Making a DC Generator (Dynamo!) - Part 1
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- This episode on Blondihacks, I’m making a dynamo! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
Buy Blondihacks stuff in my store! www.blondihacks...
Have questions? Try my FAQ! blondihacks.co...
Here are links for many of the tools that you see me using:
(I earn small commissions on these links)
• Shrum Solutions face mill: www.shrumsolut...
• 6mm CCMT Boring Bar | Shrum Solutions: www.shrumsolut...
• D. Gray kits for the home shop : d-gray-draftin...
• The Original Rose Index : rosenthalproduc...
• Mill clamping set : amzn.to/2xc9vqr
• Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/2IJsAUs
• Zero Flute Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/3bmPLPe
• NOGA Deburring set : amzn.to/2Jv3RlW
• NOGA Reversible Deburring Tool : amzn.to/2X07WX1
• Knurling Tool : amzn.to/2FblXb1
• Tapered Reamer : amzn.to/2Gn0b3G
• Chucking Reamer set : amzn.to/3odnVvh
• Nicholson files : amzn.to/2VcHkls
• Nicholson needle files : amzn.to/2BDt7ph
• 1-2-3 Blocks : amzn.to/2EvAsGq
• Dormer center drills : amzn.to/2X7U6ij
• 6” Divider : amzn.to/2GTncM3
• NOGA arm with magnetic base : amzn.to/2U2bGTI
• NOGA arm Big Boy : amzn.to/381acji
• Collet Block set : amzn.to/2UkF1vZ
• DeWalt drill and driver kit : amzn.to/2Gp6IeJ
• DeWalt portable band saw : amzn.to/2U4Mhsw
• DeWalt band saw blades : amzn.to/2H2J4X0
• High Speed Steel parting blade : amzn.to/2YcdYBv
• High Speed Steel blade holder : amzn.to/2JgO0IK
• High Speed Steel tool blanks : amzn.to/2H1qoqr
• Grizzly Pre-ground tool bits : amzn.to/2H4yr5z
• AXA tool holders : amzn.to/2V1gOHl
• Quick Change Toolpost : amzn.to/310mshq
• Norton oil stone kit : amzn.to/2EbLEH3
• Norton small sharpening stone: amzn.to/2PQwex9
• End mills : amzn.to/2U76Vsf
• Milling machine starter pack : amzn.to/2tA2M4e
• Forceps : amzn.to/2Ww5dFT
• Mill Parallels : amzn.to/2lfW82i
• GearWrench ratcheting tap & die set : amzn.to/2lMwZfV
• Step bits : amzn.to/2q54yfJ
• Starrett automatic center punch : amzn.to/2DCI7C9
• Budget transfer punch set : amzn.to/2yfDgHi
• Precision shim stock : amzn.to/34lJlME
• Jet 2-ton press : amzn.to/2SLas1s
• Gear Wrench locking puller : amzn.to/2ubBV1W
• Starrett tap wrenches : amzn.to/35jxM9e
• Goldenrod oiler : amzn.to/2TTS0En
• Acid brushes : amzn.to/36qWCo5
• Cratex (Bright Boy) block : amzn.to/38fNm72
• Scotchbrite deburring wheel : amzn.to/3ks0P2V
• Fein Turbo I shop vac : amzn.to/2vXpech
• Machinist’s scale : amzn.to/2Zk6oVj
• Mixed metric/imperial dial caliper : amzn.to/2KKARYY
• Mitutoyo dial caliper : amzn.to/2IMIxJE
• Mitutoyo micrometer set : amzn.to/2GtICPx
• Mitutoyo depth micrometer : amzn.to/33M8aSH
• Mitutoyo edge finder : amzn.to/2G36omq
• Mitutoyo dial indicator : amzn.to/2H09gBr
• Mitutoyo dial test indicator : amzn.to/2E5lRQw
• Coaxial indicator : amzn.to/3bbBEwE
• Mitutoyo telescoping gauge set : amzn.to/2Z6houn
• Fowler dial bore gauge : amzn.to/2KQJNf2
• Fowler inside micrometer : amzn.to/2TVm7Jo
• Starrett 98-6 Level : amzn.to/38K7lMD
• Grizzly Height Gage : amzn.to/2PDTr7i
• Thread Checker : amzn.to/2CpvAUU
• The Amateur’s Lathe book : amzn.to/3jIYlwe
• Anchor Lube : amzn.to/2H9X6oQ
• Boeshield T-9 : amzn.to/2TCE0wB
• Brownell’s Oxpho Blue : amzn.to/2YhZTmR
• JAX Metal Blackener : amzn.to/2MVe8wj
• Dykem layout fluid : amzn.to/2U7KQts
• Dykem dauber : amzn.to/2uoXtbm
• Tap Magic cutting oil : amzn.to/3j8kNnR
• WD-40 : amzn.to/2GYV8rY
• Super 77 Spray Glue : amzn.to/2YScxZl
• Loctite 603 : amzn.to/2EYsPbi
• Loctite 242 : amzn.to/2RIt3sQ
• Way oil : amzn.to/38Gl9qW
• High pressure grease : amzn.to/2GloHTd
• CMD Extreme Pressure lube : amzn.to/36JPNy9
• Dry graphite lube : amzn.to/2U0YEZH
• 3-in-1 oil : amzn.to/36in43e
• Kroil : amzn.to/2uCf1RL
• Evaporust : amzn.to/36NSkII
• Brasso : amzn.to/3buE6yL
Commenting policy : blondihacks.co...
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Hey everyone- lots of folks asking why I didn’t do the bore on the mill. This is such a common question on every project, that it is in my FAQ. See link in description. The TL;DR is that boring heads suck if you don’t have power down feed. If you were about to ask that, now you can ask something more constructive instead! Win win! Meanwhile, to everyone concerned about the bolt holes being crooked after the correction, they are clearance holes less than an 1/8” long. Trust me, it’s all gonna be fine 🤗. As for why I didn’t use the ends in the vise for fixing the bottom, both ends *should* be pretty square, but only one definitely is and it’s always better to directly reference the critical surface when correcting a relationship. Using the bore ends is an assumption and a compromise. And yes, the mandrel was long enough. 5C collets are single cut and only clamp at the very end. That had nothing to do with the mandrel moving.
The tappy-tap-tappiest of episodes, without once using the phrase??
Asked it a few hours ago, now I want to delete it...
I didn't notice you didn't have a powered mill quill, and I TOTALLY see how that would really give substandard results if it wasn't mechanically fed...
Almost like trying to do single point threading without gears, by turning the handwheel...
I feel like you chose to pass on making a collet joke at the end. Thank you for reducing our punishment for questioning the order of operations.
Ahhh totally makes sense. I am using a Bridgeport mill with down feed and a mill without it would be a nightmare unless you had one of those expensive boring heads with autofeed mechanism. Thanks for the comment despite my laziness not looking deeper for the AsknAnswered part of your channel.
As a side note I had predicted you were going to setup like you did with the file machine on the lathe crossslide and line bore it. I was so sure you were going to do that, I thought you purposely used the 4 jaw just for teaching. LOL
The knowledge of when to stop rather than getting greedy and going for perfect is a hard lesson I still learn regularly.
Props to you for knowing when it’s worth it and when it’s not and being willing to show an imperfect object on RUclips.
Old saying "Perfect is the enemy of good"
I am glad in my own hobby machining world, I spotted the foot to bore mistake as it was happening. The thing that draws me back to this channel is the mistakes and how you teach us how to deal with them. Awesome content as usual Quinn, one of the best channels on YT.
Easily the best "because shut up that's why" this year. The timing and delivery were perfect. Bravo.
Regarding chatter on light cuts with carbide, I think it was Stephane Goetteswinter who said that this is due to the edge radius that inserts are made with to prolong their life. He has shown lapping that radius down to a super sharp edge allows the insert to take a thin cut at the expense of tool life. I haven’t tried it so if it doesn’t work blame him!
Know when to call it and know when to collet. Both important skills for machinists I imagine.
As I was watching this I realised how much I appreciate your commentary, both the style and the content. Just felt you ought to know so that you didn't feel the need to go changing it. Love your work, both entertaining and informative.
My old bicycles had these dc dynamos for headlamps, good to see people still fancy them :)
Did you have the one that rides on the side of the tire, or within the front hub? Lots of bikes are rolling on front hub dynamos these days, I have one on my commuter rig! Nice to not have to worry about charging my lights
@@cyrucom I had ones that ride on the side of the tires, pretty compact and I think they put out 6v or 9v depending on the model.
Of course with an incandescents bulb as the light you would probably notice the extra resistance to your pedalling (and woe betide you if you want lights while riding up a hill).
@@nerd1000ify haha yes, that definitely sucked.
Heh heh heh! Nice touch with the scratch lines moving slowly across the screen starting at 23:10!
"It's nice to get lucky once in a while" thanks Quinn made me smile
Oh cool! I just finished making one of these. There are a couple of RUclips series on it but they all skip the interesting details of the terminal posts and the lifting eye. Also the end bells are clearly designed to be made on a four jaw chuck.
I did the body casting on the mill with a boring head. That was very quick and easy to setup.
I like the way you used your holes for reference. That’s an excellent trick.
Excellent discussion of the compromises one has to make with castings Quinn.
I think I need to make a great big sign to sit behind my machines saying "DON'T CHASE PERFECT WHEN ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!"
I scrap so much stock that way...
Thanks for the variety. I look forward to your show every Saturday morning while having my coffee.
Mike
One nice side-effect of watching so many episodes is recognizing where various pieces of scrap came from. 😊
I’ve always found the key not being remembering where a scrap came from but remembering where you put it
Thanks for the laugh. I have bin there and done that.
You did a great job, as always. Out of curiosity, would it have saved you setup time if you machined a little bit of the ends of the bore flat and parallel after marking them on the mill? I'm thinking you could maybe use the reference face of the machined foot to make perpendicular and parallel faces on the mill with enough material left over to then take it to the lathe. That way, you could use those milled surfaces to dial the part in and then finish the machining of those faces on the lathe to ensure concentricity with the bore. Just a thought, but idk if it would've saved you any time. I was just thinking it may have been easier, even if it could also seem a bit silly to cut the same surfaces twice on two different machines
I'm enjoying this build, it's reminding me of the days of leveling and aligning very large motors and pump shafts, always remember that shim stock is your best friend when reaching goals.
Love your videos and have learned many tricks of the trade from you, thank you.❤
I know setup is frustrating and tedious, but I’ve always admired your results. 🤓
This is most apparent to me in the disgusted faces I pull when watching the work of others…
Perfection is eternally elusive, but I admire your determination to recheck time and again where others would accept far poorer results. Bravo!
Excellent work, it's nice to see that your tolerance for errors when machining castings is much tighter than mine. Maybe I should up my game a bit?
Yay! It's Blondihacks time!!!
To be honest I don't know why you were worried about the 20 thou. Unless the thing you're mounting this little gen to is perfectly flat and parallel to the run of the drive, you're going to have to shim it anyway. Ir if you have adjustable stand-offs. Belts and chains have some give in run on top of that. You might be surprised just how far off you can be and not trow a belt.
Just goes to show you, go with your first hunch or something you know is correct, don't be lazy. It always bites you in the backside.(don't ask me how I know that!) Nevertheless as always, you managed to save the workpiece by thinking it through and figuring out what went wrong. I think what I like the most about your channel is you show these errors and how you fix them. For the beginner, less experienced hobbyist that can be so helpful. Heck for those of us that have been doing this for years, day in day out serves as a reminder to not cut corners. Cheers!
@32:57 "So you kinda have to know when to collet" LOL I see what you did there! 👍
ARGH I am not going to be able to sleep tonight! Good lesson to learn about remember that tapping may affect the part in multiple directions...
That was some clever trouble shooting. I will be back for part 2. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
I've wanted to built one of these for a long time now. Great to see you doing this video series!
I have this kit. Suddenly realize it’s not going to be as easy I thought. Thanks for the path finding for me.
Nice small 'beginners' project Quinn, looking forward to the rest of it.
When you were trying the 4 jaw chuck, I guess you didn't hear me shouting to you to use the surface plate. Just the constant Back and forth getting plane (a) perfect to throw it off while getting plane (b) aligned was enough for me to use the angle plate. Great job getting it done! RecognizingTHAT problem with your process of frequent checking in itself shows why measuring often is so important.
Great Job cant wait to see you use it!
You crack me up with your “shut up that’s why”😂
"...you kind of have to know when to collet..." [32: 58] I see what you did there. 😆
They used to use white or pink Dykem on castings where I worked that used to do big castings, showed up better than black or blue.
is that a Sprocket mark on your left wrist?😸
Woah, I've been wanting to see something like this for a long time. It's so hard to find details about making your own electrical generators lol.
Excellent presentation. Thank you. A really amazing job and explanation on getting the bore square with the base. Incredible stuff and I really learned a lot. That kit from PM can be bought raw ($59) or fully machined ($109). Would be a lot of fun for you to buy both kits and then compare your machined unit to theirs. I see a lot of their kits come both ways. That said - I wonder how the hourly rate works out when the fully machine kit is only $50 more not to mention the cost of the tools and machines needed.
I feel like whenever the Walking Dead thing happens, it's not gonna be Ron Swanson, It's gonna be Quinn with the modern amenities like electricity and running water and a functioning workshop.
Having worked on a few old machines, the casting and the machining often don't line up anyway. But I get how making it look good feels good.
“Putting that indicator where our mouth is” - measured words, Quinn! 😂
as the spindle turns, these are the trials and tribulations of machining
Thanks for the video. Looking forward to seeing this motor run!
Ah, yes... tho a DC generator is the same as a DC motor as far as I know, they have the same physical components and structure, the only real difference is how you use it. But, since the title does say dc gen... I guess I really should say, can't wait to see this generator working.
Thank You! i hawe a turbine/generator kit from Cringle engineering (those kits where really awesome, but i don't know if he make them anymore, i am so glad i got one! The design it just outstanding compared to those Chinese barstock things) i really want to give a try on my "new" late whan it is installed!
The ability to quit when achieving good enough was most impressive to us obsessive compulsive persons. That takes both wisdom and commitment. It can be difficult to accept less than perfect. Sigh. Not than I am saying Q is OCD, just speaking generally. Fun project. Cheers.
I really appreciated the detective work. Thanks.
I love the sound of cast iron machining.
Thanks. Always learn something from your videos and enjoy your touch of humor.... "because shut up" 😄
Quinn you probably know that Mr. Pete built this dynamo kit some time back. I really enjoyed seeing the differences between your approach to the work and his. Lots of similarities too. I know the end product will be the same (i.e. awesome). Thanks for the video. PS - sorry about the Flames not being fabulous this year. But hey! At least the Edmonton Oilers still suck. 🤣
Stepper motors make great generators BTW.
Didn't know that, Thanx
Firstly, thank you for your videos.... i love them. Your fix for the casting base was incredibly cool. I'm only just really getting into hobby engineering, and I find the fix for error, particularly interesting!..... errr maybe coz I'm still making quite a few of them idk :)
Lots of lessons learned in this video for sure:) You could have, once you taped the part parallel on the mandrel, then reset the square collet holder in the vice.
I just woke up and I’m drinking my coffee, after your first bore for the mounting hole I tried to blow the shavings away on my iPad. Wow, that’s bad.
Are those blood stains on the lathe? 👀
I haven't touched a mill since I got a C in high school shop class, but watching you craft is the best! 😄
What would the cons of using a boring bar be?
Also, what about using a boring head in the lathe spindle + and power feed of the saddle mounted casting?
(I haven't tried either of them myself, so just questions!)
Great. I can’t wait for part 2.
Watching this on Thanksgiving evening. . I have never seen your channel and I have no idea what you are making but it sure is interesting. I bet men are way more impressed with your abilities than your average woman. Just saying i'm impressed.
Im sure 2 1/2 thou error is not going to matter.
The spigot of the mandrel in the 5C collet should be as long as possible, but I think I would have mounted in a vertically mounted rotary table with a chuck and rotated to dial the base surface in, but then I have that tooling available and a bigger mill that it easily fits on.
A question, not criticism - would the mandrel have worked without the emery paper if you had put a small chamfer on the end of the bore? Remember, chamfers are what separates us from the animals!
I would have *had* to set up the casting on the mandrel in the vice, with the known 2.5 thou error dialed in. That is, not levelled the mandrel first followed by mounting the casting.
Hes, things can go wrong... imagine setting it all up the wrong way around, and machining the base to a 5 thou error 😊
Nice
You could User feeler gauge tape (dont really know if you call it like that) under the upper Part so if you tap tap the other angle it doest go back down ( i Mean the last correction operation) but at all nice work done
A lot of work ahead. Very interesting though
Will the kit enable you to shoot lightning from your hands? If not, I don't want one
Quinn can already do that without the kit ;-)
The prewound rotor seems like such a cop-out to me, I can understand why though - winding coils is difficult to get right and is probably 90% of the black magic to getting a good generator.
Needs a collab with Lingouer 😂
@@stevenverhaegen8729 She could rewind a 3-phase motor in her sleep.
My mom hand wound small transformers during WWII
I'm with you. That would be the neat part. ..... and making the commutator... WOW!
Good video!
I'm doing the PM Research 2A and I had a similar problem with the cylinder. I planned to face the port face and drill the pivot hole in one setup. After the facing operation I measured the bore and the difference from one end to the other was nine thousandths. It's a good thing it wasn't over nine thousandths or I would've had to call my local Saiyan for help.
I put the cylinder back in the chuck and tapped it in for 0.009" difference on the back. Then I faced it again. That worked well except now my pivot hole is slightly off center. That does not rock.
Is there a reason you didn't choose the 2A for a project? I don't see a lot of people doing them.
excellent
Great video, as always a great learning experience. ❤
"You kinda have to know when to collet." 32:47 I see what you did there...
What’s up with the tool you’re using to face off at around 15:00? I always have trouble with the tool and approach angle for facing off and this is new to me.
I knew it was coming..."Because Shut Up, that's why!" and I loved it!
This is a very neat praw-ject (yes, American 😜).
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Not to qrotic you are doing so much better than I could I think if you would add some smaller diameter washers behind Mr fender washer the crush factor would be eliminated go job as always 73 dan
You did not indicate what you are going to use to spin the dynamo. My guess is the PM1 steam engine that you built previously.
Are the castings really hard enough to damage the hardened vice jaws!?
Not the inside of them, but the very thin outer skin is extremely hard and capable of damaging vice jaws.
(DKA, all though) Does the four jaw chuck create an out- of-round in the casting?
"You have to know when to collet ." 😁
Does anyone know where I can get the tool that is used for facing around the 15 min mark? I remember her saying the name in a past video, but I didn't write it down at the time. TIA
Sometimes you just have to know when to collet.
My disappointment in not hearing "yahtzee" in this episode has been easily made up for with "cattywampus" and "borked".
How bad would the original 20thou of error have been if left in? It seems this is just about how the dynamo sits in the final setup. Did it look visibly squint, or is it out of tolerance for transmitting power to the dynamo? Or just felt wrong.
Ditto, I real life, installing 100 HP class motors we used shims under the feet,,,,,,a lot. -
The base is meaningless as long as the end bells and shafting is true to the stater.
Good practice, and tool maker workmanship though. (BTW - Why not machine the center of the pad out leaving only 4-"Pads" or "Feet". It's the way a real motor would be constructed. )
When errors snowball unexpectedly, it's my experience that the object being machined often sufferes a high speed collision with another surface!
Maybe add to your store the sign that says “Because…Shut Up!”
Have I watched any other RUclips builder do this kit before? It seems familiar somehow.
You have to know when to .... Collet? ;)
I never know when to "call it" I guess I have a call it block.
"Gotta know when to collet" -Quinn 2023
I caught the Lisa on the bus reference. I am curious if anyone else did?😂
😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
Has she finished the steam engine ?
Steam powered Veronica?
I always come away from your videos feeling smarter.
But I don’t wanta shut up 🤓👍🇨🇦❤️
a dynamo is an ac generator, isnt it?
as far as i know, every generator is an ac generator. you can not generate dc in any way that i know of...
no, an AC generator is an alternator
inside the rotor its AC but it gives out pulsed dc caused by commutator ,same as if you run AC through a bridge rectifier
@@piperpa4272every spinning generator thingy produces ac. you then have to rectifiy that ac to dc somehow.
Steam train dynamos are DC. Early electricity generation stations were DC.
First
Second
Once you have the bolt holes and need to do the layout (~9 mins!), if you have 2 gauge pins of the size, you can use them as references against the angle plate top (by pushing them through, then resting against the angle plate top), rather than trying to use the height gauge. I found on a few projects it gets you REALLY close as long as you have the right size gauge pins and a reference surface on the top of your angle plates.
Side note, I'm envious of the patience you have on your initial setup! I typically just use an adjustable parallel and eyeball it off the vise jaw!
I was thinking this, plus could you then fly cut the top face to be square to the bolt holes and the foot for easier clamping in the lathe?
@@zacharykarr yeah, you'd need pins that were the size of the hole or smaller, as long as they are the same size.
For some unfathomable reason I envisioned a wizard with a can of dykem in one hand and a suspiciously pointy wand in the other shouting *"I CAST LAYOUT!"* because that's how my weird ball of bacon works.
As an Engineer there is a huge temptation to offer advice and point out where you have gone wrong, but then I realised I would be just like every other Armchair Expert, instead I will stay silent and trust that you are learning as much from your mistakes as I am, keep up the great channel 🙂
I have less engineering education, haven’t ever used a mill or metal lathe, and STILL struggle to STFU. I know all of the “helpful” comments from armchair machinists would wear me down.
I think this is part of my learning process - to connect problems with techniques & solutions, then test them against reality (or more knowledgeable people). That feedback illuminates areas I was missing or reveals things I’ve misunderstood. I would also like to be able to build projects like these, and “helping” is easier and cheaper than doing.
Thanks for YOUR comment because it pushed me to understand why I feel compelled to add my $0.02 (if that) worth on machining videos!
Quinn - lots of intricacy with the setup on this part. I love your explanations of when further attempts at corrections may give worse-than-expected results.
13:40 Way back in 1980 I was actually taught "visual averaging" on a signal processing course, a module on my Electronics degree.
I am very bad at crafting, especially making near perfect products. These videos fills my heart with joy. Thank you for your video
I think dynamos are forgiving on such a small discrepancy of the bore. You'll be running LED lighting and charging iPhones with no problems!
I would have started with the with a different reference surface. Can you go more in detail about how to chose a starting reference for a casting?