Must compliment your editing. Cutting the minutia, and narrating even the simplest task, teflon tape, is super helpful. Keep them short and sweet. The one thing that kills me when watching a vid is long winded super long vids , YOU get to the point and are real about it. Thanks.
A fixture adapted to a fixture. Pure Genius and I’m not kidding. The inadequacy of my ability to do anything meaningful is self evident. I’m not even a boater, but I’m fascinated how you pull everything together and the very through step by step instructions.😀
Hard to say what's more fun.Starting a new project or playing with all the new tools/toys it takes to finish the project! Nice addition to the line up Stu!!
That wet blasting is fascinating - I learned something else today thanks to your project Stu. Gotta say as well I am very impressed with how much consideration you are giving to the impact of your work on the neighbours, environment, etc and make choices accordingly. Having lived through the noise and mess of having a neighbour take three years to build a house part time - those impacted I'm sure appreciate the good manners of a guy like you!
Here up in the Seattle area. Been following Stu for a couple of years as well. He is very entertaining to watch but very articulate which a must on "how to" videos. Being a boat owner myself watching his videos has inspired me to keep going with my RUclips channel
Another brilliant instalment Stu. I think problem solving is such a satisfying pastime, particularly when you can see the fruits of your labour. I'm waiting, almost patiently, these days for the next episode...........
Exactly. I assumed by the time I got to the comments someone would have already presented the obvious solution, which is dilute. Clearly adding water to the chemical isn't an issue so this is pretty straightforward.
quick silly tip . When you're applying PTFE tape flip the roll over . That way you can control the tension as it unwinds from the spool onto the fitting. The way you did it is as it unwinds from tape spool which has a bigger dia than the fitting and there fore is always slack. Try it you'll see what i mean . Really enjoying the steel boat series Cheers
That seemed to work so well, I'm wondering if you need to do so much with the needle gun? You should try that on some areas that aren't under the water and you could probably get by without needling the entire hull!
I'll be interested to see how much paint it can take off, but once again the needle gun makes cleaning the paint chips up really easy while having fine paint dust in the wet garnet it much harder to contain.
@@DangarMarine Yeah, that's right. You've kinda got a catch 22 there. From what you showed in this video, that thing should eat right through the paint!
That came out really good Stu. We started with the exact same set up with our blaster on Brupeg. We found the higher the air pressure the less garnet you use per sq meter as the force of air allows high abrasive action than just firing sand at the steel. We also us the same pressure pot as you and have found they do block up easy if any rubbish gets in and once you are down to about 29% left thin the pot it doesn’t flow through. Damien-Project Brupeg
Hey Damien. Interesting to hear that the higher pressure uses less garnet, that's a great tip. I think the pot probably was around a quarter full so I'll top it up and see if it starts flowing again. I finished that door using the venturi pipe and it used about two bags in the end which isn't much cheaper than running it down the road to our local sandblaster.
I have the same kit as you. I found that when I stop the pressurised water what happens, when the sand feeds in beneath the nozzle, is the water in the nozzle leaks back into the abrasive tube then clogs the end and you have jiggle the end to unblock it. I fixed this by tying the feed tube along the top of the pressure wand with the sand feed dropping down. Water then can't get back into the tube unless you drop the wand vertically.
Have a look into crushed glass its very sharp and cheap to buy if ur not reusing to many times as it degrades quicker than garnet but for ur purpose probably perfect and quick also make sure u ground ur blaster and what ur blasting cause u will get static shocks just a matter of when
clamp a section chain to the hose near the pickup and let it drag on the ground; (automotive plants do that to some of their sensitive metal parts carts to reduce static charges) otherwise if big issue run a wire on the outside of hose, strip off both ends clamp one end to pressure gun pipe, the other to the pick up/sandblast tank to have the same potential. I used to have to ground clamp mobile tanks that were charged with air through a silicone hose and the tanks would charge like a capacitor, because the wheels isolated it from the floor/ground.
I agree on cutting the pressure pot out. I sold mind because it was to fiddly. often getting clogged. I had a good feeling on how much to open the valves towards the end to get it running consistent but still found it would clog every so often if you were idle for to long. id like to try the wet blasting seems all around better.
Somebody else mentioned that playing with the valves would give a better result. Unfortunately the instructions give no indication on a procedure for tuning it so I guess it's all trial and error!
@@DangarMarine yes trial and error, its been to long to remember exactly what I had done. if I had a suggestion, although the valve on the wand is a good idea, if you close that one, I would take a strong guess that the feed line downstream will clog fast. I believe I kept the gun open and closed the bottom of the pot to avoid clogs, this was very annoying but saved pulling the lines to let the garnet out.
This is my exact setup - including the sandblaster ! Make sure your abrasive media is absolutely dry - or it will clog up inside the sandblaster hopper.
Dangar Marine - I’ve restored a few old highly valued vehicles. (Sorry my boats are fiberglass). Used everything from dry ice blasting on a rotisserie to glass media on small unicorn parts in a cabinet. IMO - use the HP washer / garnet and a 4 inch angle grinder yourself. Stop after a couple hours, clean surface with degreaser, dry with heat gun or torch, spray freshly stripped metal with a catalyzed 2 part epoxy primer - repeat.
I've sand blasted for some time but this is less hassle. My sand blast is like a cone I could put up so it could be both aspirated and through depression get to the pressure washer gun. Will definitely try that. Great job and explanation
Look here young fella - 'dingo'. I'm a fat, old, ugly and English so please perhaps the occasional 'Pom'. We had a shot blaster at work, it was a complete room lined with 6mm IT100 armour plate. It had holes blasted in it over the years. You are very professional, not only in your work but in your video presentations. A real pleasure to watch. Thanks.
Keep it up. Doing a cracking good job. Watched all your vids in one sitting. I love your get it done attitude. Your willingness to drop cash on the tools when necessary. Musta been fricking hot in the engine space. I’ve done dry docks of ships as a deck officer in merchant navy and know it’s a bugger in tanks in the heat., an Aussie summer!! Your an marine athlete.
@@DangarMarine my missus said it was a little creepy that i had hunted down the location. I kind of had to agree with her. We both also agreed that it would freak you out if a total stranger turned up out of the blue. Ahh. Social media.
Thanks for posting your experiment! I am trying the same thing for blasting a pool. Same sandblasting gun at 4200psi and four gals/min. I occasionally had a blockage in the feed line, so I replaced it with lower friction, longer irrigation tubing. Also found that joints or valves create a place for coarse silica sand to build up. I built a sealed container and fed air from an HPLV paint sprayer unit directly into the air feed pipe on the sandblaster pickup. The idea is that with a sealed drum, pressure will increase inside, while the airflow next to the sand pickup will slightly stir the sand, and most importantly, hold positive pressure in the long feed tubing. That part works very well, in that previously, I was getting moisture feeding back up the tubing and creating a clog. The latest test I did is with dried and screen-filtered recycled sand. Unfortunately, the sand is pretty beat up and has concrete dust mixed in, so the flow was not optimal, and the particles were too small and not sharp. Pros: the sealed container keeps the sand dry and keeps back-fed water out of the line, also on wheels, so it's easy to move around. I assume the air flowing out directly beside the steel pickup tube is helping because, with the washer gun off, there is still a powdery mist of particles shooting out of the blaster nozzle. Cons: I haven't found any yet, but I expect that the air may be less effective in stirring sand grains or too effective and reduce flow density with new silica sand. I will soon find out. Thanks again for posting your video!
You need one of those oscillating pressure washer nozzles. Will be a life saver when you're trying to use this to blast large areas to clean off paint.
Scrap packing crates make a good diy blasting cabinet. We made one from a big engine crate and when dry blasting we could recycle the media. Was madeonly for the time it took to get the bits from the dump! Everything came for free from the dump! Lights,household extractor fans,windows etc. It was big enough to get a motorbike frame in and doing side jobs it earned a bit of money- got to love that! Doing the side jobs covered my fuel costs so other than labour I got my blasting done for nothing! And we do like that cost!
The washer will only suck the detergent in with the low pressure tip on the sprayer. You may have to get a large tank or barrel and gravity feed water to the washer. you can then mix your solution in large quantity.
there are guys here that have wash rigs on trailers. They just have the tank next to the washer it sucks the water in with no problem. they have no other pumps. You could set the tank on the deck and gravity it to the pump. that would give you some head pressure if needed.
Not sure if anyone has suggested but here goes. Use a ubc tank or poly 55gal drum as your water source. Power washers don’t use much water and you can get your chlorid mix just right. I’ve tapped a spigot to the bottom of a ubc tank (what they use to ship liquids around) and keep in the back of a trailer so gravity forces water into the pump intake. With the gas power washer and this setup you’re good to go anywhere and use it. Good luck and thanks for the vids! Always look forward to the next one.
I'm pretty much planning to go this way, but I'm adding a 12V deck wash pump into the system as apparently these petrol Karcher washers don't handle being gravity fed very well.
Hi Stu. I’m really enjoying this series and your channel. Regarding the Chor-ID, I agree to dilute it to achieve the correct amount is used. I’ve seen this on a lot of American house washing You-Tube videos where they need to dilute the bleach to achieve the correct application percentage. Keep up the great work. Cheers. Jeff
Watched all your videos ( whatever you call them these days) ....love your passion and the informative nature of the videos......love the wet sand blaster.....keep em coming. I really look forward to the next episode.😁🇦🇺👍🏻
Hi Stew we used a washer with a Drill small hole in the middle of washer and then remove pump fitted from inlet placed between inlet hole then refit fitting for hose this restricting flow
This guy is a legend I wouldn't have the patience with all these little bibs and bobs to deal with. DIY is the self Imposed standard there I think but mate how much time is going under the bridge at the same time. I did sandblasting myself and I know these days environmental protection standards are a big pain in the groin.
It is certainly worth weighing up the balance between the cost of getting someone to do the work and the time of doing it yourself. As I am paying to have the boat on the hardstand there are definitely some jobs I will be outsourcing to pros.
I have that same blaster pot. I found it quickly gets "cloggy" and I get better results if I keep shaking the blast pot to keep the media flowing. So you may give that a try when pumping the 40psi of air through.
I have a less powerful Kaercher pressure washer that can draw water from a tank or fresh water pond rather than using the mains supply. I collect rain water in plastic barrels and drop the draw tube in, works great. You could pre mix the chemicals (Chlor rid) in the tank to the correct ratio too.
I think that is the way I am going to have to go as apparently the venturi suction doesn't work with a high pressure nozzle. It seems that the petrol units can't draw from a tank so I am going to experiment with an electric pump in line.
My karcher is a 3050 OH 3000 psi looks the same as yours except the gun- it can hook up to barrel water if i needed. Is yours this model? To stop flash rust rub lemon juice on the steel while still wet. It goes a greenish tinge but protects the steel and won't affect painting. Greetings from Wallaroo,S.A.
Had no idea that you could get a wet blast attachment for a power washer. It looks like it works good and will be kinder to your hands then the needle scaler. Glad to see the project progression Stu!
I have seen the guys that do the steel trawlers over here have like a giant funnel on a stand that they can tip a few sacks of grit into that then just feeds from the bottom into the gun/nozzle they keep the stand in the van so it stays dry and it saves unloading it
As usual Stu, a very detailed and useful video which was easy to watch. I sometimes feel that you try to set us up for replies (thread tape application for example) but that is also cool mate as then you are certain to stress a good point. Thanks for this video.
I really like watching your videos! It brings me back to the days I worked in local boatyards. I noticed that when you take uts and bolts apart you don't crack it tighter first! The idea I was taught is that compresses the junk in the threads. Usually the idea is to just "crack" it; move it the slightest amount, then re,move the nut/bolt Worked for me in the salty Northeast Atlantic! I would appreciate your ides/opinion on this!!!
Put the medium into a bucket, and put an orbital sander, in a sealed bag, in the bucket, plug it in, it will vibrate and help feed the sand. Also a thought, once I knew a guy that had a contract to pressure wash a cedar shake roof, there was no water close by and he was to wash it with a preservative mixed in. He set up two 45 gallon drums on their side with spigots teed into the pressure washer, in his truck bed and backed up to the building, you might be able to do that in order to get the right mix of chemical.
Watching that wet blasting I was thinking holy cow he isn't really going to do the entire hull like this is he. That would take a literal year to complete.
In one of your videos you mentioned phosphoric acid for rust. I've used Ospho, a solvent with phosphoric acid in it to prevent surface rust. It could be painted over because it also served as a primer coat.
Pretty certain that because wet blasting is dustless and therefore no free silica is in the air, that there is no need to go to the expense of buying garnet as you can just use dry sand. As long as the chromate and nitrate meet safe levels. There is a Safe Work Australia guidelines to abrasive blasting in PDF online. This is my understanding, I would be interested if anyone in the industry can clarify?
suggestion for the Teflon tape, you need to put the up side of the tape on the thread so that you can tighten the tape with the spool when putting it on the thread, if you get my drift. ...cool project Stu .thanks mate.
sand can compact fast in a cone as its being forced into the tube. I had a homemade system which was not much different from your retail just a bit more cone shaped. I used a small plastic x from a old Beatle trap with holes drilled in it after binding was a problem. that worked ok if I gave it a bit of a tip or kick when it bound up but a small cat ball worked better for some reason to keep the sand from binding up at the cone without stopping sand movement.
Awesome video, I have the same pressure sand blaster, and I never thought to use a water blasting set up, I will definitely try the water blasting on my next project, it seems much easier and way more safe for my lungs without all that dust 👍🏼
That was a surprisingly simple blasting setup for small scale work. Interesting. BTW I think you should tidy the lounge before you have visitors over. Working on boats is a messy job but you've got maintain standards!
I went back several times to look at the comparison between the ventury and pressurized pot medium feed and it certainly looks like the pressurized feed works a lot faster and would probably work even faster if you increased the pressure in the blasting tank.
I rigged up a simple gravity feed and it worked good. Was only my media in a hopper on top of my steps,about nine feet up. If it blocked then a tap on the steps sorted things out. Simple but worked !
I've used that sand blast tank here in UK and with salt and struggled using it , think our compressor was underpowered! Looks like you've cracked it though for blasting the hull
I wonder if part of the reason that using the sandblaster to feed abrasive didn't work better is the shutoff valve. Since your fittings go inside the hose it's going to restrict the flow a bit. Probably not a huge amount, but perhaps enough to make it equal to the suction method. But if the simple system works, why add complexity. By the way, do you have a cabnet sandblaster for the small stuff? The small ones can be had pretty cheap (or built pretty easy) and use a shop vac for a dust collector.
Just dilute the chlorine 5:1. As I wrote this you said that. 😂 Edit - loving this series by the way. I don't own or intend on owning a steel boat any time soon but really enjoy watching people restore old vehicles. Thanks for taking the time to film and share it with us.
Not on that set up but there are some available that are similar except you put a standard pressure washer tip of your choice after the sand pick up Venturi
You've put together a close clone of my original system. I no longer use the 10 gallon sandblaster but use a large plastic garbage bin in which I have installed 12mm T piece with a series of 3mm holes drilled on the underside of the T crosspiece, which has.its ends capped. The compressor is hooked up to the stem of the T. I then use the supplied induction system, including the twin tube feeder, The T piece is zip tied to 3 reo-steel supports and the feeder tube also zip tied so that it is picking up medium under the T bar. I now use sieved sand because; a) I can get it for free, b)with wet blasting you do not have the same health issues as dry blasting, and c) if you are not recovering your media garnet can get very expensive when doing large surface areas. Since the biggest job I have ever done is the rear of a 3 metre grader blade I can get away running a smaller compressor at about 30/35 psi. My set-up is far from original and was shown to me by Canadian Dan about 40 years ago, though feeding a dry blaster. A 120 litre bin will give you enough time to want a smoko by the time it needs refilling. Thanks for taking the time to put your efforts on You Tube, your work makes my leisure quite pleasurable.
@@DangarMarine That's precisely it. I guess that you could use almost any shape, ie circular or V you just want to fluidise the medium as it both promotes better flow and actually uses less media when working properly. It also helps to put a lid on the bin as "sand burps" can have you vacuuming the stuff up before its been through the blaster.
Not sure if this comment has been added, but the venturi pickup on pressure washers is usually a high volume low pressure tip on the wand. The pressure you need at the tip with your setup might not have a low enough pressure at the chemical venturi. If it doesn't maybe use one of those 1 gallon round up pumps. Rinse all the garnet off then have your mixture in one of those little pumps. Also if it works then use a 5:1 or 4:1 ratio in a bucket of bleach for the pressure washer venturi to pickup. If the pressure washer is 20:1 it'll use about 1 gallon per every 10 min of blasting.
Yes, I think the back pressure of the high pressure nozzle will be a problem. The Chlor-Rid needs to be sprayed under pressure so I'll go to picking up from a tank.
Thanks Mark, can't wait to get that door installed but I'm feeling a bit guilty about it as it is fun to make but not really on the critical path towards getting the hull back in the water.
I dilute CT18 when using the Karcher to wash the car. It works a treat. Great video as usual. I'm restoring a 1970 LC Torana so I'm very interested to see how you go with the wet blasting. I've also got a tinny and half cabin in the pipeline for restoration, so I might see you on the Hawkesbury one day.
I thought that using the sand blaster seemed to be cleaning the metal a bit quicker than when the pickup was placed straight into the garnet bag. Maybe you were just moving the hose a bit quicker?
Watching the video back I did too. I didn't notice it so much at the time but I think it was quicker with a bit of air pressure behind it. I'll see if I can figure out what happened with the sand blaster and keep using it for a while. That unit is also a good dry place to store the garnet compared to a bag that has been opened.
@@DangarMarine It was cleaning a bit quicker, but it seemed like a lot more media was being wasted, judging by the thick brown accumulating on the steel you were washing.
That's obviously the ticket! Like Wally said below, i didnt know it was that easy to set up and i've got exactly the same washer. I'm itchin to see how that works on the hull and i'm guessin there's a product you can put on the hull after the wash to keep it semi protected until paint? That hull job is sure looking a bit less daunting now! Thanks again!!
Yes, the Chlor-Rid and Hold-Blast I have will give the metal about three days protection before painting. The sooner the better but it is nice to know you can do something to by yourself time to do some welding or whatever before getting the primer on.
Glad to know wet blasting works with a portable pressure washer. Now I know how I'm going to blast my boat trailer. Thanks great video.
Would be great for fixing up the rust on a boat trailer.
Johns suggestion on diluting the mix sounds like a winner!
Must compliment your editing. Cutting the minutia, and narrating even the simplest task, teflon tape, is super helpful. Keep them short and sweet. The one thing that kills me when watching a vid is long winded super long vids , YOU get to the point and are real about it. Thanks.
Yep. I’ll second that. Much enjoyed Stu.
A fixture adapted to a fixture. Pure Genius and I’m not kidding. The inadequacy of my ability to do anything meaningful is self evident.
I’m not even a boater, but I’m fascinated how you pull everything together and the very through step by step instructions.😀
Glad you're enjoying the vids. I'm really looking forward to everything going back together now.
I didn't know there was a wet blasting kit for pressure washers. Excellent! Thanks, I'm going to check it out.
I didn't until just recently either. Very handy!
Hard to say what's more fun.Starting a new project or playing with all the new tools/toys it takes to finish the project! Nice addition to the line up Stu!!
I know what you are saying. I think this one is going to get a bit of use on this project.
That wet blasting is fascinating - I learned something else today thanks to your project Stu. Gotta say as well I am very impressed with how much consideration you are giving to the impact of your work on the neighbours, environment, etc and make choices accordingly. Having lived through the noise and mess of having a neighbour take three years to build a house part time - those impacted I'm sure appreciate the good manners of a guy like you!
The green machine is definitely getting jealous with all this love you are giving to the trawler
It is in serious need of some work too before it sinks! :O
Mate, I never clicked so fast on a video. I really am enjoying this series. Thank you from Pennsylvania USofA!
Me too, I love how he goes through everything. So cool
Followed Stu for a cpl yrs. He's great. Helped me out a ton. Also from PA neighbor.
Agreed. This series is very addicting and I don't even know why. lol. Thanks again DangarStu!
Here up in the Seattle area. Been following Stu for a couple of years as well. He is very entertaining to watch but very articulate which a must on "how to" videos. Being a boat owner myself watching his videos has inspired me to keep going with my RUclips channel
I'm in pa too.
Another brilliant instalment Stu. I think problem solving is such a satisfying pastime, particularly when you can see the fruits of your labour. I'm waiting, almost patiently, these days for the next episode...........
G’day Stu thanks for the differences between the two sand blasting techniques and explaining how to use them, very interesting thanks again John
You're welcome John. :)
Exactly. I assumed by the time I got to the comments someone would have already presented the obvious solution, which is dilute. Clearly adding water to the chemical isn't an issue so this is pretty straightforward.
Good tips on wet blasting! Can’t Waite to start blasting the hull. Love the glove chair!!! Nostalgic!
Glad you tried both methods, I've been interested in trying wet blasting, and nice to know that the kit works straight away.
I'm glad I tried it too, I pleasantly surprised.
I use a small blast cabinet for the bits and hire a blast pot for big items but never thought of wet blasting, great idea Stu
quick silly tip . When you're applying PTFE tape flip the roll over . That way you can control the tension as it unwinds from the spool onto the fitting. The way you did it is as it unwinds from tape spool which has a bigger dia than the fitting and there fore is always slack. Try it you'll see what i mean . Really enjoying the steel boat series Cheers
Good tip!
Excellent pro-tip for us homeowners.
Not sure I understood, can you explain?
@@ImpostorModanica ruclips.net/video/3ssHYT6zUqo/видео.html
Works pretty good. When I did my boat trailer I put a big tarp on the ground to let it dry for a day or two so I could reclaim the medium.
Chris Cameron ll
Thanks Dangar Stu.....Learned so much from this video......this channel is great....keep it up matey
You're welcome mate, glad you like it!
Love the hand chair bro
That seemed to work so well, I'm wondering if you need to do so much with the needle gun? You should try that on some areas that aren't under the water and you could probably get by without needling the entire hull!
I'll be interested to see how much paint it can take off, but once again the needle gun makes cleaning the paint chips up really easy while having fine paint dust in the wet garnet it much harder to contain.
@@DangarMarine Yeah, that's right. You've kinda got a catch 22 there. From what you showed in this video, that thing should eat right through the paint!
That came out really good Stu. We started with the exact same set up with our blaster on Brupeg. We found the higher the air pressure the less garnet you use per sq meter as the force of air allows high abrasive action than just firing sand at the steel. We also us the same pressure pot as you and have found they do block up easy if any rubbish gets in and once you are down to about 29% left thin the pot it doesn’t flow through. Damien-Project Brupeg
Hey Damien. Interesting to hear that the higher pressure uses less garnet, that's a great tip. I think the pot probably was around a quarter full so I'll top it up and see if it starts flowing again. I finished that door using the venturi pipe and it used about two bags in the end which isn't much cheaper than running it down the road to our local sandblaster.
Hey mate. Just wanted to say thanks for going to the effort of making this video.
You’re welcome mate. :)
I have the same kit as you. I found that when I stop the pressurised water what happens, when the sand feeds in beneath the nozzle, is the water in the nozzle leaks back into the abrasive tube then clogs the end and you have jiggle the end to unblock it. I fixed this by tying the feed tube along the top of the pressure wand with the sand feed dropping down. Water then can't get back into the tube unless you drop the wand vertically.
Good tip, I'll give that a try.
Great plan, that is a problem, I did my chassis like that, banging the end to clear it
Have a look into crushed glass its very sharp and cheap to buy if ur not reusing to many times as it degrades quicker than garnet but for ur purpose probably perfect and quick also make sure u ground ur blaster and what ur blasting cause u will get static shocks just a matter of when
clamp a section chain to the hose near the pickup and let it drag on the ground; (automotive plants do that to some of their sensitive metal parts carts to reduce static charges) otherwise if big issue run a wire on the outside of hose, strip off both ends clamp one end to pressure gun pipe, the other to the pick up/sandblast tank to have the same potential. I used to have to ground clamp mobile tanks that were charged with air through a silicone hose and the tanks would charge like a capacitor, because the wheels isolated it from the floor/ground.
I didn't get any shocks but it's good to know it can happen. I'll set up the earth strap!
I agree on cutting the pressure pot out. I sold mind because it was to fiddly. often getting clogged. I had a good feeling on how much to open the valves towards the end to get it running consistent but still found it would clog every so often if you were idle for to long. id like to try the wet blasting seems all around better.
Somebody else mentioned that playing with the valves would give a better result. Unfortunately the instructions give no indication on a procedure for tuning it so I guess it's all trial and error!
@@DangarMarine yes trial and error, its been to long to remember exactly what I had done. if I had a suggestion, although the valve on the wand is a good idea, if you close that one, I would take a strong guess that the feed line downstream will clog fast. I believe I kept the gun open and closed the bottom of the pot to avoid clogs, this was very annoying but saved pulling the lines to let the garnet out.
This is my exact setup - including the sandblaster ! Make sure your abrasive media is absolutely dry - or it will clog up inside the sandblaster hopper.
I might put one of those Damp Rid moisture absorbers in it.
Dangar Marine - I’ve restored a few old highly valued vehicles. (Sorry my boats are fiberglass). Used everything from dry ice blasting on a rotisserie to glass media on small unicorn parts in a cabinet. IMO - use the HP washer / garnet and a 4 inch angle grinder yourself. Stop after a couple hours, clean surface with degreaser, dry with heat gun or torch, spray freshly stripped metal with a catalyzed 2 part epoxy primer - repeat.
do you mind sharing what kit it is?
I've sand blasted for some time but this is less hassle. My sand blast is like a cone I could put up so it could be both aspirated and through depression get to the pressure washer gun. Will definitely try that. Great job and explanation
Look here young fella - 'dingo'. I'm a fat, old, ugly and English so please perhaps the occasional 'Pom'. We had a shot blaster at work, it was a complete room lined with 6mm IT100 armour plate. It had holes blasted in it over the years. You are very professional, not only in your work but in your video presentations. A real pleasure to watch. Thanks.
Thanks mate, glad to hear you are enjoying the vids. :)
Trial and Error- you do a great service!
I love it, and keep following.
Thanks mate.
Keep it up. Doing a cracking good job. Watched all your vids in one sitting. I love your get it done attitude. Your willingness to drop cash on the tools when necessary. Musta been fricking hot in the engine space. I’ve done dry docks of ships as a deck officer in merchant navy and know it’s a bugger in tanks in the heat., an Aussie summer!! Your an marine athlete.
I drove past the other day and could hear blasting. I got excited.
And you didn't bring beer down the driveway?!?!?! ;)
@@DangarMarine my missus said it was a little creepy that i had hunted down the location. I kind of had to agree with her. We both also agreed that it would freak you out if a total stranger turned up out of the blue. Ahh. Social media.
Looking forward to you solving and starting this sandblasting process Stu .
Excellent series...
For the type of work your doing, I've used simple "Play sand" that costs next to NOTHING at any hardware store. Works great!
Play sand dust in the lungs is not something you want. Make absolutely sure you never blast that dry, silicosis is not fun.
Absolutely loving this thread
Thanks for posting your experiment! I am trying the same thing for blasting a pool. Same sandblasting gun at 4200psi and four gals/min.
I occasionally had a blockage in the feed line, so I replaced it with lower friction, longer irrigation tubing. Also found that joints or valves create a place for coarse silica sand to build up.
I built a sealed container and fed air from an HPLV paint sprayer unit directly into the air feed pipe on the sandblaster pickup.
The idea is that with a sealed drum, pressure will increase inside, while the airflow next to the sand pickup will slightly stir the sand, and most importantly, hold positive pressure in the long feed tubing.
That part works very well, in that previously, I was getting moisture feeding back up the tubing and creating a clog.
The latest test I did is with dried and screen-filtered recycled sand. Unfortunately, the sand is pretty beat up and has concrete dust mixed in, so the flow was not optimal, and the particles were too small and not sharp.
Pros: the sealed container keeps the sand dry and keeps back-fed water out of the line, also on wheels, so it's easy to move around. I assume the air flowing out directly beside the steel pickup tube is helping because, with the washer gun off, there is still a powdery mist of particles shooting out of the blaster nozzle.
Cons: I haven't found any yet, but I expect that the air may be less effective in stirring sand grains or too effective and reduce flow density with new silica sand. I will soon find out.
Thanks again for posting your video!
You need one of those oscillating pressure washer nozzles. Will be a life saver when you're trying to use this to blast large areas to clean off paint.
It would be interesting to experiment with some different nozzles.
@@DangarMarine go for it. We won't judge ;)
Scrap packing crates make a good diy blasting cabinet. We made one from a big engine crate and when dry blasting we could recycle the media. Was madeonly for the time it took to get the bits from the dump! Everything came for free from the dump! Lights,household extractor fans,windows etc. It was big enough to get a motorbike frame in and doing side jobs it earned a bit of money- got to love that! Doing the side jobs covered my fuel costs so other than labour I got my blasting done for nothing! And we do like that cost!
You certainly can't beat bringing some useful things home from the scrap yard. Always a satisfying day out!
Excellent video!
The washer will only suck the detergent in with the low pressure tip on the sprayer. You may have to get a large tank or barrel and gravity feed water to the washer. you can then mix your solution in large quantity.
yes, looks like I might need an electric pump from the tank too with this blaster.
there are guys here that have wash rigs on trailers. They just have the tank next to the washer it sucks the water in with no problem. they have no other pumps. You could set the tank on the deck and gravity it to the pump. that would give you some head pressure if needed.
Not sure if anyone has suggested but here goes. Use a ubc tank or poly 55gal drum as your water source. Power washers don’t use much water and you can get your chlorid mix just right. I’ve tapped a spigot to the bottom of a ubc tank (what they use to ship liquids around) and keep in the back of a trailer so gravity forces water into the pump intake. With the gas power washer and this setup you’re good to go anywhere and use it. Good luck and thanks for the vids! Always look forward to the next one.
I'm pretty much planning to go this way, but I'm adding a 12V deck wash pump into the system as apparently these petrol Karcher washers don't handle being gravity fed very well.
Hi Stu. I’m really enjoying this series and your channel. Regarding the Chor-ID, I agree to dilute it to achieve the correct amount is used. I’ve seen this on a lot of American house washing You-Tube videos where they need to dilute the bleach to achieve the correct application percentage. Keep up the great work. Cheers. Jeff
Watched all your videos ( whatever you call them these days) ....love your passion and the informative nature of the videos......love the wet sand blaster.....keep em coming. I really look forward to the next episode.😁🇦🇺👍🏻
I have a wet blast kit. Worked good. No dust.
Had to keep sand vibrated to maintain flow.
Yes, vibration and keeping it dry does seem to be key.
The chair you were sitting in is fab.
Good work Stu.
Hi Stew we used a washer with a Drill small hole in the middle of washer and then remove pump fitted from inlet placed between inlet hole then refit fitting for hose this restricting flow
That video was a blast !! 🇬🇧
@dangar try using welding tips in the line for the soap line. You can try different sizes and if they are too small you can drill them out to tune it.
This guy is a legend I wouldn't have the patience with all these little bibs and bobs to deal with. DIY is the self Imposed standard there I think but mate how much time is going under the bridge at the same time. I did sandblasting myself and I know these days environmental protection standards are a big pain in the groin.
It is certainly worth weighing up the balance between the cost of getting someone to do the work and the time of doing it yourself. As I am paying to have the boat on the hardstand there are definitely some jobs I will be outsourcing to pros.
Dilute the CL with water to get the correct 100:1
Came here to say this. It should be pretty much a straight forward dilution. 4 parts water and 1 part CL.
That's the best solution *
i yelled that at the screen...
Well, he said that himself right? 12:25
Zoe hasaas a
I have that same blaster pot. I found it quickly gets "cloggy" and I get better results if I keep shaking the blast pot to keep the media flowing. So you may give that a try when pumping the 40psi of air through.
I'll definitely try giving it a shake before pushing on next week.
I have a less powerful Kaercher pressure washer that can draw water from a tank or fresh water pond rather than using the mains supply. I collect rain water in plastic barrels and drop the draw tube in, works great. You could pre mix the chemicals (Chlor rid) in the tank to the correct ratio too.
I think that is the way I am going to have to go as apparently the venturi suction doesn't work with a high pressure nozzle. It seems that the petrol units can't draw from a tank so I am going to experiment with an electric pump in line.
My karcher is a 3050 OH 3000 psi looks the same as yours except the gun- it can hook up to barrel water if i needed. Is yours this model? To stop flash rust rub lemon juice on the steel while still wet. It goes a greenish tinge but protects the steel and won't affect painting. Greetings from Wallaroo,S.A.
Another great vid....his expertise is endless.
Had no idea that you could get a wet blast attachment for a power washer. It looks like it works good and will be kinder to your hands then the needle scaler. Glad to see the project progression Stu!
Move the Esky for icy cold beverages to within arm's reach of that very stylish chair.
chair fit for a king...needs some grapes and a jug of amber fluid for sure
I think I can make that happen. ;)
I really dig this series man . Can't wait to see it all done.
I have seen the guys that do the steel trawlers over here have like a giant funnel on a stand that they can tip a few sacks of grit into that then just feeds from the bottom into the gun/nozzle they keep the stand in the van so it stays dry and it saves unloading it
Sounds like a good way to go.
Keep it simple. The right move. Thanks.
As usual Stu, a very detailed and useful video which was easy to watch. I sometimes feel that you try to set us up for replies (thread tape application for example) but that is also cool mate as then you are certain to stress a good point. Thanks for this video.
I am enjoying watching your video! I am not a handy guy to have around as I am 81! But do enjoy learning new things! 😊
Great videos, I just found your channel and started from when you got the boat. Cant wait for the next video, keep up the great work.
Thanks mate, glad you're enjoying the vids. :)
hi try putting the medium or pot on a shaker table or make a shaker using elec motor it will keep the medium flowing had to do this myself years ago.
Yes, I think a shaker table would be good.
Nice demonstration. Worked well. Thanks
Thanks mate.
I really like watching your videos! It brings me back to the days I worked in local boatyards. I noticed that when you take uts and bolts apart you don't crack it tighter first! The idea I was taught is that compresses the junk in the threads. Usually the idea is to just "crack" it; move it the slightest amount, then re,move the nut/bolt Worked for me in the salty Northeast Atlantic! I would appreciate your ides/opinion on this!!!
Yes, that can be a good way to go if they are really stuck. If not I just take them straight off.
Put the medium into a bucket, and put an orbital sander, in a sealed bag, in the bucket, plug it in, it will vibrate and help feed the sand. Also a thought, once I knew a guy that had a contract to pressure wash a cedar shake roof, there was no water close by and he was to wash it with a preservative mixed in. He set up two 45 gallon drums on their side with spigots teed into the pressure washer, in his truck bed and backed up to the building, you might be able to do that in order to get the right mix of chemical.
Neat idea!
Good way to burn out your orbital, starving it of cooling air. Better to tape it to the lid of the container or something like that.
Awesome little kit, I had no idea you could buy it.
Watching that wet blasting I was thinking holy cow he isn't really going to do the entire hull like this is he. That would take a literal year to complete.
Beat video on diy sandblasting. Cheers 🍻
Enjoy your trawler videos!
In one of your videos you mentioned phosphoric acid for rust. I've used Ospho, a solvent with phosphoric acid in it to prevent surface rust. It could be painted over because it also served as a primer coat.
Ospho is good stuff.
Pretty certain that because wet blasting is dustless and therefore no free silica is in the air, that there is no need to go to the expense of buying garnet as you can just use dry sand. As long as the chromate and nitrate meet safe levels. There is a Safe Work Australia guidelines to abrasive blasting in PDF online. This is my understanding, I would be interested if anyone in the industry can clarify?
Cool, I'll check that out. Would certainly save some money.
Another great video with very useful information
suggestion for the Teflon tape, you need to put the up side of the tape on the thread so that you can tighten the tape with the spool when putting it on the thread, if you get my drift. ...cool project Stu .thanks mate.
Yes, I tend to use my finger as an idler pulley of sorts but I see what you are saying. :)
sand can compact fast in a cone as its being forced into the tube. I had a homemade system which was not much different from your retail just a bit more cone shaped. I used a small plastic x from a old Beatle trap with holes drilled in it after binding was a problem. that worked ok if I gave it a bit of a tip or kick when it bound up but a small cat ball worked better for some reason to keep the sand from binding up at the cone without stopping sand movement.
Interesting, I'll give that a try!
Wow your diy wet blaster works great! Thanks for the video.
Excellent DIY video. Thank you very much for explaining that very well
Awesome video, I have the same pressure sand blaster, and I never thought to use a water blasting set up, I will definitely try the water blasting on my next project, it seems much easier and way more safe for my lungs without all that dust 👍🏼
Definitely a lot better for the lungs!
Very helpful. Thanks for answering several questions I had.
Nice video and chair 👍
That was a surprisingly simple blasting setup for small scale work. Interesting. BTW I think you should tidy the lounge before you have visitors over. Working on boats is a messy job but you've got maintain standards!
I'll do some dusting before next video ;)
I went back several times to look at the comparison between the ventury and pressurized pot medium feed and it certainly looks like the pressurized feed works a lot faster and would probably work even faster if you increased the pressure in the blasting tank.
I noticed it more watching it on film too, and I think I can still tunes the valves on the sand blasting unit to give an even better result.
Cool chair.
I rigged up a simple gravity feed and it worked good. Was only my media in a hopper on top of my steps,about nine feet up. If it blocked then a tap on the steps sorted things out. Simple but worked !
Simple is always good. :)
I've used that sand blast tank here in UK and with salt and struggled using it , think our compressor was underpowered! Looks like you've cracked it though for blasting the hull
I wonder if part of the reason that using the sandblaster to feed abrasive didn't work better is the shutoff valve. Since your fittings go inside the hose it's going to restrict the flow a bit. Probably not a huge amount, but perhaps enough to make it equal to the suction method. But if the simple system works, why add complexity.
By the way, do you have a cabnet sandblaster for the small stuff? The small ones can be had pretty cheap (or built pretty easy) and use a shop vac for a dust collector.
I don't currently have a cabinet blaster but I do think it would be good for the small suff.
Just dilute the chlorine 5:1.
As I wrote this you said that. 😂
Edit - loving this series by the way. I don't own or intend on owning a steel boat any time soon but really enjoy watching people restore old vehicles. Thanks for taking the time to film and share it with us.
Thanks for documenting your journey. It's really great to watch your success but also grounding to hear your struggles.
Hey man, make sure the sandblaster is dry. The moisture from the compressor fucks everything over. Run multiple water traps inline. Worked for me.
For sure, it doesn't take much moisture at all for the sand to stop flowing.
Can you adjust the tip on the power washer to spray in a fan shape or oscillating motion to cover a wider area??
Not on that set up but there are some available that are similar except you put a standard pressure washer tip of your choice after the sand pick up Venturi
man you got me hooked this is interesting and I was like its going to take him forever to do the whole boat then u said u was bringing in a pro lol
Yeah, I'll just do the bits and pieces as I go, he can do the big job. :)
You've put together a close clone of my original system. I no longer use the 10 gallon sandblaster but use a large plastic garbage bin in which I have installed 12mm T piece with a series of 3mm holes drilled on the underside of the T crosspiece, which has.its ends capped. The compressor is hooked up to the stem of the T. I then use the supplied induction system, including the twin tube feeder, The T piece is zip tied to 3 reo-steel supports and the feeder tube also zip tied so that it is picking up medium under the T bar. I now use sieved sand because; a) I can get it for free, b)with wet blasting you do not have the same health issues as dry blasting, and c) if you are not recovering your media garnet can get very expensive when doing large surface areas. Since the biggest job I have ever done is the rear of a 3 metre grader blade I can get away running a smaller compressor at about 30/35 psi. My set-up is far from original and was shown to me by Canadian Dan about 40 years ago, though feeding a dry blaster. A 120 litre bin will give you enough time to want a smoko by the time it needs refilling. Thanks for taking the time to put your efforts on You Tube, your work makes my leisure quite pleasurable.
Interesting, so the air in the t-piece is purely to agitate the sand so the venturi can pick it up better?
@@DangarMarine That's precisely it. I guess that you could use almost any shape, ie circular or V you just want to fluidise the medium as it both promotes better flow and actually uses less media when working properly. It also helps to put a lid on the bin as "sand burps" can have you vacuuming the stuff up before its been through the blaster.
Love your vids mate, champion.
Was going to suggest simply diluting the chlorine beforehand but mentioned in the video that you'd already gotten that suggestion. Keep it simple!
Not sure if this comment has been added, but the venturi pickup on pressure washers is usually a high volume low pressure tip on the wand. The pressure you need at the tip with your setup might not have a low enough pressure at the chemical venturi. If it doesn't maybe use one of those 1 gallon round up pumps. Rinse all the garnet off then have your mixture in one of those little pumps. Also if it works then use a 5:1 or 4:1 ratio in a bucket of bleach for the pressure washer venturi to pickup. If the pressure washer is 20:1 it'll use about 1 gallon per every 10 min of blasting.
Yes, I think the back pressure of the high pressure nozzle will be a problem. The Chlor-Rid needs to be sprayed under pressure so I'll go to picking up from a tank.
Nice set up mate...the door is looking schmick too and will be a great addition. Cheers :)
Thanks Mark, can't wait to get that door installed but I'm feeling a bit guilty about it as it is fun to make but not really on the critical path towards getting the hull back in the water.
I dilute CT18 when using the Karcher to wash the car. It works a treat. Great video as usual. I'm restoring a 1970 LC Torana so I'm very interested to see how you go with the wet blasting. I've also got a tinny and half cabin in the pipeline for restoration, so I might see you on the Hawkesbury one day.
Hey James, come over if you see the boat!
I thought that using the sand blaster seemed to be cleaning the metal a bit quicker than when the pickup was placed straight into the garnet bag. Maybe you were just moving the hose a bit quicker?
Watching the video back I did too. I didn't notice it so much at the time but I think it was quicker with a bit of air pressure behind it. I'll see if I can figure out what happened with the sand blaster and keep using it for a while. That unit is also a good dry place to store the garnet compared to a bag that has been opened.
@@DangarMarine It was cleaning a bit quicker, but it seemed like a lot more media was being wasted, judging by the thick brown accumulating on the steel you were washing.
Sorry to be slow replying but I just found your 'building of the plywood composite boat' so now I have two things to watch you do. @@DangarMarine
@@gordonclark7632 Yes about that.... I think Stu's a metal man. : )
Yeah, the composite boat build is on hold until this goes back in the water!
Did a week of that in Canada when I was on leave.
That's obviously the ticket! Like Wally said below, i didnt know it was that easy to set up and i've got exactly the same washer. I'm itchin to see how that works on the hull and i'm guessin there's a product you can put on the hull after the wash to keep it semi protected until paint? That hull job is sure looking a bit less daunting now! Thanks again!!
Yes, the Chlor-Rid and Hold-Blast I have will give the metal about three days protection before painting. The sooner the better but it is nice to know you can do something to by yourself time to do some welding or whatever before getting the primer on.