Training for 9A/V17 Boulder • Aidan Roberts Board Climbing
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- Опубликовано: 12 июн 2024
- In this episode, we get an insight into how Aidan trains on his home board for hard outdoor projects. This includes a circuit of boulders on his woody as well as a number of replicas. The most impressive of which is his Core Climbing 'Burden of Dreams' replica, which was molded using 3D printed shapes from Aidan's original scans. Unfortunately, the conditions were far too warm for Aidan to make much progress on this at the moment, we'll have to do a follow-up episode when is colder...
Big thanks to Sam Pratt for the images of Aidan on 'Burden of Dreams'.
Sam's Insta: samm_pratt
Website: www.samprattphotography.com/
Thanks to Leo and Core Climbing for molding Aidan's 'Burden of Dreams' holds.
Core Climbing Insta: coreclimbing
Website: coreclimbing.co.uk/
Featuring:
Aidan Roberts: aidan.roberts98
Sam Lawson: _sam_lawson_
Arona Morrison: aronamorrison
Wedge: wedge_climbing
Timestamps:
Intro: (0:00)
Why board climb?: (0:39)
Warm-up: (1:01)
Board Session: (2:35)
Board Replicas: (8:30)
Burden of Dreams: (9:12)
Board Replicas: (13:58)
Hard Boulders: (16:16)
Training volume and conditioning: (17:27)
Grip challenge: (17:53)
Very hard boulders: (19:12)
Outro: (21:56) 
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This video makes me feel like Aidan has done the first V18 on his board but just doesn't like to grade it
Haha he may well have...
It's crazy how these videos are simultaneously the most relaxing and the most psyche-inducing stuff I ever watched. The level of power on screen is out of this world, yet it is calm, informative, and humorous at the same time. It's like the amalgam of Mellow's raw power, Ondra's production value, and Eric's relatableness (if that's even a word). Really sick.
Thanks so much! Love getting comments like this 😁
same for me ,just lay back and enjoy
Who’s Eric?
@@carlosarboleda8993 karlson
"They all face bad positions." quote got me. Love the humor of the edit on top of the obviously incredible climbing. Huge fan!
Thanks so much!
Aidan is such a humble guy being such a beast at the same time. Watching him on this video is like watching the kid on his favourite playground, just feel the happines and passion. Inspiration! Thank You!
Couldn't agree more! Glad you enjoyed it 💪
Exactly. I just stumbled onto this video, dont follow pro climbers much so ive no idea who this guy is, except a. A beast and b. The nicest guy
16:55 That reaction is absolutely amazing.
Having those scanned holds is epic!
Pretty next level 👌
More of this please! Love Aidans style and it's so cool to see the future of projecting hard boulders.
Thanks so much! We'll definitely do more in the future
I still remember sitting at Bodhi‘s in Magic Wood on a rainy day in 2018 and Aiden sitting next to me. I had know idea how strong he was until we started talking about his projects in magic wood. He is such a humble dude. It was a pleasure. Keep the videos coming!
I know some find board climbing boring, but I absolutely love watching it. If you can do more of this, please do! Keep killing it.
Thank you so much! We'll definitely do more of this kind of thing.
Been waiting for this since hearing about the holds on the podcast, definitely got to be the future
It's pretty next level, the texture on them is ridiculously detailed. Bit of a shame the conditions weren't right for decent burns, we'll do another one when it's colder 💪👌
@@WEDGECLIMBING definitely begs the question if core and other hold brands would ever sell and market boulder replicas, so you could try 3 star boulders from around the world in your own gym. I guess the only restriction is the wall angle and problems that climb most like a board problem.
@@Aitonater it would be a cool idea. I know of a few individual replica holds, but not complete boulders
Just discovered this channel, I'm going to watch Everything. The send vibes are off the charts.
Thanks so much! Enjoy 😁
His strength is mind blowing. I agree with the comment that he probably sent a v18 on his board 😂
When the cameraman is stronger than the athlete he is recording haha
Aidan’s warmups look insane, and his training: Sending 8Bs and 8Cs left and right like it’s nothing, impressive to watch. And the moves! the moves are crazy.
Would love to see more of these trainings, even if it’s to see him or you falling continuously on burden’s first move.
Really the attempts are as interesting as the send.
Although a send of this particular boulder, given it might be harder than the outside version, would be totally outrageous haha
The editing is perfect too. Simple, effective, hearing the simple discussion while you try stuff, and have a little more insights from aidan in the form of an interview, just perfect.
Everything is just perfect, awesome work, awesome athletes!
Thanks so much! We'll definitely have to do more of these 💪
I can’t believe how easy he makes things look that I can’t even comprehend the difficulty of. A true example of raw talent and dedication.
Really fascinating watch this one and a great insight to his view on training. Thank you for taking the time to make this content.
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it :D It's pretty mind-blowing to see such hard boulders look so steady...
Hope we get to see more of a Aidan working his replica of BOD. Those 3D printed holds are crazy
We'll have to do a follow up in better conditions 👌
Minor distinction but he printed moulds for the holds not the holds themselves
@@kaelanm-s3919 we did print holds as positives and core climbing molded those
@@marcbasmer oh cool, did you try climbing on the 3d printed versions or were they too brittle?
@@kaelanm-s3919 I tried printing climbing holds in the past, but most printing materials aren't nearly abrasive resistant enough. also due to the size of these holds I printed them pretty thin walled to save some time (nonetheless some holds took almost 40h)
I've been waiting for it so badly 🔥🔥
Amazing going and documenting, he seems like a type of bouldering scientist evaluated lots of the issues braking them down and not just focusing on the strength side of it.
Nice one go steady
Thanks! Yeah he's very measured with his approach to hard climbing, lots to learn from!
Say what you will about genetics, but videos like these show the dedication that separates the great from the greatest
Aidans are the strongest!
Absolutely loved this, as always.
Thanks!
Aidans really matured as an athlete. Exciting to think where we could take the sport!
Just wanted to say thank you for raising the bar on how climbing is portrayed nowadays. Pushing a necessary revolution. Hope you get the support needed to keep it up, cause we don´t deserve all this work for free. Cheers!
Thanks so much for the support!
another classic!! thanks for the psyche
Cheers!
@@WEDGECLIMBING Collab! Tom makes great content too! Trip to Oz can't be bad! ;)
@@joolsgrommers1466 I definitely wouldn't mind a trip out there...
Love this guy! Seems like a really cool dude and very humble!
Top guy 👌
This is the type of climbing content that inspires me a whole lot! Amazing
Wow this is literally next level training! So focused, so specific. Good reminder to train hard for the prime condies😃
Another banger from the best climbing channel! Would you consider making the trip to film him on burden of dreams for real? That would make for a legendary film
Thanks! I'd love to, but another film maker is already making a film of the process. Should be good once Aidan smashes it out 💪💪
Waaahhhh no way!! Who's doing that, you guys and Jim have been the squad!
@@dannygrout92 I think David Petts is making one, I'm sure it'll be good 💪
I imagine we'll have plenty of other trips on the horizon though!
Booooo should be you making history bro
Absolutely love the vibe of this video. Thanks a lot!
You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it!
Here's a weird, mad-scientist suggestion - which is probably completely ridiculous:
High-end gaming PCs use mini-refrigeration units to cool their processors.
I wonder if you could install these behind each of the Burden replica holds to cool them to a more realistic, and usable temperature?
Just a thought :)
Probably if you cool down the holds but the air is still warm you are gonna get a lot of condensation on the holds
@@user-ih3jl9um6e True! Good point
What a beast. Awesome video as always guys!
Thanks!
I watch one of your videos when I can’t be bothered finger boarding or training and then I get so psyched I pull so hard I rip the holds of the wall. Amazing content! 😃
😅 thanks! Glad it gets you psyched
Just so impressed with Aidan's power, his self confidence, but his humility and sense of humour too. He makes it seem relatively easy to reach these heights, while also giving the impression that it's totally nails. Such a wonderful contrast. Another brilliant video that really makes me want to climb as hard as I can and almost makes me forget how ancient I am!!! thanks guys. Hoping to see Aidan climbing something that no one else can very soon.
Thanks! Glad it got you psyched.
He definitely has the effect of making you think you can also climb just as hard... If only 😅
Absolutely love everything about this. Hard climbing but super chill and funny. Also just listened to your podcast for the first time today, really enjoying it as well!
Thanks!
thanks for the psyche 8-) !
You're welcome!
I need to start donating every time I watch this lol
Thanks so much!
Thanks for the high quality content. Really enjoyed watching this and would love to see more in the future. Good job.
Thanks! We'll defo do more 💪
On a more serious note: really inspiring and a bunch of great advice sprinkled in too. Top notch! Revisit with better connies for sure! I think a ‘home board series’ would actually be really interesting and informative. House rules are definitely a thing too. I’ve been on one where you have to do a pull up on the final hold(s) for example. Loads of cool quirky things. Mine has a pull up challenge that Ash couldn’t do (yet)… 🙃
Exactly what i need to get psyched to train in my own woodie!
Keep it up u guys are awesome !!
Glad it got you psyched!
Thank you for another great video. Aidan is just such a crusher!!!!
fantastic videography, so smooth to watch
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed 😁
Beast, and all round awesome bloke, so humble. Really well produced video as well as always
Thanks!
You are massively strong. I use the same bracelet after a TFCC injury in november. I only use it for pull ups, and bodyweight training. It is annoying when bouldering or climbing. But so happy to see you use it aswell.
With ever new video you guys are outdoing yourselves. This one is pure awesomeness!!! Next one should be board masterclass for different level climbers.
Thanks! We'll definitely do some more board content in the future
Amazing as always!!!!!!!
Thanks!
I got stronger watching this on my phone, 10/10 would recommend!
Haha, glad you enjoyed it!
@@WEDGECLIMBING I bet if I’d watch this on IMAX, I’d start flashing 8A the next day!
Its amazing to think that i left a comment on a video about aidens home board . and you actually made a video about it !!!
Always looking for suggestions 💪
One of the best ones! Thank you
Thanks!
oh man, this is the most psyched I‘ve been for bouldering in quite a while! Thanks for the inspiration, I‘ll get busy in the workshop and build me some proper replicas of my own project now 🤘🏻 been training similar moves but never paid near as much attention to the details… so cool to see you work this line, I‘ll be so happy for you when you send it! 🙏🏻
Glad you enjoyed!
It's a challenge only 2 people in the world are able to do... good luck on your climb, Aidan!
duuuuude thtis contents is sooooooo cooooool, keep doing it like this!!! thanks a million!!!
Thanks! Will do!
Great video, 2 words about Aidan's level: holy fuck... Super strong for a 19kg boy. Keeping my fingers crossed for a 1st repeat of Burden. You guys inspired me to to make some smaller wooden holds and start trying harder boulders on my home board.
Haha thanks! Glad it got you psyched 💪💪
I like how he is at the least the second person to do exactly reproduce Burden. Shows how crazy hard it is.
As time passes Burden of Dreams will become the very first V18.
This is epic!!
Wow. Seriously, wow!
Thanks!
greatest piano match I have ever seen! really inspiring to start liking board climbing(indoor climbing in general). Just not fun for me but as an aspect for training I should def start! Great video and excited for BOD 2nd ascent!
@20min
Thanks! Board climbing is definitely the best form of indoor climbing and can be good fun once you get some projects on the go 👌
Great stuff. Super inspiring dude this Aidan is. Love your films. Would love to see the full ascent of his hardest board climb sometime. looked insane...
Thanks! We'll have to do a part two when the conditions are better 💪
I really would like to project the "warm up 4" :) lovely attitude and very motivating for "why not train a little"!
So good, as normal. Insane strength
Cheers mate, I guess Aidan is fairly strong as well 😉
Leeeets go. Hyped!
🔥
Not very often you see Aidan getting burnt off - even if it is the 25 keggers challenge 💪
I burn him off all the time, just happens not to be on camera 😉
@@WEDGECLIMBING ayoooo?
This is the content we're here for
Fuck I love this content, Aidan is incredible and has the best personality. Great video guys thanks!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed
Very good!!
Thanks!
I hope one day I'll get to a point in my climbing when skin is a limiting factor, then I'll have made it! As a v6 climber who spends 95% indoors, I find I'm limited by just my weakness lol.
But I love the content as always! Looking strong.
Thanks!
You'll get there pretty fast if you climb outdoors regularly. For instance if a hold is too sharp and you need thicker skin for it. Not a problem you face in a gym usually.
I have noticed that good climbers tend to almost always find something positive in what they are doing.
Great vid guys , really makes me wish I had enough space to slap up my own board .
Thanks!
WAIT YOU ANIMATED THE CITIZENS MUSIC VIDEO LETS GOOOOO
My pulleys hurt just from watching this whatahell
He’s gotta have one of the strongest finger out there
BEAST.
I’d love to see Aidan tackle return of the sleep walker aswell 🎉
sick video!
Thanks!
Those warm up climbs, jeez haha
12:52 This boulder is so Hard, that even on a photograph, he still slipping 😁
amazing vid! Great job!
Thanks!
how steep this board? great episode!
Thanks! I think the woody is 50 degrees and then the replica is 45 💪
@@WEDGECLIMBING Thank you!!
30? would love to see aidan put down all the 11-13 bench marks on the 2016 moonboard set would be sicck to watch
Beast beast beast
more of aidans back please
Watched this 4 times now...
💪💪 glad you've enjoyed it 4 times!
His point at the end about climbing when you are tired is interesting. I'm sure he is right, but I do wonder is there is something to be said for climbing when you're tired forcing you to be as efficient as possible, when can teach you how to be efficient in general. Probably not, but it felt like a sort of off handed comment that now has me thinking.
I think climbing when tired is valuable, but probably not in such intense styles as board climbing
Thanks
Thanks!
Love this!! Really interesting! Would it not help to make an easier version of Burden of Dreams and then progressively make the replica harder? Best of luck on the projects!!
I think that’s what the wood replica is for
@@alexantone5532 he said the wood replica was also to preserve his skin I think.
his warm-up is beyond your project
That first '8B' is definitely more like 8C/+ 😂
😅
Rewatching in prep for the movie on Saturday… just had a thought, did Sam take a flash for picking up the heavy metal ball?
💪💪 It's out Friday 🔥
Unfortunately it was a classic case of 'Second go should have flashed 🤦'
Aidan might just have a 9A+ boulder problem in his training shed 🤔
This dude is weird, but in a charming way.
does anyone know how to get the 3d models of those holds? I would love to print them out just to see how impossible it is lol
So you’re saying with the right technology and money I don’t have to go anywhere I can just build my own versions of them at home 🤔 😂
😅 maybe it's the future...
Please start selling those blue holds!
How much does Aidan rest in between tries??
Edit: thx for this content it is really inspiring.
Thanks!
It's not a set amount by any means, probably 1-3 minutes on harder moves/problems
Why is nobody talking about the v15 boulder he just casually did
Gotta be interesting
Does anyone know what angle the board has and how tall the room is? I think the board is really awesome and maybe sometime soon I also want to build a board like this! Thanks! 3:18
The board is about 45degrees and the room is maybe 2m high 👍
is that a wrist stabilizer he’s wearing? i could use one of those
It's called a wrist widget 👍
Cool vid! what is the intro song?
Thanks!
It's Night shift by Curtis Cole
Why do you grade a boulder differently on a board and outside ? like the last boulder "would probably be 8C outside, so 8B+ board"
In general board grades tend to be a little harder than outside. I'm not really sure why 😅
@@WEDGECLIMBING maybe slightly easier to read/less technical? Also using always the same limited amount of holds makes you more used to them, so after a while you almost can't "flash" a problem really?
pretty sure ive watch this video 25 times plus since it came out been a good sike vid really hope noone sees this comment tho xD
😅 glad you enjoyed it!
This is psych in a can.
Anyone know what that wrist brace is called?
It's called a wrist widget 👍
@@WEDGECLIMBING thanks a bunch!
I am curious what's Aidan's hight and weight?
I think roughly 5'9 and 70kg 👍
@@WEDGECLIMBING Thanks a bunch. I know it's stupid to fixate on stats but sometimes it helps us weaker climbers stop finding excuses about our stats and just concentrate on training hard :)
casually sends V15