Tip for anyone using a planer sled: Feed the sled in with the stop in the front, not the rear. The planer wants to pull in the board, so it will push it into the stop rather than pulling it away. Not a huge issue if you use a bunch of glue to keep the board in place, but you can use a whole lot less glue (or none at all) if you push it firmly against the stop before feeding it in.
@@ejd53 never saw that before there are feed rollers that pull the work into the machine and the cutter head spins opposite is the feed rollers! Unless they make portable planers different from industrial ones!
The time it takes to mill timber is honestly the reason I prefer skip planned. Yes more expensive but the thickness you lose from milling and my limited time in the shop really makes the trade-off worth while
Hey Eric! Columbus native here. Not sure where you picked s3s walnut for $15/bdft but you should check out CR lumber out in Xenia, picked up 100 bdft of cherry s3s from them for $7/bdft with delivery. I think I saw walnut at $9/bdft from them too :)
@@inspiringbuilds Sadly I haven't found anything closer unless you're looking for slabs. UrbnTimber on the south side does slabs but not dimensional lumber. Suppose you could cut yourself some XD Most of what I've found locally either doesn't have great selection or is mostly a construction supply
The reason you think a hand plane is slower is because you've rarely, or never used one to flatten lumber. Once you get over the misconception that 'flat' and 'smooth' are the same thing, you can flatten a board with a sharp hand plane in almost the same time it takes to rig up the melamine board thingy (for similar sized pieces). Send the board flat side down through the planer to get the not-flattened side parallel to the flattened side, then flip the board over and use the planer to smooth the previously rough flattened side. Melamine board thingy trick is cool though, especially if you have to keep the boards long and wide.
14:02 do not sticker your boards like this it actually promotes warping. When stickered like this the weight of the boards above are weighing down the unsupported section of the lumber above. Causing bowing.The stickers should always be directly In a vertical line with each other. Like they were early in the video.
By simply adding a LONG straight edge to your table saw you will get a straight edge on one side, then flip it and cut a straight edge on the other and be done in much less time. Metal Square Channel of the length you want and screwed/bolted into your saw fence will keep it in place and straight. Cuts your prep time by 1/3 (don't have to set up router, etc).
To each their own. I don’t have a planer, jointer, or router table yet. In the amount of time it takes to set up most edge jointing power tool methods though, I can have my first few edges jointed with two well tuned and sharp hand planes. Maybe a project with lots of parts would still be faster with power tools even with the setup time, but until I’m ready to size up my hobby to production I’m good with my method. Planing flat faces out of rough cut lumber is no contest with the machines though hands down. I wonder if renting a house with a garage in your area is realistic and “affordable” (what things even are that anymore?) enough for you to upgrade your work space even before you’re ready to go full time into woodworking?
And you don't have to make them perfectly "Rob Cosman" flat off the hand planer. Depending on the board, like if it's thicker, and the drive wheels aren't going ot deflect out any bow, all you need do with the hand planes is get it flat enough to not rock. Take down the high spots, get it good enough to sit on four corners, and you save the mess of hot glue and shims. In my experience, when I didn't clean the hot glue off the wood before running it back through, all the glue gummed up my planer knives. Took forever to clean off. And also, in my experience, the hot glue rips out chunks of the melamine too. Doesn't always peel of clean. Like I said, every case is different. Sometimes it's faster to do some rough flattening with a hand plane, sometimes its faster to go 100% sled. The downside to the hand plane is for it to be faster, you need a 'real' workbench and a good sharpening system. That's a separate investment in equipment and shop square footage. And sometimes it's just fun to fully dimension a board, s4s, with hand tools.
@@barnamadau7857 very true. Power tools require the sufficient dedicated power to keep from tripping breakers, space, and the setup skills to keep them calibrated properly. Through in time and storage space space for jigs, sleds, and auxiliary accessories. Hand tools require sharpening supplies and the learning curve of both use and sharpening. Nothing comes free or 100% easy in this woodworking game. I usually use the hand tools to get stock ready for the power tools I need and have like table or miter saw. It’s good to learn some of both to expand capacity
The vast majority of commercial cabinet shops and furniture shops buy rough lumber the only cabinet shops that buy surfaced lumber are ones that use primarily plywood.. By far the majority of s4s is hobbiest woodworkers. Time is money and experienced woodworkers can process rough sawn boards cheaper and better than a middleman. Plus you have way more control over the boards you use. The problem with premilled boards is you still have to let it acclimated and when you do you have no room to flatten it when it moves. 90% or better of professional woodworkers buy rough sawn. And the vast majority of serious amateurs buy rough sawn. Furniture built from premilled 3/4” material can usually be spotted a mile away. Having said that I do not blame amateurs one bit for using premilled lumber. But using the “time is money” excuse is not accurate
Very much enjoy your videos. Only thing I disagreed with is you said “don’t understand the complex intricacies of the metric system”. The metric system is actually easier but unfamiliar to us. That’s my nitpicking for the day. 😂
I have found I get minimal if none existent snipe when trailing end slightly higher than the leading end when putting it in and then raising the leading edge when coming out.
everything here is spot-on but you left out a first step. those rough-milled boards you bought were cut to length at the mill with a chain saw. you see jagged, angled cuts, sometimes two sloppy cuts merged, and then the mill sprays the end grain with some kind of sealant to reduce moisture migration through the end cut. the spray sealant keeps the boards more or less marketable, but because of the large surface area on the rough cut, it's not very effective. first thing i'm gonna do with those boards is dress the ends with a finishing blade, producing a splinter-free, glass-smooth surface. if you then apply sealant to that you are gonna have a much more stable board because you are forcing moisture to be released slowly and evenly throughout the board rather than fast and unevenly through the ends. this is especially important if you are storing the wood in your shop for long periods, but even if you are using it right away, you may find the milling process to be easier with better board stability as you remove material and expose moister wood underneath
Good stuff, there are amazon sellers that make hot glue guns that work with the other battery platforms that do not havs a got glue gun like dewalt, makita, and Milwaukee.
Snipe usually happens when the piece of wood is too short for thicknesser mechanism and doesn't bridge the distance between the infeed roll and the axle + too steep cutting depth.
Wow, your lumber prices are super low compared to Utah. We basically have one hardwood dealer out here and I priced out some 4/4 White Oak yesterday. They want $12.11 for quarter sawn and $14.31 for rift sawn.
couldn't you speed up the process of getting rid of warp by placing the lumber in a high pressure steam chamber, then taking out and sandwiching between flat metal beams and placing in a low temperature kiln?
🤯when you adjust the height of your router bit. I didn't even know that existed! Also, thanks for all the other info. I knew bits and pieces but this was the most well-structured demo I've seen.
Thank you for the video…memes and all! We just moved into a new house and I’m about to set up my shop. Would you be willing to post a layout of your garage set up?
It’s really not necessary to add all the memes. One person done it long ago and now everybody seems to think that they have to do it to add humor. speaking for myself and I’m sure others, we don’t watch your videos for the humor we watch it for the woodworking tips. Sorry just my own opinion I really get tired of everybody adding memes to everything, it gets ridiculous.
You have to have a little fun slipped into these videos or else it turns into such a drag! After hearing yourself say the same thing for the 25th time in editing you’re looking for anything to lighten up the mood!
I will say thank you for not doing those stupid alternate angles as you talk that all the other woodworkers seem to think is the trend of these days. Talk about something that's run its course.
As someone that has been a woodworker for a very long time ( mid 1980’s) my opinion is just the opposite. As a woodworker he has mediocre skills and knowledge at best. That’s ok. He very often gets things wrong. (For instance the way he has the wood stickered at 13:38 can cause warped boards. It should be stickered with the stickers in a direct vertical line so the weight of all of the upper boards is supported by the stickers. Instead of putting the weight on unsupported sections of the lower boards. With a stack of boards this big the weight on the lower boards can be significant. Then there is his thickness planer sled where the cleat is on the wrong end. The force of the feed rollers pushes the wood forward not back wards.) What he is good at, is making entertaining content. He is a far better content creator than he is a woodworker.
I'm not sure how you saved 34%. You spent hours milling your lumber and probably lost about 34% of your purchase by making wood chips as compared to premilled lumber. While there are definite benefits of milling your own lumber, this video did not really point them out.
@@josekunhardt He stated that it took four hours to mill up the lumber. If it was either full of defects or significantly thicker than he needed, then he would save money by buying dimensioned lumber. I realize that it isn't always easy to find the dimensioned lumber that is ideal for your project, but time is money. If it took four hours to mill lumber then you had to remove a lot of wood to bring it down to the desired dimensions. That waste also costs money.
Blah, blah, blah, blahdah dee, blah... Be quiet & start building us some furniture!! Hoping all is well Bud, Dirty Jersey out!!! Hope while you read this you're chuckling & thinking ahhhh classic Mike G😂🙏
Tip for anyone using a planer sled:
Feed the sled in with the stop in the front, not the rear. The planer wants to pull in the board, so it will push it into the stop rather than pulling it away. Not a huge issue if you use a bunch of glue to keep the board in place, but you can use a whole lot less glue (or none at all) if you push it firmly against the stop before feeding it in.
Beat me to it. I generally just use shims (and maybe a little glue), so the stop in the front is a must. His stop is really not stopping anything.😀😀😀
Thank you Chester. 😃
The cutting head is moving the other way though and with the slippery melamine it would shoot it back !
@@phatphat7089The cutter head pulls the wood through the machine, it doesn't push it.
@@ejd53 never saw that before there are feed rollers that pull the work into the machine and the cutter head spins opposite is the feed rollers! Unless they make portable planers different from industrial ones!
The time it takes to mill timber is honestly the reason I prefer skip planned. Yes more expensive but the thickness you lose from milling and my limited time in the shop really makes the trade-off worth while
What is skip planned?
That was the most informative and fascinating random video selection I've made in a loooooong time! Great video, man!
Hey Eric! Columbus native here. Not sure where you picked s3s walnut for $15/bdft but you should check out CR lumber out in Xenia, picked up 100 bdft of cherry s3s from them for $7/bdft with delivery. I think I saw walnut at $9/bdft from them too :)
That’s a good deal, anything closer to Columbus?
@@inspiringbuilds Sadly I haven't found anything closer unless you're looking for slabs. UrbnTimber on the south side does slabs but not dimensional lumber. Suppose you could cut yourself some XD
Most of what I've found locally either doesn't have great selection or is mostly a construction supply
The reason you think a hand plane is slower is because you've rarely, or never used one to flatten lumber. Once you get over the misconception that 'flat' and 'smooth' are the same thing, you can flatten a board with a sharp hand plane in almost the same time it takes to rig up the melamine board thingy (for similar sized pieces). Send the board flat side down through the planer to get the not-flattened side parallel to the flattened side, then flip the board over and use the planer to smooth the previously rough flattened side. Melamine board thingy trick is cool though, especially if you have to keep the boards long and wide.
14:02 do not sticker your boards like this it actually promotes warping. When stickered like this the weight of the boards above are weighing down the unsupported section of the lumber above. Causing bowing.The stickers should always be directly In a vertical line with each other. Like they were early in the video.
The important question needs to be. Is the difference in cost worth more than your time.
As usual, your videos are so informative !! I really enjoy watching them. Keep it up!
By simply adding a LONG straight edge to your table saw you will get a straight edge on one side, then flip it and cut a straight edge on the other and be done in much less time.
Metal Square Channel of the length you want and screwed/bolted into your saw fence will keep it in place and straight.
Cuts your prep time by 1/3 (don't have to set up router, etc).
To each their own. I don’t have a planer, jointer, or router table yet. In the amount of time it takes to set up most edge jointing power tool methods though, I can have my first few edges jointed with two well tuned and sharp hand planes. Maybe a project with lots of parts would still be faster with power tools even with the setup time, but until I’m ready to size up my hobby to production I’m good with my method.
Planing flat faces out of rough cut lumber is no contest with the machines though hands down.
I wonder if renting a house with a garage in your area is realistic and “affordable” (what things even are that anymore?) enough for you to upgrade your work space even before you’re ready to go full time into woodworking?
And you don't have to make them perfectly "Rob Cosman" flat off the hand planer. Depending on the board, like if it's thicker, and the drive wheels aren't going ot deflect out any bow, all you need do with the hand planes is get it flat enough to not rock. Take down the high spots, get it good enough to sit on four corners, and you save the mess of hot glue and shims. In my experience, when I didn't clean the hot glue off the wood before running it back through, all the glue gummed up my planer knives. Took forever to clean off. And also, in my experience, the hot glue rips out chunks of the melamine too. Doesn't always peel of clean.
Like I said, every case is different. Sometimes it's faster to do some rough flattening with a hand plane, sometimes its faster to go 100% sled. The downside to the hand plane is for it to be faster, you need a 'real' workbench and a good sharpening system. That's a separate investment in equipment and shop square footage.
And sometimes it's just fun to fully dimension a board, s4s, with hand tools.
@@barnamadau7857 very true. Power tools require the sufficient dedicated power to keep from tripping breakers, space, and the setup skills to keep them calibrated properly. Through in time and storage space space for jigs, sleds, and auxiliary accessories.
Hand tools require sharpening supplies and the learning curve of both use and sharpening. Nothing comes free or 100% easy in this woodworking game.
I usually use the hand tools to get stock ready for the power tools I need and have like table or miter saw.
It’s good to learn some of both to expand capacity
First time after watching 100's of videos that someone mentioned boards warping again after milling. Thanks for that.
is this video old? didnt you upgrade ur table saw lol
Time is money, I'll stick to premilled lumber but respect to anyone who has the time and patience to do it themselves
"...who has time and patience..." your principle assesment sounds off
The vast majority of commercial cabinet shops and furniture shops buy rough lumber the only cabinet shops that buy surfaced lumber are ones that use primarily plywood.. By far the majority of s4s is hobbiest woodworkers. Time is money and experienced woodworkers can process rough sawn boards cheaper and better than a middleman. Plus you have way more control over the boards you use. The problem with premilled boards is you still have to let it acclimated and when you do you have no room to flatten it when it moves. 90% or better of professional woodworkers buy rough sawn. And the vast majority of serious amateurs buy rough sawn. Furniture built from premilled 3/4” material can usually be spotted a mile away. Having said that I do not blame amateurs one bit for using premilled lumber. But using the “time is money” excuse is not accurate
@@genecarden780 I wouldn't label it as an excuse but as lack of knowledge.
@@didndido3638 you are right I should not have labeled it as an excuse
@@didndido3638 you are right
Very much enjoy your videos. Only thing I disagreed with is you said “don’t understand the complex intricacies of the metric system”. The metric system is actually easier but unfamiliar to us. That’s my nitpicking for the day. 😂
Great tips as always! Thanks, Eric.
Glad to see you went to Almendinger's! I love that place!
I Loved your Video and benefitted from your presentation . . . Chris . . . Norwich, England
I have found I get minimal if none existent snipe when trailing end slightly higher than the leading end when putting it in and then raising the leading edge when coming out.
1:47 if someone approaches me in a parking lot holding a piece of walnut like that I might...
... run towards them.
Stop getting ripped off by finding a new lumber supplier!
everything here is spot-on but you left out a first step. those rough-milled boards you bought were cut to length at the mill with a chain saw. you see jagged, angled cuts, sometimes two sloppy cuts merged, and then the mill sprays the end grain with some kind of sealant to reduce moisture migration through the end cut. the spray sealant keeps the boards more or less marketable, but because of the large surface area on the rough cut, it's not very effective. first thing i'm gonna do with those boards is dress the ends with a finishing blade, producing a splinter-free, glass-smooth surface. if you then apply sealant to that you are gonna have a much more stable board because you are forcing moisture to be released slowly and evenly throughout the board rather than fast and unevenly through the ends. this is especially important if you are storing the wood in your shop for long periods, but even if you are using it right away, you may find the milling process to be easier with better board stability as you remove material and expose moister wood underneath
Good stuff, there are amazon sellers that make hot glue guns that work with the other battery platforms that do not havs a got glue gun like dewalt, makita, and Milwaukee.
wonder what happens to a board if it's placed in a total vacuum.
Snipe usually happens when the piece of wood is too short for thicknesser mechanism and doesn't bridge the distance between the infeed roll and the axle + too steep cutting depth.
Has there been a grading vid of what not to touch and what makes a good purchase in the first place?
What do you think is the best spoil board for a CNC machine with aluminum bed as in shark
Thank you
Wow, your lumber prices are super low compared to Utah. We basically have one hardwood dealer out here and I priced out some 4/4 White Oak yesterday. They want $12.11 for quarter sawn and $14.31 for rift sawn.
Thank you, appreciate
I just want to know why the clamps still have tags on them.
You need more tools!!! A combined jointer and thicknes planer mabye?
Good vid;
On your staking process, could adding weight across entire surface save a bit of time?
i dont even plan on woodworking but this is a very enjoyable video
Denatured Alcohol or ISA will make hot glue release. No need for scraping.
good detailed information. watching it 1.75x speed.
You totally didn’t save 34%! Probably like 32 or 33%.
What if you do not own a planer or a jointer?
I really enjoy your vids and your sense of humor.
My ol’ daddy used to say “That saw won’t run backwards!”
Hey Eric- what do you have for your dust collection? It's 110V, right?
“Tons and tons of people”….so it’s about how much they all weigh. Got it.
couldn't you speed up the process of getting rid of warp by placing the lumber in a high pressure steam chamber, then taking out and sandwiching between flat metal beams and placing in a low temperature kiln?
Yea, we all have those in our apartment garage 😂
Bro, we all have one of those drawers.
RUclips unsubscribed me from your channel and then attempted to hide your videos from me for two months..... I got you back now, though!!
🤯when you adjust the height of your router bit. I didn't even know that existed! Also, thanks for all the other info. I knew bits and pieces but this was the most well-structured demo I've seen.
Thank you for the video…memes and all!
We just moved into a new house and I’m about to set up my shop. Would you be willing to post a layout of your garage set up?
how do you know
Spectacular mullet in the router video!
It’s really not necessary to add all the memes. One person done it long ago and now everybody seems to think that they have to do it to add humor. speaking for myself and I’m sure others, we don’t watch your videos for the humor we watch it for the woodworking tips. Sorry just my own opinion I really get tired of everybody adding memes to everything, it gets ridiculous.
You have to have a little fun slipped into these videos or else it turns into such a drag! After hearing yourself say the same thing for the 25th time in editing you’re looking for anything to lighten up the mood!
I will say thank you for not doing those stupid alternate angles as you talk that all the other woodworkers seem to think is the trend of these days. Talk about something that's run its course.
Lotsa ass shaking going on in this vid...
I’m looking forward to extra memes in the next video.
As someone that has been a woodworker for a very long time ( mid 1980’s) my opinion is just the opposite. As a woodworker he has mediocre skills and knowledge at best. That’s ok. He very often gets things wrong. (For instance the way he has the wood stickered at 13:38 can cause warped boards. It should be stickered with the stickers in a direct vertical line so the weight of all of the upper boards is supported by the stickers. Instead of putting the weight on unsupported sections of the lower boards. With a stack of boards this big the weight on the lower boards can be significant. Then there is his thickness planer sled where the cleat is on the wrong end. The force of the feed rollers pushes the wood forward not back wards.) What he is good at, is making entertaining content. He is a far better content creator than he is a woodworker.
I feel compelled to point out The Lick at 10:11
omg all those cuts and camera changes game me a headache
It's funny how you censored Woodpeckers... Ppl who watche this kind of content know what a red ruler is...
Huge windup. Left after 7 minutes and you did get to the point yet.
I'm not sure how you saved 34%. You spent hours milling your lumber and probably lost about 34% of your purchase by making wood chips as compared to premilled lumber. While there are definite benefits of milling your own lumber, this video did not really point them out.
Perhaps there’s a misunderstanding. If you cut the long board closer to final measurements, you lose less wood than trying to flatten the entire board
Dude, just enjoy the video.
Getting premilled lumber you are spending at least 34% more or higher. You have a higher level of control milling it yourself.
It does not take hours to mill a piece of lumber. It takes 10 to 20 minutes at best, especially when you have a technique down.
@@josekunhardt He stated that it took four hours to mill up the lumber. If it was either full of defects or significantly thicker than he needed, then he would save money by buying dimensioned lumber. I realize that it isn't always easy to find the dimensioned lumber that is ideal for your project, but time is money. If it took four hours to mill lumber then you had to remove a lot of wood to bring it down to the desired dimensions. That waste also costs money.
cut it 3 times and its still too short
Damn Eric! Here I was upset about only having a 6” jointer! Dude is over here hot glueing rough lumber to a melamine sled for crying out loud!
You should try it once. It’s a hell of a workout
I don't make mistakes.
I make agile design decisions to mitigate karmic trends.
Blah, blah, blah, blahdah dee, blah... Be quiet & start building us some furniture!! Hoping all is well Bud, Dirty Jersey out!!!
Hope while you read this you're chuckling & thinking ahhhh classic Mike G😂🙏
Does it take you so long to put out videos because you let the acclimate on your computer? 🤣
Timber 😂👌👌
Woodworking isn’t brain surgery like all you RUclips guys want to make it. You are scaring people away from a fun hobby.
Second!
Also, let me take this prestigious comment position to direct people over to our podcast: Off The Cut, available wherever you listen to podcasts.
You REALLY need to find a different adjective than "perfect". It's so cringe hearing you describe everything as "perfectly perfect".