How to set up and use the Atomstack R1 Pro Rotary Kit
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- @atomstack.official sent out the new Rotary R1 Pro kit which includes both a chuck style rotary as well as a roller rotary along with many accessories that make them work with both Atomstack lasers as well as third party lasers. In this video I'll show you the features of this kit as well as walk through setting each up in lightburn and show each one doing some engraves.
To find out more about this rotary kit check out the Atomstack website and links below.
Use code VINTAURI on your order from the Atomstack website to get 5% off!
Atomstack R1 Pro Rotary - www.atomstack.com/collections...
Atomstack Maker A30 Pro diode Laser - www.atomstack.com/products/at...
Atomstack AC1 Camera - www.atomstack.com/collections...
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Развлечения
Great video. The white cable is also for the ATEZR L2 series.
Thanks for the info! Each laser's stepper controller can be different with the pin out so It's hard to test every laser for compatibility.
Outstanding! Now I know that I NEED to purchase that accessory. Very useful and entertaining.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great explanation of how those things work. Appreciate your tutorial!
Glad it was helpful!
Great review. Thank you!
Pretty clear explanation but there is something that was overlooked for some reason, the base of the rotary isn't the same width on both ends so you can't line up like that. The Centerline is off by .078" (2mm) on the narrow end. You can easily just move the laser forward by making exact movements by that amount. I don't think it's healthy for the machine to be moving axis while it's on or even plugged in to the board. The actual measurements of that base on the big end is 3.65" ( 92.71mm) and 3.11" (79mm) on the narrower end, you would move half that amount for the centerline to be correct. You could just line up on one section or the other since they aren't the same width. Have fun nice people.
I used the base to make sure it was parallel to the gantry not centered. I used the longer section which is straight and parallel enough for the alignment for a one-off item. If you do this often, it would make sense to create a fixture which you cut a mount to drop the rotary in exactly parallel to the laser each time, but that is a more advanced thing and this was aimed at just getting people started with the rotary. Thanks for watching!
@@Vintauri Yes, I didn't really mean centerline exactly but you would take half of the dimension difference for the 2mm it would be off (not parallel to the X axis. Just making sure some of the newbies understand this.
Nice review!
Thanks! I'm glad its useful!
@Bobby3Hat
I'm real new to Laser's but got to say your video was very informative! Just wonder will the Atomstack R1 Pro Rotary Kit work with my Longer Ray5 10w engraver? Are they compatible?
Que parametros usate para el grabado del vaso metalico ?
Finally, that 160 mm/rotation fixed my squashed image!!
I'm glad to hear this was helpful!
reason i am back here watching the video again as my images are squished ;-) and my default is 360 not 160.
Great video keep up the great work. Loved the engraved pen do you have a link for that item? Thanks
I believe the pens I used in this video were from here: amzn.to/41Pwm3i
does it work with sculpfun Pro Max S30 and the Ultra33 connectors?
Hey can I get a picture of how the ends look I was going to try to hook it on a Chinese CO2 also wondering how long the cord is please?
Are you able to engrave full wraps on Stanley style cups? I was wondering that being there's a dip in the middle and if it would be out of focus or if it would work for that style of tumblers?
I have not played with the stanley cups or full wraps as I do more with woodworking projects and just the occasional metal tumbler. You can have some variation in depth and still be reasonably in focus but more than about 3-4mm difference and you'll have issues.
I lightly marked my tape (normal tape) @ 1800mm/20% and it penetrated and marked the metal!
Do you have a link to the marking spray? Thanks for the very informative video. I have the Atezr version rotary kit I got with my V35. Looks exactly the same.
Here you go! amzn.to/45gMqOu The Atzer and the Atomstack rotary are very similar. I'll hopefully be able to compare them both shortly.
you'd be surprised what you can do with the roller rotary, back when I bought mine that was all they had. I've done mugs with handles, cut 4 circles same OD (big enough for handle to clear) and 2 of those with an inner circle to fit the mug, with some double tape attached to ends of mug, then had to adjust the y ratio (I'm using lasergrbl) to account for the difference in that OD and the diameter of the mug, bit of work but got some good results. Not sure how that spray compares to tempura paint but that is what I use with an air brush or small air sprayer to apply
and that is on an old A5pro btw, and just ordered the x20
I've done that myself when is so much work to make them jigs just perfect get everything leveled exactly I think this will save some headaches and wasted cups down the road and a lot of time making jigs haha
For longer items can you plug the rotary in the x axis instead of the y??
Not while using Lightburn and the stock wiring, you can only set the rotary to the Y, Z, or A axis.
Dammit I got the extention rails for the x7pro that make the y axis 850mm.
Thanks for a concise review. NOW for the $64,000 dollar question - You said the "black" connection wire is for third party lasers, have you used this rotary specifically with a Longer B1 model? ANY info you care to share will be most appreciated. Thanks.. Hank P.S. One more question please. What is the distance from the chuck center to the bottom frame? My "typical" coffee mug has a diameter of ~ 3.5 inches with a handle protruding ~ 1.75 inches. That would require about a clearance of about 3.5 inches for a mug's handle to clear for a full rotation. BUT, as a work-a-round, If you were to angle the chuck/coffee mug upward a bit, then, the handle would clear and the left side of the rotary would need to be raised to make the mug level. Anyway I hope you follow the plan to attain a full rotation of a mug with handle if/when the chuck head is angled upward.... Thanks for your reply..
Atomstack Maker R1 rotary compatible with xtool ?
Yes, you should be able to use the white plug cable that comes with the R1 on the xTool D1 series of lasers and are using lightburn to set the parameters for the rotary. For others like the F1, S1 and P2 it might work if you can find an adaptor cable and are using lightburn.
I purchased after your review. I attached to my atezr p20 plus but couldn’t get it to work. I followed your video settings exactly. I made a 1 inch square but my Y didn’t move. X moved but was moving nearly the length of my bed. After several/many attempts failing, swapping cables, I connected my machine back and now the Y doesn’t move at all. It makes a grinding sound when it starts up. When I move the gantry it is very hard to move powered or not. I disconnected the cable and noticed it moves freely. I checked for obstructions/debris checked the belts everything worked fine prior. Any idea what I did to cause this? I unstalled the laser and reinstalled but nothing has corrected user error! I have a ticket with support but they are oof til Monday. Any help is appreciated
If the gantry is hard to move without any power to the machine I think you are right in looking for a mechanical issue. Once that is moving freely, check all the connectors to see if a pin has come loose in the ends. If one of those is not making good contact then it will mess up the operation of the stepper motors.
@@Vintauri thanks for the reply. I’ve checked everything I can think of. I’m fairly new to this. I did check the pins for missing or bent ones. Couldn’t find anything wrong. I’m not sure how to check for a loose one? Do I just look to see if it wiggles? Old ladies shouldn’t say wiggles lol
@@meluv2cut so as you push them together check the plastic housings to see if a wire looks like it’s being pushed back out. That would be the first sign. If the wire itself is broke that will be harder to detect.
@@Vintauri thanks again. I checked and everything seems to be ok. If it’s broken wire I’ll have to order a new one when support gets back with me. I also bought your replacement lenses and service was fantastic. Delivery was quick too. Thanks for everything I really appreciate your help. I’ll be watching tonight.
@@meluv2cut I’m happy to help where I can. Hopefully support can help identify where the issue is and get you back to lasering!
I just tried painters tape on glass and it didnt work ;-(
Did it mark through to the glass or did it not mark the tape in the tests? Too much power will mark glass as the tape will act as a binder.
@@Vintauri The glass didnt mark, it burnt through the tape leaving a glue residue. I even filled the glass with paper to stop the light bouncing. It works using paint though.
👍👌
I have never liked Atomstack. My dislike goes back to when they would advertise their laser to reflect the power consumption rather than the actual laser power. You had some good ideas though and thank you for your demo.
I agree on the frustration on the advertised power ratings being misleading. I feel that most reputable companies have been changing their methods and focusing on the optical output power that really matters now. But it's something to keep a careful eye on.
I'm interested in how you positioned the stand at the front left of the control panel.
I have an Atomstack x7 and the control panel is attached to it - I couldn't put my foot down. I unscrewed the control panel and screwed it back to the table where everything is written on it.
I clamped it to the wrap around foot that is just around the left corner from the control box.
Circumference = Diameter * π - more accurate and easier than with the tape measure
Either measurement will work, I just try to show how to use the items they send with it for people starting out.
Yes it is, I just checked a few things with the supplied measuring tape vs measuring diameter with calipers x 3.14 (pi) it's .100" (2.54mm) different, that's quite a difference. Actually it's much easier anyway to just measure the diameter.