Nice video, it's a treat to watch without a running commentary by someone with oral incontinence. It's good to see that access is easy, didn't take long either & should be done in 1 hour by any competent mechanic using genuine Vauxhall parts of course.
Agreed! I am also not a fan of the constant talking or annoying music on RUclips videos hence why I decided to do my videos this way. I’m glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the comment! 😁👨🏼🔧 Andy
@8:15 if the torque reading says anything like + however many degrees it usually means it's a 'torque to yield' bolt. The bolt needs to be replaced as well.
@@AMSVauxhall its not a recommendation. Its an instruction. Replacing it is not optional. Tighening the bolt a second time will stretch it too much and it will not be reliable.
I just did this on a Corsa C 1.0 and it was an alright job. I don't have any E spanners, only sockets, so I took the engine mount off. Though as I was doing this on a slopy gravel drive with axle stands I think I'd have ended up taking it off anyway, it makes it so much easier. Thanks for the great video.
@@danielchristianweber9823 yes but you will need a timing lock kit. There is a T55 torx bolt on the front of the block. Remove that and insert the crank lock tool into the groove and then you can loosen and torque up the crank pulley bolt. If you get a Haynes manual it will likely go through the procedure in there Andy 👨🏼🔧
@@Adamsalih-88 there is a T55 bung on the front of the engine block near the timing chain. If you remove the bing you can insert the crank locking pin and that will hold it while you use a breaker bar on the crank bolt 😁 Andy👨🏼🔧
Hello, great tutorial. Do you know if it is the same for an ecotec 1.6L engine as well ? just trying to figure out if anything other than the crank pully should be removed to enable the crank seal replacement.
Excellent video, is a crankshaft locking tool required to do this job? As i need to do this to my corsa, but dont want to risk slipping the timing, could you help me out please? Thanks
You will need to lock the engine if you don’t have an impact gun to remove the crank bolt. If you have to lock engine, you will need to remove the starter motor to access the flywheel Andy👨🏼🔧
But can you be more exacly ?:)) Becouse I see i some solution that you have in more cantitative, i hate use spray tube , becouse last a little and is very expensiv if you buy more .
Great video! I need to replace mine. I've seen on another similar video, that the engine was locked by putting the car in 5th gear and wedging the brake pedal right down. Do you think that would do the job, in terms of locking up the engine. I ask, as I only have standard tools for the job and not an impact gun. Thanks
Thanks for the comment buddy! That method won’t work I’m afraid. There are some horrible techniques out there that you could do, none that I would recommend. It’s either an impact gun or remove the starter motor and lock the flywheel. I’m sure you could hire one or possibly borrow one? Andy👨🏼🔧
No definitely don’t do this just to remove excess oil. Just pull the sump plug out and put it back in when you think you have drained enough. You will only get an oily hand at worst. Andy 👨🏼🔧
@AMSVauxhall thanks for the reply, I've done oil change and filter , after doing loads over the yrs , I think I cocked up lol got my measurements wrong and seen if there is an overfill in can get into the crankshaft, if I just drop some oil out will that also remove any from the crankshaft ?
Hey Good vid just a quick question when doing the crankbolt back up can I not use a torque wrench rather than an impact gun as mine doesn’t have the option to change nm ? Thanks
Hi buddy! Yes a torque wrench would be the preferred method with a new crank bolt but you will need to lock the engine from turning. Which means you will need to remove the starter motor and lock the flywheel. Andy👨🏼🔧
So there is no need for timing because one of the machanic said to me "you can't do it yourself because of timing after replacement of the seal". The way I look on this video there is no need for timing which I can now do it my self?
Do you know what the part name is for the item that goes into the oil seal 10.34 in video and the crank bolts onto. I need to source one. Thanks again a good video.
Hi Last year I changed the oil seal when I came to remove the pulley there were only 3 bolts holding it on the reason being the corner of the part had broken off, As I had to have the car I replaced the seal, since then I have been trying to source the part but not knowing the part name has been a challenge, even our local dealer unable to help part not listed. The seal has started to leak again, and ideal time to now get the part. KR John.
@@AMSVauxhall sorry I did not mention its for a 1.3 dti C Corsa. Thank you for looking. Now I know part name I may get somewhere now. Only 4 bolts holding it on.
Hello Andy, thank you for the video, very helpful indeed. I too think I have a leaking seal in my corsa d. However my impact wrench (a Dewalt DCF899) has a lowest torque setting at 135 Nm. Do you think that tightening it to 135 instead of 150 Nm would be risky? The next torque setting is 400 Nm, would that damage the bolt by overtightening it? If I need to use a torque wrench to go to exactly 150 Nm, can you give a hint on how to lock the flywheel after removing the starter? Thanks a lot again.
The correct torque setting is 150NM + 45 degrees so ideally you want it at 150 but you will be ok with 135NM if you use a new bolt. If you can’t undo the bolt with an impact gun then you will have to lock the engine which means removing the starter and locking the flywheel ring gear. You can do this by jamming a pry bar or a strong screwdriver in until it wedges itself again the gearbox and the same to tighten the crank bolt back up. Andy👨🏼🔧
Hi Andy! I have had my seal replaced twice now (astra h 1.4 '08) but it just started leaking again😔 I suspect is that flange that is bolted into crankshaft where pulley wheel sits and it looks like it runs in that seal. Would you be able advice how to find this part as I cant find it anywhere , is the only thing that I may think of that may be worn out and is constantly damaging seal. Thanks!
Hi buddy, I think the part you are after is the Crank pulley sleeve which the crank pulley bolts to and it also drives the oil pump too. I’ve never seen or heard of one of these failing. I would double check the timing cover is t damaged where the seal sits and it is properly clean along with a quality crank seal. Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall thanks for answer ! Both times seal was done by garage , no one mentioned any damage to cover , hence I suspect this sleeve this time . Obviously you are using all tools required for the job .Lets Say I dont have impact gun and would be using '' classic '' methods , is there any risk with undoing main bolt with human force and bit of extension ? thanks!
@@foxhuntereu removing the crank bolt will be the only challenge but you will need to lock the engine which would mean removing the starter motor so you can lock the flywheel. There are videos on RUclips of people jamming the breaker bar against the floor and giving the key a “flick” to break loose the crank bolt but I wouldn’t advise this method. Andy👨🏼🔧
Great video thanks for posting, I have a 1.9cdti zafira that I think needs the crank seal replaced, is it as straight forward as this or will timing belt need to be removed?
Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the comment 🤗 yes you will need to remove the timing belt to get to yours but the 1.9 CDTI timing belts are one of the easiest to do 😁 Andy 👨🏼🔧
@@markygti1 pretty straight forward yours. Plenty videos on RUclips too and the locking kit is only £25 on eBay. Plus the new belt has marks on it to line up so you can’t really go wrong buddy Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall sadly the belt hasn’t long been done, about 1 yr ish, would I get away with loosening the tensioner and take the belt off the crank pulley?, cable tie the belt in place on the other pulleys?
@@markygti1 it’s always good practice to replace the crank seal when the belt is done but ye you could cable tie it in place. I would prob lock the cam just for extra precaution but as long as you mark everything up it should be fine. If you aren’t confident then a garage shouldn’t be anymore than 2 hours to replace it Andy👨🏼🔧
Hi Eddy, yes it is a similar process on the 1.3 CDTI. I don’t know the torque settings off the top of my head but you can purchase a Haynes manual that would give you those a details 😁 Andy👨🏼🔧
@@Eddy-th3kc yes if you are torquing it to spec as there will be a NM figure followed by an degree angle. If you buy a timing tool kit there will be a crank pin that makes it easy or you could go down the generic garage / mechanic route and blast the crank bolt on with an impact gun. (I don’t recommend this though) Andy👨🏼🔧
thank you for taking time to post this super video.i have the same leak on my corsa c, im a bit scared to do it,i havent got impact wrench .any idea using other tools than impact wrench, also there is a leak in other side under coolant tank,but im sure not coolant leak.any advice thank you so much
TheHamouda don’t be scared buddy, this is a pretty straightforward job. I would strongly recommend buying an impact gun if you don’t have an air compressor / gun. The only other option would be to remove the starter motor and lock the flywheel. 😁👨🏼🔧 Andy
There is a T55 screw on the front of the block just above the sump, if you have the timing lock kit you can put the crank lock tool into the cut out on the crank. Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall Great, thank you. Presumably, if I don't have the timing lock kit I can get someone to hold the T55 screw still with a breaker bar whilst I torque the crank bolt on the other side of the engine?
@@stevenewton4508 the T55 screw is just a cover bolt so nothing to hold onto. You could potentially slide an extension bar in the cut out but the timing lock kit is £15 on eBay
You can lock the crank if you don’t have an impact gun yes. There is a T55 torx plug on the lower front of engine just above the sump to remove and then you can slide in the lock pin. Andy👨🏼🔧
If you don’t have an impact gun you will need the timing chain lock tool kit. In the kit is a large lock pin that slips into a cut out in the crankshaft. There is a T55 screw in the front of the engine block just above the sump and toward the timing chain side. Undo the T55 plug and the tool slips in there. Rotate the crank by hand until you can feel it slip into the cutout Andy 👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall thanks for that Andy and appreciate you getting back to me, I ordered the kit on Amazon and came next day, finally got the kit on and the bolt out etc. fingers crossed 🤞 putting everything back to get is going to go smoothly as I’m currently replacing all seals and gaskets etc :)
Hi, could you share with us the 3 dimensions (external diameter, internal diameter and thickness) of the oil seal or, if you know it, the code of the genuine part? Thank you, very good video
Thanks for the comment! Much appreciated ☺️ I don’t know the part number sorry. I use motor factors for parts so I just need to give a reg number and trust them to source me the correct part. They are readily available on eBay though, I used a FEBI seal but there are plenty other makes available. If you can’t get a genuine GM seal, I’d go for victor reinz and then FEBI Andy 👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall if Opel parts leaks at relatively short mileage, no reason to buy it from Opel. It is better to get better seals from Toyota supliers (NOK, TRP). Felpro, REINZ, AND Ajusa are reboxer, the rubber may made by other companies.
@@rondhole Oil leaks are not really to do with mileage, it’s more the age of the rubber. Gaskets and seals don’t last forever. You can of course prolong the wear by cleaning and regular maintenance but eventually they will need replaced. Most GM seals / gaskets are made by victor reinz just with a GM stamp Andy👨🏼🔧
You will need to remove the starter motor and then jam a strong screwdriver or pry bar between the flywheel teeth. Much easier and quicker to use an impact gun though Andy👨🏼🔧
Transmission ends= rear seals. That's pain in the rear job. This crank seals is much easier and cheaper labor wise. Rear seals cost you more than 8 h labor
@@AMSVauxhall is it really common for Opel engines to leak below 100k miles? My roomate has 1.0L turbo Astra K, and it starts dripping oil right below AC compressor area.
Yes manufacturer’s do recommend replacing the crank bolt as they do with 80% of bolts on a car but it’s up to you if you want to replace it. I’ve been a mechanic for 20+ years and experienced to know when to replace certain parts. I only replace them when doing a timing belt / chain and / or engine rebuild. Please note - This is not a “how to” video. I just enjoy making videos of jobs I do. Andy
@@AMSVauxhall I agree, most of the time the bolts are fine. Only head gasket bolts are not reusable in my opinion. Other bolts do not have really large torque like head gasket bolts.
@Melissa Money If you don't have an impact gun like the one he undoes/does up the crank bolt with then you'd need to lock the crank/flywheel still so you can tun the bolt without turning the engine. I don't know _exactly_ how you'd lock it on these engines. I'd imagine it would involve taking the starter off and either pinning the flywheel or using a special tool to engage on the ring gear. A pikey way could involve putting the car in gear and have somebody step on the brakes but I couldn't recommend it.. The 45 degree it means you do the bolt up to the specified torque and then turn it a further 45 degrees from there.
Would it be possible to torque down the center bolt by gripping the pulley with an old belt like the example in the link attached? ruclips.net/video/bghh47pBDMA/видео.htmlsi=TQYWVhmFGsNqwd5H
Nice video, it's a treat to watch without a running commentary by someone with oral incontinence.
It's good to see that access is easy, didn't take long either & should be done in 1 hour by any competent mechanic using genuine Vauxhall parts of course.
Agreed! I am also not a fan of the constant talking or annoying music on RUclips videos hence why I decided to do my videos this way.
I’m glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the comment! 😁👨🏼🔧
Andy
Great camera work very easy to see what youre doing very helpful for somebody like myself who is inexperienced with car repair
You don't need to remove the six bolts securing the pulley. Only the central bolt does the job ;)
Thanks for the detailed steps, currently got the same problem on a Chevrolet Spin 1.2 with the A12XER engine 😅
@8:15 if the torque reading says anything like + however many degrees it usually means it's a 'torque to yield' bolt. The bolt needs to be replaced as well.
I have said in previous comments that the manufacturer recommends replacing the bolt.
Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall good going, you're a good mechanic
@@AMSVauxhall its not a recommendation. Its an instruction. Replacing it is not optional. Tighening the bolt a second time will stretch it too much and it will not be reliable.
very clear step by step video i have the astra h 1.7 diesel is this the same procedure for that thanks
I’m afraid not. Your timing belt will need removed to get the the crank seal
Andy👨🏼🔧
I just did this on a Corsa C 1.0 and it was an alright job.
I don't have any E spanners, only sockets, so I took the engine mount off. Though as I was doing this on a slopy gravel drive with axle stands I think I'd have ended up taking it off anyway, it makes it so much easier.
Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for the comment buddy, much appreciated!😊 I’m glad it helped you to get yours sorted 💪🏻
Andy👨🏼🔧
Thank you for the video. Do you know a good way to loosen the bolt without an impact gun?
@@danielchristianweber9823 yes but you will need a timing lock kit. There is a T55 torx bolt on the front of the block. Remove that and insert the crank lock tool into the groove and then you can loosen and torque up the crank pulley bolt. If you get a Haynes manual it will likely go through the procedure in there
Andy 👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall I see. Thank you.
Great vid thanks, i used this step by step on my astra and worked perfectly 👍👍
Excellent! Glad you got yours sorted 💪🏻 thanks for the comment, much appreciated 😊
Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall hi Andy I don’t have impact gun how can remove the crank bolt? Thanks
@@Adamsalih-88 there is a T55 bung on the front of the engine block near the timing chain. If you remove the bing you can insert the crank locking pin and that will hold it while you use a breaker bar on the crank bolt 😁
Andy👨🏼🔧
Thank you mate. very neat, clear, and simple vid.
Clyde Andrews thanks very much buddy ☺️
Hello, great tutorial. Do you know if it is the same for an ecotec 1.6L engine as well ? just trying to figure out if anything other than the crank pully should be removed to enable the crank seal replacement.
Thanks for watching! On the 1.6 you will have to removed the timing belt to access the crank seal.
Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall THX, till today i was sure it has a timing chain ! (1.6L 124BHP)
@@yosid100 def a belt buddy
I have same issues but I have Corsa E 1.3cdti. I dunno it's going to fit that? Good job nice video
Excellent video, is a crankshaft locking tool required to do this job? As i need to do this to my corsa, but dont want to risk slipping the timing, could you help me out please? Thanks
You will need to lock the engine if you don’t have an impact gun to remove the crank bolt. If you have to lock engine, you will need to remove the starter motor to access the flywheel
Andy👨🏼🔧
hello , what solution do you use here 5:11 ? greath video thank you
Hello, it is brake cleaner.
Thanks for the comment buddy!
Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall thank you so much
But can you be more exacly ?:))
Becouse I see i some solution that you have in more cantitative, i hate use spray tube , becouse last a little and is very expensiv if you buy more .
@@jupanul8052 brake fluid is expensive but it’s what I use. It’s only for cleaning so you can used any cleaning agent really
@@AMSVauxhall thank you so much , I got it
Hi, thank you for video. Very helpful.
Can I ask, do you know if this is the same for the 1.3cdti engine?
Thank you
Hi John, yes it is very similar 😁
Andy👨🏼🔧
Great video! I need to replace mine. I've seen on another similar video, that the engine was locked by putting the car in 5th gear and wedging the brake pedal right down. Do you think that would do the job, in terms of locking up the engine. I ask, as I only have standard tools for the job and not an impact gun. Thanks
Thanks for the comment buddy! That method won’t work I’m afraid. There are some horrible techniques out there that you could do, none that I would recommend. It’s either an impact gun or remove the starter motor and lock the flywheel. I’m sure you could hire one or possibly borrow one?
Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall Thanks, I really appreciate that. I'll definitely try and source a locking tool for the job now. Nice one! Cheers 🙂
Hi awesome video, Is this the same way on the Astra h 18 vvt or would the timing belt need to come off aswel.
Thanks 👍
@@DIGGER-D12 thanks buddy! 😊
Unfortunately the timing belt will need removed on the 1.8 to access the crank seal
Andy 👨🏼🔧
Thank u so much could I attempt this with just a jack and axle stands I don’t have a lift
Yes this job is easily achievable on axle stands 😊
Andy👨🏼🔧
Can this be done to remove excess oil from the crankshaft if there was an engine oil overfill?
No definitely don’t do this just to remove excess oil. Just pull the sump plug out and put it back in when you think you have drained enough. You will only get an oily hand at worst.
Andy 👨🏼🔧
@AMSVauxhall thanks for the reply, I've done oil change and filter , after doing loads over the yrs , I think I cocked up lol got my measurements wrong and seen if there is an overfill in can get into the crankshaft, if I just drop some oil out will that also remove any from the crankshaft ?
Great video mate thanks a lot
Not a bother buddy! Glad it helps you out ☺️
Andy
Hey Good vid just a quick question when doing the crankbolt back up can I not use a torque wrench rather than an impact gun as mine doesn’t have the option to change nm ? Thanks
Hi buddy! Yes a torque wrench would be the preferred method with a new crank bolt but you will need to lock the engine from turning. Which means you will need to remove the starter motor and lock the flywheel.
Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall hey thanks would I get away with leaving the car in gear and jamming the brake on instead thanks
@@dukesdailydiaries9747 afraid not, it will still turn the engine
@@AMSVauxhall thanks mate I’ll make a start on it 👍
So there is no need for timing because one of the machanic said to me "you can't do it yourself because of timing after replacement of the seal". The way I look on this video there is no need for timing which I can now do it my self?
This job can easily be done at home and you do not interfere with the timing at all
Andy 👨🏼🔧
Do you know what the part name is for the item that goes into the oil seal 10.34 in video and the crank bolts onto. I need to source one. Thanks again a good video.
I call it a crank pulley sleeve for the oil pump. Can I ask why you need to source one? Thanks for the comment, much appreciated ☺️👨🏼🔧
Andy
Hi Last year I changed the oil seal when I came to remove the pulley there were only 3 bolts holding it on the reason being the corner of the part had broken off, As I had to have the car I replaced the seal, since then I have been trying to source the part but not knowing the part name has been a challenge, even our local dealer unable to help part not listed. The seal has started to leak again, and ideal time to now get the part. KR John.
@@TheJohnclive021 there is a couple on eBay if you are in the UK?
@@TheJohnclive021 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233810768974
@@AMSVauxhall sorry I did not mention its for a 1.3 dti C Corsa. Thank you for looking. Now I know part name I may get somewhere now. Only 4 bolts holding it on.
hi is this process same for astra j 2013 model 1.4 L , thank you
@@lovenature1801 yes very similar
Hello Andy, thank you for the video, very helpful indeed. I too think I have a leaking seal in my corsa d. However my impact wrench (a Dewalt DCF899) has a lowest torque setting at 135 Nm. Do you think that tightening it to 135 instead of 150 Nm would be risky? The next torque setting is 400 Nm, would that damage the bolt by overtightening it? If I need to use a torque wrench to go to exactly 150 Nm, can you give a hint on how to lock the flywheel after removing the starter?
Thanks a lot again.
The correct torque setting is 150NM + 45 degrees so ideally you want it at 150 but you will be ok with 135NM if you use a new bolt. If you can’t undo the bolt with an impact gun then you will have to lock the engine which means removing the starter and locking the flywheel ring gear. You can do this by jamming a pry bar or a strong screwdriver in until it wedges itself again the gearbox and the same to tighten the crank bolt back up.
Andy👨🏼🔧
Hi Andy! I have had my seal replaced twice now (astra h 1.4 '08) but it just started leaking again😔 I suspect is that flange that is bolted into crankshaft where pulley wheel sits and it looks like it runs in that seal. Would you be able advice how to find this part as I cant find it anywhere , is the only thing that I may think of that may be worn out and is constantly damaging seal. Thanks!
Hi buddy, I think the part you are after is the Crank pulley sleeve which the crank pulley bolts to and it also drives the oil pump too. I’ve never seen or heard of one of these failing. I would double check the timing cover is t damaged where the seal sits and it is properly clean along with a quality crank seal.
Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall thanks for answer ! Both times seal was done by garage , no one mentioned any damage to cover , hence I suspect this sleeve this time . Obviously you are using all tools required for the job .Lets Say I dont have impact gun and would be using '' classic '' methods , is there any risk with undoing main bolt with human force and bit of extension ? thanks!
@@foxhuntereu removing the crank bolt will be the only challenge but you will need to lock the engine which would mean removing the starter motor so you can lock the flywheel. There are videos on RUclips of people jamming the breaker bar against the floor and giving the key a “flick” to break loose the crank bolt but I wouldn’t advise this method.
Andy👨🏼🔧
Hi, do you have a chirping like sound coming from that area we're the seal is leaking?
Great thanks! Will sort out the mrs leaking seal at the weekend 👀😂😂
🙊😂😂😂
Hi Mate, what size is the center single cranshaft pulley bolt, is it E 14 ??
E18 buddy
Great video thanks for posting, I have a 1.9cdti zafira that I think needs the crank seal replaced, is it as straight forward as this or will timing belt need to be removed?
Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the comment 🤗 yes you will need to remove the timing belt to get to yours but the 1.9 CDTI timing belts are one of the easiest to do 😁
Andy 👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall thanks for replying Andy, damn it I hate timing belts 🤦🏻♂️
@@markygti1 pretty straight forward yours. Plenty videos on RUclips too and the locking kit is only £25 on eBay. Plus the new belt has marks on it to line up so you can’t really go wrong buddy
Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall sadly the belt hasn’t long been done, about 1 yr ish, would I get away with loosening the tensioner and take the belt off the crank pulley?, cable tie the belt in place on the other pulleys?
@@markygti1 it’s always good practice to replace the crank seal when the belt is done but ye you could cable tie it in place. I would prob lock the cam just for extra precaution but as long as you mark everything up it should be fine. If you aren’t confident then a garage shouldn’t be anymore than 2 hours to replace it
Andy👨🏼🔧
Great to watch. iv got Astra 1.4 are they the same as you doing from outside or have l got take Crank cover off
Thanks for the comment buddy 😊 yes the Astra 1.4 is exactly the same bud 😁
Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall cheers mate.. Tis Astra H 1.4i 2006 Petrol iv got.
Same process for 1.3cdti?what is the torque settings for the bolts?
Hi Eddy, yes it is a similar process on the 1.3 CDTI. I don’t know the torque settings off the top of my head but you can purchase a Haynes manual that would give you those a details 😁
Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall thanks, do I need to lock the crankshaft to tightening the bolt?
@@Eddy-th3kc yes if you are torquing it to spec as there will be a NM figure followed by an degree angle. If you buy a timing tool kit there will be a crank pin that makes it easy or you could go down the generic garage / mechanic route and blast the crank bolt on with an impact gun. (I don’t recommend this though)
Andy👨🏼🔧
thank you for taking time to post this super video.i have the same leak on my corsa c, im a bit scared to do it,i havent got impact wrench .any idea using other tools than impact wrench, also there is a leak in other side under coolant tank,but im sure not coolant leak.any advice thank you so much
TheHamouda don’t be scared buddy, this is a pretty straightforward job. I would strongly recommend buying an impact gun if you don’t have an air compressor / gun. The only other option would be to remove the starter motor and lock the flywheel. 😁👨🏼🔧
Andy
@@AMSVauxhall I will take your advice your a top man
How to do 'lock the flywheel' to torque the crank bolt?
There is a T55 screw on the front of the block just above the sump, if you have the timing lock kit you can put the crank lock tool into the cut out on the crank.
Andy👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall Great, thank you. Presumably, if I don't have the timing lock kit I can get someone to hold the T55 screw still with a breaker bar whilst I torque the crank bolt on the other side of the engine?
@@stevenewton4508 the T55 screw is just a cover bolt so nothing to hold onto. You could potentially slide an extension bar in the cut out but the timing lock kit is £15 on eBay
@@AMSVauxhall Thank you for the advise, video was great.
Hey mate, does this have crank have a key way?
You can lock the crank if you don’t have an impact gun yes. There is a T55 torx plug on the lower front of engine just above the sump to remove and then you can slide in the lock pin.
Andy👨🏼🔧
I tried this recently engine turns when trying to unloosen bolt ☺️any tips?
If you don’t have an impact gun you will need the timing chain lock tool kit. In the kit is a large lock pin that slips into a cut out in the crankshaft. There is a T55 screw in the front of the engine block just above the sump and toward the timing chain side. Undo the T55 plug and the tool slips in there. Rotate the crank by hand until you can feel it slip into the cutout
Andy 👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall thanks for that Andy and appreciate you getting back to me, I ordered the kit on Amazon and came next day, finally got the kit on and the bolt out etc. fingers crossed 🤞 putting everything back to get is going to go smoothly as I’m currently replacing all seals and gaskets etc :)
Hi, could you share with us the 3 dimensions (external diameter, internal diameter and thickness) of the oil seal or, if you know it, the code of the genuine part?
Thank you, very good video
Thanks for the comment! Much appreciated ☺️ I don’t know the part number sorry. I use motor factors for parts so I just need to give a reg number and trust them to source me the correct part. They are readily available on eBay though, I used a FEBI seal but there are plenty other makes available. If you can’t get a genuine GM seal, I’d go for victor reinz and then FEBI
Andy 👨🏼🔧
@@AMSVauxhall if Opel parts leaks at relatively short mileage, no reason to buy it from Opel. It is better to get better seals from Toyota supliers (NOK, TRP). Felpro, REINZ, AND Ajusa are reboxer, the rubber may made by other companies.
@@rondhole Oil leaks are not really to do with mileage, it’s more the age of the rubber. Gaskets and seals don’t last forever. You can of course prolong the wear by cleaning and regular maintenance but eventually they will need replaced. Most GM seals / gaskets are made by victor reinz just with a
GM stamp
Andy👨🏼🔧
Hello mate , I have an astra gtc 1.4t 2014 plate. Would this be the same . Cheers
Hi buddy, yes similar procedure 😁
Andy👨🏼🔧
Hi how much would a garage charge to replace it I have astra h 1.4 2009. Cheers m8
£100-£200 depending where you are in the country
Excellent tutorial was this on diesel or petrol Corsa
Johnclive021 thanks buddy. This is on Twinport petrol engines
how to lock the flywheel?
You will need to remove the starter motor and then jam a strong screwdriver or pry bar between the flywheel teeth. Much easier and quicker to use an impact gun though
Andy👨🏼🔧
Mine still leaks after new seal. Unfortunately the pulley hubs can wear, you'll see a groove created by the seal. So needed new pulley hub and seal
It’s rare but it does happen but hopefully you got it sorted in the end buddy
Andy👨🏼🔧
Great vid, is this seal the transmission end or the timing end
Timing end buddy 😊
Andy 👨🏼🔧
Transmission ends= rear seals. That's pain in the rear job. This crank seals is much easier and cheaper labor wise. Rear seals cost you more than 8 h labor
@@AMSVauxhall is it really common for Opel engines to leak below 100k miles? My roomate has 1.0L turbo Astra K, and it starts dripping oil right below AC compressor area.
It can leak agen if grease or oil the seal.
The main bolt , too unscrew, is on left or right?
In the middle
Just a suggestion as I would have just added locktight to old bolt ps 43 years in oil and grease .
Good call.
Apparently the crank bolt should be replaced as they are stretch bolt according to Vauxhall.
Yes manufacturer’s do recommend replacing the crank bolt as they do with 80% of bolts on a car but it’s up to you if you want to replace it. I’ve been a mechanic for 20+ years and experienced to know when to replace certain parts. I only replace them when doing a timing belt / chain and / or engine rebuild.
Please note - This is not a “how to” video. I just enjoy making videos of jobs I do.
Andy
@@AMSVauxhall I agree, most of the time the bolts are fine. Only head gasket bolts are not reusable in my opinion. Other bolts do not have really large torque like head gasket bolts.
@Melissa Money If you don't have an impact gun like the one he undoes/does up the crank bolt with then you'd need to lock the crank/flywheel still so you can tun the bolt without turning the engine. I don't know _exactly_ how you'd lock it on these engines. I'd imagine it would involve taking the starter off and either pinning the flywheel or using a special tool to engage on the ring gear. A pikey way could involve putting the car in gear and have somebody step on the brakes but I couldn't recommend it..
The 45 degree it means you do the bolt up to the specified torque and then turn it a further 45 degrees from there.
Seem like only you know this way of doing it crank seal , ask others garages all said need take crank cover case off for seal l said dont need too..
I don’t know how garages / mechanics can quote a job etc without investigating first 🤷🏻♂️
Get yourself some tools and do it yourself buddy
Andy 👨🏼🔧
Would it be possible to torque down the center bolt by gripping the pulley with an old belt like the example in the link attached? ruclips.net/video/bghh47pBDMA/видео.htmlsi=TQYWVhmFGsNqwd5H
Had a mechanic do my timing and replace those seals he just buggered up my car
Oh that doesn’t sound great but he must have made a mistake with the timing chain rather than the seal?
Andy👨🏼🔧
Don't they go on dry no oil on the seal