I am so addicted to these videos! I think all of your viewers feel like we have a vested interest in the final product. Great video and can’t wait to see what the hull looks like after it is sandblasted.
Nice job with the door fab and welding Stu. It’s good that you are making all of the improvements to the boat all now while on the hard. It beats having a wish list and never having the time to get it done when the boat is in use.
Hey Jack, yeah, it is good to get as much done as possible on the hard. I know there will still be heaps to do after it is back in the water but the less the better!
I really enjoy watching your videos while having my early Sunday morning coffee. Nevermind the negative comments, somebody somewhere is benefitting from this documented rebuild.
I’ll never have a steel trawler but watching you work and make decisions about every little thing and thinking about them is enjoyable and encouraging.
Thanks for the video, I enjoy watching how you work through solving problems, without just throwing money at it. A real credit to you, I know very little about boats but am learning
Clean cuts. Removing the paint from both sides before cutting with the acetylene torch makes the cut much cleaner. I usually used the needle gun first, then used the torch to burn off the remaining paint. Hitting the oxygen lever makes the paint burn off quickly. Finally a line scribed (scratched into the steel) that I could follow gave the best results. Thanks for the videos!
Great series. My wife and I are restoring a 100 year old 62x10 Dutch Barge for my father. Using twin Lynch electric motors to power it. It’s a massive project at the minute we are full time on it making good progress!
Looking good. Consider the mechanism for keeping the door in the open position. If you need to keep it open on open water (man overboard, etc), you need to keep that heavy door from knocking you off the boat. Also consider the clearance at the bottom of the door, make sure it's perfect for wedging your foot to the floor (or not). Smooth sailing.
Nice work Stu. Those hinges are great to work with and you can put them one one of two ways. One is so the door is captured and can't be removed (other than cutting one hinge off) and the other would be so you could take the door off in case the need arises. All you have to do make sure the door doesn't fall off is have a small piece of rod welded welded above the hinge piece on the door so it can't lift up or a bolt going thru a nut that's welded to the frame so you can back the bolt out and allow the door to rise up. I'd go with a drop bar or a barrel bolt, both simple and strong. great video as always.........Mike
Awesome progress Stu. Great editing job too. Loved the drone footage. It's a nice way of showing your overseas viewers the paradise you live in. The boat has come a long way in such a short time. Now take the weekend off and go for a ride!
Love the drone footage of the boat from vertical as well as the boatyard and Dangar Island. I love how nicely this boat is coming along. You are an excellent boat mechanic.
a smaller piece of pipe that went inside the top rail, cut a slot and you have a massive pad bolt to lock the gate. Also if you intentionally mount the hinges out of whack , your gate will pivot and tilt up as it goes through 90 degrees. do the angles right and the bottom of the gate would clear the deck . My first thought of the side sheet supports not being vertical is that they may have been set up to be vertical when the boat is in the water as most boats sit a bit stern down.
Hey Ron, yes it would be interesting to put a spirit level against them when the boat is floating again. I agree that style of bolt would be strong, but I fear it would have too many corrosion issues so I have elected to keep the top railings sealed from water. Angling the hinges could be a good option too but it would still need the freeing port so I'm not sure it is necessary. Of course in the end I'll probably just get lazy and put a chain across it. ;)
She is going to be a famous boat when she is sat in the water again. Many of us will look at her affectionately, knowing what's gone into her. Again and as always, bravo 👏👏👏
I just love this project. Great to see you do your stuff and not afraid to show things that did not go so well in the first go too. Just a very honest and open video. keep it up.
Ditch the oxy torch and use the plasma cutter on a straight edge. You can even make your own straight edges to follow a contoured shape. Cuts better, reduces heat warpage and gets rid of a whole load of grinding. Love watching the progress and there’s something hypnotic about the needle gun time lapse.
Hello Buddy, If I may ; Say, it looks like that new door is bowed, just a reminder to keep those hinges in line, which will make them look crooked on the door , but work well and go on and off easier. cool job!
You're doing a great job, just a couple of little tips. When cutting vertical with a grinder, hold it 90 degrees to your right. The sparks will go past you, not on to you. You will be more protected by the guard if the wheel decides to disintegrate, and if the grinder "kicks back" it will be in to air, not your face... Also keep all flammable materials away, thinners, petrol ext. Second thing , the oxy will cut through paint no worries, you do not need to grind the paint off before, it's enough heat to burn steel, it will burn paint.
Nice pass through! Hinging on the bow side does make more sense it’s coming along nicely fairly soon you can set sail and enjoy your new home away from home ! SKOL BUD !
one suggestion, When cutting hold the torch at about a 30 degree angle into the work. It will cut easier. Don't be afraid to give it plenty of gas and O2 running roughly 5-8 lbs on the gas side and what works well on the O2 side. Did you think of 2 smaller doors turning in? It would have fixed the spacing issues so the doors would have taken up less space. I wish we were closer, I'd love to come and help, I'm retired but I still love to build stuff! Thanks from Virginia USA
Hey Bob. I'm going to try it as one piece for a while as I can always chop it in two later if the one piece design doesn't work out so well. Thanks for the oxy tips!
Home engineering - it's great, even the dog had a thought on which way the door should swing. As they say in the classics " I'm lovin' every minute of it "
Hey Stu...excellent and engrossing video again.....Loved the discussion of Design.....the "back and forth"....the discussion of user experience....soo important on boats....you have taught me so much about working in steel.....(woodwork guy).......when Eddie stuck his head out of the wheel house I laughed my a** off!.......can't wait to see your next one mate....good work......good luck with the haircuts!
If you hinge the aft end of the door to open inwards, stand the hinges off by a couple of inches then the whole will swing back parallel to the remaining bulwark. A spring loaded bolt with a striker plate forward and another aft for when stowed and jobs a good un. Acess both for and aft is then maximised and your door is always secured out of harms way. Great work, great vids keep em coming.
Nice job mate...all coming along well, Love the drone footage too. Very cool. Once again we witnessed the great man DP adding his invaluable advice and design tips, not unlike the time he assisted in re-configuring the Green Machine during it's 2016 face-lift. Keep going mate, you are flying now ! Bring on the sand blasting :)
@@DangarMarine don't worry about those nightmares where the sand blaster blows a hole in the side of the hull..plenty of steel there still :) she'll be right
Yeah, I figure I'd rather find any problem on the hardstand than at sea. Just poured myself a glass of red and about to start reading that book that your dad gave me. A fine Sunday afternoon! :)
I have owned a few boat in my day boats are like house's and farms there's all ways some thing need to be dun to them i just in joy watching these shows and can't wait for the next one i would love to have you as my neighbor Stu
You can use the round tube on the top as a latch . Get some tube that fits inside . Cut a slot in the door and make a slide bolt in it . Easy done and big and strong .
You've inspired me to get on and get stuff done on the camper - sure, no relation to your boat, but a project of mine and you're doing things in parallel on your project while I'm taking breaks and doing one thing at a time...no wonder its been going on for 6 months now....
Looks great, so handy and safer to access. Be careful on the set up with hinges etc regards pinch points, you might notice the relief angles typically required on transom doors due to the thickness and hinge placement. Personally I'd make a staino track for a composite/glass drop board to go into... but that's me;) Doing a great job on a very neat style of boat, awesome to watch!
Stu, Another trick is to put a thin copper sheet under that rust patch & weld over it, the weld won't stick to the copper. Use copper pipe to rebuild & re-weld flogged out round holes.
Yes, that saves a lot of time. Use the TIG to fill in the missing metal. Don't waste time making the job bigger than it has to be. Remember there are usually two types of boatie, one that works on boats and one that has them on the water. Cheers
Thanks for another really interesting video. Spent my day hanging drywall (gypsum board) for a bathroom remodel in an old, very out-of-square house. Watching your video, trying to decide if I'd rather weld, grind and fit metal or cut, mud, sand and fit drywall.
Just an observation. I don't know how far away that white center console is but I am thinking it should be covered. As you grind and cut you are sending little bits of metal into the air and the wind is whisking them away. I would be willing to bet that if you climbed into that little white boat it will be covered with little speckled rusty spots. As those shavings rust they stick to the gelcoat of other boats. I've seen this many times in boat yards and it can be costly to clean up and fix. I don't mean to nit pick, I love your videos, this has been a fun adventure. ~ Mike, Coast of Maine.
Hello from Detroit Stu. Always remember... a grinder and paint makes us the welders we ain't. A lot of people are suggesting a barrel bolt in the top rail,seems like a good/easy solution. I was thinking of a cam and lever with rods as dogs on the edges and bottom of your NWTD. Thanks for posting.
Steady as she goes Stu .Would have loved to see that door mounted this vid , but not complaining and i think in the end you are swinging it the right way . keep up the good work , can't wait for the next one . PS enjoyed that drone footage and the sense of country around you .
If you use a long hinge made from small pipe welded vertically and then drop a long rod with a top handle for pulling it up using a hinge on either side you can fully remove and swing it either direction. The length would give it strength and plastic bushings would allow it to slide in and out with ease. Cheap, strong and easy. Stainless material would keep corrosion away if you chose. Grease zerts would also make it swing easy. Boats are always a learning curve. As the old saying goes, Never met a shipwright with a square. Take care. Doug
It is tempting to go a long pipe hinge, and have one at both ends. I'll look into that. Oh, and yes, I don't think I'll be getting much use out of the square. ;)
Hey Stu! Making good progress. It's nice to have someone there with another perspective. I really need to get one of those needle grinders. Have a goodie.
Really enjoyed the drone footage, the needle gun footage, and the rest too, of course. Nice progress! Like others, I wondered why you didn't keep going with the angle grinder cut, but it turned out just fine.
@@DangarMarine, Yes, that will be the big payoff! In the meantime, keep focusing on the stuff that you won't be able to get to when the boat is in the water and the engine back in.
For sure. The current priority is all the hull repairs so that the new steel I add will also get sandblasted. After that it will cleaning and painting the engine bay before rewiring all the electrics. So much to do!
Definitely a lot of work, but you are making steady progress. Soon, the hull integrity stuff will be done, and the boat will be back in the water. Then you can take a break, and pick off smaller items as you see fit. Keep going! It's looking good!
Another great video, your making good progress with that little boat. I would give some consideration to cutting the door down the middle, I can see a few others have thrown that idea forward already.
Hi Stu just an idea regarding your door the piece of tube you cut out of the door if you had got a section of solid bar that fitted inside you could have made a slide bolt by tabbing it with a bit of plate so it slid between the door and the adjoining panel. Then just welded a locking plate on the door to prevent it sliding open while under way. Great video really enjoying this series on the steel boat.
This is one of the more brilliant series of posts I've encountered. Although I'm a landlubber from cheese land in Wisconsin, I'm a seaman at heart. That trawler is friggin' awesome! Hopefully well worth your money. Can't wait until it's all done, keep up the good work. Will you give tours with the thing? LOL. Keep up the good work. Go, my friend. Your RUclips channel is amazing.
Hi Stu, I like you keeping the video themed, helps understand the thinking of a project as it how you decide to do something is Hardest part but also the most interesting. To stop the hinge lifting un-intended I'm sure you will come up with a couple of plates to that will only allow lift when the door is say wide open. I think I might have made a narrower door but you may be moving some big stuff. Cheers Warren
I like the idea of only being able to lift it up when full open, nice one. Yes, we will be using this for moving bit items like washing machines and fridges to the island as well as getting the motor bike on and off so it needed to be big.
Dangar Marine thanks for clarifying , ( you did mention the motorcycle about 15:00) and when you lift off door lots of room to move in big items. , is the raised deck area for engine clearance ? Cheers Warren
Love the channel..☺.ok..I have been STUCK here Watching in Fascination how someone has the INFINITE patience's to just super intensely focus on one tiny project (When there is Clearly a year of work sitting there). and Finish it...and go...ok...Wiring next...and so on and so on...Kudos Sir!!!....and to your wife ..who has clearly by now left you..lol..J/k .
This is when making a test door out of scrap wood helps. Easy to chop and modify and then transfer design to steel once you happy with it. Much easier to test fit a light weight wood door than a lump of steel. If you get it wrong then just chuck it back in the waste pile and make another until you happy with it. A pair of split doors has a lot of advantages. More work to make but easier to move around when open. Could open outwards and lock back against existing structure. Doors completely out of the way.
Worked well for me probably because I change priorities on the job as necessary worked around welders & ship fitters building 1200t tuna seiners for 3 years Thanx from the left coast near the Krapitol of California
You could make an unequal hinge, longer arm at the bottom with the pivot point centre slightly offset out from the top, allows the door outer edge to rise at a rate to clear the deck. They do it with gates on sloping ground. The door will want to swing down under its own weight but you'd have a standing latch anyway on a boat. Just my two cents worth....... keep on keeping on, good stuff.
Hey Stu, Great vid. One of your best, and that's a high bar to jump. A couple of comments: a. Please retain Dave P as your chief design consultant, at whatever cost. His advice is invaluable. Hinging the door from the front was really your only option. A suicide door at sea not good. Also, that will likely be the door you use for diving in the future, so grabbing heights and a ladder for recovery will be part of the mix. b. I know some pedantic RUclipsrs have given you a hard time about workplace safety. I have to agree with them on this occasion. In one sequence you were grinding the door flat on trestles and your Lashes beer was vibrating and in imminent danger of falling off. Please take more care with your beer. c. Finally, boat restoration is a hot and tiring business, but please maintain your standards. At 28:35 I spotted a can of 4X Gold in the shot. This is not good. Always keep up your standards. Thanks Stu. Love your vids.
Over here we know them only by their power and the 2000W grinder is my go to tool for heavy cutting and even though I have an oxy-acetylene torch, I've never used it. I always use my plasma cutter or big grinder. 90% of grinder safety is planning your cut so that your grinder won't come at you if it grabs, sparks won't come at you and that the cutting disc doesn't get pinched. If the sparks don't come at you, you'll probably get away with those safety squints...lol
yeah it's not fun when they come into your eye with hypo needle and telling you not to move or blink while they drill our the metal piece, mine started rusting in my eye....
Strange that when I built a steel boat and wore safety googles, the metal pieces got past and into my eyes, and I was regularly at emergency and the eye clinic, now I only wear glasses and have no problem.
Agree here Stu, my spark welded to the surface of my eye. The hospital had to numb it and pick it off with a hypo needle, then bandage until the numbness wore off
Great video! My desires to restore an old metal boat vs a wood one have been dashed! What a tremendous amount of work. Will be so rewarding when finished though. Thank you for bringing us along on the adventure. Like others if I was closer I would seriously help with the endevour. Finally....like others have said.....GLASSES AND HEARING PROTECTION PLEASE. We want to keep watching you restore and not vids of you in the clinic 😝.
It is a fair bit of work, that's for sure. I think you need to do it because you enjoy the project. If you are just after the end result it would be a long arduous journey.
Must agree with splitting the door in two Make the hinges so the door can go back flush with the existing side framing. Giving clear access to after deck AND wheelhouse foredeck Closing them shut a fold over hasp that fits over the round top tube. The weight of it keeps it down and so closed.Amacf
did you think about cutting the door down the middle and hinging it on both sides?, that way it wont protrude as far into the boat when open and the hinges won't need to be holding as much weight
I also think duel split door is the way to go. Yes it is a little more work and a bit more cost but it will be more practicle and less stress on the rails overall.
Stu, get a mig welder as tig is too slow, you need two hands/ one for wire, one for hand peice, also tig will put too much heat into steel and warp it. Its usually used for small intricate stuff. Mig with inner core flux as shielding is best. Solid wire mig and gas will get blown away by the wind and give you porosity ( aero bar effect on the weld) love your channel and all the best with your build.
Haven't seen to the end yet so sorry if you solve the issue later on but what about a sliding bar in the round bar on the top for the latch. ( Like a bolt on the gun )
Hi Stu, On the boats I have worked on many swing the door outwards. This allows the door to lay flat alongside the bulwarks, out of the way and looks neat. The door will be very heavy when finished so another suggestion is when the door is made and if you're happy with it get it made out of aluminium. Is Bob Brownrigg still living in Little Wobby?
Hey mate, door hasn't progressed and further and I'm always happy to change if a better option comes along. Swinging outside does make sense, and as people have mentioned you can always open it before reaching the wharf if the pontoon is particularly high. Yep, Bob and Felicity are still there.
Great video! I’m not sure how heavy thAt door is. Also don’t know if it could be done. But did you think about piano hinging the door. Sort of like a bifold door. That away it doesn’t take up so much deck space when opened.
Thank you for your current upload your rebuild is very interesting I'm looking forward to your next instalment have a good week regards from a uk land lubber pom YAAAARG.😊
If you put a rod/slide bolt INSIDE the top rail. You can cut a key slot on the forward rail side before the door and the bolt will go into the door rail and can be locked down.
@@TonyRule also i saves spending more money. You can also straight cut the hand rail higher up with a grinder and slot in a flat piece of metal.. weld grind and your water proof the rail.
Nice video, when the drone went up thought you were going to get all arty on us. Then it zoomed in on Dangar island, looks nice. Had wondered why you were called Dangar Stu, thought perhaps you were dyslexic and couldn't spell danger or something. Keep up the great work and sharing
Hi there Stu, could you swing the door out so it could swing back outside the boat and could be latched open and you could leave it ooen or close it whenever you want. Its well out the way of anything on the deck then.
I am so addicted to these videos! I think all of your viewers feel like we have a vested interest in the final product. Great video and can’t wait to see what the hull looks like after it is sandblasted.
Thanks mate, I'm looking forward to the sandblasting too.
Nice job with the door fab and welding Stu. It’s good that you are making all of the improvements to the boat all now while on the hard. It beats having a wish list and never having the time to get it done when the boat is in use.
Hey Jack, yeah, it is good to get as much done as possible on the hard. I know there will still be heaps to do after it is back in the water but the less the better!
Best working on boats channel on RUclips today.
I really enjoy watching your videos while having my early Sunday morning coffee. Nevermind the negative comments, somebody somewhere is benefitting from this documented rebuild.
Just a quick note to let you know I am really enjoying the restoration videos of this boat
Nice Door mate!
I’ll never have a steel trawler but watching you work and make decisions about every little thing and thinking about them is enjoyable and encouraging.
You are doing great. It is nice to have a friend to talk things over with while you plan out your modifications. It is looking so sweet. I can't wait!
It certainly does help to have someone to bounce ideas off.
Thanks for the video, I enjoy watching how you work through solving problems, without just throwing money at it. A real credit to you, I know very little about boats but am learning
Clean cuts. Removing the paint from both sides before cutting with the acetylene torch makes the cut much cleaner. I usually used the needle gun first, then used the torch to burn off the remaining paint. Hitting the oxygen lever makes the paint burn off quickly. Finally a line scribed (scratched into the steel) that I could follow gave the best results. Thanks for the videos!
Great series. My wife and I are restoring a 100 year old 62x10 Dutch Barge for my father. Using twin Lynch electric motors to power it. It’s a massive project at the minute we are full time on it making good progress!
So, I'm watching this series for the first time and one thing I think you really need more of is your dog in the videos LOL.
Looking good. Consider the mechanism for keeping the door in the open position. If you need to keep it open on open water (man overboard, etc), you need to keep that heavy door from knocking you off the boat. Also consider the clearance at the bottom of the door, make sure it's perfect for wedging your foot to the floor (or not). Smooth sailing.
Good points about locking it open and not hitting your (probably bare) feet while out boating.
Nice work Stu. Those hinges are great to work with and you can put them one one of two ways. One is so the door is captured and can't be removed (other than cutting one hinge off) and the other would be so you could take the door off in case the need arises. All you have to do make sure the door doesn't fall off is have a small piece of rod welded welded above the hinge piece on the door so it can't lift up or a bolt going thru a nut that's welded to the frame so you can back the bolt out and allow the door to rise up.
I'd go with a drop bar or a barrel bolt, both simple and strong.
great video as always.........Mike
Awesome progress Stu. Great editing job too. Loved the drone footage. It's a nice way of showing your overseas viewers the paradise you live in. The boat has come a long way in such a short time. Now take the weekend off and go for a ride!
Thanks mate. Glad you liked the footage. It was actually interesting for me too to see the area from that angle.
@@DangarMarine cheers. Don't tell me you have sold the bike.....
Great video Stu, remember to shorten one of those hinge pins before welding. It'll make door hanging so much easier!
Good tip!
Love the drone footage of the boat from vertical as well as the boatyard and Dangar Island.
I love how nicely this boat is coming along. You are an excellent boat mechanic.
A project to be proud of. Good to see it coming on. Memories in the making.
a smaller piece of pipe that went inside the top rail, cut a slot and you have a massive pad bolt to lock the gate. Also if you intentionally mount the hinges out of whack , your gate will pivot and tilt up as it goes through 90 degrees. do the angles right and the bottom of the gate would clear the deck .
My first thought of the side sheet supports not being vertical is that they may have been set up to be vertical when the boat is in the water as most boats sit a bit stern down.
Hey Ron, yes it would be interesting to put a spirit level against them when the boat is floating again. I agree that style of bolt would be strong, but I fear it would have too many corrosion issues so I have elected to keep the top railings sealed from water. Angling the hinges could be a good option too but it would still need the freeing port so I'm not sure it is necessary. Of course in the end I'll probably just get lazy and put a chain across it. ;)
She is going to be a famous boat when she is sat in the water again. Many of us will look at her affectionately, knowing what's gone into her. Again and as always, bravo 👏👏👏
Thanks mate. I can't wait for the maiden voyage!
Living the dream mate. Dust heat and hard work you can't beat it. Great job Pat yourself on the back. Glued to your effort and progress👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I just love this project. Great to see you do your stuff and not afraid to show things that did not go so well in the first go too. Just a very honest and open video. keep it up.
Enjoying the video production enhancements, Stu. The longer format works well too, Cheerio.
Ditch the oxy torch and use the plasma cutter on a straight edge. You can even make your own straight edges to follow a contoured shape. Cuts better, reduces heat warpage and gets rid of a whole load of grinding. Love watching the progress and there’s something hypnotic about the needle gun time lapse.
Hello Buddy, If I may ; Say, it looks like that new door is bowed, just a reminder to keep those hinges in line, which will make them look crooked on the door , but work well and go on and off easier. cool job!
Great job mate n your consideration about dust n noise for other people is Brilliant what many people lack now days waiting for the next video
The aerial view was great, it’s a lovely part of the world that you hide out in..
You're doing a great job, just a couple of little tips.
When cutting vertical with a grinder, hold it 90 degrees to your right. The sparks will go past you, not on to you. You will be more protected by the guard if the wheel decides to disintegrate, and if the grinder "kicks back" it will be in to air, not your face... Also keep all flammable materials away, thinners, petrol ext.
Second thing , the oxy will cut through paint no worries, you do not need to grind the paint off before, it's enough heat to burn steel, it will burn paint.
The Aussie Allrounder!
Boats a nice Shape from above.
Beauty DM, Great Episode.
Thanks Jono!
Nice pass through! Hinging on the bow side does make more sense it’s coming along nicely fairly soon you can set sail and enjoy your new home away from home ! SKOL BUD !
one suggestion, When cutting hold the torch at about a 30 degree angle into the work. It will cut easier. Don't be afraid to give it plenty of gas and O2 running roughly 5-8 lbs on the gas side and what works well on the O2 side. Did you think of 2 smaller doors turning in? It would have fixed the spacing issues so the doors would have taken up less space. I wish we were closer, I'd love to come and help, I'm retired but I still love to build stuff! Thanks from Virginia USA
Hey Bob. I'm going to try it as one piece for a while as I can always chop it in two later if the one piece design doesn't work out so well. Thanks for the oxy tips!
Home engineering - it's great, even the dog had a thought on which way the door should swing. As they say in the classics " I'm lovin' every minute of it "
here you are ! oopf . I was busy working and did not want to miss any of your jobs, you little blessing. Lord bless you!
it is awesome
Hey Stu...excellent and engrossing video again.....Loved the discussion of Design.....the "back and forth"....the discussion of user experience....soo important on boats....you have taught me so much about working in steel.....(woodwork guy).......when Eddie stuck his head out of the wheel house I laughed my a** off!.......can't wait to see your next one mate....good work......good luck with the haircuts!
If you hinge the aft end of the door to open inwards, stand the hinges off by a couple of inches then the whole will swing back parallel to the remaining bulwark. A spring loaded bolt with a striker plate forward and another aft for when stowed and jobs a good un. Acess both for and aft is then maximised and your door is always secured out of harms way.
Great work, great vids keep em coming.
Great progress Stu. I know you agonised about the door top rail, and any imperfection. Epoxy filler, sand and paint.
Nice work mate, addicted to the progress!!
Had me going for a while until you figured out how to mark up the door. Looking forward to the next vid.
I'm too used to house building where everything is square and plumb. It's such a different way of thinking on boats.
I look forward to these vids every week.
Nice one stu, she is starting to come back together, not be long before she is back in the water
6:10, love the aerial shots. What a beautiful part of the world to go boating in!
Nice job mate...all coming along well, Love the drone footage too. Very cool. Once again we witnessed the great man DP adding his invaluable advice and design tips, not unlike the time he assisted in re-configuring the Green Machine during it's 2016 face-lift. Keep going mate, you are flying now ! Bring on the sand blasting :)
Thanks mate. Dave's contribution did remind me of the Green Machine refit too. Sandblasting may be happening this week. I'm getting nervous!
@@DangarMarine don't worry about those nightmares where the sand blaster blows a hole in the side of the hull..plenty of steel there still :) she'll be right
Yeah, I figure I'd rather find any problem on the hardstand than at sea. Just poured myself a glass of red and about to start reading that book that your dad gave me. A fine Sunday afternoon! :)
@@DangarMarine Great title
I have owned a few boat in my day boats are like house's and farms there's all ways some thing need to be dun to them i just in joy watching these shows and can't wait for the next one i would love to have you as my neighbor Stu
You can use the round tube on the top as a latch . Get some tube that fits inside . Cut a slot in the door and make a slide bolt in it . Easy done and big and strong .
You've inspired me to get on and get stuff done on the camper - sure, no relation to your boat, but a project of mine and you're doing things in parallel on your project while I'm taking breaks and doing one thing at a time...no wonder its been going on for 6 months now....
It doesn't matter what the project is, it's always good to have a bit of motivation. :)
I think the real descion is xxxx gold, coppers red or 150 lashes. Enjoying the build videos look forward to the next.
I am enjoying this boat build. I luv the Hawkesbury having been a long term resident going back 50 years at MYOBB
Stu, I can't help but say it again: another great episode. Love the longer format too, more please...
The time lapse needle gunning vision is oddly satisfying.
Looks great, so handy and safer to access. Be careful on the set up with hinges etc regards pinch points, you might notice the relief angles typically required on transom doors due to the thickness and hinge placement. Personally I'd make a staino track for a composite/glass drop board to go into... but that's me;) Doing a great job on a very neat style of boat, awesome to watch!
I like the way you charge every task , keep up your hard work
Stu, Another trick is to put a thin copper sheet under that rust patch & weld over it, the weld won't stick to the copper. Use copper pipe to rebuild & re-weld flogged out round holes.
Yes, that saves a lot of time. Use the TIG to fill in the missing metal. Don't waste time making the job bigger than it has to be. Remember there are usually two types of boatie, one that works on boats and one that has them on the water. Cheers
Aluminium works too.
Thanks for another really interesting video. Spent my day hanging drywall (gypsum board) for a bathroom remodel in an old, very out-of-square house. Watching your video, trying to decide if I'd rather weld, grind and fit metal or cut, mud, sand and fit drywall.
It just amazes me on the task you take on... then conquer.. as I’ve said before thank you for taking us on the journey with you 👍👍👍👍
Being stubborn has its uses. ;)
Really liked the drone footage!
Just an observation. I don't know how far away that white center console is but I am thinking it should be covered. As you grind and cut you are sending little bits of metal into the air and the wind is whisking them away. I would be willing to bet that if you climbed into that little white boat it will be covered with little speckled rusty spots. As those shavings rust they stick to the gelcoat of other boats. I've seen this many times in boat yards and it can be costly to clean up and fix. I don't mean to nit pick, I love your videos, this has been a fun adventure. ~ Mike, Coast of Maine.
Good point, I should double check it as it does belong to a mate. :O
Hello from Detroit Stu. Always remember... a grinder and paint makes us the welders we ain't. A lot of people are suggesting a barrel bolt in the top rail,seems like a good/easy solution. I was thinking of a cam and lever with rods as dogs on the edges and bottom of your NWTD. Thanks for posting.
Another great video Stu! Awesome progress, this is a great series!
Congrats, you've become my first Patreon sponsored creator! Keep up the great videos :)
Thanks mate, really appreciate your support and hope you get much joy from the videos. :)
Dangar Stu - fuelled by improv and beer. Luv it.
Steady as she goes Stu .Would have loved to see that door mounted this vid , but not complaining and i think in the end you are swinging it the right way . keep up the good work , can't wait for the next one . PS enjoyed that drone footage and the sense of country around you .
If you use a long hinge made from small pipe welded vertically and then drop a long rod with a top handle for pulling it up using a hinge on either side you can fully remove and swing it either direction. The length would give it strength and plastic bushings would allow it to slide in and out with ease. Cheap, strong and easy. Stainless material would keep corrosion away if you chose. Grease zerts would also make it swing easy. Boats are always a learning curve. As the old saying goes, Never met a shipwright with a square. Take care. Doug
It is tempting to go a long pipe hinge, and have one at both ends. I'll look into that. Oh, and yes, I don't think I'll be getting much use out of the square. ;)
Hey Stu! Making good progress. It's nice to have someone there with another perspective. I really need to get one of those needle grinders. Have a goodie.
Really enjoyed the drone footage, the needle gun footage, and the rest too, of course.
Nice progress!
Like others, I wondered why you didn't keep going with the angle grinder cut, but it turned out just fine.
Thanks Tony, does feel like it is starting to get there now. Can't wait to get it back in the water!
@@DangarMarine, Yes, that will be the big payoff!
In the meantime, keep focusing on the stuff that you won't be able to get to when the boat is in the water and the engine back in.
For sure. The current priority is all the hull repairs so that the new steel I add will also get sandblasted. After that it will cleaning and painting the engine bay before rewiring all the electrics. So much to do!
Definitely a lot of work, but you are making steady progress. Soon, the hull integrity stuff will be done, and the boat will be back in the water. Then you can take a break, and pick off smaller items as you see fit.
Keep going! It's looking good!
Loved the drone footage 👍 keep up the good work
Another great video, your making good progress with that little boat. I would give some consideration to cutting the door down the middle, I can see a few others have thrown that idea forward already.
Hi Stu just an idea regarding your door the piece of tube you cut out of the door if you had got a section of solid bar that fitted inside you could have made a slide bolt by tabbing it with a bit of plate so it slid between the door and the adjoining panel. Then just welded a locking plate on the door to prevent it sliding open while under way.
Great video really enjoying this series on the steel boat.
Great vid Stu, love the wide-angle drone shots.
This is one of the more brilliant series of posts I've encountered. Although I'm a landlubber from cheese land in Wisconsin, I'm a seaman at heart. That trawler is friggin' awesome! Hopefully well worth your money. Can't wait until it's all done, keep up the good work. Will you give tours with the thing? LOL. Keep up the good work. Go, my friend. Your RUclips channel is amazing.
Thanks Scott, glad you are enjoying the vids. First coat of paint should be going on the hull next week. That will be a sight for sore eyes! :)
Hi Stu, I like you keeping the video themed, helps understand the thinking of a project as it how you decide to do something is Hardest part but also the most interesting. To stop the hinge lifting un-intended I'm sure you will come up with a couple of plates to that will only allow lift when the door is say wide open. I think I might have made a narrower door but you may be moving some big stuff. Cheers Warren
I like the idea of only being able to lift it up when full open, nice one. Yes, we will be using this for moving bit items like washing machines and fridges to the island as well as getting the motor bike on and off so it needed to be big.
Dangar Marine thanks for clarifying , ( you did mention the motorcycle about 15:00) and when you lift off door lots of room to move in big items. , is the raised deck area for engine clearance ? Cheers Warren
Love the channel..☺.ok..I have been STUCK here Watching in Fascination how someone has the INFINITE patience's to just super intensely focus on one tiny project (When there is Clearly a year of work sitting there). and Finish it...and go...ok...Wiring next...and so on and so on...Kudos Sir!!!....and to your wife ..who has clearly by now left you..lol..J/k .
Thanks for watching!
The drone footage is stupendous.
This is when making a test door out of scrap wood helps. Easy to chop and modify and then transfer design to steel once you happy with it. Much easier to test fit a light weight wood door than a lump of steel. If you get it wrong then just chuck it back in the waste pile and make another until you happy with it.
A pair of split doors has a lot of advantages. More work to make but easier to move around when open. Could open outwards and lock back against existing structure. Doors completely out of the way.
Even heavy cardboard works for templates.
Worked well for me probably because I change priorities on the job as necessary worked around welders & ship fitters building 1200t tuna seiners for 3 years
Thanx from the left coast near the Krapitol of California
You could make an unequal hinge, longer arm at the bottom with the pivot point centre slightly offset out from the top, allows the door outer edge to rise at a rate to clear the deck. They do it with gates on sloping ground. The door will want to swing down under its own weight but you'd have a standing latch anyway on a boat. Just my two cents worth....... keep on keeping on, good stuff.
Hey Stu, Great vid. One of your best, and that's a high bar to jump.
A couple of comments:
a. Please retain Dave P as your chief design consultant, at whatever cost. His advice is invaluable. Hinging the door from the front was really your only option. A suicide door at sea not good. Also, that will likely be the door you use for diving in the future, so grabbing heights and a ladder for recovery will be part of the mix.
b. I know some pedantic RUclipsrs have given you a hard time about workplace safety. I have to agree with them on this occasion. In one sequence you were grinding the door flat on trestles and your Lashes beer was vibrating and in imminent danger of falling off. Please take more care with your beer.
c. Finally, boat restoration is a hot and tiring business, but please maintain your standards. At 28:35 I spotted a can of 4X Gold in the shot. This is not good. Always keep up your standards.
Thanks Stu. Love your vids.
All your points are entirely valid. ;)
Best comment so far...lol
Paul G , love it ,great comment
Stu if you're not careful the alcohol wast not want not board ,will be on you,,,, there way worse than the EPA,,,,
All very good points but there is nothing wrong with 4x gold
"Don't make things square, make 'em dance to the music" - lesson for Life there!
Greetings from Liverpool, great vids. Liked the drone work. Keep em coming buddy
Grinding/Cutting safety glasses a MUST. I've had metal in my eye Stu and its NOT fun!!!
You should have engaged your 'safety squints' haha
Over here we know them only by their power and the 2000W grinder is my go to tool for heavy cutting and even though I have an oxy-acetylene torch, I've never used it. I always use my plasma cutter or big grinder. 90% of grinder safety is planning your cut so that your grinder won't come at you if it grabs, sparks won't come at you and that the cutting disc doesn't get pinched. If the sparks don't come at you, you'll probably get away with those safety squints...lol
yeah it's not fun when they come into your eye with hypo needle and telling you not to move or blink while they drill our the metal piece, mine started rusting in my eye....
Strange that when I built a steel boat and wore safety googles, the metal pieces got past and into my eyes, and I was regularly at emergency and the eye clinic, now I only wear glasses and have no problem.
Agree here Stu, my spark welded to the surface of my eye. The hospital had to numb it and pick it off with a hypo needle, then bandage until the numbness wore off
Eddieeeeee!! Love ol Ed cameos. Great job, disjointed or not, love these vids!!
Great video! My desires to restore an old metal boat vs a wood one have been dashed! What a tremendous amount of work. Will be so rewarding when finished though. Thank you for bringing us along on the adventure. Like others if I was closer I would seriously help with the endevour. Finally....like others have said.....GLASSES AND HEARING PROTECTION PLEASE. We want to keep watching you restore and not vids of you in the clinic 😝.
It is a fair bit of work, that's for sure. I think you need to do it because you enjoy the project. If you are just after the end result it would be a long arduous journey.
Must agree with splitting the door in two
Make the hinges so the door can go back flush with the existing side framing.
Giving clear access to after deck AND wheelhouse foredeck
Closing them shut a fold over hasp that fits over the round top tube. The weight of it keeps it down and so closed.Amacf
Love the drone footage - not hard to see why you enjoy boating!
did you think about cutting the door down the middle and hinging it on both sides?, that way it wont protrude as far into the boat when open and the hinges won't need to be holding as much weight
Exactly what I thought, and I'd hinge it outwards with catches to hold it open.
@@ji6050 I just read his comment like 5 times and couldn't see any mention of it hitting anything, wait, let me check again...... Nope, nothing there.
@@ji6050 why am i a smart ass? i didn't say anything nasty or smart at all, just a suggestion dude
...
I also think duel split door is the way to go. Yes it is a little more work and a bit more cost but it will be more practicle and less stress on the rails overall.
Gary Baris he did say there are some mooring points that are above the deck line preventing the door(s) from opening out
Stu, get a mig welder as tig is too slow, you need two hands/ one for wire, one for hand peice, also tig will put too much heat into steel and warp it. Its usually used for small intricate stuff. Mig with inner core flux as shielding is best. Solid wire mig and gas will get blown away by the wind and give you porosity ( aero bar effect on the weld) love your channel and all the best with your build.
Yes, would love to buy a MIG one day, just need the cash...
@@DangarMarine fair call bud.. Your doing great...
Beautiful area!
Another great video. Always looking forward to your next video. Keep up the good work, from USA Central Florida. 👌
Great job, you will have a fine boat when you're done!
Haven't seen to the end yet so sorry if you solve the issue later on but what about a sliding bar in the round bar on the top for the latch. ( Like a bolt on the gun )
Could be a problem long-term with corrosion
I was thinking the same thing. Could weld in a blind stainless sleeve in the top tube so water can get in. Would be very strong.
Nice work mate! Makes me want to film and show my rebuild!
Hi Stu, On the boats I have worked on many swing the door outwards. This allows the door to lay flat alongside the bulwarks, out of the way and looks neat. The door will be very heavy when finished so another suggestion is when the door is made and if you're happy with it get it made out of aluminium. Is Bob Brownrigg still living in Little Wobby?
Hey mate, door hasn't progressed and further and I'm always happy to change if a better option comes along. Swinging outside does make sense, and as people have mentioned you can always open it before reaching the wharf if the pontoon is particularly high. Yep, Bob and Felicity are still there.
I sorta feel like flying to Australia and helping you with this thing for a week or so.. It would be a considered a Vacation for me..🤣😁
Do it. You only live once!
i was thinking the same thing as my son lives in Melbourne
Me too, I would love to help!
Me to, I`m really up for it, what a blast.
Already a boat building project going like like. Built by RUclips volunteers.
Oh you got a drone, awesome views. One of these days may get one but not sure if it will work for fishing? May scare the fish away
Not my drone unfortunately. Belongs to my friend who had the timber trawler in the video where I first went on the hard stand.
Great video! I’m not sure how heavy thAt door is. Also don’t know if it could be done. But did you think about piano hinging the door. Sort of like a bifold door. That away it doesn’t take up so much deck space when opened.
Thank you for your current upload your rebuild is very interesting I'm looking forward to your next instalment have a good week regards from a uk land lubber pom YAAAARG.😊
If you put a rod/slide bolt INSIDE the top rail. You can cut a key slot on the forward rail side before the door and the bolt will go into the door rail and can be locked down.
That's what I'd do with a long stroke and a tapered pin so it self-aligns because it WILL sag over time.
@@TonyRule also i saves spending more money. You can also straight cut the hand rail higher up with a grinder and slot in a flat piece of metal.. weld grind and your water proof the rail.
Nice video, when the drone went up thought you were going to get all arty on us. Then it zoomed in on Dangar island, looks nice. Had wondered why you were called Dangar Stu, thought perhaps you were dyslexic and couldn't spell danger or something. Keep up the great work and sharing
Hi there Stu, could you swing the door out so it could swing back outside the boat and could be latched open and you could leave it ooen or close it whenever you want. Its well out the way of anything on the deck then.
Yes, having it stored out of the way on the outside of the boat would be a good way to go.
I'm rooting for you! I look forward to each video! I I am there with you in spirit! Grind on! :)
Great work Stu i like watching you work cheers