Doing a video on tooling mistakes and proper care of tool. Like how to sharpen a Beveler or stitch Groover. Order of operations is another good topic. I always forget to burnish my edges before sealing the leather.
Thank you so much! Your videos encouraged me to try and create my first piece or armor (just some bracers, nothing too special though) since everything I bought won't fit me. I'm trying to get a complete set of armor ready for upcoming LARP-events. All thanks to you.
its not too often that pauldrons are attached for convenience of getting in and out of the armor, normally you would put the pauldrons on, then the chest slip over it covering the strapping that holds the pauldrons (some times vice versa).
@@MattWeber I understand that, but the pauldron video.says they can be attached to the chest armor via straps, which seems simple.enough, but I'd just like to see how they amend the original design for that
@@jpowell3976 I usually just attach mine at the top of the pauldron. So instead of having 2 straps go across the chest, I make 2 short straps like 2-3 inches long and punch 3 holes in a triangle pattern on both sides. i then punch the holes on Pauldron and Chest pieces. I will generally attach the strap under the pauldron but on top of the Chest piece where your trapezius is. Ive also attached buckles under the pauldron and made an adjustable strap on the chest so it can be removed.
I attach my pauldrons using a 6" buckled loop riveted on the front shoulder strap of the breastplate, just forward of the top buckle. The pauldron has a strap attached to the second lame from the top with a steel loop in the upper end. the strap on mine runs downward about a foot, so I can connect the upper arm to the shoulder with a heel bar buckle. This lets my shoulders carry the arm weight and stops the arm from sliding down to my wrist, locking my wrist and elbow from moving. I use this for a LARP combat game.
I am glad to see this kind of thing being offered now. This set is looking amazing. I have purchased all of the current patterns and I am looking forward to trying my hand at this. I am anxious to see the rest of the set. It would be great to see a larger pair of shoulder pauldrons to match when the rest of the set is all finished. Please keep up the good work and thank you.
Always love your vids. I use each one for inspiration for each new piece that I make. For now it's a hobby, but man it feels awesome to create things that look so epic.
@@Princearmory yes I saw the page update and was thankfully able to get your patterns but it could have totally been me and I just didn't see something 🤣🤣🤣 sounds like something I would do but either way it works for me now!!! Thank you so much for such beautiful patterns I feel blessed to have these gorgeous patterns in my hands 😭🖤🙏
You make this look so unbelievably effortless!! Please, keep going! I'm going to buy something from Tandy to help out and I bought your templates already lol this is next!
So, I am currently working on this piece. I was wondering why the seams on the thigh pieces go the opposite direction of all the other pieces? It seems like rain would just run right in... IDK, its driving me crazy tho 🤪
So, I'm considering attempting this suit of armour in its entirety, and I have a few questions. 1) Could you suggest an easiest-to-hardest order of building for these pieces? 2) Is there something that could be used in place of rivets that's less permanent? I'm wanting to make a mockup in leather, without dye or carving, and then put it together. My very artistic better half would probably be interested in drawing a pattern on it once she sees how it fits, moves, and looks in person, so I'm wondering if it's possible to build it temporarily, and then take it apart to dye and detail it. Thanks for your help. Once I get things sorted out I'll post some info on my build experience and finished product.
I'm doing the same thing you are and the order i went in is: bracers, spaulders, and now I'm working on the cuirass. You can click the rivets together without pounding them in and they work great for temporary fastening, or brads, or chicago screws could probably work too. the bracers, spaulders and cuirass are the only leathercrafting I've ever done and these videos make it very easy and fun to get a great looking piece of armor for your work.
i did make the helmet, but i am a little bit worried that it will lose its rather niche look (damm i need to practice) by wearing it. so could you please make a video about leather care/maintanece?
Ponle un "kama", rojo con negro con patrón de escamas (scales). Cómo los clones de Star wars, para el trasero, como cota de malla. Cuando lo termines, te lo pruebas el traje completo.
I know the original leather armor they use beeswax to harden it and make it a lot harder to cut through. Ever think about dabbling in that area.....= )
Amazing series! I've been following along while working on a project of my own (it's very motivational!), and always appreciate how you describe what you're doing, along with your music choices. I was wondering if you've ever worked with any sort of leather other than bovine, though, like goat or deer, and how those might differ? Thanks for sharing your work!!
Each different animal's hide has different properties. There are also many different processes used to tan leather each of which leads to different results. The thickness, fiber density, visible grain pattern, and flexibility varies greatly. A huge variety of tanning processes will lead to even further variation from hide to hide. Deer and elk skin tend to be softer, stretchier, and more spongey feeling than cowhide, goat hide, kangaroo hide, etc. Kane toad leather is thin, but very flexible and fairly resilient, so often sees use in high end gloves. Goat and calf skin is thin but still fairly strong so sees frequent use in shoes and handbags. Bison tends to be flexible, thick, but has a very unique pronounced grain structure that can be beautifully featured in certain projects like heavy coats or saddle bags. There is a HUGE long list of animals used for leather and each has their own set of pros and cons that goes with them including cost, availability, workability, etc.
You'll have to use some other form of rivets, leather rivets are too tight for foam and wont allow for a lot of swiveling especially if your straps are also foam.
@@DarkRavenProductions you should watch some of adam savages one day builds, some of them may give you insight on how to approach several crafts... including foam cosplay and props
I tried it myself and it works. For the rivets I made a hole just big enough for a tube i had. Cut the tube length at size and with a tip of a gluegun I heated it to fold it back on itself to create a flat piece that lays against the foam. Did the same on the inside. And I used some hot glue to fill the hole from the tube and get a rivet kind of look.
Agreed that chicago screws are more pricey, but depending on how far you curve the tasset plates, you can get a small amount of articulation out of them that is a subtle thing that most people won't have.
Was it just me or did those red pieces seem brighter than the pieces you attached them to? Almost seemed like a neon arrow say look over here. It was beautiful work. It just seemed much brighter than the other pieces
different finishing techniques and no antique applied to the gorget or tassets. Also no real weathering. Just like the previous tutorials have all been different colors, it's more about showing a variety of possibilities than creating one uniform cohesive set.
Definitely not a silly question. A good rule of thumb is leave things overnight between steps involving liquids that you don't want to mix. 24 hours would be ideal, but if you are using spirit based dyes and/or apply a lighter coat, you may be able to get away with as little as half an hour or so. If you airbrush the dye on, maybe even less time... As is true with most things in leathercraft, test on scrap so you know what gets you the results you are looking for.
Each of the pieces is made and finished a little differently to show off different techniques and finishes. The bracers in the tutorials were green, the spaulder blue and gold. The intent is to show a variety of techniques, finishes, etc more than to create one cohesive set. :D
One of the biggest factors I've found in getting even coverage with dyes is to use more dye. A lot of dyes come very highly saturated, so if you dilute them a bit (as Prince has done in a few of the tutorials) you can be really heavy handed with applying them. That should get you a little better results.
All of the Prince Armory tutorials use vegetable tanned cow hide leather. They are tanned using leaf/bark tannins so that the leather is able to be stamped/carved/shaped the way that it is here. A lot of chrome-tanned leathers (think most couches and jackets and purses) won't take stamping and shaping the same way because the leather is treated differently.
🔥 THIS PATTERN: bit.ly/FantasyTassets
Leather working supplies on the way from the mother - in - law. Been watching since the helmet vid and can’t wait to try my hand at it!
Lucky!
how about some Samurai Armour??
Wow great video man keep on making videos
Please make a short video on how to attach the spaulders to the cuirass please! that would be very helpful
Wow
Doing a video on tooling mistakes and proper care of tool. Like how to sharpen a Beveler or stitch Groover. Order of operations is another good topic. I always forget to burnish my edges before sealing the leather.
Really appreciate the music choices here
That one dislike is a troll!! This piece is awesome!!
Fantastic! Whole kit together looks great!
Thank you so much! Your videos encouraged me to try and create my first piece or armor (just some bracers, nothing too special though) since everything I bought won't fit me. I'm trying to get a complete set of armor ready for upcoming LARP-events. All thanks to you.
I would love to see how to make and attach a lighter weight leather cloak to a breastplate, possibly with or without a hood.
It would be great if you did a video on how to attach the pauldrons to the chest armor.
Yes! I would love to see a video on bringing this all together.
its not too often that pauldrons are attached for convenience of getting in and out of the armor, normally you would put the pauldrons on, then the chest slip over it covering the strapping that holds the pauldrons (some times vice versa).
@@MattWeber I understand that, but the pauldron video.says they can be attached to the chest armor via straps, which seems simple.enough, but I'd just like to see how they amend the original design for that
@@jpowell3976 I usually just attach mine at the top of the pauldron. So instead of having 2 straps go across the chest, I make 2 short straps like 2-3 inches long and punch 3 holes in a triangle pattern on both sides. i then punch the holes on Pauldron and Chest pieces. I will generally attach the strap under the pauldron but on top of the Chest piece where your trapezius is.
Ive also attached buckles under the pauldron and made an adjustable strap on the chest so it can be removed.
I attach my pauldrons using a 6" buckled loop riveted on the front shoulder strap of the breastplate, just forward of the top buckle. The pauldron has a strap attached to the second lame from the top with a steel loop in the upper end. the strap on mine runs downward about a foot, so I can connect the upper arm to the shoulder with a heel bar buckle. This lets my shoulders carry the arm weight and stops the arm from sliding down to my wrist, locking my wrist and elbow from moving. I use this for a LARP combat game.
I am glad to see this kind of thing being offered now. This set is looking amazing. I have purchased all of the current patterns and I am looking forward to trying my hand at this. I am anxious to see the rest of the set. It would be great to see a larger pair of shoulder pauldrons to match when the rest of the set is all finished. Please keep up the good work and thank you.
I re-watch these videos constantly
Always love your vids. I use each one for inspiration for each new piece that I make. For now it's a hobby, but man it feels awesome to create things that look so epic.
Fantastic work.
Thanks for sharing.
Fun!Tass!Tick! 💙💛
...
Flashback from Skyrim.
Cool! You are true Leather Master! 👍🌟🌟🌟
another excellent video!
That was a fast upload!
Great as always! Although, I much prefer the other style of dying.
Thats why I demonstrate multiple options from video to video.
You promised us a video how to distress the leather
Great job !
Greetings from Germany
It looks amazing as always 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 can't wait for the next part
You're informative and thorough and still very creative! I really appreciate your teaching style too. On a side note, even your music is good!
Where can you get the metal ball for shaping?
That really great work but could you try on or put on a dummy to see a better look on it so I can have a better idea for it. THANKS
hola muy bueno video me gustó mucho
I would love to see a video on how you go about creating a pattern to begin with, it seems like one of the most difficult steps
Ewill 343 ruclips.net/video/Cr0f6E2Ix2Q/видео.html there you go
Thanks very helpful
I really hope the buying options are fixed for idaho soon 🙏 I WANT your patterns SO bad haha they are absolutely gorgeous 😍
Thanks for the compliment! The shop feature should be fully functional. We moved to princearmoryacademy.com/.
@@Princearmory yes I saw the page update and was thankfully able to get your patterns but it could have totally been me and I just didn't see something 🤣🤣🤣 sounds like something I would do but either way it works for me now!!! Thank you so much for such beautiful patterns I feel blessed to have these gorgeous patterns in my hands 😭🖤🙏
You make this look so unbelievably effortless!! Please, keep going! I'm going to buy something from Tandy to help out and I bought your templates already lol this is next!
How about doing a series on Warhammer 40 K "Sisters of Battle" armor"?
I'd love to see a list of equipment you use, with links/cost.
So, I am currently working on this piece. I was wondering why the seams on the thigh pieces go the opposite direction of all the other pieces? It seems like rain would just run right in...
IDK, its driving me crazy tho 🤪
So, I'm considering attempting this suit of armour in its entirety, and I have a few questions.
1) Could you suggest an easiest-to-hardest order of building for these pieces?
2) Is there something that could be used in place of rivets that's less permanent? I'm wanting to make a mockup in leather, without dye or carving, and then put it together. My very artistic better half would probably be interested in drawing a pattern on it once she sees how it fits, moves, and looks in person, so I'm wondering if it's possible to build it temporarily, and then take it apart to dye and detail it.
Thanks for your help. Once I get things sorted out I'll post some info on my build experience and finished product.
I'm doing the same thing you are and the order i went in is: bracers, spaulders, and now I'm working on the cuirass. You can click the rivets together without pounding them in and they work great for temporary fastening, or brads, or chicago screws could probably work too. the bracers, spaulders and cuirass are the only leathercrafting I've ever done and these videos make it very easy and fun to get a great looking piece of armor for your work.
i did make the helmet, but i am a little bit worried that it will lose its rather niche look (damm i need to practice) by wearing it. so could you please make a video about leather care/maintanece?
Very impressive, keep doing this!
Your job is wonderful, you want to do it yourself
Ponle un "kama", rojo con negro con patrón de escamas (scales).
Cómo los clones de Star wars, para el trasero, como cota de malla.
Cuando lo termines, te lo pruebas el traje completo.
I know the original leather armor they use beeswax to harden it and make it a lot harder to cut through. Ever think about dabbling in that area.....= )
Nice video. I would like to see anime stuff ir futuristic stuff ir techniques
This guy is like the Clickspring of leather
Is there a way to attach the shoulder piece to the main armor? So it's not only a stand alone?
Amazing series! I've been following along while working on a project of my own (it's very motivational!), and always appreciate how you describe what you're doing, along with your music choices.
I was wondering if you've ever worked with any sort of leather other than bovine, though, like goat or deer, and how those might differ?
Thanks for sharing your work!!
Each different animal's hide has different properties. There are also many different processes used to tan leather each of which leads to different results. The thickness, fiber density, visible grain pattern, and flexibility varies greatly. A huge variety of tanning processes will lead to even further variation from hide to hide. Deer and elk skin tend to be softer, stretchier, and more spongey feeling than cowhide, goat hide, kangaroo hide, etc. Kane toad leather is thin, but very flexible and fairly resilient, so often sees use in high end gloves. Goat and calf skin is thin but still fairly strong so sees frequent use in shoes and handbags. Bison tends to be flexible, thick, but has a very unique pronounced grain structure that can be beautifully featured in certain projects like heavy coats or saddle bags. There is a HUGE long list of animals used for leather and each has their own set of pros and cons that goes with them including cost, availability, workability, etc.
Im wondering if this would work using EVA foam instead of leather
You'll have to use some other form of rivets, leather rivets are too tight for foam and wont allow for a lot of swiveling especially if your straps are also foam.
Lady_ Dragoness thank you
@@DarkRavenProductions you should watch some of adam savages one day builds, some of them may give you insight on how to approach several crafts... including foam cosplay and props
I tried it myself and it works. For the rivets I made a hole just big enough for a tube i had. Cut the tube length at size and with a tip of a gluegun I heated it to fold it back on itself to create a flat piece that lays against the foam. Did the same on the inside. And I used some hot glue to fill the hole from the tube and get a rivet kind of look.
Chicago Screws? If they come that size.
Chicago screws to assemble fixed plates seems a bit excessive, price-wise. I usually use the double cap rivets.
Agreed that chicago screws are more pricey, but depending on how far you curve the tasset plates, you can get a small amount of articulation out of them that is a subtle thing that most people won't have.
Was it just me or did those red pieces seem brighter than the pieces you attached them to? Almost seemed like a neon arrow say look over here. It was beautiful work. It just seemed much brighter than the other pieces
different finishing techniques and no antique applied to the gorget or tassets. Also no real weathering. Just like the previous tutorials have all been different colors, it's more about showing a variety of possibilities than creating one uniform cohesive set.
Are you going to age this as well, to match the main part of the armor?
why wouldn't you attach the tassets to a belt?
This may seem silly.....once you get the stain on how long do you wait till you use the sealer that your using here?
Definitely not a silly question. A good rule of thumb is leave things overnight between steps involving liquids that you don't want to mix. 24 hours would be ideal, but if you are using spirit based dyes and/or apply a lighter coat, you may be able to get away with as little as half an hour or so. If you airbrush the dye on, maybe even less time... As is true with most things in leathercraft, test on scrap so you know what gets you the results you are looking for.
the new parts look very shiny and the red is not aged like the main part. i dont think they look right together
Each of the pieces is made and finished a little differently to show off different techniques and finishes. The bracers in the tutorials were green, the spaulder blue and gold. The intent is to show a variety of techniques, finishes, etc more than to create one cohesive set. :D
i think i need to switch to oil dye. when ever i use the prodye from Tandy, my red always comes out blotchy.
One of the biggest factors I've found in getting even coverage with dyes is to use more dye. A lot of dyes come very highly saturated, so if you dilute them a bit (as Prince has done in a few of the tutorials) you can be really heavy handed with applying them. That should get you a little better results.
sir, please, we need the Plague Doctor mask guide asap, for the sake of preserving safe and healthy community! fight the corona as plague doctor!
How did you get the two scars on the top of your hand? they look perfectly straight, a curious mark.
smurf bite
I swear this is "XboxAhoi" his voice. :D
Sorry, I'm pcmasterrace, not familiar with lowly xbox things.
Armor for dogs!
Wait so is the leather actually from hide or is it faux leather
As real as a good steak.
@@Alagachak Now I want a steak ;-;
All of the Prince Armory tutorials use vegetable tanned cow hide leather. They are tanned using leaf/bark tannins so that the leather is able to be stamped/carved/shaped the way that it is here. A lot of chrome-tanned leathers (think most couches and jackets and purses) won't take stamping and shaping the same way because the leather is treated differently.
@@bjornsworkshop9288 Thank you for the information. I believe I have learned something here