there are magnets you can attach to the metal posts that have an eyelet that lets you use zip ties. No drilling, they are very strong and you can move them.
You have some good ideas. I like it. I just built a 24x36 ranch style garage 2x4x8 with roof trusses ( attic space but no storage ). It’s insulated with R 15 rock wool for the walls and I had R 39 blown in the attic . The interior walls are plain ship lap with primed pine trim around the doors and windows. I did go nuts and gave it its own electrical 200 amp electrical service. A 24K btu mini split with heat pump ( works great ). The foundation is a frost wall that is about 12 inches above the slab giving me 9 foot ceiling. Two garage doors are on the gable end wall with my shop at the far end. I do mostly woodworking so it’s set up for that. The floor slopes from the back to the front doors and the pitch is roughly 3 inches from the back to front. I wasn’t sure if it was too much when they poured it but now I can say it works great and you don’t notice the slope. I don’t know what the pros say but I think 1 inch per 10-12 feet is a good number.honestly 3 inch slope spread out over 40 or 60 feet would probably work. It wasn’t cheap! Steel is cheaper. I built it myself but I subbed out the roof,minisplit,electric. Not counting the site work the materials cost around 15k with everything I think I’m at 40 k the electrical required trenching about 150 feet the concrete work was 9k the dirt work was 13k I had a lot to do. Anyways I learned a lot and if I ever build another I agree with you build it as big as you can.
Great video! I’ll add that there is a few things you can do with those roll up doors, I guess all of them are tight when new but you can either remove material from the top of the holes that the latches lock into or add a foot peg at the bottom of the door itself to let your body weight do the work of taking the tension off of the door release slides.
I got a Carolina Carports building also and am happy with it, except for one thing. They didn't ask about the flute direction for the roof and since this was my first metal building, I didn't know to ask. Had they asked, I'd have definitely chosen to have them run in the same direction as the trusses run. When the assemblers started laying down the roof metal, I was sick. I knew that I was going to be seeing leaks. I simply had to hope that there wouldn't be a lot of them. It works, but it would have worked perfectly had they just asked
Thermal insulation is much cheaper to install before the roofing and wall panels get attached. Silver side inside, as it is more light reflective than white paint. The slab edges should ALWAYS be about 12mm or 1/2" lower all around, where the doors and walls sit on it, than the slab level inside the shed. that way, when it rains, the water stays outside. Otherwise, every big downpour, results in a pool on the middle of the floor. Your power wires and power outlets should all be plastic, not metal. Any internal exposed wires can connect through metals.
I would definitely have gone with proper garage doors. I had a 30x40' post framing style garage done and I love it. Automatic openers are a must if you're spoiled like me LOL.
I have been going to build a Metal Garage, but have decided to go with a more expensive Pole Barn due to the Garage doors that you mentioned and just easier to wire and insulate.
@@FlyinGato Awesome. I hope you're filming if you can and it's not going to set you back too much. No worries if not, thanks again, I'm looking forward to seeing this one when it is complete. I'm a bit jealous 🙂.
Long story but I had to build my own Carolina carports shop. I’m not sure I understand how the windows get trimmed out. The heads of the screws that hold the window onto the building cause a gap that the j trim sits against. Can you get me photos of what they did on your windows? They just fill the gap with caulking? Thanks.
Nice building! Also I see the building is sitting on the larger pad, knowing where the doors are going to be slope the concrete so water doesn’t blow in during rain is important and then you dont need a weather strip on the floor and you can gain a ramp, i usually cut out the concrete before it sets up when im finishing it. Cut/dug down at the edge 1.5 inches and back 16” helps for low cars when the garage slab is up. And yeah, 10’ square cuts minimum on slabs. (The concrete guys should have known that) Also yeah the cuts look 👌👌you try cut any concrete in perfect squares if possible. Like sidewalk is say 5 feet wide, you cut it every 5 feet.
The motors for these roll up doors are available but much more expensive than the traditional genie but it is possible. I dont like the fact that i cant lock it from the inside. Its a shop/garage, not a storage unit! These metal building people seem to forget that! They should inform customers of the diffent types of garage doors and offer standard garage doors and openers.
My apologies, I thought I did, it cost 19,850 for the metal building itself, and another 8500 for the concrete as well as all of the gravel I purchased.
All of the labor of the dirt, stumps, and gravel was on me. I leveled and formed my own forms for the concrete as well, and had 4 of my own guys there to pull the concrete with two hired concrete pros to finish it. Lots of savings there for sure
O how much was the cost...for slab and building....did u need permit? Any info would help because I'm going to build one in Houston TX for my race cars and tools..and to get away from wife
there are magnets you can attach to the metal posts that have an eyelet that lets you use zip ties. No drilling, they are very strong and you can move them.
You have some good ideas. I like it. I just built a 24x36 ranch style garage 2x4x8 with roof trusses ( attic space but no storage ). It’s insulated with R 15 rock wool for the walls and I had R 39 blown in the attic . The interior walls are plain ship lap with primed pine trim around the doors and windows. I did go nuts and gave it its own electrical 200 amp electrical service. A 24K btu mini split with heat pump ( works great ). The foundation is a frost wall that is about 12 inches above the slab giving me 9 foot ceiling. Two garage doors are on the gable end wall with my shop at the far end. I do mostly woodworking so it’s set up for that. The floor slopes from the back to the front doors and the pitch is roughly 3 inches from the back to front. I wasn’t sure if it was too much when they poured it but now I can say it works great and you don’t notice the slope. I don’t know what the pros say but I think 1 inch per 10-12 feet is a good number.honestly 3 inch slope spread out over 40 or 60 feet would probably work. It wasn’t cheap! Steel is cheaper. I built it myself but I subbed out the roof,minisplit,electric. Not counting the site work the materials cost around 15k with everything I think I’m at 40 k the electrical required trenching about 150 feet the concrete work was 9k the dirt work was 13k I had a lot to do. Anyways I learned a lot and if I ever build another I agree with you build it as big as you can.
Great video! I’ll add that there is a few things you can do with those roll up doors, I guess all of them are tight when new but you can either remove material from the top of the holes that the latches lock into or add a foot peg at the bottom of the door itself to let your body weight do the work of taking the tension off of the door release slides.
Great video man! Thanks so much! Loved the “if I had it to do over again…” comments. Those were the most helpful to me.
I got a Carolina Carports building also and am happy with it, except for one thing. They didn't ask about the flute direction for the roof and since this was my first metal building, I didn't know to ask. Had they asked, I'd have definitely chosen to have them run in the same direction as the trusses run. When the assemblers started laying down the roof metal, I was sick. I knew that I was going to be seeing leaks. I simply had to hope that there wouldn't be a lot of them. It works, but it would have worked perfectly had they just asked
Thermal insulation is much cheaper to install before the roofing and wall panels get attached. Silver side inside, as it is more light reflective than white paint.
The slab edges should ALWAYS be about 12mm or 1/2" lower all around, where the doors and walls sit on it, than the slab level inside the shed. that way, when it rains, the water stays outside. Otherwise, every big downpour, results in a pool on the middle of the floor. Your power wires and power outlets should all be plastic, not metal. Any internal exposed wires can connect through metals.
Looks good. If someone else tries to install a lift where you planned it will be a chore having to deal with all that rebar and mesh with a drill bit.
I would definitely have gone with proper garage doors. I had a 30x40' post framing style garage done and I love it. Automatic openers are a must if you're spoiled like me LOL.
Hey I built a similar structure, and I installed auto opener on the roll up doors.
17:23 is that cracked pavement under the Mazda?
I didn’t see a single Mazda in the video.
Maybe under the S2000? Wasn’t cracked, you may have seen a relief cut
I have been going to build a Metal Garage, but have decided to go with a more expensive Pole Barn due to the Garage doors that you mentioned and just easier to wire and insulate.
glad I was able to help
Thanks for sharing. When are you building your new shop in Florida?
That’s what has kept me so busy lately, right in the middle of the build currently
@@FlyinGato Awesome. I hope you're filming if you can and it's not going to set you back too much. No worries if not, thanks again, I'm looking forward to seeing this one when it is complete. I'm a bit jealous 🙂.
Long story but I had to build my own Carolina carports shop. I’m not sure I understand how the windows get trimmed out. The heads of the screws that hold the window onto the building cause a gap that the j trim sits against. Can you get me photos of what they did on your windows? They just fill the gap with caulking? Thanks.
Nice building! Also I see the building is sitting on the larger pad, knowing where the doors are going to be slope the concrete so water doesn’t blow in during rain is important and then you dont need a weather strip on the floor and you can gain a ramp, i usually cut out the concrete before it sets up when im finishing it. Cut/dug down at the edge 1.5 inches and back 16” helps for low cars when the garage slab is up. And yeah, 10’ square cuts minimum on slabs. (The concrete guys should have known that)
Also yeah the cuts look 👌👌you try cut any concrete in perfect squares if possible. Like sidewalk is say 5 feet wide, you cut it every 5 feet.
The motors for these roll up doors are available but much more expensive than the traditional genie but it is possible. I dont like the fact that i cant lock it from the inside. Its a shop/garage, not a storage unit! These metal building people seem to forget that! They should inform customers of the diffent types of garage doors and offer standard garage doors and openers.
How much you paid in total for the garage?
Don’t kick on the door, kick DOWN on the door to release the tension
Did I miss it? What did you say the cost was for the concrete and the building?
Electrical job is terrible it would never pass electrical inspection!
You said you would tell us how much the shop cost, but you did not even mention it.
My apologies, I thought I did, it cost 19,850 for the metal building itself, and another 8500 for the concrete as well as all of the gravel I purchased.
@@FlyinGato Thanks
@@FlyinGato that's cheap for concrete and gravel
All of the labor of the dirt, stumps, and gravel was on me. I leveled and formed my own forms for the concrete as well, and had 4 of my own guys there to pull the concrete with two hired concrete pros to finish it. Lots of savings there for sure
@@FlyinGato Definitely!
Love the s2000! Got a silver one myself!
At 12:21 of the video you can see a huge crack…. Looks like your arm covered it but you can still see it
how high is it, leg height? I want to do my next one high enough in case I want to put an upper level later
Steel doesnt rust? Those boys restoring the Battleship TEXAS would probably argue that....hahahaha lol
Lol it's also sitting here in Galvestons nasty salty water
Good info bro
Thats an enclosed carport. Nice to have enclosure but realize its very inexpensive.
Why don't people spend a little more and do vertical siding instead of horizontal
100% Agree
Everything we don't like adds "spend a little more"
You don’t have wainscoting you just have a different color panel on the bottom
O how much was the cost...for slab and building....did u need permit? Any info would help because I'm going to build one in Houston TX for my race cars and tools..and to get away from wife
Is this the metal building my and Alfredo built for you at your house?
When your dad was there?
If it was in PA, yes. The Florida building videos are not released yet
Steel over wood in Florida. Termites & humidity
Definitely
R u still talking about dirt?
The doors are horrendous
Only watching because you have an s2000..... and also may need a garage too
$26,000?? I can't afford that?!? Why do YOU get a shop and the rest of us cant afford it?!
That’s an excellent question
@@FlyinGato you rich people are disgusting
Cheaper than a stick built garage. I see these everywhere on ranches
$26k is cheap, if you can afford a $26k car, you can afford a $26k garage to keep 4 of them in
The electric is not remotely up to code
Dirt looks pretty oily to me!
Don't buy a cheaply made building, if you do you get a cheap building
You don't know the size???
Great another Florida transplant.
don't worry, we're the right kind
😛 dum a
Nice shop
Peace!