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Shrimp. Could you put the vacuum hose connector centered on the bottom of the dust collection box rather than the side so it captures all of the dust? Maybe angle the bottom of the dust box down or even have a rounded funnel like bottom with the vacuum connector in the center of the funnel bottom?
Shrimp. Consider placing a hole with a shutter in the door in line with the speed control. This does 3 things. 1 the additional airflow will keep the speed control area clean from accumulating chips & dust. 2 you can tune the amount of airflow passing thru the cutter bit opening to be as strong as you wish. 3 by increasing airflow the dust collection motor will not have to work harder than necessary (producing a high negative pressure) causing unnecessary wear & power consumption. And if I am wrong - just close the shutter. Best wishes for success. Rod.
Shrimple fix for increasing air flow and keeping dust out the corners. Drill small holes in the corners so you can get air flowing across the the bottom of the box. You have more than enough air volume that it won’t make a difference up top. Just needs some intake holes to get it flowing toward the dc port
Adding to a good idea - Best way to identify where to drill the holes is to note where you have some build up. By drilling the holes at that point you ensure that there is air travelling from that point to the air outlet. This method is particularly effective if your dust extraction system is based on high air volume rather than high air pressure. Based on the size of your outlet I’d say it’s a high air volume flow system ( the best in my view)
I think a bigger concern, rather than collecting every bit of the sawdust, you have to take into account cooling your router. It needs air flow around and through the motor. This is particularily important if you're doing a lot of routing. Your vacuum already directs the air flow. so if you cut a 1/2' to 3/4" slot the length of the side opposite your dust port, the evacuation would not suffer. It's not going to depend on the amount of negative air pressure (vacuum) you develop, but rather on the speed and volume of air flow through the box.
Agreed with this. could solve the router cooling, and residual dust collection at the bottom of the box easily, by putting intake vents at the bottom of the door, nearly flush with the bottom of the box. Air will move across the router to help keep it cool, and also sweep across the bottom of the box, helping to keep it clean and minimize dust build up. But ideally the dust port should be flush with the bottom of the box as well so that dust can flow unobstructed into the port.
I was thinking of the same thing, and also we need to consider chances of dust accumulating inside the router because the box sits so close to the router itself. I think that 1) the box can be deeper so dust won't be riding so close to the router when riding along the bottom of the box and 2) have some diverting skirt to encourage dust to flow outside of the router when they fall through the hole. Having intake holes at he right place will also encourage fresh air to flow through the router minimizing dust build up.
I was about to point this flaw out, but it’s good that others noted it. I don’t know whether the sawdust affects the internals of the router, or how much, but it is an inevitable eventuality that they will be affected, especially the commutator bars and brushes, not to mention the bearings if they are the open type. So perhaps an open port for the router cooling intake at the botttom, coupled with a rubber boot that fits snugly around the router and makes a solid seal for the bottom of the dust collection enclosure would be best, though the router intake may affect the suction power somewhat.
@@cindyhammack68 Is the motor on the computer fan totally enclosed? I wonder if there is any concern with fire on a fan motor that is not meant to be in outrageously dusty environment like a dust collection box beneath a router
Shrimp are by far the best at collecting fine particles so you should call this the shrimp box, also you should put the door on top if the fixed panel so any reminisce dust stays inside the box , and a stronger vacuum might help rather than a second hose, because all the air is concentrated into one place, but overall a very cool build
To have your router enclosed in that msnner will definitely restrict the necessary air flow to age motor of your router, as saw dust itself can clog the ports if the motor. A better position would be to have the bottom of the box to surround the upper guide of the plunge router frame. Use some flexible foam between the router frame and box bottom will protect the router frame from the bottom of the new pan. With a smaller volume the lower motor vents( now upwards), should easily be kept from clogging. If the suction noise is a problem, install an adjustable gate on hose port of the dust collection system you can decrease the amount of suction to tune the air flow to an acceptable noise level. Since you seem to be using the dust collection for your table saw, you should consider using a Y connection with hoses for each tool to save time changing between them. This alone may help with the noise level as it can still be pulling air from the table saw.
There is an immense amount of fresh air being pulled past that router that I doubt there are any concerns with heat degredation by being left inside of a tiny box.
@@rickkern5785 even in this video, the enclosure limits the height of possible drawers underneath. My suggestion could also be accomplished with “ cant” boards inside the enclosure directed ti a side opening at the bottom. The basic premise it rpto draw dust from the motor air inlets, which if clogged causes the motor to overheat and fail.
Hey Shrimp...I would think a bottom mounted dust hose would capture almost 100% of the dust but in your case it doesn't work because of the cabinet you have there. Either way, it seems a much better solution that letting the sawdust (router dust?) hit the floor.
Lobster. I have another idea for your dust problem that mightve been a little simpler. Those hinges should have a few mm of adjustment in both direction. So if you spaced the door off of the box a little bit it would allow air to be sucked in around the entire perimeter of the door. Might eliminate the whistle, and should help to grab any dust that gets stuck on the bottom and corners of the box. Kind of moot now that you fixed it but who knows someone might see this comment and find it useful
Shrimp... preferably Pad Thai Shrimp. Awesome video. My only recommendation would be to place the dust hole at bottom of box or from the inside have placed it at 45 degrees between back panel and bottom panel. You would end up with a significant amount of air movement and therefore dust going downwards instead of sideways. Gravity helps, but it's also the way air / dust moves when getting into the box and the turbulence caused by the air already inside the box.
Shrimp. I had the same issue after building my custom enclosure. My fix... since you probably need/want a hose to your fence to collect dust as well, pipe it to a 2.5" port 90 degrees from the back main 4" hose connection. It provides the extra airflow and it helps "spin" the air in the box to keep it more cleared... and you get the benefit of dust collection on the fence at the bit location.
Looking at how close the bottom of the box is to the router, I do have concerns about adequate router cooling. Also, all that dust at the bottom will have a tendency to get inside of a motor, causing potential problems. TBH, I'd relocate the dust collection intake to the bottom of the box, rather then having it on the side. This way you will have the air flowing around the router, helping to cool it. And the the dust won't build up in the bottom as much
Shrimp It is not just the air flow for cooling but also the dust in the air will get into the router and reduce the life of the router. It is better to have an outside source of cooling air for the router.
shrimp - theres 2 things i want to suggest... 1) change the angle suction hole to make a cyclone inside the box... 2) put another hole which connect with the router grill to separate with the dust inside the box so your router will get the clean air from the outside of the box...
Shrimp are icky but I love this and the table upgrade videos! I am grateful that you included the challenges in the corners of the box so now I have ideas on how I want to build mine. Great job!
@@SpencleyDesignCoshrimp. So, if you want to have the box cleaner without dust collecting on the corners and under the motor, I suggest you drill some small holes in the bottom of the door near the floor of the box. Maybe even drill them on a downward 45 degree angle. It will pull air through those holes and essentially sweep the bottom of the box clean as it runs. It will increase the air speed from front to back along the bottom of the box and not just from the central hole to the back.
Shrimp. With all of the advice on how to say "caulk" I forgot what I wanted to say. I have been thinking about getting rid of my router table for years. Adding an extension to my table saw is a fantastic resolution to the problem. Thank you very much for the help. Wolf in Kingston.
Nice idea. I think I would have opted to make it a drawer so any left over dust can easily be cleaned by just pulling out the drawer and empty it over a dustbin.
Shrimp, this is an excellent companion video to the router table/table saw extension video (which I just watched). I know what I'll be working on during my winter break. Thanks for the great content.
I was impressed that you picked up how the SHRIMPy hole in the throat plate would restrict airflow, and would have done the exact same thing with chamfer plates myself under my "cheating table saw made from an old circular saw" that I used to have, but instead of a rear entry for the extractor hose, just made the floor of the box where i put the fitting, and made that removable for accessing the saw for adjustments / blade changes. Dust accumulation problems were pretty much eliminated.
Shrimp: should we have any concerns about the router motor itself getting clogged up through its vent ports now that the entire thing is encased in a box. I'm also thinking about fire hazard from the motor brushes igniting fine dust particles that are then sucked out into the extraction bin. Any thoughts? I do enjoy the homemade tool adaptions for the workshop videos. Good job. 👍
I really think if that were a major concern then companies like Rockler and Sawstop wouldn't make the metal boxes and router manufacturers would recommend not using their routers with router tables. Even without a dust box the router will pull in some of the fine dust. I usually use compressed air and blow out the motor after heavy use.
Shrimp. I like your router dust collection box except for one concern. The router motor obviously draws air for cooling ventilation. The motor is a universal ac/dc motor, so it has a commutator with carbon brushes. Carbon brushes require clean cooling air to provide the best performance and longevity. I am also puzzled as the air which is vented from the motor clashes with the air being drawn down through the table via the insert ring. Appreciate your comments as I, like you, wish to improve my router table dust collection without damaging my router motor.
Shrimp. As far as the air flow. Think of a fireplace. Area of the inlet needs to equal the exit flue to have maximum flow. Nice job, I need make this build now
After I built mine, I modified it. I put a separate hole in the box with a pipe coming from the back of the 'router cooling air intake' to feed it clean cold air.. this does make the vacuum less effective. But the dust extractor pulls enough th make up for the air been pulled in by the router. I also have a Y split to the fence extraction point, which can be turned off when not in use
Nice video, I hope you didn't fill your router up with dust while checking the vac. I might have the router running during the test next time. The air running through the router helps keep it clear of dust. Hopefully
As someone who has devised and built a few air intake and exhaust systems for automotive applications,generally these being far more critical than dust extraction but the same rules apply. It's worth remembering that any surface perpendicular to the air travel will create turbulence, hollows,dead air etc. hence the dust in the corners and the swirling to create it. This is especially so with box shapes and even more so at the wall that the extraction pipe is fitted too,square and corners are not things that lend well to air movement and the relatively small hole on a large flat surface in a box under vacuum conditions creates a bottleneck,the majority of the air movement will be a core centre column of air,the outside of which will be slowed, dispersed by and then replace some of the 'stale' turbulent air in the box's extremities, all of which removes energy from the air and reduces its ability to remove the particles.The better solution would be to make the box narrower at the extraction end to create a far superior air flow,reduce turbulent areas and increase extraction markedly,ideally the wall that the extraction pipe is on should be as near dimensionally as a possible to the diameter of the extraction pipe,like a funnel,it will probably be quieter too. The small amount of dust that will build in the corners where the square becomes round at the pipe will actually aid air flow by removing some of the corners harshness.A slow gradual interjection is manageable at that sort of velocity but when air is deflected by right angles etc. even at relatively low velocity,pressure variations,poor efficiency, turbulence, swirling and deposits is the only outcome.
Shrimp Absolutely loved this, the music, camera *work, and voice over just makes the perfect video to throw on and relax to. You are now definitely on list of woodworking youtubers I throw on for a bit of free mental space. Love the work and look forward to the future vids! Much love ❤️ *edit
SHRIMP, I just found your channel and love what you are doing. I have been a residential remodeling contractor for over 30 years and am now starting to become a more dedicated woodworker. I have throughly enjoyed the few videos I have seen so far. You have great instincts and look forward to watching more. I also took the time to read comments and found many to be insightful when I construct my router dust collection box. Thank you for your efforts and all the time others spent adding ideas to the project.
Shrimp are some of my favorite crustaceans, but they don't hold a candle to your channel, Spencley Design! As a person newly acquainted with all things woodworking, you've quickly become one of my favorite content creators. And kit all comes down to one word: Cauk! jk, it's really frugality :D
Shrimp! I saw a great pro-tip on another channel. I cut a 4" hole in the bottom of the router box and installed hose from the router's intake to fresh air outside the box. Like you, I don't have data to back this up but it makes sense to have the router breathing in fresh air. Thanks for your videos.
I did a router box 6 years ago. Before you could buy one and made it out of 1/4" Plywood gluing and nailing it then sealing the edges with calk, its under a router lift But I didnt put a door on it yet. Becuse I use a multi speed router ive got to pick it up out of the table to set the speed. Its permently turned on, but ive added a remote switch and an outlet inside the box as well a dust collection port. It works very good. With just a dust deputy and vacume.
I built my router lift into an old wood teacher's desk. I also have a router fence system on it. I modified the desk file drawer as a dust collection box with an extesible 4" dust port for my shop dust collector. I also use router lift plate inserts that allow suction down draft around the router bit.
Hi Shrimp. To help of the bottom of the box and also give more air to your saw dust collection unit. I would’ve drilled about three or four three-quarter inch holes at the base where your door is so that it sweeps across the bottom and to the dust collection hose rather than gapping it. Anyway. That was just an idea. Cheers
I made a boxed router fence and connected the dust collector hose to it. I really haven't had the need for adjustable wings on the fence. It collects a majority of the dust, but would consider a box underneath also. A sloped bottom on the box with the port near the bottom of the slope would be best, but probably unnecessary.
Shrimp. Like you I did something simliar on my tablesaw for my router table. I ended up adding a few holes near the bottom far edge from my dust collection intake. Massive improvement in the router box for dust in the corners.
Shrimp that want their routers to last a long time would make that box "taller" (moving the hose port down as well) so the vents of the motor housing aren't restricted by the box and eventually blocked by the accumulated dust. Personally I'd drop it at least 6". This one looks like it's starving the motor even with zero dust. Still a great solution for keeping a clean shop, thank you for sharing it! Just because your router doesn't start a fire doesn't mean it's not getting hot and shortening its life. Electric motors lose performance and eventually are ruined when heat breaks down the enamel on the wire windings. The heat inside the windings is MUCH higher than the hot air being blown out of the router housing -- what you feel is much cooler than what the motor feels. It is also conducted though the spindle to the bearings, impacting them as well. If you want your tool to last forever, give it plenty of air. It's a gradual process so you don't notice until you buy a new router which feels dramatically more powerful than the old one...but only because you're comparing new vs. prematurely-worn. Of course the manufacturers don't mind this at all, they sell more tools...
In my shop I have a cyclone vac top on a 55 gal drum. I can turn it on and I have ball valves set up to open suction to different tools around the shop. It works well to cover my row of miter saws, band saw, table saw, and router table. I haven't figured out how I want to do a lathe vac system, but I figure a large channel will work.
To keep your router box clear of chips, just cut a 1/2 inch strip off of the bottom of your door. That will create a channel of air that sweeps the bottom of the box.
you don’t need to make the box airtight if you use a dust collector. Dust collectors have high CFM but low pressure, so you want to ensure there is enough paths for air volume, otherwise static pressure will build up and the dust collecting will be inefficient
You have a 4" dust hose, you need a comparable amount of air infiltration to avoid the vacuum sounds. Dust collectors need air flow to do their job, unlike a dust vac which can tolerate more restriction. So instead of opening the gap on your door to let that extra air in, what I have done on my router table is to drill 1" holes on each corner of the door at the bottom. This allows the extra air coming in to also prevent dust buildup in the corners, so you don't need baffles either. You'll always get some buildup, but it equalizes itself and with the holes at the base of the door, you won't get it falling out when you open the door.
A shrimple, yet effective solution. I'm shrimpifically appreciative of the relocated switch. As a tall guy, it sucks when all the switches are under the shrimping bench.
"SHRIMP" Yep, not only did I watch the whole presentation, I saved it in my "projects" folder too! Yhis is a definite MUST DO for my shop. Thanks for sharing.... 👍
Shrimp, I added a ~3" hose (shop Vac size) from the side of the box up to a fitting in the fence at the cutter (traditional place for collection). So there are 2 potential paths for the air - down the router hole into the box, and from the fence into the box. Much higher air flow, which also helped clear the box.
Shrimp, thanks this is wat I needed to enhance the flow in my small Proxxon sawtable. My dust collection removes excess dust but it builds up in the corners, this could be it to lead it to the exhaust hole.
Shrimp-ossibly cool! I love dust reducing hacks like that. Since i was a kid, whenver my dad cuts or drills things, he made me vacuum right at the source so we had less cleaning afterwards.
Shrimp Are you experiencing any issues with overheating of the router motor? Consider adding just a few small holes (6 x 1/8" or 6x 1/4") drilled into the bottom of the box right below the center of the motor. Or, maybe 1 x 1" hole with a screen over it? This will pull fresh air into the box and assist with flushing out the accumulated wood dust that we saw under the router. And that air flow will cool the router motor.
By increasing the gap in the door actually decreases relative suction. When you allow more air in you increase pressure of the container which wants to expand out of the box. By decreasing the amount of leaks in the box you create a stronger vacuum or lower pressure regain allowing for greater suction. That being said by placing the little wedges in you decrease the total amount of air that can occupy the space at atmospheric pressure which means the vacuum doesn’t need to work as hard to get the pressure down and you decrease turbulent air allowing for better airflow and an increase in efficiency of the vacuum. If you put larger wedges into the box you may be able to squeak out more performance at the cost of total volume for dust in the box.
Shrimp...Great video, I have a craftsman benchtop router table and would like to build a box similar to this around the bottom for dust consolidation! Great idea!
I love these DIY Workshops Maschines, especially this " Table saw" type and this "router table" model!! To make some stuff at home, and to craft some stuff. In Germany, we use this kind of Maschines only at the building sites, but the Festtool version. For the smaller circular table saw, or the table for the Festo router with all kinds of rail systems. But, in our " real" carpentery business work shop, where I worked as employee, we had a totally different Maschinery!!!! Altendorf or Martin : Table Saw, Kölle or Martin : Stationary table router, and the other big Maschines you need to produce with profit. Edge Gluer, Horizontal CNC circular plate saw, CNC work center, cylindrical sanding Maschine, bla bla🙈🙈🙈🙈😁😁😁‼️
SHRIMP. How is the router head getting fresh air to cool itself? The router pulls air thru the head to cool the armature. Now the intake of the router head is facing the box bottom where dust piles up, so It's sucking on a dust pile. Prevent the router from running hot or burning out. Layout a hole on the box bottom directly in line with the routers center. Attach a hose or tube on to the router head. Have it long enough to pass thru the hole and beyond several inches so that as the router is raised the head is still receiving fresh air from outside of the box.
Shrimp. I like the dust collection box very much. The only thing I would have made differently is, instead of a slot along the door for air, I would have made a series of inline holes at the bottom where the dust was collecting to wisp away the dust from that area.
Shrimp. I have been down this road so many times from several router table designs to the extension on my Saw Stop table saw. Here is the problem with boxes. The enclosed router is just eating all that dust trough it’s powerful cooling system. Your basically rerouting dust through the routers guts increasing wear, tear and defeating the cooling efficiency of the router. It also clogs up the routers intake screen, on off switch and insides. Not only that the two systems are at war. The router wants to pump air upward through its cooling fan while your trying to force the same air in the opposite direction. I have tried various schemes including shrouding the router with a tube up through the bottom of the box that Channels fresh air to the routers intake screen. Problem with that is it must move up and down with the router. IMO your better off with a open dust port under the table. But your best point of dust collection is in the fence system cause most of your routing is going to generate dust above the table unless your routing a channel in which case it’s going to shoot dust in a stream out the end of the channel and across the table on to the floor. Now you going to need two dust ports. One at fence and one below. You can get a splitter but my experience is that a 50% reduction in draft results for both ports rendering them both ineffective. For the best results I recommend you put your dust collection at the fence. Use a dust extractor or vacuum, not your dust collection system since your probably only gong to have a 2” port on the fence anyway so you’ll get better air flow with the vac.
I made mine from a cheap plastic tote from walmart. I held it over my fire pit with a bowling ball in it to form the bottom. Then I mounted magnets in the lip of the top, cut my dust & cord holes. Cost about 15 bucks all together & took about 30 mins.
As a mechanical engineer, my main question is, why not skipp the box entirely and make a dust collecting ring below the table, still having access to the moving parts. (I dont work with routers so, maybe there are reasons a box is better. Its definetly easier than doing round stuff. :D )
Shrimp!!! Ive been trying to decide how to do something like this for ages and not being a 'proficient' diy'er, the ideas I had were complex and not ideal. This is so simple, thanks for simplifying life for me!!
Shrimp. Goodvideo. Leaving the black caulk out would increase air flow , which is required to move lots of air and dust. Your object should be to increase air through box, not limit it. Holes on door side bottom would likely evacuate your box well. Add a couple at time… may increase noise of router rotation. Good job. I will build one now. I love my Kreg joint jigs.
He needs a convergence/divergence section so the pressure drops and the velocity increases. He doesn't want bleed air across the system to rob him of atm pressure.
Shrimp.... well, good additions with 45 degree corner brackets, but one more issue is that now saw dust may be sucked up into the router causing heat and premature failure. Perhaps attaching a 4" (=/-) flex hose to the bottom of the router AND then a 4" (=/-) hole in bottom of box with flex hose going through it. (of course, seal the seam of hose and box). This would give fresh clean air to the router and still allow for everything else to work!
Shrimp. In your door, drill a couple of 1" diameter doors to allow air to sweep across the bottom of the box. Your airflow is greatly reduced by having the main path be through the throat plate. When I built my router table years ago I incorporated a similar dust box with sloped sides. The key element to mine working so well is I have an opening 12" wide by 1" tall at the floor of the box so I get an air sweep. I only have an old 350 cfm collector hooked up to this and I get almost no dust escaping on the table when using my vented fence in conjunction with the box.
Angle the base and dust will gravitate to the lowest side. If you have compressed air available angle a pipe to the low side and occassionally give a blast of air while dust collector is running.
Shrimp...cool idea and a couple of thoughts. First is how you're testing - it's not real world because youre not considering that the router bit will be running (above) the table plane and spewing dust everywhere. You should retest with that in mind. Second thought: punching holes in the throat plate for more air flow which'll have the benefit of more dust capturing and router cooling. Now, question: my router table is cast iron so i cant drill a box into it. What would you suggest, embedding high strength magnets along the top edge of the wooden box?
SHRIMP. Air won’t leak out of the box through any gaps because you have a huge amount of suction from your DC. Instead, gaps will cause air to leak into the box. I suggest that you drill some holes at the very bottom of the door. Air will be sucked in through them, “sweep” across the floor of the box and take the dust with it down the DC hose. I’ve employed this technique successfully with my router and my cabinet table saw.
Love shrimp video. I have idea to add to it. Set the hose at the gotten of the dust collector box. That what I plan to do. When I decided to build mine. Thank you for the idea.
Bottom not gotten I missed spelled that. My auto correct and phone thinking for me. And some time choose the next word for me. Can really confuse ppl at time. plus my phone enjoys making me look and sound dumb at times, 😂😂😂😂😂😂 have to love technology
shrimp - My first concern is regarding the vacuum (or air flow), of the dust collection. Too much air restriction has a tendency to put too much strain on the main blower.. For instance, you have a 4" hose but under to extreme case with the throat plate on the aperture to allow tha air to flow to the 4" hose is around 1 1/2" ~ 2", there by choking the dust collection system. Possible suggestion would be to create an adjustable aperture on the door side of the box to relieve the choking effect and allow for ventilation cooling for the router.
Shrimp. Love this idea. I have a couple thoughts though. 1. That’s way too many screws. 2. I wouldn’t be able to swing a wrench on my collet with that box in place. I’d rig up a cleat underneath to hang one edge of the box then install 2 toggle latches to quickly attach and detach the box to completely remove the box.
Shrimp: I know this is old, but, put a small hole in the bottom center of the door, right in-between the two hinges, at the same level as the gap between the bottom of the router and the bottom of the box. That way some air will be pulled in that hole, directly in the path of where the dust is collecting underneath the router, and will keep it from collecting there.
6:20 LOL Funny story. A older guy I used to work with in a custom cabinet shop said he was working on something one time that was giving him a fit. He fought it for about 10-15 mins when finally one of his buddies said, "Hey man, stick your tongue out! You cant expect it to do what you want if your tongue isnt sticking out!!" He thought "what the hell" He stuck his tongue out and in less than 10 seconds, Boom, he got it!! So from that moment on, 40 years building custom cabinets he started sticking his tongue out when he was doing something that required a lot of focus. After he told me that story, I would catch my self looking over at his work table while he was hard at work and sure enough, there he was with that damn tongue sticking out...GETTING. IT. DONE!!!
Shrimp, ok. You could drill a few holes in the door you made and the plate above it. Put a mess on the inside. This will allow the dust collector to pull air from that side pulling the dust from that side toward it. As long as the holes are not to large it won't hurt the dust collection from the router at the top. Of course you could have angle all 4 sides like an upside down pyramid and put the dust collector at the bottom and avoided the issue entirely but that would have take up more room under the table. this would have also taken care of your noise issue. If you are wonder yea I have a lot fluid dynamics under I'm an X US Naval nuclear reactor operator.
One point i think i need to point out, all that dust your pulling into the box some of it gets sucked into the router motor, so your going to need to blow out the motor once and a wile depending how much you use it. This will help it last longer.
Shrimpie. Have you considered using a Solid Flush Ring Pull Handle instead of the "U" handle you have on the door flap? This U shaped handle must restrict access when you have the storage unit beneath the door. You must have to remove your storage unit from under the dust collection box to gain access to the router for any adjustments you want to make to your router.
Clams. That little pile of sawdust accumulating directly underneath your router is suffocating your routers intake air vent. So when you turn your router on it’s going to suck up that little pile and your router is going to get full of sawdust packed in it.
SHRIMP - I have a BBQ Grill/Smoker Damper attached to the side of my Dust Box (Commercial, I was lazy) and I can close it off or open it up to adjust the airflow. I also have a dust port/brush mounted to the side of the saw, that picks up dust from, say a dado, where the dust would normally shoot across the shop floor. I've also seen it done with a hole in the router plate. 😀
Shrimp - This is the kind of project where that brad nailer in your drawer could come in really handy. No messing around with a pocket hole jig and a drill. Just skip that and go straight to the assembly. Run a bead of glue along the edge, butt the two pieces together and fire in a few 1 1/4" brads.
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Shrimp. "60% of the time, it works every time." Ha. Name that movie...
Shrimp. Could you put the vacuum hose connector centered on the bottom of the dust collection box rather than the side so it captures all of the dust? Maybe angle the bottom of the dust box down or even have a rounded funnel like bottom with the vacuum connector in the center of the funnel bottom?
Shrimp. Consider placing a hole with a shutter in the door in line with the speed control. This does 3 things. 1 the additional airflow will keep the speed control area clean from accumulating chips & dust. 2 you can tune the amount of airflow passing thru the cutter bit opening to be as strong as you wish. 3 by increasing airflow the dust collection motor will not have to work harder than necessary (producing a high negative pressure) causing unnecessary wear & power consumption.
And if I am wrong - just close the shutter. Best wishes for success. Rod.
drill small holes at the bottom of the door, so dust will be just blown by incoming air
drill little vent holes where the dust piles up
Shrimple fix for increasing air flow and keeping dust out the corners. Drill small holes in the corners so you can get air flowing across the the bottom of the box. You have more than enough air volume that it won’t make a difference up top. Just needs some intake holes to get it flowing toward the dc port
Thanks for the tip!
Adding to a good idea - Best way to identify where to drill the holes is to note where you have some build up. By drilling the holes at that point you ensure that there is air travelling from that point to the air outlet. This method is particularly effective if your dust extraction system is based on high air volume rather than high air pressure. Based on the size of your outlet I’d say it’s a high air volume flow system ( the best in my view)
YES
I was gonna say the same, lol o shrimp
Was going to comment the same 👍
I think a bigger concern, rather than collecting every bit of the sawdust, you have to take into account cooling your router. It needs air flow around and through the motor. This is particularily important if you're doing a lot of routing. Your vacuum already directs the air flow. so if you cut a 1/2' to 3/4" slot the length of the side opposite your dust port, the evacuation would not suffer. It's not going to depend on the amount of negative air pressure (vacuum) you develop, but rather on the speed and volume of air flow through the box.
Agreed with this. could solve the router cooling, and residual dust collection at the bottom of the box easily, by putting intake vents at the bottom of the door, nearly flush with the bottom of the box. Air will move across the router to help keep it cool, and also sweep across the bottom of the box, helping to keep it clean and minimize dust build up. But ideally the dust port should be flush with the bottom of the box as well so that dust can flow unobstructed into the port.
I bought a really strong computer fan that is mounted directly under my router motor. It turns on with the router.
I was thinking of the same thing, and also we need to consider chances of dust accumulating inside the router because the box sits so close to the router itself. I think that 1) the box can be deeper so dust won't be riding so close to the router when riding along the bottom of the box and 2) have some diverting skirt to encourage dust to flow outside of the router when they fall through the hole. Having intake holes at he right place will also encourage fresh air to flow through the router minimizing dust build up.
I was about to point this flaw out, but it’s good that others noted it.
I don’t know whether the sawdust affects the internals of the router, or how much, but it is an inevitable eventuality that they will be affected, especially the commutator bars and brushes, not to mention the bearings if they are the open type. So perhaps an open port for the router cooling intake at the botttom, coupled with a rubber boot that fits snugly around the router and makes a solid seal for the bottom of the dust collection enclosure would be best, though the router intake may affect the suction power somewhat.
@@cindyhammack68 Is the motor on the computer fan totally enclosed? I wonder if there is any concern with fire on a fan motor that is not meant to be in outrageously dusty environment like a dust collection box beneath a router
Shrimp-ing and saving by designing your own custom upgrades is VERY helpful to teach the rest of us how to invent designs. Thank you!
Shrimp are by far the best at collecting fine particles so you should call this the shrimp box, also you should put the door on top if the fixed panel so any reminisce dust stays inside the box , and a stronger vacuum might help rather than a second hose, because all the air is concentrated into one place, but overall a very cool build
To have your router enclosed in that msnner will definitely restrict the necessary air flow to age motor of your router, as saw dust itself can clog the ports if the motor. A better position would be to have the bottom of the box to surround the upper guide of the plunge router frame. Use some flexible foam between the router frame and box bottom will protect the router frame from the bottom of the new pan. With a smaller volume the lower motor vents( now upwards), should easily be kept from clogging. If the suction noise is a problem, install an adjustable gate on hose port of the dust collection system you can decrease the amount of suction to tune the air flow to an acceptable noise level. Since you seem to be using the dust collection for your table saw, you should consider using a Y connection with hoses for each tool to save time changing between them. This alone may help with the noise level as it can still be pulling air from the table saw.
He is a VERY uneducated amateur. With very limited woodworking skills
There is an immense amount of fresh air being pulled past that router that I doubt there are any concerns with heat degredation by being left inside of a tiny box.
I like your idea of the port for the vacuum on the bottom of the box where the dust naturally collects but that eliminates room for the drawers below.
@@rickkern5785 even in this video, the enclosure limits the height of possible drawers underneath. My suggestion could also be accomplished with “ cant” boards inside the enclosure directed ti a side opening at the bottom. The basic premise it rpto draw dust from the motor air inlets, which if clogged causes the motor to overheat and fail.
Hey Shrimp...I would think a bottom mounted dust hose would capture almost 100% of the dust but in your case it doesn't work because of the cabinet you have there. Either way, it seems a much better solution that letting the sawdust (router dust?) hit the floor.
Lobster. I have another idea for your dust problem that mightve been a little simpler. Those hinges should have a few mm of adjustment in both direction. So if you spaced the door off of the box a little bit it would allow air to be sucked in around the entire perimeter of the door. Might eliminate the whistle, and should help to grab any dust that gets stuck on the bottom and corners of the box. Kind of moot now that you fixed it but who knows someone might see this comment and find it useful
Great suggestion zac! Thanks man
Save it for the aftershow
Agree. Door gap should help a lot. Suck the shrimp right out of there.
Tongue out and at 6:29 unconsciously flip the bird while intently concentrating. Enjoyed the video, thanks for your time
Shrimp... preferably Pad Thai Shrimp.
Awesome video.
My only recommendation would be to place the dust hole at bottom of box or from the inside have placed it at 45 degrees between back panel and bottom panel. You would end up with a significant amount of air movement and therefore dust going downwards instead of sideways. Gravity helps, but it's also the way air / dust moves when getting into the box and the turbulence caused by the air already inside the box.
Shrimp. I had the same issue after building my custom enclosure. My fix... since you probably need/want a hose to your fence to collect dust as well, pipe it to a 2.5" port 90 degrees from the back main 4" hose connection. It provides the extra airflow and it helps "spin" the air in the box to keep it more cleared... and you get the benefit of dust collection on the fence at the bit location.
Looking at how close the bottom of the box is to the router, I do have concerns about adequate router cooling. Also, all that dust at the bottom will have a tendency to get inside of a motor, causing potential problems. TBH, I'd relocate the dust collection intake to the bottom of the box, rather then having it on the side. This way you will have the air flowing around the router, helping to cool it. And the the dust won't build up in the bottom as much
Won’t the vacuum also help with cooling??
Shrimp It is not just the air flow for cooling but also the dust in the air will get into the router and reduce the life of the router. It is better to have an outside source of cooling air for the router.
shrimp - theres 2 things i want to suggest...
1) change the angle suction hole to make a cyclone inside the box...
2) put another hole which connect with the router grill to separate with the dust inside the box so your router will get the clean air from the outside of the box...
Shrimp are icky but I love this and the table upgrade videos! I am grateful that you included the challenges in the corners of the box so now I have ideas on how I want to build mine. Great job!
Much appreciated!
Shrimp the box is a great addition you are the best of the wood working dude on you tube that's my opinion
@@SpencleyDesignCoshrimp. So, if you want to have the box cleaner without dust collecting on the corners and under the motor, I suggest you drill some small holes in the bottom of the door near the floor of the box. Maybe even drill them on a downward 45 degree angle. It will pull air through those holes and essentially sweep the bottom of the box clean as it runs. It will increase the air speed from front to back along the bottom of the box and not just from the central hole to the back.
Shrimp. With all of the advice on how to say "caulk" I forgot what I wanted to say. I have been thinking about getting rid of my router table for years. Adding an extension to my table saw is a fantastic resolution to the problem. Thank you very much for the help. Wolf in Kingston.
Nice idea. I think I would have opted to make it a drawer so any left over dust can easily be cleaned by just pulling out the drawer and empty it over a dustbin.
7:49 "No-one's ever gonna see this".
I think it's one of the most viewed wooden dust collection boxes on youtube 😁
Shrimp, this is an excellent companion video to the router table/table saw extension video (which I just watched). I know what I'll be working on during my winter break. Thanks for the great content.
I was impressed that you picked up how the SHRIMPy hole in the throat plate would restrict airflow, and would have done the exact same thing with chamfer plates myself under my "cheating table saw made from an old circular saw" that I used to have, but instead of a rear entry for the extractor hose, just made the floor of the box where i put the fitting, and made that removable for accessing the saw for adjustments / blade changes. Dust accumulation problems were pretty much eliminated.
Shrimp: should we have any concerns about the router motor itself getting clogged up through its vent ports now that the entire thing is encased in a box.
I'm also thinking about fire hazard from the motor brushes igniting fine dust particles that are then sucked out into the extraction bin.
Any thoughts?
I do enjoy the homemade tool adaptions for the workshop videos. Good job. 👍
I really think if that were a major concern then companies like Rockler and Sawstop wouldn't make the metal boxes and router manufacturers would recommend not using their routers with router tables. Even without a dust box the router will pull in some of the fine dust. I usually use compressed air and blow out the motor after heavy use.
Shrimp. I like your router dust collection box except for one concern. The router motor obviously draws air for cooling ventilation. The motor is a universal ac/dc motor, so it has a commutator with carbon brushes. Carbon brushes require clean cooling air to provide the best performance and longevity. I am also puzzled as the air which is vented from the motor clashes with the air being drawn down through the table via the insert ring. Appreciate your comments as I, like you, wish to improve my router table dust collection without damaging my router motor.
Shrimp. As far as the air flow. Think of a fireplace. Area of the inlet needs to equal the exit flue to have maximum flow. Nice job, I need make this build now
Good luck with the build!
After I built mine, I modified it. I put a separate hole in the box with a pipe coming from the back of the 'router cooling air intake' to feed it clean cold air.. this does make the vacuum less effective. But the dust extractor pulls enough th make up for the air been pulled in by the router. I also have a Y split to the fence extraction point, which can be turned off when not in use
Nice video, I hope you didn't fill your router up with dust while checking the vac. I might have the router running during the test next time. The air running through the router helps keep it clear of dust. Hopefully
As someone who has devised and built a few air intake and exhaust systems for automotive applications,generally these being far more critical than dust extraction but the same rules apply. It's worth remembering that any surface perpendicular to the air travel will create turbulence, hollows,dead air etc. hence the dust in the corners and the swirling to create it. This is especially so with box shapes and even more so at the wall that the extraction pipe is fitted too,square and corners are not things that lend well to air movement and the relatively small hole on a large flat surface in a box under vacuum conditions creates a bottleneck,the majority of the air movement will be a core centre column of air,the outside of which will be slowed, dispersed by and then replace some of the 'stale' turbulent air in the box's extremities, all of which removes energy from the air and reduces its ability to remove the particles.The better solution would be to make the box narrower at the extraction end to create a far superior air flow,reduce turbulent areas and increase extraction markedly,ideally the wall that the extraction pipe is on should be as near dimensionally as a possible to the diameter of the extraction pipe,like a funnel,it will probably be quieter too. The small amount of dust that will build in the corners where the square becomes round at the pipe will actually aid air flow by removing some of the corners harshness.A slow gradual interjection is manageable at that sort of velocity but when air is deflected by right angles etc. even at relatively low velocity,pressure variations,poor efficiency, turbulence, swirling and deposits is the only outcome.
Shrimp Absolutely loved this, the music, camera *work, and voice over just makes the perfect video to throw on and relax to. You are now definitely on list of woodworking youtubers I throw on for a bit of free mental space. Love the work and look forward to the future vids! Much love ❤️
*edit
SHRIMP, I just found your channel and love what you are doing. I have been a residential remodeling contractor for over 30 years and am now starting to become a more dedicated woodworker. I have throughly enjoyed the few videos I have seen so far. You have great instincts and look forward to watching more. I also took the time to read comments and found many to be insightful when I construct my router dust collection box. Thank you for your efforts and all the time others spent adding ideas to the project.
Shrimp are some of my favorite crustaceans, but they don't hold a candle to your channel, Spencley Design! As a person newly acquainted with all things woodworking, you've quickly become one of my favorite content creators. And kit all comes down to one word: Cauk! jk, it's really frugality :D
Shrimp! I saw a great pro-tip on another channel. I cut a 4" hole in the bottom of the router box and installed hose from the router's intake to fresh air outside the box. Like you, I don't have data to back this up but it makes sense to have the router breathing in fresh air. Thanks for your videos.
I did a router box 6 years ago. Before you could buy one and made it out of 1/4"
Plywood gluing and nailing it then sealing the edges with calk, its under a router lift
But I didnt put a door on it yet. Becuse I use a multi speed router ive got to pick it up out of the table to set the speed.
Its permently turned on, but ive added a remote switch and an outlet inside the box as well a dust collection port.
It works very good. With just a dust deputy and vacume.
This is "Shrimply" the best idea. I need to build some "catch boxes" in my shop.
I built my router lift into an old wood teacher's desk. I also have a router fence system on it. I modified the desk file drawer as a dust collection box with an extesible 4" dust port for my shop dust collector. I also use router lift plate inserts that allow suction down draft around the router bit.
Shrimp... No one will see the inside of the box, but you will know, you will know... :D Thanks for sharing your work.
Thank you for watching 😀
Hi Shrimp.
To help of the bottom of the box and also give more air to your saw dust collection unit. I would’ve drilled about three or four three-quarter inch holes at the base where your door is so that it sweeps across the bottom and to the dust collection hose rather than gapping it. Anyway. That was just an idea. Cheers
I made a boxed router fence and connected the dust collector hose to it. I really haven't had the need for adjustable wings on the fence. It collects a majority of the dust, but would consider a box underneath also. A sloped bottom on the box with the port near the bottom of the slope would be best, but probably unnecessary.
I bet you could drill 2 holes in the bottom left and right of the door and it would blow all the dust into the dust collection system😁
Shrimp.
Like you I did something simliar on my tablesaw for my router table. I ended up adding a few holes near the bottom far edge from my dust collection intake. Massive improvement in the router box for dust in the corners.
Shrimp that want their routers to last a long time would make that box "taller" (moving the hose port down as well) so the vents of the motor housing aren't restricted by the box and eventually blocked by the accumulated dust. Personally I'd drop it at least 6". This one looks like it's starving the motor even with zero dust.
Still a great solution for keeping a clean shop, thank you for sharing it!
Just because your router doesn't start a fire doesn't mean it's not getting hot and shortening its life. Electric motors lose performance and eventually are ruined when heat breaks down the enamel on the wire windings. The heat inside the windings is MUCH higher than the hot air being blown out of the router housing -- what you feel is much cooler than what the motor feels. It is also conducted though the spindle to the bearings, impacting them as well. If you want your tool to last forever, give it plenty of air. It's a gradual process so you don't notice until you buy a new router which feels dramatically more powerful than the old one...but only because you're comparing new vs. prematurely-worn. Of course the manufacturers don't mind this at all, they sell more tools...
In my shop I have a cyclone vac top on a 55 gal drum. I can turn it on and I have ball valves set up to open suction to different tools around the shop. It works well to cover my row of miter saws, band saw, table saw, and router table. I haven't figured out how I want to do a lathe vac system, but I figure a large channel will work.
To keep your router box clear of chips, just cut a 1/2 inch strip off of the bottom of your door. That will create a channel of air that sweeps the bottom of the box.
you don’t need to make the box airtight if you use a dust collector. Dust collectors have high CFM but low pressure, so you want to ensure there is enough paths for air volume, otherwise static pressure will build up and the dust collecting will be inefficient
Shrimp, the collection port on the bottom would have been a excellent location with a straight pass thru to hose.. excellent build once again.
You have a 4" dust hose, you need a comparable amount of air infiltration to avoid the vacuum sounds. Dust collectors need air flow to do their job, unlike a dust vac which can tolerate more restriction. So instead of opening the gap on your door to let that extra air in, what I have done on my router table is to drill 1" holes on each corner of the door at the bottom. This allows the extra air coming in to also prevent dust buildup in the corners, so you don't need baffles either. You'll always get some buildup, but it equalizes itself and with the holes at the base of the door, you won't get it falling out when you open the door.
Lack of shrimp
A shrimple, yet effective solution. I'm shrimpifically appreciative of the relocated switch. As a tall guy, it sucks when all the switches are under the shrimping bench.
I’m schrimply happy that i found this video! Just saw it in my feed and decided to watch it! Way more interesting than trying to sleep!
"SHRIMP" Yep, not only did I watch the whole presentation, I saved it in my "projects" folder too!
Yhis is a definite MUST DO for my shop. Thanks for sharing.... 👍
"I had some scrap plywood lying around" Ah, the good old days....
Shrimp, I added a ~3" hose (shop Vac size) from the side of the box up to a fitting in the fence at the cutter (traditional place for collection). So there are 2 potential paths for the air - down the router hole into the box, and from the fence into the box. Much higher air flow, which also helped clear the box.
router motor is gonna love its new feeder and the yammy dust in it.
Shrimp, thanks this is wat I needed to enhance the flow in my small Proxxon sawtable. My dust collection removes excess dust but it builds up in the corners, this could be it to lead it to the exhaust hole.
Shrimp-ossibly cool! I love dust reducing hacks like that. Since i was a kid, whenver my dad cuts or drills things, he made me vacuum right at the source so we had less cleaning afterwards.
Shrimp
Are you experiencing any issues with overheating of the router motor?
Consider adding just a few small holes (6 x 1/8" or 6x 1/4") drilled into the bottom of the box right below the center of the motor. Or, maybe 1 x 1" hole with a screen over it? This will pull fresh air into the box and assist with flushing out the accumulated wood dust that we saw under the router. And that air flow will cool the router motor.
Shrimp! You are indeed the overkill king! 😂
Shrimp code word is absolutely hilarious!! Love your content!
By increasing the gap in the door actually decreases relative suction. When you allow more air in you increase pressure of the container which wants to expand out of the box. By decreasing the amount of leaks in the box you create a stronger vacuum or lower pressure regain allowing for greater suction. That being said by placing the little wedges in you decrease the total amount of air that can occupy the space at atmospheric pressure which means the vacuum doesn’t need to work as hard to get the pressure down and you decrease turbulent air allowing for better airflow and an increase in efficiency of the vacuum. If you put larger wedges into the box you may be able to squeak out more performance at the cost of total volume for dust in the box.
Shrimp...Great video, I have a craftsman benchtop router table and would like to build a box similar to this around the bottom for dust consolidation! Great idea!
Shrimp: I wonder if using a shop vac would remotely work for a box like this? It’s all I have for dust collection.
Put vents on the bottom of the door to make a carpet of air along the bottom
I love these DIY Workshops Maschines, especially this " Table saw" type and this "router table" model!! To make some stuff at home, and to craft some stuff.
In Germany, we use this kind of Maschines only at the building sites, but the Festtool version. For the smaller circular table saw, or the table for the Festo router with all kinds of rail systems.
But, in our " real" carpentery business work shop, where I worked as employee, we had a totally different Maschinery!!!!
Altendorf or Martin : Table Saw, Kölle or Martin : Stationary table router, and the other big Maschines you need to produce with profit. Edge Gluer, Horizontal CNC circular plate saw, CNC work center, cylindrical sanding Maschine, bla bla🙈🙈🙈🙈😁😁😁‼️
Shrimp was part of my dinner actually. my wife made an awesome soup. and i bet the dust collection would have enjoyed it too!
SHRIMP. How is the router head getting fresh air to cool itself?
The router pulls air thru the head to cool the armature. Now the intake of the router head is facing the box bottom where dust piles up, so It's sucking on a dust pile. Prevent the router from running hot or burning out. Layout a hole on the box bottom directly in line with the routers center. Attach a hose or tube on to the router head. Have it long enough to pass thru the hole and beyond several inches so that as the router is raised the head is still receiving fresh air from outside of the box.
Shrimp. I like the dust collection box very much. The only thing I would have made differently is, instead of a slot along the door for air, I would have made a series of inline holes at the bottom where the dust was collecting to wisp away the dust from that area.
Shrimp. I have been down this road so many times from several router table designs to the extension on my Saw Stop table saw. Here is the problem with boxes. The enclosed router is just eating all that dust trough it’s powerful cooling system. Your basically rerouting dust through the routers guts increasing wear, tear and defeating the cooling efficiency of the router. It also clogs up the routers intake screen, on off switch and insides. Not only that the two systems are at war. The router wants to pump air upward through its cooling fan while your trying to force the same air in the opposite direction. I have tried various schemes including shrouding the router with a tube up through the bottom of the box that Channels fresh air to the routers intake screen. Problem with that is it must move up and down with the router. IMO your better off with a open dust port under the table. But your best point of dust collection is in the fence system cause most of your routing is going to generate dust above the table unless your routing a channel in which case it’s going to shoot dust in a stream out the end of the channel and across the table on to the floor. Now you going to need two dust ports. One at fence and one below. You can get a splitter but my experience is that a 50% reduction in draft results for both ports rendering them both ineffective. For the best results I recommend you put your dust collection at the fence. Use a dust extractor or vacuum, not your dust collection system since your probably only gong to have a 2” port on the fence anyway so you’ll get better air flow with the vac.
I made mine from a cheap plastic tote from walmart. I held it over my fire pit with a bowling ball in it to form the bottom. Then I mounted magnets in the lip of the top, cut my dust & cord holes. Cost about 15 bucks all together & took about 30 mins.
shrimp. Dont have a router table yet but that doesn't stop me from watching way too many videos on shop tools and dust collection!!
As a mechanical engineer, my main question is, why not skipp the box entirely and make a dust collecting ring below the table, still having access to the moving parts. (I dont work with routers so, maybe there are reasons a box is better. Its definetly easier than doing round stuff. :D )
Shrimp!!! Ive been trying to decide how to do something like this for ages and not being a 'proficient' diy'er, the ideas I had were complex and not ideal.
This is so simple, thanks for simplifying life for me!!
Maybe making a dust deflector at the top (a transparent fence that does not let particles fly away) will help, without adding another hose.
Shrimp. Goodvideo. Leaving the black caulk out would increase air flow , which is required to move lots of air and dust. Your object should be to increase air through box, not limit it. Holes on door side bottom would likely evacuate your box well. Add a couple at time… may increase noise of router rotation. Good job. I will build one now. I love my Kreg joint jigs.
He needs a convergence/divergence section so the pressure drops and the velocity increases. He doesn't want bleed air across the system to rob him of atm pressure.
Drill 1" holes at the bottom of the door. It will give it a wind tunnel effect and take the bottom dust away.
Shrimp don't work as well for dust collection as a few 3/8" holes in your table top. Then you can just sweep the remaining dust into the bin easily.
Shrimp.... well, good additions with 45 degree corner brackets, but one more issue is that now saw dust may be sucked up into the router causing heat and premature failure. Perhaps attaching a 4" (=/-) flex hose to the bottom of the router AND then a 4" (=/-) hole in bottom of box with flex hose going through it. (of course, seal the seam of hose and box). This would give fresh clean air to the router and still allow for everything else to work!
Shrimp. In your door, drill a couple of 1" diameter doors to allow air to sweep across the bottom of the box. Your airflow is greatly reduced by having the main path be through the throat plate. When I built my router table years ago I incorporated a similar dust box with sloped sides. The key element to mine working so well is I have an opening 12" wide by 1" tall at the floor of the box so I get an air sweep. I only have an old 350 cfm collector hooked up to this and I get almost no dust escaping on the table when using my vented fence in conjunction with the box.
Angle the base and dust will gravitate to the lowest side. If you have compressed air available angle a pipe to the low side and occassionally give a blast of air while dust collector is running.
Shrimp...cool idea and a couple of thoughts. First is how you're testing - it's not real world because youre not considering that the router bit will be running (above) the table plane and spewing dust everywhere. You should retest with that in mind. Second thought: punching holes in the throat plate for more air flow which'll have the benefit of more dust capturing and router cooling.
Now, question: my router table is cast iron so i cant drill a box into it. What would you suggest, embedding high strength magnets along the top edge of the wooden box?
SHRIMP.
Air won’t leak out of the box through any gaps because you have a huge amount of suction from your DC. Instead, gaps will cause air to leak into the box. I suggest that you drill some holes at the very bottom of the door. Air will be sucked in through them, “sweep” across the floor of the box and take the dust with it down the DC hose. I’ve employed this technique successfully with my router and my cabinet table saw.
Love shrimp video. I have idea to add to it. Set the hose at the gotten of the dust collector box. That what I plan to do. When I decided to build mine. Thank you for the idea.
Bottom not gotten I missed spelled that. My auto correct and phone thinking for me. And some time choose the next word for me. Can really confuse ppl at time. plus my phone enjoys making me look and sound dumb at times, 😂😂😂😂😂😂 have to love technology
shrimp - My first concern is regarding the vacuum (or air flow), of the dust collection. Too much air restriction has a tendency to put too much strain on the main blower.. For instance, you have a 4" hose but under to extreme case with the throat plate on the aperture to allow tha air to flow to the 4" hose is around 1 1/2" ~ 2", there by choking the dust collection system. Possible suggestion would be to create an adjustable aperture on the door side of the box to relieve the choking effect and allow for ventilation cooling for the router.
Shrimp. Love this idea. I have a couple thoughts though.
1. That’s way too many screws.
2. I wouldn’t be able to swing a wrench on my collet with that box in place. I’d rig up a cleat underneath to hang one edge of the box then install 2 toggle latches to quickly attach and detach the box to completely remove the box.
Shrimp: I know this is old, but, put a small hole in the bottom center of the door, right in-between the two hinges, at the same level as the gap between the bottom of the router and the bottom of the box. That way some air will be pulled in that hole, directly in the path of where the dust is collecting underneath the router, and will keep it from collecting there.
shrimp - drilling a number of small holes in your throat plate will help with air flow and also allow more dust to be sucked down more quickly.
Shrimp .. great build that whole project table and dust collection will work for me. thank you for a great idea.
Shrimp, now I have something ELSE to build!
Great video
This is an amazing fix, and it looks like it works very well! Too bad I don't shrimping have many power tools tho.
6:20 LOL Funny story. A older guy I used to work with in a custom cabinet shop said he was working on something one time that was giving him a fit. He fought it for about 10-15 mins when finally one of his buddies said, "Hey man, stick your tongue out! You cant expect it to do what you want if your tongue isnt sticking out!!" He thought "what the hell" He stuck his tongue out and in less than 10 seconds, Boom, he got it!! So from that moment on, 40 years building custom cabinets he started sticking his tongue out when he was doing something that required a lot of focus.
After he told me that story, I would catch my self looking over at his work table while he was hard at work and sure enough, there he was with that damn tongue sticking out...GETTING. IT. DONE!!!
Shrimp, ok.
You could drill a few holes in the door you made and the plate above it. Put a mess on the inside. This will allow the dust collector to pull air from that side pulling the dust from that side toward it. As long as the holes are not to large it won't hurt the dust collection from the router at the top. Of course you could have angle all 4 sides like an upside down pyramid and put the dust collector at the bottom and avoided the issue entirely but that would have take up more room under the table. this would have also taken care of your noise issue. If you are wonder yea I have a lot fluid dynamics under I'm an X US Naval nuclear reactor operator.
Hobbyist woodworker builds plywood box and drills some holes in it. True craftsmanship.
But it is PRECISELY square which the dust particle really appreciate.
appreciate your attitude. too many ppl out there being snooty for no reason.
One point i think i need to point out, all that dust your pulling into the box some of it gets sucked into the router motor, so your going to need to blow out the motor once and a wile depending how much you use it. This will help it last longer.
Shrimpie. Have you considered using a Solid Flush Ring Pull Handle instead of the "U" handle you have on the door flap? This U shaped handle must restrict access when you have the storage unit beneath the door. You must have to remove your storage unit from under the dust collection box to gain access to the router for any adjustments you want to make to your router.
Shrimp -ly brilliant!! Great use of the tight space that you have under the router!!
Clams.
That little pile of sawdust accumulating directly underneath your router is suffocating your routers intake air vent.
So when you turn your router on it’s going to suck up that little pile and your router is going to get full of sawdust packed in it.
Shrimp'in boat with Bubba Gump Shrimpin! Gotta love me a nice guide on tool upgrades!
Shrimp. Which is better for dust collection downdraft or just off to the side of the router. The video was informative and appreciated.
Shrimp. You are the overkill king but I like it because I’m the same way. Love your videos and presentation!
SHRIMP - I have a BBQ Grill/Smoker Damper attached to the side of my Dust Box (Commercial, I was lazy) and I can close it off or open it up to adjust the airflow. I also have a dust port/brush mounted to the side of the saw, that picks up dust from, say a dado, where the dust would normally shoot across the shop floor. I've also seen it done with a hole in the router plate. 😀
Shrimp Collection success!! Thanks for the videos. much appreciated.
Holy crap man, you should get you a decepticon or an autobot sticker for that pocket hole jig.
Shrimp - This is the kind of project where that brad nailer in your drawer could come in really handy. No messing around with a pocket hole jig and a drill. Just skip that and go straight to the assembly. Run a bead of glue along the edge, butt the two pieces together and fire in a few 1 1/4" brads.
Shrimp.... I will start looking into making a router table like how you have done. Great idea.