2nd Coat of Black Pine Tar on Exterior Cedar Siding for Matte Finish
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Looking for a more matte finish when working with Authentic Black Pine Tar?
This video offers some helpful suggestions to do just that.
Join @Earthandflaxstudio in Philadelphia, PA on-site for the 2nd coat of Authentic Black Pine Tar and Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil on kiln dried cedar siding.
Still have questions?
Email info@earthandflax.com with additional application or product questions.
Materials used on this project:
Black Pine Tar
www.earthandfl...
Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil
www.earthandfl...
100mm Anza Natural Bristle Brush
www.earthandfl...
Cedar sourced from Medford Cedar
medfordcedar.com/
Video by Rocco Avallone.
www.roccoavall...
![Authentic Pine Tar Application Suggestions: Black Pine Tar on Exterior Barn Siding [FULL]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ossw4knnbMQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Eminem - Fuel (Shady Edition) feat. Westside Boogie & GRIP [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k1OquBida9s/mqdefault.jpg)
That came out great! I will definitely be putting a second coat on my barn in the spring. Thanks for the inspiration!
Agreed, just brings up the color intensity and protection up a notch! Looking forward to seeing more of your barn project soon.
It came out great ! Pine tar is my favorite wood finish. I did a teak table a few years back and it achieved a beautiful brown with golden highlights.
Great to hear Matt!
I just discovered your channel and I m so glad I did!! Your work is simply amazing!!! I m really looking forward to more videos with tips and tricks from you!
Great to hear! Reach out anytime with questions.
Fantastic vids! Appreicate the knowledge. I am planning on using this on yakisugi siding that is well burned to prolong the life and look of the wood. Excited to try it out!
Glad you enjoyed! Yes, we have had customers who char the siding and apply the Purified Linseed Oil or Pine Tar mixture, as well as folks who skip the char completely and go straight to the Pine Tar. I recommend you do a few tests to decide on what works best for your project. Feel free to reach out via info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
Amazing work! These videos are great. Would love to see more!
Great to hear! Hopefully more vids soon.
Lovely. Nice demonstration work. Thanks.
Great to hear it was helpful Leigh.
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Please come back on the subject of BLO versus Pure raw. Except from the viscosity aspect of it.
Is 8-10 years between coats true? Do you, or the manufacturer, have pics or videos of what it looks like 5-6-7-8 years after application? It still causes water to bead up? Traditional semitransparent stain typically needs reapplied every 3-4-5 years depending on exposure.
The timeframe for maintenance and reapplication for the Pine Tar finishes can certainly vary based on the quality of the wood that you start with and level of exposure or traffic (for a deck for example). As long as the substrate has a good oil content to start and two-three coats of Pine Tar are applied, in most cases, maintenance in the 8-10 range is reasonable. Visually, it will begin to matte out over time but a matte finish will offer many years of protection. If the wood is very dry to start with, an extra coat within the first few years may be very helpful. Then you begin that 8-10 year maintenance plan. We have a fence here at the shop with one coat of the Red Pine Tar we did in 2018. Cheapest pine available at the big box hardware store and it is looking great. No rot or deterioration. Just looking dry so probably ready for another coat. Hope to do a maintenance video with it soon so you can see condition and what maintenance would look like wish such a simple/rather low quality substrate type. It is helpful to check in on projects and the new stuff always gets the attention. Stay tuned.
Do you ever add some gum turpentine to your pine tar mix? I started this to speed up the drying time. Not sure if it's correct.
Great question - I do not recommend using solvents, even natural solvents if you can avoid it. If you use a high-quality Purified Linseed Oil, it increases moisture protection and thins the Pine Tar for application - excellent combination of products. You can use a high-quality gum turpentine and it can speed dry time a bit. Completely up to you but definitely use solvents with care as they are not good for our fatty little brains. Hope this is helpful - reach out to info@earthandflax.com with any additional questions.
@@Earthandflaxstudio Thank you for the info.
Thank you for a great video! Is there a way to colorize this paint somehow?
To make it more red, more green, etc.. Maybe flaxseed oil paint or something?
On my 2nd coat on 10000 sf knotty pine clapboard, the TarNoil has developed or presented a skin of sorts. In cleaning with a metal scrubbie pre-application at the most weathered parts, we’re removing the “skin” a lot. Wondering if you have thoughts. Maybe I applied too much the first time? Tx
Hmm a skin on the boards? That can really only be from way too much Pine Tar mixture is being applied to the wood surface. This is Auson Pine Tar? Send me a pic so I can see what you are working with and we can strategize: info@earthandflax.com.
can you mix it thicker so that it "seals" small cracks in a shed wall?
I would do the 50/50 or similar ratio to start as many small cracks will self-heal as the wood soaks in the Pine Tar/Purified Linseed Oil. You can go higher but a thicker more viscous mixture will take a long time to dry and have a harder time soaking into the wood substrate. Small cracks and holes are typically not an issue but for anything larger, I recommend filling with a similar species of wood if you can. Using wood shims or dowels (for circular holes) is like a Dutchman repair. Once installed, a wood shim will move with the wood during seasonal changes and soak in the Pine Tar mixture nicely, creating a more even finish. Hope that make sense. Feel free to reach out with additional questions.
you mentioned the client wanting a yakisabi (am i even close on the spelling) burnt finish *look*... do you have any input regarding them not going with that finish & opting for pine tar? i've watched a few instructional things regarding the burning & it's generally followed with an oil which seems awfully flammable... is there any middle ground of finishing actual burnt finish with pine tar seal? thanks for your great work... i hope you thrive & thrive...
`sorry, ramble ramble, i guess obviously, is there any benefit to combining pine tar & susugiban (sp?!) AND is there any downside to going shiny vs. matte AND could the mixture be sprayed?
@@esaeelljae There is no real benefit to scorching or burning the wood before applying the Pine Tar mixture. A matte finish is usually a design preference and I would usually recommend at least 2 coats, more if the wood is super dry, and that would bring up the shine a bit. A Pine Tar finish will matte out as it ages and the shine would return a bit when you maintain with oil in the years to come. I do not recommend spraying Pine Tar as a lot of product is wasted and it is very difficult to achieve thin, even coats.
@@esaeelljae Thanks for reaching out. Shou sugi ban or yakisugi, the Japanese tradition of burning or scorching wood has become pretty popular these days but requires a good quality timber with lots of natural resins/oils to get a good result. Yes, you can certainly apply Purified Linseed Oil or the Pine Tar mixture to a scorched surface but that is a lot of extra labor when the Pine Tar mixture creates a very similar looking finish/color. The scorching creates some cool surface texture although a lot of folks wire brush it quite smooth. Purified linseed oil-based products are not combustible/flammable in the can or when applied to a surface. Linseed oil is a self-heating oil (heats as it dries) like rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, peanut and corn oil, etc. Simply dampen and dispose of oil soaked rags, crumpled paper towels, etc. to avoid a fire hazard
brilliant! thanks for an absolute ton of clarity... `sorry `i am slow in noticing your reply...
Great video thanks
Great to hear!
@@Earthandflaxstudio you should make some more remodeling and construction videos, I’m just starting on RUclips I do full remodels I like seeing what other people do
Beauty finish! Between the pine tar and Falu paint, which one would provide the best weather resistance?
Glad you enjoyed! Both finishes have a long history of use but I recommend the Pine Tar as there is just nothing better for exterior wood preservation/protection that the naturally occurring resins and terpenes from the pine stumps with the moisture protection of the Purified Linseed Oil. Just an excellent combination!
@@Earthandflaxstudio my house has falu black, could pine tar be used on top of it or would I have to start again?
@@TinaBianca-hx8fc The Pine Tar manufacturer says yes, you can apply over the traditional Falu pigment paint. Ensure the surface is clean and clear of loose particulate before application. We recommend a petrochemical-free cleanser like Linseed Oil Soap if needed. Rinse well and let dry fully. Once you transition to Pine Tar, it is probably best to stick with that material combination vs. going back to Falu pigment. Hope this is helpful!
Where does Viking get it's ingredients for paint, glazing wax, are they from Sweden? Where can I buy Dana Lim glazing for a reasonable price. Solvent free was $50 a 5kg tub last time, any place in the US cheaper?
Most of the products are imported from Sweden or parts of Europe. We carry the DANA on www.earthandflax.com for $49.50 and a 2 pack for $79 (a $20 savings). Maybe someone will make a real Linseed Oil Putty with no petrochemical additives in North America someday - that would being the price down.
The thing I don't understand is that Scandinavian WindowCraft's (in Sweden) price (including air shipping) for Dana Lim putty 2 pack is less than buying it from you or Solvent Free. That shouldn't be the case.
Your 2 pack price should be substantially less than me buying a single 2 pack from Sweden. I'm in Connecticut. It's also interesting that your price is the same as Solventfree.com.
@@richardmckrell4899 If you are able to source it cheaper from Sweden, then certainly feel free to do so. They may get a more competitive rate as DANA is easily accessible in Sweden. Shipping 2 tubs of putty in the mail is a very different prospect than importing pallets of product from Europe. Our online prices are the best we can offer at this time. Although we are separate companies, I work with the folks at solventfreepaint.com as they have been a great resource for the traditional materials for 15+ years. Even help them seasonally when they receive and process flax oil from North Dakota to make the Viking Purified Linseed Oil. Exciting stuff if you're a linseed oil nerd! Let me know if any additional questions come up.
@@Earthandflaxstudio @@Earthandflaxstudio Considering your supplier is buying in bulk, your price for Dana Lim putty should not be more than if I buy just a 2 pack from a retailer in Sweden. Your shipping is also too high, especially when comparing shipping costs from Sweden. $25 to ship $80 worth of putty is too much. If you offer a longer shipping time (instead of 2 day priority), USPS can get the shipping cost down to $17.
@@richardmckrell4899 Thank you for your feedback. Pricing increases or decreases will be reflected directly on the website if anything changes. We always do our best to refund any excess shipping whenever possible. 2 x DANA Putty would be shipped via UPS based on weight. In all likelihood it would be in the $20-$25 range with handling. We can always do a shipping estimate for you to compare rates before you order with an accurate shipping address. Reach out anytime.
Shou sugi ban: I would see the advantage if put into earth or if pine tar not available ? Also: isn’t better for insect repellent ?
I was a little confused about the various recommendations for applying the Auson pine tar, so I reached out to Auson directly and they replied by saying they recommend using Gum Turpentine and did not recommend linseed oil as there is the potential to develop mold. I'm not a chemist and I understand many distributors of Auson in the US recommend thinning with Linseed oil, but can you comment on the mold issue? Thanks!
Thanks for reaching out and great to hear you are interested in Authentic Pine Tar. We recommend a high quality purified/degummed linseed oil that does not propagate mold/mildew and compliments the properties of the Pine Tar. You can use a good quality gum turpentine to thin the Pine Tar as well but it is a solvent and we avoid solvents, even natural solvents, whenever possible. The Purified Linseed Oil not only acts as a thinner but also improves moisture protection in the wood. Great combination for exterior wood surface protection/preservation. Feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
Hello What's the difference between boiled Linseed oil & Purified? Also have you tried Pine Tar / Turpentine 50/50% ratio? Thanks for Video- Jack
Hi Jack, Great question. So we only work with linseed oil that has been naturally purified/degummed i.e. the food value has been removed so various and often unsavory additives found in most conventional linseed oil are unnecessary. I have a great explanation on the brands we carry and the differences on our FAQ page. I'll add below and if it's too long I'll share the link.
What is the difference between the Purified Linseed Oil options?
Practices and opinions vary on the processing of Purified Linseed Oil, as well as what is truly considered a raw linseed oil vs. a boiled linseed oil.
The distinctions listed below are chosen by Earth+Flax to clarify the proper use of these products for the US market.
Ottosson/Allback Boiled Linseed Oil:
This is a purified/degummed linseed oil made from Ottosson Raw Linseed Oil. It is heated at a lower temp for an extended period of time, creating a drying linseed oil with a larger molecular structure.
It is a primary ingredient in Ottosson/Allback Linseed Oil Paint.
As a result of this process, it is excellent for creating a "primer" when painting interior trim for example (30% Linseed Oil Paint to 70% Ottosson Boiled Linseed Oil) on a bare wood surface. The Ottosson Boiled Linseed Oil offers a slightly faster dry time in comparison to the Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil.
Viking Purified Raw Linseed:
Some, especially some Swedes, may argue that this is a boiled linseed oil as it is a heated, drying oil. It is made from food-grade flax oil from North Dakota. Once purified/degummed in Upstate NY, it is then heated once to 400+ degrees, resulting in a smaller molecular structure in comparison to a traditional boiled linseed oil. The end result is an exceptionally pale oil with superior penetrative properties. A very versatile oil, this product can be used with the Authentic Pine Tar, to create a custom Linseed Oil Stain, or used alone as an interior/exterior finish.
Ottosson or Allback Raw Linseed Oil:
This is a purified/degummed linseed oil that is typically left to settle out for a season or two outside. It is heated by the sun. It has a small molecular structure, excellent penetration, but a very, very long dry time.
At Earth+Flax, we prefer folks to use this option, when available, with some caution as when mixed with Linseed Oil Paint for example, it will extend dry time excessively.
This traditional "Swedish" raw linseed oil, as we may refer to it, is excellent for storing paint brushes in (wipe off any excess raw oil before painting again) or for applying to wood before removing paint with an infrared paint remover.
Wow ! That’s the biggest freaking CANDLE I ever saw!
The Pine Tar mixture is not flammable or combustible in the can or on the wall but an exceptional exterior wood preservative with a long history of use. Linseed Oil is a self-heating oil and a fire hazard if left in crumpled rags/paper towels. Dampen and dispose of rags to avoid any issue. Hope this is helpful. Let me know if any additional questions come up.
can you use this for furniture inside the house
Pine Tar is really an exterior finish. For interior application such as furniture, I recommend a black Linseed Oil Stain. Mix any Linseed Oil Paint color with the Purified Linseed Oil to create a stain. Customize the ratio based on personal preference. More oil, means more transparency of course. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
@@Earthandflaxstudio have you tried Pine Tar with Olive oil ? Does it work ?
@@SuperAmazingAnt No, I would avoid a food-grade oil. A good quality purified/degummed linseed oil is ideal. Hope that is helpful - let em know what additional questions come up.
Excellent video...
I sent you an email with a question about my siding... thanks in advance
Which way to the gun show!!!
To your left, sir.
This is what the Nthn Europeans used on boat hulls alone. Lost tradition!?
Yes, Pine Tar has such a long history of use, especially in the marine industry. Old wooden sailing vessels used to use Pine Tar on the wood and on their ropes/rigging, etc. Pretty cool!
Don’t know who taught her to mix but didn’t teach it well or she didn’t learn well. I would mix the amount needed in individual gallon containers and take to paint store and ask them to mix it on paint shaker and then right before using, do a figure eight movement from side to side making sure you are incorporating from the bottom to the top - pine tar is heavy and difficult to mix well into the linseed oil. It may take 10-12+ minutes of hand mixing. If not mixed well, you will end up with some areas heavy linseed and not as good a coverage and then as you get lower in the container, you have the thick heavy pine tar. For even coverage so you get a consistent matte finish, you need it evenly mixed and do so every few hours as the pine tar will continue to sink. If you are going to be doing a large project ...fence or building, rent a paint shaker. There are ones for gallon and 5 gallon containers and the paint store can sell you gallon containers for small amount of money.
Another option is to buy a paint paddle that fits like a heavy duty drill but still needs at least 10 minutes. The wider the paddle the better just make sure it fits the can or buckets. I like gallons also because you don’t have the mixture exposed to the air . In between sessions, wrap your brush in several layers of PressnSeal then a layer of foil and put in freezer...not the frig but the freezer. Take it out about 15-30 minutes to come up to temp then unwrap to use. I did this for years with oil paint - still do. When done with project, you can clean the brush carefully, dry and work purified oil well into the bristles and wood handle and wrap bristles in paper or fabric and hang with bristles downward. If you still have the outer original wrapping, use that on the outside. Note: if you have used water with a linseed soap etc - make sure the brush is very dry several days before very lightly oiling with purified linseed and wrapping. Work the oil on your fingers and then into the bristles. Think like if you had long hair and were oiling it. You wouldn’t do it with your hair wet, nor would you soak the hair or you’d have a greasy mess. You would work the oil into your fingertips and lightly work through to the scalp and to the ends. Same with natural bristles used for oil paint, or in this case (linseed and pine tar). Make sure you are using top quality of both.
Never ever ever store with bristles down in a jar or can as the bristles will be distorted. Nor lay them flat either as something inevitably will get laid on them. It will ruin them.
Note: you can only do the freezer trick with oil paint...acrylic or any water based, freezing will just ruin the brush and paint will dry and flake off into your paint and surface.
Thank you for your comments and sharing your own suggestions for working the Authentic Pine Tar.
Mixing the Pine Tar and Purified Linseed Oil well is very important, as well as mixing once in awhile during the application process and before each use. We did our best to cover this concisely in the video and video voiceover.
In the next Pine Tar vid we will try to add more on the topic.
People can get frustrated cleaning the Pine Tar and Purified Linseed Oil from their brushes as it is considerably more stubborn in comparison to the Linseed Oil Paint. I’m sure many will find your brush cleaning technique helpful.
Here he is...the youtube know-it-all in his natural habitat. Don’t get too close or they will tell you that you’re doing it wrong and proceed explain why the way he does it is better. These creatures can be observed in various environments across the internet, but do tend to congregate around videos related to construction, painting, or DIY home repair. Interesting mammals indeed.
I can't wait to see the video that rosebudforglory is suggesting. Ten to twelve minutes of Natalie mixing pine tar, pouring pine tar into multiple jugs, maybe taking a few jugs to random paint and hardware stores to see if they'll let her use their paint shaker without purchasing any of their products. It would really make for some compelling content. 'How to mix pine tar correctly in 30 short minutes' I'm sure a video like this will really help all of the masses out there because it's a skill that is really hard to hone - forget the application process!! Give us mixing and ONLY mixing! (it's really not that hard to mix pine tar and linseed oil together ya dunce)
@@kgraettinger wouldn’t be surprised if a video like that that did very well. 60 min tires Asmr of pine tar mixing
I never had any trouble with my pine tar and pure raw linseed oil separating or not mixing. Maybe try heating it up if you're having issues.