Trad Climbing on Epinephrine - Pitch 6, 3rd chimney
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- What a mess! French'd the first 20 feet, spent 5 minutes fumbling with a poor gear placement, belt came undone mid pitch...
Smiles all the way.
In hindsight, I think had I started the chimney further out towards the starting set of chains, it would have been significantly easier for me. Downside being there's little to no way to protect a fall. I suppose that's chimney climbing though...
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so, here's the beta for this pitch. when you are at the belay station, climbers right there is a bolt kinda in the middle of nowhere, use your chimney technique and go above said bolt. WAY easier than the offwidth, its a bit airy but the moves are solid. In this video the bolt would be behind and above the belayer, you can kinda see it at 1:56.
Love your videos seth, keep up the good work.
Finds a splitter #2 crack at the end of a pitch. Laybacks and face climbs next to it.
I appreciate your honesty as to how you tackled this.
Its fun watching you climb... it makes me feel like I m the climber -- I envision how I would do my technique and placements compared with yours, the exposure even gets my heart rate going.
The offwidth at 4:45 was by far the hardest part of the chimneys. My belayer and I had the same discussion about being turned around, but I did it in the orientation in the video (right side in). The way I did it: a tenuous right hand jam in the crack with the blue cam, then a VERY careful chimney traverse out left. One of my feet slipped but I recovered. Was then able to reach forward to a crimp, switch to a backstep, then stand up and out of the chimney.
You're usually such a fluid, strong. climber, its good to see you get your ass kicked once in a while.
Don't think I've ever seen you hangdog on a piece until the chimney on this climb.
Chimney's & offwidths are hard! Such a grunt for all of us.
Your pieces were bomber, that route is epic, hope to be good enough to do it one day. Thanks.
Since you extend all your draws out it might just be easier to do over the shoulder with one carabiner. It saves weight and is much quicker in most cases.
mat jackson It takes two hands to place those type of draws half the time.
@@Iamnikolopez what about a rabbit runner?
I prefer single biner on a sling over the shoulder as well. opens up a lot of room on the harness too.
Epic view and what a journey!
full on climbing!
6:50 -- this is a case where the v. common double 8mm rope used in the UK for multi pitch is ideal to minimise rope drag and danger of pieces of gear lifting out. A left and right rope prevents the zig-zag.
Plus with double ropes you can rappel twice as far.
5.9 is such an unpredictable grade (HVS equivalent in the UK).
The hardest and most inelegant chimneys, and similar "big" full body heave rock structures were done when 5.9 was the top grade. But sometimes they are still as perplexing today as they were when they first done ! Only succumb to buckets of sweat.
Really surprises me you don't use hand jams & finger locks much much more. Obviously you are very strong and climbing well below your grade here; I guess prefer to crimp sideways or step out to face, but suspect you are climbing it a harder way than it has to be just because you can and prefer crimps to old fashioned jamming!
Hi I would like to know if you can do a video of climbing the wall with only using nuts &hexes please
dogged like a boss
If you had to french free the first 20ft, how is it 5.9? You're a solid 5.11 trad climber it seemed like - must be tricky
This guy is a way better climber than me in general but yeah there are a couple bomber fingerlocks in the crack around where he was placing the pieces that he was pulling on. You can use them to get your feet high and then arms up to pull out of the crack. It's suuuper hard if you don't see those holds (which I didn't for like the first 5 minutes of flailing before I "got" it).
I was wondering if I was to far into the chimney or if I was turned around the wrong way. At the time, it felt too constricted to engage chimney tactics but from the sounds of what you're saying, I just had the wrong execution.
I found this part the crux of the route. I also used the locks and just beasted my way through but it was ugly. My second went further out and chimneyed more which seemed better but would have been a lot scarier on lead.
You chimney above the belay station, you don't climb the back of the crack like in the video. Theres a bolt above the belay station, go that way. Its a bit airy but better than the offwidth.
@@thecruxismI don’t think there is a bolt on that pitch tho, the next pitch is the one with the two bolts on it. I think this is the second half of the “second chimney pitch” actually and in the video they had used the intermediate belay
I know everybody climbs a little differently and there's always 2 climbs going on. I'm the type of climber that really likes to express the climb with the movement of my feet. Personally I think I would be using the shit out of both walls. Climbing is a dance on the wall. Climb safe.
How many anchors are bolted? I remember reading something about the first six pitches being bolted but now I can’t find it.
Hunter Miller When we did it (2016), pitches 2 - 10 had fixed anchors. Pitch 11 had a single Ugly bolt (despite the guide saying otherwise). That may have changed by now.
I love your channel because I learn a lot about gear placement. I have noticed that my gear placement has greatly improved after watching your videos! Thanks!
Real hero
This lead reminds me of my struggles. Congratulations on the climb. As a safety feature, turn the carabineer gate away from the rock on the pro so that it does not accidental open against any protrusion in the rock.
Nice
The chimneys are not popular climbs, I mean modern times (and climbers) ,
and it's very visible. Most of chimneys are not high rated, and rarely are so nice like this one . I wonder how many ch- s FPB has done ....I'm afraid not so much . Anyway
I like your go pro videos , keep on .
People just don't seem to like having more than a fist stuck in a crack these days with few exceptions. I love everything in the wide including bigger chimneys like these. Really want to do this climb one day just for the chimneys.
Pulling on gear?
I don't get what you were trying to do at that anchor ? Why not clipping yourself and belaying your partner ?
Could also save weight, therefore stamina by not placing gear every 3 feet.
Could also save on grunting by staying further out. It's airier climbing but easier and more efficient...
Sad