Re: Gloves. Don't use polymer based gloves; if the hot solder or iron gets on them they will melt and stick to your skin. Use leather and/or 100% cotton gloves. TIG welding gloves are good for this, because they are made to handle molten steel getting on them, yet are flexible enough to handle delicate work.
I used to use the chemical patina solution afterwards...gave my leaded joints kind of a blackish-bronze "Aged" appearance...nice work, I haven't worked in glass for well over thirty years, I i guess...
I don’t even know how to make stained glass yet, but I’ve soldered a ton doing plumbing, and I suggest that you use gloves while adding the foil and soldering as so the gloves keep oils from hands messing up the process
It's a little tricky with the adhesive side sticking to the gloves and them pulling / ripping. Haven't had really any trouble as long as I'm not too sweaty 🤣
Probably basic tools like a glass cutter, grozers,growers, scissors, marker you can get away with. Scrap glass should be enough to make this panel Almost forgot, solder, soldering iron, Flux, Flux brush applicator, copper foil
honestly with lead free especially too much flux can be wiped with baking soda paste. but. for sure use it otherwise you might burn the solder. im new to glass, but been an electronics technician soldering circuit boards etc.
@Mr.StainedGlass is there a way I can share a photo of my first piece? I say "first piece" but it's literally just the first thing I've ever done- a bunch of scraps soldered together. Did it while watching this video :)
When you flip it over to solder the backside can the heat conduct through the foil and mess up the solder on the first side, or worse weaken the panel so it separates? Thanks so much!
It can locally melt right in that spot, but the rest of the panel will be in tact and thus won't make everything loose. You'll start heat cracking glass before melting the entire opposite side so it's not really something to worry too much about.
I tend to have a heavy hand with the heat. Most of what I do is window panes. If you use higher melting point solider on the first side this will help. Offhand I don’t remember if it is 50/50 that is higher than 60/40. The 67/33 melts and solidifies at the same very narrow temperature. It hardens almost instantly which can be useful. I also think it has the lowest melting point.
This may be a stupid question but is that regular paper underneath when you start soldering? I'm curious if it matters what material is underneath the project.
Do you have this pattern to print out and what are the dimensions of the overall patern and the individual sections inside. I would like to try stained glass and this seems like a good beginner project. Thanks.
Seems like horizontally it heats the solder up more since the surface area of the iron tip that is touching the solder is greater. This way you can make more molten solder allowing it to flow and smooth out evenly
@@Mr.StainedGlass Thanks. I had seen a video where the artist said that vertical makes a rounder bead and horiz removes an overage of lead. Just comparing notes. I am gonna give both techniques a try today. Cheers!
I have found it to be pretty cost friendly for supplies. I suggest that you start with scrape glass and make small pieces. You can get scrap glass in many sizes, pretty cheap. Stained glass is a process and does take some time. One store just gave me a box full of a scrap glass free.
Would be nice to explain why you need to over lap foil a 1/4”. I noticed the glass was clean after cutting, might be easier to clean glass before cutting . With the wood forms you don’t need to tack solder. You can just start in a corner and work your way across the piece.
I suggest overlapping foil so it will not come up when soldering and there will be no void between foil edges. Works for me pretty good and many others Thanks for all your comments!
I'm new to stained glass, i want to do a frame with my poodle but do not know how to draw the pattern so it won't break and also it will look like the dog lol any tips please
I recommend searching on Google images "stained glass poodle" and seeing how others doing it. You can print out a picture of the poodle, trace lines for glass cuts where the subject will look best while trying to make the pieces not too sharp, pointy, or have weak points in curves Good luck!
When cutting/scoring the glass, I noticed you always pushed the cut never pulled it, did that make any major difference of is that just how you personally do it? Also you mentioned always makeing sure the cutter a well oiled, but didn't say with what in specific oil is recommended to use?
I normally push so I can see the line in the pattern underneath. If you pull towards you I find it's harder to see as your hand will obstruct your vision. We have a few stsinrd glass oils for sale on our site, all of them will do. I mostly prefer the CJs because the bottle dispenses oil easily into the cutter instead of needing an eye dropper. You can watch our cutting tutorial where we showcase all of those products and a lot more glass cutting related tools
can I contact you by email? I enjoyed your video! thank you! however I have a question, you have a ventilation thingy removing the fumes., where is it venting to? how did you make it?
@@Mr.StainedGlass I know, we would love to partner with you! I see you sell Dragon tools. Humbly, we have a better product, and it's prettier, so, its a fan favorite. And, I believe we would be at similar price points. We just started selling into some very well known brick and mortar stained glass studios and suppliers here in the states. In fact, I wouldn't be able to do anything immediately because I am having trouble keeping up with current demand, but I would love to start a conversation with you. I love what you are doing here!
With all the flux you are using, it doesn’t seem to be spitting and sputtering. Why is that.? I know someone that cuts his bristles down on his brush since, “You don’t want to bath your foil in flux.” 🥴 And it saves on flux.
I notice if it starts spitting/sputtering,normally it's on the flip side with the Flux caught between the initially soldered side and the newly soldered side. I try to solder to not trap any Flux and have a way for it to easily exit if possible.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Inherited a bunch of glass and some olllld tools. Ive been itching to try it out. This was the most detailed tutorial I've seen. Thank you so much.
Happy to help Liz!
Re: Gloves. Don't use polymer based gloves; if the hot solder or iron gets on them they will melt and stick to your skin. Use leather and/or 100% cotton gloves. TIG welding gloves are good for this, because they are made to handle molten steel getting on them, yet are flexible enough to handle delicate work.
Good idea!
So far, I've watched 4 or 5 videos, but it's this video that gives me confidence. I'm so excited about starting my first stained glass project.
Happy to help!
watching this one again. well done.
Thank you!
I've never known anything about how stained glass is made. This is a thorough and clear introduction. Thanks!
Anytime!
I used to use the chemical patina solution afterwards...gave my leaded joints kind of a blackish-bronze "Aged" appearance...nice work, I haven't worked in glass for well over thirty years, I i guess...
Try it out again!
I was looking for some mixed technics for change an old cheap piece of furniture. You inspired me and I think I'll give it a try! Ty!🙏
Good luck!
I too like to start with a joint.
You're crazy! 🤪
I don’t even know how to make stained glass yet, but I’ve soldered a ton doing plumbing, and I suggest that you use gloves while adding the foil and soldering as so the gloves keep oils from hands messing up the process
It's a little tricky with the adhesive side sticking to the gloves and them pulling / ripping. Haven't had really any trouble as long as I'm not too sweaty 🤣
Fantastic! Absolutely fantastic. Just learnt a Shiz load😁 Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I was hoping it would be that much fun. I just hope I have the patience for it. Any recommendations for the full works in terms of supplies?
Probably basic tools like a glass cutter, grozers,growers, scissors, marker you can get away with. Scrap glass should be enough to make this panel
Almost forgot, solder, soldering iron, Flux, Flux brush applicator, copper foil
How do you know when you need to reapply flux? Great video! Super succinct and helpful.
When the solder doesn't seem to be sticking well. You can just run the Flux brush over the hot solder and it seems to melt into all the right places
honestly with lead free especially too much flux can be wiped with baking soda paste. but. for sure use it otherwise you might burn the solder. im new to glass, but been an electronics technician soldering circuit boards etc.
Found this super handy thanks :)
No problem!
@Mr.StainedGlass is there a way I can share a photo of my first piece? I say "first piece" but it's literally just the first thing I've ever done- a bunch of scraps soldered together. Did it while watching this video :)
@@Chuckieravenyou should check out the r/stainedglass sub reddit it's a great place to share projects and I'm online time to time too
@@Mr.StainedGlass brilliant thanks!!
cool video for beginners. we love it!
Thank you!
When you flip it over to solder the backside can the heat conduct through the foil and mess up the solder on the first side, or worse weaken the panel so it separates? Thanks so much!
It can locally melt right in that spot, but the rest of the panel will be in tact and thus won't make everything loose. You'll start heat cracking glass before melting the entire opposite side so it's not really something to worry too much about.
I tend to have a heavy hand with the heat.
Most of what I do is window panes.
If you use higher melting point solider on the first side this will help. Offhand I don’t remember if it is 50/50 that is higher than 60/40. The 67/33 melts and solidifies at the same very narrow temperature. It hardens almost instantly which can be useful. I also think it has the lowest melting point.
Great video! What advantage is there to using lead free solder? Thanks.
Lead is toxic!
This may be a stupid question but is that regular paper underneath when you start soldering? I'm curious if it matters what material is underneath the project.
Yep. The glass will Crack long before there's enough heat to combust the paper
If you set the iron straight down onto the paper, it'll burn 🤣
Great video, thanks! Just wondering if you'd have a link to the file for the tape alignment tool? Would very much like to 3d print one myself
Hi, not sure about print file but you can purchase here cavalliniglass.com/pages/search-results-page?q=foiler
Wonderful. Would be interested in purchasing your products
What's your email and address please?
We sell on our website cavalliniglass.com
Do you have this pattern to print out and what are the dimensions of the overall patern and the individual sections inside.
I would like to try stained glass and this seems like a good beginner project.
Thanks.
No but you can easily make this pattern. It's just straight lines
Hello! Thank you for the video! What did you pour into your grinder?
No problem, water!
Would your copper foil jig work with most shapes of glass?
Yes! You can check out our copper foiling guide shows me doing a few different shapes.
23:04 1st time watching, fun to watch.TFS! I subscribed btw lol
Thank you! I appreciate it!
If I'm not ready to go all in with a grinder, can the peices be sanded by hand while I figure things out?
You would need a paid of grozer pliers. Edges will be a bit rough. Technically you can sand them.
@@Mr.StainedGlass Thank you for the feedback!
Where did you get the widget used for holding copper foil?
Where did you get vacuum sucker for fumes?
Thanks!
Hi
We sell the foiler you can get it here
cavalliniglass.com/pages/search-results-page?q=Foiler
The fume extractor I got from Amazon
Wow just spent $75.00 on table top foiling tool! Does this tool come in other sizes for various sizes of foil?
Do you notice a difference in the bead when you hold the iron tip perpindicular rather than horiz?
Seems like horizontally it heats the solder up more since the surface area of the iron tip that is touching the solder is greater. This way you can make more molten solder allowing it to flow and smooth out evenly
@@Mr.StainedGlass Thanks. I had seen a video where the artist said that vertical makes a rounder bead and horiz removes an overage of lead. Just comparing notes. I am gonna give both techniques a try today. Cheers!
Where do you get your fume remover?
I got it from amazon!
@@Mr.StainedGlasslink for a fume remover?
Great video; thank you!
Happy to help!
Thank you for this video
Happy to help
I have found it to be pretty cost friendly for supplies. I suggest that you start with scrape glass and make small pieces. You can get scrap glass in many sizes, pretty cheap. Stained glass is a process and does take some time. One store just gave me a box full of a scrap glass free.
That's a great tip!
Would be nice to explain why you need to over lap foil a 1/4”. I noticed the glass was clean after cutting, might be easier to clean glass before cutting .
With the wood forms you don’t need to tack solder. You can just start in a corner and work your way across the piece.
I suggest overlapping foil so it will not come up when soldering and there will be no void between foil edges. Works for me pretty good and many others
Thanks for all your comments!
I'm new to stained glass, i want to do a frame with my poodle but do not know how to draw the pattern so it won't break and also it will look like the dog lol any tips please
I recommend searching on Google images "stained glass poodle" and seeing how others doing it. You can print out a picture of the poodle, trace lines for glass cuts where the subject will look best while trying to make the pieces not too sharp, pointy, or have weak points in curves
Good luck!
When cutting/scoring the glass, I noticed you always pushed the cut never pulled it, did that make any major difference of is that just how you personally do it? Also you mentioned always makeing sure the cutter a well oiled, but didn't say with what in specific oil is recommended to use?
I normally push so I can see the line in the pattern underneath. If you pull towards you I find it's harder to see as your hand will obstruct your vision. We have a few stsinrd glass oils for sale on our site, all of them will do. I mostly prefer the CJs because the bottle dispenses oil easily into the cutter instead of needing an eye dropper. You can watch our cutting tutorial where we showcase all of those products and a lot more glass cutting related tools
How thick is the stain? like the diameter
Stained glass is ~1/8" thick
To neutralize the acidity of the flux, try using baking soda diluted in water.
Thank you 😀
Jug of water for grazing or detergent!
Interesting idea!
Ty water
i like ya cut g
Thanks! 😀
can I contact you by email? I enjoyed your video! thank you! however I have a question, you have a ventilation thingy removing the fumes., where is it venting to? how did you make it?
I got it from Amazon here: a.co/d/hvWOKDl
Why not use alcohol to clean
Alcohol works awesome!
My strong and odd desire to just solder things is spiking...
Give it a shot!
We sell high quality stained glass hand tools. We would love to send you a kit for use in your videos!
Thanks, we also sell everything 😅
@@Mr.StainedGlass I know, we would love to partner with you! I see you sell Dragon tools. Humbly, we have a better product, and it's prettier, so, its a fan favorite. And, I believe we would be at similar price points. We just started selling into some very well known brick and mortar stained glass studios and suppliers here in the states. In fact, I wouldn't be able to do anything immediately because I am having trouble keeping up with current demand, but I would love to start a conversation with you. I love what you are doing here!
With all the flux you are using, it doesn’t seem to be spitting and sputtering. Why is that.?
I know someone that cuts his bristles down on his brush since, “You don’t want to bath your foil in flux.” 🥴
And it saves on flux.
I notice if it starts spitting/sputtering,normally it's on the flip side with the Flux caught between the initially soldered side and the newly soldered side.
I try to solder to not trap any Flux and have a way for it to easily exit if possible.