What you've demonstrated here is SO very important for today's ham radio operators. Domestic radio interference from neighborhood electronics is a major destroyer of the radio hobby. A few years ago I lived in a city rental and the broadband QRM from the neighbor's electronics was terrible; well over S9 noise!. By properly adjusting my ANC4, QRM 'eliminator' I was able to be on the air and to maintain my regular skeds. Without it, I would have been off the air. Thank You!
If you're running one of these units or similar (I use the TimeWave ANC4+) with an amp, the noise canceller is installed between the amp and the radio, not at the output of the amp. Unless the un-amplified transmit exceeds 100W, there is no issue with this configuration. Most radios driving an amp are far far below 100W, making this configuration safe. Remember, the noise canceller is bypassed in transmit and the amp is passed in receive. That means that with the noise canceller between the transceiver and the amp, it is effectively connected directly to the antenna when in receive mode when the noise canceller is installed between the transmitter and the amp. Installing the sense antenna where there is a large phase differential between the sense antenna and the transceiver antenna helps get the most out of these devices.
Thank you - great demo. Make sure the noise/auxiliary antenna is not a zig-zack or in an angle, because then you may get noise signals from the same source with a different phase from each leg that will overlay each other. The outcome is that your phase null is not as deep as that of an antenna with a very defined phase angle towards the main noise source. I built this one too (also available as a kit), but haven't tried it yet, also have an ANC-4 by JPS, which does a good job. But the best thing against local noise is a magnetic loop that is highly symmetric and if you can put this on a rotor or have two 90° towards each other and a phase shifter you will have the best noise immunity ever, because most common noise sources are in the near field on the electrical domain and only create the magnetic component in the far field. Therefore a magnetic antenna will always drastically outperform an electric antenna in a noisy environment, which today is almost every environment unless it is far away from houses. I live in a multi family house and until a few years ago I gave up on my radio passion, receiving HF because of the intense noise. Just before giving it up, I bought a magnetic antenna kit from LZ1AQ and built two 1.5m diameter loops from thick copper wires and can now switch between them A or B or A+B and the results are outstanding ... a signal to noise of sometimes over 90dB! requires more than 12 bit resolution SDR, but the signals clarity and quietness seems even better than how I remember HF reception in the 80's and 90's with plenty of sun spots and huge outdoor antennas. Today with these two loops in the attic I receive signals around the world almost 24/7 on FT8 ... I am in Munich, Germany and now as I write (22UTC) I see DX signals on 17m band from Alaska via the West Coast, Brazil, Argentina, Thailand, China and Japan ... though currently no signals from VK, ZL, Hawaii 😞 ... PY, VU and ZS comes in on 40m ... anyway it is pretty amazing for an indoor antenna. I do not have any affiliation with the manufacturer I mentioned, I guess a Wellbrook or something similar may also get the same great results, though it is far more expensive ... just make sure the h-field antenna is pretty immune to the local e-field, then you will be fine. Good luck and enjoy the shortwave bands, which seem almost magical again with the recent sun spots!
You wrote: "Make sure the noise/auxiliary antenna is not a zig-zack or in an angle, because then you may get noise signals from the same source with a different phase from each leg that will overlay each other." Not entirely sure what you mean. I am a bit thrown by the use of the word "overlay" which I have not seen in reference to antennas. Also, as regards to a single antenna "very defined phase angle" confounds me. Phase angle exists only with respect to something. A phase of a single antenna without reference to something makes no sense to me. At any rate I think you mean the noise signal on such an antenna could cancel out at the feed point. That is practically impossible except for an antenna carefully designed for that purpose. If it happened, you have a wonderfully directional antenna. You would not need a noise canceller, just use the noise antenna for receiving! As to loops discriminating against nearby noise, they are often but certainly not always effective. E.g., depending on the noise source and the wiring connected to it, there can be large magnetic coupling of the noise to the loop. The frequency involved has a lot to do with it as well. Listen to the AM BCB on a loop near a switching power supply. If you can null the noise with the loop orientation, then it is the directivity of the loop, not its magnetic nature, which allows you to null.
I heard the good advice - sampling antenna should be in other polarisation that gives -40dB difference in the far field, but near field should be about the same, that makes phasing out QRM more accurate.
Mine is between the radio and my Acom amp, works great. The box can also be used to add an RX antenna to a radio that doesn’t support it, you just phase in antenna two rather than out. That’s what I use it for the most these days. These things do take a lot of playing with to understand, but they do work, just don’t expect to go from s9 of qrm to nothing :) 73
I am merging two magnetic loops by the device- antenna 2 on gain1 - weaker loop on gain2 - max out reception by adjusting the phase of the overlay to get max audability - this averages out QRMS far better than the subtraction method@@petebown
I have the MFJ 1026 and it works great, even with it's telescopic whip antenna. I get wicked AM radio station overload from a radio station about 1/4 mile away and this thing takes it right out! I have a video on my meager channel showing it at work.
Just watched your demo on your channel: wow. That is a HUGE difference. But for a newby like me, I have no clue how to adjust your qrm eliminater. Which is obviously quality and cost some ...
I use mine on my shortwave receiver and SDR, and they do work quite well, BUT they only work on a single noise source, if you have multiple noise sources it's not going to do much when you have multiple noise sources with an omnidirectional antenna as the main. Now if you pair the QRM Eliminator up with a loop antenna as the main antenna you can handle multiple noise sources, as you can use the loop to null out one source, and use the QRM to null out the other, of you have more than two you're just going to have to choose the greater more annoying noise source out of all to null out. They can be really finicky to get working, you have to try multiple antennas for the noise/Aux antenna (it's not going to be the same for everyone and everyone's noise source is going to be different), and where you have to place the noise/Aux antenna is also going to be different, and how you place it (vertically or horizontally) is going to be different. Most people's failure with these is that their noise/Aux antenna isn't correct (as in the type of antenna, the area you place said antenna, and how you place it (vertical, or horizontal), as each noise source is going to be different to everyone, there will be no 100% solution for everyone, like you said, if the noise antenna picks up the broadcast you're trying to listen to, the QRM Eliminator is going to partially null it out and you'll still hear the noise. And then there the whole knob fiddling, which also takes time to get right.
Here's the results of mine on my shortwave receiver ruclips.net/video/yBgBMNqPIY4/видео.html (Note), I wasn't really listening to the broadcast when I made that video, I just tuned around to find a station that had the most QRM to show someone that they do indeed work.
Thanks. Bought something similar a year or two ago, but haven't used it yet. Main interest ATM is MW DX and the problem with most QRME designs is their low frequency limit.
Neighbours fish tank, s6 noise until I saw it dumped in back garden! . Now new neighbour after house renovation and LEDs installed, s9 at set intervels right through the bands about every 15khz. My Qrm eliminator no more as 100watts put through it even though I had the wire from Alinco DX 70 connectedto activate the qrm eliminator bypass switch, but later I read a resistor needs cutting inside the radio to activate it, ohhh well!
Since QRM is usually broadband and based on mains frequency (50 or 60Hz) then it should be possible to extract this on (web) SDR radios by looking for a repetative waveform across the whole SDR passband, averaging the 50/60Hz waveform over a few 100 cycles and then nulling it out. No need for another antenna then. Although another antenna is probably better if there is one to use.
Well, the hertz of the Mains voltage can actually change pitch, modulation or even frequency depending on the time and day. An interesting video i saw the other day, Apparently forensics experts keep a data recording of Mains hum noise and put timestamps. The reason for that is if lets say the case they're working on has a Video or Audio they can go from, and if there is no Exif data provided in the file. They can compare the Evidence's Hum noise and their database of Hum audios and they can point out when at what time the crime is comitted.
They do work with patience.The other way is to use a remote receiver if you are listening to one specific frequency, such as hack green or others on your phone or computer.
I have one of these. I have it between my G90 and XPA125B it does help with some of the local noise but I imagine it will do much better if I spend some time making a better noise antenna.
How about more videos on the operation of Aillunce HS2 with Digital modes. And yes how to turn on the trnsmit function of the HS2, as it comes factory seting is only set for receiving
Regarding the 100 watt limit - if you have a radio that does more, they often have a receive only antenna in - so you could use that. The other option is to place this before the amplifier and tuner, right? Not many radios need to excite an amplifier with more than 50 watts I think, correct?
Congratulations on the video. Your device has 2 gain and one phase knobs. Others have 2 phase knobs and a gain knob. Can you tell what the difference is? Thanks
Excellent demonstration, I think 95% of ameteur radio operators are suffering some sort of QRM. I have a issue with QRM that destroys 80m , I'm surprised they don't teach how to deal with it in the exams . Tony M0VDO
Lots of differences and nuances when it come to QRN and overcoming it. Hard to know what could be on the exam which would be of much benefit unless there were dozens of questions on the subject. If one has man-made QRN, then one can find several good papers and books on the subject.
I see not CAT so I'm assuming with that fat RCA marked PTT it needs to have a piggie back to the mic? I'm real curios to the point I have been thinking almost non stop. I have a click and I think its the neighbors. Only gets me around low 7MHz and mid 3MHz. Tends to be more dominate on 40m. I musta looked a fool but I was walking around my back yard with toner probe and head phones trying to find the damn clicking. I run an EFLW at 88' back to a 9:1 balun. Feed point has a 1:1. Long wires carry a sizzle anyway but this is a loud CLICK. Last year I spent 3 days of the only vacation I had in ten years re bonding and grounding everything in the shack. I spent a day unplugging everything in the house starting with the wall warts..It was almost quiet.. little snow in the far background. Then Click click.. click click.. click click click.. Blows my mind - Happy DX everyone 73
Had 2 of them, different brands. Spend hours of hours to get it to work efficiently exspecialy if you have different sources of qrm beside each other. At each qsy retuning is required. My verdict waste of time. Fix qrm on source and not on rx side !
Years ago I suddenly started getting bad QRM on 20 meter. I eventually figured out it was coming from a PS/2 keyboard of all things. Replaced the keyboard and the problem was gone.
Después de estar ausente por unos cuántos años de las bandas de HF al volver me fué imposible escuchar nada,en 80 mts el ruido s9+ ;en 40 mts siempre un s9 a toda hora,la única manera de hacer algún contacto es usando recepción de algún SDR de Argentina,está muriendo la radioaficción emoezás un contacto y no lo podés terminar por el ruido que entra!!
Built one tried it with various noise receiving wire antennas and was disappointed with its performance. I'm sure it does work with some qrm but in my case it didn't. What did work for me was a noise cancelling loop antenna for receive and my fan dipole for tx.
Hello, I have this device, unfortunately without instructions. Am CB radio operator. Can you please tell me what I have to connect where and how I set up the device. Best of all, step by step. I thank you in advance. With kind regards  Hello, I have this device, unfortunately without instructions. Am CB radio operator. Can you please tell me what I have to connect where and how I set up the device. Best of all, step by step. I thank you in advance. With kind regards
These work if you have a single item creating the noise., a psu or similar. If you have a general high noise floor they do nothing. Paid my money and tried them. Didn't help
If you pair it with a loop antenna you can handle multiple noise sources. The QRM Eliminators are finicky to set up, as each person's QRM is not the same so each will have to have a different setup. The noise/Aux antenna is the hardest part to get right, the type of antenna, where you have to place it, and how you have to place it (aka horizontal, or vertical), that's many people failure point on why it's doesn't work, the other is they're dealing with multiple noise sources. For me in some areas the included telescopic antenna will work for the noise/aux antenna, and in other areas it doesn't work and I have to use a different antenna for the noise/Aux antenna (I used my YouLoop antenna for the noise/Aux in this case, some people have to run a long wire for the noise/Aux antenna).
@@madmax2069 tried with long wire and rx loop. I rigged up a psu that I knew was noisy, tuned into that and it removed it completely. The high noise floor was untouched. I don't see how you can remove high noise floor when it is created my many many different sources all at different phases. Sold it all on
My QRM is really bad here and has driven me away from using my radio once again. I can only use indoor antennas due to my location and for the hf bands I do have a chameleon f loop 2.0 that works from 60m to 10m in conjunction with a IC705 but the qrm from neighbours and some internal devices has drove me mad. It might be worth a try with this as the devices I have seen before were a lot more expensive. 73 - G0LQP
What you've demonstrated here is SO very important for today's ham radio operators. Domestic radio interference from neighborhood electronics is a major destroyer of the radio hobby.
A few years ago I lived in a city rental and the broadband QRM from the neighbor's electronics was terrible; well over S9 noise!. By properly adjusting my ANC4, QRM 'eliminator' I was able to be on the air and to maintain my regular skeds. Without it, I would have been off the air.
Thank You!
If you're running one of these units or similar (I use the TimeWave ANC4+) with an amp, the noise canceller is installed between the amp and the radio, not at the output of the amp. Unless the un-amplified transmit exceeds 100W, there is no issue with this configuration. Most radios driving an amp are far far below 100W, making this configuration safe. Remember, the noise canceller is bypassed in transmit and the amp is passed in receive. That means that with the noise canceller between the transceiver and the amp, it is effectively connected directly to the antenna when in receive mode when the noise canceller is installed between the transmitter and the amp.
Installing the sense antenna where there is a large phase differential between the sense antenna and the transceiver antenna helps get the most out of these devices.
Thank you - great demo.
Make sure the noise/auxiliary antenna is not a zig-zack or in an angle, because then you may get noise signals from the same source with a different phase from each leg that will overlay each other. The outcome is that your phase null is not as deep as that of an antenna with a very defined phase angle towards the main noise source.
I built this one too (also available as a kit), but haven't tried it yet, also have an ANC-4 by JPS, which does a good job.
But the best thing against local noise is a magnetic loop that is highly symmetric and if you can put this on a rotor or have two 90° towards each other and a phase shifter you will have the best noise immunity ever, because most common noise sources are in the near field on the electrical domain and only create the magnetic component in the far field. Therefore a magnetic antenna will always drastically outperform an electric antenna in a noisy environment, which today is almost every environment unless it is far away from houses.
I live in a multi family house and until a few years ago I gave up on my radio passion, receiving HF because of the intense noise. Just before giving it up, I bought a magnetic antenna kit from LZ1AQ and built two 1.5m diameter loops from thick copper wires and can now switch between them A or B or A+B and the results are outstanding ... a signal to noise of sometimes over 90dB! requires more than 12 bit resolution SDR, but the signals clarity and quietness seems even better than how I remember HF reception in the 80's and 90's with plenty of sun spots and huge outdoor antennas.
Today with these two loops in the attic I receive signals around the world almost 24/7 on FT8 ... I am in Munich, Germany and now as I write (22UTC) I see DX signals on 17m band from Alaska via the West Coast, Brazil, Argentina, Thailand, China and Japan ... though currently no signals from VK, ZL, Hawaii 😞 ... PY, VU and ZS comes in on 40m ... anyway it is pretty amazing for an indoor antenna.
I do not have any affiliation with the manufacturer I mentioned, I guess a Wellbrook or something similar may also get the same great results, though it is far more expensive ... just make sure the h-field antenna is pretty immune to the local e-field, then you will be fine.
Good luck and enjoy the shortwave bands, which seem almost magical again with the recent sun spots!
How do you wire up the PTT RCA plug and what is it for....?
You wrote: "Make sure the noise/auxiliary antenna is not a zig-zack or in an angle, because then you may get noise signals from the same source with a different phase from each leg that will overlay each other."
Not entirely sure what you mean. I am a bit thrown by the use of the word "overlay" which I have not seen in reference to antennas. Also, as regards to a single antenna "very defined phase angle" confounds me. Phase angle exists only with respect to something. A phase of a single antenna without reference to something makes no sense to me. At any rate I think you mean the noise signal on such an antenna could cancel out at the feed point. That is practically impossible except for an antenna carefully designed for that purpose. If it happened, you have a wonderfully directional antenna. You would not need a noise canceller, just use the noise antenna for receiving!
As to loops discriminating against nearby noise, they are often but certainly not always effective. E.g., depending on the noise source and the wiring connected to it, there can be large magnetic coupling of the noise to the loop. The frequency involved has a lot to do with it as well. Listen to the AM BCB on a loop near a switching power supply. If you can null the noise with the loop orientation, then it is the directivity of the loop, not its magnetic nature, which allows you to null.
I heard the good advice - sampling antenna should be in other polarisation that gives -40dB difference in the far field, but near field should be about the same, that makes phasing out QRM more accurate.
@@JxH Whathever value it is, it is a noticeable difference.
Mine is between the radio and my Acom amp, works great. The box can also be used to add an RX antenna to a radio that doesn’t support it, you just phase in antenna two rather than out. That’s what I use it for the most these days. These things do take a lot of playing with to understand, but they do work, just don’t expect to go from s9 of qrm to nothing :) 73
That’s pretty cool, so basically you’re having two receive antennas and you can mix between them for better reception?
I use mine in exactly the same way.
I am merging two magnetic loops by the device- antenna 2 on gain1 - weaker loop on gain2 - max out reception by adjusting the phase of the overlay to get max audability - this averages out QRMS far better than the subtraction method@@petebown
I have the MFJ 1026 and it works great, even with it's telescopic whip antenna. I get wicked AM radio station overload from a radio station about 1/4 mile away and this thing takes it right out! I have a video on my meager channel showing it at work.
Just watched your demo on your channel: wow. That is a HUGE difference.
But for a newby like me, I have no clue how to adjust your qrm eliminater. Which is obviously quality and cost some ...
I'm sure there are demos on how to use it on RUclips and it also comes with instructions. It's not hard. @@Iheartmyson
I use mine on my shortwave receiver and SDR, and they do work quite well, BUT they only work on a single noise source, if you have multiple noise sources it's not going to do much when you have multiple noise sources with an omnidirectional antenna as the main. Now if you pair the QRM Eliminator up with a loop antenna as the main antenna you can handle multiple noise sources, as you can use the loop to null out one source, and use the QRM to null out the other, of you have more than two you're just going to have to choose the greater more annoying noise source out of all to null out.
They can be really finicky to get working, you have to try multiple antennas for the noise/Aux antenna (it's not going to be the same for everyone and everyone's noise source is going to be different), and where you have to place the noise/Aux antenna is also going to be different, and how you place it (vertically or horizontally) is going to be different.
Most people's failure with these is that their noise/Aux antenna isn't correct (as in the type of antenna, the area you place said antenna, and how you place it (vertical, or horizontal), as each noise source is going to be different to everyone, there will be no 100% solution for everyone, like you said, if the noise antenna picks up the broadcast you're trying to listen to, the QRM Eliminator is going to partially null it out and you'll still hear the noise.
And then there the whole knob fiddling, which also takes time to get right.
Here's the results of mine on my shortwave receiver ruclips.net/video/yBgBMNqPIY4/видео.html
(Note), I wasn't really listening to the broadcast when I made that video, I just tuned around to find a station that had the most QRM to show someone that they do indeed work.
Thanks. Bought something similar a year or two ago, but haven't used it yet.
Main interest ATM is MW DX and the problem with most QRME designs is their low frequency limit.
Neighbours fish tank, s6 noise until I saw it dumped in back garden! . Now new neighbour after house renovation and LEDs installed, s9 at set intervels right through the bands about every 15khz. My Qrm eliminator no more as 100watts put through it even though I had the wire from Alinco DX 70 connectedto activate the qrm eliminator bypass switch, but later I read a resistor needs cutting inside the radio to activate it, ohhh well!
Device is ill-named. QRM is interference from other stations. QRN is noise.
Since QRM is usually broadband and based on mains frequency (50 or 60Hz) then it should be possible to extract this on (web) SDR radios by looking for a repetative waveform across the whole SDR passband, averaging the 50/60Hz waveform over a few 100 cycles and then nulling it out. No need for another antenna then. Although another antenna is probably better if there is one to use.
Well, the hertz of the Mains voltage can actually change pitch, modulation or even frequency depending on the time and day. An interesting video i saw the other day, Apparently forensics experts keep a data recording of Mains hum noise and put timestamps.
The reason for that is if lets say the case they're working on has a Video or Audio they can go from, and if there is no Exif data provided in the file. They can compare the Evidence's Hum noise and their database of Hum audios and they can point out when at what time the crime is comitted.
They do work with patience.The other way is to use a remote receiver if you are listening to one specific frequency, such as hack green or others on your phone or computer.
I have one of these. I have it between my G90 and XPA125B it does help with some of the local noise but I imagine it will do much better if I spend some time making a better noise antenna.
@chrisb3989 using the ce-19. There is a jack for PTT, just make a cable 3.5mm TRS on one end and RCA on the other
How about more videos on the operation of Aillunce HS2 with Digital modes.
And yes how to turn on the trnsmit function of the HS2, as it comes factory seting is only set for receiving
I have some videos coming soon on the latest version of the HS2, so now is definitely the time for requests. Cheers
Regarding the 100 watt limit - if you have a radio that does more, they often have a receive only antenna in - so you could use that. The other option is to place this before the amplifier and tuner, right? Not many radios need to excite an amplifier with more than 50 watts I think, correct?
I just ordered the item and used the discount! thanks can't wait to use it!
Congratulations on the video. Your device has 2 gain and one phase knobs. Others have 2 phase knobs and a gain knob. Can you tell what the difference is? Thanks
How do you wire up the PTT RCA plug and what is it for....?
Excellent demonstration, I think 95% of ameteur radio operators are suffering some sort of QRM. I have a issue with QRM that destroys 80m , I'm surprised they don't teach how to deal with it in the exams .
Tony M0VDO
The way to deal with it is to move to Antarctica. No QRM there.
Lots of differences and nuances when it come to QRN and overcoming it. Hard to know what could be on the exam which would be of much benefit unless there were dozens of questions on the subject. If one has man-made QRN, then one can find several good papers and books on the subject.
I’ve a lot of QRM S8-S9 4:00 On my HF inverted L I’ve earthed the antenna which has made a small difference not sure how well the Eliminator
Do you think it could help reduce the Qrm of my unleaded patrol car engine on HF ?
It would have been great if you would have opened the box: I'm curious what's in there...
Put it between the radio and amplifier.
That’s now a “magic” device. It works, but under certain conditions
I see not CAT so I'm assuming with that fat RCA marked PTT it needs to have a piggie back to the mic? I'm real curios to the point I have been thinking almost non stop. I have a click and I think its the neighbors. Only gets me around low 7MHz and mid 3MHz. Tends to be more dominate on 40m. I musta looked a fool but I was walking around my back yard with toner probe and head phones trying to find the damn clicking. I run an EFLW at 88' back to a 9:1 balun. Feed point has a 1:1. Long wires carry a sizzle anyway but this is a loud CLICK.
Last year I spent 3 days of the only vacation I had in ten years re bonding and grounding everything in the shack. I spent a day unplugging everything in the house starting with the wall warts..It was almost quiet.. little snow in the far background. Then Click click.. click click.. click click click.. Blows my mind - Happy DX everyone 73
Amazingly this thing really works great.
I've read to put this before and after the antenna tuner, which is correct?
Had 2 of them, different brands.
Spend hours of hours to get it to work efficiently exspecialy if you have different sources of qrm beside each other. At each qsy retuning is required.
My verdict waste of time. Fix qrm on source and not on rx side !
Years ago I suddenly started getting bad QRM on 20 meter. I eventually figured out it was coming from a PS/2 keyboard of all things. Replaced the keyboard and the problem was gone.
QRN
@@jimeppright7862 I am pretty sure that PS/2 keyboards are not natural. 😉
What are the two discount codes for? CN/CZ?
Also good to see a decent real-world test of this. It feels like magic, honestly.
CN is if you order from the China shipping and the CZ is the Czech warehouse. Thanks for watching 🙏
What about a DSP solution using an Adaptive Noise Filter.
SDR# IF Noise Reduction is good.
Después de estar ausente por unos cuántos años de las bandas de HF al volver me fué imposible escuchar nada,en 80 mts el ruido s9+ ;en 40 mts siempre un s9 a toda hora,la única manera de hacer algún contacto es usando recepción de algún SDR de Argentina,está muriendo la radioaficción emoezás un contacto y no lo podés terminar por el ruido que entra!!
Mine is between the radio and the amp. When I turn on the eliminator it drops my radio power output way down. Anyone know why? Thanks!
Thank you, great informative video.
Built one tried it with various noise receiving wire antennas and was disappointed with its performance.
I'm sure it does work with some qrm but in my case it didn't.
What did work for me was a noise cancelling loop antenna for receive and my fan dipole for tx.
What is a noise cancelling antenna?
Please do another video about pluto plus sdr...
I'm curious to know how it hold up after few months of use...
How long is dc
Hello, I have this device, unfortunately without instructions. Am CB radio operator. Can you please tell me what I have to connect where and how I set up the device. Best of all, step by step. I thank you in advance. With kind regards

Hello, I have this device, unfortunately without instructions. Am CB radio operator. Can you please tell me what I have to connect where and how I set up the device. Best of all, step by step. I thank you in advance. With kind regards
My QRM Eliminator works good, but my MFJ 1026 does a better job.
Barrows Haven
Wouldn’t it be easier to tell your son to turn them lights off?
Well I needed a source of QRM to demonstrate. The lights are long gone now. :-)
For 11 M ist this a Toy ! For 80m and 40m ist ok !
QRM is intentional interference?
It can be. It can also be unintentional. QRM = manmade noise. QRN = natural noise.
These work if you have a single item creating the noise., a psu or similar. If you have a general high noise floor they do nothing. Paid my money and tried them. Didn't help
If you pair it with a loop antenna you can handle multiple noise sources.
The QRM Eliminators are finicky to set up, as each person's QRM is not the same so each will have to have a different setup.
The noise/Aux antenna is the hardest part to get right, the type of antenna, where you have to place it, and how you have to place it (aka horizontal, or vertical), that's many people failure point on why it's doesn't work, the other is they're dealing with multiple noise sources.
For me in some areas the included telescopic antenna will work for the noise/aux antenna, and in other areas it doesn't work and I have to use a different antenna for the noise/Aux antenna (I used my YouLoop antenna for the noise/Aux in this case, some people have to run a long wire for the noise/Aux antenna).
@@madmax2069 tried with long wire and rx loop. I rigged up a psu that I knew was noisy, tuned into that and it removed it completely. The high noise floor was untouched. I don't see how you can remove high noise floor when it is created my many many different sources all at different phases. Sold it all on
I agree...this didn't work well for me either. A DSP unit was a MUCH better solution.
My QRM is really bad here and has driven me away from using my radio once again. I can only use indoor antennas due to my location and for the hf bands I do have a chameleon f loop 2.0 that works from 60m to 10m in conjunction with a IC705 but the qrm from neighbours and some internal devices has drove me mad. It might be worth a try with this as the devices I have seen before were a lot more expensive.
73 - G0LQP
I have have QRM from the neighbors here & my MFJ-1026 works well ( with a LOT of tweaking :)
If anyone wants to build a similar device, mikrowave1 has an awesome video on it : ruclips.net/video/uj2KGgXkdLE/видео.html