Thank you for sharing your skill, It’s nice if you mention what solder you are using? 60/40 or 50/50 and what brand is recommended please. Thank you in advance.
Great video, glad you mention the temp, you melt the lead, and thats not good. FYI, I 've always used Olic Acid for my flux, basically it's rendered animal fat. Does not work as well on copper or zinc, but great for lead.
Question - why to solder the second side right away? I am working on a project that may take me days to do one side. small thing but I am just learning and may take me some time. Thank you for the info.
Could you give some examples of more intricate joining, for instance where 3 points of lead meet? Also some advanced lead cuts with round and pointed pieces. Thank you so much. Judy in Chicago
Im doing a piece with h came and the solder is beading. I’m assuming the h came is old. I tried rubbing it was still wool amd still have problems. Is there anything else you can add to the came to clean it? Love your videos. Learn so much. Thanks from Vancouver Island, Canada
Yes, iron temp is very critical for lead work. It's a true nightmare to have a hot iron melt into the canes a?!! My iron has a thermal controller within the tip so it can not over heat (what a blessing)
Remove old solder by melting it. Generous fluxing will help, also try blowing liquid solder off. Then take to the general surface carefully with a scraper and scrap on the dirty surface. When you see your scratchings come up to a nice shiny silver colour you'll know it's clean. Solder will not bond to or cover ANY dirty surface so just don't drive yourself to nuts trying to.
My lead on joints are melting. I only touch the joint with the solder on. It's a weller 80 can't turn it down there's no temp setting. I see you even hold your iron on a few seconds. Any ideas please
Ahhhhh I just hate it when the lead cane melts before my eyes! If you suspect it's blistering hot, have some scrap lead cane handy and do a "test run" on that before putting it on "the precious" The 'old school' irons are not thermal controlled so you MUST be diligent with it. My best suggestion,..... buy an appropriate new one like the one here ruclips.net/video/dqANQmNMDFw/видео.html
This is another amazing video, and one that I have been waiting for. What kind of solder do you use for this, 50/50? Very good looking soldering joins :-) Greetings from Sweden!
I used 60/40 solder on this panel. It has a lower melt point and thus helps to avoid melting the lead canes. If your iron does not have a thermal control on it of some sort, your iron will likely over heat. It pays to test this for this danger by doing a soldering test on a piece of scrap lead cane before committing yourself to soldering the panel..
give it a fluxing, use the iron to get it melted, then slide the iron to the side. Most of the solder will stay with the iron tip. It is best if you can avoid these mistakes.... more control / attention to task at hand has better outcomes. But don't sweat it Den, a little misplaced solder is no biggy after all... :-)
You are one of the best doing this, to many make ugly soldering.
Thank you for sharing your skill, It’s nice if you mention what solder you are using? 60/40 or 50/50 and what brand is recommended please. Thank you in advance.
Greetings from Mississippi. I love every one of your videos. You are amazing. Thanks so much for sharing your expertise!
Great video, glad you mention the temp, you melt the lead, and thats not good. FYI, I 've always used Olic Acid for my flux, basically it's rendered animal fat. Does not work as well on copper or zinc, but great for lead.
I really love the artistry. Very inspiring, thank you.
...and there was me thinking you had an assistant with the brush. I'm definitely going to try this as soon as! ;)
Question - why to solder the second side right away? I am working on a project that may take me days to do one side. small thing but I am just learning and may take me some time. Thank you for the info.
Could you give some examples of more intricate joining, for instance where 3 points of lead meet? Also some advanced lead cuts with round and pointed pieces. Thank you so much. Judy in Chicago
I learned a lot from this! Thank you!!
Can I solder a window in place upright? I have many windows needing repair and do not want to remove them.
Im doing a piece with h came and the solder is beading. I’m assuming the h came is old. I tried rubbing it was still wool amd still have problems. Is there anything else you can add to the came to clean it? Love your videos. Learn so much. Thanks from Vancouver Island, Canada
scrape it clean / shiny with a hobby knife where you want the solder to bond.
Which tip (nozzle) do you use in your Weller?
Great video. When repairing an existing panel, do you have a way to darken the new solder to make it match the older joints? Thanks in advance.
patina
Great video!! Thanks much, very informative. What temp do you set the iron too.?
Yes, iron temp is very critical for lead work. It's a true nightmare to have a hot iron melt into the canes a?!!
My iron has a thermal controller within the tip so it can not over heat (what a blessing)
@@karalnz Is it the Weller Magnastat?
What is an ideal iron temperature?
How do you clean if soldering an old window. A repair of a crakced lead. Clean with some acid first?
Remove old solder by melting it. Generous fluxing will help, also try blowing liquid solder off. Then take to the general surface carefully with a scraper and scrap on the dirty surface. When you see your scratchings come up to a nice shiny silver colour you'll know it's clean. Solder will not bond to or cover ANY dirty surface so just don't drive yourself to nuts trying to.
@@karalnz thanks. im also talking about the lead mounting it self. So far im sanding it with metal whool.
My lead on joints are melting. I only touch the joint with the solder on. It's a weller 80 can't turn it down there's no temp setting. I see you even hold your iron on a few seconds. Any ideas please
There´s a special Weller for soldering leaded glass, I´m using this one which is fine: Weller Profikit 100
How do you control your soldering iron temperature? Mine seems to only hit one heat that that is blasting it out.. at times ive even melted the lead
Ahhhhh I just hate it when the lead cane melts before my eyes!
If you suspect it's blistering hot, have some scrap lead cane handy and do a "test run" on that before putting it on "the precious"
The 'old school' irons are not thermal controlled so you MUST be diligent with it.
My best suggestion,..... buy an appropriate new one like the one here ruclips.net/video/dqANQmNMDFw/видео.html
This is another amazing video, and one that I have been waiting for. What kind of solder do you use for this, 50/50? Very good looking soldering joins :-)
Greetings from Sweden!
I used 60/40 solder on this panel. It has a lower melt point and thus helps to avoid melting the lead canes.
If your iron does not have a thermal control on it of some sort, your iron will likely over heat. It pays to test this for this danger by doing a soldering test on a piece of scrap lead cane before committing yourself to soldering the panel..
How do you remove a drop so solder which falls on the came in the wrong spot?
give it a fluxing, use the iron to get it melted, then slide the iron to the side. Most of the solder will stay with the iron tip.
It is best if you can avoid these mistakes.... more control / attention to task at hand has better outcomes.
But don't sweat it Den, a little misplaced solder is no biggy after all... :-)