Great video! These are greatly appreciated. I'm always worried my boards will run into issues at some point, so these videos are really helpful for future troubleshooting/repairs.
Great video Mike! I've got an MK2 board that's flakey and I need to get it running. I just got my KI2 board fixed by IRepairSega and now I'm really wanting to get the MK2 board working!
Flip it over and use hotair on the backside of the board where the solder is. The chip will fall out with gravity. I prefer to put low melt first, uses very little heat and effort for the chip to fall out. No risk of damaging the chip or disturbing other chips on the good or donor boards.
Time to get replace that cmos chip with NVRAM and ditch that battery for good! I have a shit ton of those cmos chips if you ever need 'em. I always do the no battery mod whenever a T-Unit board crosses my path.
Never have I ever seen such butchery to a somewhat rare circuit board. Just buy some Chip Quik alloy if you're going to use unprofessional techniques and half ass the desoldering stage. Add a little Chip Quik, hit it with the hot air for a few seconds and then pull the package out using pliers so you don't damage traces underneath.
@t0rxe Post a video on your work? Through hole removal of this type is not trivial in contrast to SMD or larger through hole chassis boards. You really need a 0.6 diameter pump nozzle (Hakko N61-01)
Hey Mike! Always a good content! No fancy stuff, just right to the topic! I really enjoy seeing these MK repairs... Keep them coming! :)
Cheers!
flawless victory!
Great video! These are greatly appreciated. I'm always worried my boards will run into issues at some point, so these videos are really helpful for future troubleshooting/repairs.
Great video Mike! I've got an MK2 board that's flakey and I need to get it running. I just got my KI2 board fixed by IRepairSega and now I'm really wanting to get the MK2 board working!
Very good!!! Love the content.
Smeggin awesome repair sir ! 👌 Never amateur.
Thank you.
I find that smooth Needle nose plyers work great for flattening out pins.
Flip it over and use hotair on the backside of the board where the solder is. The chip will fall out with gravity. I prefer to put low melt first, uses very little heat and effort for the chip to fall out. No risk of damaging the chip or disturbing other chips on the good or donor boards.
Well done sir. You usually use parts from doner boards, or also try with a new Sharp LH5268A-10LL?
Thank you. Donor boards. Tried to find those chips in the past and couldn’t.
Time to get replace that cmos chip with NVRAM and ditch that battery for good! I have a shit ton of those cmos chips if you ever need 'em. I always do the no battery mod whenever a T-Unit board crosses my path.
You have any info on how that is accomplished?
I would like to see that mod you are talking about, my friend.
Never have I ever seen such butchery to a somewhat rare circuit board. Just buy some Chip Quik alloy if you're going to use unprofessional techniques and half ass the desoldering stage. Add a little Chip Quik, hit it with the hot air for a few seconds and then pull the package out using pliers so you don't damage traces underneath.
You should re-read the channel name.
@t0rxe Post a video on your work? Through hole removal of this type is not trivial in contrast to SMD or larger through hole chassis boards. You really need a 0.6 diameter pump nozzle (Hakko N61-01)