Great stuff - I've always been dissatisfied with the so-called calibration cubes, and instead printed much larger strips etc - but haven't been measuring internal dimensions (obvious as soon as you said it that's needed!), and just never thought to check skew, wasn't aware it was something that could be accounted for in the firmware! A new dawn of dimensionally accurate prints awaits!
Very nice indeed! I have printed some 5 or 6 cubes in a year on 11 printers as i never thought it has any real use at 2x2x2cm, but i did print a 50x50x50 once as it is more useful for accuracy.. This video changes that! 😃
Looking good, will definitely get this for my next calibration :D One thing I would find interesting would be skew/accuracy of the z axis, as I feel this is the weakest link in a lot of 'cheap' printers
Really appreciate this calibration test. With a couple of prints I was able to go from ~0.43% XY error and ~0.23° skew to ~0.04% XY error and 0.06° skew. Trickiest thing is getting your calipers squared up with the part when taking measurements. Wonder if as another suggested having notches for this would help.
It actually makes sense! Nice idea for calibration that isn't just the classic (terrible) tweaking x/y/z steps/mm until your calibration cube measures 20.00
Thanks for taking the time to do this mate. I just got a 3D printer and did a cube calibration and was wondering how to correct the settings and in youtube i found this video. THanks again.
Love the design, thanks for sharing! My go-to calibration object has always been the "5 mm calibration steps" (scaled 2x because 5 mm is too puny for a 0.4 mm nozzle): it has the same advantages of internal + external dimensions for measurement, but also has a little section for bridging, and the progressively smaller tiers also let you gauge the cooling (increasing "overextrusion" at higher Z is usually a symptom of insufficient cooling in my experience). But it doesn't have anything for skew, which is something I've never even thought about before, so I'll definitely be giving your flower a shot 🙂
Wow, that’s awesome. Better printing 2-3 of this flowers instead of 20 cubes. Voron cubes are nice to indicate lots of things, but xyz calibration normally sucks
My first reaction was: Interesting method, I'll try it for sure. Clicked the link, payed content. That's a bummer. Checking the site: No proper imprint, no way to switch off cookies, but a director position. Wondering if this is legal at all but for sure there is no way that I'll enter my credit card information on such site.
UK is no longer part of the EU, so i don´t exactly know how GDPR affects him, but afaik he should have at least a Cookie Banner and an Impressum and a Data Policy to even have his site available in the EU.
@@MrBlackFiction I don't know the legals either but it doesn't build up trust in the site like it is now. I know that Paypal, apple pay, google pay etc do cost money, but it feels less scatchy for the customer / me.
5 Euro for this invention and an Excel file. Come on. That's ridiculous. I absolutely despise this grifting taking root in the 3D printing community. There would be no Vez RUclips or Vezbot if the original Reprap people had all had a Patreon paywall or webshop. If you're not capable to get a real job, at least sell actual hardware!
@@testboga5991 is it ridiculous though? This guy spent quite a few man hours to produce this design and you have probably wasted a few trying to calibrate your printer, so why so salty? And your last sentence is really baffling. Anything that produces value to others is a 'real job' or entrepreneurship, to be exact.
Started printing models with gears and several parts interacting with one another and noticed some dimensional inaccuracies. Thanks for the content! I'll be calibrating this way for now on!
Just bought this! I've been printing some multipart pieces that did sort of fit-but-not-really, and i was already on the edge of buying this. Seeing how the parts ended up fitting, i bit the bullet. Being 00:11AM here i may not print the flower just now, but i'm already testing the bridge part. Cheers!
I have an older CR-10S printer and use Cura as a slicing program. There is an add on for Cura called skew compensation. I found this add on to be really useful and it was quite an eye opener to discover that my precious printer was not all that accurate on the three basic planes as I expected it to be ! It was even out by a fraction of a degree on the XY plane. Fortunately, the fix for this plane required a relatively quick and flat print and a bit of basic algebra. For the other two planes I designed a kind of pulley with a sturdy axial piece and printed a few. I am fortunate to have a large old Meccano set and built myself a test rig to analyze the wobble on a number of these test pulleys. After about 5 or 6 tries I had the wobble reduced to virtually zero. This was a very interesting project on its own !
A possible enhancement to the flower would be notches the width of the calipers jaw along the measuring edges. This would help to measure squarely as the jaws would sit in the notches I think ?
Ran this on mine and my errors were 0.02, 0.02, 0.06 so not bad. This is a great tool to check for accuracy and the excel file is great addition. Well done!
Using the filament shrinkage setting in superslicer with a very small value, eg 99.965% results in lots of overextrusion and print looking crappy. Ultimately after hours of work to arrive at the desired adjustment value, the recommended strategy does not work. Tried with the current stable release and nightly build, same results. If perhaps I could access the source files in the protected spreadsheet, I could calculate an XY compensation factor, which requires an absolute value rather than a percentage. Recommendation: if you are going to protect the sheet, provide the values we need to plug into the slicer too for both SS shrinkage and XY compensation factor.
I have often thought the letter on the cube will mess the measurements I tend to use a temp tower and a flow topless cube for my measurements but will try yours for sure
Ah, I found it by going to the shop and looking for it. Might be nice to mention this is £5 on this video's description. I will order one later today, seems well worth it.
Wonderful good sir ! This seems like very valuable time and effort I can’t wait to start checking all my printers with this test! Ty very much for all your hard work here sir. !
You're correct, this is a superior measurement system for calibration. My only concern with this method (as its not described in the video) is how you're determining/separating form from position. All measurements are measurements of form/size. Whereas, I believe, skew would be a measurement of POSITION. This means that all measurements relating to skew (or features out of place) should originate from the same feature, ie a Datum. You could do this by applying a cylindrical feature in the center of the part and cylindrical features at the diagonals and measure center-line to center-line for these lengths. This would probably yield less than 3% improvement, but for accuracy sake... now you know.
First of all thank you designing this tool. I printed one ,measured, then did the adjustments on the printer saved the settings. Round two same thing. It was worse than the first one . Back to square one with the measurements. Round eight still no better than the original settings . Decided to go back to what I had in the beginning.
Have you considered caliper tolerances in these measurements. Maybe there is nothing to change if it's readings are in tolerances of your calipers. By the way this will differ between Prusa Slicer and Cura because Cura calculate rectangle area for line protection, therefore 0.4 mm thick line which is 0.2 mm high, will be arround 0.44mm wide if you print with 100% flow for outer walls (extrusion multiplier)
I have just used this very successfully to calibrate my Ender 3 V2 Pro. I have two suggestions for improving the excel spread-sheet. I'm using the Orca slicer and entered the shrinkage compensation value. However, on a 2nd calibration run the compensation value suggested by your spread-sheet doesn't take into account the currently set shrinkage value. It is an easy calculation to do, but would help if you could enter the current shrinkage value so that it does the calculation for you. An unlocked area would be useful for entering comments on changes made.
I found that the best way to adjust step/mm is actually to measure the physical x y z movement of the printhead , 3d printed objects tend to shrink when cooled.
I bought a dial indicator exactly for that reason. That being said, I have never attempted so many measurements on a calibration print, and never for skew, so I’ll be giving this new method a try.
Yes, this measures the actual filament after shrinkage. its designed to adapt a tuned printer to produce parts that are dimensionally accurate after printing and cooling.
I bought the STL and read the instructions. Basically, what you're getting at is that we should get accurate prints by changing the E-steps and rotation distance (also account for Skew)? I have always used horizontal expansion to get accurate prints but the approach here is different. Am I correct in these assumptions? Should I never depend on horizontal expansion again? Will changing rotation distance really carry over dimensional accuracy to other models and prints?
My first thought was "What? £5 for an STL that I'll print once?", but then my brain went, "The guy has a point, it's really brilliantly designed, that's worth a cup of coffee!". Good job, sir!
This is a great calibration tool. I may need a little input though because results got worse. I expected the print to get bigger but it got smaller. I'm using Klipper and Cura. I used the SuperSlicer setting in a Cura plugin for "Scaling Factor Shrinkage Compensation". I'm thinking this value for Cura should be 100.19 and not 99.81 like in the Excel file. X = -0.19% Y = -0.20% Skew = -0.03% Inner = -0.01% Outer = -0.37%
I'd be curious to see how this calibration flower stacks up against teaching techs website and presliced models to dial in a printer. I think I'll use this on my son's printer as mine is pretty heavily molded, and he's got a stock ender 3.
I spent ages making adjustments to get a calibration cube 20.00mm on all measurements on an Ender 3, I am curious to know how this machine will fare with the flower calibration
Thanks for the great work, I really appreciate it! However, after printing and measuring, I'm a bit lost what to do with the results. I understand how to process the skew value, but where do the X and Y values go? In the video you mention the x/Y Shrinkage setting in SuperSlicer, but that's one value, but I have two different values for X and Y - so which one to apply where and how? Maybe I'm missing something really obvious, but atm, I think this part could use a little more detail. A quick pointer where to put which value would be greatly appreciated.
tested.... my skew is not problem, problem is in inner XY compensation. first you need calibrate this then you need calibrate skew. your skew never gonna be correct. my wall are 5,2mm they need to be 5mm! so first inner compesation in slicer. after that skew. (and ) excel file for superslicer -klipper is in error rotation distance. result is in only in 2 decimals. klipper works on 6 decimals (documentation) so on ender(depend on hardware pulley) you missing some milimetes on correct move x-y. not mentioned in the video and instructions. if skew is saved (SAVE_CONFIG) then it does not need to be loaded every time in gcode at the beginning and end. it is constantly loaded on every print. (same goes for z-offset). if you wanna load skew on each print then a macro command needs to be made, like bltouch.
I'm guessing that you measure inner dimensions to cancel out actual line width. Though using your model you can not only measure shrinkage rate but also horizontal expansion (Cura setting, there is also one in super slocer). Shrinkage = (measurement of 100mm - measurement of 50mm ) / (100-50); horizontal expansion = (100 * shrinkage - measurement of 100mm) / 2.
Will definitely try it out and see how it goes. Single print multi calibration no hassles printing 20 diff stls. I'm assuming this works for Deltas , Corexy's and Cartesians since the logic behind it is the same
Thank you for this! I'm converting my old ender 3 v2 to a belt driven z system (just because and it looks fun) and this will be a fantastic calibration test to test and tune it.
Hi there! Please, tell me why are you going to replace the Z thread to a belt? I ask because the threaded rod is actually the only always accurate axis in the Ender (since each turn will move exactly 8mm, it is the specification of the thread). 🤔
@@GeekDetour For no other reason than it would be a nice and fun thing thing to do actually. I was going to do a dual Z rod with stepper motor upgrade - even get some acme rods that I know are true - but I had some Gates belt laying around and the mod would essentially give me the same effect as a dual Z rod; perfect X gantry control. So this has nothing to do with better quality or the like. Purely a fun mod to apply to the printer. Like adding linear rails. Won't increase quality, just reduce maintenance and guarantee printing parity from print to print. :)
Very nice. One issue with most calibration objects is they can be impacted by elephant’s foot (which is an issue to be resolved separately from E steps). Does this have chamfers to prevent elephant’s foot from impacting the measurements?
Super nice project and way to calibrate with real solutions as well. What about calibration with the printer frame and a caliper instead of relying on a 3d print that as so many other variables like extrusion rate etc (even if your solution takes it into account)?
Well if you think about it, it doesn't matter what anything else is doing as long as the print comes out square and the right size, so best to measure the printed parts.
yeah, if I remember correctly, the Skew compensation is M556 for reprap, so if you have your skew angle, you can input: M556 S100 X[100*sin(skew_angle)] Y0 Z0 Obviously, complete the calculation with the sin() seperate and just input the result into the gcode command. Y and Z are zero because those represent YZ and XZ skew respectively.
Thanks for it, I bought it. Question... I can adjust the XYZ Axis steps on my display. (Marlin Community Firmware) What should I input if the Settings are not in prozent? Example: X=80, Y=100 and Z=400.
I printed it on my Core XY but I have two questions about the excel file: 1. The file says "If you have CoreXY, X and Y are 'locked' to each other so use the average of the two errors." But wouldn't it be better to rotate the print by 45° to be exactly on the axis and have x and y seperate rather than getting just the average? 2. My part turned out slightly to small so the file suggests to either Scale the Part up in the slicer or adjust the Steps but if I decide for the later, if I understand correctly the printer will move a further distance without knowing that it also has to extrude more material to make up for the now bigger part did the file already calculate with that or do I have to adjust the extruder after this aswell?
Bought the test and ran it on E3D toolchanger. Skew 0.32° off! -> Unscrewed the Y axis and put it back on the square, re-tensioned the belt -> 0.01°. Quite disappointed that E3D give a machine in such a bad calibration. It would be interesting to have some data on flow regulation, do you have any ideas?
Clever, but doesn't account for over/underextrusion. This can cause the dimensions to be off, just as shrinkage can. Not sure how a test print could address this though. In any case, this is certainly much better than a cube.
That's a really clever approach for proper calibration (unlike those damn cubes that are pretty ... useless, IMHO). I'll try this asap before re-starting some projects. I agree on a per-material calibration, yet should the material brand be considered too (per-material and per-brand) or can we simply ditch that detail ?
I've not tested enough different brands to know. I'm sure a low warp abs will shrink less than a normal abs, hence less warping, but I'm hoping most differences from one brand to the next will be negligible even though they probably exist.
@@Vector3DP That's precisely what I was referring to. One of my go-to ABS is TitanX (and its ASA sibling, ApolloX) by FormFutura and ... these don't warp (even on unenclosed machines). Gonna have to check these against regular ABS that's sitting around.
Can anyone point to a guide on how to apply these results to a prusa MK4? I found lots of forums complaining about changes to "pronterface" whatever that is, but have not been able to find an actual step by step for adjusting the printer firmware.
I'm confused why the last argument Klipper gcode fix is 69.59 at 4:34 . If the square was 100mm on the diagonal, that would mean the side length would be 100mm/sqrt(2)=70.71mm
It seems like you just took the avg % correct for the x axis and just multiplied by 70 instead of 70.71 👀 Naughty naughty Edit: ...turns out, didn't affect the calculation 🤷♂I think it should be 70.30 for yours though, to be picky
Hello and thanks a lot for this video. I bought your Calibration flow, print the calibration flower on my Prusa Mini, log the measurements in the calibration calculator. OK, and now ? i'm lost.... As i can't update the Marlin's firmware of the Prusa, how can i make adjustments ? I found a X correction of 0.25% and Y correction of 0.40%. The skew correction is 0.29°. I don't know how using these measurements in the prusaSlicer.... Sorry for my English, i'm French 😉
Not sure if your website is broken for anyone else, but I am unable to see anything available in the store. But otherwise it looks like a good way to calibrate a few things at once.
Very clever approach, I think this is first skew and multipoint single print calibration I've actually had faith in.
Great stuff - I've always been dissatisfied with the so-called calibration cubes, and instead printed much larger strips etc - but haven't been measuring internal dimensions (obvious as soon as you said it that's needed!), and just never thought to check skew, wasn't aware it was something that could be accounted for in the firmware! A new dawn of dimensionally accurate prints awaits!
Very nice indeed! I have printed some 5 or 6 cubes in a year on 11 printers as i never thought it has any real use at 2x2x2cm, but i did print a 50x50x50 once as it is more useful for accuracy.. This video changes that! 😃
wow, you printed 50cm cube for testing? 😄
Looking good, will definitely get this for my next calibration :D
One thing I would find interesting would be skew/accuracy of the z axis, as I feel this is the weakest link in a lot of 'cheap' printers
Really appreciate this calibration test. With a couple of prints I was able to go from ~0.43% XY error and ~0.23° skew to ~0.04% XY error and 0.06° skew. Trickiest thing is getting your calipers squared up with the part when taking measurements. Wonder if as another suggested having notches for this would help.
Hello! He actually updated the flower to make measuring with the calipers easier
It actually makes sense! Nice idea for calibration that isn't just the classic (terrible) tweaking x/y/z steps/mm until your calibration cube measures 20.00
You can tell a lot of effort went into this :) I just purchased it from your store. Keep up the good work
This is great, I calibrated my Voron 2.4 printer with it and since I did it in ASA I can now use it as a impromptu coaster haha. Thank you very much
Thanks for taking the time to do this mate. I just got a 3D printer and did a cube calibration and was wondering how to correct the settings and in youtube i found this video. THanks again.
Great contribution to our Community! Thank you!
Love the design, thanks for sharing! My go-to calibration object has always been the "5 mm calibration steps" (scaled 2x because 5 mm is too puny for a 0.4 mm nozzle): it has the same advantages of internal + external dimensions for measurement, but also has a little section for bridging, and the progressively smaller tiers also let you gauge the cooling (increasing "overextrusion" at higher Z is usually a symptom of insufficient cooling in my experience). But it doesn't have anything for skew, which is something I've never even thought about before, so I'll definitely be giving your flower a shot 🙂
What a great way to get better dimensional accuracy measurements. Love it!
Good work! I noticed you even made sure to chamfer the edges and the bottom for even extrusion and to avoid elephant’s foot.
I was curious about this and the potential effects of that, This just sealed it for me that I'll try this soon
Wow, that’s awesome. Better printing 2-3 of this flowers instead of 20 cubes. Voron cubes are nice to indicate lots of things, but xyz calibration normally sucks
My first reaction was: Interesting method, I'll try it for sure. Clicked the link, payed content. That's a bummer. Checking the site: No proper imprint, no way to switch off cookies, but a director position. Wondering if this is legal at all but for sure there is no way that I'll enter my credit card information on such site.
UK is no longer part of the EU, so i don´t exactly know how GDPR affects him, but afaik he should have at least a Cookie Banner and an Impressum and a Data Policy to even have his site available in the EU.
@@MrBlackFiction I don't know the legals either but it doesn't build up trust in the site like it is now. I know that Paypal, apple pay, google pay etc do cost money, but it feels less scatchy for the customer / me.
5 Euro for this invention and an Excel file. Come on. That's ridiculous. I absolutely despise this grifting taking root in the 3D printing community. There would be no Vez RUclips or Vezbot if the original Reprap people had all had a Patreon paywall or webshop. If you're not capable to get a real job, at least sell actual hardware!
@@testboga5991 is it ridiculous though? This guy spent quite a few man hours to produce this design and you have probably wasted a few trying to calibrate your printer, so why so salty?
And your last sentence is really baffling. Anything that produces value to others is a 'real job' or entrepreneurship, to be exact.
Started printing models with gears and several parts interacting with one another and noticed some dimensional inaccuracies. Thanks for the content! I'll be calibrating this way for now on!
Just bought this! I've been printing some multipart pieces that did sort of fit-but-not-really, and i was already on the edge of buying this. Seeing how the parts ended up fitting, i bit the bullet. Being 00:11AM here i may not print the flower just now, but i'm already testing the bridge part. Cheers!
Thanks for this. The video from Stefan brought me here.
I wish you the best outcome in this difficult period (I went through it 3 years ago).
Brilliant👍. I am in the middle of calibrating my printer and profiles do perfect timing. I have always found the calibration cubes less than ideal.
I have an older CR-10S printer and use Cura as a slicing program. There is an add on for Cura called skew compensation. I found this add on to be really useful and it was quite an eye opener to discover that my precious printer was not all that accurate on the three basic planes as I expected it to be ! It was even out by a fraction of a degree on the XY plane. Fortunately, the fix for this plane required a relatively quick and flat print and a bit of basic algebra. For the other two planes I designed a kind of pulley with a sturdy axial piece and printed a few. I am fortunate to have a large old Meccano set and built myself a test rig to analyze the wobble on a number of these test pulleys. After about 5 or 6 tries I had the wobble reduced to virtually zero. This was a very interesting project on its own !
Thanks for this. Just purchased the files and I'm starting a new set of calibration prints. Cheers!
A possible enhancement to the flower would be notches the width of the calipers jaw along the measuring edges. This would help to measure squarely as the jaws would sit in the notches I think ?
Ran this on mine and my errors were 0.02, 0.02, 0.06 so not bad. This is a great tool to check for accuracy and the excel file is great addition. Well done!
Was able to go from 0.2 tolerance to 0.1 tolerance on a tolerance coin test, thanks!
Using the filament shrinkage setting in superslicer with a very small value, eg 99.965% results in lots of overextrusion and print looking crappy. Ultimately after hours of work to arrive at the desired adjustment value, the recommended strategy does not work. Tried with the current stable release and nightly build, same results. If perhaps I could access the source files in the protected spreadsheet, I could calculate an XY compensation factor, which requires an absolute value rather than a percentage. Recommendation: if you are going to protect the sheet, provide the values we need to plug into the slicer too for both SS shrinkage and XY compensation factor.
I have often thought the letter on the cube will mess the measurements I tend to use a temp tower and a flow topless cube for my measurements but will try yours for sure
Thankyou. Finally can print something accurate. Being stgruggling with this for years. Now I can print usefull things. 0.11% X, 0%Y and 0.01 skew.
Lovely stuff you bring to the community! This will be a great tool for freshly built diy printers to make sure they are true and correct.
Absolutely!
Looks more like a waffle than a flower 😛
SHhhhhh, nobody noticed. 😉
Absolutely brilliant! I hope you use that congratuling yourself step liberally! Thank you for sharing this.
Many thanks. I will be using that tomorrow after tweaking some mechanical settings today.
Or maybe not. Page not found when I try to get the files.
Ah, I found it by going to the shop and looking for it. Might be nice to mention this is £5 on this video's description. I will order one later today, seems well worth it.
Interesting new approach 👍😀
I wil give it a go soon
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
No problem 👍
Wonderful good sir ! This seems like very valuable time and effort I can’t wait to start checking all my printers with this test! Ty very much for all your hard work here sir. !
Well .. I don't think I can get better than this. On a Tenlog TL-D3 Pro, ran the calib flower and got a skew of 0.0012 ... on first run 😁😁😁
I appreciate the thought and the effort you put into this. Your excel and pdf are what convinced me it is worth purchasing.
Awesome, thank you! I do try and go beyond just the model because making sure you use it correctly makes a huge difference to the success. Enjoy :)
You're correct, this is a superior measurement system for calibration. My only concern with this method (as its not described in the video) is how you're determining/separating form from position. All measurements are measurements of form/size. Whereas, I believe, skew would be a measurement of POSITION. This means that all measurements relating to skew (or features out of place) should originate from the same feature, ie a Datum. You could do this by applying a cylindrical feature in the center of the part and cylindrical features at the diagonals and measure center-line to center-line for these lengths. This would probably yield less than 3% improvement, but for accuracy sake... now you know.
You mean like how a ball-bar test checks movement?
Not gunna lie, I'd love to be able to do that ki d of test on my printer
First of all thank you designing this tool. I printed one ,measured, then did the adjustments on the printer saved the settings.
Round two same thing. It was worse than the first one . Back to square one with the measurements.
Round eight still no better than the original settings .
Decided to go back to what I had in the beginning.
You only need to do once.
Nice of you to share, thanks!
My pleasure!
Have you considered caliper tolerances in these measurements. Maybe there is nothing to change if it's readings are in tolerances of your calipers. By the way this will differ between Prusa Slicer and Cura because Cura calculate rectangle area for line protection, therefore 0.4 mm thick line which is 0.2 mm high, will be arround 0.44mm wide if you print with 100% flow for outer walls (extrusion multiplier)
It's great that Michael Falk found a new career after his news gig
I have just used this very successfully to calibrate my Ender 3 V2 Pro. I have two suggestions for improving the excel spread-sheet.
I'm using the Orca slicer and entered the shrinkage compensation value. However, on a 2nd calibration run the compensation value suggested by your spread-sheet doesn't take into account the currently set shrinkage value. It is an easy calculation to do, but would help if you could enter the current shrinkage value so that it does the calculation for you.
An unlocked area would be useful for entering comments on changes made.
Hello, Adam, you just won yourself a new subscriber ;-)
Thanks a lot!
I found that the best way to adjust step/mm is actually to measure the physical x y z movement of the printhead , 3d printed objects tend to shrink when cooled.
I bought a dial indicator exactly for that reason. That being said, I have never attempted so many measurements on a calibration print, and never for skew, so I’ll be giving this new method a try.
Yes, this measures the actual filament after shrinkage. its designed to adapt a tuned printer to produce parts that are dimensionally accurate after printing and cooling.
Bought so my wife wouldn't think the Mitutoyo calipers I wanted for Christmas weren't a waste... :)
Thank you. I am excited to calibrate.
I bought the STL and read the instructions. Basically, what you're getting at is that we should get accurate prints by changing the E-steps and rotation distance (also account for Skew)? I have always used horizontal expansion to get accurate prints but the approach here is different. Am I correct in these assumptions? Should I never depend on horizontal expansion again? Will changing rotation distance really carry over dimensional accuracy to other models and prints?
Will test this right now !!!!
Awesome, thanks for helping our the 3DP community!
Awesome, I’ll be doing this for my Ender 3 right now
My first thought was "What? £5 for an STL that I'll print once?", but then my brain went, "The guy has a point, it's really brilliantly designed, that's worth a cup of coffee!". Good job, sir!
Thank you, I'm glad you changed your mind 😊
Great explanation of a great tool! Definitely looks superior to many of the other options for printer calibration.
Congratulations! I like this calibration tool and I seems good price 6 euros for your effort and intelligence
This is a great calibration tool. I may need a little input though because results got worse. I expected the print to get bigger but it got smaller. I'm using Klipper and Cura.
I used the SuperSlicer setting in a Cura plugin for "Scaling Factor Shrinkage Compensation". I'm thinking this value for Cura should be 100.19 and not 99.81 like in the Excel file.
X = -0.19%
Y = -0.20%
Skew = -0.03%
Inner = -0.01%
Outer = -0.37%
Join us in the Vector3D discord and we can help you better there.
I'd be curious to see how this calibration flower stacks up against teaching techs website and presliced models to dial in a printer.
I think I'll use this on my son's printer as mine is pretty heavily molded, and he's got a stock ender 3.
Bought it! Thank you! Nice done!
These are pretty great as coasters actually.
Thank you. This is great. I will try this out soon. 👍👍👍👍
This is GENIOUS!
Thanks
I spent ages making adjustments to get a calibration cube 20.00mm on all measurements on an Ender 3, I am curious to know how this machine will fare with the flower calibration
Thanks for the great work, I really appreciate it! However, after printing and measuring, I'm a bit lost what to do with the results. I understand how to process the skew value, but where do the X and Y values go? In the video you mention the x/Y Shrinkage setting in SuperSlicer, but that's one value, but I have two different values for X and Y - so which one to apply where and how? Maybe I'm missing something really obvious, but atm, I think this part could use a little more detail. A quick pointer where to put which value would be greatly appreciated.
V6 spreadsheet with more guidance and details on implementation coming soon.
@@Vector3DP Fantastic news! Thanks so much.
tested.... my skew is not problem, problem is in inner XY compensation. first you need calibrate this then you need calibrate skew. your skew never gonna be correct. my wall are 5,2mm they need to be 5mm! so first inner compesation in slicer. after that skew. (and ) excel file for superslicer -klipper is in error rotation distance. result is in only in 2 decimals. klipper works on 6 decimals (documentation) so on ender(depend on hardware pulley) you missing some milimetes on correct move x-y. not mentioned in the video and instructions. if skew is saved (SAVE_CONFIG) then it does not need to be loaded every time in gcode at the beginning and end. it is constantly loaded on every print. (same goes for z-offset). if you wanna load skew on each print then a macro command needs to be made, like bltouch.
I'm guessing that you measure inner dimensions to cancel out actual line width. Though using your model you can not only measure shrinkage rate but also horizontal expansion (Cura setting, there is also one in super slocer). Shrinkage = (measurement of 100mm - measurement of 50mm ) / (100-50); horizontal expansion = (100 * shrinkage - measurement of 100mm) / 2.
Will definitely try it out and see how it goes.
Single print multi calibration no hassles printing 20 diff stls.
I'm assuming this works for Deltas , Corexy's and Cartesians since the logic behind it is the same
I'll definitely be doing this. I'd love to know how skew my printers are
Some people who thought theirs were square have turned out very skew. it's quite surprising.
Thank you for this! I'm converting my old ender 3 v2 to a belt driven z system (just because and it looks fun) and this will be a fantastic calibration test to test and tune it.
Hi there! Please, tell me why are you going to replace the Z thread to a belt? I ask because the threaded rod is actually the only always accurate axis in the Ender (since each turn will move exactly 8mm, it is the specification of the thread). 🤔
@@GeekDetour For no other reason than it would be a nice and fun thing thing to do actually. I was going to do a dual Z rod with stepper motor upgrade - even get some acme rods that I know are true - but I had some Gates belt laying around and the mod would essentially give me the same effect as a dual Z rod; perfect X gantry control.
So this has nothing to do with better quality or the like. Purely a fun mod to apply to the printer. Like adding linear rails. Won't increase quality, just reduce maintenance and guarantee printing parity from print to print. :)
Very nice.
One issue with most calibration objects is they can be impacted by elephant’s foot (which is an issue to be resolved separately from E steps).
Does this have chamfers to prevent elephant’s foot from impacting the measurements?
Of course it does :)
@@Vector3DP you’re too good!
Great work, well thought out, thank you!
Liked and subed. This was quality work, thank you, I'll get printing immediately
Super nice project and way to calibrate with real solutions as well. What about calibration with the printer frame and a caliper instead of relying on a 3d print that as so many other variables like extrusion rate etc (even if your solution takes it into account)?
Well if you think about it, it doesn't matter what anything else is doing as long as the print comes out square and the right size, so best to measure the printed parts.
wonderfull!!! Well done, I wanna print this today with diferent nozzles as well ;)
I loved this, great job man.
Great video. You have given this obessive tinkerer a new goal!
Is the possible with duet, Reprap?
yeah, if I remember correctly, the Skew compensation is M556 for reprap, so if you have your skew angle, you can input:
M556 S100 X[100*sin(skew_angle)] Y0 Z0
Obviously, complete the calculation with the sin() seperate and just input the result into the gcode command. Y and Z are zero because those represent YZ and XZ skew respectively.
Wow! it's Amazing I did it well ! Perfect work !
Very Clever, Thanks...👍
Thanks for it, I bought it. Question... I can adjust the XYZ Axis steps on my display. (Marlin Community Firmware) What should I input if the Settings are not in prozent? Example: X=80, Y=100 and Z=400.
great thanks for sharing 👍
I printed it on my Core XY but I have two questions about the excel file:
1. The file says "If you have CoreXY, X and Y are 'locked' to each other so use the average of the two errors." But wouldn't it be better to rotate the print by 45° to be exactly on the axis and have x and y seperate rather than getting just the average?
2. My part turned out slightly to small so the file suggests to either Scale the Part up in the slicer or adjust the Steps but if I decide for the later, if I understand correctly the printer will move a further distance without knowing that it also has to extrude more material to make up for the now bigger part did the file already calculate with that or do I have to adjust the extruder after this aswell?
great info! Thanks for sharing!
Hi, already purchased this, but want to purchase XYZ also, is there any video regarding that ?
Question... how do i "calibrate" exactly?
Very nice!
I wonder how hard it would be to create a hexagon-based version for delta printers…
Really good stuff, I Will try It and report result the here
Bought the test and ran it on E3D toolchanger.
Skew 0.32° off! -> Unscrewed the Y axis and put it back on the square, re-tensioned the belt -> 0.01°. Quite disappointed that E3D give a machine in such a bad calibration.
It would be interesting to have some data on flow regulation, do you have any ideas?
Hi hi! Nice video. How i fix the skew on a Bambu Lab P1S?
Very cool, would love to try it. Is there a compensation needed for different nozzle sizes? I am using 0.6mm.
How do you put the skew factor into a Prusa MK4 printer? In the Prusa slicer - I don't see how? In G-code? Someplace else?
Sadly Mk4 doesn't have facility to add skew correction as far as i know. sorry.
Clever, but doesn't account for over/underextrusion. This can cause the dimensions to be off, just as shrinkage can. Not sure how a test print could address this though. In any case, this is certainly much better than a cube.
It actually does in theory, the residual error that you cannot remove by steps/mm will probably be extrusion.
Why does Klipper not accept SET_SCEW XY command?
Cool, and ain't to expensive considering the effort put. If I buy now am I entitled to get future revisions free of charge?
Yes, updates to this design all included in the purchase.
I'm such a nube and so lost where do I Input these corrections once I get the measurements... I use cura ..
In Superslicer you entered 99.35 for Shrinkage. but were is this value in your excel? where does it come from?
Works good, tnx
Is the size of the print still the best choice if you have a 500X500mm print bed, or would a larger version make sense?
Very Nice!
That's a really clever approach for proper calibration (unlike those damn cubes that are pretty ... useless, IMHO). I'll try this asap before re-starting some projects.
I agree on a per-material calibration, yet should the material brand be considered too (per-material and per-brand) or can we simply ditch that detail ?
I've not tested enough different brands to know. I'm sure a low warp abs will shrink less than a normal abs, hence less warping, but I'm hoping most differences from one brand to the next will be negligible even though they probably exist.
@@Vector3DP That's precisely what I was referring to. One of my go-to ABS is TitanX (and its ASA sibling, ApolloX) by FormFutura and ... these don't warp (even on unenclosed machines). Gonna have to check these against regular ABS that's sitting around.
Can anyone point to a guide on how to apply these results to a prusa MK4?
I found lots of forums complaining about changes to "pronterface" whatever that is, but have not been able to find an actual step by step for adjusting the printer firmware.
I'm confused why the last argument Klipper gcode fix is 69.59 at 4:34 . If the square was 100mm on the diagonal, that would mean the side length would be 100mm/sqrt(2)=70.71mm
It seems like you just took the avg % correct for the x axis and just multiplied by 70 instead of 70.71 👀 Naughty naughty
Edit: ...turns out, didn't affect the calculation 🤷♂I think it should be 70.30 for yours though, to be picky
Hello and thanks a lot for this video. I bought your Calibration flow, print the calibration flower on my Prusa Mini, log the measurements in the calibration calculator. OK, and now ? i'm lost.... As i can't update the Marlin's firmware of the Prusa, how can i make adjustments ? I found a X correction of 0.25% and Y correction of 0.40%. The skew correction is 0.29°. I don't know how using these measurements in the prusaSlicer.... Sorry for my English, i'm French 😉
Does the skew correction value changes when tighten belts right?
Not sure if your website is broken for anyone else, but I am unable to see anything available in the store. But otherwise it looks like a good way to calibrate a few things at once.
Seems to be working fine for me and others.