100% agreed and the way to go, been using this method on personal water heaters without issue since 1988. Metal wise separation of Church and State. Might not be a popular comment but it's accurate. Another excellent video for the DIY.
The dielectric joint alongside the dielectric nipple is proven, and you proved it. Thanks for doing this video and showing proof that in eight years there is no galvanic corrosion. Great results! Thanks, Bob.
To each their own, I suppose. I have installed water heaters about 20 years ago that I have installed copper male adapters into the top of the heaters and have been back to those houses multiple times with no galvanic corrosion at the heater or on the piping and/or water pressure issues with the hot water in the house. Heaters still work great, too. I normally don't install dielectric unions because the gaskets normally end up leaking because expansion and contraction due to changing water temps and the chlorine in the water. Almost every dielectric union I've taken out has had rust form at the steel half of the union either on the face of the union or inside the opening. The dielectric nipples I still install and have very minimal problems with the connections to those nipples corroding out. As long as you make the connections properly, the connections usually last as long as the heaters do. The dielectric nipple sleeves or liners do fail as well, but it's very seldom you see that. Just my take.
Hi Bob, nice to hear someone who knows what they are talking about! One thing that surprised me during electrical testing on the dielectric union assemblies I made is that it is possible for them to conduct across IF THEY ARE WET. A 'salt bridge' of sorts can form. I dried out the components (they should stay dry in use, as only the inside should be exposed to water), reassembled, retested, and the conductivity dropped back to zero from one side to the other. Also, I noticed my expansion tank has stainless threads, so I'm putting a dielectric union between that expansion tank and the copper lines also. Those 'dielectric nipples' will NOT function as a replacement for proper dielectric unions, though.
When installed into the plumbing system, there will always be an "electrical bridge" between the galv and the copper via the water.....As already noted, these unions greatly reduce the problem but don't stop the effect all together...Another point to consider is that how the system was earthed/grounded originally may have compounded the issue, and although the dielectric union has physically stopped the problem, the earthing/grounding aspect may still need looking at. Given that a dielectric union essentially isolates the tank from the copper pipe, fitting it may have implications on the earthing/grounding else where in the house, so this aspect should be considered anyway....
Thank you for sharing this . I installed a water heater for my mother-in-law 17 years ago and I don't recall anything about these . I'm installing a new water heater in my home and was told to make sure to use these couplings . Thank you for explaining why .
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Bob, why pressure relief valves and drain valves (brass) are fitted to water heaters without dielectric protection? I never figured out why they are treated different than the water in/out.
Steve Lav installs copper fittings directly to the dielectric nipples on the new hot water heaters that he sells. He has remarked in several of his videos that dielectric unions are not necessary. Flexible copper lines are common in my area so I installed new copper lines when I replaced my water heater and those copper lines had plastic gaskets which I assume are for electrical isolation.
Fact is I've seen corrosion inside those factory installed insulated nipples with and without the die electric unions. I would assume the quality of the water has an effect on things!
You've done it again Bob. My super wanted me to order him several of these and I had never seen them before. I wanted to see how the connections were made. It was very helpful for you to clarify male vs female because he wants male ones. BTW, he did not like the Walton pipe extractors you recommended because the box end is too short for extracting pipes that are located inside walls. Can't win all the time. Thanks again.
Just replaced my 21 yr old Bradford White electric 50gl water heater, it had the dielectric union. My new Rheem 50gl was also installed using a new dielectric union as well. Just wish I had time to go with another Bradford White this time.
Thanks for the tip on the dielectric union. I installed a new electric water heater and chose A.O. Smith 50 gallon 500 series. I did not want to use the metal braid supply lines as I had one leak in the past. Fortunately my son saw a little water on the basement floor and we fixed before it became a real problem. For this install, I sweat the fittings and pipe together and used the dielectric union you describe 3/4" copper sweat to female pipe thread. I also used the Teflon tape and Megaloc you describe in another video. After everything was assembled, NO LEAKS! If I had any leaks it would have been a real kick in the nuts, I purposely take my time and measure twice and cut once sort of thing so I don't have to fix a bad joint etc.
Looks good all your info is good using blue block best stuff. you just taught alot of amature plumbers valuable info stainless 304 and brass for the win $$$ moral is dont mix farious and non farious metals spend the extra money and buy quality and do research before doin plumbing
Excellent information! I have a Bradford White 50gal Water Heater and I'm replacing the OEM straight Magnesium anode rod with a flexible Magnesium one (my ceiling is to low to insert a straight anode rod). I want to use the original style Heat Trap but the problem I see is that on the new anode rod nipple there's a plastic core insert that I would have to cut out & remove because the Heat Trap will not fit. My question is; should I go through the hassle of removing this plastic core just to use a Heat Trap? Should I not use the Heat Trap at all or can I extend the nipple with an adapter then insert the Heat Trap then connect my flex hose to finish the connection. Thank you very much!
Personally, I think the heat traps were more of a marketing ploy. Depending on the quality of the water in your area they more than likely will end up not functioning due to scale build up. I wouldn't stress about it and eliminate them if it make the job easier. Thanks for checking out the video, much appreciated!!
Corrugated stainless. 36" worth costs less than the union, dielectric's built in, tolerates small movements during a typical earthquake or sudden need to scoot the tank out, and you don't need a massive wrench that demands a foot of clearance to spin them. If a washer fails they're of an easily-obtainable size.
Bob, good close up with the camera with very good advice. Like the ideal of getting the union higher off the water heater and using both teflon tape and mega lock.
Hi Bob . . . Thank's for the tip of using Dielectric Unions - I will keep it in mind if and when my hot water heater has to be replaced knock on wood hope it will be long before it will be replaced - good video .
Bob if there are any pinholes in the tank liner which there usually is this is where galvanic corrosion occurs leading to a tank leak I replaced a commercial one in an apartment building it had two strikes galvanized main runs copper runs up to the top floor with no dielectric coupler on the tank it had a hole in the side in 5 years just as the previous tanks had done unfortunately 1 1/4 couplers are expensive 400 dollars each but like I told the owner if the 1200dollars tank last 10 years or more it's worth it also most of the tee's attaching the galvanized pipe to the risers were leaking badly
Great video. I assume that all the silver colored metal in the di-electric union is steel, so that you are screwing the steel female thread of the di-electric union onto the steel male thread of the water heater's di-electric nipple. I'm currently installing with difficulty a bottom entry water heater by threading a 3/4" brass elbow directly onto the di-electric nipple that sticks out of the tank horizontally. The challenge is to get the elbow turned upward to 12 o'clock to mate with a vertical copper pipe, and at the same time, neither under nor over tighten the brass elbow. Unfortunately during my first attempt, I used only teflon paste without teflon tape and 4 hours after installation, I got a 1 drop per hour leak at the junction of the di-electric nipple and the brass elbow. I now have two choices: (1) tear everything apart and rebuild it with the identical new fittings, but this time using both teflon tape and teflon paste, or (2) use a dielectric union with a copper elbow soldered to it to create the 90 degree transition from horizontal to vertical. Choosing option 2 allows me to readjust the threaded connection between the di-electric nipple and the di-electric union, should it leak, without having to cut apart any adjacent copper plumbing. If ever the di-electric union's rubber seal leaks or if ever the thread sealant leaks, it will be easy to mechanically disassemble the dielectric union without having to unsolder anything else. One disadvantage of option 1, which doesn’t exist with option 2, is that the di-electric nipple supplied with the water heater has male threads which were rolled as opposed to the female threads of my brass elbow which were milled. Mixing rolled male threads and milled female threads does not create as intimate a mechanical connection as mixing milled male and milled female threads. In the former case, the sealant has a bigger challenge filling the larger microscopic spiral channel between the male and female threaded parts. That alone could explain my 1 drop per hour leak.
Update: In my last paragraph above, I suggest that the disadvantage of option 1 does not exist with option 2. In fact, with either of the 2 options, a fitting with a female thread has to be screwed onto the male di-electric nipple of the water heater. For both options, that means getting the tightness (torque) of the female fitting correct and using the best sealant method. With option 1, the tightness might not be optimum because the elbow has to always be positioned pointing upward at 12 o'clock. The rubber seal of the di-electric union looks a lot like the rubber seal in the water meter nipple of my water meter. My 43 year old water meter has had its rubber seal changed only once 22 years ago as a precaution as the original rubber seal was 20 years old. Neither of the 2 seals has ever leaked. This observation may be of comfort to users of di-electric unions who worry about the rubber seal lasting the lifespan of the water heater. I would appreciate it if someone would state how many turns after being finger tight, a female brass fitting can be wrenched onto a male steel di-electric nipple and still not be under or over torqued.
Of course galvanic corrosion, pitting and stress corrosion cracking depends on whole host of factors pressures and temperatures in the heater, water chemistry things like hardness (which impacts electrical conductivity), ph values, aggregate states and in commercial industrial setting More particularly start and shut down processes. I agree not even those dielectric unions will protect against very corrosive environments but a standard copper to steel with or With out brass unions may be stable for long periods in non corrosive environments. The point is how many pros really understand or bother with this prior to specifying the type of water heater to use. Very few if any in a residential setting more prior testing on water chemistry side may be undertaken in an industrial setting where the costs are much greater in getting things wrong.
Bob I usually buy state water heater from the plumbing supply but my neighbor has a Rudd. Home Depot special 40-gallon water heater Natural Gas the nipples on the top or corroding no dielectric union do you know on a Ruud water heater if you could just change the nipple on top of the tank
I use A.O. Smith And Bradford White water heaters, both have dielectric nipples installed and can be removed. I generally install dielectric unions and than convert to copper. I don't know for sure about Rudd, but I've never come across a nipple on a water heater that I could not remove.
THANK YOU for this video. It seems I'm having a problem with my HWH tripping the breaker, even after corrosion problems shorted out the heater on the last one - less than a year ago! I'm not sure how far 'upstream' this cause exists (pipe metal-mixing), so is there such a thing as a pre-WH 'conditioner' that might remove contaminants just prior to entering the WH?
DIYer here. 1. I assume the threaded collar needs to be the same metal as the nipple it is screwing onto, such as water heater out. When buying dielectric couplers, how do you know you are buying one that is compatible with your water heater? The coupler and outlet nipple should be the same metal. 2. How to know what metal is used on the water heater water outlet nipple? 3. I thought galvanized is not for use with potable water. Are the WH nipples galvanized steel? Maybe because they are lined with plastic they are acceptable?
Most modern heaters are already fitted with die electric nipples, they are simply lined galvanized nipples. Galvanized waters lines were common in the '40s and '50s, they eventually would close up inside (hardening of the arteries) and water pressure would be non-existent. We ripped them out and installed brass plumbing.
Excellent video Bob. Great instruction and well worth the time to watch. Any advice when working with PEX piping? Would a dielectric union still be required?
i am planning to add these babies to my dhw inlet & outlet. i am also adding an expansion tank (et) to my system. i believe the et inlet is stainless, would you say i need a dielectric union there too.
Though dielectric union is the way to go with water heaters. If it’s a riser install or bathroom repair in pre-war building, you can use brass nipple between galvanized and copper
New York? Brass is less of a threat, but for a couple of extra bucks, I use dielectric unions and nipples on all of my installations. Peace of mind! Regards, Bob.
Great video. Subscribed. Galvanic corrosion fascinates me. I am having problems with the corrosion of the 3/4 x 5 inch steel nipple that the builder's plumber used between my brass hose bibs and the copper female connection behind the brick fascia on my house . I have already replaced one leaker and the threaded end that went into copper was almost half gone (didn't understand and reused a steel nipple) and it is already putting out rusty water again when first opened after a long while. Another original bib on the other side of the house also gives the rusty water when first opened after a while. Will using a brass 5 inch nipple into the copper prevent the corrosion cell from forming?
What about using a stainless steel nipples. My dialect nipples rotted out after 15 years. They were the same one you showed in the video that came with the tank.
Good vid! Got a question- I currently have copper flex pipe (with pre-formed flange) going right to my tank and it's corroding. The other end of the flex pipe is soldered. Is there a union that would accommodate such a set-up?
You can purchase 3/4 die electric unions that are female pipe thread on on end (screw rite onto the nipple coming out of the tank) and 3/4" copper on the opposite end.
Which part do you really tightin up with pipe wrench ? I cranked on the nut and washer got caught in threads. Is it suppose to be really tight on heater nipple ? Or hand tight with a nice turn
Maybe u can mention shower faucet cartridges that have no seats or springs.pfister.I know your talking about water heater.But I was working on shower faucet yesterday.
I keep seeing everyone say you can mix brass and galvanized, but everywhere I see brass touching galvanized the galvanized is corroded as hell. They have copper and stainless dielectric water heater flex hoses but the nuts on them are brass, so you still get galvanic corrosion from the brass nuts touching galvanized.
Got the nipple out and the anode. Plumber did the connections today. Had to put old anode out till new one arrives. These should be universal. No one wants to make this easy. The plumbing supply place in Brooklyn, let’s call it Brooklyn plumbing supply, says, most people just replace the whole water heater. What scammers. $17 vs $1000+. Crazy
So i took an ohmmeter and read under 1 ohm across the already corroded dielectric unions i installed 4 months ago when i put in the new water heater.I thought that i should have had infinity or something alot more than a short across the dielectric union . Where did i go wrong any ideas?
Today I bought an all-brass dielectric union. I chose all brass because my water heater's galvanized steel dielectric nipple is lined with plastic and I wanted my new dielectric union to have as little steel exposed to water as possible, so I paid over 4 times the price of a steel/brass dielectric union to get all brass. Bob, in your video at about 10:22, we see you wrapping the teflon tape around the end of the dielectric nipple 7 times. Is that how thick you usually go for this type of connection? Like the dielectric union featured in your video, mine has a knurled surface on the half of the union that screws onto the nipple. What kind of wrench do you use to grip the knurled surface and how many turns, if any, past finger tight do you go? How tight do you squeeze the rubber gasket so that it won't leak over time? Thanks for any answers.
I usually go 5 to 7 times around followed by MegaLoc. I use a 440 channellock pliers to tighten them and I would say for the Unions hand tight plus one full turn with my channel lock pliers.
Bob, thanks for the video. Two questions: I live in Rockaway Queens. City just replaced water Mains. Had to shut water off nine times. Two days ago brown water had to be flushed via fire hydrants. My hot water heater had corrosion but one day after, cold line blew. Flooded basement. Nipple down to 5% diameter opening we with corrosion. Did the sediment in the city’s work contribute to this? Secondly, is the tank salvageable if the plumber can get the nipples out? Thanks Jason
My opinion is that the incident with the city didn't contribute to the problem.If the tank is not leaking and the plumber can replace the nipples, sure it'll most likely operate. How long I could not say, it's out of warranty so it's basically your call. If it's making hot water and keeping up with the demand, go for it!
@@MrInfoPhilly I agree with the pex comment but I am amazed at how so many people still use copper and think it is great. Copper sucks so bad. It loves to leak and it taints the water. Why do you love that???????
No! only between ferrous and non-ferrous metals. Copper and brass are both non-ferrous metals. Mix either of them with steel, galvanized steel, (ferrous metals) or anything you can stick a magnet to, and the corrosion will take place.
Good question! Not commonly done here and I don't know why. In all the years of doing this, I can count on one hand how many times I've seen the flexible water lines. Thanks for commenting! Bob.
The flexible copper lines used to be common in my area and have the plastic gaskets on both ends to provide electrical isolation. I think a lot of home builders are now using the stainless steel braided hose on new water heaters because the hose is cheaper but I have heard that those hoses do break or burst and can cause water damage.
I wonder why they don't use brass nipples?. I've seen so many water heaters fail because of this galvanized dielectric crap nipples that they Supply with you with.
Most new tanks already have the dielectric nipples already installed, the dielectric unions act as a buffer between the incoming brass or copper water lines. I will tell you that I've removed leaking water heaters with the dielectric nipples installed and have seen corrosion inside both the hot and cold water inlet and outlet???? Go figure!
How do you tighten the bottom part to nipple? After hand tightening I turned half circle with wrench and I see tiny droplets when the tank is full. I have tighten them more, but I'm worried that if I tighten more it may break?
Most new heaters have the nipples pre installed, but if you're installing new one's. I use Teflon tape followed by Mega-Lock pipe joint compound on boths sides. Hand tighten into the heater and then install the union, then with a channel lock pliers or 10" pipe wrench drive both of them home at the same time.
Expensive! A lot of differing opinions on the use of dielectric nipples and unions, I still use them but all to often still find a build up of corrosion inside of them. Years back I was using brass nipples and they seemed to last the life of the water heater?
I put Teflon on my nipples on the water heater and screwed my dielectric fittings down as tight as possible and it just doesn't stop dripping water no matter how tight I crank down on those fittings no matter how little amount of Teflon or how much Teflon I use it's still leaks I just can't understand why same thing with one of the compression fittings I put on I have one compression fitting in the entire loop because I couldn't get the supply to the building to stop dripping enough to weld on sweat on a valve so I put a compression valve on there and the matter how tight I crank down on it the fucker still drips. It's just a 5 gallon hot water heater in a storefront business as the biggest pain in the ass job I've ever done
I believe the nipples on top of conventional water heaters are threaded into tank and they are stainless steel. This should act as a dielectric solution in most cases. Am I correct??
I personally have not seen stainless steel dielectric nipples, only galvanized with the plastic liner. But I see no reason why a lined SS nipple wouldn’t work.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Do you understand what the dielectric union is supposed to do? It is supposed to prevent galvanic corrosion by insulating one threaded end from the other threaded end. The solid metal 'dielectric nipple' (what a misnomer), will allow electricity to flow from one end to the other, and cause corrosion. So it won't work.
So you said the nipples are 'stainless steel threaded into the tank' how would that create an insulating barrier as would a dielectric union? It is threaded into the tank - making a perfect electrically conducting galvanic pathway.
@@SF-fb6lv Camco Dielectric Water Heater Heat Trap. Prevents escape of heat through the inlet and outlet when flow stops. Self cleaning fittings prevent corrosion. Dielectric inert thermoplastic lining. Color coded cold inlet and hot outlet. Ball check style. Specifications: 3/4 MPT x 3/4 MPT x 3' length MIP. Dimensions: 5.5'H x 3.63'W x 1.14'D. can be purchased anywhere.
@@dontblameme6328 There are good reasons why copper isn't king anymore bro, get with the times. Blows my mind how many of you all think copper is great.
Technically yes, here's the technical definition - Also known as galvanic corrosion, electrolysis happens when two dissimilar metals are directly connected causing the lesser of the two metals to corrode. For the process to occur, the two metals have to also come into contact with a conductive electrolyte. What is electrolysis between dissimilar metals? In other words, when two different metals are in contact with each other in the presence of moisture, there will be a flow of current from one metal (the “anode”) to the other metal (the “cathode”), and one will be eaten away, or disintegrated, while the other (the “cathode”) will remain intact.
100% agreed and the way to go, been using this method on personal water heaters without issue since 1988. Metal wise separation of Church and State. Might not be a popular comment but it's accurate. Another excellent video for the DIY.
Thank you, Sir! Regards, Bob.
The dielectric joint alongside the dielectric nipple is proven, and you proved it. Thanks for doing this video and showing proof that in eight years there is no galvanic corrosion. Great results! Thanks, Bob.
Thank you for checking out the video! Much appreciated.
Thanks, I'll do this from now on
To each their own, I suppose. I have installed water heaters about 20 years ago that I have installed copper male adapters into the top of the heaters and have been back to those houses multiple times with no galvanic corrosion at the heater or on the piping and/or water pressure issues with the hot water in the house. Heaters still work great, too. I normally don't install dielectric unions because the gaskets normally end up leaking because expansion and contraction due to changing water temps and the chlorine in the water. Almost every dielectric union I've taken out has had rust form at the steel half of the union either on the face of the union or inside the opening.
The dielectric nipples I still install and have very minimal problems with the connections to those nipples corroding out. As long as you make the connections properly, the connections usually last as long as the heaters do. The dielectric nipple sleeves or liners do fail as well, but it's very seldom you see that. Just my take.
Hi Bob, nice to hear someone who knows what they are talking about! One thing that surprised me during electrical testing on the dielectric union assemblies I made is that it is possible for them to conduct across IF THEY ARE WET. A 'salt bridge' of sorts can form. I dried out the components (they should stay dry in use, as only the inside should be exposed to water), reassembled, retested, and the conductivity dropped back to zero from one side to the other. Also, I noticed my expansion tank has stainless threads, so I'm putting a dielectric union between that expansion tank and the copper lines also.
Those 'dielectric nipples' will NOT function as a replacement for proper dielectric unions, though.
When installed into the plumbing system, there will always be an "electrical bridge" between the galv and the copper via the water.....As already noted, these unions greatly reduce the problem but don't stop the effect all together...Another point to consider is that how the system was earthed/grounded originally may have compounded the issue, and although the dielectric union has physically stopped the problem, the earthing/grounding aspect may still need looking at. Given that a dielectric union essentially isolates the tank from the copper pipe, fitting it may have implications on the earthing/grounding else where in the house, so this aspect should be considered anyway....
Thank you for sharing this . I installed a water heater for my mother-in-law 17 years ago and I don't recall anything about these . I'm installing a new water heater in my home and was told to make sure to use these couplings . Thank you for explaining why .
Glad it helped
Another no non-sense piece of advice. Great job Bob.
Thanks 👍
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Bob, why pressure relief valves and drain valves (brass) are fitted to water heaters without dielectric protection? I never figured out why they are treated different than the water in/out.
Steve Lav installs copper fittings directly to the dielectric nipples on the new hot water heaters that he sells. He has remarked in several of his videos that dielectric unions are not necessary. Flexible copper lines are common in my area so I installed new copper lines when I replaced my water heater and those copper lines had plastic gaskets which I assume are for electrical isolation.
Fact is I've seen corrosion inside those factory installed insulated nipples with and without the die electric unions. I would assume the quality of the water has an effect on things!
You've done it again Bob. My super wanted me to order him several of these and I had never seen them before. I wanted to see how the connections were made. It was very helpful for you to clarify male vs female because he wants male ones. BTW, he did not like the Walton pipe extractors you recommended because the box end is too short for extracting pipes that are located inside walls. Can't win all the time. Thanks again.
The explanation about how the female section is connected inside the WH, and using a long nipple was very helpful.
Loved the video will be shopping around and buying a few for my properties we’re never to old to learn new thing’s
Just replaced my 21 yr old Bradford White electric 50gl water heater, it had the dielectric union. My new Rheem 50gl was also installed using a new dielectric union as well.
Just wish I had time to go with another Bradford White this time.
Thanks for the tip on the dielectric union. I installed a new electric water heater and chose A.O. Smith 50 gallon 500 series. I did not want to use the metal braid supply lines as I had one leak in the past. Fortunately my son saw a little water on the basement floor and we fixed before it became a real problem. For this install, I sweat the fittings and pipe together and used the dielectric union you describe 3/4" copper sweat to female pipe thread. I also used the Teflon tape and Megaloc you describe in another video. After everything was assembled, NO LEAKS! If I had any leaks it would have been a real kick in the nuts, I purposely take my time and measure twice and cut once sort of thing so I don't have to fix a bad joint etc.
Excellent Stuff Tom 👍
Couldn't shower that night? Shouldn't be tinkering around.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thank you for taking the time to check out the video!
Wow! This just might be the best how-to video I've seen yet. (and I've watched hundreds!)
Looks good all your info is good using blue block best stuff. you just taught alot of amature plumbers valuable info stainless 304 and brass for the win $$$ moral is dont mix farious and non farious metals spend the extra money and buy quality and do research before doin plumbing
Excellent information! I have a Bradford White 50gal Water Heater and I'm replacing the OEM straight Magnesium anode rod with a flexible Magnesium one (my ceiling is to low to insert a straight anode rod). I want to use the original style Heat Trap but the problem I see is that on the new anode rod nipple there's a plastic core insert that I would have to cut out & remove because the Heat Trap will not fit. My question is; should I go through the hassle of removing this plastic core just to use a Heat Trap? Should I not use the Heat Trap at all or can I extend the nipple with an adapter then insert the Heat Trap then connect my flex hose to finish the connection. Thank you very much!
Personally, I think the heat traps were more of a marketing ploy. Depending on the quality of the water in your area they more than likely will end up not functioning due to scale build up. I wouldn't stress about it and eliminate them if it make the job easier. Thanks for checking out the video, much appreciated!!
@@BobsPlumbingVideosThank you again for your help!
Corrugated stainless. 36" worth costs less than the union, dielectric's built in, tolerates small movements during a typical earthquake or sudden need to scoot the tank out, and you don't need a massive wrench that demands a foot of clearance to spin them. If a washer fails they're of an easily-obtainable size.
Stainless is supposed to galvanically corrode galvanized too.
if the hot water tank manufacturer make dielectric union on their nipples, then why would you need to add those nipples that you are talking about?
Good point.
Duh
You don’t need dielectric unions anymore they are pretty much useless nowadays
Bob, good close up with the camera with very good advice. Like the ideal of getting the union higher off the water heater and using both teflon tape and mega lock.
Thank you William, regards, Bob.
Hi Bob . . . Thank's for the tip of using Dielectric Unions - I will keep it in mind if and when my hot water heater has to be replaced
knock on wood hope it will be long before it will be replaced - good video .
Thanks Pete, regards. Bob.
This was a great common sense video
Hola les saluda un humilde y honesto maestro gasfiter desde chile dios les bendiga
Home centers and hardware stores seldom carry these. Plumbing supply house is the way to go.
Bob if there are any pinholes in the tank liner which there usually is this is where galvanic corrosion occurs leading to a tank leak I replaced a commercial one in an apartment building it had two strikes galvanized main runs copper runs up to the top floor with no dielectric coupler on the tank it had a hole in the side in 5 years just as the previous tanks had done unfortunately 1 1/4 couplers are expensive 400 dollars each but like I told the owner if the 1200dollars tank last 10 years or more it's worth it also most of the tee's attaching the galvanized pipe to the risers were leaking badly
I've seen corrosion happen inside the inlet and outlet dielectric nipples even with the dielectric unions more than once?
Great video.
I assume that all the silver colored metal in the di-electric union is steel, so that you are screwing the steel female thread of the di-electric union onto the steel male thread of the water heater's di-electric nipple.
I'm currently installing with difficulty a bottom entry water heater by threading a 3/4" brass elbow directly onto the di-electric nipple that sticks out of the tank horizontally. The challenge is to get the elbow turned upward to 12 o'clock to mate with a vertical copper pipe, and at the same time, neither under nor over tighten the brass elbow.
Unfortunately during my first attempt, I used only teflon paste without teflon tape and 4 hours after installation, I got a 1 drop per hour leak at the junction of the di-electric nipple and the brass elbow.
I now have two choices: (1) tear everything apart and rebuild it with the identical new fittings, but this time using both teflon tape and teflon paste, or (2) use a dielectric union with a copper elbow soldered to it to create the 90 degree transition from horizontal to vertical.
Choosing option 2 allows me to readjust the threaded connection between the di-electric nipple and the di-electric union, should it leak, without having to cut apart any adjacent copper plumbing. If ever the di-electric union's rubber seal leaks or if ever the thread sealant leaks, it will be easy to mechanically disassemble the dielectric union without having to unsolder anything else.
One disadvantage of option 1, which doesn’t exist with option 2, is that the di-electric nipple supplied with the water heater has male threads which were rolled as opposed to the female threads of my brass elbow which were milled. Mixing rolled male threads and milled female threads does not create as intimate a mechanical connection as mixing milled male and milled female threads. In the former case, the sealant has a bigger challenge filling the larger microscopic spiral channel between the male and female threaded parts. That alone could explain my 1 drop per hour leak.
Update: In my last paragraph above, I suggest that the disadvantage of option 1 does not exist with option 2. In fact, with either of the 2 options, a fitting with a female thread has to be screwed onto the male di-electric nipple of the water heater. For both options, that means getting the tightness (torque) of the female fitting correct and using the best sealant method. With option 1, the tightness might not be optimum because the elbow has to always be positioned pointing upward at 12 o'clock.
The rubber seal of the di-electric union looks a lot like the rubber seal in the water meter nipple of my water meter. My 43 year old water meter has had its rubber seal changed only once 22 years ago as a precaution as the original rubber seal was 20 years old. Neither of the 2 seals has ever leaked. This observation may be of comfort to users of di-electric unions who worry about the rubber seal lasting the lifespan of the water heater.
I would appreciate it if someone would state how many turns after being finger tight, a female brass fitting can be wrenched onto a male steel di-electric nipple and still not be under or over torqued.
This answered my question about brass & galvanised being directly connected.
The comment section helped, too.
awesome video info, your my new go to guy,take care stay safe.
Appreciate it, thanks for checking out the video. Bob
Of course galvanic corrosion, pitting and stress corrosion cracking depends on whole host of factors pressures and temperatures in the heater, water chemistry things like hardness (which impacts electrical conductivity), ph values, aggregate states and in commercial industrial setting More particularly start and shut down processes. I agree not even those dielectric unions will protect against very corrosive environments but a standard copper to steel with or With out brass unions may be stable for long periods in non corrosive environments. The point is how many pros really understand or bother with this prior to specifying the type of water heater to use. Very few if any in a residential setting more prior testing on water chemistry side may be undertaken in an industrial setting where the costs are much greater in getting things wrong.
Dieltric unions are ABSOLUTELY necessary for ant water heater install
Bob, what do you think about using silicone based gel on that rubber gasket to prolong the life of the rubber?
Bob I usually buy state water heater from the plumbing supply but my neighbor has a Rudd. Home Depot special 40-gallon water heater Natural Gas the nipples on the top or corroding no dielectric union do you know on a Ruud water heater if you could just change the nipple on top of the tank
I use A.O. Smith And Bradford White water heaters, both have dielectric nipples installed and can be removed. I generally install dielectric unions and than convert to copper. I don't know for sure about Rudd, but I've never come across a nipple on a water heater that I could not remove.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos thank you Bob
We used dielectric and connected too with shark tooth.
Great video Bob.
Thank you, your video was educational and you are a good instructor.
is there a torque spec between the two no to over toght and crush the o ring gasket
Not the I'm aware of? Good and hand tight plus 1/2 to 3/4 turn with a channel lock pliers or pipe wrench.
THANK YOU for this video. It seems I'm having a problem with my HWH tripping the breaker, even after corrosion problems shorted out the heater on the last one - less than a year ago!
I'm not sure how far 'upstream' this cause exists (pipe metal-mixing), so is there such a thing as a pre-WH 'conditioner' that might remove contaminants just prior to entering the WH?
DIYer here. 1. I assume the threaded collar needs to be the same metal as the nipple it is screwing onto, such as water heater out. When buying dielectric couplers, how do you know you are buying one that is compatible with your water heater? The coupler and outlet nipple should be the same metal. 2. How to know what metal is used on the water heater water outlet nipple? 3. I thought galvanized is not for use with potable water. Are the WH nipples galvanized steel? Maybe because they are lined with plastic they are acceptable?
Most modern heaters are already fitted with die electric nipples, they are simply lined galvanized nipples. Galvanized waters lines were common in the '40s and '50s, they eventually would close up inside (hardening of the arteries) and water pressure would be non-existent. We ripped them out and installed brass plumbing.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks for the reply!
Great explanation!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video Bob. Great instruction and well worth the time to watch.
Any advice when working with PEX piping?
Would a dielectric union still be required?
You can install a Dielectric Union (female iron pipe threads both ends) on the water heater, followed by a male by P.E.X. adapter.
When has that been a plumber's code in NYC to use a dielectric union on the hot and cold nipples of a water heater?
To my knowledge, I don't believe it's stated in the code or enforced in N.Y.C.
Bobby you're beautiful. Thanks @@BobsPlumbingVideos
Do you need a dielectric union in the event that you are using stainless steel flex lines?
No Sir!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks for the answer! I've received a few different answers on that.
7 wraps with teflon! Guess i should use more.
i am planning to add these babies to my dhw inlet & outlet. i am also adding an expansion tank (et) to my system. i believe the et inlet is stainless, would you say i need a dielectric union there too.
You can cut a tee into the cold water supply feeding the tank and install the expansion tank, no need for die electric fittings in that case.
Brass is allowed to connect between copper and galvanized according to code
Though dielectric union is the way to go with water heaters.
If it’s a riser install or bathroom repair in pre-war building, you can use brass nipple between galvanized and copper
New York? Brass is less of a threat, but for a couple of extra bucks, I use dielectric unions and nipples on all of my installations. Peace of mind! Regards, Bob.
Doesn't work. Doesn't even make sense. Look at a galvanic potential table; still too much voltage between the brass and the iron/steel/galvanization.
Great video. Subscribed. Galvanic corrosion fascinates me. I am having problems with the corrosion of the 3/4 x 5 inch steel nipple that the builder's plumber used between my brass hose bibs and the copper female connection behind the brick fascia on my house . I have already replaced one leaker and the threaded end that went into copper was almost half gone (didn't understand and reused a steel nipple) and it is already putting out rusty water again when first opened after a long while. Another original bib on the other side of the house also gives the rusty water when first opened after a while. Will using a brass 5 inch nipple into the copper prevent the corrosion cell from forming?
Thanks for the subscription, yes brass into copper will solve the problem.
What about using a stainless steel nipples. My dialect nipples rotted out after 15 years. They were the same one you showed in the video that came with the tank.
15 years is not a bad run, but stainless would most definitely work!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I looked this morning and it's been 17 years actually. I changed their anode rod about every 5 years.
Good vid! Got a question- I currently have copper flex pipe (with pre-formed flange) going right to my tank and it's corroding. The other end of the flex pipe is soldered. Is there a union that would accommodate such a set-up?
You can purchase 3/4 die electric unions that are female pipe thread on on end (screw rite onto the nipple coming out of the tank) and 3/4" copper on the opposite end.
Which part do you really tightin up with pipe wrench ? I cranked on the nut and washer got caught in threads. Is it suppose to be really tight on heater nipple ? Or hand tight with a nice turn
Aren't those little check valves no heat traps?
Great video Bob you've done it again
Thank you! I keep trying! Regards, Bob
Am a new subscriber thank you for all your informative videos
Thank you, my friend, for taking the time to watch. Regards, Bob.
Maybe u can mention shower faucet cartridges that have no seats or springs.pfister.I know your talking about water heater.But I was working on shower faucet yesterday.
I’ll add that to my “ to do” list! Thank you, regards. Bob.
I want to replace the plastic drain valve on my new aosmith. Do I need the dielectric pipe and union for that?
I keep seeing everyone say you can mix brass and galvanized, but everywhere I see brass touching galvanized the galvanized is corroded as hell.
They have copper and stainless dielectric water heater flex hoses but the nuts on them are brass, so you still get galvanic corrosion from the brass nuts touching galvanized.
Got the nipple out and the anode. Plumber did the connections today. Had to put old anode out till new one arrives. These should be universal. No one wants to make this easy. The plumbing supply place in Brooklyn, let’s call it Brooklyn plumbing supply, says, most people just replace the whole water heater. What scammers. $17 vs $1000+. Crazy
So i took an ohmmeter and read under 1 ohm across the already corroded dielectric unions i installed 4 months ago when i put in the new water heater.I thought that i should have had infinity or something alot more than a short across the dielectric union . Where did i go wrong any ideas?
I have the same thing. what happens if you dont change the rusting nibble?
I make it business to change them, but a the very least clean it out as best you can.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos any consequenses of not changing or clean the fitting?Mine is starting to "sweat" small drop of water
Today I bought an all-brass dielectric union. I chose all brass because my water heater's galvanized steel dielectric nipple is lined with plastic and I wanted my new dielectric union to have as little steel exposed to water as possible, so I paid over 4 times the price of a steel/brass dielectric union to get all brass. Bob, in your video at about 10:22, we see you wrapping the teflon tape around the end of the dielectric nipple 7 times. Is that how thick you usually go for this type of connection? Like the dielectric union featured in your video, mine has a knurled surface on the half of the union that screws onto the nipple. What kind of wrench do you use to grip the knurled surface and how many turns, if any, past finger tight do you go? How tight do you squeeze the rubber gasket so that it won't leak over time? Thanks for any answers.
I usually go 5 to 7 times around followed by MegaLoc. I use a 440 channellock pliers to tighten them and I would say for the Unions hand tight plus one full turn with my channel lock pliers.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thank you so much for your valuable information which I am sure many of your subscribers will also appreciate.
Thanks
i prefer braided hoses....to a brass Ball Valveon both cold and hot supply side.
what about copper Flexes
Don't see them often here in N.Y. but they do sell them in the big box stores.
Bob, thanks for the video. Two questions: I live in Rockaway Queens. City just replaced water Mains. Had to shut water off nine times. Two days ago brown water had to be flushed via fire hydrants. My hot water heater had corrosion but one day after, cold line blew. Flooded basement. Nipple down to 5% diameter opening we with corrosion. Did the sediment in the city’s work contribute to this? Secondly, is the tank salvageable if the plumber can get the nipples out?
Thanks
Jason
How old is the heater?
6 years. Warrant ended 2/19!!!! Put in after Sandy destroyed basement
It’s a Bradford White 80g gas. Never drained, never replaced rods :(
My opinion is that the incident with the city didn't contribute to the problem.If the tank is not leaking and the plumber can replace the nipples, sure it'll most likely operate. How long I could not say, it's out of warranty so it's basically your call. If it's making hot water and keeping up with the demand, go for it!
BobsPlumbingVideos
Thanks Bob, really appreciate your advice.
J
New to your channel
I use copper female adapters and 3 wraps of blue monster tape...no leaks, no corrosion after 4 years.
4 years is nothing.
If I isolate the tank by using pex to connect it, does this remove the electrolysis effect?
NO.
Bob I tie a wet washcloth to hold that so I don't melt the washer I put it up about a foot away
Great Idea!
Great video
Thanks for your support Robert. Regards, Bob.
What if we do not want to plumb with cooper and want to used cpvc?
CPVC is junk, it becomes hard, brittle, and then breaks over time... imo.. I'd never use it, go with Pex instead if you want to use plastic.
@@MrInfoPhilly I agree with the pex comment but I am amazed at how so many people still use copper and think it is great. Copper sucks so bad. It loves to leak and it taints the water. Why do you love that???????
Is there any problem (galvanic corission) between copper and brass materials?
No! only between ferrous and non-ferrous metals. Copper and brass are both non-ferrous metals. Mix either of them with steel, galvanized steel, (ferrous metals) or anything you can stick a magnet to, and the corrosion will take place.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos thanks
Why not just use flexible water lines with brass connectors so the next replacement is easier in 5-10 years?
Good question! Not commonly done here and I don't know why. In all the years of doing this, I can count on one hand how many times I've seen the flexible water lines. Thanks for commenting! Bob.
The flexible copper lines used to be common in my area and have the plastic gaskets on both ends to provide electrical isolation. I think a lot of home builders are now using the stainless steel braided hose on new water heaters because the hose is cheaper but I have heard that those hoses do break or burst and can cause water damage.
I wonder why they don't use brass nipples?. I've seen so many water heaters fail because of this galvanized dielectric crap nipples that they Supply with you with.
It’s it still necessary on these newer tanks that have dielectric nipples? Is redundancy good or not worth it?
Most new tanks already have the dielectric nipples already installed, the dielectric unions act as a buffer between the incoming brass or copper water lines. I will tell you that I've removed leaking water heaters with the dielectric nipples installed and have seen corrosion inside both the hot and cold water inlet and outlet???? Go figure!
Great, informative video! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
How do you tighten the bottom part to nipple? After hand tightening I turned half circle with wrench and I see tiny droplets when the tank is full. I have tighten them more, but I'm worried that if I tighten more it may break?
Most new heaters have the nipples pre installed, but if you're installing new one's. I use Teflon tape followed by Mega-Lock pipe joint compound on boths sides. Hand tighten into the heater and then install the union, then with a channel lock pliers or 10" pipe wrench drive both of them home at the same time.
Heat trap without expansion tank is dangerous!
We don't have PRV's here in NYC, expansions tanks are not required.
hi Bob,,,whats your feeling on stainless nipples?
Expensive! A lot of differing opinions on the use of dielectric nipples and unions, I still use them but all to often still find a build up of corrosion inside of them. Years back I was using brass nipples and they seemed to last the life of the water heater?
Why don't y'all just use plastic pipes and connections? Honest question.
NYC code won't allow us to use it!
I wouldn’t trust those rubber heat traps. What happens when the diaphragm breaks off and lodges itself in your pipes!
I put Teflon on my nipples on the water heater and screwed my dielectric fittings down as tight as possible and it just doesn't stop dripping water no matter how tight I crank down on those fittings no matter how little amount of Teflon or how much Teflon I use it's still leaks I just can't understand why same thing with one of the compression fittings I put on I have one compression fitting in the entire loop because I couldn't get the supply to the building to stop dripping enough to weld on sweat on a valve so I put a compression valve on there and the matter how tight I crank down on it the fucker still drips. It's just a 5 gallon hot water heater in a storefront business as the biggest pain in the ass job I've ever done
Use your teflon, 4,5,6,7 times around, then follow with blue block thread sealant.shorturl.at/6iaD7
NEVER over tighten a dielectric union.... It will fail if you crush the plastic gasket!!!
I believe the nipples on top of conventional water heaters are threaded into tank and they are stainless steel. This should act as a dielectric solution in most cases. Am I correct??
I personally have not seen stainless steel dielectric nipples, only galvanized with the plastic liner. But I see no reason why a lined SS nipple wouldn’t work.
of course it does. this guy is old school. you did need it in the past, now however with braided lines and fittings, those unions are not needed.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Do you understand what the dielectric union is supposed to do? It is supposed to prevent galvanic corrosion by insulating one threaded end from the other threaded end. The solid metal 'dielectric nipple' (what a misnomer), will allow electricity to flow from one end to the other, and cause corrosion. So it won't work.
So you said the nipples are 'stainless steel threaded into the tank' how would that create an insulating barrier as would a dielectric union? It is threaded into the tank - making a perfect electrically conducting galvanic pathway.
@@SF-fb6lv Camco Dielectric Water Heater Heat Trap. Prevents escape of heat through the inlet and outlet when flow stops. Self cleaning fittings prevent corrosion. Dielectric inert thermoplastic lining. Color coded cold inlet and hot outlet. Ball check style. Specifications: 3/4 MPT x 3/4 MPT x 3' length MIP. Dimensions: 5.5'H x 3.63'W x 1.14'D. can be purchased anywhere.
LMAO Troll Alert! Very nice to see from an older generation!
Rule #1 When you start talking about female nipples, thats when the trouble starts !
😂😂😂😂!!!
Just use pex and problem solved. Done many of them and never had any problems.
use pex
I considered that. That would work great.
Nope. Pex sux. It's for lazy people that are not willing to master the trade.
@@dontblameme6328 The future is now.
@@dontblameme6328 There are good reasons why copper isn't king anymore bro, get with the times. Blows my mind how many of you all think copper is great.
Isn't the copper and steel still connected via grounding wire?
Technically yes, here's the technical definition - Also known as galvanic corrosion, electrolysis happens when two dissimilar metals are directly connected causing the lesser of the two metals to corrode. For the process to occur, the two metals have to also come into contact with a conductive electrolyte.
What is electrolysis between dissimilar metals?
In other words, when two different metals are in contact with each other in the presence of moisture, there will be a flow of current from one metal (the “anode”) to the other metal (the “cathode”), and one will be eaten away, or disintegrated, while the other (the “cathode”) will remain intact.
Great video.
Thanks for the visit