This is a great video! I really hope you put out more in the future. I love your products. I own a 100-year old “century home” and I value these old-world but time-tested products over many of the more modern materials that have not necessarily stood the test of Time.
So glad you enjoyed and found it helpful! I'm working on many more resources (video and otherwise) on the traditional materials. Stay tuned! Don't hesitate to reach out if you have application questions or video content suggestions: info@earthandflax.com
Hello, It is best if the wood is completely dry. It should feel dry to the touch. Waiting a few months is good as well. It depends on you location, climate and season
Great to see you promoting old painting methods in america! They look really good and last a long time. I always try to use linseed oil paint. Im from Sweden, and it is nice to see that you use alot of swedish products. How did you get in to this?
Very happy to have found your video/website. I have been looking for an authentic way to use pine tar to seal the outside of my peapod boat, something more along the lines of the Nordic heritage...painting it just didn't seem right...
Thanks for the tips. About to tackle 80-year-old tar wood siding that amazingly is still solid despite decades of neglect and rough weather. Are there any special steps I should take for such old, weathered wood? Also, what to do if we live in a climate that rarely gets above 60F? Will a hot water bath for the pine tar suffice? Also, what about rain? It can be hard to predict here. Is it going to cause issues if it rains before it dries?
Why does the second coat look so much darker than the first coat? Almost looks like a different pigment entirely. Are there examples of how the pre-mixed pine tar "dark" you carry looks on cedar? I'm looking more for a dark walnut look than full pine tar black. Thanks!
The pigment builds-up as you apply additional coats to the surface. So, a first coat generally on most substrates will have more transparency. You can also adjust this by doing a higher ratio of Black Pine Tar to oil (say a 30/70 ratio) to get more intensity of color with a single coat. Adjust ratio based on personal preference. The Dark Pine Tar color really depends on the wood species used. It ranges from a light honey to a dark honey color. We recommend you do a few tests with the wood you plan to use for your project to confirm ratio and color preference for both Dark and Light Pine Tar options. Below I've included a few links with examples, including our Instagram, which we use as a project gallery and a helpful article comparing the Light and Dark Pine Tar options on our Learning Center. Hope this is helpful. Reach out via info@earthandflax.com with additional questions. instagram.com/earthandflax/ and www.earthandflax.com/post/light-pine-tar-vs-dark-pine-tar
I just saw how to make pine tar on my pac stove. so i had to look up how to mix it and with what. Thanks for the great vid. I like that look. I use a water base stain right now. Its steel wool, vinegar, and cherry koolaid. Looks good and weathers well.
Nice! I've never made Pine Tar from scratch but seen videos on the process. Pretty cool - such a traditional technique. Do your best to use a Purified Linseed Oil as conventional linseed oil usually has many additives/solvents and can have issues drying/with mildew. Really working to provide natural purified/degummed oil-based products as they will always be superior to a water-based formulation on wood.
@@Earthandflaxstudio Try my koolaid trick. You can add coffee grounds to it and some natural oils are produced that way. I noticed that the rain will brighten this color, not fade it. Different wood takes it on differently Worth experimenting since its so cheap to make. You'l have both bases covered for outdoor organic wood treatment. I'm working on using pine sap directly on steel to season it. It seems to hold a high gloss at higher temps than oils.
@@PACstove Very interesting! I was just talking to someone about using coffee grounds as a natural stain with the Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil on a kitchen countertop. Will have to give your method a try soon. Thanks for sharing!
@@Earthandflaxstudio Vinegar and steel wool without the koolaid will actually "antique" the wood. So, you can go both ways with that recipe. Make it new, or make it look old. Good luck. Nice channel. Try it. You'l see.
The Purified Linseed Oil has a faster dry time by itself vs. the Pine Tar mixture so you can probably apply in the 24-48 hr range. The Purified LO should feel fully dry to the touch before applying the Pine Tar mixture. Hope this is helpful!
I want to paint pine tar on one of our out-buildings that was made with rough sawn wood. So the wood was never planed or sanded. Will the surface still be OK to apply pine tar? BTW your videos are so helpful for us on our 1870s homestead.
Great to hear! Yes, there should be no issue applying on that surface. We would recommend that you clean old wood before application using a petrochemical-free liquid soap like Linseed Oil Soap. Scrub if needed to remove dirt, carbon, organic growth, loose particulate, etc. Rinse well and let dry fully before applying your Pine Tar finish. Generally, rough cut will be thirstier, so to speak, and absorb more natural oils than a smooth cut siding. Hope this is helpful! Reach out via info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
Great video! I plan to finish the siding on my barn with this. We are going to use "green" eastern white pine- is the pine tar well suited for green lumber or would it be better to wait a season before painting so it's drier? Thanks!
Great to hear you enjoyed the vid! Green wood is generally too damp to absorb much of the Pine Tar mixture. If you want to apply something for a little protection, you can apply a thin coat, let soak in for the afternoon, and wipe off any excess before end of day to avoid excess that cannot soak in to gum up on the surface. Otherwise, I would wait a season or two for the wood to dry out a bit - similar to general suggestions for applying a finish to pressure treated wood for example. If you wait, you probably want to do a light cleaning with hose water and Linseed Oil Soap to remove any dirt, pollen, organic growth, etc. Rinse well and let dry fully before applying your Pine Tar mixture. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to email info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
Yes, I have had several customers use the Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil on a yakisugi/shou sugi ban finish, as well as the Black Pine Tar/Purified Linseed Oil mixture (the Pine Tar would act as a natural insect deterrent). Charring the wood takes a lot of labor and time so using the Pine Tar mixture instead is a much easier option to get a similar look that often lasts much longer on most timber available in North America. Hope this is helpful! Let me know what additional questions come up.
Apologies for the delay. Your comment was missed somehow! No, if you use a purified/degummed/cleaned linseed oil that has been heated in combination with the Pine Tar, it should dry completely. In the first week or two after application, the surface may chalk slightly when touched but when fully cured it will achieve its final harder finish. Hope this is helpful. If you have additional question, reach out to info@earthandflax.com anytime.
Always mix the pine tar and purified raw linseed oil first. Warm, mix well and apply a thin coat. Just the Purified linseed oil will not have much UV protection. Pine tar is critical for good UV protection
Great question. Back-priming is not required for the traditional materials. I still have folks who do coat all sides. I recommend if you decide to do so, apply just the Purified Linseed Oil or the Purified Linseed Oil and just a small percentage of Pine Tar to the back of the boards as there is no need for UV protection on those surfaces. This is much more economic. Also, ensure you apply thin, even coats and have some way to store the boards in a heated location so they can dry properly and evenly. The Pine Tar should be dry completely before install. Applying the final coat in-place may be ideal as things get cut and bumped around during install. Hope this is helpful. Let me know if any additional questions come up: info@earthandflax.com.
Wow, thank you so much for this video it is really informative! How much time you can wait in between first (linseed oil only) and second (linseed oil and pine tar mixture) layers? I have the linseed oil but no pine tar yet (products take time to arrive), I would like to apply oil already, would that be possible? Thank you in advance ☺
Hi Rick, As long as you use a purified/degummed linseed oil they are almost interchangeable when working with Pine Tar. I like the Viking Raw Linseed Oil (a pale, drying linseed oil) when using the Pine Tar as it has such a small molecular structure and soaks in very effectively on bare wood surfaces in combination with the Pine Tar. A traditional Swedish raw linseed oil may not be ideal as it takes a long, long time to dry so if what you have available is a good, high-quality boiled, that may be your best choice. Hope that is helpful. Let me know what other questions come up.
Will that linseed oil soap work to soften old, hard brushes that were used with linseed oil? And you just put the brushes in the diluted soap until they soften, or how does that process work?
Yes, this can work. I've been able to salvage paint brushes with Purified LO and the Linseed Oil Paint by soaking them in Linseed Oil Soap and water for 24 hrs or so. It's best to keep the brushes in the Purified LO for storage and if the oil begins to skin over with time as the Viking Purified Linseed Oil will do eventually, it is easier to reconstitute the bristles vs. if they fully dry. They are never perfect again but certainly useable. The Pine Tar is a little less forgiving if the brush has really hardened but you can certainly try. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to reach out via info@earthandflax.com if needed.
Yes, we just recommend cleaning old, weathered wood with a petrochemical-free liquid soap like Linseed Oil Soap. Scrub if needed to remove any dirt, air-pollution build-up, organic growth, etc. Rinse well and let dry fully before the application of the Pine Tar mixture. Avoid power washing as it introduces too much moisture into a porous wood surface. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com anytime.
Hi, do you have any photos or videos of aged pine tar finishes. We like the dark tones just wondering how long the finish holds in a costal environment What do you do to seal the end grain and do you suggest coating all sides Thanks
I would direct you to our Instagram as we use that platform as a partial project gallery and there are quite a few projects, especially of the Black Pine Tar options, that you can follow the tags and see current condition. Since the Pine Tar finishes soak into the substrate, they hold-up much better than any modern coating in coastal environments. If the structure is right on the water, it is possible the finish could literally be sand blasted off and need to be refreshed sooner than the recommended 8-10 years. No scraping, sanding, micro-plastics, etc. is key when we talk about maintaining these natural finishes. Simply clean the surfaces and reapply when the finish is damaged or the wood begins to look very dry. Sure, applying to the end grain is always beneficial. Back-priming is not required when using these Pine Tar coatings as there is a capillary effect (soaks deep into the substrate vs. sitting on the surface like a plastic bag). Hope this is helpful. Email info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
Does this get sticky again when wet? If I had used this on a wooden wall that had fabric material touching it, would the pine tar come off onto the fabric went wet?
No, it does not get sticky when wet. As long as you use a good quality, purified/degummed linseed oil, after the 1-2 week cure time the Pine Tar achieves its final harder finish. It is designed for exterior applications only, so keep that in mind.
While soap making is not our speciality, most customers looking for Pine Tar for that purpose are interested in the Dark Pine Tar or the Dalbränd/Fine Kiln Burnt Pine Tar. The Dalbränd/Fine Kiln is the purest form and more expensive. Hope this is helpful.
Pine tar by itself will not protect well as the wood grain will start to check quickly. The purified raw linseed oil is essential for pine tar to work long term. Tested this for 15 years so we have seen this first hand. 50/50 is a great mix.
Linseed Oil is a self-heating oil and a fire hazard if left in crumpled rags/paper towels. Dampen and dispose of rags to avoid any issue. The Pine Tar mixture is not flammable or combustible in the can or on the wall but an exceptional exterior wood preservative with a long history of use. Hope this is helpful. Let me know if any additional questions come up.
Can I apply the pine tar off straight without the two linseed coats? I have pine siding which was treated with an oil base, linseed I imagine, with earthen red color, years ago. It's losing color and looking bare in spots. I was going to pressure wash it, but apparently not now that you don't recommend it, but I still don't know why.
Yes, you can apply the Pine Tar without a "primer" coat of Purified Linseed Oil but you will need to mix or thin the Pine Tar with something in order to apply as it is naturally quite viscous. We recommend the Viking Purified Linseed Oil as then no solvents are required. The most popular ratio is 50/50 but this can be adapted based on personal preference. For your project, you will want to do a good cleaning to remove as much of the old coating as possible (as well as any dirt, carbon, organic growth, etc.) so the Pine Tar can soak in and dry properly. Avoid power washing as it introduces too much moisture deep into the wood. If you do power wash, I recommend a few weeks of dry weather to let the wood really dry out before applying anything to the surface. Hose water, Linseed Oil Soap, and a stiff deck brush is the most efficient method that we have found to prep old wood before painting. Clean, rinse well, and let dry fully before applying your Pine Tar mixture. It is always great idea to do a little test to confirm the best cleaning method to remove the old coating, decide on what color/ratio you prefer, and simply familiarize yourself with the materials before jumping into the larger project. Hope this is helpful!
Thank you for the question Everett - Pine Tar is a breathable coating and doesn't fail like many modern equivalents i.e. it soaks into the porous materials vs. sitting on top. Much depends on the wood type (kiln dried pine needs more maintenance then perhaps a non-kiln dried pine for example) it is applied to and the location of the structure but there is no reason you would have any issues with in zone 4 climate. I would ensure the bare wood surface is clean and dry before application. Do a visual inspection every 5-10 years to determine when maintenance is needed. Feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com with questions.
So I'm using the Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil and it is a pale, drying linseed oil that has be heated quickly to 400+ degrees. Arguably, it is a boiled linseed oil but not heated as long so it maintains a much smaller molecular structure in comparison to a traditional boiled linseed oil. The Viking Purified Linseed Oil is very versatile and because of its excellent penetrative qualities, is perfect in combination with the Authentic Pine Tar. You can use a purified/degummed boiled linseed oil as well but it is more expensive and doesn't soak in as deeply during the cure process of the Pine Tar - not a deal breaker of course. The quality of the linseed oil is probably the most important factor. Hope this is helpful. Let me know what additional questions come up.
Would love to know the cost per square foot of using this system versus a conventional semi-transparent stain....also, can it be applied with a sprayer? Brushing on 2 coats of linseed oil and 2 coats of pine tar by hand, on something as large as a barn would be enormously time consuming (i.e. expensive).
Coverage/cost does depend on the type and dryness of the wood but the long term savings really is in the fact that this is a breathable coating that does not trap moisture, causing the conditions for rot and deterioration. Maintenance is relatively basic as you are reapplying a coat of Purified Linseed Oil as needed when the wood begins to dry out vs. possible peeling, cracking etc. common with most modern, petrochemical paints, stains, etc. Coverage is approximately 550 sq ft per 1 gallon of 50/50 ratio: Pine Tar and Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil. Pine Tar is quite viscous so I do not recommend spraying. You can spray a Linseed Oil Paint or Stain but you really should back-brush it to ensure thin, even coats and a lot of product is lost as soon as it becomes airborne. Spraying is not a big time/cost saver when working with a real oil-based coating. You surface prep and # of coats really depends on the project, wood type, budget, etc. Feel free to reach out at info@earthandflax.com with any additional questions.
You can run anything through a HVLP gun as long as you thin it down appropriately but be aware that thinning it means you need to add more. You'd also need to absolutely hose the wall to seal it. But it's definitely achievable. I've sealed a clinker built hull with a gun and tar.
@@Earthandflaxstudio Peeling and cracking has nothing to do with petrochemicals, it's to do with lack of UV stabilization in the pigment and binding agents. Also if tar is a 'breathable coating that does not trap moisture' how do wooden boats not sink? I've sprayed tar and even pitch through a HVLP gun effectively to coat hulls before. If your product can't go through a gun I suggest figuring out why and fixing it because no one is going to go back to hand painting. For industrial applications HVLP is the norm and has been since the 70's in most places. Also you don't have to fiddle about climbing a ladder then moving it every ten minutes around a giant building you can just use an extension pipe. The cost difference using a gun is IMMENSE. The workload difference is life changing. It turns a job into about 10% the effort. I suggest you try painting a barn in tar one day yourself. :P
@@dr.lexwinter8604 Thank you for your comment. The UV stabilization of synthetic dyes vs. real pigments and petrochemical binders in modern coatings vs. natural oils/resins are certainly factors that contribute heavily to modern paint failure. Modern coatings are very complex petrochemical formulations. There is a big difference between authentic pine tar and petrochemical tar derived from crude oil manufacturing. Perhaps that is where the confusion comes from. A breathable coating allows for moisture to dry out and not be trapped behind a plastic barrier, causing deterioration. Consider how a hydraulic lime-based masonry wall, which is another example of a breathable material combo, does not lead to water on the inside of the wall when it rains. I have had folks spray pine tar successfully but I wouldn’t recommend it. A significant portion of product is lost as soon as it becomes airborne and because these materials soak into the substrate vs. sitting on the surface like a plastic bag, back-brushing is often necessary. If that does not work well for your project, the Authentic Pine Tar and Purified Linseed Oil may not be the best choice for you. The cost savings of using compatible coatings on wood surfaces that do not fail like modern petrochemical formulations, as you may imagine, are the reason these traditional materials are making a comeback. It does take more time and skill. The basic maintenance and longevity of the coating on exterior wood surfaces is why folks are willing to change their methods and expectations. Reach out any time if you have questions: info@earthandflax.com.
It may seem like a time saver but you are pushing so much moisture into a porous wood surface that it will need a few weeks to dry out properly before applying a coating. Always apply Pine Tar and Purified Linseed Oil onto a clean, dry wood surface. At least worth consideration!
We are primarily a web-based business located in Philadelphia. We ship nationally and upon request to Canada as well. If you have any product or project questions feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com anytime.
@@richardmckrell4899 We are transitioning fully to the Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint and Viking Linseed Oil Paint brands. We do have some Allback products still in stock - feel free to make a request if you have specific paint color or product needs.
This is an easy to understand process for applying pine tar and linseed oil for a blackened finish. Thanks!
Great to hear it was helpful! Reach out anytime with questions.
This is a great video! I really hope you put out more in the future. I love your products. I own a 100-year old “century home” and I value these old-world but time-tested products over many of the more modern materials that have not necessarily stood the test of Time.
So glad you enjoyed and found it helpful! I'm working on many more resources (video and otherwise) on the traditional materials. Stay tuned! Don't hesitate to reach out if you have application questions or video content suggestions: info@earthandflax.com
Very nice presentation Natalie!
This video is awesome. Thanks!
Hello,
It is best if the wood is completely dry. It should feel dry to the touch. Waiting a few months is good as well. It depends on you location, climate and season
Thank you. This is a really informative video and it was kind of you to explain the process.
Great to hear it was helpful! Feel free to reach out with project specific questions at info@earthandflax.com anytime.
Great to see you promoting old painting methods in america! They look really good and last a long time. I always try to use linseed oil paint. Im from Sweden, and it is nice to see that you use alot of swedish products. How did you get in to this?
I love your videos! Thank you!
Great to hear!
Very happy to have found your video/website. I have been looking for an authentic way to use pine tar to seal the outside of my peapod boat, something more along the lines of the Nordic heritage...painting it just didn't seem right...
Thanks for the tips. About to tackle 80-year-old tar wood siding that amazingly is still solid despite decades of neglect and rough weather. Are there any special steps I should take for such old, weathered wood?
Also, what to do if we live in a climate that rarely gets above 60F? Will a hot water bath for the pine tar suffice?
Also, what about rain? It can be hard to predict here. Is it going to cause issues if it rains before it dries?
Why does the second coat look so much darker than the first coat? Almost looks like a different pigment entirely. Are there examples of how the pre-mixed pine tar "dark" you carry looks on cedar? I'm looking more for a dark walnut look than full pine tar black. Thanks!
The pigment builds-up as you apply additional coats to the surface. So, a first coat generally on most substrates will have more transparency. You can also adjust this by doing a higher ratio of Black Pine Tar to oil (say a 30/70 ratio) to get more intensity of color with a single coat. Adjust ratio based on personal preference. The Dark Pine Tar color really depends on the wood species used. It ranges from a light honey to a dark honey color. We recommend you do a few tests with the wood you plan to use for your project to confirm ratio and color preference for both Dark and Light Pine Tar options. Below I've included a few links with examples, including our Instagram, which we use as a project gallery and a helpful article comparing the Light and Dark Pine Tar options on our Learning Center. Hope this is helpful. Reach out via info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
instagram.com/earthandflax/
and
www.earthandflax.com/post/light-pine-tar-vs-dark-pine-tar
Keep those videos coming in!
I just saw how to make pine tar on my pac stove. so i had to look up how to mix it and with what. Thanks for the great vid. I like that look. I use a water base stain right now. Its steel wool, vinegar, and cherry koolaid. Looks good and weathers well.
Nice! I've never made Pine Tar from scratch but seen videos on the process. Pretty cool - such a traditional technique. Do your best to use a Purified Linseed Oil as conventional linseed oil usually has many additives/solvents and can have issues drying/with mildew. Really working to provide natural purified/degummed oil-based products as they will always be superior to a water-based formulation on wood.
@@Earthandflaxstudio Try my koolaid trick. You can add coffee grounds to it and some natural oils are produced that way. I noticed that the rain will brighten this color, not fade it. Different wood takes it on differently Worth experimenting since its so cheap to make. You'l have both bases covered for outdoor organic wood treatment. I'm working on using pine sap directly on steel to season it. It seems to hold a high gloss at higher temps than oils.
@@PACstove Very interesting! I was just talking to someone about using coffee grounds as a natural stain with the Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil on a kitchen countertop. Will have to give your method a try soon. Thanks for sharing!
@@Earthandflaxstudio Vinegar and steel wool without the koolaid will actually "antique" the wood. So, you can go both ways with that recipe. Make it new, or make it look old. Good luck. Nice channel. Try it. You'l see.
How soon should you apply the pine tar mixture after the initial purified linseed oil?
The Purified Linseed Oil has a faster dry time by itself vs. the Pine Tar mixture so you can probably apply in the 24-48 hr range. The Purified LO should feel fully dry to the touch before applying the Pine Tar mixture. Hope this is helpful!
I want to paint pine tar on one of our out-buildings that was made with rough sawn wood. So the wood was never planed or sanded. Will the surface still be OK to apply pine tar? BTW your videos are so helpful for us on our 1870s homestead.
Great to hear! Yes, there should be no issue applying on that surface. We would recommend that you clean old wood before application using a petrochemical-free liquid soap like Linseed Oil Soap. Scrub if needed to remove dirt, carbon, organic growth, loose particulate, etc. Rinse well and let dry fully before applying your Pine Tar finish. Generally, rough cut will be thirstier, so to speak, and absorb more natural oils than a smooth cut siding. Hope this is helpful! Reach out via info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
Great video! I plan to finish the siding on my barn with this. We are going to use "green" eastern white pine- is the pine tar well suited for green lumber or would it be better to wait a season before painting so it's drier? Thanks!
Great to hear you enjoyed the vid! Green wood is generally too damp to absorb much of the Pine Tar mixture. If you want to apply something for a little protection, you can apply a thin coat, let soak in for the afternoon, and wipe off any excess before end of day to avoid excess that cannot soak in to gum up on the surface. Otherwise, I would wait a season or two for the wood to dry out a bit - similar to general suggestions for applying a finish to pressure treated wood for example. If you wait, you probably want to do a light cleaning with hose water and Linseed Oil Soap to remove any dirt, pollen, organic growth, etc. Rinse well and let dry fully before applying your Pine Tar mixture. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to email info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
@@Earthandflaxstudio Great- thanks for your reply!
To maximize protection against insects and the elements, could one apply black pine tar to cedar treated with the yakisugi/shou sugi ban method?
Yes, I have had several customers use the Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil on a yakisugi/shou sugi ban finish, as well as the Black Pine Tar/Purified Linseed Oil mixture (the Pine Tar would act as a natural insect deterrent). Charring the wood takes a lot of labor and time so using the Pine Tar mixture instead is a much easier option to get a similar look that often lasts much longer on most timber available in North America. Hope this is helpful! Let me know what additional questions come up.
Assuming correct application, will the surface tend to become sticky in hot weather?
Apologies for the delay. Your comment was missed somehow! No, if you use a purified/degummed/cleaned linseed oil that has been heated in combination with the Pine Tar, it should dry completely. In the first week or two after application, the surface may chalk slightly when touched but when fully cured it will achieve its final harder finish. Hope this is helpful. If you have additional question, reach out to info@earthandflax.com anytime.
Always mix the pine tar and purified raw linseed oil first. Warm, mix well and apply a thin coat. Just the Purified linseed oil will not have much UV protection. Pine tar is critical for good UV protection
If i was going to re-side my house with new pine, would you recommend adding the pine tar to all sides or just the exterior? Thnx!
Great question. Back-priming is not required for the traditional materials. I still have folks who do coat all sides. I recommend if you decide to do so, apply just the Purified Linseed Oil or the Purified Linseed Oil and just a small percentage of Pine Tar to the back of the boards as there is no need for UV protection on those surfaces. This is much more economic. Also, ensure you apply thin, even coats and have some way to store the boards in a heated location so they can dry properly and evenly. The Pine Tar should be dry completely before install. Applying the final coat in-place may be ideal as things get cut and bumped around during install. Hope this is helpful. Let me know if any additional questions come up: info@earthandflax.com.
Wow, thank you so much for this video it is really informative! How much time you can wait in between first (linseed oil only) and second (linseed oil and pine tar mixture) layers? I have the linseed oil but no pine tar yet (products take time to arrive), I would like to apply oil already, would that be possible? Thank you in advance ☺
Hi thanks! What is difference of raw linseed oil to boiled lineeed oil as far as using with Pine tar?
Hi Rick, As long as you use a purified/degummed linseed oil they are almost interchangeable when working with Pine Tar. I like the Viking Raw Linseed Oil (a pale, drying linseed oil) when using the Pine Tar as it has such a small molecular structure and soaks in very effectively on bare wood surfaces in combination with the Pine Tar. A traditional Swedish raw linseed oil may not be ideal as it takes a long, long time to dry so if what you have available is a good, high-quality boiled, that may be your best choice. Hope that is helpful. Let me know what other questions come up.
Question: can’t we use BLO (Allback)? I use my BLO heated for the first coat. Then mix 50/50 blo&pine tar, heated. Comments please!
Will that linseed oil soap work to soften old, hard brushes that were used with linseed oil? And you just put the brushes in the diluted soap until they soften, or how does that process work?
Yes, this can work. I've been able to salvage paint brushes with Purified LO and the Linseed Oil Paint by soaking them in Linseed Oil Soap and water for 24 hrs or so. It's best to keep the brushes in the Purified LO for storage and if the oil begins to skin over with time as the Viking Purified Linseed Oil will do eventually, it is easier to reconstitute the bristles vs. if they fully dry. They are never perfect again but certainly useable. The Pine Tar is a little less forgiving if the brush has really hardened but you can certainly try. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to reach out via info@earthandflax.com if needed.
Hi. Can this be used on weathered cedar siding if cleaned properly?
Yes, we just recommend cleaning old, weathered wood with a petrochemical-free liquid soap like Linseed Oil Soap. Scrub if needed to remove any dirt, air-pollution build-up, organic growth, etc. Rinse well and let dry fully before the application of the Pine Tar mixture. Avoid power washing as it introduces too much moisture into a porous wood surface. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com anytime.
Hi, do you have any photos or videos of aged pine tar finishes. We like the dark tones just wondering how long the finish holds in a costal environment
What do you do to seal the end grain and do you suggest coating all sides
Thanks
I would direct you to our Instagram as we use that platform as a partial project gallery and there are quite a few projects, especially of the Black Pine Tar options, that you can follow the tags and see current condition. Since the Pine Tar finishes soak into the substrate, they hold-up much better than any modern coating in coastal environments. If the structure is right on the water, it is possible the finish could literally be sand blasted off and need to be refreshed sooner than the recommended 8-10 years. No scraping, sanding, micro-plastics, etc. is key when we talk about maintaining these natural finishes. Simply clean the surfaces and reapply when the finish is damaged or the wood begins to look very dry. Sure, applying to the end grain is always beneficial. Back-priming is not required when using these Pine Tar coatings as there is a capillary effect (soaks deep into the substrate vs. sitting on the surface like a plastic bag). Hope this is helpful. Email info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
Does this get sticky again when wet? If I had used this on a wooden wall that had fabric material touching it, would the pine tar come off onto the fabric went wet?
No, it does not get sticky when wet. As long as you use a good quality, purified/degummed linseed oil, after the 1-2 week cure time the Pine Tar achieves its final harder finish. It is designed for exterior applications only, so keep that in mind.
How to get pure pine tare for soap making?
While soap making is not our speciality, most customers looking for Pine Tar for that purpose are interested in the Dark Pine Tar or the Dalbränd/Fine Kiln Burnt Pine Tar. The Dalbränd/Fine Kiln is the purest form and more expensive. Hope this is helpful.
What if I apply bruntjara without any linseed oil. To bare prepped wood. It'll just take a few days longer to dry no?
Pine tar by itself will not protect well as the wood grain will start to check quickly. The purified raw linseed oil is essential for pine tar to work long term. Tested this for 15 years so we have seen this first hand. 50/50 is a great mix.
.....very flamable !!!! ☝️☝️☝️
Linseed Oil is a self-heating oil and a fire hazard if left in crumpled rags/paper towels. Dampen and dispose of rags to avoid any issue. The Pine Tar mixture is not flammable or combustible in the can or on the wall but an exceptional exterior wood preservative with a long history of use. Hope this is helpful. Let me know if any additional questions come up.
Can I apply the pine tar off straight without the two linseed coats? I have pine siding which was treated with an oil base, linseed I imagine, with earthen red color, years ago. It's losing color and looking bare in spots.
I was going to pressure wash it, but apparently not now that you don't recommend it, but I still don't know why.
Yes, you can apply the Pine Tar without a "primer" coat of Purified Linseed Oil but you will need to mix or thin the Pine Tar with something in order to apply as it is naturally quite viscous. We recommend the Viking Purified Linseed Oil as then no solvents are required.
The most popular ratio is 50/50 but this can be adapted based on personal preference.
For your project, you will want to do a good cleaning to remove as much of the old coating as possible (as well as any dirt, carbon, organic growth, etc.) so the Pine Tar can soak in and dry properly.
Avoid power washing as it introduces too much moisture deep into the wood. If you do power wash, I recommend a few weeks of dry weather to let the wood really dry out before applying anything to the surface.
Hose water, Linseed Oil Soap, and a stiff deck brush is the most efficient method that we have found to prep old wood before painting.
Clean, rinse well, and let dry fully before applying your Pine Tar mixture.
It is always great idea to do a little test to confirm the best cleaning method to remove the old coating, decide on what color/ratio you prefer, and simply familiarize yourself with the materials before jumping into the larger project.
Hope this is helpful!
@@Earthandflaxstudio thank you for your detailed response. I hope to do this soon, and do a good job!
@@Earthandflaxstudio In what way does it come out differently if you prime with linseed oil vs starting with the pine tar straight off?
How many years do you think this might last on a house in climate zone 4?
Thank you for the question Everett - Pine Tar is a breathable coating and doesn't fail like many modern equivalents i.e. it soaks into the porous materials vs. sitting on top. Much depends on the wood type (kiln dried pine needs more maintenance then perhaps a non-kiln dried pine for example) it is applied to and the location of the structure but there is no reason you would have any issues with in zone 4 climate. I would ensure the bare wood surface is clean and dry before application. Do a visual inspection every 5-10 years to determine when maintenance is needed. Feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com with questions.
Why use raw linseed oil? Boiling it enables polymerization
So I'm using the Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil and it is a pale, drying linseed oil that has be heated quickly to 400+ degrees. Arguably, it is a boiled linseed oil but not heated as long so it maintains a much smaller molecular structure in comparison to a traditional boiled linseed oil. The Viking Purified Linseed Oil is very versatile and because of its excellent penetrative qualities, is perfect in combination with the Authentic Pine Tar. You can use a purified/degummed boiled linseed oil as well but it is more expensive and doesn't soak in as deeply during the cure process of the Pine Tar - not a deal breaker of course. The quality of the linseed oil is probably the most important factor. Hope this is helpful. Let me know what additional questions come up.
Would love to know the cost per square foot of using this system versus a conventional semi-transparent stain....also, can it be applied with a sprayer? Brushing on 2 coats of linseed oil and 2 coats of pine tar by hand, on something as large as a barn would be enormously time consuming (i.e. expensive).
Coverage/cost does depend on the type and dryness of the wood but the long term savings really is in the fact that this is a breathable coating that does not trap moisture, causing the conditions for rot and deterioration. Maintenance is relatively basic as you are reapplying a coat of Purified Linseed Oil as needed when the wood begins to dry out vs. possible peeling, cracking etc. common with most modern, petrochemical paints, stains, etc.
Coverage is approximately 550 sq ft per 1 gallon of 50/50 ratio: Pine Tar and Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil.
Pine Tar is quite viscous so I do not recommend spraying. You can spray a Linseed Oil Paint or Stain but you really should back-brush it to ensure thin, even coats and a lot of product is lost as soon as it becomes airborne. Spraying is not a big time/cost saver when working with a real oil-based coating. You surface prep and # of coats really depends on the project, wood type, budget, etc. Feel free to reach out at info@earthandflax.com with any additional questions.
You can run anything through a HVLP gun as long as you thin it down appropriately but be aware that thinning it means you need to add more. You'd also need to absolutely hose the wall to seal it. But it's definitely achievable. I've sealed a clinker built hull with a gun and tar.
@@Earthandflaxstudio Peeling and cracking has nothing to do with petrochemicals, it's to do with lack of UV stabilization in the pigment and binding agents. Also if tar is a 'breathable coating that does not trap moisture' how do wooden boats not sink? I've sprayed tar and even pitch through a HVLP gun effectively to coat hulls before. If your product can't go through a gun I suggest figuring out why and fixing it because no one is going to go back to hand painting. For industrial applications HVLP is the norm and has been since the 70's in most places. Also you don't have to fiddle about climbing a ladder then moving it every ten minutes around a giant building you can just use an extension pipe. The cost difference using a gun is IMMENSE. The workload difference is life changing. It turns a job into about 10% the effort. I suggest you try painting a barn in tar one day yourself. :P
@@dr.lexwinter8604 Thank you for your comment. The UV stabilization of synthetic dyes vs. real pigments and petrochemical binders in modern coatings vs. natural oils/resins are certainly factors that contribute heavily to modern paint failure.
Modern coatings are very complex petrochemical formulations.
There is a big difference between authentic pine tar and petrochemical tar derived from crude oil manufacturing. Perhaps that is where the confusion comes from.
A breathable coating allows for moisture to dry out and not be trapped behind a plastic barrier, causing deterioration. Consider how a hydraulic lime-based masonry wall, which is another example of a breathable material combo, does not lead to water on the inside of the wall when it rains.
I have had folks spray pine tar successfully but I wouldn’t recommend it. A significant portion of product is lost as soon as it becomes airborne and because these materials soak into the substrate vs. sitting on the surface like a plastic bag, back-brushing is often necessary.
If that does not work well for your project, the Authentic Pine Tar and Purified Linseed Oil may not be the best choice for you.
The cost savings of using compatible coatings on wood surfaces that do not fail like modern petrochemical formulations, as you may imagine, are the reason these traditional materials are making a comeback.
It does take more time and skill. The basic maintenance and longevity of the coating on exterior wood surfaces is why folks are willing to change their methods and expectations.
Reach out any time if you have questions: info@earthandflax.com.
@@Earthandflaxstudio love this incredibly articulate burn
great
yeah, ill be power washing
It may seem like a time saver but you are pushing so much moisture into a porous wood surface that it will need a few weeks to dry out properly before applying a coating. Always apply Pine Tar and Purified Linseed Oil onto a clean, dry wood surface. At least worth consideration!
where are you located?
We are primarily a web-based business located in Philadelphia. We ship nationally and upon request to Canada as well. If you have any product or project questions feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com anytime.
Are you an Allback official distributor? I didn't see you listed as a distributor on Allback's website.
@@richardmckrell4899 We are transitioning fully to the Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint and Viking Linseed Oil Paint brands. We do have some Allback products still in stock - feel free to make a request if you have specific paint color or product needs.
Great I'll call you tomorrow.
@@richardmckrell4899 Feel free to email any questions or requests to info@earthandflax.com. Great to hear you are interested in Linseed Oil Paint!
Thanks for the great info & help! Beautiful, smart, & handy . . . . Will you marry me?! LOL!,
Thanks!
ugh i can watch you talk all morning long, you fox.