How to Replace Front Upper Control Arm - 1998-2003 Acura TL/CL - Honda Accord

Поделиться
HTML-код

Комментарии • 24

  • @Watts378
    @Watts378 2 месяца назад +1

    Love your content man!
    I have an 03 TL-S near showroom condition. I had the entire car resprayed Nighthawk black and had it ceramic coated. Also added the A-spec kit and adjustable coilovers - that's it. Completely retained the factory look other than it sitting lower. No a dent nor a scratch on her. Had it for 14 years now and it only see's a few weeks per year on the road when the weather is nice, garage kept otherwise. I like to do most of the maintenance myself so I have always appreciated your channel. Thanks man!!

    • @CarRepairsMadeSimple
      @CarRepairsMadeSimple  2 месяца назад

      @@Watts378 thank you! That’s awesome you’re able to keep your car in mint condition, I’m super jealous! My car has held up reasonably well to the rust belt over 350,000 miles, but it has seen better days. The new fender, bumper, and refinished headlights definitely makes my front end look super fresh though. Keep up the great work and thanks for watching :)

  • @thinkfaster6451
    @thinkfaster6451 4 месяца назад +1

    Thanks for posting this video.Sorry to hear about the Type S “mishap” as long as nobody was hurt, cars can be repaired.. Your videos are clear and straightforward and extremely helpful. I actually just completed my transmission oil and filter Thanks to you! The new vehicle HAS to be another Acura.. based on how well this one has been for you.. waiting to see what it actually is. Drive safe..

    • @CarRepairsMadeSimple
      @CarRepairsMadeSimple  3 месяца назад +1

      Thank you for the kinds words! That's awesome to hear, glad my video was able to assist you! That seems like a pretty good guess ;) we'll find out soon. I'll be uploading my first of many videos on it later this month!

  • @tylegend8177
    @tylegend8177 4 месяца назад

    You should post a POV drive in your Acura TL Type S by the way i also have a 2002 TL-S and watching your videos gave me hope in repairing my car

    • @CarRepairsMadeSimple
      @CarRepairsMadeSimple  4 месяца назад +2

      That would be a cool idea! I was thinking of doing some sort of overall tour of my car, while talking about my journey making it to such a high mileage and sharing all my knowledge of this vehicle. I have a lot of videos coming out this summer, but I'll get to it someday! Thank for watching and good luck with your awesome TL-S!

  • @jordanriver722
    @jordanriver722 4 месяца назад +1

    Excellent!

  • @xortiz7077
    @xortiz7077 3 месяца назад

    Is it the same method for the lower arms

    • @CarRepairsMadeSimple
      @CarRepairsMadeSimple  3 месяца назад

      It's a very similar process, except you don't need to remove the strut assembly. Only the damper fork needs to be removed. Thanks for watching!

    • @xortiz7077
      @xortiz7077 3 месяца назад +1

      Does the lower arms or the rear control arms have cotter pins?

    • @CarRepairsMadeSimple
      @CarRepairsMadeSimple  3 месяца назад

      @@xortiz7077 from what I can tell as far as my car goes, the front lower control arm has a cotter pin, but the rear control arms do not.

  • @850CANE
    @850CANE 3 месяца назад

    Hey brother I had a question regarding the transmission shift solenoids. Open them up and I tested them and they were clear of any debris but the ohm testing what does that mean exactly if it's out of specs? I do a drain and fill religiously and change the spin on filter like I'm supposed to. But just recently the last couple days going into fourth gear I'm getting a really hard shift from time to time it's only happened about three times in 3 days but still it's scaring me so I don't know what to do I'm going to do a drain and fill tomorrow because it's that time. But I just changed the spin on filter at the last drain and fill interval. Any info would be greatly appreciated brother cuz I'm about to have a heart attack over here I don't have the money to do AV6 swap nor the means to do it. Thank you as always brother!

    • @CarRepairsMadeSimple
      @CarRepairsMadeSimple  3 месяца назад

      In simple terms, if the ohm reading is out of spec, the solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced, either due to an open circuit or a short in the circuit. I doubt your fluid is the problem based on how much you appear to be taking care of it, assuming you're using DW-1. I would recommend replacing the 4th gear transmission clutch oil pressure switch if you haven't already. You can't test the resistance of these, so in a way it's a shot in the dark, however, they are known to go bad and have improved many peoples shifting. I made a video on that as well: ruclips.net/video/_I8zfFmVZZI/видео.htmlsi=K0kd0lw_bne17y8u

    • @850CANE
      @850CANE 3 месяца назад

      @@CarRepairsMadeSimple yeah I changed the third and fourth gear pressure switches less than a year ago. It might just be about that time brother to get ready to do the av6 swap. It's going to cost about $4,000 to get it and have it installed but that's cheaper than buying another car ain't it bro? Have an awesome day Thank you for responding as always

    • @CarRepairsMadeSimple
      @CarRepairsMadeSimple  3 месяца назад

      @@850CANE it's possible it's going out. You could also do an ohm test on Shift solenoid valve C (12-25 ohms) in the front of the transmission, and the Dual linear solenoid (about 5 ohms) on top.
      Perhaps your resolution could be a slight change in your driving habits. I can tell you I've been driving with an intermittent 3rd gear slip, as well as slow, hard, flared shifting in most gears for about 100-150k miles now. One thing that has really helped overcome this issue is using the manual sport shifter, and whenever I go to shift up, I ease off the gas in a similar sense to driving a manual car. It still shifts slow, and there's still an occasional 3rd gear missed shift, but it makes the shifts significantly smoother.
      If the rest of the car is in good enough condition, and if you love this car enough, it could be worth it. Idk about you, but around me, I can find nice Acuras from 2004-2012 under 200k miles for $3000-6000. You can get I can tell you on my car, a lot of stuff needed replacing around 300-325k miles, including rear brake lines, fuel lines, shock absorbers, and the fuel tank, all of which are very big and expensive jobs. Not trying to scare you, maybe your car is in better condition than mine. I live in the rust belt and these sort of things are inevitable. Best of luck to you!

    • @850CANE
      @850CANE 3 месяца назад +1

      @@CarRepairsMadeSimple oh wow you make me feel a lot better. Mine only flares 3-4 when I first start driving it when it's cold. Usually only one time. So last weekend I I went to the junkyard and I pulled both solenoids off of an 03 TL. I didn't know which one controlled third to fourth gear so I put both of them off of the donor car. I did a ohm test on both and they were both 5 ohms so I'll pull it off and check it again. After the drain and fill and solenoid change it didn't flare at all after much driving and testing. I thought I had it cured with the solenoid switch. I live in South Florida so not a whole lot of rust going on. I was contemplating if it started getting worse to use only the sport shift. Thank you for the encouragement I was starting to get worried since I definitely don't have the money right now for any major repairs. I commute 55 miles to and from work on the interstate and in the afternoon it's stop and go with a ton of shifting unfortunately. I have 235k on my car. Hopefully with some altered driving as you suggested it'll keep going until I have the $ to either av6 swap or find something else. I love this car though. Thanks again bro!

    • @850CANE
      @850CANE 3 месяца назад

      So you drive only with the sport stick now?