Ethernet Wiring for Data & Internet
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- Опубликовано: 20 янв 2024
- Here is our low voltage wiring from start to finish! Now we're ready for PoE cameras, ethernet jacks, HVAC control, and garage door control 😎
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You definitely triggered my anxiety on the sketchy stairs "scaffolding." 😬😆
Lol same here don't worry
patch panel for the termination for everythi9ng in the cabinet would be a good idea.
All those Cat6 will have to terminate to a single location from all other locations, you will need a media closet or some place to terminate and connect to your gear. Dont forget your nail plates for any wire that you run through the studs and plumbing.
Yep we will do a little cabinet/nook in the entertainment center! There will eventually be a full wall built-in on that wall with an electric fireplace and picture frame TV so it will be easy to store there.
I'm doing this in my new home. Good to see this video!
Love your channel , I have extensive understanding on network wiring and the type of wire you are using with a length greater than 100ft will degrade in speed depending on your task. There is another type of CAT6 wire, but that does not MIX alloy with copper and uses pure copper it will not degrade even at 300ft well worth a few extra dollars. If it's not too late I would recommend pulling that wire. Also consider structuring network center in a CENTRAL position making it more efficient and economical in general to run to each endpoint around the house. You can also consider running the same cable to cameras with supported POE you are set. Keep up the great work....Congrats on your new home.
Thanks for all the info! The wire in this video was pure bare copper wire, I got it here: www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13674. Maybe you are thinking of copper clad aluminum (CCA) cable?
I was originally planning to do a network hub in the utility room, since it will be a central spot once the addition is on. But the Reolink PoE system we will be using looks like it calls for all of the cables to come back to the NVR, which is connected directly to TV via HDMI and controlled with a mouse connected to the NVR. I'm sure more sophisticated and expensive PoE systems work better with a central hub and remote viewing/control.
Definitely still learning low voltage so feel free to email with any other advice you have!
You are correct, also rated at 10gig@@MasonDixonAcres it still look rather thin to me, but its stated bare copper. stuff i used to run was much thicker and rigid, but used to use outdoor style. Upto 295 feet you should be good. Also before you close the wall run network everywhere, you might want to look up PREMIERTEK in cali (direct source), I think 1kft close to same price...anyway enjoy the channel, I hope one day to make my own home.
Its a good idea to go around and cover all of the electrical boxes with duct tape. Especially the low voltage ones. Paint and drywall/texture mud will get on the wires and make the finish step messy otherwise.
Haha right! When my dad was building his house in the 60's my kid self had the job of stuffing all the boxes with newspaper before the plasterer showed up. Duct tape wasn't a thing yet 😊.
Good idea! We will definitely protect them, especially switch boxes near the seams that will get a nice trowel of mud right over top 😄
A small piece of fiberglass insulation works pretty good. Just cut a bunch of rectangles a little bigger than the box, separate them into 1” thick pieces and stuff them in the box.
Only recommendation I would have would be to run all the cat 6 to the utility room and have a patch panel and server rack installed there. So much easier for running POE devices all to one location and won't be taking up space in the living room. Ubiquiti makes some great hardware for home networking and automation.
I did think about that, what steered me towards routing everything to the TV location was the manual for the cameras and NVR we will be using (Reolink). It called for all the cables to terminate at the NVR feeding directly to the viewing TV with HDMI and is controlled via USB mouse. I suppose I could have run a long HDMI & USB from utility room to living room TV, but thought there might be excess latency. There's probably hardware to make a remote setup like this work, I'd have to do more research. I'm certainly open to advice on this for the future addition, low voltage is something I really haven't dug super deep into.
"Turn the Beat Around" was a disco hit from the '70s. In high school pep band ('79-'82) it was in our regular repertoire.
Hahah love it!
I like your videos and have learned a lot. Please be careful as your scaffolding above the stairwell made me anxious!
It made me anxious too don't worry 😅 After drywall & paint there shouldn't be any more work above the stairwell thankfully!
Very nice thinking and work on all this. It looks like the house is a bit big to expect solid wireless coverage from a Wi-Fi router sitting wherever the network ingress will be. Recommend thinking through access point locations and adding a CAT-6 drop at each that runs to the wiring shelf/closet of the ingress. I can say from experience that wifi dead spots are a nagging quality of life issue these days and retrofitting additional access points is painful.
Good tip! I suppose we could do a repeater in the office if needed. Right now we use T Mobile's generic router that comes with their hotspot internet service and it sits in the RV, we actually get pretty good Wifi everywhere in the house. I'm impressed with that thing
Hard wire for an Access point or two. Thank me later.
@@MasonDixonAcres Yeah keep in mind that penetration will decrease as you add structure like sheet rock and turn on electrical.
@@MasonDixonAcres planning for Poe ap’s is necessary. With your conduit you should be fine though. I’d also recommend never using an ap that doesn’t have a hard wired backhaul (repeater) as those normally chunk bandwidth.
These video you make are awesome very helpful and extremely appreciated! Im just in the starting point going backwards from pre-existing drywall finished with fully insulated attic but determined to install all the car6 wiring, Smruf tubing! I did want to ask on that from attic run to your basement you installed pvc conduit pipeing. Can this be done anywhere? Meaning from any wall or space from attic to ground level floor? It there restrictions if driling 2" or 1.5" holes into the top/bottom plates and/or studs as needed to get to runs i need from attic to ground floor! Also can you do these runs from attic to ground level in multiple places if needed? Or does/would this hurt the structural integrity?
Ps can you use smruf tubbing vs pvc conduit? Any pros/cons for this?
I am actually looking forward to running CAT on my new build. I first started pulling wire in hot, filthy attics and crawlspaces 20 years ago. My final retrofit job was drilled through solid foam in my RV. Having bare studs and open access is going to be sheer joy by comparison.
Haha you're totally right.. get the wiring in while it's fresh!
if you put 3/4" plywood blocking all around the tv boxes - you will make mounting the tv vastly simpler...
Yep that's the plan! Will do a whole video on blocking
We had the same thing done for our offices and media room when we had the basement finished, I dont think we ever used them because wifi is so much cleaner looking. The only thing i can think of that's worth wiring these days is the surround sound system(s).
True, that's why we didn't go crazy putting a jack anywhere other than the office. We use T Mobile's generic router that comes with their 4G internet service and it's pretty darn fast as-is
I was helping out a neighbor whose house had been wired with cat5. A bunch of cat5 runs. They all came to a wiring cabinet, but were not labeled. For phone lines, this is fine because phone lines are simply tied together. Cat5/6 network runs are point to point. Its very good idea to label the runs.
Yep they are at the ends with some masking tape!
When we did a major extension I ran cat5e all over the house way back in 2004. You are totally correct about the cost when it isn't finished. People thought I was nuts then and it is still better than many houses today. One thought on the hard drive, you can get NAS storage with software that is fairly robust for survelliance with no monthly fees. Make sure to back it up offsite, either to another NAS which is free other than hardware, say at your in-laws, or to the cloud.
Thanks for the tip! The camera system we will use has an NVR that comes with it, no monthly fees thank goodness!
Great video but it would not pass inspection in my area. You need vapor boxes on the outside walls and ceilings or cold air is going to get in. Hot air would also migrate in on a hot summers day. Now if you are using spray foam insulation then its ok.
We are using Siga Majrex vapor control layer and taping to the boxes - more to come on this. Also used sealant on the wire entrances and unused knockouts on the back of the boxes
Big fan of this channel, learned alot! One question is for running vertically wires, electrical or otherwise from attic on a 2 level building down to ceiling of 1st level, can you cut into a header top plates on the inner framing not a exterior wall but a inner wall with a top plate? Any cutting into an exterior framing is a no-no due to load is my understanding but what about inner framing top plates, etc to get to 1st level?
You can drill through load bearing top plates, interior or exterior, but only within limits specified in the IRC and/or local codes. There's not much harm in drilling through a partition wall only holding drywall up.
I would have put a draw wire in your long run of flexi those ridges in the tube make it hard to get cable through unless it’s a straight run 👍
I just vacuum a string through later when needed! Super easy
Did you do doorbells?
Nope! A good ole fashioned "im here" text message will have to do 😆 we are so far off the road, there aren't many unplanned visitors that it would make sense to have a doorbell for
How about those poor girl scouts selling cookies. LOL
@@MasonDixonAcres
that zip has to just be discolored right, not wet?
Yes, it’s not wet. The discoloration is the result of a manufacturing process called skip sanding to ensure uniform thickness on the final panel
Same thought!! I've seen very few zip failures and is always an install outside of spec.
Is there a reason why the backside of the Zip system is wet? Are you having having issues with leaks?
It's not, it's a color difference in the resin due to a process called skip sanding that is done at the factory to ensure perfectly even thickness of the finished panel.
Former OSHA-MSHA inspector 😳🤦🏼♂️lol
Oh gosh 😅