2012 Gen 1 Chevrolet Volt clicking sound at front wheel caused by front drive shaft nut replacement. Video shows replacement process and includes torque specs and part numbers.
I'm impressed by your safety measures and your dedication to the torque specs... OK, the protractor for the 45 degree angle might be a LITTLE overkill... You're the kind of person I'd want working on my car....thanks for the great video.....
Best video ever in instruction and I watch A LOT of videos. You covered factory suggested jack points, torque specs, sequence of operation, good instructions for the task, factory part #'s for the parts.....Doesn't get any better than this. I hope whatever it is you do in life, you excel, having these good habits.
Thx for video. Picked up last month single owned 2013 volt w 168k miles and had this clicking sound. Tightened the axle nut today like you said and noise gone. Thx again
Hi,thanks for clear video... I have same problem now and İf I keep going drive with this click noise what can be problem future ? I hope it's not a big problem for car
This is the same issue tesla has - regen & forward torque work the spline that loostens the nut. They use a ramp washer to keep the nut from loostening, but the spline still clicks... they just add lube to keep it quiet. Has noone figured out how to put a spline in here that doesn't chuck & make noise?
Great info, fellow 2015 Volt owner here. Thanks for the jack point info and showing the graphics. How do you like the Yokohama Avid tires you have on it?
Hi, excuse my ignorance but can't you just tighten the old nut? I just don't see how a nut could fail in that way. I have the same problem on my Opel Ampera and I taught it was the gear box. I can assure you that I am very happy to know it is just a simple problem like that.
What’s the consensus on the best Chevy Volt forum? I’ve got a mystery creak in the rear of my 2nd gen whenever the suspension articulates. Dealer was no help, so I’ll have a go myself... with a little help from the community.
I responded to a similar comment because the answer is "not really." I ended up replacing the bearing hub and the washer because I had an error code for the wheel speed sensor. I think my issue was a combination of a loose nut and broken washer because it completely went away once I replaced the washer.
Yes it solved the clicking problem but a few weeks later I got a speed sensor error code for that wheel. I ended up replacing the bearing hub and it turns out that the washer on the CV behind the bearing was the issue. A small piece of it broke off and interfered with the sensor. So replacing that washer is definitely the way to go but it’s a much more complicated fix than what I showed. I’ll post that video soon. I just used my breaker bar and a carpenter’s angle finder to figure out how far to reverse to back it off 45 degrees but really you could probably eye it up.
Had same problem on my 12 ampera. I just tighten axle nuts and it solved the problem.i still dont know why we need to reverse 45 deg and then tighten again on 25 Nm???
Kevin Hickman Yes, it does say to replace it but you can’t get to it without removing the hub bearing, so I decided not to at that time. In the section describing the hub bearing it says to replace that washer, the axel nut, and all of the hub bearing mounting bolts.
I’m going to post another video soon where I replace the bearing hub and the washer because I had an error code for the wheel speed sensor. I think my issue was a combination of a loose nut and broken washer.
I'm impressed by your safety measures and your dedication to the torque specs... OK, the protractor for the 45 degree angle might be a LITTLE overkill... You're the kind of person I'd want working on my car....thanks for the great video.....
I WAS COMING HERE TO SAY THE EXACT SAME THING LOL!!!😆
Above and Beyond.
Phenomenal work.
Perfect video.
Best video ever in instruction and I watch A LOT of videos. You covered factory suggested jack points, torque specs, sequence of operation, good instructions for the task, factory part #'s for the parts.....Doesn't get any better than this. I hope whatever it is you do in life, you excel, having these good habits.
Hey thank you so much! Same to you!
Thanks for making a clear video with all the needed tips and steps. My Volt is now click-less now. Very good video sir.
Thx for video. Picked up last month single owned 2013 volt w 168k miles and had this clicking sound. Tightened the axle nut today like you said and noise gone. Thx again
Good instruction and right amount of detail. I would torque those lug nuts once more after 5 minutes just to be sure.
Thank you for the video, was exactly what I need it!
Great job 👍
Really good video, I replaced exactly the same way but I added the washer, no more clicks.... Thank you for the video.
Washer? What washer is that?
@@bobd. I saw it in some dude's part 2 video
KEEP IT UP WITH THE VVVVVOLT TIPS!!! IREALLY APPRECIATE THEM!!!! SUBSCRIBED BTW
Thanks...very nice video!
Hi,thanks for clear video... I have same problem now and İf I keep going drive with this click noise what can be problem future ? I hope it's not a big problem for car
This is the same issue tesla has - regen & forward torque work the spline that loostens the nut. They use a ramp washer to keep the nut from loostening, but the spline still clicks... they just add lube to keep it quiet. Has noone figured out how to put a spline in here that doesn't chuck & make noise?
Great info, fellow 2015 Volt owner here. Thanks for the jack point info and showing the graphics. How do you like the Yokohama Avid tires you have on it?
markaruski Thanks! Those tires work well for me. I beat them up driving around the streets of South Philly too.
Hi, excuse my ignorance but can't you just tighten the old nut? I just don't see how a nut could fail in that way.
I have the same problem on my Opel Ampera and I taught it was the gear box. I can assure you that I am very happy to know it is just a simple problem like that.
What’s the consensus on the best Chevy Volt forum? I’ve got a mystery creak in the rear of my 2nd gen whenever the suspension articulates. Dealer was no help, so I’ll have a go myself... with a little help from the community.
Spray the rear trailing arm bushings with silicone spray, soak them. Specifically the big bushings where the trailing arm mounts to the chassis.
Is it enough to install just a nut in order to avoid the noise ? bicouse I was reading the issue is with the washers on the front driveshafts.
I responded to a similar comment because the answer is "not really." I ended up replacing the bearing hub and the washer because I had an error code for the wheel speed sensor. I think my issue was a combination of a loose nut and broken washer because it completely went away once I replaced the washer.
I posted a video of that process too.
hi so did this solve the clicking sound or not? why do you need to reverse 45 deg. then tghten again (second pass)??
Yes it solved the clicking problem but a few weeks later I got a speed sensor error code for that wheel. I ended up replacing the bearing hub and it turns out that the washer on the CV behind the bearing was the issue. A small piece of it broke off and interfered with the sensor. So replacing that washer is definitely the way to go but it’s a much more complicated fix than what I showed. I’ll post that video soon. I just used my breaker bar and a carpenter’s angle finder to figure out how far to reverse to back it off 45 degrees but really you could probably eye it up.
Had same problem on my 12 ampera. I just tighten axle nuts and it solved the problem.i still dont know why we need to reverse 45 deg and then tighten again on 25 Nm???
did the service manual say anything about replacing the washer on the spindle?
Kevin Hickman Yes, it does say to replace it but you can’t get to it without removing the hub bearing, so I decided not to at that time. In the section describing the hub bearing it says to replace that washer, the axel nut, and all of the hub bearing mounting bolts.
I’m going to post another video soon where I replace the bearing hub and the washer because I had an error code for the wheel speed sensor. I think my issue was a combination of a loose nut and broken washer.