Thank you very much. I really do believe this is going to bless my socks off, especially f for my greenhouse! And, been trying to figure out a way to get away from treated lumber for our vegetable beds. God bless y’all!
Sorry for the delay,, computer problems. This stuff I believe, in a different way, equals Thompsons Water Seal and is safe. Just me opinion. That's not saying anything bad about Thompson. Where appropriate I still use it. Be safe.
What i found that works is plain old vegtable oil to water proof my wooden raised pine garden beds , i apply a good cover then let dry and repeat , and dip my screws in petroleum jelly , its cheap and dosent affect or contaminate the soil .
I'm not surprised this would work. Adding the other things help it to penetrate. Petroleum jelly is great for cutting boards and leather, too. You have a great suggestion. Be safe.
I would let the wood dry out before applying. As an example we had a patio deck added to our house with pressure treated decking last fall. We want it painted, but we are waiting until later in this spring to have it painted. So if the deck has been drying for a season, I wouldn't think there would be a problem. But just for a bit of insurance, check the moisture content on the bottom of the deck if it has already been installed. If it is still lumber and has been sitting in your garage for a season, it should be fine. Since I don't know where you live there are all the qualifications of your climate. Also, if you are doing several coats, let it dry for at least a few days between coats. The goal is not convenience but making the wood last as long as possible. It wouldn't hurt to add a fresh coat every year. I will be replacing some of the raised bed boards either this year or next year and that is with dirt piled against one side of the wood. So if I replace this year, it will be seven years. If I replace next year it will be eight years. Not all of the boards need replacing. I hope this will guide you where you want to be. Be safe.
I’ve been doing research on what type of finish/stain/etc. on our new deck we have built out the back door and around the hillbilly pool. I’ve decided to stay away from the stains cause of the eventual peel. I came across articles/videos suggesting the linseed oil methods and I’m definitely leaning that way. I live in north central Texas and get all the varieties of seasons but mostly summer 😂. Particularly to the deck around the pool area, would using the linseed method be wise? I wouldn’t want an oil sheen in the water. Additionally, you mentioned letting pressure treated lumber age a bit before applying. What would be a rough amount of wait being located in my area where we have 100+ degree days for several months of the year.
@@saramitchell7722 Part of it is how wet the lumber is from being treated. The dryer the wood, the more this mixture can be absorbed into the wood. If the deck is already built, give it a couple of weeks, at least to dry out. Then I would put at least two coats on with a few days in between. You shouldn't get a sheen on the deck after drying or anything in the water if applied with some care. Since you could bake bread on the deck in the summer time, keep an eye on how the deck looks, you may want to apply an extra coat later in the summer. Then maybe once a year. Once it has cure, this is different than drying, you should have no problems. Don't forget your sun screen. Be safe.
@@Original_Old_Farmer thanks so much for the quick reply! Building the deck was quite a learning experience in itself but I certainly wasn’t prepared for the understanding differences of lingos when it comes to treatments for the deck.
I would think that the Thompson would keep it from soaking in. My suggestion would be to either rougph up the surface and then re-seal with Thompson or strip off the Thompson, then use the wood preservative. If you just brushed this on your decks it would only work where the Thompson has been pealed off of the wood. Doing right will give you a good workout. If you chance it with only brushing on over the decks the way they are now, may give you a couple of years, maybe more, maybe less. Sorry it wasn't better news, but I think you knew what you had to do, and you weree hoping a quick coating would do it. Just to let you know I had to think a bit on this one. Good luck. If need be, I could loan you a few swear words. Be safe.
Because of the linseed oil, I would think, and this is only a guess to wait to paint until the wood no longer feels as if there is a finish on it. I you use a good primer before painting, you may not need the sealer. Maybe there is a professional paint that knows the answer. As for me, unless I wanted a color for the fence, I would just use the sealer. I'm just guessing. Let us know your decision. Be Safe.
@Orginal_Old_Farmer I was think if I do the diy preservative and add paint to it they would last longer or the paint would be just for looks I just want to make any wood I have last a long time
How it works. Paraffin wax cannot be digested by rot (fungus) that is the preservative. The spirit or turps is the carrier that gets it into the timber. Boiled Linseed oil is the polymer that locks it in.
I think, two things happen. The first it seals out moisture to the wood and second it changes the PH on the surface. Sometimes in summer I see a bit of mold on the surface, but not in the wood itself. This is only a guess on how it works. Since this is a formula from the National Parks, you might ask them. Good question. Be safe.
The end screen about supporting the VFW National Home earned you a subscribe! USMC Vietnam combat Veteran - disabled. This video popped up at just the right time for me! A neighbor has asked me to resore a large bird feeder that was made by her grandfather. It appearsto have been madw largely of cedar and unfinished. It was outside for about 20 years before I saw it. She wants it to be restored to functionality but to still look like her grandfater made it. I think this mixture of yours may be just the thing to use! If nothing else, it is far less expensive than any of the penetrating resin Stabilizing $ystems I have seen! Thanks for th information!
Thank you for your kind words. It has cost me many subscribes in the past. A small cost for get a message out that may help the vets. The finish should work well on the bird house. It's been over five years on the raised beds. As for being a vet, you might be interested in Rob Cosman's channel. He does wood working and a bit more that you should appreciate. Be safe.
Simple in Florida, 1/2 used motor oil, 1/2 diesel fuel.....roll on.......no tracking on decks when dry ( about two hours.)......water beads......easy reapplication every 2 to 3 years.
We used to use it the in my youth. It does a great job. In some places it can cause contamination. Life was simpler in the middle part of last century. Be safe.
Haha! I love Noah Bradley’s channel and have used his preservative formula for a while. I happened to see your video & thought I’d see if you had a similar formula. Glad to see a ringing endorsement for this. It’s easy & works great!
So far no problem where I am in Mid-Michigan. I think in a couple of years I might have to replace some board, it will be close to ten years. I was generous with my coats with the boards. Maybe someone out there can say if they have had any insect issues.
I think it will help. I've used this for many years and find it a good finish for raised beds and similar outdoor projects. Thanks for subscribing and please be safe.
Maggie is a rescue dog and is still learning at the time of the video. Now, almost two years later, she knows the rules. It took time and talking with her. If something like pulling the computer off by the cord, I would be upset. When she did this, it was running into the cord, not a deliberate act. As for the finish, it does a good job. Be safe.
This is great stuff. Make sure you handle clean up appropriately. Rags and such could self-ignite. Bourbon Moth did an episode about this. It's worth watching: ruclips.net/video/3Gqi2cNCKQY/видео.html
Did I hear right that you add the linseed oil to the hot wax, and then add the mineral spirits? I just tried Noah's recipe for the first time today and got curdled wax. But I mixed the spirits and linseed first and added the wax (following his video). Probably added it too fast. Didn't know it would be safe to do it the other way.
I didn't have any problems. I've mixed both ways. But, when dealing with flamables, I always mix very slow. I don't know how many eggs I've curdled mixing too fast on the kitchen range. It only takes me 5 or 6 hundred times to learn that it doesn't work. I'm glad you found a solution that worked for you. This is great stuff. Be safe.
Well, that may not work... Or at least I have to decide if I want to take the risk. I'm seeing that paraffin wax melting point is 120-150 and mineral spirits flash point is 100-110. Might try to filter out the waz, re-melt and add back in.
You could put everything together, cold into a slow cooker. Set it on low and let it come up to the melting point on its own. But, if you have doubts, listen to them.
Like I said in the video, 4 years. I do have the corners staked. I picked up some of the same, 10 feet long and it turned into a pretzel. I'll be showing it soon. Thanks for watching and be safe.
Tip: Line the interior of the raised bed with black polyethylene plastic sheeting after treating the wood. The plastic sheeting is inert and acts a barrier between the soil and wood, protecting it from moisture, insects, microbes and fungi - all the things that contribute to wood decay. Black plastic sheeting holds up better to UV than clear sheeting. Instead of using 2x12's which come from old growth trees and costs and arm and two legs, use a couple of 2x6's with a piece of scrap 2x4 in the corner. Much more economical.
Be careful with plastic. Some will leach chemical in to your garden. I would go with food grade plastics instead of just plain plastic sheeting. With this one concern, it sounds like a great idea. Be safe.
@@Original_Old_Farmer Most plastic sheeting at your big box stores is polyethylene. Polyethylene is approved for cold potable water use. Shouldn't be an issue for water/wood/soil contact.
It should store well, although I have always used up what I had made. If it was a choice between nothing and the preservative, I would use the preservative, although I think I would use tar, if possible. I don't have any problems with the preservative with wood sitting on the ground. Be safe.
I'm getting ready to build a pond. I'm gonna to use treated limber for the frame but treated plywood is 60 bucks a sheet and i need 8 sheets. I think I'm going to get regular plywood and try this treatment on it. Even if i get 5 years out of it, that's with it for the savings. Tear it down and do it again.
It may work, but wouldn't be better to use a marine finish or possible a polyurethane or epoxy? If you do use the finish, let us know how it works. Good luck.
It's only a guess, but I think I would try it on a test piece. I think what happens is that it thins the wax so that it can get inside the wood. But again, it's only a guess. Be safe.
...And similar regards to you, too. When dry the preservative won't stain, but there might be other substances that are on the wood. I don't think I would sit on it in an evening tux. Be safe.
The concern I would have is that the paraffin wax might cause the paint to peel. If you have the time, you might do a test piece. The other idea is treat this fall and then paint next spring. If you do this, let all of us know how it did go. Good luck and stay safe.
Depending on your weather, assuming you doing this outside, when it is dry. I gave it a day where I'm at, just because I'm past being a senior citizen. This is some good stuff. Also, I almost forgot, some lumber is sold green. I would let it dry out so that the wood can suck up the juice. Be safe.
Sounds like a good idea. Sometimes I get a bit, too. But, it dies out when it's sunny again. It doesn't seem to hurt the wood or cause problems with gardening. Good catch.
Yes you can. Parafin is artificial beeswax. The only difference is beeswax is much more expensive than parafin. If you got beehives, it would be worth doing. Be safe.
i wouldnt see why not..other than bees wax is biodegradable more than parrifin would be ..assuming that only because beeswax is a product made made by a living organism. such as the fat off animals and pigs used for lard.
I offer an email link, I won't say where it is, but if you look you will find. Posting email in comments is a bad idea. We all want options for choosing so if you are willing to send I can work with it and get back to you and if good do a video based upon your discovery. Be safe.
I think you could substitute plain "vegetable oil" from the supermarket, it much cheaper. We have been using less wax and more oil with no thinner. I feel like our mix could be better. More wax would do it, I think. I don't want to use thinner, as it is now the stuff doesn't smell bad or irritate the skin. It's really nice to work with. I think I will just add more wax.
Thank you for your kind thoughts and for subscribing. You will see that I have a variety of videos deeling with many subjects. I hope you will enjoy and maybe pick up a stray fact or two. God Bless. Be safe.
You must have seen my deck. It depends on how bad the wood is. It should help to some degree. It depends on how bad the wood actually is and if the effort should be used toward replacing the deck. Although, with the price of wood, an additional year may be worth it.
Boy, you are SUPER close to that 1000 subscriber mark! Good luck! It's not easy to get there even with 13,000 views on at least this video and surely others.
Thanks for subscribing. I've stayed away from gimmicks and I think RUclips has done a few things, too. This is why I say I have the best subscribers. Be safe.
That's good! I was so very impressed with your informative and humble video. I am a beginning woodworker who recently invested the entirety of my savings into woodworking to follow my dream of being independent. I'm working with pine and Cedar for outdoor furniture and I'm looking for the best advice for protecting it with the least amount of maintenance for the customer. I'm currently using a spar oil but in considering other options that don't require sanding to maintain over the years. If you have any suggestions please do let me know.
@@Original_Waterboy I wish you well on your endevuor. For many of your products that you offer, this finish will work well for outdoor furniture. Are there better finishes available, yes; but cost and environmental considerations may take them outside of your price range when selling furniture. As a possibility, make up a gallon of this wood preservative, or whatever volume that is appropriate, and sent it along with the piece you sell as the first refinishing is on you. consider including various pigments in the finish to offer different types of look. Make sure you write down your recipe in order to replicate it in the future. The wood working I do is mostly for family, such as cutting boards. I always send some finish to help keep it in good shape. This is a different mixture that would not work for outdoors. Also, remember that many woods will turn to a grey or other unappealing color, so tint will be important. This is why pine is an excellent choice, based upon the hue it takes as it ages. Cherry is another wood that ages well for how it looks. As for cedar it's good for outdoor furniture but the color as it ages in not the best, so maybe help it with a bit of tint to keep it looking good. As for running a business find a niche and create as much product that is easy to turn out so that you keep an income flowing, that is your calling card for folks to come back to you for your more expensive pieces and possibly custom work. Whatever you do, don't under-sell yourself. You either make a profit or it's not worth doing commercially. Be safe.
I’m in Florida where sub-terrainian termites reign supreme. I am wondering if you have termite issues in Michigan? I wonder if borax could be mixed into the formula. What are your thoughts?
We are starting to see some termites, especially in older buildings, but not like what you have to deal with in Florida. Deep South Homestead lives in Louisiana and has had to deal to the same level as you do with termites. As for trying borax. It would be worthwhile to try a test piece and see if it will at least slow down termites. Be safe.
@@kennycurtice8857 I never paid attention too that,, you might try a sample on raw wood ,cut lumber and see , the red color usually represents an iron or lead oxide presence ,,
Don't tell her that. She thinks she's a country dog. I'm past the age of having larger dogs. Maggie and before her MeMe, were both rescue dogs. Be safe.
Very Nice video. I'm dropping this comment because you asked. I'm in Nigeria, so some of the items you mentioned are not common in the Nigerian market, or would probably have a different name which i dont know. God bless you.
First of all, it is a pleasure hearing from someone so far away. I have always been very impressed with those individuals from Africa that I have had the opportunity to meet. I hope there is a way of figuring out the names used in your country for these ingredients. I think it would work well even in strong heat, although it may need to be applied more often. Thank you for your kind words and to you to, God Bless and please be safe.
No I haven't. I have been thinking about it. lt might be time to do another coat and because I have been asked in different ways about adding a color I thought I would try it. I was thinking either a stain pigment in powder form or something that was not a water base. I don't think a water base pigment would mix. I could be wrong about it. Possibly a dye would work, if not water base. Good question. Thanks for bringing it up. If I do get around to it. I'll pin a comment. Be safe.
@@Original_Old_Farmer Thanks. I thought of powder pigment. I have lots of pine wood I intent to put on a deck this summer, but it's going to be orange. So toning it down using white pigment might work. Also it would add another layer of UV protection. I guess I'll have to just do it. Bravely. I'll mix some samples first thou.
@@montazvideo I think all of us would be interested in your test. If you would let us know I think many of us would be grateful. Since it will be walked on I would suggest several coats of clear on top of the tinted layer. Just a suggestion. It sounds like a bit of an effort, so you might as well make it last. Good luck
@@Original_Old_Farmer yes. Lots and lots of coats. It never hurts... Ok. I'll make photos of my samples and post a link here when I'm done. IDK if the wood itself will behave properly thou. This wood is very very... very old... Boards were made more than 350 years ago. It was taken from ruins of Kings castle destroyed by Germans in 1939. So.... It's old as hell...
What about using this on oak? Wife and I stained wood with the eco treatment and literally nothing happened. No color change either.. We're very skeptical at this point and wondering if we wasted our money
This is only an assumption. It shouldn't be a problem. Maybe try it on a scrap, first. This is something the national park service (as I understand) on picnic tables and other wood products that are outdoors. The worst that could happen is it might pick up a bit of mildew that can easily be cleaned with a diluted solution of bleach. How much, I don't know because on my raised beds it goes away by itself. Being oak it may drink it up like a drunken sailor. If you do use it, let us know what happens. Be safe
@@Original_Old_Farmer Thanks for the reply, I will insure to keep you updated in this comment section - Also, if you're skeptical of bleach againsy mildew, fungus, molds, etc.. Try using pH up and make sure the pH of your water is above 10. Put the water in a spray bottle and that will do the trick. Bleach is basically the same thing, never trusted it really however
Good question! First of all don't drink the stuff. How it becomes safe (debatable with organics) is to let it cure. This is more than letting it dry. Give it a couple of weeks to cure. You have to judge whether it's safe enough to use. I think most people think it will be. Again, you have to decide for your self. Most products when cured, not just dry, are usable. Again, it's your call. But the key is in the curing. If you are going to apply to raised bed already installed, I would pull the dirt away from the wood and brush the wood clean, maybe cover the dirt with plastic and then paint and let it be this way for about two weeks, then move the dirt back into place. The curing process allows the volitile components to evaporate. When they are gone it is considered cured. I hope this helps. Be safe.
@@Original_Old_Farmer thanks so much for the insight on curing. I have garden blocks with slots for wood. I was going to buy untreated pine and treat the boards with linseed oil before assembling. I can definitively let them cure for a few weeks before assembling! Makes good sense! Thanks
I wish there was something that wouldn’t leach toxic chemicals into the soil like these ingredients. I’ve been researching for months and haven’t found anything that does. Oh well, I’ll just stick with untreated pine and replace them every 3-5 years.
I'm glad to hear you are concerned with toxins leaching from the wood. If you let this treatment air dry for a week outside in the sun before building your bed, anything of concern will have evaporated and will not leach into your garden. But give it a week or so and you should be fine. Be safe.
Hope this works - We lived on a lake that lowered the Lake Level once in the spring so we could paint the break wall. I had a half can (half gallon) of Thompson’s Cement and Concrete Preservative left over from another project. Took the 2 quarts of Thompson’s Cement Preservative and added the 1 quart of brownish red ‘Solvent Based’ Paint. Also 1 quart of Mineral Spirits. We painted the break wall as usual but the following year, the paint was still like a new / fresh coat so we didn’t paint again that year. Thing is, we were there 5 more years and it was as fresh as the day we applied it 5 years earlier. Huh ! Weird ? Ok,, So,, At the cabin we built an out house and 2 hunting shacks. The first 2 were of an off colored blue leftover ‘Solvent Based’ Paint. The 3rd shack was of a quart of Green ‘Solvent Based’ Paint. Mixed all three the same way. But, with one difference - For the wood shacks we used Thompson’s Wood Preservative’ as apposed to the Cement Preservative like we did on the Cement Block Breakwall. [ 2 parts Thompsons, 1 part Mineral Spirits, 1 Part ‘Solvent Based’ Paint] Only differences between the two materials are - For wood, use the Thompson’s Wood preservative and for Cement we use the Thompson’s Cement Preservative. This was a lot thinner than paint and worked well in a deck sprayer. Also, a thin paint / stain sinks into the wood fibers and creates a better adhesion than a thick skin-like paint over the wood. If you like it real dark, just put a second coat over the first. This paint takes a long time to dry and you can smell it in an outhouse for example for weeks and weeks. But, I see a picture of the new owners holding up a fish for a picture and in the back ground is the outhouse I painted 32 years ago as of November ‘2022’. P.S. if you have time to clean the sprayer tips / nozzles with mineral spirits you will need to do a thorough cleaning job in order to save the sprayer for future use.
Sorry for the Email Fiasco but I had no idea how to find it. Thnx for the reply. Also I have used the formula use for materials like canvas tarps etc. Similar to the military grade rain protection.
Thompsons waterseal is a very poor product ,it could really have been made a better product for the market by adding paraffin wax ..however that thickens the watery consistency of the product making it a little harder to penetrate deep into the pores of the wood. This can be circumvented by warming up the solution to round 120 degrees .. and dont try this during the cold months in order to get a deeper penetration .. termites have a habit of tunneling up thru the center of fence posts and other blocks of wood supporting structures ..so it is important to get thew wood that is on the ground also .Once termites and wood ants are in the subfloors of a barn or house they are extremely difficult to get rid up .
Any preservative effects you are getting probly comes from.the oily paint mixed with spirits to get a deep strong bond. Waterseal is more of an idea than an actual seal against water.
Word of advice ... I would not use the Noah Bradley Wood sealer on raised vegetable planters! Do your homework and check the ingredients on these "preservative"...they are saturated with chemicals! I use RAW Linseed Oil or Tung oil which are natural and chemical free. I shivered when I viewed the gentleman rolling on the Noah preservative. I'm sure its ok on non-food projects. Please be cautious on the advise you give.
That's a good caution. If you are careful with some of these ingrediants, if they cure, they are actually food safe. Not all, but many. But you are right, read the ingrediants. If it's not on the label get the Safety Data Sheet (SDS), or Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). Thanks for the reminder. Be safe.
Mineral spirits are fine for raised beds, it just helps the linseed oil penetrate the wood , and parafin is canning wax. What’s your objection exactly, or are you just spouting off ignorantly?
i would recomend using linenseed oil an dparrafin mix for those who are planning to use wood for raised gardens avoiding the contamination of chemicals.
Thank you very much. I really do believe this is going to bless my socks off, especially f for my greenhouse! And, been trying to figure out a way to get away from treated lumber for our vegetable beds. God bless y’all!
Sorry for the delay,, computer problems. This stuff I believe, in a different way, equals Thompsons Water Seal and is safe. Just me opinion. That's not saying anything bad about Thompson. Where appropriate I still use it. Be safe.
What i found that works is plain old vegtable oil to water proof my wooden raised pine garden beds , i apply a good cover then let dry and repeat , and dip my screws in petroleum jelly , its cheap and dosent affect or contaminate the soil .
I'm not surprised this would work. Adding the other things help it to penetrate. Petroleum jelly is great for cutting boards and leather, too. You have a great suggestion. Be safe.
Can I put this over stained wood?
It should work if the stain did not seal the wood. If it has, there may be a bit of sanding in your future. Be safe.
Great information, thank you. Do you think the mixture would fare well if applied to pressure treated deck boards..?
I would let the wood dry out before applying. As an example we had a patio deck added to our house with pressure treated decking last fall. We want it painted, but we are waiting until later in this spring to have it painted. So if the deck has been drying for a season, I wouldn't think there would be a problem. But just for a bit of insurance, check the moisture content on the bottom of the deck if it has already been installed. If it is still lumber and has been sitting in your garage for a season, it should be fine. Since I don't know where you live there are all the qualifications of your climate. Also, if you are doing several coats, let it dry for at least a few days between coats. The goal is not convenience but making the wood last as long as possible. It wouldn't hurt to add a fresh coat every year. I will be replacing some of the raised bed boards either this year or next year and that is with dirt piled against one side of the wood. So if I replace this year, it will be seven years. If I replace next year it will be eight years. Not all of the boards need replacing. I hope this will guide you where you want to be. Be safe.
I’ve been doing research on what type of finish/stain/etc. on our new deck we have built out the back door and around the hillbilly pool. I’ve decided to stay away from the stains cause of the eventual peel. I came across articles/videos suggesting the linseed oil methods and I’m definitely leaning that way. I live in north central Texas and get all the varieties of seasons but mostly summer 😂. Particularly to the deck around the pool area, would using the linseed method be wise? I wouldn’t want an oil sheen in the water. Additionally, you mentioned letting pressure treated lumber age a bit before applying. What would be a rough amount of wait being located in my area where we have 100+ degree days for several months of the year.
@@saramitchell7722 Part of it is how wet the lumber is from being treated. The dryer the wood, the more this mixture can be absorbed into the wood. If the deck is already built, give it a couple of weeks, at least to dry out. Then I would put at least two coats on with a few days in between. You shouldn't get a sheen on the deck after drying or anything in the water if applied with some care. Since you could bake bread on the deck in the summer time, keep an eye on how the deck looks, you may want to apply an extra coat later in the summer. Then maybe once a year. Once it has cure, this is different than drying, you should have no problems. Don't forget your sun screen. Be safe.
@@Original_Old_Farmer thanks so much for the quick reply! Building the deck was quite a learning experience in itself but I certainly wasn’t prepared for the understanding differences of lingos when it comes to treatments for the deck.
I used this years ago. Now I need to do a deck and the deck of my trailer. Do you think this would be ok to put over Thompson Water Sealer?
I would think that the Thompson would keep it from soaking in. My suggestion would be to either rougph up the surface and then re-seal with Thompson or strip off the Thompson, then use the wood preservative. If you just brushed this on your decks it would only work where the Thompson has been pealed off of the wood. Doing right will give you a good workout. If you chance it with only brushing on over the decks the way they are now, may give you a couple of years, maybe more, maybe less. Sorry it wasn't better news, but I think you knew what you had to do, and you weree hoping a quick coating would do it. Just to let you know I had to think a bit on this one. Good luck. If need be, I could loan you a few swear words. Be safe.
Can I add to my panted fance or do I have to do it before I paint it
Because of the linseed oil, I would think, and this is only a guess to wait to paint until the wood no longer feels as if there is a finish on it. I you use a good primer before painting, you may not need the sealer. Maybe there is a professional paint that knows the answer. As for me, unless I wanted a color for the fence, I would just use the sealer. I'm just guessing. Let us know your decision. Be Safe.
@Orginal_Old_Farmer I was think if I do the diy preservative and add paint to it they would last longer or the paint would be just for looks I just want to make any wood I have last a long time
@@lapear6068 If it lasts more than five years, you are ahead of the game. This just might work.
First video. Good stuff.
Thank you. This is good stuff. I'm up to eight years and should now start thinking of replacing some boards. Be safe.
I love Murica!
I haven't heard this term since before the world went crazy. Be safe.
How it works.
Paraffin wax cannot be digested by rot (fungus) that is the preservative.
The spirit or turps is the carrier that gets it into the timber.
Boiled Linseed oil is the polymer that locks it in.
I think, two things happen. The first it seals out moisture to the wood and second it changes the PH on the surface. Sometimes in summer I see a bit of mold on the surface, but not in the wood itself. This is only a guess on how it works. Since this is a formula from the National Parks, you might ask them. Good question. Be safe.
@@Original_Old_Farmer That is where I got my statement from.
Excellent endorsement and i was already planning on trying this on rough log outdoor furniture for my garden.
It should work. Be safe.
Wow ..great channel .Thank you!👏👏👏👏
Thank you for your kind words. Be safe.
Great video. Can you paint over this?
Because of the parifin, it may not work. Be safe.
The end screen about supporting the VFW National Home earned you a subscribe! USMC Vietnam combat Veteran - disabled.
This video popped up at just the right time for me! A neighbor has asked me to resore a large bird feeder that was made by her grandfather. It appearsto have been madw largely of cedar and unfinished. It was outside for about 20 years before I saw it. She wants it to be restored to functionality but to still look like her grandfater made it. I think this mixture of yours may be just the thing to use! If nothing else, it is far less expensive than any of the penetrating resin Stabilizing $ystems I have seen! Thanks for th information!
Thank you for your kind words. It has cost me many subscribes in the past. A small cost for get a message out that may help the vets. The finish should work well on the bird house. It's been over five years on the raised beds. As for being a vet, you might be interested in Rob Cosman's channel. He does wood working and a bit more that you should appreciate. Be safe.
thank you
You are very welcome. Be safe.
Content starts at 2:45
Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you
@@kawaiisenshi2401 You’re welcome ☺️
Simple in Florida, 1/2 used motor oil, 1/2 diesel fuel.....roll on.......no tracking on decks when dry ( about two hours.)......water beads......easy reapplication every 2 to 3 years.
We used to use it the in my youth. It does a great job. In some places it can cause contamination. Life was simpler in the middle part of last century. Be safe.
used motor oil and diesel work great but it stinks for weeks.
@@MegaDavykWhy not use the diesel and oil instead of the spirits,for the linseed and parafin mixture?
Haha! I love Noah Bradley’s channel and have used his preservative formula for a while. I happened to see your video & thought I’d see if you had a similar formula. Glad to see a ringing endorsement for this. It’s easy & works great!
Does this prevent against pest and roth
So far no problem where I am in Mid-Michigan. I think in a couple of years I might have to replace some board, it will be close to ten years. I was generous with my coats with the boards. Maybe someone out there can say if they have had any insect issues.
My go to wood preservative is used motor oil, you can thin it with diesle fuel or paint thinner depending how thin you want it.
There is no doubt Motor oil work well. But, many folks are concerned with using motor oil in gardens. Be Safe.
True@@Original_Old_Farmer
Thank you so much for uploading and sharing help video.
Will test your process.
You got new subscriber.
I think it will help. I've used this for many years and find it a good finish for raised beds and similar outdoor projects. Thanks for subscribing and please be safe.
"It wasn't on purpose, but it did happen . . . "
said every parent (and pet owner) ever.
Great vid brother (and sister).
Thanks!
Maggie is a rescue dog and is still learning at the time of the video. Now, almost two years later, she knows the rules. It took time and talking with her. If something like pulling the computer off by the cord, I would be upset. When she did this, it was running into the cord, not a deliberate act. As for the finish, it does a good job. Be safe.
Thank you for this video. I’ll use it wisely
It's a good formula and I give all the credit to Noah Bradley for finding it. Be safe.
Thank you, sir. I’m gonna give this a try. I subscribed.
I always tip my hat to a Southern Belle. Be generous on the application and you should be fine. Be safe.
Well, i was looking for a wood sealer and I found one, as always GREAT JOB. Keep it up.
This is great stuff. Make sure you handle clean up appropriately. Rags and such could self-ignite. Bourbon Moth did an episode about this. It's worth watching: ruclips.net/video/3Gqi2cNCKQY/видео.html
@@Original_Old_Farmer I did watch Bourbon Moth it was a good video. I promise to clean up my mess:)
Did I hear right that you add the linseed oil to the hot wax, and then add the mineral spirits? I just tried Noah's recipe for the first time today and got curdled wax. But I mixed the spirits and linseed first and added the wax (following his video). Probably added it too fast. Didn't know it would be safe to do it the other way.
I didn't have any problems. I've mixed both ways. But, when dealing with flamables, I always mix very slow. I don't know how many eggs I've curdled mixing too fast on the kitchen range. It only takes me 5 or 6 hundred times to learn that it doesn't work. I'm glad you found a solution that worked for you. This is great stuff. Be safe.
Well, that may not work... Or at least I have to decide if I want to take the risk. I'm seeing that paraffin wax melting point is 120-150 and mineral spirits flash point is 100-110.
Might try to filter out the waz, re-melt and add back in.
You could put everything together, cold into a slow cooker. Set it on low and let it come up to the melting point on its own. But, if you have doubts, listen to them.
Perfect timing! I’m was about to make some raised beds myself. Thank you!
This stuff really works. Thanks for watching and be safe.
Does it have to be boiled linseed oil? Or would linseed or tung oil work just fine?
I don't know. I've always used boiled. The only things could think would be different is that it wouldn't last as long. That's only a guess.
@@Original_Old_FarmerThank you so much! I appreciate the time and thoughtfulness to answer.
Can you apply this over stain?
It depends upon the stain. If it has a sealer you may have to do a rough sand. Try a small spot to if it will work. Stay safe.
Thanks for sharing. Hope those 1x12's worked out well for you. Hope to see more from you wonderful folks.
Josh
Like I said in the video, 4 years. I do have the corners staked. I picked up some of the same, 10 feet long and it turned into a pretzel. I'll be showing it soon. Thanks for watching and be safe.
Tip: Line the interior of the raised bed with black polyethylene plastic sheeting after treating the wood. The plastic sheeting is inert and acts a barrier between the soil and wood, protecting it from moisture, insects, microbes and fungi - all the things that contribute to wood decay. Black plastic sheeting holds up better to UV than clear sheeting. Instead of using 2x12's which come from old growth trees and costs and arm and two legs, use a couple of 2x6's with a piece of scrap 2x4 in the corner. Much more economical.
Be careful with plastic. Some will leach chemical in to your garden. I would go with food grade plastics instead of just plain plastic sheeting. With this one concern, it sounds like a great idea. Be safe.
@@Original_Old_Farmer Most plastic sheeting at your big box stores is polyethylene. Polyethylene is approved for cold potable water use. Shouldn't be an issue for water/wood/soil contact.
@@scotttaylor3872 Thanks for the update. I have trouble remembering which plastic is which. Keep up the good work.
Can you store and use later on and would you suggest this for posts pounded into the ground ?
Thank you for the great info
It should store well, although I have always used up what I had made. If it was a choice between nothing and the preservative, I would use the preservative, although I think I would use tar, if possible. I don't have any problems with the preservative with wood sitting on the ground. Be safe.
I'm getting ready to build a pond. I'm gonna to use treated limber for the frame but treated plywood is 60 bucks a sheet and i need 8 sheets. I think I'm going to get regular plywood and try this treatment on it. Even if i get 5 years out of it, that's with it for the savings. Tear it down and do it again.
It may work, but wouldn't be better to use a marine finish or possible a polyurethane or epoxy? If you do use the finish, let us know how it works. Good luck.
Mineral spirits are expensive and hard to come by where I am. Will paint thinner do?
It's only a guess, but I think I would try it on a test piece. I think what happens is that it thins the wax so that it can get inside the wood. But again, it's only a guess. Be safe.
same stuff @@Original_Old_Farmer
I will be using this tip!
This stuff really works. Be safe.
If I sat on it on a hot day could it stain clothing .kindest regards tim
...And similar regards to you, too. When dry the preservative won't stain, but there might be other substances that are on the wood. I don't think I would sit on it in an evening tux. Be safe.
I'm looking at ways to seal T1-11 plywood siding that will be on a shed. After applying this formula, can it be painted?
The concern I would have is that the paraffin wax might cause the paint to peel. If you have the time, you might do a test piece. The other idea is treat this fall and then paint next spring. If you do this, let all of us know how it did go. Good luck and stay safe.
How long do I need to let this dry b4 using the wood?
Depending on your weather, assuming you doing this outside, when it is dry. I gave it a day where I'm at, just because I'm past being a senior citizen. This is some good stuff. Also, I almost forgot, some lumber is sold green. I would let it dry out so that the wood can suck up the juice. Be safe.
I did this and it grew black mould this winter, I would add tea tree oil or some anti mould ingredient.
Sounds like a good idea. Sometimes I get a bit, too. But, it dies out when it's sunny again. It doesn't seem to hurt the wood or cause problems with gardening. Good catch.
Im building a reclaimed pallet retaining wall and i think i will use this, thank you sir
it should work well for your project. Be safe.
Can you substitute beeswax for the paraffin?
Yes you can. Parafin is artificial beeswax. The only difference is beeswax is much more expensive than parafin. If you got beehives, it would be worth doing. Be safe.
i wouldnt see why not..other than bees wax is biodegradable more than parrifin would be ..assuming that only because beeswax is a product made made by a living organism. such as the fat off animals and pigs used for lard.
I have another one I discovered by accident. Not sure anyone cares! Thnx Scott
I offer an email link, I won't say where it is, but if you look you will find. Posting email in comments is a bad idea. We all want options for choosing so if you are willing to send I can work with it and get back to you and if good do a video based upon your discovery. Be safe.
@@Original_Old_Farmer Not sure where to begin to look. Nope striking out but haavn’t given up.
@@johnhubble5373 Look below the Linux information in the video description and you shall see what you need.
@@johnhubble5373😅😊😅you
Exactly what I was looking for! commercial stuff is crap
Sometimes home made is better. In this case it is. Be safe.
I was curious if this stores well after it’s all mixed together.
Absolutely! If it is sitting for a great length of time you might have to thin a bit. It's stable. Be safe.
That’s fantastic! Thanks so much and thanks for being so quick to reply. And while I’m at it, thanks for the video, too!
@@miataman2001 My pleasure, I hope it will serve you well. Be safe.
I think you could substitute plain "vegetable oil" from the supermarket, it much cheaper. We have been using less wax and more oil with no thinner. I feel like our mix could be better. More wax would do it, I think. I don't want to use thinner, as it is now the stuff doesn't smell bad or irritate the skin. It's really nice to work with. I think I will just add more wax.
It might work. I think the mineral spirits is to thin the linseed oil and the wax. Let us know if it will work over the long haul. Be safe.
Your psalm and national anthem convinced me to subscribe. Thank you for your faith and patriotism!
Thank you for your kind thoughts and for subscribing. You will see that I have a variety of videos deeling with many subjects. I hope you will enjoy and maybe pick up a stray fact or two. God Bless. Be safe.
you mention "quality" in your opening line but negated to say what kind of quality
One question on this. Can this formula and process be used on old deteriorating wood deck?
You must have seen my deck. It depends on how bad the wood is. It should help to some degree. It depends on how bad the wood actually is and if the effort should be used toward replacing the deck. Although, with the price of wood, an additional year may be worth it.
God bless 🙏
..and also, with you!
Used motor oil is also the original automobile rust proofing.
It's true motor oil does a good job. But, again, if there are concerns, this does a good job, too. Good point.
Excellent, thank you sir.
You are very welcomed. I hope it serves you well. Be safe.
Boy, you are SUPER close to that 1000 subscriber mark! Good luck! It's not easy to get there even with 13,000 views on at least this video and surely others.
Thanks for subscribing. I've stayed away from gimmicks and I think RUclips has done a few things, too. This is why I say I have the best subscribers. Be safe.
Awesome video. Thanks for the info sir.
Thank you for watching. This is some good stuff for protecting wood. Be safe.
How's the computer working?
The computer is working great. Thanks for asking.
That's good! I was so very impressed with your informative and humble video. I am a beginning woodworker who recently invested the entirety of my savings into woodworking to follow my dream of being independent. I'm working with pine and Cedar for outdoor furniture and I'm looking for the best advice for protecting it with the least amount of maintenance for the customer. I'm currently using a spar oil but in considering other options that don't require sanding to maintain over the years. If you have any suggestions please do let me know.
@@Original_Waterboy I wish you well on your endevuor. For many of your products that you offer, this finish will work well for outdoor furniture. Are there better finishes available, yes; but cost and environmental considerations may take them outside of your price range when selling furniture. As a possibility, make up a gallon of this wood preservative, or whatever volume that is appropriate, and sent it along with the piece you sell as the first refinishing is on you. consider including various pigments in the finish to offer different types of look. Make sure you write down your recipe in order to replicate it in the future.
The wood working I do is mostly for family, such as cutting boards. I always send some finish to help keep it in good shape. This is a different mixture that would not work for outdoors. Also, remember that many woods will turn to a grey or other unappealing color, so tint will be important. This is why pine is an excellent choice, based upon the hue it takes as it ages. Cherry is another wood that ages well for how it looks.
As for cedar it's good for outdoor furniture but the color as it ages in not the best, so maybe help it with a bit of tint to keep it looking good.
As for running a business find a niche and create as much product that is easy to turn out so that you keep an income flowing, that is your calling card for folks to come back to you for your more expensive pieces and possibly custom work. Whatever you do, don't under-sell yourself. You either make a profit or it's not worth doing commercially. Be safe.
I’m in Florida where sub-terrainian termites reign supreme. I am wondering if you have termite issues in Michigan? I wonder if borax could be mixed into the formula. What are your thoughts?
We are starting to see some termites, especially in older buildings, but not like what you have to deal with in Florida. Deep South Homestead lives in Louisiana and has had to deal to the same level as you do with termites. As for trying borax. It would be worthwhile to try a test piece and see if it will at least slow down termites. Be safe.
What about used motor oil and boric acid? Maybe Sho Shugi ban first?
I you want to stop the ungus and wood termites , mix one tablespoon o copper sulphate, per 5 gallons o mix.
@@randallmarsh446 Does the Copper Sulphate give it that Redwood Color Look, Also???
@@kennycurtice8857 I never paid attention too that,, you might try a sample on raw wood ,cut lumber and see , the red color usually represents an iron or lead oxide presence ,,
Looks like a city dog.
Don't tell her that. She thinks she's a country dog. I'm past the age of having larger dogs. Maggie and before her MeMe, were both rescue dogs. Be safe.
Very Nice video. I'm dropping this comment because you asked. I'm in Nigeria, so some of the items you mentioned are not common in the Nigerian market, or would probably have a different name which i dont know. God bless you.
First of all, it is a pleasure hearing from someone so far away. I have always been very impressed with those individuals from Africa that I have had the opportunity to meet. I hope there is a way of figuring out the names used in your country for these ingredients. I think it would work well even in strong heat, although it may need to be applied more often. Thank you for your kind words and to you to, God Bless and please be safe.
Have you tried adding pigments?
No I haven't. I have been thinking about it. lt might be time to do another coat and because I have been asked in different ways about adding a color I thought I would try it. I was thinking either a stain pigment in powder form or something that was not a water base. I don't think a water base pigment would mix. I could be wrong about it. Possibly a dye would work, if not water base. Good question. Thanks for bringing it up. If I do get around to it. I'll pin a comment. Be safe.
@@Original_Old_Farmer Thanks. I thought of powder pigment. I have lots of pine wood I intent to put on a deck this summer, but it's going to be orange. So toning it down using white pigment might work. Also it would add another layer of UV protection. I guess I'll have to just do it. Bravely. I'll mix some samples first thou.
@@montazvideo I think all of us would be interested in your test. If you would let us know I think many of us would be grateful. Since it will be walked on I would suggest several coats of clear on top of the tinted layer. Just a suggestion. It sounds like a bit of an effort, so you might as well make it last. Good luck
@@Original_Old_Farmer yes. Lots and lots of coats. It never hurts...
Ok. I'll make photos of my samples and post a link here when I'm done. IDK if the wood itself will behave properly thou.
This wood is very very... very old... Boards were made more than 350 years ago. It was taken from ruins of Kings castle destroyed by Germans in 1939.
So.... It's old as hell...
What about using this on oak? Wife and I stained wood with the eco treatment and literally nothing happened. No color change either.. We're very skeptical at this point and wondering if we wasted our money
This is only an assumption. It shouldn't be a problem. Maybe try it on a scrap, first. This is something the national park service (as I understand) on picnic tables and other wood products that are outdoors. The worst that could happen is it might pick up a bit of mildew that can easily be cleaned with a diluted solution of bleach. How much, I don't know because on my raised beds it goes away by itself. Being oak it may drink it up like a drunken sailor. If you do use it, let us know what happens. Be safe
@@Original_Old_Farmer Thanks for the reply, I will insure to keep you updated in this comment section - Also, if you're skeptical of bleach againsy mildew, fungus, molds, etc.. Try using pH up and make sure the pH of your water is above 10. Put the water in a spray bottle and that will do the trick. Bleach is basically the same thing, never trusted it really however
I thought mineral spirits were toxics
Good question! First of all don't drink the stuff. How it becomes safe (debatable with organics) is to let it cure. This is more than letting it dry. Give it a couple of weeks to cure. You have to judge whether it's safe enough to use. I think most people think it will be. Again, you have to decide for your self. Most products when cured, not just dry, are usable. Again, it's your call. But the key is in the curing. If you are going to apply to raised bed already installed, I would pull the dirt away from the wood and brush the wood clean, maybe cover the dirt with plastic and then paint and let it be this way for about two weeks, then move the dirt back into place. The curing process allows the volitile components to evaporate. When they are gone it is considered cured. I hope this helps. Be safe.
@@Original_Old_Farmer thanks so much for the insight on curing. I have garden blocks with slots for wood. I was going to buy untreated pine and treat the boards with linseed oil before assembling. I can definitively let them cure for a few weeks before assembling! Makes good sense! Thanks
I imagine this won't provide UV protection.
I am in Michigan and have no problems with UV issues except it will darken over time. Good question. Be safe.
I wish there was something that wouldn’t leach toxic chemicals into the soil like these ingredients. I’ve been researching for months and haven’t found anything that does. Oh well, I’ll just stick with untreated pine and replace them every 3-5 years.
I'm glad to hear you are concerned with toxins leaching from the wood. If you let this treatment air dry for a week outside in the sun before building your bed, anything of concern will have evaporated and will not leach into your garden. But give it a week or so and you should be fine. Be safe.
@@Original_Old_Farmer thanks for the reply. I may end up trying it out
Friggin’ Maggie.
She's around me for about 23.5 hours a day. She is a great dog. Be safe.
Hope this works - We lived on a lake that lowered the Lake Level once in the spring so we could paint the break wall. I had a half can (half gallon) of Thompson’s Cement and Concrete Preservative left over from another project. Took the 2 quarts of Thompson’s Cement Preservative and added the 1 quart of brownish red ‘Solvent Based’ Paint. Also 1 quart of Mineral Spirits. We painted the break wall as usual but the following year, the paint was still like a new / fresh coat so we didn’t paint again that year. Thing is, we were there 5 more years and it was as fresh as the day we applied it 5 years earlier. Huh ! Weird ? Ok,, So,, At the cabin we built an out house and 2 hunting shacks. The first 2 were of an off colored blue leftover ‘Solvent Based’ Paint. The 3rd shack was of a quart of Green ‘Solvent Based’ Paint. Mixed all three the same way. But, with one difference - For the wood shacks we used Thompson’s Wood Preservative’ as apposed to the Cement Preservative like we did on the Cement Block Breakwall. [ 2 parts Thompsons, 1 part Mineral Spirits, 1 Part ‘Solvent Based’ Paint] Only differences between the two materials are - For wood, use the Thompson’s Wood preservative and for Cement we use the Thompson’s Cement Preservative. This was a lot thinner than paint and worked well in a deck sprayer. Also, a thin paint / stain sinks into the wood fibers and creates a better adhesion than a thick skin-like paint over the wood. If you like it real dark, just put a second coat over the first. This paint takes a long time to dry and you can smell it in an outhouse for example for weeks and weeks. But, I see a picture of the new owners holding up a fish for a picture and in the back ground is the outhouse I painted 32 years ago as of November ‘2022’. P.S. if you have time to clean the sprayer tips / nozzles with mineral spirits you will need to do a thorough cleaning job in order to save the sprayer for future use.
Sorry for the Email Fiasco but I had no idea how to find it. Thnx for the reply. Also I have used the formula use for materials like canvas tarps etc. Similar to the military grade rain protection.
Thompsons waterseal is a very poor product ,it could really have been made a better product for the market by adding paraffin wax ..however that thickens the watery consistency of the product making it a little harder to penetrate deep into the pores of the wood. This can be circumvented by warming up the solution to round 120 degrees .. and dont try this during the cold months in order to get a deeper penetration .. termites have a habit of tunneling up thru the center of fence posts and other blocks of wood supporting structures ..so it is important to get thew
wood that is on the ground also .Once termites and wood ants are in the subfloors of a barn or house they are extremely difficult to get rid up .
Any preservative effects you are getting probly comes from.the oily paint mixed with spirits to get a deep strong bond. Waterseal is more of an idea than an actual seal against water.
@@randallmarsh446 improving waterseal with paraffin would eliminate the "need" to recoat constantly so they wouldnt sell as much waterseal
his wife she cute as a button and reminds me of my grandma.
Thank you. I will pass along to Mrs. Old Farmer. Be safe.
Just buy Bitumen primer..simple.
So true, except some folks want to know what they are using. Be safe.
Please, cut the incessant music.
Word of advice ... I would not use the Noah Bradley Wood sealer on raised vegetable planters! Do your homework and check the ingredients on these "preservative"...they are saturated with chemicals! I use RAW Linseed Oil or Tung oil which are natural and chemical free. I shivered when I viewed the gentleman rolling on the Noah preservative. I'm sure its ok on non-food projects. Please be cautious on the advise you give.
That's a good caution. If you are careful with some of these ingrediants, if they cure, they are actually food safe. Not all, but many. But you are right, read the ingrediants. If it's not on the label get the Safety Data Sheet (SDS), or Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). Thanks for the reminder. Be safe.
Mineral spirits are fine for raised beds, it just helps the linseed oil penetrate the wood , and parafin is canning wax. What’s your objection exactly, or are you just spouting off ignorantly?
i would recomend using linenseed oil an dparrafin mix for those who are planning to use wood for raised gardens avoiding the contamination of chemicals.
Wax oil and paint thinner. The paint thinner thins the oil and evaporates….for the most part.
These days the BEST is an oxymoron
Don't forget to get the type with ultraviolet protections. Good one!
GET TO THE POINT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It works!!!!! Be safe.
Boy. You guy should get a clue on the Bible.
Are you Dr of Divinity ?
Your videos are cool and your intros videos are stupid
That's OK. Maybe it well help calm things down. Be safe.