It’s so simple, but I so much appreciate the metric. As a Dutchy I’m always wondering about the temps and weights mentioned and end up pausing and googling.
I did some research on the spunding valve as I too am working on the transition. Looks like you get better accuracy with the cheap plastic one as it operates on a manifold system instead of spring pressure.
She’s gorgeous , she makes beer information palatable. I’m actually going to try this pressure ferment, thanks. 80 degree ferment is preety insane by the way but I would love to try. Cheers!
another tip with the 35 liter sunb nose fermenter is to moev the handles from the bottom of the stand to the top - makes for lifting and moving much easier
Check the connectors. When you disassemble them, reassemble them and tighten with shifter/spanner. Have had leaks there before, they don't quite seal properly hand tightened.
Put 15 psi in the keg, close the spunding valve, attach it and then slowly open the valve up until it tries to drop. That will set it to 15psi. I made the same error first time
Recommend food grade o-ring grease(silicone) for the sealing of the o-ring. A pinched o-ring will cause you a problem at some stage. Those pressure gauges aren't very accurate on the spending valve, best to set the spending valve with a small PET test bottle, using a carbonation cap. And then place it on your fermentor. Great content!
Made the same mistake as her buying that stupid type of spunding valve. Doesn't even work as a paper weight. Unfortunately I don't have the SpundIt 2.0 available here, but the KegLand one works great so I have a pair of those. It's a little awkward to place on, I wish I had access to the spundit.
Can recommend the BlowTie from kegland as well. Have 2 and they are really accurate. Nice thing is also that you can use them to pressure transfer. Put it on the gas post of the receiving keg, put a jumper between the liquid posts and then put pressure on your fermentation keg or other vessel. Now slowly open the BlowTie. The beer flows at a rate you can easily control and without much foaming. I do this with kegs that dont even have a shortened dip tube, still without much trub/yeast pickup because of the slow and steady transfer.
little tip..get the kegland spunding valve.i had the same and it loses pressure.can’t wait to see how the beer came.oh! with kveik you better stay on the high side of ph
That spring and poppet style spunding valve needs quite a lot of pressure difference after opening to close that might be why you had some trouble with it a diaphragm stye spunding valve is more precise as it needs a lot less pressure difference to work
Noticed you are using the clawhammer setup a little differently. No Sparge? Any issues with efficiencies doing it that way? I have the 10 gal set up myself.
You brew really early. I can't get up that early. I love myself a digital refractometer and use it all throughout the mashing process. I am actually more likely to use it during mash than the boil. If you have all that pilsner, have you tried to make a traditional Czech premium pils? I was thinking about doing that after I get my glycol :-). That includes the triple decoction. I did make an attempted schwarzbier, and it was rather good and done under pressure. But I have to say that I don't want to call these pseudolagers anymore - they aren't lagers in any way regardless of whether or not you use lager yeast. I find they are so much cleaner than lagers in fact. We need a name for them that is more descriptive - it really has no yeast flavour whatsoever.
Hi great Video, but why are u force carbonating ur wort? When u add CO2 to uncarbonated wort, the CO2 will dissolve into the wort and the pressure will drop. No failing valves or leaks needed...
@@FloraBrewing Right! But if u just pressurize ur headspace a decent amount of CO2 will dissolve into ur Wort(so pressure will drop). I would start with 20 PSI (and it drops down to about 15PSI) and when blow off starts I would reduce to 15PSI, cause the Beer then is saturated if this makes sense to u.
It’s so simple, but I so much appreciate the metric. As a Dutchy I’m always wondering about the temps and weights mentioned and end up pausing and googling.
Same I wish everyone would do it (or we just switch to metric haha)
I’ve been using Kveik Voss for about 18 months in mead. Amazing stuff, especially for juicy, citrusy meads.
I did a lager with that yeast a while back. Turned out really well.
I did some research on the spunding valve as I too am working on the transition. Looks like you get better accuracy with the cheap plastic one as it operates on a manifold system instead of spring pressure.
She’s gorgeous , she makes beer information palatable. I’m actually going to try this pressure ferment, thanks. 80 degree ferment is preety insane by the way but I would love to try. Cheers!
Walkin’ on the wild side, Sarah! Hot tap water! Can’t wait for the tasting. Need to get a thermowell for my Brewzilla. Thanks as always for the video.
I am a firm believer that there is nothing kviek can't do!
Hope to see you brewing soon
another tip with the 35 liter sunb nose fermenter is to moev the handles from the bottom of the stand to the top - makes for lifting and moving much easier
Check the connectors. When you disassemble them, reassemble them and tighten with shifter/spanner. Have had leaks there before, they don't quite seal properly hand tightened.
Looks great! Looking forward to the tasting!🍻
I'm really looking forward to this i live up near Yosemite and and my garage is about 95+ 😆
Just turn it untile the gauge show 15psi and doesn't go down (the screw might be at 17 or something, those settings are not very accurate).
Put 15 psi in the keg, close the spunding valve, attach it and then slowly open the valve up until it tries to drop. That will set it to 15psi. I made the same error first time
same
Recommend food grade o-ring grease(silicone) for the sealing of the o-ring. A pinched o-ring will cause you a problem at some stage. Those pressure gauges aren't very accurate on the spending valve, best to set the spending valve with a small PET test bottle, using a carbonation cap. And then place it on your fermentor. Great content!
another good one flora!
You should have bought a spunding 2.0 $69.00 seems steep but it works flawlessly I own 2
Made the same mistake as her buying that stupid type of spunding valve. Doesn't even work as a paper weight. Unfortunately I don't have the SpundIt 2.0 available here, but the KegLand one works great so I have a pair of those. It's a little awkward to place on, I wish I had access to the spundit.
Can recommend the BlowTie from kegland as well. Have 2 and they are really accurate.
Nice thing is also that you can use them to pressure transfer. Put it on the gas post of the receiving keg, put a jumper between the liquid posts and then put pressure on your fermentation keg or other vessel. Now slowly open the BlowTie. The beer flows at a rate you can easily control and without much foaming. I do this with kegs that dont even have a shortened dip tube, still without much trub/yeast pickup because of the slow and steady transfer.
Eva think of Brewing a mead & with Kveik?
little tip..get the kegland spunding valve.i had the same and it loses pressure.can’t wait to see how the beer came.oh! with kveik you better stay on the high side of ph
When fermenting with kveik, a teaspoon of yeast will be plenty for 20-ish litres of wort
Are we talking Omega Lutra as far as sueto lager yeast goes?
So you are using your clawhammer kettle from the BIAB system on propane?
Got to love the spunding valve. Past my Blichman it pipes through Star San, is that necessary?
how did you like the northstar pils? its one of the malts on my "next to purchase" list. :)
Turned out great! Review coming out as soon as I get out of bed 😂
If you're sitting with a lot of a basic base malt (pils or 2row ect) you should take some and try roast a bit of your own speciality malt 😎
That spring and poppet style spunding valve needs quite a lot of pressure difference after opening to close that might be why you had some trouble with it a diaphragm stye spunding valve is more precise as it needs a lot less pressure difference to work
Thanks! I’m considering changing I don’t trust this one
@@FloraBrewing yeah I can understand that, the one you have now looks a bit like a troublemaker/all over the place
What makes this a lager and not just a Lower Ester Kveik Ale?
literally nothing :) It's a fake lager just a clean beer
I don’t understand how you could get the fermenter to hold pressure and be able to drop the probe in through the prv hole?
Looks to me as though there is thermowell. Probe is in there.
Yup its a thermowell.
Noticed you are using the clawhammer setup a little differently. No Sparge? Any issues with efficiencies doing it that way? I have the 10 gal set up myself.
My efficiency is consistently over 75% so I don't worry about sparging.
It’s probably your really fine crush. Since I set it to the smallest setting my mash efficiency also shot past 85%.
You brew really early. I can't get up that early.
I love myself a digital refractometer and use it all throughout the mashing process. I am actually more likely to use it during mash than the boil.
If you have all that pilsner, have you tried to make a traditional Czech premium pils? I was thinking about doing that after I get my glycol :-). That includes the triple decoction.
I did make an attempted schwarzbier, and it was rather good and done under pressure. But I have to say that I don't want to call these pseudolagers anymore - they aren't lagers in any way regardless of whether or not you use lager yeast. I find they are so much cleaner than lagers in fact. We need a name for them that is more descriptive - it really has no yeast flavour whatsoever.
Hi great Video, but why are u force carbonating ur wort? When u add CO2 to uncarbonated wort, the CO2 will dissolve into the wort and the pressure will drop. No failing valves or leaks needed...
What I've read suggests pressurizing your vessel before fermentation starts when trying to make a lager at ale temps
@@FloraBrewing Right! But if u just pressurize ur headspace a decent amount of CO2 will dissolve into ur Wort(so pressure will drop). I would start with 20 PSI (and it drops down to about 15PSI) and when blow off starts I would reduce to 15PSI, cause the Beer then is saturated if this makes sense to u.
have you tried the 10 and 15 psi popet valves from kegking ?
You dont need a sunding valve with it.
Always use the spunding valve in case the release valves get blocked.
Here we cho again. The voss kveik im buying in Australia( from Llameond) has a STRONG flavour, it completely RUINED the (pseudo) larger and soured it.
Can I borrow some malt? XD
gone are the days of blown fuses while milling 🍻🤘🍻
kveik nao é neutra, voss da um sabor puxado pro vinho e com acidez hahaha
🍻🇳🇴👍
*Pseudo (not Psuedo, like in the thumbnail)
ARGH everytime!
@@FloraBrewing Sorry :-s :-s :-s
@@FloraBrewing Damn, tough crowd, eh Sara? ;-)