It's curious to me that the two shoes appear to be so similar in form and function. Any idea how they might compare to common Scarpa or La Sportiva models? Like the Skwama, Otaki, or Vapor V for examples? Also how's the sizing relative to your street size?
I only had a chance to use them for the gym demo and I definitely would prefer to test climbing shoes both indoors and outside and for at least a few hard sessions. It is always a good test for me to get on climbs/ boulder problems that I have done before, in shoes that I am super familiar with, and then compare the feel and performance to the new shoes. Obviously this is all based on how they fit my foot and my preference for softer shoes with an aggressive toe down fit. But with that said... I did get a decent feel for how these climbed at the gym and I thought they were both best suited for people who like high performance sensitive shoes. The main differences were in the fit and function. Heel The newer heel design on the Gomi seemed pretty close to a perfect fit for me, while the Comps were a bit tighter and angled where it hits the achilles on the back of the heel. But the comps weren't uncomfortable, just a smidgen more dead space in the heel cup. If you have used the original Acros then expect them to fit almost the same but with a less bulky feel and a more sensitive heel. Toe Hooking The toe hooking rubber area on the Gomi covers a bit more and also felt a little bit more flexible for bending the toes backwards than the Comps. But the Comps seemed to have thinner toe rubber which allowed more feeling and have more rubber than a lot of shoes in general for toe hooking. So both are good for toe hooking but I prefer the Gomi. Forefoot The forefoot on the Comps felt slightly more sensitive and precise but a little more boxy than the Gomi. Both great and each person will like one or the other better. Both shoes have excellent velcro closing straps. They don't have a bunch of extra flap that you need to cut off and they tighten down and don't budge. Locked and loaded. Regarding the comparison to Scapra Vs... I had a pair of Scarpa Vs and didn't fit them so well. The toe hooking felt a little sloppy with some dead space and didn't find them to break in and get more comfortable just less precise. The Gomi and Comps are both more sensitive. Regarding the comparison to Sportiva Otaki and Skawmas, I have never owned either but have tried them on at my local shop a few times. The Otaki are way stiffer than either of the Butoras, and the Otaki do not have toe hook rubber. Boo! The Skamas felt similar in terms of sensitivity to the Gomi, but the heel, toe hooking and over all fit of the Gomis and Comps were better for me. Hope this helps a bit. And if I ever actually get to own a pair of either of these Butoras and climb more in them, I will definitely update the review.
Hello, I know it's been a while, but I was just wondering what kind of foot do you have (Greek, Roman, Egyptian)? I recently got Scarpa Instinct VSRs and they fit my Greek foot shape well, but I have a Wider forefoot and narrow heel, which makes the heel baggy. Thanks!
@@esonsei dang it. I have Greek, Flat feet with wide to narrow foot shape. Even though i just got my scarpa's like 2 months ago, heel hooking feels so bad, it makes the vacuum noise, there's some dead space... which is why ive been looking for my next shoe (probably gonna get in like a year tbh). thanks for the heads up.
@@D4NKN4 I have Greek foot and the Gomi's were instantly my favorite climbing shoe from my first session with them. They are like a rubber glove. It's insane. Beyond comfortable but soft but rigid? I don't know how to explain it. The grip on them is crazy. You can get on volumes extremely confidently but I had no issue edging on smaller holds as well. Phenomenal shoes for outdoor climbing as well. I would use them in the gym during the week and take them outside for Deep Water Soloing on the weekends. I recently swapped them out for the Butora Acros, which are even MORE comfortable, which is crazy, but I feel slightly less connected to my acros than I do my Gomis. The acros feel lighter due to the more mesh construction. The rubber on the top is also thinner so toe hooking on the bone on top of my foot hurts on the Acros whereas I never noticed that on the Gomis. There is some dead space on the Gomis (in the heel) for my foot which I never actually noticed until I went Deep Water Soloing and had water in my shoes. For reference, I currently own Scarpa Furias and Instincts (2017), La Sport Miuras, Theorys, Finales, Solutions, and then my Acros and Gomis. Without a doubt my favorite shoes are my Butoras. I can wear both pairs for 6 hours straight without even considering taking them off. I love how much rubber they have so I don't have to be particular with toe hooking. The heel hooking capability is so confidence inducing. They fit like a glove (ESPECIALLY the Gomis). Imo they are the best bang for buck shoe on the market.
@@thematrix3431 daaang thats really dope. i have Scarpa Instinct VSR, im still fairly new to climbing (nearly a year now). I currently wear them in street shoe size (EU41.5) because i can't fathom any more pain on my toes and their knuckles, but the main issue is the heel yeah. the dead space is humongous, heel hooking is really iffy and feels like the shoe will off sometimes. Even though I recently got these shoes, I'm on the lookout for my next purchase so i can properly heel hook. I can't find any Butoras at my place so I sadly can't try them on before purchasing. But, thanks for the feedback! I'll consider it!
Hey great review. Haven't seen much out there on these two new shoes. A couple of questions if you have a sec... How was the sizing compared to street shoe? And did you size both the Acro Comp and Gomi the same? Did they feel the same in terms of fit at the same size? Was the heel randing in the Acro Comp a lot more aggressive than the Gomi? I had issues with the heel of the original orange Acros; found the heel randing way too aggressively pushed forward for my shallow heel. Created dead space right behind my heel. So I'm hoping they mellowed it out a bit. Any thoughts after a few weeks on which you like better? Thanks!
I found them similar when it came to over all aggressiveness. Both are for performance not for a more general comfort shoe. I wouldn't do all day trad routes in either of these. But they are both great for the gym, bouldering, sport climbing (single pitch). The heel on the Gomi fit me slightly better. But the new heel on the Comps is an improvement from the Acro orange. I had the same issue with the Acro originals and it seems the comps are better. The Comp are a slight bit more sensitive in the toe area than the Gomi. Not sure which ones I would like better after using them for awhile ( I only got to use them for 1 night) but both were sensitive and all around great high performance shoes. I would give them both a 5 star rating but I am very used to 5.10 rubber (stealth c4 and m16). Hope this helps.
Hey Jeff. Thanks, glad you dug the quick review. I wear a street shoe size 9.5 and I tried the 9 and 8.5 in both Butoras. The 9 were nice, snug and a good general performance fit and would not get too uncomfortable doing single pitch sport routes. The 8.5 in both shoes were tight tight, better for hard bouldering where I would take them off in between attempts. And then of course is the narrow or wider fit variable. With the wider fit, the 8.5 felt better and prefer the colors of the wider ones. I would not suggest either the Gomi or Comps for easy - moderate climbing. Regarding your heel comments and questions... funny I was just writing about that to someone else and it was almost word for word what are talking about. This is what I wrote. "The newer heel design on the Gomi seemed pretty close to a perfect fit for me, while the Comps were a bit tighter and angled where it hits the achilles on the back of the heel. But the comps weren't uncomfortable, just a smidgen more dead space in the heel cup. If you have used the original Acros then expect them to fit almost the same but with a less bulky feel and a more sensitive heel" The heel on the new Comps is better for me than the Acros. Less harsh. But if you want a really different heel, I recommend the Gomi. Hope this helps.
Great review!
It's curious to me that the two shoes appear to be so similar in form and function. Any idea how they might compare to common Scarpa or La Sportiva models? Like the Skwama, Otaki, or Vapor V for examples? Also how's the sizing relative to your street size?
I only had a chance to use them for the gym demo and I definitely would prefer to test climbing shoes both indoors and outside and for at least a few hard sessions. It is always a good test for me to get on climbs/ boulder problems that I have done before, in shoes that I am super familiar with, and then compare the feel and performance to the new shoes.
Obviously this is all based on how they fit my foot and my preference for softer shoes with an aggressive toe down fit.
But with that said... I did get a decent feel for how these climbed at the gym and I thought they were both best suited for people who like high performance sensitive shoes. The main differences were in the fit and function.
Heel
The newer heel design on the Gomi seemed pretty close to a perfect fit for me, while the Comps were a bit tighter and angled where it hits the achilles on the back of the heel. But the comps weren't uncomfortable, just a smidgen more dead space in the heel cup. If you have used the original Acros then expect them to fit almost the same but with a less bulky feel and a more sensitive heel.
Toe Hooking
The toe hooking rubber area on the Gomi covers a bit more and also felt a little bit more flexible for bending the toes backwards than the Comps. But the Comps seemed to have thinner toe rubber which allowed more feeling and have more rubber than a lot of shoes in general for toe hooking. So both are good for toe hooking but I prefer the Gomi.
Forefoot
The forefoot on the Comps felt slightly more sensitive and precise but a little more boxy than the Gomi. Both great and each person will like one or the other better.
Both shoes have excellent velcro closing straps. They don't have a bunch of extra flap that you need to cut off and they tighten down and don't budge. Locked and loaded.
Regarding the comparison to Scapra Vs... I had a pair of Scarpa Vs and didn't fit them so well. The toe hooking felt a little sloppy with some dead space and didn't find them to break in and get more comfortable just less precise. The Gomi and Comps are both more sensitive. Regarding the comparison to Sportiva Otaki and Skawmas, I have never owned either but have tried them on at my local shop a few times. The Otaki are way stiffer than either of the Butoras, and the Otaki do not have toe hook rubber. Boo! The Skamas felt similar in terms of sensitivity to the Gomi, but the heel, toe hooking and over all fit of the Gomis and Comps were better for me.
Hope this helps a bit. And if I ever actually get to own a pair of either of these Butoras and climb more in them, I will definitely update the review.
@@ivangreene8918 Beautiful Thanks for the update mate. Keep crushing it and sweet kneebar in that video.
Hello, I know it's been a while, but I was just wondering what kind of foot do you have (Greek, Roman, Egyptian)? I recently got Scarpa Instinct VSRs and they fit my Greek foot shape well, but I have a Wider forefoot and narrow heel, which makes the heel baggy.
Thanks!
The heel on this shoe is quite low volume. Won’t suit those with flat feet + thicker heel.
@@esonsei dang it. I have Greek, Flat feet with wide to narrow foot shape. Even though i just got my scarpa's like 2 months ago, heel hooking feels so bad, it makes the vacuum noise, there's some dead space... which is why ive been looking for my next shoe (probably gonna get in like a year tbh).
thanks for the heads up.
@@D4NKN4 I have Greek foot and the Gomi's were instantly my favorite climbing shoe from my first session with them. They are like a rubber glove. It's insane. Beyond comfortable but soft but rigid? I don't know how to explain it. The grip on them is crazy. You can get on volumes extremely confidently but I had no issue edging on smaller holds as well. Phenomenal shoes for outdoor climbing as well. I would use them in the gym during the week and take them outside for Deep Water Soloing on the weekends.
I recently swapped them out for the Butora Acros, which are even MORE comfortable, which is crazy, but I feel slightly less connected to my acros than I do my Gomis. The acros feel lighter due to the more mesh construction. The rubber on the top is also thinner so toe hooking on the bone on top of my foot hurts on the Acros whereas I never noticed that on the Gomis.
There is some dead space on the Gomis (in the heel) for my foot which I never actually noticed until I went Deep Water Soloing and had water in my shoes.
For reference, I currently own Scarpa Furias and Instincts (2017), La Sport Miuras, Theorys, Finales, Solutions, and then my Acros and Gomis. Without a doubt my favorite shoes are my Butoras. I can wear both pairs for 6 hours straight without even considering taking them off. I love how much rubber they have so I don't have to be particular with toe hooking. The heel hooking capability is so confidence inducing. They fit like a glove (ESPECIALLY the Gomis). Imo they are the best bang for buck shoe on the market.
@@thematrix3431 daaang thats really dope. i have Scarpa Instinct VSR, im still fairly new to climbing (nearly a year now). I currently wear them in street shoe size (EU41.5) because i can't fathom any more pain on my toes and their knuckles, but the main issue is the heel yeah. the dead space is humongous, heel hooking is really iffy and feels like the shoe will off sometimes. Even though I recently got these shoes, I'm on the lookout for my next purchase so i can properly heel hook.
I can't find any Butoras at my place so I sadly can't try them on before purchasing. But, thanks for the feedback! I'll consider it!
Hey great review. Haven't seen much out there on these two new shoes. A couple of questions if you have a sec...
How was the sizing compared to street shoe? And did you size both the Acro Comp and Gomi the same? Did they feel the same in terms of fit at the same size?
Was the heel randing in the Acro Comp a lot more aggressive than the Gomi? I had issues with the heel of the original orange Acros; found the heel randing way too aggressively pushed forward for my shallow heel. Created dead space right behind my heel. So I'm hoping they mellowed it out a bit.
Any thoughts after a few weeks on which you like better?
Thanks!
I found them similar when it came to over all aggressiveness. Both are for performance not for a more general comfort shoe. I wouldn't do all day trad routes in either of these. But they are both great for the gym, bouldering, sport climbing (single pitch).
The heel on the Gomi fit me slightly better. But the new heel on the Comps is an improvement from the Acro orange. I had the same issue with the Acro originals and it seems the comps are better.
The Comp are a slight bit more sensitive in the toe area than the Gomi. Not sure which ones I would like better after using them for awhile ( I only got to use them for 1 night) but both were sensitive and all around great high performance shoes. I would give them both a 5 star rating but I am very used to 5.10 rubber (stealth c4 and m16).
Hope this helps.
Hey Jeff. Thanks, glad you dug the quick review.
I wear a street shoe size 9.5 and I tried the 9 and 8.5 in both Butoras. The 9 were nice, snug and a good general performance fit and would not get too uncomfortable doing single pitch sport routes. The 8.5 in both shoes were tight tight, better for hard bouldering where I would take them off in between attempts. And then of course is the narrow or wider fit variable. With the wider fit, the 8.5 felt better and prefer the colors of the wider ones. I would not suggest either the Gomi or Comps for easy - moderate climbing.
Regarding your heel comments and questions... funny I was just writing about that to someone else and it was almost word for word what are talking about. This is what I wrote.
"The newer heel design on the Gomi seemed pretty close to a perfect fit for me, while the Comps were a bit tighter and angled where it hits the achilles on the back of the heel. But the comps weren't uncomfortable, just a smidgen more dead space in the heel cup. If you have used the original Acros then expect them to fit almost the same but with a less bulky feel and a more sensitive heel"
The heel on the new Comps is better for me than the Acros. Less harsh. But if you want a really different heel, I recommend the Gomi.
Hope this helps.
@@ivangreene8918 I’ve been searching so hard for sizing info so thank you