Pretty sure your rear arms are on backwards the motor is not supposed to sit that far back over the rear wheels , it’s supposed to be in front of the rear wheel and the rear shocks should be on the back of the car not in the middle of the chassis
Its an alternative set up. Rear pod mount can be reversed. Makes it a better drifter. Then ypu have to reverse the arms to keep active toe. Can do this with atomic dz3 and with dwx3. I tried both set ups this worked better on my track. Ill put a note in description
im still trying to build up the courage to assemble mine. Looks great! thanks for all the up close shots, ill have to refer back while im putting it together
I have been considering on buying one and this video just made me want it even more. Thanks for your videos, keep it up. Hope to see more about TG racing drifting in the future!
…the backend is mounted reversed…the dampers is supposed to go in the back…the motor in front forward rear axle…and the motor can rotate 90 degrees from up to horisontal…to fit more models…
So I just picked one of these up as im converting a 1/24 model to RC, and it was advertised as 90-127mm wheelbase chassis.. but I cannot for the life of me get this car anywhere near 120mm.. Is there another adjustment I'm missing? I have the chassis extended all the way based on the four screws in the middle but it's not even close.
@@GarageMiniRCUK I'm going to hopefully have this assembled tomorrow, how do you do it?? Is there a piece I'm missing or something? Looking at the listing on Amazon there's another T shaped part that mine didn't come with and I'm thinking that's the chassis extension I need..
It seems that way at present. Often its hard to tell woth new cars. I alwys say for long term look at older bramds like atomic and gl racing. They both been making mini rc for a while so can depend on parts. That said most parts are interchangable. I like this car for ease of set up. Im doing a new video sbout onisiki kodama.
My assumptions, please correct me if I'm wrong : 1. Kit is too low, not enough play for suspension, other impact, there isn't much weight shifting/transfer going on in this kit 2. Front chamber too much, makes it so aggresive, quicker changes direction, but disadvantages for long wide drift 3. Outer front tires ackerman is so small, remember, drifting in RWD rear tires pushing forwards not sideways, so while turning outer side of front wheel needs enough angle to make curve or parabolic actions 4. Weight too much in rear, makes car easily spin like pendulum 5. Too much toe angle in rear tires ? same as point no. 3, rear tires pushing forwards, little bit turning, one side rear tires already pointing into a corner, I assume that's why real drift car not much done setting toe in for rear tires 6. Rear motor stuck with car body (trunk) ? 7. Tires not flat correct ? I assume it has less contact to track, less contact means less grip
all your points pretty much correct but , adjustable and correctable. this car is aimed at a beginner in my opinion . For more in depth tuning other cars have more going for them but also cost more.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Looks from the appearence it's look like for pro's 😁 By the way, nice, interesting and educating video in terms of RC hobby of course 🥰😁🙏
i absolutely agree but it really depends on the combo. some brushless ESCs are more finicky and cog with some motors more than others. Brushed is almost always smooth
Pretty sure your rear arms are on backwards the motor is not supposed to sit that far back over the rear wheels , it’s supposed to be in front of the rear wheel and the rear shocks should be on the back of the car not in the middle of the chassis
Its an alternative set up. Rear pod mount can be reversed. Makes it a better drifter. Then ypu have to reverse the arms to keep active toe. Can do this with atomic dz3 and with dwx3. I tried both set ups this worked better on my track. Ill put a note in description
Ps thats direct from the manufacturer. I spoke with him about the reverse set up 😉
im still trying to build up the courage to assemble mine. Looks great! thanks for all the up close shots, ill have to refer back while im putting it together
I have been considering on buying one and this video just made me want it even more. Thanks for your videos, keep it up. Hope to see more about TG racing drifting in the future!
I have more coming
Seems like a good beginner car, I'm on the lookout for something that fits mini-z bodies.
…the backend is mounted reversed…the dampers is supposed to go in the back…the motor in front forward rear axle…and the motor can rotate 90 degrees from up to horisontal…to fit more models…
Nice car sir. Thank you for the content.
hello! love your videos! it would be cool if you could make a video how to build it and make a commentary on things you encountered across the way :D
Will do thanks
Hello got a XRX DPA because of your videos but just bought this TG racing chassis and would love to see a video of your setup and tips and tricks ?
Working on one
Thanks so much for the detailed look at the car! Did you get around to adjusting it for 90mm?
Doing a whole video from 90mm to 120mm
Hello. Which servo do I need for this car? And battery? I plan to purchase one. 🤙🏻
When next vedio out ? Want see this car drift
It is amazing how many manufacturers there are in the 1/241/28!
Yes ....trying to catch up and review haha
@@GarageMiniRCUK cool videos. Enjoy the drift!
So I just picked one of these up as im converting a 1/24 model to RC, and it was advertised as 90-127mm wheelbase chassis.. but I cannot for the life of me get this car anywhere near 120mm.. Is there another adjustment I'm missing? I have the chassis extended all the way based on the four screws in the middle but it's not even close.
Im doing mine to 120mm tomorrow ill post an update
@@GarageMiniRCUK I'm going to hopefully have this assembled tomorrow, how do you do it?? Is there a piece I'm missing or something? Looking at the listing on Amazon there's another T shaped part that mine didn't come with and I'm thinking that's the chassis extension I need..
@@GarageMiniRCUK
What servo are you running as well? I ordered a miuzei 12g and it doesn't fit on my chassis lol
Hello. I want to start with rc drifting. Is this a good car to start with ? And how about replacement parts ? Are they easy to replace ?
It seems that way at present. Often its hard to tell woth new cars. I alwys say for long term look at older bramds like atomic and gl racing. They both been making mini rc for a while so can depend on parts. That said most parts are interchangable. I like this car for ease of set up. Im doing a new video sbout onisiki kodama.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Okay. Thanks for the answer.
My assumptions, please correct me if I'm wrong :
1. Kit is too low, not enough play for suspension, other impact, there isn't much weight shifting/transfer going on in this kit
2. Front chamber too much, makes it so aggresive, quicker changes direction, but disadvantages for long wide drift
3. Outer front tires ackerman is so small, remember, drifting in RWD rear tires pushing forwards not sideways, so while turning outer side of front wheel needs enough angle to make curve or parabolic actions
4. Weight too much in rear, makes car easily spin like pendulum
5. Too much toe angle in rear tires ? same as point no. 3, rear tires pushing forwards, little bit turning, one side rear tires already pointing into a corner, I assume that's why real drift car not much done setting toe in for rear tires
6. Rear motor stuck with car body (trunk) ?
7. Tires not flat correct ? I assume it has less contact to track, less contact means less grip
all your points pretty much correct but , adjustable and correctable. this car is aimed at a beginner in my opinion . For more in depth tuning other cars have more going for them but also cost more.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Looks from the appearence it's look like for pro's 😁
By the way, nice, interesting and educating video in terms of RC hobby of course 🥰😁🙏
I guess brashless but sensorless motor is wors than brushed motor. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I have not used a brushed motor in years. I prefer brushless. Even if no sensor.
i absolutely agree but it really depends on the combo. some brushless ESCs are more finicky and cog with some motors more than others. Brushed is almost always smooth
Is this good for 1/24 beginer? Or a good brand?
Good for begginer , brand is new seems ok. I alwys look at how long making rc cars
Where to buy this?
Hello. Which mini z bodies fit on this chassis?
Most will fit avoid very barrow bodies . You will have to use zero offset wheels at front if you are using a smaller body.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Ok… Thanks for the quick reply 🤙🏻
Nice looking chassis good video
How long to build chassis roughly
About 4 hours i think . Was smooth.
Is it possible to install Ball Diff ?
I think so .ill have a look on spec sheet.
Did you get the Info ?
Ball Diff yes or no ?
Maybe from Kyosho ?
All cls