Okay. Sort the brakes out, new clutch, new cables back to the engine, new tires, and roll. No messing about with pulling the body off the frame or anything else. Get that thing up and running and call it good.
Heya CT! I’m restoring a 63 ragtop currently! And I’ve been watching you and using your vids as a guide! I’m so thankful for you man. Sadly my front axle beam is cracked. So I can’t restore that. Keep up the good work!!
I had a '63 40 horse motor in my '73 Super Beetle. Other than changing the flywheel it fit fine and worked great. Wasn't much in the performance department, but it got me to work and back and even brought son number two home from the hospital when he was born. The heat exchangers were a lot different than what you have on yours, though.
Just dropped by to see if any projects was close to finalizing. Your neighbours have heard VW-related sounds from your garage for at least 5 years, and still not seen anything looking like a car drive by. Wish you were more focused, dear CT. Where can we follow the guy that ended up with Rusty?
I would recommend replacing the flat head screws with bolts, so they are easier to remove later if you need to remove the tins again. If you decide to replace the heat exchanger with a strait pipe, you will need to make something to replace them, so you don't lose your cooling ability. The heat exchanger helps direct the hot air out the back and if you remove them the air will not be directed out the rear as it was intended and could cause over heating issues. I would also recommend being very careful when torquing the head bolts, watch the stud as you are tightening as the studs can pull out of the magnesium block very easy casing you to have to replace it with an oversized stud, my dad and I ran into that problem back in the 80's when we were rebuilding the engines.
Bonjour CT vous êtes super concernant la mise route des moteurs de vos véhicules ainsi que la présentation de ce petit compresseur d'air à bientôt de voir vos vidéos
I think its going to be a really good engine. Get a bottle of liquid Molly engine flush to run through it. Note: if you have never used it before put a quarter of the bottle in to flush the engine and run for 3 to 5 minutes. It's a really strong cleaner. Using too much or running too long can damage the motor. It does do really good at cleaning the gunk out of the motor.
The part on the carb that you said you thought was messed up is controlled by the choke, as it warms up it will move back to the normal operating position and let the engine idle at normal rpms.
There is a chrucher seal ring under the intake. You can see in your video where you point out the crud and not to get it in your head that its not sealing. They have to be replaced every time you remove the intake from the heads. Otherwise it can run lean.
Excellent video CT :) also that Volkswagen motor sounds good condition after you tune up and set vavlea plus carb rebuilt too ! For 1963 motor think well took care and runs smoothly! Also would get 89 octane gas with 5 % Ethonal runs in and get grey or black bottle of STP Total Treatment fuel injection and carb cleaner in fuel tank too in run thru motor also help run clean and may try plug up too!
you have to use JB Weld MARINE flavor, all other ones arent Fuel proof.... Cant adjust the carb till the air filter is on? Maybe I missed something? Why would there be "Chunks of Magnesium" in an air-cooled VW motor?
Hey CT I didn’t see, Did you put on new gaskets ? Like under the rocker Arms? Carburetor intakes ? Valve covers ? You did got the oil drain and strainer so You must have. Maybe could have shown the Gasket kit before. Anyway seems to run just fine Nice work man Great job!
OMG. I would not have the self control once the tins are off, the rockers are off.....I'd pull the pushrods to make sure they are straight....might as well pull the heads....and the jugs.....and, screw it, now that it is apart, split the case.....then build it up with new bearings...new rings...drool, drool......you are a better person than I am!
Hi CT, most carbs that old i have worked on all have round head slot screws. hex head probably something someone just put on there and probably the wrong metal material as well. Oh, just started the reinstall video series on my old 40hp. The carb for it will be hitting the chem dip bucket soon for sure. sounds good but has a miss? timing or something else? did you check the compression on each cylinder?
Did I hear that you are in Florida? If so, I could gladly lend you a hand or knowledge since building and repairing hundreds of air cooled dubs. Got away from it and into a 64 truck now so I can get around with about anything. Got tools too except can't do welding.
Boa Noite Amigo Ótimo Trabalho foi Tranquilo Deus Abençoe Esse livro de Manutenção do Fusca você pode me Enviar um para mim fala o valor e enviarei o valor Boa Noite
honestly. are you torquing on dry rusty bolts.?? shouldnt you loosen them first to see if they move right, and then torque them all down again. the torque values is normally on dry bolts. wet - oily bolts is less torque.
flush out with diesel fuel and save on oil //poor diesel and look for it to poor out clean out //do not start engine will diesel in crank case //just poor in to help clean out block //then I add S T P IN WITH MY OIL
Guys, buy your YANTU tire inflater here:😎😎😎
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Okay. Sort the brakes out, new clutch, new cables back to the engine, new tires, and roll. No messing about with pulling the body off the frame or anything else. Get that thing up and running and call it good.
Thats the plan! =)
Heya CT! I’m restoring a 63 ragtop currently! And I’ve been watching you and using your vids as a guide! I’m so thankful for you man. Sadly my front axle beam is cracked. So I can’t restore that. Keep up the good work!!
That's awesome man! I really appreciate that. Good luck on the 63! Keep me updated.
A good welder can fix it. Remove it and they can cut and sleeve it so it's better than new.
congratulations, it is the first time that you do not disarm everything, greetings from Argentina
it wasn't easy... I really wanted to take it all apart! haha! Thanks! 👍
She is running really good ! So good you puttn fresh oil in CT 👍
Hey CT! The video production quality was excellent!
Thanks man!
Well done CT. A definite win. You got to get one of these drivable soon, I’m sure you will.
Thanks buddy! I will have this one driving very soon if all goes well. =) It might not be road worthy....but it will drive! hahah!
Can't wait to see you driving old "Fritz". Great content about the engine - runny smoooooooth!
THANK YOU! 😎😎😎
I had a '63 40 horse motor in my '73 Super Beetle. Other than changing the flywheel it fit fine and worked great. Wasn't much in the performance department, but it got me to work and back and even brought son number two home from the hospital when he was born. The heat exchangers were a lot different than what you have on yours, though.
Mine was different I had a 72 super bug engine in a 59 bug. Same thing happened I had to change the flywheel and 6 volt to 12. Ran great 👍
For running better first thing should be welding that hole in intake! Couldn't look elsewhere when all was assembled but the hole was still there. Omg
Yes, I'm going to clean that up this week. It's the heat riser from the exhaust to warm up the carb.
Great bro one day you will complete all the two beautiful cars running
Just dropped by to see if any projects was close to finalizing. Your neighbours have heard VW-related sounds from your garage for at least 5 years, and still not seen anything looking like a car drive by. Wish you were more focused, dear CT. Where can we follow the guy that ended up with Rusty?
Thanks for the kind works my friend. I hope you having a great day. =)
I would recommend replacing the flat head screws with bolts, so they are easier to remove later if you need to remove the tins again. If you decide to replace the heat exchanger with a strait pipe, you will need to make something to replace them, so you don't lose your cooling ability. The heat exchanger helps direct the hot air out the back and if you remove them the air will not be directed out the rear as it was intended and could cause over heating issues. I would also recommend being very careful when torquing the head bolts, watch the stud as you are tightening as the studs can pull out of the magnesium block very easy casing you to have to replace it with an oversized stud, my dad and I ran into that problem back in the 80's when we were rebuilding the engines.
Bonjour CT vous êtes super concernant la mise route des moteurs de vos véhicules ainsi que la
présentation de ce petit compresseur d'air
à bientôt de voir vos vidéos
I think its going to be a really good engine. Get a bottle of liquid Molly engine flush to run through it. Note: if you have never used it before put a quarter of the bottle in to flush the engine and run for 3 to 5 minutes. It's a really strong cleaner. Using too much or running too long can damage the motor. It does do really good at cleaning the gunk out of the motor.
The part on the carb that you said you thought was messed up is controlled by the choke, as it warms up it will move back to the normal operating position and let the engine idle at normal rpms.
That engine was missing the temperature control flaps and the thermostat. Most people don't have the patience to keep it maintained.
I’m so grateful for the kindness here. Thank you, everyone!
Love the close ups CT….and the orange gloves add a cinematic element….well, a graphic element I guess…!
Does that intake have a hole? It will cause that cylinder to run lean and hot.
Should take care of that before your roadtest
There is a chrucher seal ring under the intake. You can see in your video where you point out the crud and not to get it in your head that its not sealing. They have to be replaced every time you remove the intake from the heads. Otherwise it can run lean.
ok, good catch. I will order some of those this week.
sounds good now
Thanks Mike! I really do appreciate the help my friend! =)
Love your videos!!!
With the toque wrench the advice is to slacken off at least a turn then go back in to tighten to spec
Good advice.I will try that. Thanks man!
Excellent video CT :) also that Volkswagen motor sounds good condition after you tune up and set vavlea plus carb rebuilt too ! For 1963 motor think well took care and runs smoothly! Also would get 89 octane gas with 5 % Ethonal runs in and get grey or black bottle of STP Total Treatment fuel injection and carb cleaner in fuel tank too in run thru motor also help run clean and may try plug up too!
I seem to remember that the auto choke ran off a bimetallic strip on the opposite side to the stepped lever, but mine was a later beetle
That stuff you are getting out with changing the oil is carbon and dried up sealant that was used the last time the motor was apart
you have to use JB Weld MARINE flavor, all other ones arent Fuel proof....
Cant adjust the carb till the air filter is on?
Maybe I missed something? Why would there be "Chunks of Magnesium" in an air-cooled VW motor?
The case is made of magnesium
Hey CT
I didn’t see,
Did you put on new gaskets ?
Like under the rocker Arms?
Carburetor intakes ?
Valve covers ?
You did got the oil drain and strainer so
You must have.
Maybe could have shown the Gasket kit before. Anyway seems to run just fine
Nice work man
Great job!
Yes, I still need to do all the gaskets. I will do that soon. Thanks man! 😎
Dang CT. It sounded 👍 great you can save it put it back in the original car that would be 🆒
amazing work, thanks!
Nice job sir Nice show cool Garage 😃👏👏👏👍👍👍👍
Wind that throttle screw in it’s stopping it from idling low
Another great Video!
I appreciate that! =)
OMG. I would not have the self control once the tins are off, the rockers are off.....I'd pull the pushrods to make sure they are straight....might as well pull the heads....and the jugs.....and, screw it, now that it is apart, split the case.....then build it up with new bearings...new rings...drool, drool......you are a better person than I am!
Hello CT! I would do a compression test on the VW engine. On such an old machine!
Good idea. I will do that tomorrow.
Hi CT, most carbs that old i have worked on all have round head slot screws. hex head probably something someone just put on there and probably the wrong metal material as well. Oh, just started the reinstall video series on my old 40hp. The carb for it will be hitting the chem dip bucket soon for sure. sounds good but has a miss? timing or something else? did you check the compression on each cylinder?
good video
CT is the 914 project dead?
No, I will get back on the 914 in a few weeks. It's too hot right now to do metal work. I'm in Florida and it's is hot and humid...
Did you torque the left head studs? All you showed was doing right side twice and that backed off nut still looked loose when adjusting the valves. 🤔
Lol, in newest vid where you're tearing apart motor after flywheel fell off, it's completely loose still. So that answers that question.
Can you tell me which book you show about Beetle mechanics?
yes, search for "Volkswagen Service Manual" by Bentley Publishers
Mustie 1 has some clever trick to get those tin bolts loose. Uses a chisel I think.
Hi My Dear Friend Very Very Good Job ❤❤❤❤❤
what was the device you used to mount the starter to the back of your engine? Where to buy one Thanks
Did I hear that you are in Florida? If so, I could gladly lend you a hand or knowledge since building and repairing hundreds of air cooled dubs. Got away from it and into a 64 truck now so I can get around with about anything. Got tools too except can't do welding.
Nice 👍
What’s the book name? Love your videos!
You should paint it like Herbie from "Herbie Goes Bananas"
Ewerything would be Clean in the Ultrasonic Bath. You can pre-clean with your stuff, but IT only gets Clean with the Ultrasonic.
Yes, I need to get one of those. Hopefully soon! Thank you !=)
Impact screwdriver is best way to remove tinware screws that have seized. Get one for next time!
I mean an impact screwdriver, not a impact driver!
Where did you get that engine stand please
Woohooo first here!! Time to watch!
Slade! =)
You should have filled it full of gasolene and left it overnight, best flush ive ever used then some fresh oil
CT, you bought a girlfriend for your other beetle..😅
👍👍👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️✌️
clean out oil cooler fins
🤗❤️👍💯❣️
Ok but when are you gonna rip it apart and then find another project ?😂
Fuel line lying against the hot muffler.. there's some excitement ready to happen....smh
Ok
Boa Noite Amigo Ótimo Trabalho foi Tranquilo Deus Abençoe Esse livro de Manutenção do Fusca você pode me Enviar um para mim fala o valor e enviarei o valor Boa Noite
honestly. are you torquing on dry rusty bolts.?? shouldnt you loosen them first to see if they move right, and then torque them all down again. the torque values is normally on dry bolts. wet - oily bolts is less torque.
steam clean the hole engine first //now
Gotta keep that engine hole clean!
Car just needs a sand down and some paint, sadly just looks like a pile of junk in rusty patina format !
JB Weld is brittle. I had it crack under vibration. Not a good idea on a carb.
flush out with diesel fuel and save on oil //poor diesel and look for it to poor out clean out //do not start engine will diesel in crank case //just poor in to help clean out block //then I add S T P IN WITH MY OIL
BOA NOITE AQUI DO BRASIL UM GRANDE ABRAÇO SEMPRE VEJO OS VIDEOS.