Trad Climbing on Epinephrine - Pitch 4, the first chimney pitch
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- Опубликовано: 26 янв 2017
- Chimney begins at 14:05
If it isn't obvious, I had never climbed a chimney before so why not jump on a string of 5.9's. Luckily a group passed us just before beginning the pitch and I had a chance to grab some beta, such as which side to keep your back to. It wasn't obvious to myself and later I may have messed this up.
I ended the video a little early but at a certain point (about 10 feet above where the video ends), you can traverse left 15 - 20 feet to a set of chains.
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Love watching the gear placement.. and all the smart ass comments are great as well.
Definitely keep the gear placement. I like to edit out long rests, but I always leave gear placements, that is half the fun of trad climbing.
Michael Parker get back to work
Keep the gear placement! Makes me feel like climbing it myself. ;)
Me too. My hand keeps reaching for my chalk bag. The hard breathing, gear selection and placement, as well as his looking for hand holds and foot placements are giving me flashbacks.
Keep them coming, man! I'm psyched!
thanks for posting. Looks like a fun day
Awesome vid man! As a new trad climber I appreciate videos like these. This seems like an awesome climb and has been added to my list. Keep sending!
DangerDunn while some of the videos out there are fantastic, and have a great deal to learn, what I'd say about this particular video is; this is a great video of what not to do. Especially when it comes to the gear placement. Had he whipped on nearly any of his pieces, he'd have likely been seriously injured or worse, from ripping gear out or busting the tiny flakes he put them behind. It's not granite, you gotta place good gear on things like this, or yer gonna die.
@@kellenedmonds963 nah you're full of it. There were a few questionable placements but that's the nature of it
Cool.. thanks! I've been wanting a good run through of this route :)
So much fun to watch a classic so close up like this... thanks for sharing. It's definitely on my tic list. Hope you don't mind a bit of constructive criticism... use more passive pro, bro! Especially in that beautiful sandstone! Much more secure in a fall - you don't want to go all Michaelangelo if you take a whipper... especially on those shallow placements. Thanks again for sharing!
That's look super fun!
wow what a weird pitch! Great job!
"well, it'll slow me down" love the casual remarks at dodgy gear placement, I certainly wouldn't trust them but what the fuck do i know
Such beautiful rock
Chimney is always good psycho test on the route. And everytime it looks still terrible as for the first time :D. For me it is more mental challenge then physical.
I really enjoyed the video and wish to climb this route someday! The placement of cams between thin flakes makes me worry though...I think it's advised to use nuts instead of cams in those places if possible, since the cams will double the force being applied to the rock if the climber falls.
That flake is so scary!
"Fuck a hand jam" lol
keep the gear placements!
"it'll slow me down"
How tall are you if you don’t mind me asking
Not a hater here but at 0:06 your partner looks to be clipped into only one bolt (with another right there) ? Don't assume those chimneys are teh burl. If you think so, beware Yosemite chimneys. :)Thanks for the vids though. Better than most.
19:47 😂
You led the whole climb?
Only technical climbing pitches I didn't lead were 3 and 8.
Thats strong, nice one
Why u use only One Rope?
It's pretty common in the USA to use a single instead of half or double ropes.
Is that american granite?
(never been there) :)
Nah, it's mostly Aztec Sandstone.
Thanx!
It never ceases to amaze me as to how addicted to cams people are today.
I saw a stopper placement virtually at every pro set in this pitch.
I guess if I had your money, I'd burn mine.
Cut out all the seconds you spend fumbling with gear selection and placement. Publish the action. But keep the burps Rollin!
Yeah, I don't understand the burps but I guess thats my thing!
I'd be interested to hear others take on the editing in the videos. I'm willing to do as you suggest but it has been the staple of the channel to keep the videos as raw as possible. I'm willing to change that philosophy though at some point, I suppose I should get a poll on it.
FirstPersonBeta I like seeing the gear placement because I like to follow along mentally, I like to take a look at the crack, and take a guess what gear it takes, and i enjoy seeing the process of finding the right piece.
FirstPersonBeta.. have to say I like to see the whole process.. there are enough highly polished vids.. not as relatable for someone nervous enough to feel they need good beta for the route
I love the editing you have now, please keep everything in!! Watching pro placement is super interesting!
I agree. I've only done a few trad climbs and am getting more into it - seeing what's going on in your head when placing gear is great and helps me figure out "here, not there" or "why this placement and not that one." Too many videos just jump to the climbing - if people want that they can watch bouldering or sport climbs