I just now tried to bust the compensator nut loose with a 15" breaker bar with a 2ft pipe cheater bar over it and it didn’t budge, ...broke my step locking tool 😮. Is it ok to use an impact air tool or might that affect the crank, bearings, and such with a hammering affect?
Hey, too many videos to thank you on every one, but thanks for the effort! Tackled this job myself (96 fatboy), turned out great. Videos like yours make it possible to prep beforehand. Made sure i had all the tools/sizes before even starting. Like the little block to wedge in chain and the compensator nut size i just purchased. Thanks for the effort! I forgot to add spacer between stator and rotor....had a small ticking sound that made me panic that i ruined a bearing while adjusting primary. Took it all apart again, compared to old rotor and found the spacer stuck to old one. The new kit came?with one but i wanted to put it back together exactly how it came off....atleast i thought it came off
Dr. Crentist! Thank you so much for your thorough comment. It's so nice to see the videos are continuing to give others like you help by revealing just how easy it is to do some of these repairs. Congratulations on taking the risk to do that job yourself. Taking risk makes us powerful knowing we can accomplish more that what we imagined. Thank you again so much for your feedback. Feedback is a gift. 👍
I broke the nut loose using this procedure: 1.5" six-point socket, half-inch drive (Duralast). Get this at an auto parts store, hardware stores probably won't have it except in a set. 14" half-inch drive breaker bar (Craftsman). 2.5' jack handle from my Handy-Man jack. 1" square, 1/4" thick steel washer (Kindorf Superstrut). The last item is something laying around in my garage that seemed like it might work as a chain-locker. 1) Put transmission in 1st gear. 2) Put washer at chain-locker position in the video. 3) Put socket and breaker bar on the nut. 4) Took slack out of system by turning breaker bar counter-clockwise. 5) When the chain was locked, put the jack handle over the breaker bar about 4-6", almost straight-up vertical. 6) Pushed gently but very firmly CCW. The nut seemed to give a little, barely perceptible, about three times. Then she just broke loose, but not at knuckle-buster speed. The nut was still firm on the threads, but loose enough to get off as easily as shown in the video.
I recently replaced my stator on a tc88b. I was able to do it without removing the clutch assembly. I used silicone spray to install the wiring harness through the hole. It slid right in without any tools. Piece of cake.....
Mine is not coming off that easy, next option is impact, I'm a 160lb guy and torque spec is 150 to 165 ft lbs by the book, you make it look easy. I have an 05 ultra, even tried with a 2ft ext. On my 3/4 drive breaker, should I send it to the shop?
I use a four foot bar and a block of wood never had a problem and just as easy after you cut one to size and cut a few extra for next time. A real shallow 6 point oil filter socket fits perfect, like it was made just for that nut.Shallower the socket the better.
I AM HARLEY REPAIR STUPID!! I am changing my stator and this is a lifesaver!! Thank you so much...I owe you a cold beer. Or if you don't drink beer we'll make it a Coke!! Thanks again!!
Having a tough time taking my compensator nut off. Might end up buying a piece of pipe to add leverage, but I assume it hasn't been removed since it was put on in the factory 25 years ago. Replacing a shifter pawl assembly that the weld broke on, and the gearset needs to be pulled to put a new one in.
@ Tj - Not sure I follow. The what are the issues you are having. Bad compensator I believe would be related to a noisy clang in the primary when rolling on and off the throttle. (But not the only thing that would cause a that.) An improperly adjusted primary chain tensioner would do the same.
So I had a really stuck one... so bad that it bent my breaker bar... Here is what I did...get a propane torch and heat the very centre of the compensator nut for about 5 mins. I needs to get very hot to expand that dense steel nut enough to free it. Also you have a good 10 to 15 mins to keep trying to break it after that because the nut retains the heat and transfers it through the centre. I found once I had done that , I didnt need so much pressure or leverage to break the tension...good luck.
Very nice series of clips, really helped me out. Don't do what I did: Put everything back together after forgetting to remove the plastic block tool from the chain path! dumb mistake.
Why is there no apparent “spring action” of the compensator when you start to loosen the nut with the breaker bar? Is there not normally the play between the “cam” ( for lack of better word) before the nut/ cool pack cover rotates and meets full contact with the sprocket cam high point... hope I am explaining clearly... This setup is for shovel/ EVOS ... looked like the coil pack cover was solid and allowed for easy loosening of the nut in your video.
Thanks for the Videos! Always a big help! I am having the same problem as many others though, I can not get the compensator nut loose...... I have tried a big break over bar and an impact and still nothing. I did heat it up with a propane torch and it still didn't work. I didn't get it glowing hot or anything, because I didn't want to ruin any seals near by........ Any help would be great! Thanks!!!!
@gliderp - Yep, I have heard you can even roll a t-shirt tight and jamb it in there and that'll do the trick too. Me, I'm a military guy and would rather buy the right tool for the job and then loan it to a buddy, or help him with his own ride. The Part Number is: 16-0650 You can get it from me for about $15 shipped, or buy some other parts at the same time and we'll see if we can lower the price. As always, thank you so much for your comments.
@ironhorzmn - Yep, you are exactly correct; I hope I covered that on Stator Repair 1 of 9. And for whatever reason I seem to forget that each time I have to remove the outer cover. lol. Thank you for taking the time to post your comment. Kindly, Scott V-TwinOnline . com
I have 95 road king and cannot get the nut to to break in order to get it off. Used a crowbar and a jack cause I'm a old fart and still won't break loose. Are they all right hand thread. Help
@LudwigVonSpeedking - Thanks for taking the time to comment. I really appreciate your positve feedback and I am very glad I could help. Sometime we just need to watch what goes on behind the curtain. Cheers Brother! Scott V-TwinOnline . com
I am attempting to up my transmission output shaft from a keyed shaft to a splined shaft and no matter what the mainshaft nut will not come loose. Is it a left hand or right hand thread? Any help would be appreciated.
My compensating sprocket nut doesn't wanna come off. Must have some glue or something. Tomorrow I'll try with a pneumatic impact wrench... clutch leftty nut was a kind of easy...
I used an el-cheapo made in China screwdriver for locking it. One of those wonderful POS phillips that I used once, and the tip wore off. Plastic was ok though. One of these days I'm going to cut up a chunk of steel to lock the teeth diagonally. Not much to it really.
I loosened the chain adjuster. Although you and the manual says to do it, I think that there was too much slack and that is why it cracked my inner primary cover. FYI
famust T - 1) Make sure you are turning it the right direction [it happens]. 2) get a long pipe and use it to add leverage to your breaker bar. USE a breaker bar.ScottV-TwinOnline
I tried using a homemade locking tool made of wood similar to the one in the video. I could not budge the nut. Then I read the maintenance book for Touring Models 2010 (99483-10) and the book specifically states not to use a tool like that, instead the book says to use part HD-48219.
11 лет назад
prolly should have read some of the stuff below, maybe I wouldn't have been so frustrated. BUT Damn, when you've got a 12 inches breaker bar and you put a 4 foot piece of pipe on it and you're pushing it with 225 pounds of fat, you just get to feeling that something isn't right. BUT finally I felt just a tiny bit of give so went for more and more and finally got it.
Bryan ‐ you want to search for 16‐0650 primary locking tool. Or ... hd-41214 primary drive locking tool. I updated the description with this same info. Thanks for your question and good luck on your project. 👍
@LudwigVonSpeedking - Nope not for "compensator nut"... you are thinking of the "clutch main shaft nut". Search my channel, or RUclips, for the following: Stator Repair - 2 of 9 - Breaking the Compensator Nut Loose . You'll see what you need there. Sincerely, Scott V-TwinOnline . com
I have a 2008 rocker C. I'm cant for the life of me get that compensator nut loose!!! I'm afraid to strip the damn thing. I'm using the locking tool (like the one you use in your video). The manual, however, specifically says to use the locking bar and not the tool for the Rocker. Any suggestions? What size is that nut on the rocker c anyhow? Wanna make sure I'm using the correct size socket! Thanks for your help. This hang up is holding up my entire project.
@jasuscaredo - Thank you for getting back with us to let us know how things went. And THANK YOU for the specifications on the clutch and compensating nut. Good luck with the generator. Scott V-TwinOnline . com
Thanks a lot for the series of videos on this guys. Having a hard time with the compensator nut on my 93 FXRS-SP, actually bent my breaker bar on it last night..... So an impact driver is fine? I've read on some forums about it potentially damaging the flywheel.
That's the easiest compensator nut torque release I've ever seen. After decades of using much heavier duty impact wrenches, pipe extensions etc I found an inexpensive used torque multiplier and permanently solved the problem of wrasslin' stuck compensator nuts. Try this. Note the socket chamfer removal too as that works with any method. www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52958&page=5&p=816828&viewfull=1#post816828
Now this is a cool tool! Thank you for sharing this information! So many folks are having problems breaking this nut loose! This could be the key to solve all those problems 👍
ok i screwed i tryed to take the compenstor nut off and i starting to round the nut damn it i have tryed heat ive tryed everything i can think of damn shovel head all this because i need to rebuild the front rocker box i dont know what to do now im thinking of cutting the primery chain and taking the whole motor to someone to get that damn nut off help pls pls pls yes im begging any help would be great full
Chris Kuhl Good gosh Chirs! _ have hear of nightmares; especially with the shovel. That's because everyone is a mechanic and they have no idea what a torque wrench is! Please let us know what happened in the end.
Used today pneumatic wrench: was so fast that I didn't have chance to shoot it, sorry. Next step: generator rotor!! By the way (for Electra Glide FLHS 1989): socket for clutch basket is 1"-1/8 or 29mm. For compensating nut use 1"-1/2 or 36mm
@jasuscaredo - Good to hear the Clutch Nut came off easy. Looking forward to hearing what you find with the Compensator Nut. Your findings will help others. Please let us know what you find and what you did to correct the problem. Heck, grab a video if you can. :-) Thank you in advance,
1) Do you have photos? 2) If the nut is broken, how is it still on the shaft? 3) PLEASE tell us what you were doing that caused the nut to break so the rest of the readers do not repeat the unfortunate actions. --- Thank you in advance - Sorry to hear about your luck. Good Luck. Scott V-TwinOnline . com
@motorhead5367 - Damn! Sound like serious trouble. I have to say it, make sure you are turning correct direction (forgive me). Sounds like you are both victims of IMPROPER TORQ or, loctite (like) application procedures. My demonstration of removing comp-nut was not a “set-up”, it was just that easy. I would try tighten, then loosen; if no go… try heat. I caution steel bar, protect teeth on sprokets; pls keep in touch with findings. Sincerely, Scott V-TwinOnline . com
@Granitepro2000 - There are two options that I am aware of:
1) Impact Gun; which you have already tried;
2) a LONG pipe extension on the breaker bar. You'll need two people. One to hold the breaker bar and socket in place on the nut, and the second to push down on the additional leverage, a long pipe, you have added to the breaker bar.
MANUAL STATES: 2 drops Locktite 262 (Red) and torque to 150-165 lbs. Let us know how things go. Good Luck. Scott V-TwinOnline . com
I'm having a bitch of a time loosening the compensator nut. I bought a primary locking tool. The one used in the video. Well, the locking tool, cracks at the first step, which then cracks my inner primary cover. Still didn't loosen the nut. FML
@jammin2exodus - Sounds a bit strange. I have come to learn that there are a lot of things folks do out there that are not in accordance with the manual. Heck, someone who's pissed-off because their compensator nut came lose once (because they didn't make use of a torque wrench during assembly) may have used super glue to keep the compensator nut from coming off ever again. Take a short video, or pic, of what is happening and send it to me: VTwinOnline@gmail.com Scott Try Heat
Funny, 380k views on an 11 year old vid...and you still respond to comments/questions - thanks man that’s awesome! Happy New Year!
My pleasure my friend.
Happy New Year!
I just now tried to bust the compensator nut loose with a 15" breaker bar with a 2ft pipe cheater bar over it and it didn’t budge, ...broke my step locking tool 😮.
Is it ok to use an impact air tool or might that affect the crank, bearings, and such with a hammering affect?
Hey, too many videos to thank you on every one, but thanks for the effort! Tackled this job myself (96 fatboy), turned out great.
Videos like yours make it possible to prep beforehand. Made sure i had all the tools/sizes before even starting. Like the little block to wedge in chain and the compensator nut size i just purchased.
Thanks for the effort!
I forgot to add spacer between stator and rotor....had a small ticking sound that made me panic that i ruined a bearing while adjusting primary.
Took it all apart again, compared to old rotor and found the spacer stuck to old one. The new kit came?with one but i wanted to put it back together exactly how it came off....atleast i thought it came off
Dr. Crentist!
Thank you so much for your thorough comment. It's so nice to see the videos are continuing to give others like you help by revealing just how easy it is to do some of these repairs.
Congratulations on taking the risk to do that job yourself. Taking risk makes us powerful knowing we can accomplish more that what we imagined.
Thank you again so much for your feedback. Feedback is a gift. 👍
I broke the nut loose using this procedure:
1.5" six-point socket, half-inch drive (Duralast). Get this at an auto parts store, hardware stores probably won't have it except in a set.
14" half-inch drive breaker bar (Craftsman).
2.5' jack handle from my Handy-Man jack.
1" square, 1/4" thick steel washer (Kindorf Superstrut).
The last item is something laying around in my garage that seemed like it might work as a chain-locker.
1) Put transmission in 1st gear.
2) Put washer at chain-locker position in the video.
3) Put socket and breaker bar on the nut.
4) Took slack out of system by turning breaker bar counter-clockwise.
5) When the chain was locked, put the jack handle over the breaker bar about 4-6", almost straight-up vertical.
6) Pushed gently but very firmly CCW. The nut seemed to give a little, barely perceptible, about three times. Then she just broke loose, but not at knuckle-buster speed. The nut was still firm on the threads, but loose enough to get off as easily as shown in the video.
I recently replaced my stator on a tc88b. I was able to do it without removing the clutch assembly. I used silicone spray to install the wiring harness through the hole. It slid right in without any tools. Piece of cake.....
Thank you for sharing your experience Bull.
Did you replace it with a factory or aftermarket part.
Thanks,
Scott
OEM part.
Mine is not coming off that easy, next option is impact, I'm a 160lb guy and torque spec is 150 to 165 ft lbs by the book, you make it look easy. I have an 05 ultra, even tried with a 2ft ext. On my 3/4 drive breaker, should I send it to the shop?
I use a four foot bar and a block of wood never had a problem and just as easy after you cut one to size and cut a few extra for next time. A real shallow 6 point oil filter socket fits perfect, like it was made just for that nut.Shallower the socket the better.
Helped me in hints to hold from turning and how tight on bolts. Thank u
You bet! So glad I could help, and thank you for taking the time to comment.
this video helped me big time. saved me money too by not having to take the bike to the shop.
thank you for making these vids, it gave me the confidence to work on my bike.
I AM HARLEY REPAIR STUPID!! I am changing my stator and this is a lifesaver!! Thank you so much...I owe you a cold beer. Or if you don't drink beer we'll make it a Coke!! Thanks again!!
Having a tough time taking my compensator nut off. Might end up buying a piece of pipe to add leverage, but I assume it hasn't been removed since it was put on in the factory 25 years ago.
Replacing a shifter pawl assembly that the weld broke on, and the gearset needs to be pulled to put a new one in.
Jon, how did everything work out?
@ Tj - Not sure I follow. The what are the issues you are having. Bad compensator I believe would be related to a noisy clang in the primary when rolling on and off the throttle. (But not the only thing that would cause a that.) An improperly adjusted primary chain tensioner would do the same.
So I had a really stuck one... so bad that it bent my breaker bar... Here is what I did...get a propane torch and heat the very centre of the compensator nut for about 5 mins. I needs to get very hot to expand that dense steel nut enough to free it. Also you have a good 10 to 15 mins to keep trying to break it after that because the nut retains the heat and transfers it through the centre. I found once I had done that , I didnt need so much pressure or leverage to break the tension...good luck.
Very nice series of clips, really helped me out. Don't do what I did: Put everything back together after forgetting to remove the plastic block tool from the chain path! dumb mistake.
@@uscglgcncoe1206 Thanks. Everything worked out fine. When the motor would not turn over, I quickly realized my mistake. Bike runs great now.
I'll give the long pipe on a breaker bar a try! Thanks!!!
@metaloldman - Thanks Bro... Glad you liked it. Thanks for your comments.
Be Safe,
Scott
Why is there no apparent “spring action” of the compensator when you start to loosen the nut with the breaker bar? Is there not normally the play between the “cam” ( for lack of better word) before the nut/ cool pack cover rotates and meets full contact with the sprocket cam high point... hope I am explaining clearly...
This setup is for shovel/ EVOS ...
looked like the coil pack cover was solid and allowed for easy loosening of the nut in your video.
Thanks for the Videos! Always a big help! I am having the same problem as many others though, I can not get the compensator nut loose...... I have tried a big break over bar and an impact and still nothing. I did heat it up with a propane torch and it still didn't work. I didn't get it glowing hot or anything, because I didn't want to ruin any seals near by........ Any help would be great! Thanks!!!!
@gliderp - Yep, I have heard you can even roll a t-shirt tight and jamb it in there and that'll do the trick too. Me, I'm a military guy and would rather buy the right tool for the job and then loan it to a buddy, or help him with his own ride.
The Part Number is: 16-0650 You can get it from me for about $15 shipped, or buy some other parts at the same time and we'll see if we can lower the price.
As always, thank you so much for your comments.
@ Murry - Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! I greatly appreciate you sharing your experience.
Kindly,
Scott
How does one tell if their compensator is the culprit? Will there be visible wear somewhere? See my video response.
@ironhorzmn - Yep, you are exactly correct; I hope I covered that on Stator Repair 1 of 9. And for whatever reason I seem to forget that each time I have to remove the outer cover. lol.
Thank you for taking the time to post your comment.
Kindly,
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
cant get mine off even with breaker bar? help
I have 95 road king and cannot get the nut to to break in order to get it off. Used a crowbar and a jack cause I'm a old fart and still won't break loose. Are they all right hand thread. Help
Rob, Many folks have had success with the addition of heat. Good luck brother.
my chain seems to be loose even with tensioner all the way up i see that there is a second set of holes on tensioner can i use them
Mine was not that loose.
Had the chain eating the lock tool.
Impact gun
@ Mike, how did things go with the long pipe?
@LudwigVonSpeedking - Thanks for taking the time to comment. I really appreciate your positve feedback and I am very glad I could help. Sometime we just need to watch what goes on behind the curtain.
Cheers Brother!
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
I suppose that wasn't with having Loctite 262 on it??
My service manual has a warning ⚠️ not to use the locking tool you are using due to damage that can happen. You must use the locking bar only!
Great point. Thank you Harley. 👍
I am attempting to up my transmission output shaft from a keyed shaft to a splined shaft and no matter what the mainshaft nut will not come loose. Is it a left hand or right hand thread? Any help would be appreciated.
My compensating sprocket nut doesn't wanna come off.
Must have some glue or something. Tomorrow I'll try with a pneumatic impact wrench...
clutch leftty nut was a kind of easy...
I have a 2004 road king what size in the compensator nut. My 1-1/2 is to small
Ok, so I broke the comp. Nut. Now how do I get it off the crank shaft? Can j cut the spline thing?
I used an el-cheapo made in China screwdriver for locking it. One of those wonderful POS phillips that I used once, and the tip wore off. Plastic was ok though.
One of these days I'm going to cut up a chunk of steel to lock the teeth diagonally. Not much to it really.
I loosened the chain adjuster. Although you and the manual says to do it, I think that there was too much slack and that is why it cracked my inner primary cover. FYI
Where do I get that block tool
@ Toby, - It did have Loctite on it, but I am not sure if it had long enough time to set up.
Scott
comp. bolt is one tight mo fo I don't have a torch to heat it any other advice on getting it loose
famust T - 1) Make sure you are turning it the right direction [it happens]. 2) get a long pipe and use it to add leverage to your breaker bar. USE a breaker bar.ScottV-TwinOnline
I tried using a homemade locking tool made of wood similar to the one in the video. I could not budge the nut. Then I read the maintenance book for Touring Models 2010 (99483-10) and the book specifically states not to use a tool like that, instead the book says to use part HD-48219.
prolly should have read some of the stuff below, maybe I wouldn't have been so frustrated. BUT Damn, when you've got a 12 inches breaker bar and you put a 4 foot piece of pipe on it and you're pushing it with 225 pounds of fat, you just get to feeling that something isn't right. BUT finally I felt just a tiny bit of give so went for more and more and finally got it.
Congratulations Warren. Thank you so much for getting back and letting us know your success.
How would or should I say how can you remove a broken stator nut. I broke the nut head off
Niles - sorry for late response. Unfortunately I have not run into that issue. Please let us know what happened.
Where do we get that 10.00 piece ? Be nice to know
Bryan ‐ you want to search for 16‐0650 primary locking tool. Or ... hd-41214 primary drive locking tool.
I updated the description with this same info.
Thanks for your question and good luck on your project. 👍
@LudwigVonSpeedking - Nope not for "compensator nut"... you are thinking of the "clutch main shaft nut". Search my channel, or RUclips, for the following:
Stator Repair - 2 of 9 - Breaking the Compensator Nut Loose .
You'll see what you need there.
Sincerely,
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
YIPPEE....He finally got it off !!! Electric Impact Wrench.... He's a happy camper now... Thanks anyway
Bonny Brown - AWESOME! Thank you Bonny for sharing your personal experience. It helps the channel grow.
@ Jose - How did things go?
I have a 2008 rocker C. I'm cant for the life of me get that compensator nut loose!!! I'm afraid to strip the damn thing.
I'm using the locking tool (like the one you use in your video). The manual, however, specifically says to use the locking bar and not the tool for the Rocker.
Any suggestions? What size is that nut on the rocker c anyhow? Wanna make sure I'm using the correct size socket!
Thanks for your help. This hang up is holding up my entire project.
@jasuscaredo - Thank you for getting back with us to let us know how things went. And THANK YOU for the specifications on the clutch and compensating nut.
Good luck with the generator.
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
Is red locktite in there, you should heat the bolt with a torch first.
Metatron - thanks for sharing your experience. 👍
my husband just can not break the compensator nut loose...tried beaker bar, heat etc..any other tricks ?
Bonny Brown That thing is a pain, huh!?
Use a breaker bar with a long pipe on the end this will give him leverage and power.
Im not sure on the new bikes but the older Harleys the compensator nut was a left hand nut
Great video! Thank you!
Thanks a lot for the series of videos on this guys.
Having a hard time with the compensator nut on my 93 FXRS-SP, actually bent my breaker bar on it last night.....
So an impact driver is fine? I've read on some forums about it potentially damaging the flywheel.
Sean, thank you so much for providing your input. It is absolutely appreciated.
Sincerely,
Scott
Got it off last night with a 280-Foot LB Electric Impact Driver!
sean connelly - nice! Thanks for getting back with us Sean. Nice work!
I agree I had a bitch of a time and still haven't gotten it off - how di you finally get it off?
Thanks
That's the easiest compensator nut torque release I've ever seen. After decades of using much heavier duty impact wrenches, pipe extensions etc I found an inexpensive used torque multiplier and permanently solved the problem of wrasslin' stuck compensator nuts. Try this. Note the socket chamfer removal too as that works with any method.
www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52958&page=5&p=816828&viewfull=1#post816828
Now this is a cool tool! Thank you for sharing this information! So many folks are having problems breaking this nut loose! This could be the key to solve all those problems 👍
ok i screwed i tryed to take the compenstor nut off and i starting to round the nut damn it i have tryed heat ive tryed everything i can think of damn shovel head all this because i need to rebuild the front rocker box i dont know what to do now im thinking of cutting the primery chain and taking the whole motor to someone to get that damn nut off help pls pls pls yes im begging any help would be great full
Chris Kuhl Good gosh Chirs! _ have hear of nightmares; especially with the shovel. That's because everyone is a mechanic and they have no idea what a torque wrench is! Please let us know what happened in the end.
But I thought that was a reverse threaded nut??? No?
Used today pneumatic wrench: was so fast that I didn't have chance to shoot it, sorry.
Next step: generator rotor!!
By the way (for Electra Glide FLHS 1989): socket for clutch basket is 1"-1/8 or
29mm. For compensating nut use 1"-1/2 or 36mm
@jasuscaredo - Good to hear the Clutch Nut came off easy. Looking forward to hearing what you find with the Compensator Nut. Your findings will help others. Please let us know what you find and what you did to correct the problem.
Heck, grab a video if you can. :-)
Thank you in advance,
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
thank you......................
Holy Toledo! What the heck happened....
1) Do you have photos?
2) If the nut is broken, how is it still on the shaft?
3) PLEASE tell us what you were doing that caused the nut to break so the rest of the readers do not repeat the unfortunate actions.
---
Thank you in advance - Sorry to hear about your luck.
Good Luck.
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
@motorhead5367 - Damn! Sound like serious trouble. I have to say it, make sure you are turning correct direction (forgive me).
Sounds like you are both victims of IMPROPER TORQ or, loctite (like) application procedures.
My demonstration of removing comp-nut was not a “set-up”, it was just that easy.
I would try tighten, then loosen; if no go… try heat.
I caution steel bar, protect teeth on sprokets; pls keep in touch with findings.
Sincerely,
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
DO Not use an impact wrench
Wish I could click Like on this AGAIN!
@Granitepro2000 - There are two options that I am aware of:
1) Impact Gun; which you have already tried;
2) a LONG pipe extension on the breaker bar. You'll need two people. One to hold the breaker bar and socket in place on the nut, and the second to push down on the additional leverage, a long pipe, you have added to the breaker bar.
MANUAL STATES: 2 drops Locktite 262 (Red) and torque to 150-165 lbs.
Let us know how things go.
Good Luck.
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
I'm having a bitch of a time loosening the compensator nut. I bought a primary locking tool. The one used in the video. Well, the locking tool, cracks at the first step, which then cracks my inner primary cover. Still didn't loosen the nut. FML
@jammin2exodus - Sounds a bit strange. I have come to learn that there are a lot of things folks do out there that are not in accordance with the manual.
Heck, someone who's pissed-off because their compensator nut came lose once (because they didn't make use of a torque wrench during assembly) may have used super glue to keep the compensator nut from coming off ever again.
Take a short video, or pic, of what is happening and send it to me: VTwinOnline@gmail.com
Scott
Try Heat