Nice! You may want to turn that rock diffusion point into a small streambed this way the water will wash those leaves further down away from the out put so the detritus does not make a natural dam over time. Letter the water flow do the preventative maintenance for you.
Another trick instead of using a fernco cut the pipe before it enters the hub next get a hole saw bit or piece of metal pipe that will just slip into the pipe. Heat it up with torch and slip it into the pipe while hot let it stay there for a bit then remove it get pliers and grip the pipe and rotate. If the pipe isn’t soft enough reheat the metal and try again. This works for schedule 40 so it should work with thin wall just don’t leave heated pipe in so long. I know people will say never heat pvc the fumes are toxic but working outside on a breezy day shouldn’t be a problem.
Never heard of that trick, that's interesting. I've seen special bits for sch 40 pipe that will carve out the old pipe in order to reuse the fitting, never thought of heating the glue to break the bond. Might have to break that out if I get into another sticky situation 😄
There is a flashing detail and a specific drip edge for gutters on metal roofs.. You are supposed to tuck the gutter under that drip edge (that is why the screws are 3/4" lower on those brackets they installed). Also if your roofer said 1" overhang is standard that is just false, most if not all metal roofing companies say 1.5 to 2". I personally like 1.5" overhang
The drip trim came from McElroy Metal for this roof system so it's definitely the right one, but for the back run I don't think it would have been possible to tuck the gutter up under it the whole way since it has to drop more than 3/4" in 43'. It will be easy enough to bend something up that hangs down a bit further and I can lap it over the gutter
Great! I was yelling at the screen but you didn't hear me. 😊. The adapters on my drains have a short flexible section that looks like a bellows. So it's a couple of seconds to disconnect the downspout from the drain. Very handy when cleaning gutters to avoid leaves being flushed underground where they can only cause trouble. A nice feature.
Hi ! Just found your channel and I'm super impressed with everything you two have done. May I ask what the price of your project is and an estimate of what it would be if you had paid someone to do it all?
Eventually we will do more cost breakdown videos, a ballpark estimate for paying someone to do the entire project isn't really easy to come up with. Too many variables with how particular we are for material selection and neatness 😄
Great video and explanation. Bucket list project for spring is new metal roof, soffit, facia boards, and new gutters. Your vids are a gold mind of great tips looking to DIY. Curious if seamless gutters come in a other colors than white - as I was hoping to vary the color scheme?
Awesome! Definitely keep that overhang 2+ inches 😉 Plenty of color options, you'd have to call your local installer to see exactly what they have, and I'm sure they could order anything you want.
Too bad they didn’t tuck the back of the gutter under the drip edge, we always tuck ours under and if it doesn’t work to we always add flashing. You’ll always have some sort of leaks if not
Might want to look into swales or having check dams to help slow the flow of water off your drainage pipes. Itll allow more ground water to soak into the ground instead of running off and eroding the land.
Ugh it looks like they did good work but it was hard to watch someone work so quickly and "haphazardly" after all the precision you guys put into every other part.
Haha they did a nice job even though it was quick. That's the difference between me doing something the first time at .001x speed to make sure I get it right, and someone doing the same task the 1000th time at 3x speed. The block masons were the same way, still so impressed at their speed and how precise the final product was. However, some tradesmen this rule doesn't seem to apply, and there is just sloppy fast workmanship 😄
i have used them to re use house 90's, those are such 40.. but "here" all plumbing, water, sewer, storm within 5 feet of the house is "plumbing" so such 40 not sdr35. ive ground a notch in sdr35 to pry out the spigot and re use a bell, never let the inspector see that though. all my work was sewer and water to the house, we had to stop 5 ft away because that was the transition location.. originally its because its really common to get settlements along the backfill of footings so the heavyer pipe needs to be in that settlement zone.. when i first started in 85 when i was just out of college most inspectors insisted on a stick of ductle iron for the first 20 feet for both sanitary and storm ..so all that - i assumed it was such 40 pipe i watch all your videos and enjoy them.... there are days where i just hold my head.. you seem to catch up and fix quick.. here, currently, in kitchens, every device with a motor of any kind has to have its own breaker - then 2 20 amp for general kitchen. dishwasher, wave, disposal, etc.. all get there own home run. when i swap from gas to induction range, im going to rewire.. add circuits to current code. including your wire for induction is a real fabulous forward thinking plan. @@MasonDixonAcres
Too bad they didn’t tuck the back of the gutter under the drip edge, we always tuck ours under and if it doesn’t work to we always add flashing. You’ll always have some sort of leaks if not
Yeah we'll have to add some flashing and tuck under on the high side. Since it was such a long run there wasn't any way to get it under the drip edge at the low endand still get enough fall
You always learn more watching a "Novice" build anything. Thanks for Sharing.
Nice! You may want to turn that rock diffusion point into a small streambed this way the water will wash those leaves further down away from the out put so the detritus does not make a natural dam over time. Letter the water flow do the preventative maintenance for you.
Not a bad idea there! We will likely be engineering some sort of rainwater collection system to irrigate the garden & fruit trees in the future
Another trick instead of using a fernco cut the pipe before it enters the hub next get a hole saw bit or piece of metal pipe that will just slip into the pipe. Heat it up with torch and slip it into the pipe while hot let it stay there for a bit then remove it get pliers and grip the pipe and rotate. If the pipe isn’t soft enough reheat the metal and try again. This works for schedule 40 so it should work with thin wall just don’t leave heated pipe in so long. I know people will say never heat pvc the fumes are toxic but working outside on a breezy day shouldn’t be a problem.
Never heard of that trick, that's interesting. I've seen special bits for sch 40 pipe that will carve out the old pipe in order to reuse the fitting, never thought of heating the glue to break the bond. Might have to break that out if I get into another sticky situation 😄
There is a flashing detail and a specific drip edge for gutters on metal roofs.. You are supposed to tuck the gutter under that drip edge (that is why the screws are 3/4" lower on those brackets they installed). Also if your roofer said 1" overhang is standard that is just false, most if not all metal roofing companies say 1.5 to 2". I personally like 1.5" overhang
The drip trim came from McElroy Metal for this roof system so it's definitely the right one, but for the back run I don't think it would have been possible to tuck the gutter up under it the whole way since it has to drop more than 3/4" in 43'. It will be easy enough to bend something up that hangs down a bit further and I can lap it over the gutter
Need to use a level to check the gutter not his finger
Curious what we can expect to pay per linear foot of seamless 6" gutters? Nice work as always.
This job was $1065 for 86lf of gutter and 40lf of downspout, furnished and installed. So if looking at the gutter only, $12.33/lf
Looks good, 6" only way to go! you should do screens as well and not have to ever worry about cleaning them
Thanks! We'll see how much trapped up there for the first couple years then potentially do screens then. They seem easy enough to retrofit
Great! I was yelling at the screen but you didn't hear me. 😊. The adapters on my drains have a short flexible section that looks like a bellows. So it's a couple of seconds to disconnect the downspout from the drain. Very handy when cleaning gutters to avoid leaves being flushed underground where they can only cause trouble. A nice feature.
That's pretty neat! We'll see if the smooth pipe ever gets clogged up, I have cleanout wyes at each downspout
Hi ! Just found your channel and I'm super impressed with everything you two have done. May I ask what the price of your project is and an estimate of what it would be if you had paid someone to do it all?
Eventually we will do more cost breakdown videos, a ballpark estimate for paying someone to do the entire project isn't really easy to come up with. Too many variables with how particular we are for material selection and neatness 😄
Great video and explanation. Bucket list project for spring is new metal roof, soffit, facia boards, and new gutters. Your vids are a gold mind of great tips looking to DIY. Curious if seamless gutters come in a other colors than white - as I was hoping to vary the color scheme?
Awesome! Definitely keep that overhang 2+ inches 😉
Plenty of color options, you'd have to call your local installer to see exactly what they have, and I'm sure they could order anything you want.
Too bad they didn’t tuck the back of the gutter under the drip edge, we always tuck ours under and if it doesn’t work to we always add flashing. You’ll always have some sort of leaks if not
Leaf filter might take care of the leakage you're getting
Might want to look into swales or having check dams to help slow the flow of water off your drainage pipes. Itll allow more ground water to soak into the ground instead of running off and eroding the land.
Thanks for the tip! That woods soil actually percolates really quickly due to all the coarse rock, which is why we failed our first septic test
0:20 Wow those trees got destroyed! That’s a bummer.
I know 😢 the storm in August really hit our woods hard. We still have a lot of cleanup to do!
What did that cost
Nice video, will be great if each time you mention a freedom unit there is the equivalent international unit on screen 😅
Haha as a former mechanical engineer I really do wish I grew up learning SI units. U.S. measurement units make absolutely no sense
What type of pipe is that? Looks like it's thinner than SCH40 and what size? 4"?
Yep 4" storm and drain pvc. SDR35 is the green type
What is blurred at 4:40? Does not look like car plate and a moment later it's visible?
Editing error 😂
Ugh it looks like they did good work but it was hard to watch someone work so quickly and "haphazardly" after all the precision you guys put into every other part.
Haha they did a nice job even though it was quick. That's the difference between me doing something the first time at .001x speed to make sure I get it right, and someone doing the same task the 1000th time at 3x speed. The block masons were the same way, still so impressed at their speed and how precise the final product was. However, some tradesmen this rule doesn't seem to apply, and there is just sloppy fast workmanship 😄
all you needed was a hub saver
Do they make them for thinwall pipe? I would think it would tear it up
i have used them to re use house 90's, those are such 40.. but "here" all plumbing, water, sewer, storm within 5 feet of the house is "plumbing" so such 40 not sdr35. ive ground a notch in sdr35 to pry out the spigot and re use a bell, never let the inspector see that though. all my work was sewer and water to the house, we had to stop 5 ft away because that was the transition location.. originally its because its really common to get settlements along the backfill of footings so the heavyer pipe needs to be in that settlement zone.. when i first started in 85 when i was just out of college most inspectors insisted on a stick of ductle iron for the first 20 feet for both sanitary and storm ..so all that - i assumed it was such 40 pipe i watch all your videos and enjoy them.... there are days where i just hold my head.. you seem to catch up and fix quick.. here, currently, in kitchens, every device with a motor of any kind has to have its own breaker - then 2 20 amp for general kitchen. dishwasher, wave, disposal, etc.. all get there own home run. when i swap from gas to induction range, im going to rewire.. add circuits to current code. including your wire for induction is a real fabulous forward thinking plan.
@@MasonDixonAcres
Too bad they didn’t tuck the back of the gutter under the drip edge, we always tuck ours under and if it doesn’t work to we always add flashing. You’ll always have some sort of leaks if not
Yeah we'll have to add some flashing and tuck under on the high side. Since it was such a long run there wasn't any way to get it under the drip edge at the low endand still get enough fall