I am so addicted to these videos! I think all of your viewers feel like we have a vested interest in the final product. Great video and can’t wait to see what the hull looks like after it is sandblasted.
I’ll never have a steel trawler but watching you work and make decisions about every little thing and thinking about them is enjoyable and encouraging.
Nice job with the door fab and welding Stu. It’s good that you are making all of the improvements to the boat all now while on the hard. It beats having a wish list and never having the time to get it done when the boat is in use.
Hey Jack, yeah, it is good to get as much done as possible on the hard. I know there will still be heaps to do after it is back in the water but the less the better!
Thanks for the video, I enjoy watching how you work through solving problems, without just throwing money at it. A real credit to you, I know very little about boats but am learning
Clean cuts. Removing the paint from both sides before cutting with the acetylene torch makes the cut much cleaner. I usually used the needle gun first, then used the torch to burn off the remaining paint. Hitting the oxygen lever makes the paint burn off quickly. Finally a line scribed (scratched into the steel) that I could follow gave the best results. Thanks for the videos!
Love the drone footage of the boat from vertical as well as the boatyard and Dangar Island. I love how nicely this boat is coming along. You are an excellent boat mechanic.
Home engineering - it's great, even the dog had a thought on which way the door should swing. As they say in the classics " I'm lovin' every minute of it "
I just love this project. Great to see you do your stuff and not afraid to show things that did not go so well in the first go too. Just a very honest and open video. keep it up.
Great series. My wife and I are restoring a 100 year old 62x10 Dutch Barge for my father. Using twin Lynch electric motors to power it. It’s a massive project at the minute we are full time on it making good progress!
Awesome progress Stu. Great editing job too. Loved the drone footage. It's a nice way of showing your overseas viewers the paradise you live in. The boat has come a long way in such a short time. Now take the weekend off and go for a ride!
Nice pass through! Hinging on the bow side does make more sense it’s coming along nicely fairly soon you can set sail and enjoy your new home away from home ! SKOL BUD !
I really enjoy watching your videos while having my early Sunday morning coffee. Nevermind the negative comments, somebody somewhere is benefitting from this documented rebuild.
a smaller piece of pipe that went inside the top rail, cut a slot and you have a massive pad bolt to lock the gate. Also if you intentionally mount the hinges out of whack , your gate will pivot and tilt up as it goes through 90 degrees. do the angles right and the bottom of the gate would clear the deck . My first thought of the side sheet supports not being vertical is that they may have been set up to be vertical when the boat is in the water as most boats sit a bit stern down.
Hey Ron, yes it would be interesting to put a spirit level against them when the boat is floating again. I agree that style of bolt would be strong, but I fear it would have too many corrosion issues so I have elected to keep the top railings sealed from water. Angling the hinges could be a good option too but it would still need the freeing port so I'm not sure it is necessary. Of course in the end I'll probably just get lazy and put a chain across it. ;)
I have owned a few boat in my day boats are like house's and farms there's all ways some thing need to be dun to them i just in joy watching these shows and can't wait for the next one i would love to have you as my neighbor Stu
Nice work Stu. Those hinges are great to work with and you can put them one one of two ways. One is so the door is captured and can't be removed (other than cutting one hinge off) and the other would be so you could take the door off in case the need arises. All you have to do make sure the door doesn't fall off is have a small piece of rod welded welded above the hinge piece on the door so it can't lift up or a bolt going thru a nut that's welded to the frame so you can back the bolt out and allow the door to rise up. I'd go with a drop bar or a barrel bolt, both simple and strong. great video as always.........Mike
You've inspired me to get on and get stuff done on the camper - sure, no relation to your boat, but a project of mine and you're doing things in parallel on your project while I'm taking breaks and doing one thing at a time...no wonder its been going on for 6 months now....
Stu, Another trick is to put a thin copper sheet under that rust patch & weld over it, the weld won't stick to the copper. Use copper pipe to rebuild & re-weld flogged out round holes.
Yes, that saves a lot of time. Use the TIG to fill in the missing metal. Don't waste time making the job bigger than it has to be. Remember there are usually two types of boatie, one that works on boats and one that has them on the water. Cheers
Hey Stu! Making good progress. It's nice to have someone there with another perspective. I really need to get one of those needle grinders. Have a goodie.
If you hinge the aft end of the door to open inwards, stand the hinges off by a couple of inches then the whole will swing back parallel to the remaining bulwark. A spring loaded bolt with a striker plate forward and another aft for when stowed and jobs a good un. Acess both for and aft is then maximised and your door is always secured out of harms way. Great work, great vids keep em coming.
She is going to be a famous boat when she is sat in the water again. Many of us will look at her affectionately, knowing what's gone into her. Again and as always, bravo 👏👏👏
Looking good. Consider the mechanism for keeping the door in the open position. If you need to keep it open on open water (man overboard, etc), you need to keep that heavy door from knocking you off the boat. Also consider the clearance at the bottom of the door, make sure it's perfect for wedging your foot to the floor (or not). Smooth sailing.
Hey Stu...excellent and engrossing video again.....Loved the discussion of Design.....the "back and forth"....the discussion of user experience....soo important on boats....you have taught me so much about working in steel.....(woodwork guy).......when Eddie stuck his head out of the wheel house I laughed my a** off!.......can't wait to see your next one mate....good work......good luck with the haircuts!
Ditch the oxy torch and use the plasma cutter on a straight edge. You can even make your own straight edges to follow a contoured shape. Cuts better, reduces heat warpage and gets rid of a whole load of grinding. Love watching the progress and there’s something hypnotic about the needle gun time lapse.
You're doing a great job, just a couple of little tips. When cutting vertical with a grinder, hold it 90 degrees to your right. The sparks will go past you, not on to you. You will be more protected by the guard if the wheel decides to disintegrate, and if the grinder "kicks back" it will be in to air, not your face... Also keep all flammable materials away, thinners, petrol ext. Second thing , the oxy will cut through paint no worries, you do not need to grind the paint off before, it's enough heat to burn steel, it will burn paint.
Steady as she goes Stu .Would have loved to see that door mounted this vid , but not complaining and i think in the end you are swinging it the right way . keep up the good work , can't wait for the next one . PS enjoyed that drone footage and the sense of country around you .
You can use the round tube on the top as a latch . Get some tube that fits inside . Cut a slot in the door and make a slide bolt in it . Easy done and big and strong .
This is when making a test door out of scrap wood helps. Easy to chop and modify and then transfer design to steel once you happy with it. Much easier to test fit a light weight wood door than a lump of steel. If you get it wrong then just chuck it back in the waste pile and make another until you happy with it. A pair of split doors has a lot of advantages. More work to make but easier to move around when open. Could open outwards and lock back against existing structure. Doors completely out of the way.
Nice job mate...all coming along well, Love the drone footage too. Very cool. Once again we witnessed the great man DP adding his invaluable advice and design tips, not unlike the time he assisted in re-configuring the Green Machine during it's 2016 face-lift. Keep going mate, you are flying now ! Bring on the sand blasting :)
@@DangarMarine don't worry about those nightmares where the sand blaster blows a hole in the side of the hull..plenty of steel there still :) she'll be right
Yeah, I figure I'd rather find any problem on the hardstand than at sea. Just poured myself a glass of red and about to start reading that book that your dad gave me. A fine Sunday afternoon! :)
I can't help thinking you used the oxy cutter because its a new 'toy' That large cutter blade would have gone down as far as you need and also left a neater cut line, even more so if you pressed it up against the bulwark supports, they would have acted as a guide for the blade.
I was thinking the same thing (not that I blame him! I'm notorious for the same thing). That whole time I was yelling at the screen "Why not just use the grinder for the whole thing!". That said, I kind of got over my love affair with oxy acetylene years ago. I just found it to be far too much of a burden to deal with for the danger it presents over plasma cutting. Obviously that is strictly personal opinion. I still have my oxy torch but I actually don't think I've pulled it out in at least 10 years.
Definitely would have been the smart thing to do!! But I guess he's going off the old adage that "A grinder and paint will make him the "cutter" he ain't"... I know the saying usually goes to welding but....LOL
I was just going to say the same thing and saw your comment. He did not need to grind the metal before using the torch as well. Now the quickest way would have been a plasma cutter. Done in under 2 minutes.
Over here we know them only by their power and the 2000W grinder is my go to tool for heavy cutting and even though I have an oxy-acetylene torch, I've never used it. I always use my plasma cutter or big grinder. 90% of grinder safety is planning your cut so that your grinder won't come at you if it grabs, sparks won't come at you and that the cutting disc doesn't get pinched. If the sparks don't come at you, you'll probably get away with those safety squints...lol
yeah it's not fun when they come into your eye with hypo needle and telling you not to move or blink while they drill our the metal piece, mine started rusting in my eye....
Strange that when I built a steel boat and wore safety googles, the metal pieces got past and into my eyes, and I was regularly at emergency and the eye clinic, now I only wear glasses and have no problem.
Agree here Stu, my spark welded to the surface of my eye. The hospital had to numb it and pick it off with a hypo needle, then bandage until the numbness wore off
If you use a long hinge made from small pipe welded vertically and then drop a long rod with a top handle for pulling it up using a hinge on either side you can fully remove and swing it either direction. The length would give it strength and plastic bushings would allow it to slide in and out with ease. Cheap, strong and easy. Stainless material would keep corrosion away if you chose. Grease zerts would also make it swing easy. Boats are always a learning curve. As the old saying goes, Never met a shipwright with a square. Take care. Doug
It is tempting to go a long pipe hinge, and have one at both ends. I'll look into that. Oh, and yes, I don't think I'll be getting much use out of the square. ;)
Hello from Detroit Stu. Always remember... a grinder and paint makes us the welders we ain't. A lot of people are suggesting a barrel bolt in the top rail,seems like a good/easy solution. I was thinking of a cam and lever with rods as dogs on the edges and bottom of your NWTD. Thanks for posting.
We lost TWO steel doors like this before we secured the current one on the 46 m ex navy vessel I volunteer on :-) The change is not so remote. A place were it can rest securely is welcome too when you take it out.
one suggestion, When cutting hold the torch at about a 30 degree angle into the work. It will cut easier. Don't be afraid to give it plenty of gas and O2 running roughly 5-8 lbs on the gas side and what works well on the O2 side. Did you think of 2 smaller doors turning in? It would have fixed the spacing issues so the doors would have taken up less space. I wish we were closer, I'd love to come and help, I'm retired but I still love to build stuff! Thanks from Virginia USA
Hey Bob. I'm going to try it as one piece for a while as I can always chop it in two later if the one piece design doesn't work out so well. Thanks for the oxy tips!
Hi Stu just an idea regarding your door the piece of tube you cut out of the door if you had got a section of solid bar that fitted inside you could have made a slide bolt by tabbing it with a bit of plate so it slid between the door and the adjoining panel. Then just welded a locking plate on the door to prevent it sliding open while under way. Great video really enjoying this series on the steel boat.
Worked well for me probably because I change priorities on the job as necessary worked around welders & ship fitters building 1200t tuna seiners for 3 years Thanx from the left coast near the Krapitol of California
Really enjoyed the drone footage, the needle gun footage, and the rest too, of course. Nice progress! Like others, I wondered why you didn't keep going with the angle grinder cut, but it turned out just fine.
@@DangarMarine, Yes, that will be the big payoff! In the meantime, keep focusing on the stuff that you won't be able to get to when the boat is in the water and the engine back in.
For sure. The current priority is all the hull repairs so that the new steel I add will also get sandblasted. After that it will cleaning and painting the engine bay before rewiring all the electrics. So much to do!
Definitely a lot of work, but you are making steady progress. Soon, the hull integrity stuff will be done, and the boat will be back in the water. Then you can take a break, and pick off smaller items as you see fit. Keep going! It's looking good!
Another great video, your making good progress with that little boat. I would give some consideration to cutting the door down the middle, I can see a few others have thrown that idea forward already.
If you put a rod/slide bolt INSIDE the top rail. You can cut a key slot on the forward rail side before the door and the bolt will go into the door rail and can be locked down.
@@TonyRule also i saves spending more money. You can also straight cut the hand rail higher up with a grinder and slot in a flat piece of metal.. weld grind and your water proof the rail.
Re-wiring isn't far off Rudy. I should post my design for the electrics before I get into it as it would be great to get peoples ideas before starting.
Haven't seen to the end yet so sorry if you solve the issue later on but what about a sliding bar in the round bar on the top for the latch. ( Like a bolt on the gun )
As you mentioned at one point, the goal is to achieve a result as good as the Green Machine. A lofty goal, but sometimes it's best to reach for the stars.
I am so addicted to these videos! I think all of your viewers feel like we have a vested interest in the final product. Great video and can’t wait to see what the hull looks like after it is sandblasted.
Thanks mate, I'm looking forward to the sandblasting too.
Just a quick note to let you know I am really enjoying the restoration videos of this boat
I’ll never have a steel trawler but watching you work and make decisions about every little thing and thinking about them is enjoyable and encouraging.
Nice job with the door fab and welding Stu. It’s good that you are making all of the improvements to the boat all now while on the hard. It beats having a wish list and never having the time to get it done when the boat is in use.
Hey Jack, yeah, it is good to get as much done as possible on the hard. I know there will still be heaps to do after it is back in the water but the less the better!
Nice Door mate!
Thanks for the video, I enjoy watching how you work through solving problems, without just throwing money at it. A real credit to you, I know very little about boats but am learning
Clean cuts. Removing the paint from both sides before cutting with the acetylene torch makes the cut much cleaner. I usually used the needle gun first, then used the torch to burn off the remaining paint. Hitting the oxygen lever makes the paint burn off quickly. Finally a line scribed (scratched into the steel) that I could follow gave the best results. Thanks for the videos!
You are doing great. It is nice to have a friend to talk things over with while you plan out your modifications. It is looking so sweet. I can't wait!
It certainly does help to have someone to bounce ideas off.
A project to be proud of. Good to see it coming on. Memories in the making.
Love the drone footage of the boat from vertical as well as the boatyard and Dangar Island.
I love how nicely this boat is coming along. You are an excellent boat mechanic.
Enjoying the video production enhancements, Stu. The longer format works well too, Cheerio.
Great video Stu, remember to shorten one of those hinge pins before welding. It'll make door hanging so much easier!
Good tip!
Home engineering - it's great, even the dog had a thought on which way the door should swing. As they say in the classics " I'm lovin' every minute of it "
I just love this project. Great to see you do your stuff and not afraid to show things that did not go so well in the first go too. Just a very honest and open video. keep it up.
The aerial view was great, it’s a lovely part of the world that you hide out in..
I look forward to these vids every week.
Living the dream mate. Dust heat and hard work you can't beat it. Great job Pat yourself on the back. Glued to your effort and progress👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
The time lapse needle gunning vision is oddly satisfying.
Great job mate n your consideration about dust n noise for other people is Brilliant what many people lack now days waiting for the next video
Best working on boats channel on RUclips today.
Great series. My wife and I are restoring a 100 year old 62x10 Dutch Barge for my father. Using twin Lynch electric motors to power it. It’s a massive project at the minute we are full time on it making good progress!
Awesome progress Stu. Great editing job too. Loved the drone footage. It's a nice way of showing your overseas viewers the paradise you live in. The boat has come a long way in such a short time. Now take the weekend off and go for a ride!
Thanks mate. Glad you liked the footage. It was actually interesting for me too to see the area from that angle.
@@DangarMarine cheers. Don't tell me you have sold the bike.....
Nice pass through! Hinging on the bow side does make more sense it’s coming along nicely fairly soon you can set sail and enjoy your new home away from home ! SKOL BUD !
Nice one stu, she is starting to come back together, not be long before she is back in the water
The Aussie Allrounder!
Boats a nice Shape from above.
Beauty DM, Great Episode.
Thanks Jono!
Had me going for a while until you figured out how to mark up the door. Looking forward to the next vid.
I'm too used to house building where everything is square and plumb. It's such a different way of thinking on boats.
here you are ! oopf . I was busy working and did not want to miss any of your jobs, you little blessing. Lord bless you!
it is awesome
Nice work mate, addicted to the progress!!
So, I'm watching this series for the first time and one thing I think you really need more of is your dog in the videos LOL.
I really enjoy watching your videos while having my early Sunday morning coffee. Nevermind the negative comments, somebody somewhere is benefitting from this documented rebuild.
I am enjoying this boat build. I luv the Hawkesbury having been a long term resident going back 50 years at MYOBB
a smaller piece of pipe that went inside the top rail, cut a slot and you have a massive pad bolt to lock the gate. Also if you intentionally mount the hinges out of whack , your gate will pivot and tilt up as it goes through 90 degrees. do the angles right and the bottom of the gate would clear the deck .
My first thought of the side sheet supports not being vertical is that they may have been set up to be vertical when the boat is in the water as most boats sit a bit stern down.
Hey Ron, yes it would be interesting to put a spirit level against them when the boat is floating again. I agree that style of bolt would be strong, but I fear it would have too many corrosion issues so I have elected to keep the top railings sealed from water. Angling the hinges could be a good option too but it would still need the freeing port so I'm not sure it is necessary. Of course in the end I'll probably just get lazy and put a chain across it. ;)
Dangar Stu - fuelled by improv and beer. Luv it.
Great progress Stu. I know you agonised about the door top rail, and any imperfection. Epoxy filler, sand and paint.
"Don't make things square, make 'em dance to the music" - lesson for Life there!
I have owned a few boat in my day boats are like house's and farms there's all ways some thing need to be dun to them i just in joy watching these shows and can't wait for the next one i would love to have you as my neighbor Stu
Stu, I can't help but say it again: another great episode. Love the longer format too, more please...
I like the way you charge every task , keep up your hard work
Nice work Stu. Those hinges are great to work with and you can put them one one of two ways. One is so the door is captured and can't be removed (other than cutting one hinge off) and the other would be so you could take the door off in case the need arises. All you have to do make sure the door doesn't fall off is have a small piece of rod welded welded above the hinge piece on the door so it can't lift up or a bolt going thru a nut that's welded to the frame so you can back the bolt out and allow the door to rise up.
I'd go with a drop bar or a barrel bolt, both simple and strong.
great video as always.........Mike
This guy is living the life.
Yeah he certainly is. I would love to do that and live in a beautiful place like that.
Loved the drone footage 👍 keep up the good work
You've inspired me to get on and get stuff done on the camper - sure, no relation to your boat, but a project of mine and you're doing things in parallel on your project while I'm taking breaks and doing one thing at a time...no wonder its been going on for 6 months now....
It doesn't matter what the project is, it's always good to have a bit of motivation. :)
The drone footage is stupendous.
Stu, Another trick is to put a thin copper sheet under that rust patch & weld over it, the weld won't stick to the copper. Use copper pipe to rebuild & re-weld flogged out round holes.
Yes, that saves a lot of time. Use the TIG to fill in the missing metal. Don't waste time making the job bigger than it has to be. Remember there are usually two types of boatie, one that works on boats and one that has them on the water. Cheers
Aluminium works too.
6:10, love the aerial shots. What a beautiful part of the world to go boating in!
Hey Stu! Making good progress. It's nice to have someone there with another perspective. I really need to get one of those needle grinders. Have a goodie.
Really liked the drone footage!
If you hinge the aft end of the door to open inwards, stand the hinges off by a couple of inches then the whole will swing back parallel to the remaining bulwark. A spring loaded bolt with a striker plate forward and another aft for when stowed and jobs a good un. Acess both for and aft is then maximised and your door is always secured out of harms way.
Great work, great vids keep em coming.
She is going to be a famous boat when she is sat in the water again. Many of us will look at her affectionately, knowing what's gone into her. Again and as always, bravo 👏👏👏
Thanks mate. I can't wait for the maiden voyage!
Another great video Stu! Awesome progress, this is a great series!
Great vid Stu, love the wide-angle drone shots.
Congrats, you've become my first Patreon sponsored creator! Keep up the great videos :)
Thanks mate, really appreciate your support and hope you get much joy from the videos. :)
Looking good. Consider the mechanism for keeping the door in the open position. If you need to keep it open on open water (man overboard, etc), you need to keep that heavy door from knocking you off the boat. Also consider the clearance at the bottom of the door, make sure it's perfect for wedging your foot to the floor (or not). Smooth sailing.
Good points about locking it open and not hitting your (probably bare) feet while out boating.
Hey Stu...excellent and engrossing video again.....Loved the discussion of Design.....the "back and forth"....the discussion of user experience....soo important on boats....you have taught me so much about working in steel.....(woodwork guy).......when Eddie stuck his head out of the wheel house I laughed my a** off!.......can't wait to see your next one mate....good work......good luck with the haircuts!
Ditch the oxy torch and use the plasma cutter on a straight edge. You can even make your own straight edges to follow a contoured shape. Cuts better, reduces heat warpage and gets rid of a whole load of grinding. Love watching the progress and there’s something hypnotic about the needle gun time lapse.
Cut the door in half, hinge both sides and have two small doors which can fold right back flush.
Also, could have put a shot pin in, through the top tube to hold it shut flush, when closed.
Bolt in the middle inside on each door into the deck, so that they can open independently. Also prevent them moving up with the drop on hinges!
How many beers to come up with that?
mark rainford surprisingly none! I’m impressed with myself there !
Put the hinge on the bottom of the door, so it can fold down and be out of your way from either side!
.
.
😉
I think the real descion is xxxx gold, coppers red or 150 lashes. Enjoying the build videos look forward to the next.
You're doing a great job, just a couple of little tips.
When cutting vertical with a grinder, hold it 90 degrees to your right. The sparks will go past you, not on to you. You will be more protected by the guard if the wheel decides to disintegrate, and if the grinder "kicks back" it will be in to air, not your face... Also keep all flammable materials away, thinners, petrol ext.
Second thing , the oxy will cut through paint no worries, you do not need to grind the paint off before, it's enough heat to burn steel, it will burn paint.
Steady as she goes Stu .Would have loved to see that door mounted this vid , but not complaining and i think in the end you are swinging it the right way . keep up the good work , can't wait for the next one . PS enjoyed that drone footage and the sense of country around you .
Great job, you will have a fine boat when you're done!
Well done. That's all I've got for this one.
Being able to TIG weld makes you a boss... 👏
really enjoying ... love the progress>>>>>>>>>>>>
You can use the round tube on the top as a latch . Get some tube that fits inside . Cut a slot in the door and make a slide bolt in it . Easy done and big and strong .
Nice work mate! Makes me want to film and show my rebuild!
Love the drone footage - not hard to see why you enjoy boating!
It just amazes me on the task you take on... then conquer.. as I’ve said before thank you for taking us on the journey with you 👍👍👍👍
Being stubborn has its uses. ;)
This is when making a test door out of scrap wood helps. Easy to chop and modify and then transfer design to steel once you happy with it. Much easier to test fit a light weight wood door than a lump of steel. If you get it wrong then just chuck it back in the waste pile and make another until you happy with it.
A pair of split doors has a lot of advantages. More work to make but easier to move around when open. Could open outwards and lock back against existing structure. Doors completely out of the way.
Even heavy cardboard works for templates.
Nice job mate...all coming along well, Love the drone footage too. Very cool. Once again we witnessed the great man DP adding his invaluable advice and design tips, not unlike the time he assisted in re-configuring the Green Machine during it's 2016 face-lift. Keep going mate, you are flying now ! Bring on the sand blasting :)
Thanks mate. Dave's contribution did remind me of the Green Machine refit too. Sandblasting may be happening this week. I'm getting nervous!
@@DangarMarine don't worry about those nightmares where the sand blaster blows a hole in the side of the hull..plenty of steel there still :) she'll be right
Yeah, I figure I'd rather find any problem on the hardstand than at sea. Just poured myself a glass of red and about to start reading that book that your dad gave me. A fine Sunday afternoon! :)
@@DangarMarine Great title
I can't help thinking you used the oxy cutter because its a new 'toy' That large cutter blade would have gone down as far as you need and also left a neater cut line, even more so if you pressed it up against the bulwark supports, they would have acted as a guide for the blade.
I was thinking the same thing (not that I blame him! I'm notorious for the same thing). That whole time I was yelling at the screen "Why not just use the grinder for the whole thing!". That said, I kind of got over my love affair with oxy acetylene years ago. I just found it to be far too much of a burden to deal with for the danger it presents over plasma cutting. Obviously that is strictly personal opinion. I still have my oxy torch but I actually don't think I've pulled it out in at least 10 years.
Definitely would have been the smart thing to do!! But I guess he's going off the old adage that "A grinder and paint will make him the "cutter" he ain't"... I know the saying usually goes to welding but....LOL
I was just going to say the same thing and saw your comment. He did not need to grind the metal before using the torch as well. Now the quickest way would have been a plasma cutter. Done in under 2 minutes.
Using the Tig for all that work was even worse when a mig would have been way faster and easier. Either way, nice job.
@@geanozz8940 sometimes?
Grinding/Cutting safety glasses a MUST. I've had metal in my eye Stu and its NOT fun!!!
You should have engaged your 'safety squints' haha
Over here we know them only by their power and the 2000W grinder is my go to tool for heavy cutting and even though I have an oxy-acetylene torch, I've never used it. I always use my plasma cutter or big grinder. 90% of grinder safety is planning your cut so that your grinder won't come at you if it grabs, sparks won't come at you and that the cutting disc doesn't get pinched. If the sparks don't come at you, you'll probably get away with those safety squints...lol
yeah it's not fun when they come into your eye with hypo needle and telling you not to move or blink while they drill our the metal piece, mine started rusting in my eye....
Strange that when I built a steel boat and wore safety googles, the metal pieces got past and into my eyes, and I was regularly at emergency and the eye clinic, now I only wear glasses and have no problem.
Agree here Stu, my spark welded to the surface of my eye. The hospital had to numb it and pick it off with a hypo needle, then bandage until the numbness wore off
Greetings from Liverpool, great vids. Liked the drone work. Keep em coming buddy
If you use a long hinge made from small pipe welded vertically and then drop a long rod with a top handle for pulling it up using a hinge on either side you can fully remove and swing it either direction. The length would give it strength and plastic bushings would allow it to slide in and out with ease. Cheap, strong and easy. Stainless material would keep corrosion away if you chose. Grease zerts would also make it swing easy. Boats are always a learning curve. As the old saying goes, Never met a shipwright with a square. Take care. Doug
It is tempting to go a long pipe hinge, and have one at both ends. I'll look into that. Oh, and yes, I don't think I'll be getting much use out of the square. ;)
Hello from Detroit Stu. Always remember... a grinder and paint makes us the welders we ain't. A lot of people are suggesting a barrel bolt in the top rail,seems like a good/easy solution. I was thinking of a cam and lever with rods as dogs on the edges and bottom of your NWTD. Thanks for posting.
Great work Stu i like watching you work cheers
Loving this series, ty
We lost TWO steel doors like this before we secured the current one on the 46 m ex navy vessel I volunteer on :-) The change is not so remote. A place were it can rest securely is welcome too when you take it out.
That was fun... At least for me it was. Looked like pretty messy work from where you were standing. Love the videos, keep em coming.
one suggestion, When cutting hold the torch at about a 30 degree angle into the work. It will cut easier. Don't be afraid to give it plenty of gas and O2 running roughly 5-8 lbs on the gas side and what works well on the O2 side. Did you think of 2 smaller doors turning in? It would have fixed the spacing issues so the doors would have taken up less space. I wish we were closer, I'd love to come and help, I'm retired but I still love to build stuff! Thanks from Virginia USA
Hey Bob. I'm going to try it as one piece for a while as I can always chop it in two later if the one piece design doesn't work out so well. Thanks for the oxy tips!
Hi Stu just an idea regarding your door the piece of tube you cut out of the door if you had got a section of solid bar that fitted inside you could have made a slide bolt by tabbing it with a bit of plate so it slid between the door and the adjoining panel. Then just welded a locking plate on the door to prevent it sliding open while under way.
Great video really enjoying this series on the steel boat.
Worked well for me probably because I change priorities on the job as necessary worked around welders & ship fitters building 1200t tuna seiners for 3 years
Thanx from the left coast near the Krapitol of California
I sorta feel like flying to Australia and helping you with this thing for a week or so.. It would be a considered a Vacation for me..🤣😁
Do it. You only live once!
i was thinking the same thing as my son lives in Melbourne
Me too, I would love to help!
Me to, I`m really up for it, what a blast.
Already a boat building project going like like. Built by RUclips volunteers.
Eddieeeeee!! Love ol Ed cameos. Great job, disjointed or not, love these vids!!
Really enjoyed the drone footage, the needle gun footage, and the rest too, of course.
Nice progress!
Like others, I wondered why you didn't keep going with the angle grinder cut, but it turned out just fine.
Thanks Tony, does feel like it is starting to get there now. Can't wait to get it back in the water!
@@DangarMarine, Yes, that will be the big payoff!
In the meantime, keep focusing on the stuff that you won't be able to get to when the boat is in the water and the engine back in.
For sure. The current priority is all the hull repairs so that the new steel I add will also get sandblasted. After that it will cleaning and painting the engine bay before rewiring all the electrics. So much to do!
Definitely a lot of work, but you are making steady progress. Soon, the hull integrity stuff will be done, and the boat will be back in the water. Then you can take a break, and pick off smaller items as you see fit.
Keep going! It's looking good!
Job runs smoother after a few beers !
Beautiful area!
A door in the boat a man after my heart.
Another great video, your making good progress with that little boat. I would give some consideration to cutting the door down the middle, I can see a few others have thrown that idea forward already.
Loving your videos.
If you put a rod/slide bolt INSIDE the top rail. You can cut a key slot on the forward rail side before the door and the bolt will go into the door rail and can be locked down.
That's what I'd do with a long stroke and a tapered pin so it self-aligns because it WILL sag over time.
@@TonyRule also i saves spending more money. You can also straight cut the hand rail higher up with a grinder and slot in a flat piece of metal.. weld grind and your water proof the rail.
Good work stu
Thanks Dean.
I'm rooting for you! I look forward to each video! I I am there with you in spirit! Grind on! :)
I fu**ing love this guy. Jack of all trades master of all trades!
I'd love to come down there to help you rewire that nice old boat!
Re-wiring isn't far off Rudy. I should post my design for the electrics before I get into it as it would be great to get peoples ideas before starting.
Haven't seen to the end yet so sorry if you solve the issue later on but what about a sliding bar in the round bar on the top for the latch. ( Like a bolt on the gun )
Could be a problem long-term with corrosion
I was thinking the same thing. Could weld in a blind stainless sleeve in the top tube so water can get in. Would be very strong.
Looks unreal mate. I'm on pittwater if you ever want to grab a beer.
Awesome job! Thanks for the videos.
PS: You could put another in the middle and the hatch would split and open both ways or only 1/2 could be used if more convenient.
Great as usual, wish al your videos were that long ....
As you mentioned at one point, the goal is to achieve a result as good as the Green Machine. A lofty goal, but sometimes it's best to reach for the stars.
LOL. You're the only one to mention that comment. :)