😂
Free awesome weathering from the metallics! Feature!
Looks like an acceptable method!
Just be careful with the iso as it is highly combustible, especially the vapours you can't see. As you say, good ventilation is a very good idea. It works well, but you just have to treat it like any potentially dangerous chemicals with care. Obviously storage away from pets and children as it of course would be very harmful for them. It is an irritant too, so gloves are good.
I know it probably sounds a bit obvious, but probably worth including warnings for safety in videos just to cover yourself.
It is fantastic with metal models btw. Obviously no use for resin.
An alternative is methylated spirits, which apparently is more effective, but I've yet to try myself. Goobertown hobbies did a comparison video in his scientific testing way with some interesting results.
Helpful and humorous!
Nice video brother. I'm about to attempt this myself so here I am. Strangely entertaining so gonna check out your other stuff. Cheers
Thank you mate 😂
Dont use a scalpel u willl scratch into the plastic use a wooden toothpick work perfect.
It's my scraping blade, very blunt :)
@@LizardofDoom 😎👍
I am still using the same bottle of alcohol from 2 years ago it is solid black in colour now but still does the job perfectly save dem hobbie dollas brother 🎉 Also to get it back in the bottle i bought some plastic tube to make a Syphon and use a big syringe to get the flow started👌
I’m still using this batch of alcohol now, currently has some space marines sat in it 🙂
in future, a funnel and coffee filter paper is the best way to filter
that's the smart way, I used the Max way :L
This technik really work ? WoW
When your pour them big ol' jugs, pour with the flat side facing down, you won't surge as bad and splash it everywhere xD
Very honest video
I’d rather be real than make sterile prefect tutorials 🙂
Very nice video! Helps a lot. Subbed.
This is both painful and hilarious to watch.
it was painful to film 😂
@@LizardofDoom It was the snapping of the bits off. Made me wince.
@@jimiarundell to be fair only one bit slightly broke but was fixable
Great video Max. I need to strip a Dark Vengeance Hellbrute and this method should do the job nicely. Thank you )O(
@@Chimer24-qs5wo glad to be of help! 🙂
@@LizardofDoom Worked like a charm, thanks again 👍
Pouring the second stage of filtration through a paper coffee filter would remove the metal flakes
And make you feel like the villain in License to Kill.
iso and a jewalry cleaner breaks up the paints. i only have a small cleaner myself but you can get much larger machines for more money but they clean models with iso flawlessly. sure it might take one or two sessions but models come out as bare plastic more often than not. but again if there's any paint left its just stains than actual paint. can just prime over them with no problems.
however using a machine for too long does warm up the iso and can cause the glue to seperate parts. not much of an issue the cage inside stops parts sinking to the bottom of the machines.
Last message sorry for spamming. I just really appreciate this video. I found a video by Wham Bam Systems on filtering the alcohol. The metallics should settle out. I'm going to try filtering it through coffee filters. Thanks again.
Tbh I’ve just left it a bit dirty and it still works perfectly, doesn’t need to look good, just needs to work 🙂
Don’t worry about spamming, glad you enjoyed the video 😂
useful video, thanks a lot!
You’re very welcome 😄
Commit commit commit!!!! LOVE IT
1:14 I feel your pain man
This was amazingly helpful...Thank you.
No worries mate thank you, glad I could help 😁
We have brown Dettol in South Africa. I've used to strip minis before. And I don't recommend it. Beside the smell while working, it also lingers on the models forever.
i quite like the smell to be honest, its the sticky gunk it turns paint in to i dislike
@@LizardofDoom This am true! I'm planning to strip some minis soon and will definitely be using Iso, so thanks for this video. Did you eventually put on nitrile gloves? Apparently they're the best...
@@johnd1758 yeah I did, the bits where I wasn’t careful dried my my skin out a bit
I would use dettol to strip paint off plastic when i used to collect warhammer.
If you pour sideways the liquid wont glug out! also can pierce a hole on one side to get a more laminar flow
THe best thing weirdly enough is Dettol. The ordinary straight antiseptic fluid. Works better than Nitromores; spirits; alcohols;.
@@chazwyman the active ingredient in dettol that strips paint is isopropyl alcohol
Never able to get ALL the primer off with alcohol, doesn't matter the color or brand of the primer. It get's enough of it off that the fine details aren't gummed up so this is my usual method. I just never thought of recycling the alcohol like the villain in License to Kill.
i have an idea maybe use another box same as your but with an hole containind an funnel ? maybe it's can be brillant?
i actually ran into a worst case scenerio where someone primes there whole space marine army in latex wall primer.... i learned through alot of trial and error 100% acetone mixed with 90% works best
Oof that is unfortunate 😂
@@LizardofDoom i actually cleaned them all off and primed them black, now just wanting to trade them
never done an oil change, have yee? hold the jug east west whilst pouring, instead of north south, and she wont glug at all. good vid, thanks for the infos!
i wonder if it primer on it before the orange paint
bro is handling the miniature like its lego lol
Hahaha hope that was a clean sock lol 😂
There’s a reason I bombarded it with pure alcohol 😂
FYI you poured it out with the jug the wrong way, have the opening at the top when pouring prevents glug glugging splash.
I think you may have just changed my life
@@Buggritt lol
Great Video! Thanks!
No worries my guy, thank you for watching 🙂
Did you ever find of a way to strip the spray paint? I used an army painter spray primer on one of my models and it didn't turn out well (it has a texture to it). I tried stripping it with isopropyl alcohol, an oven degreaser and ethanol, but to no avail. These other methods work with normal paints, but the acrylic spray paints seem to not get stripped.
I’ve done some further research and it’s the solvents in rattle cans that are the problem. They chemically bond to the mini. I’ve had that same issue with army painter primer, I suggest colour forge as an alternative. 🙂
if you poor it -with the can on its side , it will not glug and splash
I poured a just wrong a year and a half ago and I'm still getting told off in the comments 😂
ps pour the bottle side ways to reduce the splash:)
Subbed
Does it only work with acrylic based? How about with lacquer based?
So I have been back into painting for about 2 months now. Already has loads of IPA for my glass vases 👀😂
I've let minis sit in IPA for DAYS at a time with no issues, a toothbrush and maybe some various diameter pip cleaners and you'll get in moat places without breaking up the model
just an FYI... Iso weakens the glue joints so they can be easily pulled apart, and i'm guessing the metallic was leadbelcher spray, I'm having issues removing the spray coat off my assault marines
Good to know! Yeah it was leadbelcher, I think it just stained the actual plastic though because there’s no loss of detail and it’s been no problem to go over 🙂
Iso is pretty effective against super glue. With polystyrene glue it is more that the two pieces get welded rather than glue, which is what makes it harder to break apart, especially on big bits with big contact points. Though if you have used the thin cement like tamiya extra thin, the weld is likely quite small. 😊
Note to self. Use a container with a tap to reclaim liquid.
isopropyl or lacker thinner or acetone?
How many % is the alcohol? would 70% be feasible?
@@khairulazmi6327 yeah that’d work but the higher the better 🙂
this removes primer too?
@@Artydfx it usually does but it depends on the primer
Can I also do this with minis I sprayed varnish on? :(
You should be able to🙂
@@LizardofDoom thx Bro 😎 ❤️
Great video, I was a bit afraid of using it but I guess I'm not anymore. I'm jus wondering what will happen to glue when I throw my figures into this.
Some are glued with Contacta Professional and some with just a superglue.
I’m not sure if it will effect it, I think the worst thing that could happen is they just come apart and need re gluing.
The older glues will become a bit more brittle so get ready to glue a few things back on that weren't glued on that well to begin with; but it's not too bad.