Great video and easy to understand. I learn from you that Sharkbite has a slip ball valve which is exactly what I need for my plumbing project. You cleaned both cut ends of the pipe with emery cloth, however, I believe, the cleaning of the pipe should have taken place on the entire 2" length of the upper pipe as this is where the "O" ring is located at the end of the slip fitting. The cleaning of the bottom portion of the pipe is correct as the "O" ring is located near the end of the fitting on the pipe. I also noticed that electrical cables from the junction box should have a staple with 12" of the box to meet electrical code.
I'm glad I could help identify a product that will help in your plumbing project. I agree that cleaning the copper pipe further on each side would be better.
@@u2s1fan Yes, on a copper pipe you should lightly sand the copper pipe to remove any burs on the cut edge that could tear/nick the water sealing "O" rings in the Sharkbite.
If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ruclips.net/video/da5bEmEkVGI/видео.html. Hope that helps.
Hi, i pretty much had the same issue you had, the only difference was i didn't have a shut off valve in my basement for the utility tub. I had absolutely no idea how to install a shut off valve untill i saw this video. I followed each and every step as you did, bought the exact equipment needed to this and it did the job. Thank you so much for sharing and making this video. You saved me quite a few dollars if I had to call a plumber to install theae valves. Thanks again 🍻
I am so glad the video was helpful! Having shut off valves for every line is something I think should be installed when homes are built. Since that doesn't happen, we need to do it ourselves.
When you slid the first valve to the top pipe, did you slide it in further than the depth mark you made? Is this why you were able to slide it down to the black line you made?
Yes. You slide the valve on further than it's final spot at first, then release it and slide it onto the other part of the pipe. That's why you need both marks so you know both ends are in the correct spot.
Each size of SharkBite tells you how much to cut off. For a 1/2" pipe this valve said 2 inches. Check the package and it will tell you the correct amount of pipe to cut out.
The 2" is for the slip joint fittings - the fittings designed to patch into existing pipes, not for the regular fittings. The slip fittings are all longer - like this one.
It is special plumbers sanding cloth, also known as emery cloth. I don't think it lists a grit. The technical specialist I spoke with at SharkBite said specifically to not use regular sandpaper as it removes too much material. Hope that helps.
The SharkBite package or website may list this information for each size of pipe but I highly recommend you get the deburring and depth tool. Not deburring caused me many leaks in the past.
Great presentation. I would suggest for the first timers Dont do both at once. Do one at a time and test, have a spare on hand in case you manage to screw it up. It will not go to waste and you can return if you dont need it. What do you do if you find a leak?
Thanks! Doing the pipes one at a time is a good idea if you are new to plumbing. If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ruclips.net/video/da5bEmEkVGI/видео.html. Hope that helps.
I have partially opened the valve to restrict the flow when testing after a repair so I think you could leave it partially open if you didn’t want the full water flow.
Dont waste your time scraping the copper. all is needed is to have straight burless ends. My whole house is put together with sharkbites. Never have one leak and not once have I ever clean the copper. Scraching the copper the way done in video is going to cause leaks over time Do: Ensure the materials are clean, undamaged and don’t have any foreign objects in them or on them. If the pipe just has dirt or debris on it, you can simply wipe it off with a wet cloth. If working with copper pipe that has old solder on it, use fine sandpaper like 180 grit to remove it. Be extra careful not to scratch the pipe. Check that the pipe is round and free from other scratches, cuts or gouges. Look to make sure there are no burrs or sharp sections on the cut end. The SharkBite deburr & gauge tool allows you to quickly deburr copper pipe with a simple rotation of the tool once the pipe is inserted. Don't: Forget to clean or deburr piping. Old solder, debris, glue and aging pipe can damage the o-ring in the SharkBite fitting, which keeps it from forming a secure connection. Shine up copper with sandpaper or emery cloth like you would if you were going to solder. This can leave superficial scratches on the pipe that could cause a leak between the o-ring and the outer surface of the pipe.
If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ruclips.net/video/da5bEmEkVGI/видео.html. Hope that helps.
good presentation, likely your descriptions as you did it. only thing I didn't like is speeding up the 2nd valve. i wanted to see it done again and hear a second time what you were saying. no reason to speed that up.
I checked with an expert in the SharkBite tech support department regarding sandpaper. The issue is with using it too much or too hard and changing the shape or diameter of the pipe so that the O-ring does not work properly. What I showed, using the proper plumber sandpaper and using it to just clean up the pipe with wiping down afterwards is OK. It is also key to use the deburring tool every time. I hope that helps.
Great video and easy to understand. I learn from you that Sharkbite has a slip ball valve which is exactly what I need for my plumbing project. You cleaned both cut ends of the pipe with emery cloth, however, I believe, the cleaning of the pipe should have taken place on the entire 2" length of the upper pipe as this is where the "O" ring is located at the end of the slip fitting. The cleaning of the bottom portion of the pipe is correct as the "O" ring is located near the end of the fitting on the pipe. I also noticed that electrical cables from the junction box should have a staple with 12" of the box to meet electrical code.
I'm glad I could help identify a product that will help in your plumbing project. I agree that cleaning the copper pipe further on each side would be better.
You’re not supposed to sand the copper pipe if using sharkbite.
@@u2s1fan Yes, on a copper pipe you should lightly sand the copper pipe to remove any burs on the cut edge that could tear/nick the water sealing "O" rings in the Sharkbite.
You are the shark bit king
I see you have plenty of them
Excellent presentation straight forward
Great short video, would have been nice if you walked us through the procedure if there WAS a leak during your inspection.
If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ruclips.net/video/da5bEmEkVGI/видео.html. Hope that helps.
Hi, i pretty much had the same issue you had, the only difference was i didn't have a shut off valve in my basement for the utility tub. I had absolutely no idea how to install a shut off valve untill i saw this video. I followed each and every step as you did, bought the exact equipment needed to this and it did the job. Thank you so much for sharing and making this video. You saved me quite a few dollars if I had to call a plumber to install theae valves. Thanks again 🍻
I am so glad the video was helpful! Having shut off valves for every line is something I think should be installed when homes are built. Since that doesn't happen, we need to do it ourselves.
The tub spout in the shower is wild
Hmmmm...... interesting. Well, ain't seen that one before.
thank you for making this video.... I was looking for instructions on how to install it. Great video
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
How do you measure when you want to replace an existing valve?
Thank you!! This is just what I need!
I'm glad I could help!
Can this be used on hot side of home boiler?
Great video, thank you 😊
I'm glad you found the video helpful
This video addresses the problem I need to solve-Thanks
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Exactly what I was looking for, thank you so much for sharing
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
I will put something to cover the lower pipe when I sand the upper pipe
When you slid the first valve to the top pipe, did you slide it in further than the depth mark you made? Is this why you were able to slide it down to the black line you made?
Yes. You slide the valve on further than it's final spot at first, then release it and slide it onto the other part of the pipe. That's why you need both marks so you know both ends are in the correct spot.
v good question: I did not even realize that I had missed/ not understood this crucial concept
The exact video i was looking for, TY!!
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Fantastic video - thanks!
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
How did you know to cut off 2 in of the pipe? Is this standard for shark bites?
Each size of SharkBite tells you how much to cut off. For a 1/2" pipe this valve said 2 inches. Check the package and it will tell you the correct amount of pipe to cut out.
I don’t see anything about that on the tag
The 2" is for the slip joint fittings - the fittings designed to patch into existing pipes, not for the regular fittings. The slip fittings are all longer - like this one.
So I'm assuming the length to cut would be slightly more on 3/4" pipe? At any rate, it'll give me the proper length on the packaging.
What grit is the sandpaper you use?
It is special plumbers sanding cloth, also known as emery cloth. I don't think it lists a grit. The technical specialist I spoke with at SharkBite said specifically to not use regular sandpaper as it removes too much material. Hope that helps.
@ ok thanks.
If I don’t have a deburring tool, what is the depth or lengths of the marks you’re making on the pipes.
The SharkBite package or website may list this information for each size of pipe but I highly recommend you get the deburring and depth tool. Not deburring caused me many leaks in the past.
Great presentation. I would suggest for the first timers Dont do both at once. Do one at a time and test, have a spare on hand in case you manage to screw it up. It will not go to waste and you can return if you dont need it.
What do you do if you find a leak?
Thanks! Doing the pipes one at a time is a good idea if you are new to plumbing. If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ruclips.net/video/da5bEmEkVGI/видео.html. Hope that helps.
can that ball valve be permanently slightly closed to reduce volume of water ?
I have partially opened the valve to restrict the flow when testing after a repair so I think you could leave it partially open if you didn’t want the full water flow.
Why not use a compression fitting valve? The SharkBite type O rings do not have any long term reliability studies yet.
Very useful info
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Very informative video, Thanks
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Dont waste your time scraping the copper. all is needed is to have straight burless ends. My whole house is put together with sharkbites. Never have one leak and not once have I ever clean the copper. Scraching the copper the way done in video is going to cause leaks over time
Do:
Ensure the materials are clean, undamaged and don’t have any foreign objects in them or on them. If the pipe just has dirt or debris on it, you can simply wipe it off with a wet cloth.
If working with copper pipe that has old solder on it, use fine sandpaper like 180 grit to remove it. Be extra careful not to scratch the pipe.
Check that the pipe is round and free from other scratches, cuts or gouges.
Look to make sure there are no burrs or sharp sections on the cut end. The SharkBite deburr & gauge tool allows you to quickly deburr copper pipe with a simple rotation of the tool once the pipe is inserted.
Don't:
Forget to clean or deburr piping. Old solder, debris, glue and aging pipe can damage the o-ring in the SharkBite fitting, which keeps it from forming a secure connection.
Shine up copper with sandpaper or emery cloth like you would if you were going to solder. This can leave superficial scratches on the pipe that could cause a leak between the o-ring and the outer surface of the pipe.
excellent
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
So if the joint did leak, what would you do to stop the leak?
If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ruclips.net/video/da5bEmEkVGI/видео.html. Hope that helps.
Unless I missed it you never explained why you removed 2 inches of the copper pipe instead of 3 inches or whatever length. Why 2 inches?
The Sharkbite fitting I used specifies the length on the package and on their website. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
good presentation, likely your descriptions as you did it. only thing I didn't like is speeding up the 2nd valve. i wanted to see it done again and hear a second time what you were saying. no reason to speed that up.
You do realize you can just rewatch the first one, right?
Not supposed to use sandpaper according to Shark Bit.
I checked with an expert in the SharkBite tech support department regarding sandpaper. The issue is with using it too much or too hard and changing the shape or diameter of the pipe so that the O-ring does not work properly. What I showed, using the proper plumber sandpaper and using it to just clean up the pipe with wiping down afterwards is OK. It is also key to use the deburring tool every time. I hope that helps.
@@upgradeyourhomediy Thanks, I was thinking about only using a finer grade sandpaper. Thanks for responding.
@@Scissorman Scotchbrite pad type materials also work well - they make different grades for metals.
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