Thank you so much for this video! Very well done. Especially appreciate your pointing out that an OEM hose is the way to go. Huge help!!! Thank you!!!!
Have you had any problem with carbon build up on these cars? I see you haven't done a video on it yet. I heard that it is common issue with these engines. I was thinking of using seafoam spray into the throttle body or just taking it apart and cleaning with carb spray.
@@fata3176 I have not, gas mileage, idling, and power all seem to be fine and consistent over the years! My car also has no issues with burning oil. I do oil changes every 5000 miles using Mobil 1 5w-20 extended performance full synthetic oil and a FRAM Ultra oil filter. Mixing a bottle of seafoam in the tank can’t hurt anything!
First of all, I wanted to say thank you so much for posting this video as it really helped me a great deal on replacing the power steering hose on my 02 Accord V6. This job was quite an ordeal!! Fortunately, I got it done in 3 days. I do want to point out that the flare nut wrench paired up with a backup wrench didn't work for me (almost rounded the flare nut), and I had to hacksaw the hardline + 14mm deep socket like others suggested. Also, I bought a aftermarket hose from Rockauto which has different bending angle as compared to the OEM one. Resulted with brackets not lining up with their respective bolt hole in the subframe. Lesson learned, some parts are better off with OEMs.
I’m glad the video was helpful! Yah this is not a job I want to do again haha It’s not very often I recommend aftermarket parts, but sounds like everything ended up working out! Hopefully it lasts a long time!
Love this video, I kinda needed it. I had a rack & pinion job done back in 2013 and ever since then my PS kept whining whenever I turn only even without any leaks.. I recently did some O ring changes which fixed nothing and Orings indeed looked ok.. and I found out the issue I have appears to be caused by that aftermarket high pressure PS line that the shop installed.. There's no leak still but I might eventually re-visit this video whenever it's due.. Thanks for your awesome contents :)
Thanks for watching! Yeah aftermarket can be tempting, but when the OEM part lasts as long as this, and especially on a job as annoying as this, I highly recommend spending the extra money for the better part!
Since the leak typically occurs at the top by the engine, Honda/Acura should've designed this with some junction point with clamp where the flexible hose transitions to the rigid portion. I had to do this same exact job for my 06 Accord and was quite difficult trying to the connect back to the power steering rack.
I haven't done this yet (am waiting for the aftermarket part from amzn) but the locations and hose look very very much like my 2000 accord 3.0 v6 coupe setup. I actually cracked the flare nut loose already so hopefully that will save me a lot of time. If I may ask a question, with 300K miles and 20 years why didn't you replace the sensor as well? Thanks for your video!
I suppose because it wasn’t giving me any problems and I didn’t want to spend the extra $40+ if I didn’t need to. If it does need replacing in the future, it’s not terribly difficult to get to. Thanks for watching and I hope everything goes well replacing this PS line!
An easier way to crack that 14 mm flare nut on the steering gear is to remove the driver's wheel and access the nut through the opening in the fender wheel. Use a long extension bar and a "crows foot" wrench. Easier but still not easy
Unfortunately it’s just a really difficult part of the job and takes a lot of finagling with the line until it goes in. You might need to bend the line ever so slightly. It needs to be perfectly perpendicular for it to thread in. Careful not to cross thread! Once it does finally get going, it should be easy to thread it in the rest of the way.
I like your tips and tricks with using two wrenches to create a breaker bar! Unfortunately I am currently stuck, I bought an aftermarket line and I can’t screw the bolt back in. Do you have any advice for me? Thank you so much.
Screwing those tube nuts back in is definitely the most challenging part. The same goes for the brake and fuel lines which use the same style of nut. There's probably nothing wrong with your aftermarket part. It just needs to be at a perfect 90° angle to get those threads started and is very tedious. Try wiggling the line as you're tightening the nut, maybe consider bending the line slightly if it's not lining up properly. Just be patient and make sure you can start the nut by hand so you don't cross the threads. Good luck!
@@CesarinPillinGaming yah it’s a common occurrence between 200k-300k unfortunately. Just got a 2008 MDX myself and can see it also has a very slow leak as well. Hope all goes well replacing it!
@@CesarinPillinGaming oh dang, I never had it smoking before. At least it sounds like it was easy to diagnose haha Yah definitely don’t wanna breath that in
Question? I have a 2002 Acura TL Type S same as yours. On fixing that leak in the PS line why couldn’t you just cut it pass the leak with a hard plastic tub and clamp each end if the rest of the line is OK.
because with this car being 20 years old with 333k miles, odds are the rest of the PS line is becoming deteriorated and it would be a better investment to get an all new line installed. But, that's not to say repairing it isn't an option. This is simply a video on how to replace it. Thanks for watching!
I have an 01 and it’s a lil different than yours both ends of the line are held on by two bolts, unlike yours, which is one at the end of the line ( considering the top-of-the-line being what’s actually connected to the power steering pump)
I recently had to do this job. FYI - the parts for the Acura CL Thpe-S and TL Type-S are NOT interchangeable. The TL has a square end with two holes, the CL has no square end. I learned that when I took the old one off and realised the old didn’t match the new part.
@@Canakar360 yup, that’s why I show people how to find their parts by entering their vehicle into the Acura website. A lot of parts are not interchangeable with other vehicles. Thank for watching!
Oh wow lol nice! This was one of those jobs where you just stare at the car and think how the flip am I supposed to do this? haha good job tackling this repair!
@@d.n.3652 if you put your VIN in when placing an order they’re usually pretty good about ensuring you bought the correct part. They’re also good about returns if they accidentally sent the wrong part.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimpleI bought it off Amazon. But I never confirmed if the pieces fit. I just assumed that the base model would fit the type s model. Because literally 95% of the parts are the same
@ ohh I see, yah the base and type-s have different parts here unfortunately. Accidents happen though, nbd! Hopefully the amazon exchange process goes smoothly :)
If neither of the methods shown at 7:30 worked for you, or any other form of cheater pipe, you could try buying a flex head 6-point flare nut crowfoot socket. Unfortunately, a standard crowfoot attachment is too small and won't work due to the ratchet head protruding into the wrench opening. Try something like this: amzn.to/3HPhIzy or for the full set: shopdynamictools.com/products/3-8-drive-10-piece-metric-flare-nut-socket-set-10mm-19mm
Hey brother. I just had my rack replaced by a shop. Still leaking fluid. They told me its the connection and the high pressure line needs replacing. My question is what was the other line on top that you didn't replace? The return line? The shops telling ne to get them both replaced but theyre also trying to get my $.
@@850CANE are you referring to the other line that you can see at 7:00 and partially at 9:30? That line would be a return pipe, reference number 5 in the parts diagram at 1:41. Unfortunately, that’s a discontinued part, so you’ll have to find an aftermarket one. And if again this isn’t the part you’re referring to, can you give me a time stamp in the video where it might have been shown?
Thank you so much for this video! Very well done. Especially appreciate your pointing out that an OEM hose is the way to go. Huge help!!! Thank you!!!!
@@ellewonderdog7173 I’m glad my video was helpful! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching :)
Just picked up 03 tl type s and I enjoy watching your videos.
Keep it up 👍👍
Thanks again!!
Have you had any problem with carbon build up on these cars?
I see you haven't done a video on it yet. I heard that it is common issue with these engines. I was thinking of using seafoam spray into the throttle body or just taking it apart and cleaning with carb spray.
@@fata3176 I have not, gas mileage, idling, and power all seem to be fine and consistent over the years! My car also has no issues with burning oil. I do oil changes every 5000 miles using Mobil 1 5w-20 extended performance full synthetic oil and a FRAM Ultra oil filter. Mixing a bottle of seafoam in the tank can’t hurt anything!
First of all, I wanted to say thank you so much for posting this video as it really helped me a great deal on replacing the power steering hose on my 02 Accord V6. This job was quite an ordeal!! Fortunately, I got it done in 3 days. I do want to point out that the flare nut wrench paired up with a backup wrench didn't work for me (almost rounded the flare nut), and I had to hacksaw the hardline + 14mm deep socket like others suggested. Also, I bought a aftermarket hose from Rockauto which has different bending angle as compared to the OEM one. Resulted with brackets not lining up with their respective bolt hole in the subframe. Lesson learned, some parts are better off with OEMs.
I’m glad the video was helpful! Yah this is not a job I want to do again haha It’s not very often I recommend aftermarket parts, but sounds like everything ended up working out! Hopefully it lasts a long time!
Love this video, I kinda needed it. I had a rack & pinion job done back in 2013 and ever since then my PS kept whining whenever I turn only even without any leaks.. I recently did some O ring changes which fixed nothing and Orings indeed looked ok.. and I found out the issue I have appears to be caused by that aftermarket high pressure PS line that the shop installed.. There's no leak still but I might eventually re-visit this video whenever it's due.. Thanks for your awesome contents :)
Thanks for watching! Yeah aftermarket can be tempting, but when the OEM part lasts as long as this, and especially on a job as annoying as this, I highly recommend spending the extra money for the better part!
Since the leak typically occurs at the top by the engine, Honda/Acura should've designed this with some junction point with clamp where the flexible hose transitions to the rigid portion. I had to do this same exact job for my 06 Accord and was quite difficult trying to the connect back to the power steering rack.
Yah I agree, this job certainly was not fun! At least they last a good 15+ years. Hopefully I never have to do this again
My 01 is leaking from the top where the sliding rubber is located. It leaks on the back of the engine causing smoke 🚬
Having that problem now going into rack omgg aggravating
Hola me encantan tus videos tengo un acura 99 y me as ayudado en muchas cosas saludos
¡Me alegro de que mis videos hayan sido útiles! ¡Gracias por ver!
String idea was brilliant
@@Explixit it’s quite the maze maneuvering this part in and out. Glad you found my video helpful!
I haven't done this yet (am waiting for the aftermarket part from amzn) but the locations and hose look very very much like my 2000 accord 3.0 v6 coupe setup. I actually cracked the flare nut loose already so hopefully that will save me a lot of time. If I may ask a question, with 300K miles and 20 years why didn't you replace the sensor as well? Thanks for your video!
I suppose because it wasn’t giving me any problems and I didn’t want to spend the extra $40+ if I didn’t need to. If it does need replacing in the future, it’s not terribly difficult to get to. Thanks for watching and I hope everything goes well replacing this PS line!
An easier way to crack that 14 mm flare nut on the steering gear is to remove the driver's wheel and access the nut through the opening in the fender wheel. Use a long extension bar and a "crows foot" wrench. Easier but still not easy
Thanks for the tip! It certainly was a difficult part of the job.
Having issue with screwing in the line into the rack and pinion any pointers?
Unfortunately it’s just a really difficult part of the job and takes a lot of finagling with the line until it goes in. You might need to bend the line ever so slightly. It needs to be perfectly perpendicular for it to thread in. Careful not to cross thread! Once it does finally get going, it should be easy to thread it in the rest of the way.
I like your tips and tricks with using two wrenches to create a breaker bar!
Unfortunately I am currently stuck, I bought an aftermarket line and I can’t screw the bolt back in. Do you have any advice for me? Thank you so much.
Screwing those tube nuts back in is definitely the most challenging part. The same goes for the brake and fuel lines which use the same style of nut. There's probably nothing wrong with your aftermarket part. It just needs to be at a perfect 90° angle to get those threads started and is very tedious. Try wiggling the line as you're tightening the nut, maybe consider bending the line slightly if it's not lining up properly. Just be patient and make sure you can start the nut by hand so you don't cross the threads. Good luck!
Ok my Acura cl type s loosens when I give it gas but tighten when breaking. What should I replace to fix it
@@Igkboyz it sounds like either you’re low on ps fluid or you have a bad ps pump
@ replacing o rings won’t change anything or hoses
Just started to get that leak on my Acura TSX 2004.
@@CesarinPillinGaming yah it’s a common occurrence between 200k-300k unfortunately. Just got a 2008 MDX myself and can see it also has a very slow leak as well. Hope all goes well replacing it!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I'm almost 300k. Makes sense.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I think the worst part is thatin my case, it leaks on top of the engine, and when its hot.. it makes white smoke.
@@CesarinPillinGaming oh dang, I never had it smoking before. At least it sounds like it was easy to diagnose haha Yah definitely don’t wanna breath that in
Do you know what the size of the rubber portion of the hose is. Thinking about if splicing in a hydraulic hose would work.
The outer diameter of the rubber hose is 3/4”. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Do you still have the TL?
Question? I have a 2002 Acura TL Type S same as yours. On fixing that leak in the PS line why couldn’t you just cut it pass the leak with a hard plastic tub and clamp each end if the rest of the line is OK.
because with this car being 20 years old with 333k miles, odds are the rest of the PS line is becoming deteriorated and it would be a better investment to get an all new line installed. But, that's not to say repairing it isn't an option. This is simply a video on how to replace it. Thanks for watching!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Do you still have your TL
@@JG2HTT sure do! Still my daily and it’s running great!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple o
I have an 01 and it’s a lil different than yours both ends of the line are held on by two bolts, unlike yours, which is one at the end of the line ( considering the top-of-the-line being what’s actually connected to the power steering pump)
I recently had to do this job. FYI - the parts for the Acura CL Thpe-S and TL Type-S are NOT interchangeable. The TL has a square end with two holes, the CL has no square end. I learned that when I took the old one off and realised the old didn’t match the new part.
@@Canakar360 yup, that’s why I show people how to find their parts by entering their vehicle into the Acura website. A lot of parts are not interchangeable with other vehicles. Thank for watching!
I got mine out from under the car. I don't know how but I did 😂
Oh wow lol nice! This was one of those jobs where you just stare at the car and think how the flip am I supposed to do this? haha good job tackling this repair!
I think I bought the one for the base model. The one I have has 2 screws on the small end. I hope I didn’t buy the wrong one
@@d.n.3652 if you put your VIN in when placing an order they’re usually pretty good about ensuring you bought the correct part. They’re also good about returns if they accidentally sent the wrong part.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimpleI bought it off Amazon. But I never confirmed if the pieces fit. I just assumed that the base model would fit the type s model. Because literally 95% of the parts are the same
@ ohh I see, yah the base and type-s have different parts here unfortunately. Accidents happen though, nbd! Hopefully the amazon exchange process goes smoothly :)
Is this the same process for a 2002 Honda Accord v6???
Yes!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple koo thanks
@@KeepzKustomz you’re welcome! Hope everything goes smoothly!
Hope so, cause I really ain't trying to pay someone $250 on top of what I pay for those hose
@@KeepzKustomz did you get the job done?
Yeah, I think I’m just gonna put some flexseal on it👍🏻
Idk if flexseal will stop a leak from a 1400psi ps line, but it’s worth a shot!
Nah I tried using rescue tape on the top clamp where it was leaking, it does nothing once the car starts moving. Like he said it's like 1,500psi
Ugh cars... lol the makers get some kinda sick satisfaction making it so complex and complicated to remove and install...
yeah they definitely don't always put much thought into fixing the cars. The brake lines were probably the hardest thing I've replaced on this car
Exactly where it's leaking in my 2001 Honda Accord EX V6
Yup, very common spot for this leak. Hope you’re able to get it fixed with ease!
Im stock with the end of the line i cant get it to turn
If neither of the methods shown at 7:30 worked for you, or any other form of cheater pipe, you could try buying a flex head 6-point flare nut crowfoot socket. Unfortunately, a standard crowfoot attachment is too small and won't work due to the ratchet head protruding into the wrench opening. Try something like this: amzn.to/3HPhIzy
or for the full set:
shopdynamictools.com/products/3-8-drive-10-piece-metric-flare-nut-socket-set-10mm-19mm
Hey brother. I just had my rack replaced by a shop. Still leaking fluid. They told me its the connection and the high pressure line needs replacing. My question is what was the other line on top that you didn't replace? The return line? The shops telling ne to get them both replaced but theyre also trying to get my $.
The other thick line on top with the light green cap is the A/C suction hose. Has nothing to do with the PS
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple no sorry. I meant the other end, rack end connections. I think it's the return line. You didn't replace it in the video
@@850CANE are you referring to the other line that you can see at 7:00 and partially at 9:30? That line would be a return pipe, reference number 5 in the parts diagram at 1:41. Unfortunately, that’s a discontinued part, so you’ll have to find an aftermarket one. And if again this isn’t the part you’re referring to, can you give me a time stamp in the video where it might have been shown?