*Sebastian: Thank you for your clear, concise, single-objective presentation. If you're curious, as was I about specified cured hardness, Henkel Teroson PU 8597 Scheibenkleber: Per DIN 53505 method, hardness is Shore 70A after curing for 7 days at 22C, 50%RH. Cure time curve is temperature and humidity. Hot and humid is the process accelerant, cold and dry cures slower. Assuming Hungarian is your native language, kudos to you also for your superb command of English. Egészségére!*
Great demo. Have used 'roof and gutter' on the rear trailing blades on the Aussie Ford falcon sedan like many others have done. Longer the better on curing time. Made me smile when you showed the smoothing job, exactly like mine. Many thanks for this demo video.
This was a very well made video and you seem like a sharp guy. I always appreciate clear instructions, explanations for things, and examples, which you all touched on.
I done this 20 years ago and have also machine urethane in a late to make my own. Only thing to be careful of is going too much on daily driven cars. I fine starting by taping off one side and fill 50% is a good start
Thank you for this video, i did the same for motor mount of my car long time back, whenever there is a gap in any bushing you can do the same for strenthing and will last long period.
I've been doing this for years & it truly works & I haven't replaced a mount in ages. Rubber isn't like it used to be & it's expensive,this is why manufacturers design them with spacings & they're failure point is inevitable so you have to buy replacements. Great job to keep your wheels rolling 👍
Actually they’re designed with spacing to isolate vibrations and allow some flex. Solid rubber transmits more NVH. Priority is to reduce NVH over mount longevity.
If anyone still thinking about this, it works perfectly well in terms of durability and holding your engine im place. There is one disadvantage to it, it will increase vibrstions and noise in your cabin/seering wheel etc. If that doesnt comcern you, go for it.
The toughest and most durable type of caulking rubber I've ever used is 3M 5200. It's rated to use under the waterline in marine applications. You can get it at marine stores or sometimes home depot, etc. It would probably be close to the original rubber used in the mount.
Is it possible to patch a crack in the engine mount??? Because mine only had a crack at the top, so I only applied it to the cracked part. Sorry if my language is bad, because I use Google Translator.
I've done this on 3 different cars in the course of the last 20 years and proper engine RTV, out of a spray can hardens faster and better than window silicone which you need to leave for a week or longer to harden, especially if you used a giant glob of it. The repair is permanent and firmer than standard mounts, so sport mounts for a pocket change worth of silicone.
@@OllarisGarage So far it looks like it's gonna be golden! My outboard motor has 2 mounts that are a typical sleve within a sleve held together by rubber design, the rubber completely broke through in the middle letting the inner sleves pull out, & that replacement part for this motor is unavailable anywhere. So I cut out most of the old rubber & repacked them with the 3M Windo-weld. They look better than new & appear to be holding perfectly. Froze over here so I haven't given a test run yet, but they should be perfect. Thanks again for sharing this! Cheers!
If original material left this is an ok band aid that will last & be similar/same as oem b4 repair.But remember set time based on air cure & when in large thick application may be soft inside weeks months later. SO IF NEED SAME DAY/ INSTANT USE 2 PART POLYURETHANE RESIN=fast set/ a.k.a Liquid rubber 60/soft 75/med& hard 85/ or above. ADD PIGMENT TO COLOUR WHILST MIXING 15MIN USE TIME + SETS IN 30MIN-1HR THROUGH CHEMICAL REACTION SO CHOOSE CONTAINER WISELY AND USE GLOVES & EYE PROTECTION
For 15yers now,to all cars that i hade,i bought new engine and transmission mounts,and to yha model that it eas possible,ive fill them with black silicone,since they was new. It dose make the car seem tighter. Yo only one car one Dacia Logan,witch i filed all the rubber mounts,i hade a vibration over 3000rpm. But on the Mercedes CLK 320 Petrol,on witch i did only the transmission mount,was perfect.
Hey mate- that’s absolutely creative! BUT, I believe that the manufacture made it in a certain way where it moves and has some flexibility. Just imagine when filling it all with that thing, it will barely move and the vibration will move to other components of the vehicle which on the other side will cause a metal to metal tough contact such as the interior axles which then will shorten the life span of them! I believe that we need that flexibility which transfers vibrations gradually! That’s my point of view sir Good luck!
Few years ago a friend used a few thick beads of clear silicone sealant as an anti-vibration damper for the fuel pump of his rally car. Previously the pump had come loose and became unplugged during a stage. The bead was straight out the tube without the long nozzle.
@@atnamesarelame Yes, it lasted for about a year. He then sold the car as it was getting old. ( MK2 Escort ). Initially the pump sat on an aluminium plate that had 4 small exhaust bobbins as vibration dampers. But they were too hard and transmitted too much vibration. The silicone was laid as 2 strips about 5mm apart. Once dry, we added a third to form a pyramid. We drilled through the pyramid and attached the plate with the pump attached with some long thin bolts just tight enough so they didn't move.
@@robertwillis4061 ok that's good to hear. I'm considering using rtv silicone on my motor mounts. Hopefully they last many years and limit vibration if I decide to go that route.
Good morning. I have a 2006 Honda Pilot and I have a strange vibration setting in at higher highway speeds. Around 75-80 mph (120-130 kph) and settling out higher. It is intermittent. Someone told me to try new motor mounts. Since the problem is intermittent and seems to be related to load on acceleration as well as at constant speed. Problem is, I think that spending upwards of $500 plus on motor and transmission mounts is a waste. I have heard that aftermarket mounts aren't very good, so I am going to try this. Thank you in advance for the video. Will this restore teh movement to original or make it stiffer. This looks like the 3M poly sealant avilable int he US, but I don't know. There seems to be some give in the mount. Is that true? if so, that might be the thing to do. Thanks again.
*Stiffer. Not a 3M product. Henkel's TDS for Teroson PU 8597 (AKA Teroson Bond 60). Hardness is Shore 70A per DIN 53505 after 7 days at 22C, 50%RH. Warm and wet (Florida in summer) cures faster, cold and dry (desert in winter) cures slower. This might be marketed in NA as a Henkel-Loctite product. On Hondas, the mount that limits fore-aft movement (the dog bone) is always first to die. Cheers!*
Just done mine today, i degreased the rubber inside, let it dry very well and filled it with wurth windscreen sealant. I did it so well that it almost looks factory lol. Was very careful with it
Yes, you can do it the cheap way or the expensive way the time will show.I bought just the safe way.is not so expensive. so good luck and more creative thoughts.HCS.
Hi, great video.... is this sealant the one it used for windscreen.. cannot find that brand in Australia. So just trying to understand if can use another brand. Thank you 😊
Use fast set=2part A+B polyurethane resin 2kg $30 + add colour pigment for any colour u like upto 60/ softer 75 /med 85/ & above is harder. Check torque & adjust specs on fitment or *adjust if not removed on *torsion/torque mounts=*engine+cabin vibration
*Was also curious about that. REF: Henkel's TDS for Teroson PU 8597 (AKA Teroson Bond 60). Shore 70A per DIN 53505 after 7 days at 22C 50%RH. Warm and wet (Florida in summer) cures faster, cold and dry (desert in winter) cures slower. Cheers!*
Foolish people do foolish things. This is definitely a fool's errand. Durometer is the hardness of rubber. Dampening brackets are engineered with a specific durometer for a specific load. A homemade dampening bracket may work in the short-term. But depending on the location, they failed bracket will cost you more then if you would just purchased a replacement parts.
hello im your new subscriber, take a look of this 21810-1R000 ( my engine mount parts number ) can i use the same thing you did on your mount? i wanna save my money thank you for your response
Hey i have just subscribed! Thanks for your videos. I am getting a 1987 double cab this week. It has 1900cc engine. Petrol and water cooled. I am inspired by your vids. By the way i am from Israel. Where are you from? I here an accent... maybe russian?🤔 any how thanks for your vids! Keep them coming.😁
It's been almost 3yrs. How is the sealant now?
It’s doing well! Quite a surprise! Just looked under the truck a couple days ago!
@@OllarisGarage thanks mate. I'm using it now and it's not 100% perfect but it is much better now compared to vibrating side mirrors before
I think couple days to cure will be better as the thickness is huge. Nice job!
*Sebastian: Thank you for your clear, concise, single-objective presentation. If you're curious, as was I about specified cured hardness, Henkel Teroson PU 8597 Scheibenkleber: Per DIN 53505 method, hardness is Shore 70A after curing for 7 days at 22C, 50%RH. Cure time curve is temperature and humidity. Hot and humid is the process accelerant, cold and dry cures slower. Assuming Hungarian is your native language, kudos to you also for your superb command of English. Egészségére!*
What a great addition to the video! I appreciate your comment! Yes, Hungarian is my native language. Köszönöm!
Man, I really appreciate the view of the mount while putting the vehicle into gear and out. Great shot.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it
Great demo. Have used 'roof and gutter' on the rear trailing blades on the Aussie Ford falcon sedan like many others have done. Longer the better on curing time. Made me smile when you showed the smoothing job, exactly like mine. Many thanks for this demo video.
This was a very well made video and you seem like a sharp guy. I always appreciate clear instructions, explanations for things, and examples, which you all touched on.
I done this 20 years ago and have also machine urethane in a late to make my own. Only thing to be careful of is going too much on daily driven cars. I fine starting by taping off one side and fill 50% is a good start
Thank you for this video, i did the same for motor mount of my car long time back, whenever there is a gap in any bushing you can do the same for strenthing and will last long period.
I've been doing this for years & it truly works & I haven't replaced a mount in ages. Rubber isn't like it used to be & it's expensive,this is why manufacturers design them with spacings & they're failure point is inevitable so you have to buy replacements.
Great job to keep your wheels rolling 👍
Actually they’re designed with spacing to isolate vibrations and allow some flex. Solid rubber transmits more NVH. Priority is to reduce NVH over mount longevity.
@@Ben-bg2egbeautifully delivered comment
Have you ever tried with flex seal?
If anyone still thinking about this, it works perfectly well in terms of durability and holding your engine im place. There is one disadvantage to it, it will increase vibrstions and noise in your cabin/seering wheel etc. If that doesnt comcern you, go for it.
This works well on my T3 , I did this 3yr ago to good effect.
Still going good?
Wow quick fix and inexpensive repair it’s better than a rattle or broken mount 👍 great job 👏
I forgot about this fix and ordered a new mount today.
I'll try the fix on the other 3 mounts. Thanks!
I started to laugh when I started to play this but now I apolagise to you Ollari and praise you on showing us thick people some common sence 👏👍
An interesting solution! Nicely done, man :) Keep us updated on how it holds up.
Will do!
I use upol tiger sealer as its a PU sealer works really well, And works for a upgrade filling in voids
The toughest and most durable type of caulking rubber I've ever used is 3M 5200. It's rated to use under the waterline in marine applications. You can get it at marine stores or sometimes home depot, etc.
It would probably be close to the original rubber used in the mount.
Is it possible to patch a crack in the engine mount??? Because mine only had a crack at the top, so I only applied it to the cracked part. Sorry if my language is bad, because I use Google Translator.
So I guess the answer to your question is: yes, you can fix it. Hehe I really enjoys watching you fix that old vw
I was surprised! Thanks man! Glad to hear that!
@@OllarisGarage is it still holding up?
Yup! All good!
I've done this on 3 different cars in the course of the last 20 years and proper engine RTV, out of a spray can hardens faster and better than window silicone which you need to leave for a week or longer to harden, especially if you used a giant glob of it. The repair is permanent and firmer than standard mounts, so sport mounts for a pocket change worth of silicone.
Nice! You may have just saved the life of my outboard boat motor.
Great! Report back how it worked!
@@OllarisGarage So far it looks like it's gonna be golden! My outboard motor has 2 mounts that are a typical sleve within a sleve held together by rubber design, the rubber completely broke through in the middle letting the inner sleves pull out, & that replacement part for this motor is unavailable anywhere. So I cut out most of the old rubber & repacked them with the 3M Windo-weld. They look better than new & appear to be holding perfectly. Froze over here so I haven't given a test run yet, but they should be perfect. Thanks again for sharing this! Cheers!
@@OldMysticFantasistGlad to hear. ha! I forgot that it isn’t the season for boating!
Nice! I'm considering to try this out, at least as a temporary solution, before ordering an engine mount from overseas.
Very cool, I will attempt this before replacing my mounts
Thanks dude. It saves hundred dollars instead of buying the new one 🤗
Glad I could help
Man... You done so well... Thanks so much for your experience...
Incredible solution. It will be interesting to see if it holds up to the constant vibration and torque
Thanks! Looking good so far. Using it like this for the past 3 months.
I did this to the driveshaft carrier on my datsun 720, four years ago. The bearing seems more likely to fail than the silicone.
Do windscreens fallout after 2 yrs no self explanitry
I’ve done this my old man showed me it. Just as good as a new mount if you let it set
If original material left this is an ok band aid that will last & be similar/same as oem b4 repair.But remember set time based on air cure & when in large thick application may be soft inside weeks months later. SO IF NEED SAME DAY/ INSTANT USE 2 PART POLYURETHANE RESIN=fast set/ a.k.a Liquid rubber 60/soft 75/med& hard 85/ or above. ADD PIGMENT TO COLOUR WHILST MIXING 15MIN USE TIME + SETS IN 30MIN-1HR THROUGH CHEMICAL REACTION SO CHOOSE CONTAINER WISELY AND USE GLOVES & EYE PROTECTION
@@joeyallcock1011 yeah I’ve only used polyurethane I’ve never used window sealant I just realized now that buddy used window caulking 🤣
For 15yers now,to all cars that i hade,i bought new engine and transmission mounts,and to yha model that it eas possible,ive fill them with black silicone,since they was new. It dose make the car seem tighter. Yo only one car one Dacia Logan,witch i filed all the rubber mounts,i hade a vibration over 3000rpm.
But on the Mercedes CLK 320 Petrol,on witch i did only the transmission mount,was perfect.
Nice work .I like the pit.
Hey mate- that’s absolutely creative! BUT, I believe that the manufacture made it in a certain way where it moves and has some flexibility. Just imagine when filling it all with that thing, it will barely move and the vibration will move to other components of the vehicle which on the other side will cause a metal to metal tough contact such as the interior axles which then will shorten the life span of them! I believe that we need that flexibility which transfers vibrations gradually!
That’s my point of view sir
Good luck!
Few years ago a friend used a few thick beads of clear silicone sealant as an anti-vibration damper for the fuel pump of his rally car. Previously the pump had come loose and became unplugged during a stage. The bead was straight out the tube without the long nozzle.
Was it a good long term fix for him?
@@atnamesarelame Yes, it lasted for about a year. He then sold the car as it was getting old. ( MK2 Escort ).
Initially the pump sat on an aluminium plate that had 4 small exhaust bobbins as vibration dampers. But they were too hard and transmitted too much vibration. The silicone was laid as 2 strips about 5mm apart. Once dry, we added a third to form a pyramid. We drilled through the pyramid and attached the plate with the pump attached with some long thin bolts just tight enough so they didn't move.
@@robertwillis4061 ok that's good to hear. I'm considering using rtv silicone on my motor mounts. Hopefully they last many years and limit vibration if I decide to go that route.
I myself learned and used polyurethane caulk to fix engine mounts. 👍🏻❤️💪🏼🤣
How long did polyurethane take to set, I'm just about to do that with my subframe bushes on A4
@@geofcapes2642 3m poly fully hardenes 48 hrs. Good luck
@@wolfparty4234
Ok thx😃
Genius.
@@wolfparty4234 Genius !
Good morning. I have a 2006 Honda Pilot and I have a strange vibration setting in at higher highway speeds. Around 75-80 mph (120-130 kph) and settling out higher. It is intermittent. Someone told me to try new motor mounts. Since the problem is intermittent and seems to be related to load on acceleration as well as at constant speed. Problem is, I think that spending upwards of $500 plus on motor and transmission mounts is a waste. I have heard that aftermarket mounts aren't very good, so I am going to try this. Thank you in advance for the video. Will this restore teh movement to original or make it stiffer. This looks like the 3M poly sealant avilable int he US, but I don't know. There seems to be some give in the mount. Is that true? if so, that might be the thing to do. Thanks again.
*Stiffer. Not a 3M product. Henkel's TDS for Teroson PU 8597 (AKA Teroson Bond 60). Hardness is Shore 70A per DIN 53505 after 7 days at 22C, 50%RH. Warm and wet (Florida in summer) cures faster, cold and dry (desert in winter) cures slower. This might be marketed in NA as a Henkel-Loctite product. On Hondas, the mount that limits fore-aft movement (the dog bone) is always first to die. Cheers!*
How stiff is it when compared to an OEM mount?
Hola; perfect. Thank you. Best wishes to you from Río Cuarto, Córdoba, República Argentina.
Nice video with details explained. Thanks
Thanks!
Hola disculpa cuánto tiempo tiene que dejar secar el silicón? Saludos desde México ❤
Que tipo de silicón es,gracias buen dia
That's exactly what I'm gonna do
Something I found that also works is the flex seal glue..
Have you used this before?
@@SaintChicagoJayI have used both. What is being used in the video seems to hardens better. The flex seal is cheaper but works as well
@@Lsx865 what was your experience like with the flex seal? Was it stiff or did it still allow for some movement and how long did it last?
Just done mine today, i degreased the rubber inside, let it dry very well and filled it with wurth windscreen sealant. I did it so well that it almost looks factory lol. Was very careful with it
Hi, how is it going? its still good? does the car have any vibration now? thanks
@@nikoakropovic9759 yep still going strong. Might have a few more vibrations but not much
@@universewonders1 i have a poly made rear engine mount and when i shift in R or staying drive on a light my hand shakes on a wheel :D
@@nikoakropovic9759 it shakes abit more than factory but nothing major. Depends on what you use.. poly is harder than windscreen sealant i guess
@@universewonders1how’s it doing these days?
MUY BUENO el antes y el despues..!
Yes, you can do it the cheap way or the expensive way the time will show.I bought just the safe way.is not so expensive. so good luck and more creative thoughts.HCS.
Great idea, wondering why I don't get your notifications. Cheers.
Very good solution. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Great video guvnor
If it is cracked, can the top layer be patched?
Is it still holding on?
How is the condition of this thing now after 2 years of this video production?
Hey! Still in good shape!
That's all have nice day
nicely explained, thank you
best video with before - after!!!!
Thank you!
what is the black stuff called you applied
Awesome work man
why not?you can use that. but how long does it last?
Not sure but it’s been 28 months since i made this video and it is still working.
Hi, great video.... is this sealant the one it used for windscreen.. cannot find that brand in Australia.
So just trying to understand if can use another brand. Thank you 😊
Yes. That’s the stuff they use to glue in Windscreen’s in modern vehicles. I guess any brand would work!
good job! innovation!
Brillant idea. How about vibration in the cabin? Has it reduce too?
Smart, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Rob!
thanks
any kind of vibrations?
Great idea! Would be interesting to see how it holds up. Keep up the good work!
I’m sure I’ll do some updates after a while. But there is so much more to do on that truck! 😅 so no more driving until the bodywork is done.
@@OllarisGarage, well that`s just what you have to do. take care.HCS
How well does it hold up after 6 months?
@@OllarisGarage how's it holding up
Nice hack Seb !
Hi how is it going ten months later, I am finding difficulty in finding my car part.
Yes, it still looks good and no vibration.
Thank you so much 😃 for video ❤️ love from India
Thanks for helping us save money...
is this just normal sealant?
I like the idea, thank you for interesting video!
Thanks for watching! We will see how it works
It's been 2 Years now, how long did it last ?
Still running it! No damage whatsoever!
@@OllarisGarage double checking again 8 months is it still good ?
How much of the silicone did you use? A whole container?
Maybe a quarter. Probably less.
How long does this last for ?
I posted the video 1 year ago. It still looks like the day I made it.
why not clean the mount and press in something with the diameter? More standard bushing thats readily available?
This was easier. So I gave it a try.
its strong?or like rubber?
for engine mounting is good?thanks
I use it for the past 14months with no issues. A bit harder than factory rubber.
@@OllarisGarage How is idle smoothness? Any new vibration transmitted to the interior?
Hey! How's it holding?
All good! No issues. Looks the same as on the 1st day
It will cost me $700-800 for just one mount and no parts available.Damn!....I might try this too!!
Definitely worth the try!
Use fast set=2part A+B polyurethane resin 2kg $30 + add colour pigment for any colour u like upto 60/ softer 75 /med 85/ & above is harder. Check torque & adjust specs on fitment or *adjust if not removed on *torsion/torque mounts=*engine+cabin vibration
How is the mount doing after 11 months?
Just like on the first day!
@@OllarisGarage - wow that's amazing. I will be doing this as well. Thank you.
@@OllarisGarage Really still going
Interesting solution @@OllarisGarage
Thanks 🙏 a million for this insight and the question...too!
Thanks a good idea and a well done video
Thank you sir 👍
Brilliant video thx😎
Did it cause any vibration?
I haven’t noticed the „factory“ vibration getting worse yet😅
$175 for a motor mount if that works I'm gonna try it thanks brother So what did you use a poxy plastic filler
Back in a very dark time I fixed mine with flipflopslol
So what Durometer rating that window sealant is rated? 60A, 65A, 70A or 80A?
*Was also curious about that. REF: Henkel's TDS for Teroson PU 8597 (AKA Teroson Bond 60). Shore 70A per DIN 53505 after 7 days at 22C 50%RH. Warm and wet (Florida in summer) cures faster, cold and dry (desert in winter) cures slower. Cheers!*
I been doing this for real
It make some cabin noise?
I haven’t noticed any more.
Hey, thanks so much for the tip, gonna give it a try could potentially save me some much needed money👍,subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
*t* his is really a fantastic work sir . thank you so much 🙂
Ye to bahot bada g lagta hai
awesome...keep it up
how many days to get it dry?
24h it’s completely dry
@@OllarisGarage Thanks mate,.. will try in my parts soon,..
ممتاز
Not when I break them
this is very usefulll thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Muito bom parabéns
It is a good video , only ... audio too low .
Excelente 👌
Awesome!
Foolish people do foolish things. This is definitely a fool's errand. Durometer is the hardness of rubber.
Dampening brackets are engineered with a specific durometer for a specific load. A homemade dampening bracket may work in the short-term. But depending on the location, they failed bracket will cost you more then if you would just purchased a replacement parts.
Thats a fuckin idea . thanx man
hello im your new subscriber, take a look of this 21810-1R000 ( my engine mount parts number ) can i use the same thing you did on your mount? i wanna save my money thank you for your response
Its past 10 months. Is it still keeping up tight or what...? Thanks
Yes, still perfect like on the first day.
You can!
You can too! 😉
Thank You!!!@
hey Ollari. Im from Turkey. today 10. months. How is going doo doo parts ^_~? give me after result
Hey! It’s doing good! Check out my update video where I show it.
🤩✨
Hey i have just subscribed! Thanks for your videos. I am getting a 1987 double cab this week. It has 1900cc engine. Petrol and water cooled. I am inspired by your vids. By the way i am from Israel. Where are you from? I here an accent... maybe russian?🤔 any how thanks for your vids! Keep them coming.😁
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. I’m from Hungary.
@@OllarisGarage oh! That is so nice. Look cold at your country these days. Stay safe my friend👍
Yup it’s chilly. You too!
You mean Palestine 🇵🇸