Mortal Kombat 2 Arcade PCB Repair - Bad CMOS, Bad Inputs, Bad Sound Board...Let's Fix it!
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- Taking a break from the norm and thought some people may enjoy this as well as the chassis repair. If you enjoy it, let me know. Thanks for watching.
Игры
I would definitely like to see more repairs like this in the future. I think a lot of us are as happy as the boards Owner sometimes… To see you revive and save our precious hardware. Thanks mike
I've got a mk2 soundboard with no audio, this video was incredibly helpful
Absolute flippin awesome repair sir , this kontent is phenomenal !
These videos are fascinating to me. Super interesting to see and I can just relax while I learn something.
Love to see more board repairs. I love how you give a description of common faults and common fixes and what to look for. Keep em coming
Good one, mate! BTW, "Ladies and germs" always makes me crack up! LOL
Would LOVE to see an in depth build of your test rig that you use in your videos some day … i mean if you are bored and run out of ideas for content 😆🤞🏼👍🏼
YUP!!! Love to see more board repairs, especially what you do with dead custom chips, daughter board replacements, etc.
Keep up the great work.
Awesome, truly always awesome! Thanks Mike for all of your priceless knowledge you are willing to donate to the community 🙏🏼🤟🏼
I didn’t know you had a second channel! This is great! Awesome!!!
You were both thorough and entertaining! Would love to see Capcom CPS1 repairs sometime, particularly Street Fighter II Champion Edition and Hyper Fighting, but anything on the hardware would be sweet!
Excelent ideia Mike we will love to see some arcade board fixes!
Well done as per the usual, good sir! I also learned a thing or two...double whammy! 👍🏻
Keep up the good work and board videos 👍🏼
I have this board 5 years now it works flawlessly. Every time i had issues it was only because it wanted clean or something else like other things except the two boards . Only a good clean. Thats all.
Love the board repairs!
Mike, the care, knowledge and depth of analysis you displayed would have me trust you with any and all of my pcb's. Have you dabbled with repairing the dreaded KI pcbs? :)
Love the content!! 🕹️
This was awesome.
Awesome work lots of great info!!! More please!! Feed me seymore feed me all night longggg
Hell yeah. This is very interesting.
Thank you sir.
I've never used a hot air station. I'm intrigued. What make/model do you have? And thank you for showing ALL of the work and not cutting things out.
This is what I use…
www.amazon.com/Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Electronics-Desoldering/dp/B09CG282L1/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=QLV9296HZRBC&keywords=hot+air+station+soldering&qid=1646229030&sprefix=hot+air+station%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-9
Awesome
Would you share exact chip model for UJ11? I socketed mine and still BAD U49 CMOS everything else works. Great video thanks again!
Great work, is there an option so that you would repair my pcb?
Oh yeah, those are classic symptoms of missing pull-up or pull-down resistors on inputs
My MK2 board has this exact same input issue!
To remove that logic gate/array you should have used the desoldering gun as your first option.
My gun was clogged and could not be used.
Why don't you ever use flux? great video but was surprised by no use of flux.
The solder has plenty of flux in it. You can never use too much flux but the solder has enough in it for this application. If I was doing surface mount work, it would be a different story. Plus, the braid has a bunch of flux in it as well.
Sorry under my girlfriend log in butMy mk2 cab works but recently getting loud buzzing out of my speaker. It’s something to do with the wire or board but do you know what it could be?
Check to make sure the -5vdc is good and it's not simply a voltage issue. But it's also somewhat normal for them to buzz a bit when the caps need replaced.
Dude do you ever tint the tip of your iron...
No. Not necessary.
What’s your other account?
ruclips.net/user/yourmkarcadesource
My recommendation, use low melt solder or leaded solder to remove the components because lead melts at lower temperature, easier to maintain the solder liquid with lower temperature. Flux is your friend, use it all the time, it helps to distribute the heat. When you do add more solder, basically is what the flux does for you without adding more solder. Excess of heat will make the copper pads to come off. If you do not use flux, it will require more heat and pulling the component can rip the pads. It's true what you said about the board bending, it can cause many cracks in the solder joints. I recommend to flux and re-melt all the joins, especially where the boards are more bent.
Try this steps next time:
Step #1 (Add flux to all solder joints)
Step #2 (Reheat the old regular solder joins adding low melting or leaded solder)
Step #3 (Blow heat the joins and remove the component)
Step #4 (Use the wick to get all the excess solder)
Step #5 (Clean the flux residue with alcohol and inspect the pads)
Step #6 (Once its all clear and clean, add flux again)
Step #7 (Place the component and solder with unleaded solder)
Step #8 (Use alcohol to clean all the flux residue)
And shipping with those feet on is NEVER a good idea!
Hey mike so i just got a problem with mine 1st a led not workn on soundboard no sound i replaced the chip that controls that led nothing..ok now here the problem now the pcb worked fine plays…this what happened so i pushed down some chips on the sound pcb and now the screen is white??? No led on main board and never was in sound i think i killed the board i can smell it.. ill upload a video.. and show you.
ruclips.net/user/shortscS5i9TfiVuY?feature=share