How to make DIY polyurethane engine mounts

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  • Опубликовано: 29 июн 2016
  • This is the liquid polyurethane I used: amzn.to/2VPPayY
    Here's a detailed video showing you how to make polyurethane engine and transmission mounts from liquid polyurethane.
    The advantages of doing this as opposed to buying ready made aftermarket polyurethane engine mounts are that this method is much cheaper (25 USD for 4 mounts vs. 160 USD for 2 mounts in the case of my car).
    The advantages of polyurethane engine (especially torque mounts) are improved responsiveness, no need to replace the mounts ever again, reduced wheel hop and preventing horsepower lost on moving the engine back and forth.
    The video shows a detailed procedure, from removing the old mount inserts, burning out the rubber, and pouring in new liquid polyurethane. The product I used is reoflex 60 from smooth-on. There are many others out there however, this is just what was available to me and in the right shore hardness.
    The additional benefit of DIY mounts is the fact that you can customize the shore hardness of the mounts to make it best suited to your particular application. I have selected 60A shore hardness which is a nice compromise between the 80A shore hardness stuff which is more suited to track day cars and the 40A shore hardness stock rubber.
    The important thing is to ensure the pins inside the mounts are fitted in the same position as stock and they must be positioned to stand flat for the liquid polyurethane to cure properly. Think in advance about where the polyurethane will be drying as this is where the engine mounts will be sitting for anywhere between 16-48 hours depending on the tempereture and liquid polyurethane product/brand.
    Check out my blog for more MR2 mk1, 4AGE, DIY and more fun car stuff: www.driving4answers.com/
    #d4a #diy #polyurethane #enginemounts #engine #polyurethanemounts #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16
    D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program
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Комментарии • 1,6 тыс.

  • @d4a
    @d4a  7 лет назад +90

    Support d4a: driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/
    Motivation: ruclips.net/channel/UCt3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA
    This is the liquid polyurethane I used: amzn.to/2VPPayY
    This is the pigment for coloring the polyurethane that I used: amzn.to/36X81ww
    Watch the follow-up video: ruclips.net/video/mBYhdLsQqug/видео.html
    To skip the intro where I explain everything you need to know about poly mounts go to 4:00 where I start taking out the old ones and pouring new ones in.
    I am not in any way sponsored, endorsed, supported, etc. by this company. This info is also in the video description but no one reads that apparently :) There's a lot more good options in terms of liquid urethane out there probably, but this one worked really well for me and bonded itself to the metal mount very well.

    • @autoshamanmechanic8182
      @autoshamanmechanic8182 7 лет назад

      привет все хорошо. когда заводишь двигатель или глушишь происходит детонация двиготеля.тош то инженеры придумали много лет назат это правелные подушки двиготеля.то што ты показал это не провелно.идинствена с твоим изопритением можна времино ездить пока олиминь не лопнит. я этод экспиремент уже пробул. и я не вы ложыл это видео YotTude, пристав кагда машына троит толко двиготел дрибежыт, а если сделать по твоему технологие то двиготел будет валяца но земле,и очень часто будеш обрашяца до сваршиков чтобы они варили тваю машыну. я этот эксперемент уже делол.Удачи тибе .Я Руский

    • @n7195
      @n7195 7 лет назад +4

      can u straight to the point please ??

    • @MrRahimhosein
      @MrRahimhosein 7 лет назад +4

      Tycoolerz Yet no kidding. So much fucking useless talking

    • @SKPlaysMC
      @SKPlaysMC 7 лет назад

      driving 4 answers iiiy

    • @nodierpoveda298
      @nodierpoveda298 6 лет назад

      driving 4 answers

  • @S.ASmith
    @S.ASmith 3 года назад +152

    As someone trained in low pressure (hand) polyurethane injection moulding, I would suggest a silicone gun and getting some empty tubes. You can fill the tubes with the polyurethane, pop a cap on the end, put in the gun, and squeeze any bubbles out.
    After mixing, if you have a vacuum chamber, it helps to pull a vacuum on the material too. Once air has been pushed out the nozzle end of the tube, you should endevour to keep the tube NOZZLE DOWN, to trap any air near the cap/plunger end, and not in the nozzle (to avoid injecting it).
    A heatgun can be used on most material to pop air bubbles that rise to the surface, and heat can be used to accelerate the curing process. Polyurethane will take up to 28 days to 100% cure, and it will gradually get harder over a longer period of time, but it depends on the pre-polymer and the crosslink compound used!
    Bare in mind, a lot of crosslink compounds and pre-polymers are carcinogenic, wear gloves at a bare minimum with the material, but I would advise a respirator. Methyl-Ethyl Ketone (MEK) or Acetone can be used to remove polyurethane too (Even when set), however, i caution against using it on where you want to keep it because it can make material swell over time.
    ---------
    Experience: Producing equipment, cables, joints & connectors from polyurethane for offshore marine, military and survey industries, with my mouldings tested to depths of up to 6000m.

    • @S.ASmith
      @S.ASmith 2 года назад +4

      @Snowman88 if you want to melt your fuel lines, yes you can do that. MEK is more aggressive than acetone haha

    • @S.ASmith
      @S.ASmith 2 года назад +16

      @Snowman88 Knowledge is a gift to humanity, sharing it with others is the best thing we can do in life.

    • @trulyblessed8767
      @trulyblessed8767 Год назад +1

      You need to start your own business rebuilding motor mounts. I have a geo storm can't find them anywhere

    • @S.ASmith
      @S.ASmith Год назад +4

      @@trulyblessed8767 I could do, but it'd be mail order and I'd need to get a few hundred £££ worth of stuff first. Vacuum chamber is a must really, tubes are cheap, as is a silicone gun. I have MEK and Acetone from doing some paintwork a while ago (few litres of each)
      You ideally need a jig and a work bench as well, or a hot plate. I'd need some aluminium plate and silicone release spray to sit the engine mounts or bushings on with some way to locate any centre pins or bolt holes.
      Far from impossible and I might just do it, quite a saturated market though unfortunately.

    • @orlandoemanoel2409
      @orlandoemanoel2409 5 месяцев назад

      Nice! I have recently searching how to do some cables connectors waterproof to oceanography equipments to my college's work.

  • @Simnettnutrition
    @Simnettnutrition 5 лет назад +184

    Just a quick tip about getting the pin out! If you just focus the flame on the metal pin it gets super hot and then you can use pliers to get it to pull right out from the rubber.

    • @TurboRetard
      @TurboRetard 3 года назад +5

      Awesome tip thanks man!

    • @leolldankology
      @leolldankology 3 года назад +8

      This makes the metal brittle.

    • @milandjuric8043
      @milandjuric8043 3 года назад +11

      @@leolldankology That depends on the composition and heat treat, if its low carbon, something like less than 0.3%, there should be no problems

    • @chronicblazer84
      @chronicblazer84 3 года назад +4

      @@milandjuric8043 and you know the composition because you have a technical drawing from the original manufacture?
      Should be alright is a pretty big term, especially when you don't have this information readily available.

    • @atomsk1646
      @atomsk1646 3 года назад +6

      @@chronicblazer84 f it man just try what works if it works.

  • @trucavalier
    @trucavalier 7 лет назад +103

    Everyone did this in the nissan community years ago glad to see people still using it with success

    • @LeglessWonder
      @LeglessWonder 3 года назад

      I knew of a lot of DSM guys doing it too. Haven't seen it done in forever tho. Prices back then were so much higher

    • @LegitimentPie
      @LegitimentPie 3 года назад +5

      I'm doing this for my 2005 1.8l stick shift sentra lmao, can't wait for these things to cure

    • @DiegoAstudillo193
      @DiegoAstudillo193 3 года назад

      Exactly! This was a must

    • @MrCoolvibeztv8079
      @MrCoolvibeztv8079 3 года назад +5

      I did it on my bmw 8 years ago and they lasted until I sold it ..💯

    • @edwardfletcher7790
      @edwardfletcher7790 19 дней назад

      ​​@@LegitimentPieAre the mounts still holding up ?

  • @vne5195
    @vne5195 2 года назад +11

    I did this 20 years ago on my '89 Civic Si. I made the engine mounts solid with 50a polyurethane. The increase in felt harshness and vibration from the engine was tremendous. It was for a race car, so I didn't mind. If you are doing this on a street car, your passengers will hate it. I imagine drilling holes to emulate the shape of the original mounts would have reduced the vibration, but it was a race car, so I just left it in torture mode.

    • @luc1f3r0_mf7
      @luc1f3r0_mf7 7 месяцев назад +1

      Batman: WHERE ARE THEY?
      Joker:…
      Batman: Get the ‘89 Civic

  • @michaeldose2041
    @michaeldose2041 2 года назад +8

    Quick tip on removing the rubber. If you drill a series of holes around the center it makes for a lot less rubber to burn. Also it allows the flame to penetrate through the bushing rubber. That method has the added effect of directing a lot of the fumes coming off the rubber to move away from the guy holding the torch.

  • @TheBobbe1985
    @TheBobbe1985 7 лет назад +30

    A vacuum-box will help you to get the airbubbles out of the liquid PU! We use it almost every day and the results are absolutely great.

    • @FredLarracuente
      @FredLarracuente 3 года назад +3

      Correct. Another option is to use a lower-viscosity PU. The lower the viscosity, the easier the bubbles will rise to the top and out of the PU.

    • @budgreen4x4
      @budgreen4x4 3 года назад +2

      Correct. Stock ones are pressed while heated under vacuum in a mold. Much better than the pour in.. longer lasting too

  • @WiPri0371
    @WiPri0371 5 лет назад +11

    Best to use a degassing chamber (which can be homebuilt) and a large plastic graduated paint tub (Home Depot, Lowes, Menards) as opposed to a paint rolling pan liner. Makes pouring a hell of a lot easier. I've used Smooth-On for several years for many things, from replacement parts mold casting to original castings to fillers, as is here. To make the pour "pretty", get a melamine board instead of cardboard and hot glue the part to it. No run out. No sticking. Easy parting. And if you want a profile to the poly, create it with modeling clay in the bottom of the casing. If your originals had a profile in the rubber, you could even cast it with this poly to place inside the case by simply using talc as the parting agent. You might even be able to extract the pin from the original rubber with a homemade electromagnetic coil to heat the pin but not the rubber. The pin gets hot, the rubber around the pin melts and allows the pin to slip out with a pair of pliers. Then, just slice up the remaining rubber into sections with a coping saw and peel it out. Safer and legal, since burning rubber is both a health danger and illegal in the US. Just be sure to re-temper the pin afterwards. Videos for each of these steps exist on RUclips - some in multiples.

  • @j.carlosandrioli7639
    @j.carlosandrioli7639 7 лет назад +11

    how is it holding up?

  • @BillsBuildandRace
    @BillsBuildandRace 6 лет назад +14

    A plastic tomato sauce bottle with a pouring tip is a great container that gives much better control of the flow of liquids. The tip allows you to pour into small, precise places, and you just don't get the product spillage seen here. The easiest way to remove old mounts is to burn them on an outdoor wood fired bbq without trying to remove them from the OME bracket. Once all rubber is gone, the outer sleeves of the OME push in mounts can then be cut once with a reciprocal saw & twisted free easily. Plastic bagging or pallet wrap serves as a great release surface to avoid cardboard hang up! Maybe a better way than using cardboard to local centre sleeves is to 12mm chipboard. Three nails will locate the outer rim, then put the centre piece where it needs to be (offset or not offset), and drill a hole through the centre so you can fit a bolt to the chipboard & hold it in place firmly with a nut. Common floor wax is a great release agent I use all the time in fiberglassing along with PVA release, so I'm also keen to try them when i attempt this manufacturing myself.

    • @d4a
      @d4a  6 лет назад

      WJP004 Great tips!

  • @tonythespeedy
    @tonythespeedy 7 лет назад +281

    What you really want to see starts at 6:35..............you are welcome!!!

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад +10

      You're right. I'm going to put an annotation.

    • @natesforge
      @natesforge 5 лет назад +2

      mvp

    • @user-gn1bx4rq9u
      @user-gn1bx4rq9u 5 лет назад +1

      TQ bro

    • @blackonblack...9244
      @blackonblack...9244 5 лет назад +1

      @@d4a To me the entire video was very informative from start to finish. Can aftermarket shops perform these DIYs on a car? I'm just wondering because I think I have two that failed on me since the Dealership had to replace my motor for legit warranty work. I've been thinking about getting them all replaced.

    • @MrMaxitaple
      @MrMaxitaple 4 года назад +2

      God bless u

  • @ronfazer2423
    @ronfazer2423 5 лет назад +8

    I did the same thing , but I used Polyurethane caulk / sealant . About $8 a tube. Probably not as good , plenty of air bubbles? but was very strong also. You have to be extremely accurate in measuring and keeping the inner bushing in place. Otherwise bolting into the car will not work. Nice job!

  • @thatunknownguy2680
    @thatunknownguy2680 7 лет назад +5

    If you want to get the air bubbles out, you take your mini torch and pass the flame over it right after you pour it. I was a polymer tech for quite a while. Also, it helps if you heat the mount first as well.

  • @der_pinguin44
    @der_pinguin44 7 лет назад +31

    Reminds me of the quick fix for one of the cars I owned.
    Punch the center through a hockey puck.
    Worked better than an OEM replacement. Lasted 100k miles. Was impressed.

  • @pvc988
    @pvc988 4 года назад +195

    Why am I watching this. I don't even have a car.

    • @BPoweredLove
      @BPoweredLove 4 года назад +6

      Why am I watching this? I don't even know what a car is.

    • @GTSTWINCAM16
      @GTSTWINCAM16 4 года назад +1

      pvc LMAO!!!!!

    • @kynkai
      @kynkai 4 года назад +7

      Why am I watching this? I don't even have any electronic devices to watch this on.

    • @kentduggan8626
      @kentduggan8626 4 года назад +3

      I think I know someone that saw an object one time

    • @TheNewyorican69
      @TheNewyorican69 4 года назад

      PVC let me guess why you don’t have a car because you got caught drinking and driving And the police impounded your car 😂

  • @bradburger7575
    @bradburger7575 7 лет назад +5

    stack wood under the mount before removing or damaging the rubber. start with the lowest point and use a hammer to imprint the wood. drill the hole for the shaft then stamp the mount surround. insert bolts into the holes in the vertical position, stamp and drill them as well. then remove rubber and insert back into template. then pour mold.

  • @nate2529
    @nate2529 4 года назад +16

    You've really come a long ways since these old times! I appreciate the upgrade in audio and video equipment. Lol.

  • @electronicsNmore
    @electronicsNmore 6 лет назад +68

    It would be a very good Idea to use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut small grooves around the center sleeve and inside the large outer ring to help create a stronger bond to the polyurethane.

    • @d4a
      @d4a  6 лет назад +40

      +electronicsNmore That's a good idea. The mounts are still going strong, but I'm sure that if anything fails it will be the bond between the center sleeve and the poly. It would probably be a good idea to roughen up the center sleeve outer surface as much as possible.

    • @electronicsNmore
      @electronicsNmore 6 лет назад +9

      driving 4 answers It was a great video. :-)

    • @S.ASmith
      @S.ASmith 3 года назад +14

      It would be btter to use a proper metal-polyurethane primer. Clean the surface of the matal with MEK or Acetone, use some MEK to water down a little primer, apply with a small artist brush in a very thin layer, leave it 20-60 minutes to set, then pour or inject your material.
      I recommend using same method STR/Seacon/Subconn etc use for moulding cables or joints and equipment, ie: a empty tube + nozzle + cap, with a silicone gun. It allows you to push the air out of the nozzle end prior to injection. Not only this, but vacuuming the material down for a minute to remove air bubbles also helps. It depends on the material though (ie: pre-polymer and crosslink).

    • @Slava870909
      @Slava870909 2 года назад +12

      @@d4a Hello, 4 years have passed, please tell us how these elements look now !. It will be great to see after all this time. Please.

    • @greggv8
      @greggv8 2 года назад +2

      @@d4a Smooth-On sells a product they call Ure-Bond to help their urethane rubbers stick better.

  • @kylemost613
    @kylemost613 7 лет назад +11

    I would highly recommend doing this in a well ventilated area and wearing gloves and a respirator.
    I work with PU (polyurethane) on a daily basis as a mold maker and this stuff can make you really sick!
    DO NOT USE this in your living room!
    Aside from that, Smooth-On makes some great products for prototyping, I use them daily!
    +1
    If you have access to a vacuum pot, you can degas the urethane prior to pouring.
    This will get rid of any unwanted air bubbles. Also, most polyurethane rubber compounds can be post-cured in a scientific oven to reach optimal mechanical properties.
    Cheers!

    • @nuxboxen
      @nuxboxen 2 года назад

      Guys take heed... look up isocyanates both burning and mixing polyurethane is no joke. I've talked with painters who've been exposed and it's not fun whatsoever.

  • @samualwhittemore228
    @samualwhittemore228 7 лет назад +23

    THANKS!!! Just today I was wondering how I was going to make the bushings for a custom 4-point trailing axle suspension for a 5 ton baja truck...Now I know how!! GREAT JOB!!!

  • @clist9406
    @clist9406 4 года назад +2

    Brilliant idea , I can't count how many mounts I have bought in the past few years. Track racing is never forgiving . Get a mix up several different hardness and compress it into tubes , hopefully enough of waxing on the inside diameter will allow me to push out the blank so we can be cut to size and shaped on the lathe and mill. Again brilliant idea and many thanks .

  • @JdmCharles
    @JdmCharles Год назад +2

    Thanks to this guy I am saving $1000 on motor mounts

  • @numinous4789
    @numinous4789 7 лет назад +5

    My Mazdaspeed 3 has three engine mounts: the rear motor mount (down low, between the transmission and the subframe), the passenger motor mount (up high on the left side of the passenger's side of the engine bay, between that side of the engine and the longitudinal frame rail there, and the transmission motor mount, about halfway down the height of the engine, under the battery box). The mounts are designed to run OTS Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings, for easy replacement, if necessary.
    I will say thins: a major contributing factor of NVH is the orientation/loading of the bushing itself. All of my bushings are in the 80+ duro range, and it does add some vibes, but I'm putting down 385/380 @ the wheels, so the performance boost of having the engine very solidly mounted is worth it to me, especially with an eye toward occasionally tracking.
    Great vid, BTW.

    • @NGinuity
      @NGinuity 7 лет назад +1

      That's good to know about the Speed 3. I have a regular 3 and swapped the terrible oil filled mounts for 80 duro poly mounts. It drove me nuts and they didn't stay long.

  • @bigsam2356
    @bigsam2356 6 лет назад

    I replaced my worn out rubber mount with P.V.A. polyvinyl adhesive, used for bonding glazed ceramic and vinyl asbestos tiles.I was impressed by the excellent stiffness and great results.

  • @delswanson3593
    @delswanson3593 7 лет назад +5

    If you add dye to only one part before mixing, you'll have a better visual on when the product is completely mixed.

  • @matthewdupuis232
    @matthewdupuis232 4 года назад +11

    LOL, I have been enjoying your Iconic Engines series and this popped up in my feed. I watched this video when it first came out! You've come a long way.

    • @nate2529
      @nate2529 4 года назад

      Same here. I realized that I had watches this video years ago without even realizing it was him. So much has changed! Lol

    • @jameswwchong
      @jameswwchong 4 года назад +1

      Me too!!! You didn’t used to smile... now you do!! Great!!

  • @damagingspark7
    @damagingspark7 7 лет назад +13

    Wow I never thought of chucking up a wire brush in a drill press. That's brilliant.

    • @alfredomarquez9777
      @alfredomarquez9777 7 лет назад +1

      There are some rubber drums that hold sandpaper rings, that placed on a drillstand work beautifully too.

    • @cultusmechanicus8001
      @cultusmechanicus8001 7 лет назад +13

      Just dont do it like him
      NEVER wirebrush with a drillpress and wear Rubber gloves.....NEVER
      Benn there, Done That .......it fucking Hurts when it grabs the rubber ;)

  • @anupjthomas
    @anupjthomas 6 лет назад +2

    Wow! Inspirational, and very useful DIY for rare expensive mounts. Thank you for this! Will try making one for my '97 Acura CL 3.0 right side mount.

  • @1607rosie
    @1607rosie 4 года назад +2

    I worked in a prototype shop and we had a job to make some custom urethane wheels. We had a metal insert placed in a mold. The insert had areal rough surface making it better for bonding. Plus I believe we had a primer to put on metal to help in bonding, anything you didn't want the urethane to stick to (the outside of the mold) had mold release.

  • @kimballscarr
    @kimballscarr 5 лет назад +12

    Actually contrary to many comments about the "bonded in" nature of the pin and outer ring to the urethane, I believe here what he has suggested, is the best of both worlds. The STOCK RUBBER ones are around Shore 40A to 50A but the Urethane can similarly be purchase to Shore 40A or 50A or 60A or very soft Shore 10A or very much harder in the higher Shore D scale. The comparison is urethane compared to rubber have slightly different absorption of vibration and slightly less stress defection for similar Shore hardness. This has to do with modulus of elasticity. If you pick a urethane similar to the original rubber bushing the stress defection would be similar with a softer, i.e. more energy absorbing, urethane bushing as the urethane has a higher modulus of elasticity and less stress deflection all things equal. As urethane is basically both higher tensile, and compressive strength for a particular hardness its going to absorb more energy so deflection will be less, and the internal stresses will be higher. So the idea of going harder is bad as it increases shock loading with high resulting internal stresses. This leads to reduced life and compression set unless carefully engineered, just like rubber bushings. But urethane is an engineered chemical whereas rubber is made like making a cake from a combination of materials coming together to form a unified whole, heavily dependent on processing the same. Still don't push it if you don't want to crumble your bushings be careful. You may have better engineered material but you don't want push it too far or it will deteriorate just as bad or worse than rubber. The difference is rubber will gradually give up whereas urethane will all of a sudden give up. He is on the right track not to allow sliding movement and accomplish suspension normal deflections with deflection of the urethane like is done with rubber bushes. Auto suspension engineers have a 100 years of experience and mass use to back them up with the bonded in flexible rubber bushes technology. The urethane applied the same way is a change of material not basic design... so the man here is right to build his bushes as he does.

    • @mqbitsko25
      @mqbitsko25 5 лет назад

      So in other words if you choose a shore hardness of polyurethane that's the same as the original rubber the urethane will dampen vibrations more effectively? Seems like that would be the right way to go, rather than using a harder material. Start there and work your way up if necessary.

    • @radonvon3120
      @radonvon3120 4 года назад

      Kimball Scarr good advice I was wondering about that

  • @NoahTheFacts
    @NoahTheFacts 5 лет назад +15

    This is so clever! I may do this for my transmission mount which has become hard to find.

  • @FlamingRobzilla
    @FlamingRobzilla 5 лет назад +1

    Thanks for this video. I have a 1996 Riviera with a bad motor mount that is impossible to replace. They simply are not available, and even the used ones from salvage yards are all so old that the rubber is gone. But repairing my motor mount using this method sounds like just the thing I need to do. Thanks again.

  • @kleetus92
    @kleetus92 7 лет назад +1

    Never thought about repouring mounts. ir, actually msking new custom mounts for a new project. thank you for a nice introduction to this!

  • @TheFrowningLizard
    @TheFrowningLizard 7 лет назад +148

    A standard rubber bushing is designed to flex and twist when needed to, hence why the rubber is attached to the outer ring and the central pin.
    Doing what you have done, basically fixing it with a solid lump of Polyurethane, will not allow the same degrees of movement and could possibly damage the Poly bushing.
    What I am trying to say is when you bolt up the centre of the mount it will have no movement, where as a 'Bought' Poly bushing has the pin in the centre removed/not attached so that the bushing can rotate easier.
    That is what the gaps in the original bushing are for, twisting movement. When you tighten the bolt in the centre of your fixed mounts, it will tighten everything and you will have NO twisting movement and a very short bushing life.
    When you change a wishbone bushing or whole wishbone, the car should be settled at ride height before tightening the mounts, so that everything is straight and allows for the proper twisting/movement of the bushing.
    15 years of Mechanical Engineering has proven this to me many times. If you want to do this properly you need to pour the Poly without the centre pin, then drill out the hole required and grease the pin so it has rotation.
    Good idea tho, might try it one day :)

    • @downunderdan5132
      @downunderdan5132 7 лет назад +11

      TheFrowningLizard that's true. It's how most OEM and aftermarket bushes are supplied. As you say the pins should pivot and be lubricated. It's a good start in DIY though 🤔😊

    • @oldowl4290
      @oldowl4290 6 лет назад +5

      By "wishbone" I assume you mean Control Arm bushings. Most engine mounts, especially ones that are oriented vertically do not require the same amount of flexing as a control arm. Regardless, what if you were to first lightly grease the pin with say a very thin coat of something like Vaseline. If wiped off enough to leave an extremely thin coat I assume you would be able to easily remove the pin once the poly has cured and then reinsert it again with whatever proper bushing grease such as silicone grease (which you didn't specify). You could also do this with a few other smaller pins in the middle ring of the poly to create 4 to 6 added holes for flexing. I think doing these two things would take this DIY mod as far as it can go.

    • @alonzorottmann5706
      @alonzorottmann5706 6 лет назад +11

      you must not know much about high performance mounts. polyurethane IS the material that high energy mounts are made of. they are the "flexible " version of solid metal mounts. if you are applying any HP to them the poly will be much better feeling that that sloppy rubber. Even OEM mounts for my Ram are hard to find and one is over $300. this is actually an extremely good idea.

    • @vincevegacustoms754
      @vincevegacustoms754 6 лет назад

      TheFrowningLizard this is how poly bushings are made,they just vacuum mold them,but this is the material they use,you can select diff hardness to get the movement you need without causing to much vibrations...next step after this is solid aluminium inserts welded on the mount(solid mounts)
      If the car dont make the required power to run them it will vibrate even more...

    • @eltostonsito
      @eltostonsito 6 лет назад +2

      @ alonzo rottman. Yep that's how I found this video. Searching for an alternative to the pricey front mounts for my 2007 Dodge Ram 1500. Will be working on the mounts this weekend but more than likely I'll be using the Windo Weld.

  • @wonkylommiter6364
    @wonkylommiter6364 7 лет назад +66

    If possible, when removing the original pressed in rubber inner bush, to weaken the pressed in steel mount's press fit in the outer casing, rather than attack it with the hammer and pointed chisel/drift, to collapse it, if there is a gap in the rubber big enough to get a hacksaw blade in you could VERY carefully saw thru the inner sleeve taking care not to saw into the outer part, then it should come out easily. just an idea:-) thanks for the idea and taking the time to post a video, friend!

    • @peggenlejoncar9529
      @peggenlejoncar9529 3 года назад +6

      Yes and if burn rubber not fingers or hands it,its very poison for body.

    • @GraceEngineering
      @GraceEngineering 2 года назад +1

      One could also use a Dremel rotary tool to get into the bushing with a but more precision. I prefer to use a tungsten carbide bit that will actually cut a hacksaw blade in half.

  • @roadworthy6901
    @roadworthy6901 7 лет назад +2

    Amazing guide! You're awesome bro! I'm so glad you went into the details about stiffness and shared the product you used.

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад +2

      Road Worthy Thank you. It makes me really happy when people find it useful :)

  • @endtimeawakening5557
    @endtimeawakening5557 Год назад +1

    Awesome idea for engine mounts. This product would work great on old machines that have components that have deteriorated over time. Great idea!

  • @stevemcilroy9518
    @stevemcilroy9518 6 лет назад +5

    Nice one, ill try this on the rally car, those powerflex rubbers cost a fortune, great idea.

  • @JMichaelBreitenbach
    @JMichaelBreitenbach 7 лет назад +4

    For those talking about compressing the polymer to reduce the size of the air bubbles, you could probably get a similar benefit by just putting the mixed liquid in a vacuum press before pouring.
    It's similar to what you'd do with any epoxy/composites when you're going to have the final product visible. Putting the mixed epoxy under vacuum removes the air bubbles that make the epoxy visible and potentially less durable

    • @JunkCCCP
      @JunkCCCP 5 лет назад

      @Michael Hensley That's not a good reasoning. Air bubbles introduce inconsistencies and if there are a lot of them, they greatly weaken the final product. If you need more absorbtion, you just use a softer Shore hardness polyurethane (40A instead of 60A like the guy here used).

  • @getahanddown
    @getahanddown 6 лет назад

    Great idea and demo video, thanks for sharing. I like that I saw this BEFORE I did my engine swap not after!

  • @GriffinBenchmark
    @GriffinBenchmark 7 лет назад +2

    Perfect low cost DIY solution! Love this idea! We just replaced the motor mounts in my son's 69 Bronco, not sure this would have worked for that but I could picture making body bushings and linkage bushings using this method as well?! Thanks for the video!

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад +1

      Griffin Benchmark Thanks for watching, glad you liked it. I'm sure it would have worked fine for the Bronco too, as long as the mold isn't some super complex shape that is impossible to pour. Haven't tried suspension and other bushings yet, but lots of other people suggested it and said they would give it a go. In theory it should work, but I'll have to give it a try myself before I can be sure.

  • @CarsSimplified
    @CarsSimplified 7 лет назад +14

    If you have a thick metal engine mount, you can drill some holes into the thick areas from the area where the rubber was, so there are areas where the polyurethane can hook into, preventing spinning and sliding even further beyond coarse sanding.
    Also, if you can get just the rubber out, you may be able to coat it in fiberglass (in a manner that allows you to pull the rubber back out) to make a reusable mold.

  • @immikeurnot
    @immikeurnot 5 лет назад +5

    Clean the mount with denatured alcohol, use masking tape to make sure you don't run everywhere and fill the voids in the rubber mount with windshield adhesive. Works just as well, quicker, cheaper, easier.

    • @James-ns6jm
      @James-ns6jm 5 лет назад +1

      i was think what if he just filled in the rubber cavity with the polyurethane instead. Should give a much stiffer ride. less engine movement, not quite as much as pure polyurethane mounts but just as good. And most likely wont vibrate when idling.

  • @witchcraftauto
    @witchcraftauto 2 года назад +2

    This is insane! How have I not heard of this before?!

  • @TCreatorO
    @TCreatorO 2 года назад +1

    I had no idea you made this video, I saw this video like 4 years ago, and then subscribed like 2 or 3 years ago lol

  • @vikramsinghrathore6693
    @vikramsinghrathore6693 6 лет назад +6

    Awesome! Job. Keep it up and keep posting

  • @arseniosifontes5878
    @arseniosifontes5878 7 лет назад +11

    Good afternoon,
    my friend, congratulations for this important tutorial .. I appreciate
    all the information you can give me to learn how to do that work ..

  • @ro-jayno-yay3185
    @ro-jayno-yay3185 2 года назад +2

    Badass! Best DIY ive seen in years!!! Youre awesome! Thanks!

  • @davecc0000
    @davecc0000 7 лет назад

    Excellent filming, editing, lighting--everything! Once of the best DIY vids. Cool!

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад

      davecc0000 Thank you for your kind words and support, it means a lot.

  • @flash6357
    @flash6357 7 лет назад +4

    I left some of the original rubber in so it was more PU reinforced rubber. Worked very well.

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад +2

      That is a good idea. If you leave the original rubber in you don't have to measure anything and the results are almost identical. I wanted 100% poly for the sake of showing you can DIY the same thing that's being sold for a lot more $$$.

  • @timerickson2141
    @timerickson2141 6 лет назад +5

    I have to say next time I need a carrier bearing insulator for a drive line I'm going to do this. New carrier bearings are $185 up to over $1000 if you can even get one it's in my experience almost always the rubber insulator that rots and not the bearing. In my old Datsun I would of had to get a new driveline made to get a carrier bearing. So I cut up a mudflap and wrapped the carrier bearing every couple years I had to rewrap it . But this man im going to try it.

    • @ModelLights
      @ModelLights 5 лет назад

      Just FYI, a lot of the drivelines are based on a Subaru drive line from the mid to late 90s or early 2000s, and licensed from Subaru. I had a 2005 Cadillac SRX with such a driveline, and the part was costly. But the CTS part was $35, and had the same inner rubber spider and bearing, only had to dismount the outer mount from the old part, and put in the new bearing and isolator into it. Worked perfectly and far less money. Anyone encountering these should see if there's another cheaper model car or even this CTS part that will work (since many are also licensed from Subaru and the same part and bearing design), and simply replace the isolator and bearing, your old outer ring and mounting tabs are probably not damaged at all.

  • @fairlane2020
    @fairlane2020 7 лет назад

    A very good way to fix your old mounts that are obsolete

  • @JeffReeves
    @JeffReeves 7 лет назад +1

    Thanks for making this! I am finally getting around to getting new tires and sway bar links for my AW11, and this will help me a lot when I get to fabricating some new motor mounts.

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад

      Long time no see :) Glad you like it.

  • @shaunstinger
    @shaunstinger 7 лет назад +3

    This is some great insight, i love it. definitely will try it..

  • @firechicken5
    @firechicken5 5 лет назад +5

    Thanks for the video and help👍

  • @martinee4901
    @martinee4901 4 года назад +2

    I'm impressed, i didnt know that this was possible.
    I'd set it up in a customwood MDF jig & bolt the parts in place, you could also do the holes in the rubber by using long thin bolts with plastic straws around them.
    I have had one car i could have 'saved' using this idea. & Currently 2 strut arms that need this done. ( Good balljoint @ each end, + worn bush in centre )
    Thankyou/m

  • @mrkazman
    @mrkazman 2 года назад

    Thinking of making new torque control mounts for my 2gr SW20, and this video popped back up on RUclips.
    D4A, I've got to say you've come a long way in your video presentations since this video, but this one is still great! informative, entertaining, and a very handsome host!

  • @fenderstratguy
    @fenderstratguy 7 лет назад +8

    That was totally cool. Had no idea you could do this.

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад

      Thanks. Glad you like it.

  • @victorborg7285
    @victorborg7285 7 лет назад +3

    Ingenious brother don't let the naysayers get to you here you're idea is sound and I'll be doing my upper ford mount this weekend to see how it works out. Thanks

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад +1

      +Victor Borg Thank you for your support. Glad you like the vid.

  • @neonRTowner
    @neonRTowner 7 лет назад +2

    Very informative and instructive. Gave me some great resource ideas.

  • @goliathmann3286
    @goliathmann3286 7 лет назад

    wow ! you just helped me fix something that I made a long time ago thank you.
    Thank you ! I love it when a plan comes together thank you

  • @gary4864
    @gary4864 7 лет назад +63

    the whole measuring and offsetting the pins is sketchy to me so if i were to do this i would just pour the poly in the motor mount with the old insert in there already, maybe drill holes or cut out some of the old stuff

    • @BlueRice
      @BlueRice 4 года назад +1

      thats what i do. few years ago. all i did was replace the liquid with 3M rubber. the one you used to seal restroom or wood. it was too rough for my taste and i brought oem mounts.

    • @bgee461
      @bgee461 2 года назад +4

      I suspect the offset isn't by design, it's the old rubber having collapsed and now he's transferred that 'collapse' into his new mounts.

  • @SEARCHDESTROY57
    @SEARCHDESTROY57 7 лет назад +3

    Excellent idea. Thanks for sharing!

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад +1

      Thanks. Glad you like it.

  • @tyleroutingdyke849
    @tyleroutingdyke849 Год назад

    Just did a set for my 2010 accent, super awesome mod for cars without any aftermarket support

  • @peterwill9660
    @peterwill9660 4 года назад +2

    Great video! Thanks for the info, I will be using this in the future.

  • @JickJackJake
    @JickJackJake 7 лет назад +107

    About 15 years ago I did this for my Infiniti G20. But I used 3M Window adhesive It's black polyurethane in a tube. I Can't remember, but it was maybe $10 a tube(small caulk tube).

    • @ManilaDashCam
      @ManilaDashCam 7 лет назад +4

      Jackup460 did it last?

    • @JickJackJake
      @JickJackJake 7 лет назад +30

      Manila Dashcam Yeah, they're still holding up.

    • @crzyazn
      @crzyazn 7 лет назад +10

      I also used 3M window weld on some suspension bushings. Been a year and still holding up

    • @harveytv18
      @harveytv18 7 лет назад +1

      Manila Dashcam

    • @lolzordje123
      @lolzordje123 7 лет назад +6

      yes it will last a very long time, window adhesive is so strong you can lift the car on the window after drying

  • @mckenataylor9777
    @mckenataylor9777 7 лет назад +86

    I feel like a wax paper on the cardboard would probably release easier

  • @donnatalielucasheimbigner7598
    @donnatalielucasheimbigner7598 2 года назад

    Thanks. This will work great for some discontinued rear swing arm bushings for my minivan. You can also use a saws all to get the inner pin out of the rubber if you have one.

  • @RazoE
    @RazoE 3 года назад

    Wow, watched this video years ago and I just subscribed to you with notifications because of your newer content.

  • @livehumansinside19
    @livehumansinside19 7 лет назад +3

    Awesome! I'll have to do this at some point. Good work sir.

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад

      Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.

    • @MrTheHillfolk
      @MrTheHillfolk 4 года назад

      Did you try it yet

  • @Esuper1
    @Esuper1 2 года назад +13

    So how are the engine mounts holding up and how are they performing overall?

    • @HunterSydenhamRacing
      @HunterSydenhamRacing 2 года назад +1

      He made a follow up video, im sure you could find it with a search around

  • @dansolt929
    @dansolt929 7 лет назад +2

    Going to do this for my Mk1 MR2 also. Premade for our car is insanely priced...
    Nice job bro

    • @jeebus6263
      @jeebus6263 2 года назад

      Where are you located?

  • @Harleyforever20
    @Harleyforever20 4 года назад

    Thanks for your time and effort making this video.

  • @MrZeddy100
    @MrZeddy100 5 лет назад +3

    Mate that was awesome. Well made video and very informative.

  • @astaghfirullahalzimastaghf3648
    @astaghfirullahalzimastaghf3648 4 года назад +1

    I put a like before watching the video..
    Not because of the quality of the video but because of your intention to help others with their problems
    I spent 622 in my currency and just 151.7 in your currency to get those
    Control arm bushings
    Really appreciate the surface knowledge you teach

  • @daxtonbrown
    @daxtonbrown 7 лет назад

    instead of burning the old rubber out I've drilled it out. Still a pain in the butt. Thanks for the video, I will try it.

  • @fpvgtking
    @fpvgtking 7 лет назад +7

    These videos are good bro!! Keep them coming!!

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад +1

      Thank you. Will do :)

  • @hasanhiki2166
    @hasanhiki2166 7 лет назад +3

    thanks a lot for sharing your idea. what kind of product u use. and where I can get it ?? the mix I mean

  • @lukasmeyer1992
    @lukasmeyer1992 7 лет назад +1

    We used to cast things like this under vacum. This helps to remove even more air bubbles.

  • @flyslideride
    @flyslideride 7 лет назад

    OUTSTANDING video! Many thanks.

  • @ApolloniumUranius
    @ApolloniumUranius 7 лет назад +6

    It's so nice to watch a video right after you've bought all factory parts for a car and driving it ;-((((((((((((((((((((((((((

  • @filthhater5491
    @filthhater5491 7 лет назад +89

    Trust me you can remove the pin from the rubber using a hole saw.

    • @HIHaiki
      @HIHaiki 7 лет назад +7

      Smart dude ..that's forward thinking

    • @andya857
      @andya857 7 лет назад +4

      You can also put the mount in a vice and use a sawzall or good hacksaw to cut down close to the pin on both sides

    • @chop_mane
      @chop_mane 7 лет назад

      better off to burn, cutting rubber with that stuff will be as a stinky smoke out as burning.

    • @hardrider5905
      @hardrider5905 7 лет назад +3

      Yeah i'd find another way for sure, burning is the last option i would consider.

    • @cameroncameron4274
      @cameroncameron4274 7 лет назад +2

      filth hater ,i use hole cutter for steel the type that goes in a drill and remove the pilot drill out of the center,flap wheel takes the remainder off, very quick method used it in the field once on my Landy😎

  • @jesusrosales4112
    @jesusrosales4112 4 года назад

    Like the tip about the coloring of choosing, thanks for the heads up

  • @dazedflyer357
    @dazedflyer357 11 месяцев назад

    Glad I found this video, I have a 92SHO and it's front motor mount is no longer available from general retailers so it'd be nice to make my own reinforced version

  • @nw8000
    @nw8000 7 лет назад +3

    Hi there will this stuff be alright?
    Polytek EasyFlo 60
    Thanks

  • @preludedudesi5208
    @preludedudesi5208 7 лет назад +14

    Should try wax paper on top of the cardboard, very cool, might have to try this

  • @turbofiat
    @turbofiat 5 лет назад +1

    I thought I was the only person who set fire to rubber parts!
    German cars are notorious for having especially fuel hoses onto push lock fittings then installing a crimped-on ferrule over top of it! A good example are Bosch fuel injectors . I guess so you have to pay silly money for a new hose assembly instead of just replacing the hose itself. Even the fuel hose on my East German Trabant used this setup. So this practice must go way back.
    I had to replace a fuel hose on an 82 Mercedes which was like this. Rather than cutting the crimped ferrule off, I just set the hose on fire using a torch! Once the rubber was gone, the ferrule just fell off.
    Then installed a new hose and reused the fitting. I never installed a ferrule. Why would you need a crimped on ferrule on a push lock fitting anyway? Those crafty Germans!

  • @oddjobbob8742
    @oddjobbob8742 2 года назад

    Great RUclips! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and time!

  • @kalumbabwale3729
    @kalumbabwale3729 7 лет назад +4

    You sir, are an Epic hero!! thank you for sharing this..

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад +1

      My pleasure. Thanks for watching!

  • @xplore7359
    @xplore7359 7 лет назад +27

    Quicker less painful way to remove the inserts if you don't have a press (I find it easier than using the press) is an air hammer, chisel attachment and a bench vice ;)

    • @detaildr
      @detaildr 7 лет назад +8

      The air choochin hammer is best for all applications where you just don't care about finesse!

    • @xplore7359
      @xplore7359 7 лет назад +1

      Jimmy Danger Gonzalez Damn straight!

    • @andreim841
      @andreim841 7 лет назад +8

      Jimmy Danger Gonzalez I iz recognize an AVE follower when I has seez onez... Hail 200 pounds gorilla!!!

    • @afk981
      @afk981 7 лет назад

      a bench vice is a press dumb dumb
      why didn't you just use that with a cheater pipe
      and make a die with some wood

    • @xplore7359
      @xplore7359 7 лет назад +3

      joey BOYER Because I have a 20ton air over hydraulic shop press :P

  • @Antoniostubeio
    @Antoniostubeio 7 лет назад

    Fantastic keep videos coming...im sick of being ripped off by companies,suppliers of performance parts and garages it just goes to shows if you have dedication,will,time and knowledge you can do anything at home...thankyou

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад

      Glad you liked it!

  • @erminioottone2861
    @erminioottone2861 7 лет назад +1

    I've discovered this channel yesterday and already love it, i'm into car too!

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад

      Thanks! Glad you like it. More stuff is coming.

    • @adammieysa6520
      @adammieysa6520 4 года назад

      Tdl

  • @Juppausempott
    @Juppausempott 5 лет назад +3

    Super brillant idea! 😉

  • @ebbcorepairs3253
    @ebbcorepairs3253 7 лет назад +10

    I used a vibrating plate to settle air bubbles. Amazing how much air traps

  • @whatmakesittick8362
    @whatmakesittick8362 7 лет назад

    This is a great way to do rear axle beam/trailing arm bushings too.

  • @CogwinderHDGaming
    @CogwinderHDGaming 7 лет назад +2

    Excellent Tutorial Buddy, I shall do this on my golf

    • @davidhinson7882
      @davidhinson7882 5 лет назад

      Thanks for the tip on the use of Reoflex 60 . I found reoflex 40& to on Amazon. Where did you obtain the 60 grade

  • @bosede-nage8467
    @bosede-nage8467 7 лет назад +31

    Are you sure that the pin in the middle is not centred in the old mounts because they have been pushed off centre over the years?

    • @802Garage
      @802Garage 7 лет назад +3

      That would be my guess as well.

    • @802Garage
      @802Garage 7 лет назад +8

      Looking at the bushing in this video though, it definitely looks offset by design.

    • @Mad-Duk_Machine_Werkes
      @Mad-Duk_Machine_Werkes 7 лет назад +7

      Just google image search Motor mounts, you'll see almost ALL motor mounts on all cars, US, Europe and Japan have an offset pin when new, this is to compensate for sag and wear as they get older- the bolt tube is usually higher than center when new because as the stock mounts droop over time they still keep it somewhat central- it's important to note you get the orientation of the pins the right way because you can end up tilting the engine front to back or side to side the wrong way and bad things happen to engines that aren't held level in the car (ESP with carburetor cars)

    • @bosede-nage8467
      @bosede-nage8467 7 лет назад +2

      Eclidean thinking about it I think you must be right. These are elastic so perhaps they are designed to centre when the engine weight is applied.

    • @billyberry4595
      @billyberry4595 7 лет назад

      Eclidean

  • @Heights.By.Great.Men...
    @Heights.By.Great.Men... 7 лет назад +4

    This is great stuff, thank you Thomas Joseph. i am a DIY'fer, i would love to know where in Jamaica i could get this product type or similar to buy????

    • @jeebus6263
      @jeebus6263 2 года назад

      I doubt very much this is available in Jamaica, their important tax are high. Can you order stuff from the US?

  • @jaylittleton1
    @jaylittleton1 7 лет назад

    Well done! You have the spirit of the old hot rodders, using creativity and imagination to achieve results.

    • @d4a
      @d4a  7 лет назад

      Thank you! I really appreciate your comment.

  • @bigvell02
    @bigvell02 7 лет назад +1

    Nice How To. Thanks for sharing!