Porsche Valve Adjusting, Oil Chg, New Plugs Cap & Rotor - DIY German Aircooled Garage #5
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2013
- A do it yourself guide to the 15,000 mile engine servicing on your Porsche 911, including valve adjustment, oil change and replacing the cap and rotor.
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I know this is ten years old but what a great video. I am 58 and was a long time 928 owner and do all my own work. Just bought a 1982 911 SC coupe and I am having fun in the garage with 80's tunes and working on the car. Three months later I just had to deal with a leakign return fuel line. You just taught me were to better replace the rear jack stands. Looks like the previos owner let the car sit for a while so I am doing regular maintenance and will need to do the valve adjustment as well. Thanks for the great video.
It’s 2020 and I realize I’m late to the game on this video, but dam! Great explanations man, so helpful.
That was super helpful. I've grown up doing tune-ups on VWs and have just upgraded to a 70's aircooled 911. You've made the approach far less daunting. I've always heard "oh man, Porsche valve adjustments are so much more complex...just pay to have it done". You've helped me gain the confidence to re-evaluate that. Thank you! I love the direct, BS free approach to your editing as well. Incredibly well done!
Great vid. Here is a tip for the oil filter removal. Prior to draining the sump, I take a nail and gently tap a hole on the filter. Remove the drain plug on the sump, it sucks the oil out of the filter, then put a piece of duct tape over the hole, spin it off. You won't hardly spill a drop.
MetalTeamster Now there's some thinking! I like that tip, will try it out for sure.
You are more than welcome. After you do, you won't do it any other way. Happy Motoring :-)
MetalTeamster Great tip. Many times changing oil on a Saab 96 V4 I got the drain plug hot drench!!
Excellent DIY vid! I'm always amazed at how simple and intelligent the 911 motor design is for performance and maintenance. Unlike Ferrari motors I have worked on which require spacers for valve adjustment and talents of a contortionist! I think more owners should get their hands dirty and learn their sports cars better and save a lot of money! Good job.
Fantastic Video. Fan-bloody-tastic. Exactly what I was looking for... embarking on my first engine-tinkering session on my new-old '78 SC weekend. Watched this video five times and finally feel confident enough to get stuck in. Cheers!
Just bought my first aircooled 911 and this will be the first task I'll perform. Thanks for making the video
Awesome tutorial! I just picked up a '75 911 Carrera (been sitting for 10+ years), and have yet to get it running. Hopefully this and your other videos will give me a good start! Thanks for posting it.
going to attempt this next weekend. Just pick up an old 78 SC targa. Thanks for the excellent video!
wow, awesome video. just excellent. definitely gave me the confidence to work on my 83SC!! thanks.
New to 911 sc (1982) ownership - excellent video. Many thanks!
Such an excellent video, bookmarked and watched like 4 times already. Very confidence inspiring! Thank you!
This is great. Just purchased an '84 Targa and will doing all this immediately. Thanks!
Best video I have seen on valve adjustment. Hoping to own a 993 within a few short years, I have a Gen 1 Cayman right now and I love it. +1 sub!
Thanks so much for this. Bought a 911SC a while back, and without any history decided to immediately do all of this. Only a few valves were out of spec, but at least I know they are fine now. The special valve clearance tool is a must. Doing fuel pump and WUR at this time. Thanks again much appreciated.
I’d like to attempt this as it seems very doable. Just one question on the “feel” of the gauge. How do you k ow the right feel if the valve is too loose or tight? Lastly, did you find it easy to know the gauge was in the gap?
It’s a little tricky, but the valve clearance feeler tool from Pelican Parts helps immensely. To know when clearance is correct it should be pretty tight on the gauge, but still move enough to remove with relative ease. Pay very close attention to the way this man turns the engine over by hand to make sure the gap is open all the way. Each adjustment will get easier as you get used to it. Take your time and go slowly. It’s not a hard job technically, it’s pretty tight working space. You should be able to do it if you have reasonable skills. When you order the valve cover gasket set make sure to get the clearance tool. P213 feeler gauge is what I got and worked fine. No other special tools needed. Make sure all surfaces are cleaned up real well when replacing the covers. I used the silicon impregnated gaskets and have been perfectly dry. Good luck. @@thomasdarwish6533
Awesome vid. I cannot wait to adjust my valves. I have changed the oil, the distributor cap and other jobs. Just not the valves myself. I am definitely doing this one. ha ha. I am going to buy the gaskets and valve feeler gauge right away. Thanks.
I needed this Video! I watched the Brake Repair Video (Excellent) got the Bug to do it myself. So simple when I watched you do it! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!
Awesome Tutorial,
thanks a lot you make it sound easy gonna give it a try.
thanks again
Don't even own a Porsche.. but I watched this video anyway lol. Excellent right up 👍
Glad you liked the vid and hope it's useful to you. Unfortunately our series host has a real job that keeps him very busy so no more episodes for now.
awesome video! very informative and well paced.
Great information thanks for taking the time out to do this!
Great video and perfect for a newbie air cooled Porsche owner. Thank you
Thank you for this video!! I know this is 9 years old !! still a lot of help !! Thank you !!!
AMAZING . Thanks for taking your time to show us.
Great job ,very cool mechanic, learned alot !
Thanks much. Saves time looking this up. You'll notice there was no rear blower motor in place. If you pull the lower covers off and find anything broen off , like head studs, that's one of the problems with the older 3.0. The metal used was not what was intended and they break off. Common, but then you need to install all new steel head bolts. Worse case scenario. Good time to haul the motor and do a rebuild.
Thank you for a great Video! I'm ready to tackle my 77 930.
this guy pioneered on porsches 930 DIY videos..
Wow I learned so much in your video. I have a 73 911T. Cheers. Adriana :)
I would like to point out couple of things: the distributor has a notch and when a rotor is aligned with the notch it means that the #1 cylinder is on top dead center,
If you remove the sparkplugs you are risking of getting dirt or something else in the cylinders. Probably is better to loosen them up so the compression can escape from the cylinders thru the loose sparkplugs.
On my 1978 911 you are turning 120 degrees not 180 to adjust the next set of valves. So it is top dead center, 120 degrees, 240 degrees, top dead center, 120 degrees and 240.
The valve clearance is .10 mm. or .004 " ( thousand) of an inch.
The video was good.
I was not intending to take out the wire, just to make sure that the rotor is pointing towards the #1 cylinder wire on the distributor, and I know that there is a notch on the perimeter when you move the distributor cap away. Another point that I was making is that 180 degrees from the top dead end is that you can not adjust any valves on a 6 cylinder engine. On a 4 cylinder engine 180 degrees from the top dead end you can adjust valves on a cylinder. On a VW Beetle if you turn the engine opposite of normal rotation you can adjust first the valves on #1 cylinder, then if you turn counterclockwise 180 degrees you can adjust valves on #2 cylinder, another 180 degrees you can adjust the valves on the #3 cylinder and finally another 180 degrees and you can adjust valves on #4 cylinder.
great video, very informative. thanks for posting it.
Great video, thank you very much!
I have a 2.7 liter engine and the rotation order is top dead center, 120 deg and then 240 deg. So a full crankshaft occurs every 3 piston fires. So top dead center occurs on piston 1 and 4. I also used the backside valve adjustment method as I did not have the Porsche tool, and it seemed to work well.
I've read about the backside valve adjustment method -- I wonder how many guys adjust valves this way? I'll ask the air-cooled Porsche wrench I know here in town (Jay at German Performance Options in Nashville) when I finally get my hands on an SC.
Hi Ryan. I dont have the Porsche tool also. Whats the "backside valve adjustment method "
Careful! I'm rebuilding a 2.7 911S motor.When on Z1 mark on the pulley you are on TDC on either cyl. 1 or 4, not both. Z1 is TDC for both Cyl. but there 360 degrees away. There are ways to check which one your on.
Excellent video! Thanks!
Great video dude. Thanks to share.
Thank you for making this video.
Good morning Dana. I typically go pretty slow..) i would budget 4 plus hours. I see the cost for this service usually around $450.00 - $500.00 depending on where you live. Have fun! good luck!
Very informative and thorough...love the common man approach laced with lots of experience and background. Understand the real jobs call on you...but, would like to see more. How about showing us how to do a chain tensioner collar install? :)
for....tttboyy. your solution works awesome and i've adjsted valves as you suggest many times. For the videos i like keep it super basic and follow the manual. adjusting multiple cyl is a bit more advanced but easy to brainiac out..
Thx!...would be fun to hear the engine before and after valve adjustments.
Great job!
Good video i would recommend changing the spark plugs after the valve adjustment so carbon from the removal of the spark plugs does fall and get logged on the valve seats while turning over the engine creating the wrong adjustment
Thanks. Awesome lesson.
The way I was thought in the school on a 6 cylinder engine is this: you put cylinder #1 on top dead center with the rotor towards #1 cylinder sparkplug wire. Then you turn 120 degrees and in this case #6 cylinder is ready for adjusting, then you turn another 120 degrees ( total 240 degrees ) and then you adjust cylinder #2. Turning another 120 degrees you are now on the top dead center and you can adjust valves on the #4 cylinder ( total 360 degrees from the beginning). Turning another 120 degrees you can adjust valves on #3 cylinder and by turning another 120 degrees you can adjust #5 cylinder. There are no valves that you can adjust on the bottom dead center.
great video
Thank you for the video.
Great video ,thanx
Hi. This is such a well done video. I have decent confidence doing what you documented here. I am a new 911 3.2 owner and have worked on my own vintage BMWs in the past. Do you have a video on doing a DIY for replacing the oil return tubes? Your methods and explanations are SO easy to follow and the videos are well done. Thanks again!
Good Morning Noe. Yes the oil was drained from the motor as well. you can drain the oil from the motor completely by removing the drain plug on the motor or remove the sump plate. i don't always pull the sump plate as i change the oil a bunch. It is a good idea to pull the sump plate and inspect the gunk that build up on the sump cover. the sump cover is magnetic a will gather metal items.
Thanks and have fun!
Phil
That was very good. Thank you.
Very Good Description
Great video thanks. I was wondering why you could not set all 6 valves on one side of the engine while you already have the engine at top dead center rather than moving from tdc to bdc.
Best video. Simple stupid and no nonsense
Awesome how too! Thank you
Working on a short wheel base 2.0 911, the distributor spins clockwise, while turning the engine clockwise. Your animation shows counterclockwise and was throwing me off - but that may be the case on later engines.
Thank you very much!
Brilliant!
love it !!!
I've a 993 C2. I'm halfway thru a 60K mile service. Those ELEVEN 5mm allen bolts, per side, for the lower valve cover gaskets were a pain. And don't get me started with bleeding the clutch (G50) or getting to the small oil filter. And, yes, I'm on jackstands.
Thanks for video
Very helpful!
Can you please tell me the adjustment on the spark lugs . I have a 1976 Porsche 911 2.7 . thanks in advance , and it’s aGreat Video love your work!!!
hi, I have an 1982 sc I have adjusted the valves from your video which is very easy to understand.... but I think I need to replace the cam chains as it still sounds tappy or rattles when running. would you have any tips for doing this...any info much appreciated.
Very good video Thanks. I have a 964 C4. Question: Can i do the valve adjustment with the motor filled with the oil? Or it is mandatory to empty the oil before the valve adjustment?
This video is great. However, I think you meant to say to turn the engine 120 degrees to get from cyl1 TDC to cyl6 TDC. Its 120 degrees between ignition fires.
Yes, he makes a complete mess with his TDC and BDC nonsense. The rest of the vid is good.
You don't have to change the oil to adjust the valves but you might as well since you are in there.
I'd be interested to know your thoughts , good or bad, on the extra air holes in the air filter cover.
The only time both valves are close is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke of any given cylinder. At Bottom Dead Center depending on cam timing one or both valves will be open due to camshaft lobe overlap. Both valves must be closed to adjust both the valves on any cylinder. Statements in this video about alternating TDC/BDC are incorrect.
hi, are you going to upload more interesting videos in the future? I find them very informative and useful. This video gave me the courage to adjust the valves on my own 1985 911.
Right on! that was the aim of the video series, so if we are inspiring folks to work on their own cars we are a success. We won't rule out future videos, but real jobs have taken priority for the time being. Thanks!
Great job and save a ton of money by DIY. Even if I have the money, I still hate going to the dealers or outside independents because I just flat don't trust them. All the pro-mechanics have their own short-cuts and at times having to rework myself to retrofit their sloppy work just raises my blood-pressure.
Great vid, thx. Hey what bike have you got there ? Honda VTX owner here, AZ.
Great video. I know it's old, but I have a 76' 911S w/2.7 and super low compression, high bleed through. Hasn't run in 15 years. Wondering what if any you'd recommend to 'Try' & avoid a total rebuild. Thx! -J
Good Luck 930 Scarlet.. Have fun and let us know how it went. Phil
I have moisture in the oil cap. would the valve adjustment solve that problem?
I noticed you did not put any adhesive on the exhaust valve cover gasket - any reason why? Also do you not need to torque the exhaust valve cover bolts?
I'm a little confused when you refer to the timing marks on the crank pulley. At 06:59 you refer to the right hand mark on the crank pulley as being TDC but at 07:04 it seems that the left hand mark is lined up with the crankcase mark. Am I missing something?
Here is another one to thank you for a fantastic video! I have a couple of newbie questions, though. Forgive my ignorance, but how can a distributor rotor be pointing to a cylinder while that cylinder is at bottom (a opposed to top) dead center, as stated regarding cylinder 6 around the 14-minute mark on the video? Also, why would one adjust the valves at BDC on one side and at TDC on the other? Wouldn't it be better to adjust at TDC for all cylinders? That would be doable, wouldn't it?
Finally, it would be great if you could post a video on bleeding the brakes/clutch/traction control on a 964 C4 - as you know, these cars have a unique pressurized system that does not employ vacuum boosting and a scan tool needs to be used for the bleeding procedure. There are no videos on that anywhere - I'm sure that you would attract of lot of new folks to your great channel if you were the first to do it and do it as well as you typically do.
Thanks again.
Maxwell Smart Ok would you believe top dead sideways...No...Ok, how about.....
(Sorry had to make a Maxwell Smart joke.)
As channel moderator I am going to have to direct you to the "leave messages" area of our website diygermanaircooled.com for answers to questions 1-3. I don't know where our host is at the moment, but that should get you through to him. I doubt we will be getting our hands on a 964 C4 anytime soon unless we have a generous volunteer or sponsor. Thanks for watching. I know the method demonstrated in the video works.
Nice job buddy. But I thought your gonna start the car up "
The Best Video on Porsche 911 services I ever seen easy to understand not like other RUclips Idiots....lol.😂😅✌🇩🇪👍
bom vídeo
Just found your channel. Great video and would love to have you as a neighbor to help with my car..Going to check our your other videos. Thanks.
A very well done video! When you mention the spark plug tool and the valve adjustor tool, are they a part of the Porsche tool kit that comes with the car or did you buy a separate tool kit? If so where did you get it? Thank you in advance.
Thanks, glad you liked the video. The spark plug tool is from the Porsche tool kit, you can find them on E-Bay or order them from Porsche. The Porsche valve adjust feeler gauge is available many places on-line or at your local foreign parts dealer.
Great piece. Was wondering if I was going to try to do this myself when the time came for a major service. This took a lot of the mystery out of it from reading it online and in books. I'll save the $1,000 my mechanic was going to charge me and do this at home. Question: I didn't get a real feel of how snug you were letting the feeler gauge get during the valve adjustment. Is it just snug enough to bite on the feeler a bit? from what I read you don't want to cinch it down too tight.
The resistance on the feeler gauge is similar to pulling a piece of paper out from underneath an empty glass on a table.
The sound track is a 4- cylinder.
@DIYGermanAircooled are you still around? i have a few questions about this adjustment! First time doing this and was wondering a few things. GREAT video tho!!!
Only the videographer remains. I'm not as knowlegable as the host but I know a couple things. Go ahead and ask.
@@mattstacey52 man, I am sorry to hear the host is no longer around. I had a few questions: 1. Just got a 83 SC and looking into doing it myself. Never worked on porsche but have worked on other vehicles. doable? 2. What would be a good all around maintenance to do if you just got the car? 3. Any tips/comments on how to fix the locking mechanisms of doors? Thanks in advance!
Good evening you have how to pass me the calibration of the intake and exhaust valves of the Porsche Targa 911 year of manufacture 1974
Boa noite você tem como me passar a medida da calibragem de válvulas de admissão e escape da Porsche Targa 911 ano de fabricação 1974
Hi, what year model is your porsche here? I notice that my 1983 911 sc has the Z1 mark to the left of the 5 degree mark where as yours seems to be to the right.
It's a 1974. Our second episode "Track Day" talks about it, shows it on the track. This episode # 5 talks about the possibility of differences in engine timing and firing order according to year and displacement.
Did you drain the oil from the engine as well (2nd drain plug)? There's supposed to be a sump screen-filter that can be cleaned as well by removing some bolts holding the sump plate in place. I'm just curious as that is what I'm planning on doing when I do my next oil change.
Any experience/tips on that?
Hello, sorry it took so long for the response but. Yes you should dump from the 2nd/motor drain plug. My motor is relatively new and well broken in so I don't clean the screen every oil change but it is recommended if the motor is new or heavily worked. The screen will catch metal shavings and/or debris and cleaning/inspecting will help you understand if you have something bad or broken inside.
Thanks for the info. You produce great videos, I really appreciate them.
Hi I am having difficulty removing the spark plugs from the front left and rear right position. Is this a common problem or is there a special tool as it is impossible for me to see what I am doing in there. Many thanks for the very useful video. 63sven
+David Pengilly Yes the factory Porsche spark plug wrench is featured in the video
+David Penally Hi David. I´ve watched your videos of your backdate project. Also I´ve watched this video and done the job on my own 911. You HAVE to use the factory Porsche spark plug wrench. I´ve tried other methods, but they´re all not worth the effort.
Where do you get those Spark Plug Wrenches or tool kits? I have a 1977 Targa with a 3.0
+FA Barragan That wrench is a Porsche part. I would try a dealership. or maybe try a porsche/vw swapmeet or junkyard.
+DIYGermanAircooled Thank You!
Did you build this engine or did you have someone do it for you? The reason I ask is I live in Des Moines, WA and am interested in who the builders are in the area. If you did it yourself was it difficult? Thanks.
I did not build the motor myself. 911 motor tolerances are very tight and not an easy motor to rebuild yourself. There is a ton of machining work to do and although possible for a laymen to put back together, I find that a pro will build a much more reliable and higher performing motor.
I did remove the motor and disassemble down to the long block myself before taking it to my good friend and great Porsche mechanic Monty the owner of Redmond European.
Redmond European
425-376-2655
Tell Monty Phil Goeckler sent you.
Hello, Phil your host here... I'm available for questions, suggestions and would love to hear and/or help with your projects. I'm always looking for projects and/or finding cars for people who have the passion... have fun!
930 engine white smoke coming halp
Most of the video is great but just to be clear it is not correct when talking about bottom dead centre. The marks on the flywheel pulley are in 3 places (12 o click, 4 o clock and 8 o clock) not two. He puts up a diagram saying that cylinders 1,2, & 3 are adjusted at TDC and 4,5,and 6 are at BDC. This is not correct. Each time you move on to the next cylinder you rotate the engine 120 degrees not 180 degrees to the next mark on the pulley. So for example cylinder 1 is at TDC, 12 o clock, 6 is then at 4 o clock, then 2 is at 8 o clock, then 4 is at 12 o clock, then 3 is at 4 o clock and 5 is at 8 o clock. Hope this helps. Other than this it was a useful video
Thank you for this critical/helpful clarification. Is the video correct in showing the 12 o'clock mark on the flywheel pulley with 2 notches and what I now assume to be the 4 o'clock with one notch? If so, how many notches has the 8 o'clock mark? I would think that the 12 o'clock mark should be the one with one notch (?). TIA
Not quite so easy if you have an a/c compressor...
Wow first negative comment on this video in ten years. ausgezeichnet der ubermensch.