How Hot is Your Forge? | This is How You Find Out
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- I'll be showing in this video a simple and cheap way to measure and monitor the temperature in your forge!
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18.5'' Thermocouple - amzn.to/32HHlyE
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Anyone have any tips on lowering my forge’s temperature? Any burner sizing changes or ideas? 🙌
Did the muffle pipe help? I cant seem to bring temp down either so I feel your pain
@@xxstr8jacketxx So I did find that I had way more control when using the muffle pipe! However, my heat still got well above my target... I'm in the process of constructing a new forced air burner that I hope will give me more control overall. I'll throw it up on the TUBE once I have it completed! fingers crossed.
@@RedBeardOps that's awesome dave evader knives sent me your way.i am going to get one of those pids and rod to see how far I'm off.i have everything way down and my 3/16 blades turn orange to yellow in under a minute
@@xxstr8jacketxx I'm going to have to thank him! You know it can't hurt to see what temp you're at... Knowledge is power for sure. Heat treating much above 1550 is no good from my understanding, so it's worth investigating.
@@RedBeardOps I will be making a oven one of these days but I think my forge is to small for 2 burners I only use one and it still blast to much heat I'm going to make a muffler today and see what happends I may have to make my forge bigger this would be great for forge welding but not for HT at the moment
J you were obviously raised by very well mannered guardians. As I really appreciate it please refer to me from now on as Chip or man or dude 😂😂😂😂. I know I am old and you have shown me much respect. At ease from now on please. I know if it’s habitual you probably can’t help it. I respect you as well young fella. You teach me so much you couldn’t believe. We have such a wonderful family of knife makers so willing to teach. So contrary to me growing up in the trades where if ya taught someone younger than you they’ll take your job. I really enjoy the family atmosphere I’ve been exposed to in the knife making family. You especially are appreciated for your willingness to help all. You need a medal. I’d give you the most prestigious medal of all but I’m not in a position to give medals. I seriously would but hope ya have a sense of humor to understand that I can’t. I hope ya understand how much I respect ya and what you do. I seriously am very grateful for your content as I am for Dave at Evader knives. I can’t imagine where I would be with my knife making whiteout y’all.
Chip! Thanks for the kind words again. I'll take this post as my medal! I'm learning along this knife-making journey along with you. Like you said it's amazing how awesome the knife-making community is! So munch knowledge and many people willing to teach it! I've learned a ton from the guys at bladeforums.com for sure. Cheers.
Put on a gas by-pass with needle valve ,solenoid will turn of the main heat and buy pass set correctly will keep a constant temperature easy!
When I built my propane forge many years ago, I used a ball valve to control airflow, which worked great. Though I had my "T" faced the other way with only 1 opening & I capped, drilled & tapped one side. The 2 openings look a lot more efficient... Love the idea of a PID on a forge... Great video, hope all is well, take it easy...
This is how bad my videos use to be hahaha.... ruclips.net/video/iRmjoALe-lU/видео.html
Dave Evader Knives thanks for the info Dave! I have a gate valve on mine to control the air flow... not sure if I can get it to run any cooler. I’m thinking I may be able to downsize the piping and build in a flame holder to run at lower temps. Not sure.. may have to do some tinkering
@@RedBeardOps I put a link to one of my old video to show it, it probably won't go through with a link. You don't need to approve it, it's pretty bad, but shows what i mean
@@evaderknives Cool deal, Thanks! Looks like it worked pretty good
Dave I’m gonna have to check out your older video. Is there a music warning ⚠️ attachment. Haha
New to forge stuff and knives...this was interesting!
Heck yeah man! Hope you enjoy the videos!
thanks for the vid. I started using my forge to do some other work, i.e. enameling and glass fusing, so needed to have a better idea of the temperature. Will be getting a thermocouple in place for that. As a side note, for the enameling and glass fusing I began using a section of square tubing for protection, because direct impingement of flame is not good. Now I know the term for it - "muffle pipe".
Glad it helped!
Thank you for this video! I am getting into CU-mai and this mod will come in handy to ensure I dont overheat the billet! Thank you
Good luck with your cu-mai!
Possibly you could try to add a speed control (harbor freight sells one) to slow down your fan motor?
Not a bad idea Bill. I was able to get the fan running super slow with the baffle and the Gate Valve. It's working out fairly well!
Thank you sir , easy one ide like 2 try
It was super easy! Pretty low cost of entry too. I really thought my temps would have been lower. I may need to build a smaller burner! Thanks for watching!
thanks
Hi! Your PID has a relay out terminal, for sure. Hook up a gas solenoid that will turn on and off the gas to keep a pre defined temperature. That will work just like an electric kiln. Obviously, not as precise, but as far as lowering the temperature it will do the job IMO. Great work btw ,😊👍
Good idea, cheers sir!
@@RedBeardOps just make sure that your set temperature is always above a point that will let the gas self ignite. Because if you set a too low temperature, the solenoid might trigger and the gas does not ignite and you have a problem.or use a pilot flame / piezo igniter of some sort
You're right - effectively Pulse Width Modulation - great idea
It would seem that the main benefit of a thermocouple is to determine at what flow rate does your forge achieve welding heat of say (for mild steel) 2400 degrees F. After finding this flow rate I could just use the flow rate to set my forge to a desired temp provided nothing else changes from one heat cycle to another.
Yeah, I think that could be handy. You can also set up a solenoid on the gas that can be controlled by a PID controller (hooked up to the thermocouple). Then the system would provide gas as needed to achieve a set temp. Very cool stuff.
Ok I made a temporary ( insulated muffle pipe from plaster of Paris 12 inch long 5 inch in diameter with 3/4 inch walls reinforced with minnow trap wire , I put a cracked blade inside and it just wouldn’t heat up , I then drilled approximately 100;1/4 inch holes thru the sides, top ,and end . I put a piece of flat steel inside muffle pipe and one piece outside . The piece outside heated up to about 1700 f quickly but inside muffle was much slower and I was able to turn forge down low and hold the steel inside the muffle at just above non magnet for as long as I wanted. When I removed the steel it would go to magnetic in about 10/seconds. It may be possible to make a perforated muffle from fire brick and put my thermocouple up thru the bottom and inside the muffle and control heat where the blade is . I removed my 3/4 x 1 inch bell reducer from my burner pipe outlet and made. 3/4 x1 inch fork y by cutting and welding , thus modifying a 3/4 x I inch tee . Therefore I have 2 blue flames that strattel the center of my forge . Also I drilled four 1/4 inch holes in the 3/4 nipple just 1/2 inch below my intake tee with the mig tip . It makes a whistle sound drawing air but allows me to turn down forge much lower . It may be possible to drill several holes and make a sliding choke over the 3/4 nipple by using a 1 inch copper solder coupling. I would like to heat treat some 440 C but my understanding is that you have to control the temp . Yeah I could buy new equipment but when I checked it’s not available or must be built on order
Good info Randy! Thanks for posting it
@@RedBeardOps 👍
Might get a theomcouple (I can't spell)
I'm liking your videos very informative,
Thanks for showing and teaching me,Sir
Thanks for watching! Glad you like em!
You need like 10,000subs
Hey man, really appreciate that! Maybe one day! We'll see
Love your vids😍
SCIENCE ETC thank you very much! I’ll try and keep them coming!
I was read watching decarb on knives on blade forums, and I came across an old thread about this! I hear treat my knives in a forge, with a Venturi burner, and have been getting really thick layers of decarb. I have had my forge WAY to hot (2000 degrees ish) so if I turn it down, and use a piece of 2 inch angle iron as a way to block the direct flame of the burner, will the decarb be thin enough for me to just use a wire wheel to get through? Wil it be gone completely?
I don't think you could get 100% no de-carb on 1080, 1075, etc. Always expect to have to do some grinding post HT. I found when using 1084 it seems I get less de-carb then when using 1075. But it could of just been the batches I got.
I don't know but it would seem if you increased fuel pressure, and lowered the air pressure a rich flame would be less hot that a lean.
This could be true. Only issue with the lean flame is scale. I took the long route here and built a heat treat-ing-oven... lol
Excellent video as always. Makes my forge look like a caveman built it with my weed burning torch stuck in hole in the side of my forge. When burning since mine is open front and back it looks and feels like a jet engine. I can barely get close enough to get my knife in without getting cooked myself. I have an oven on the way but I would like to make some improvements to my forge so I can do some knife forging in the future. Thanks for the tips.
E.T. Preppin thanks for the praise! Heck yours may get closer to 1500 than mine! I’m going to have to downsize my burner... 🙌
I’m going to have to put a thermocouple in my forge. Im curious what it gets up to. With 1084 it takes about 5 minutes to get to non magnetic. Seems to fast. Im sure I’m using a lot of propane when running!!!
@@e.t.preppin7084 In a perfect world I'd like to be able to regulate my fuel gas down enough to have the forge hover @ 1500 F... They use it like a HT oven. Going to have to think on it for sure!
I just put the front back on my forge. It’s an old paint pot for spraying. Wish I could send you a picture. I should be able to turn my heat down and conserve propane but my temperature will probably increase. Maybe if you leave your front and back of your forge more open it won’t get as hot. IDK. I’ve done no research on the matter and am really new to all this. I’m into so much at one time I cannot learn it all quickly enough. If I were younger I would devote more time to every aspect of knife making. However I have to pay my bills and doing what I’m best at brings in maximum $$$. That’s life. You keep doing what ya do. You learn for me and I just try and do what you do. I brag about you to Dave with Evader knives. Your a perfectionist. I strive in construction to start every project with perfection in mind. As a job progresses you cheat a little here and there and you end up with a presentable final product. Start out cutting corners and you end up with garbage!!!
@@e.t.preppin7084 Thanks for the kind words sir! Opening the front door of my forge may well work. I defiantly have a lot to think about on the matter to make some adjustments. Thanks for the kudos!
Totally suggest using Salt, salt melts at 1474 degrees. if it melts your about there
Good tip!
Does running the forge so lean not pump out massive amounts of carbon monoxide?
I'm generally dialing down both the air and gas, so the mix isn't necessarily lean. Just very light. That being said I don't know he answer to your question.
Did you ever get it to run cooler? If so , how?
Not really. Keeping the doors opened helped. I have become accustomed to the temperature and it is not an issue with heat treating. I was originally aiming for oven like consistency and I don't think that is possible with this set up. You'd have to put a PID controller on your gas supply.
Those is what I've been trying to figure out for about a year also. I was thinking of keeping the gas supply low and when the temp stabilizes, I would know how to repeat it. Of course I it's all proven to be way harder in real life than in my head.
@@jarodmorris611 Man, I can get it to run fairly cool... I guess to "do it right" you could have a PID controller on a solenoid to supply the gas. I haven't yet gone down this road. Thank goodness you don't need to soak 1084...
@@RedBeardOps - I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with an electric oven. I just had an idea though...what about a propane burner inside the electric HT oven to help it get to temp WAY faster wile the coils are heating up too, then shut off the propane and allow the electric to maintain temp. Crazy idea??
@@jarodmorris611 I wouldn't say "crazy", but I bet it could case your HT oven to get "dirtier" faster and maybe damage the coils faster too.
Man you didnt use a ssr to run the pid?
Hey Fernando, I'd need an electric solenoid for that operation to console the gas. Yes that could work for sure.
@@RedBeardOps Right now I am connecting the rex c100> ssr> solenoid. But for some reason I have no SSR output. I think some configuration in the PID that I can't solve. shit
Instead of a steel muffle pipe I wonder how it would work with a muffle pipe made from fire brick with holes drilled into it ?
Worth a try Rnady!
Ice water is a reliable 33° F
Oxygen equals more heat. Lower air flow and raise gas feed.
👍
Pilot went out on my water heater - pulled thermocouple out to replace it... suddenly thought I might get another one to use in my forge... suddenly here I am
lol 😂