I am a newcomer to your videos. This is the first one that I have watched and I find it so refreshing to see someone put craftsmanship into a project rather than assembly line construction. You explain every reason why you do something a particular way and it makes so much sense. I think I have found a new favorite woodworking channel.
For the average guy, this is the kind of video that is the most useful. Most of us have a limited assortment of wood working tools, limited space and are left to work with poorer quality wood. Thanks for the great tips and showing how to do some woodworking without 25K worth of state of the art equipment in a three car garage LOL.
Yeah I suppose I might be deranged or cheap, but I love pine. I like the challenge of taking something cheap or looked down on and turning it into something nice.
@@contestwill1556 That can at least be avoided by learning to be careful. The think I hate the most is all those damn knots in the wood from old branches. They can be pretty, but they're a b*tch to work with
Yeah like having a joiner, a 12 or 14 inch planer, or that expensive dowel jig, not to mention that really nice table saw and router table. I forgot to mention the shoulder plane that even he said was expensive. Most people have a jobsite table saw, chop saw or regular circular saw for the average guy! And I guarantee you that it's ever bit of 25K worth of tools he's using!
LOL I just got done working on a pine project, and had to fill in some dings. I wondered how much damage was done to that panel he dropped. A smashed corner is the worst.@@contestwill1556
Just checked prices at Home Depot. A 1 x 8 x 8 common pine board costs $17.33. Figuring 20% waste in machining the boards into your cabinet project, the pine costs $4.40 per SF. A sheet of 3/4" pine sanded plywood at Home Depot costs $51.78, or, figuring 10% waste (waste could actually be close to 0% if you dimension your cabinets in a way to eliminate waste), costs $1.78 per SF. This is not to mention all the additional time (and tools) needed to get the pine boards into a place where they can form the cabinet parts. You are looking at around 3 times the cost building the cabinets out of solid pine as opposed to using plywood. And thats for common pine, which will have a ton of knots in it. Bump that up to select pine and the costs will be astronomical. If you want to make your cabinets out of solid pine, great, but don't say that you saved all this money over using plywood - it's just not so.
And the whole reason cabinets and other wood furniture is made with plywood or MDF as the core is because of the price and their stability in varying humidity conditions. That pine, especially the doors, is going to warp. But he did help by finishing the wood inside and out. And does good work. I just wouldn't have chosen pine. And the door center panel need to float in the rails and stiles for expansion.
@@steadyeddie7453 Have made cabinets both ways. I do kitchen type cabinets from plywood for efficiency. |I make furniture cabinets from solid wood for satisfaction doing it as a high-end product. Have had a problem with using solid maple for a fairly small cabinet with the wood warping after it was finished. And that wood was well aged so it shouldn't have had that much moisture content. Grrrr.
@@johnburton2338 I agree with everything you said. My biggest learning curve was not the machining of the wood products, it is knowing which wood to choose for a particular project. Knowing how that wood is going to expand and contract. I used to glue up solid everything I built. No longer. But basically long thin wood like for rails and styles that are secured on the ends only I go with very well seasoned wood to prevent warp, curling. etc. Drawers are always baltic birch sides w/ ply bottoms. Cabinet sides will be furniture grade ply or MDF laminated with a beautiful veneer. Guaranteed flat for years. Solid maple is beautiful wood but the hard stuff is extrememly dense. I always take small bites to avoid the heat and stress. And when I plane rough sawn to thickness I do it over a few days to let it relieve stresses overnight.
Exactly! I've been trying to revamp my space lately, and I'm planning to shove a table in with some shelves and drawer space to work on projects. I can do the table, complete with legs, trim pieces, and getting it delivered, all for around £60 and one day of work, I'll still have plenty left over for the shelves too (but I'm lazy, so I won't do them same day). The only downside is it won't look the best, so I'll need to spend 20-30 bucks more on some veneer to finish it off. But that still beats sitting there for a week or two glueing boards together, having an uneven wood grain, and just wasting time on something that I'm making only for myself. Plus, I live in an apartment, so it's a little hard to get all those tools in and keep the place clean if I was to do it this way, and like you said, it's way more expensive.
OMG Best Video Ever! Finally someone explains the steps to using solid wood for cabinets without glossing over too much and at the same time keeping the whole build simple and achievable for the average Joe! Bravo. Btw I really enjoy how you make your workshop look classy and functional!
@@jenniepost7837You need to tag him in your comment if you want to have any chance of him seeing it given it’s a response to someone’s comment. You really would be better off posting it as an original comment of your own though as someone else might know the answer, possibly based on finishes he has generally used in the past.
@@angellas.1314 Not sure the specifics you asked since my comment wasn’t in response to anything you asked, but if you check out the wood whisperer’s channel, he has several videos about different finishes. He rarely uses stain though so if you specifically wanted stain info you won’t find answers there but his finishes videos are still well worth watching. For what it’s worth, generally when I’ve seen people using stain, they generally have said that brands really don’t matter much, you just need to make sure you know how you can use oil based products with water/solvent based products IF you want to use one for stain and the other for a topcoat. The easiest takeaway is to use water/solvent based topcoats over water/solvent based stains or oil over oil.
This has to be one of your best videos. I’ve been following you for quite a while and I really appreciate how you teach in a different manner. It’s actually really refreshing to learn things rather than hearing the same mantra
From my 15 years of experience in cabinet making, it’s way easier to completely assemble your cabinets, hang doors and mount hardware, while still on your bench. When it’s time to hang cabinets, pop doors off, hang your boxes then just snap doors onto hinge plates. It saves you from having to mess around with clamps, and measuring for hinge plates in awkward positions. To each their own. Good work.
@@kwilliams2239 The pegboard I used had 1" spacing: 32mm is a little more than 1- 1/4". As long as the spacing is consistent (IE don't mix 1" and 32mm) I don't think it matters?
@@gregtaylor3432 Depending on the application, maybe. Standards are there for a reason. Templates can he had for $10. For $10, there is no reason not to use the standard spacing and setbacks.
If I recall correctly, the 32mm standard was created because that was as close as whoever came up with it could get the heads of the pin drilling machine. Sometimes (not to say frequently) the reason for the standard isn't a grand master plan, it's some practical limitation to somebody long ago.
@@disco_falcon1895 OK, Some say that the standard rail gauge is 4' 8-1/2", which has been used for hundreds of years, has it's history (arguably) going back to the Roman's chariots. It doesn't really matter how it got here, it's not called the "Standard Rail Gauge" for nothing. If you want to use standard hardware, use the standards. Now, why are there both 1/4" and 5mm holes?😁
When you just "make my own shelf pin hole jig" and you crank something out that is both fully functional and versatile aligning in multiple scenarios, you know this is not your first carpentry project. Nice work and nice demonstration of being a thoughtful self-sufficient woodworker. Now just finding the right place to store the jig for future use.... but I digress.
Having grown up with plywood being cheaper than solid lumber, the new paradigm is weird to me. But making panels out of pine is actually really fun. I've been doing it using a biscuit joiner for years and years. Two new things you taught me in this video: the I/O trick (one of those "why didn't I think of that?" ideas) and doing a quick hand planing to clean up unevenness in the joints. I've always just sanded, but hand planing seems like a time saver. Great video!
@@lavransmathiesen9099 Really the cheapest plywood is 30 dollars a sheet. There is never a need that you should have to have high grade plywood for cabinets. A simple quick sand on a large belt sander machine and a spray on the inside is really all you need. Those people who would rather spend 80 dolllars a sheet for sanded plywood for something that is not going to be seen is beyond me.
@@kameljoe21 well- by the time you run it through the wide belt, get it in a spray booth, seal, sand, and finish coat (not to mention paying for the finish and sandpaper), even $110/sheet prefin maple is cheaper than a shop-grade plywood. There is no $30/sheet ply available in Seattle. Even the MDF is $35/sheet or more. Now, if it's the pine option, then the cost for that here is $12.72/board for 1x6, making it $114.48 for 32 square feet (equal to a sheet of plywood). It's way more fun to build with solid stock, though. Just not cheaper than plywood.
I honestly don't know what he's talking about. Cabinet grade plywood is about $65 for a full sheet where I'm at. Those S4S pine boards are like ten bucks a pop at the same store for an 8ft long, 4.5 inch wide one, and they aren't flat and have loose knots and sap pockets etc.
@@lavransmathiesen9099 You are entirely correct! With the exception of certain work the $35-$40 1/2” ‘sande’ plywood at homerdespot (maybe more $ now?) is fantastic for carcass and face frame construction. Solid wood is for furniture and trim imho, or when you require the esthetic. Probably you’re thinking same, but I’d have a plywood carcass ready for five minutes of assembly before getting boards prepped to drill for dowels. And I’d never dowel a carcass or door stiles and rails when other methods would do it in seconds while being just as strong or stronger.
love it! I have a forest of pine. I was toying with the idea of making kitchen cabinets entirely from pine from the forest. Now I know it will be doable and look great. Have sawmill, will saw! Thankyou you saved me a TON of cash in plywood casings. great video
Are you kidding me? Why would pine be weaker than mdf o ldf cabinets? If your house is built with pine why couldnt it support a counter top 😂?@@angellas.1314
It's fantastic how you go over each step in such detail, and point out the mistakes you have *prevented*! And it must be said, the end result looks amazing!!
I really enjoyed seeing you create this. The workmanship is excellent, the advanced planning for the various steps is informative, and the result is the traditional design that I like and so seldom see these days. I appreciate the list of tools, parts, etc. in the details included in the ‘more’ text beneath the video. I’m impressed by the thought that went into the video production - it is tutorial on how to produce a fine RUclips episode. Well done!
I've been thinking about making cabinets out of edge-jointed, solid wood for a while now. Seeing this video has revived my motivation to give it a shot. Thanks, Scott Walsh! 👍🏻
@@steadyeddie7453 I've found red oak cheaper than clear pine. Crap pine is more expensive than ply, and a lot harder to work with. Now, if the comparison is to Baltic birch? Well, you're way richer than I. I'd rather use walnut.😵
@@kwilliams2239 Agree with you on the cost of red oak vs clear pine. Knotty pine isn't worth the frustration. Too many problems. But I am a snob for the Baltic Birch. Zero voids, zero knots, stays flat, machines easily. All the drawers I make are BB, along with many of the jigs over the years. Expensive, yes. But I wait for Rockler to have a sale then head to my new Fairfax, Va store to avoid the shipping.
@@steadyeddie7453 was at Woodcraft this afternoon. A 2'x4' sheet of 3/4" *American* birch was $100. $400 a sheet?! For American?! I bought some American Birch from Rockler a while back (don't get there often). It wasn't nearly as expensive as the Baltic but it had voids in it. Sheesh. Might just as well stick with box store hardwood ply. Just remember not to sand the picture of wood off it.
@@kwilliams2239 I would guess that the American birch you are referring to is Appleply. I have yet to try it. From what I was told, when Russia invaded Ukraine, the price of BB skyrocketed. My local H.D. sometimes has decent hardwood ply, depending on where they get it. But make no mistake, it is never the quality of BB.
Just found this channel thanks to the magic of the algorithm. Thanks RUclips!! Great channel. Very nice sound and video quality. Also, never would have thought to make panels out of pine to build cabinets instead of ply. GENIUS!
I recently started a project building custom shelving in my walk in closet and when I was pricing wood sanded plywood was cheaper than similar pine in my area (Nashville TN). Especially when you take into account the time savings associated with the plywood vs glue ups etc. And when using plywood no cupping issues etc.
Definitely one of the funniest and revolutionary carpenters on youtube still able to gain as much views on the old topic like cabinet! Yours is posh!!!! sharp jokes and relaxing approach - super!
Is it really cheaper to use pine boards in materials cost? And when you factor in the time for joining boards... I like a back to square my cabinets. And I am a dowel convert. I used to try to build everything with pocket screws, but I like my dowel plus glue results much better.
If you like dowels then try biscuits. A Porter Cable biscuit jointer costs about the same as the Dowelmax jig. And biscuits are 1000% easier to install. Dowels have to be dead nuts on with their mating holes. Biscuit slots allow for some movement for perfect alignment.
The wood might be a little cheaper but doubt that the saving compensates for the added time. First time I've seen this channel, video was good but yet another RUclipsr that doesn't outline costs when making claims about savings 🤷🏻♂️
@@jasonshumake777 Biscuits absolutely add strength to a joint. Yes, dowels can be stronger than biscuits depending on the stress angles on the joint, but biscuits are not just for alignment. And actually because the slots for biscuits are larger than the biscuit itself, alignment is not perfect. You still must tweak the joint into perfect position during assembly.
Tip since you use it elsewhere - I have discovered that putting a piece of painters tape on my finished piece and then marking layouts on that, instead of the piece (like you did for hinges) is faster than erasing layout lines
Great video! Everything is to the point, I’m a professional carpenter and this is how we do the high end cabinets for those multi million dollar homes, no plywood just hardwood (white oak), what a good job man, keep it up!
Ever since I got into doing some furniture making, I don’t know why more beginners use pine? It’s cheap, it is soft but cheap! Great way to practice. I love the back panel btw!
Man, Sundays are my favourite. All my woodworking RUclipsrs post videos. Great vid! You are absolutely the best for entertainment and engagement. Love your stuff
I'm having a really hard time understanding how S4S Pine being around 48 square inches per dollar, that you still have to edge joint, vs over 92 square inches per dollar for nice sanded plywood is better?
Have to say, this is the first video I watched from you, and it definitely has the most comedic value than any other woodworking/how-to/DYI/etc. I have watched😄 Also it feels very down to earth type of doing. Very good👍🏼
I will never stop using plywood. And I would use it over pine any day of the week because it's stronger, less prone to warping, and I can get a selection of veneers to match the doors and drawer fronts. I prefer oak for doors and drawer fronts for its looks and durability. Pine is too soft to take the abuse of a kitchen cabinet door or drawer front. Cheers.
Home depot stocks various widths of birch at relatively reasonable prices that are really good for small solid cabinet door fronts and for stiles&rails for the larger doors with use of thin plywood sheathing insetted for the panels. I still like pine for cabinet sides, again with plywood sheathing in a rabbet for cabinet backs
The fuck do you guys get this ignorance from? Plywood is never going to be as superior to even cheap garbage solid wood… you’re fucking stupid to think like this!
In my area (Oregon) pine seems to cost as much as oak or maple. The cheap woods are big leaf maple, alder, and poplar. Seems like this would work just fine with any of those woods as well.
Beautiful job Scott! And always a good thing to see the dowelmax get a workout! Speaking of which, for future reference, you can you use your dowelmax to make a shelf pin jig and have very accurately spaced holes. Catch you on the next one!
I really like the sold wood panels. However how are you leaving room for expansion? Are you leaving space inside the door panels? The end project looks great. Thanks for the video.
Very nice! Great video, concise, many tips and--above all--practical all the way through. My only gripe is the handles: too modern looking for a traditional/rustic design. I guess, since these are intended for a workshop they may be preferred on reasons of practicality. One last thing: this was strangely relaxing for carpentry video which are usually very highly strung. I don't know why most carpentry videos are done that way but they definitely don't have to be as this one clearly shows!
First time I have ever seen you and I will be making mine the same way. to copy is flattery, so they say. I don't have space for much wood working and this doesn't require that many. I really like how you did everything. But as a youtube commenter I have to pick about the finish. Pine bleeds like crazy so the only thing that will keep these from getting brown orange, is to seal them with shellac, or shellac based primer ("Kilz Original", and some other one I can't pronounce or spell). Do NOT worry and waste your time what it looks like, just be sure to cover it all. Even if you are going to paint these, the sap will bleed right through your paint if not sealed. You might have used a clear shellac so just to warn others about it. Thanks and subscribed. I was going to ask if you can do the same thing for base cabinets but you just answered that. Thanks again.
Thanks Scott. I wanted to build the jack miter panels since i saw them in your miter table build. I didn't see much of a description in that vid and i didn't even know they were called jack miters. So i searched around the web and found my way back to this vid. I then scoffed at the dowels until i realized they're an even better idea for the cabinet fronts. Hey, then maybe i'll do the mortise and tenon for cabinet doors after. So, yeah, thanks for doing all trial and er.. more trial. I, too, already had the bead bit. I remember buying it but it was just too large for a picture frame. It'll finally get use for these drawer fronts.
Loved your mini planer sled trick to remove the cup from your panel. I need to lock that one away in memory for later use. I also really liked what you did with the bead and miter joints on your rails and stiles. Another trick I need to lock away. Thanks.
If you want to try something different, I made drawers (6) by taking a 2x4x8 cutting into the proper lenghts, then cutting them down to 1/2" and using the left over piece for the bottom. Quick and fast and they hold heavy food items, and have for years. I attached them to full pull out drawer guides.
18:32 ooooh sliding miter saw! I'm sure you have a build video for that. That looks quite interesting. I have a 5m shed (20ft) and most boards come in 2.4m (8ft) so theoretically if I put it in the middle, I should have room either side for a full length board but with a shelving unit on the right side its not quite as practical. This could be handy. Was it worth the effort over a fixed position table? EDIT: Ok so I go to check it out and see I have watched it already lol but at least now I remember again
I find that a curved tip dental syringe is super for dispensing glue precisely and controllably where it is needed in the amount required. It is easy to fill and to cap up with a toothpick after dispensing the glue.... Dental syringes are very inexpensive and can be used disposably when you are not going to use them again for a long time. They are particularly useful for injecting glue under loose portions of veneer when repairing furniture.
I am thinking of putting a finish on some to buy lumber that I'm using to make a bed.And I always wanted to know what different stains would look like.And when you made your cabinet, you put a finish on them.But you didn't say what it was.Any chance of finding that out
Interesting dowel jig. I’m going to look into that. That said, I’ve never understood why people use sooo much glue to fasten boards together. All that squeezeout is just waste, creates extra work to clean up, and creates stain and topcoat issues. Additionally, putting glue on the dowels, which are really just small tenons, creates even more glueing issues. Just put glue in the holes/morteses and the dowels/tenons will force the glue *into* the whole instead of being rubbed *off of* the dowel as it’s inserted into the whole. In 20 years of woodworking I have never had a joint fail with the amount of glue I use. The Rockler silicone glue brush does a perfect job of applying just the amount of glue needed *on one side of the board*. Anyone that’s telling you to apply glue to both boards or so there’s a bunch of squeezeout has a glue sponsorship.
Glad more people come around to use pine. Esp with lumber prices as they are. Sure you can dent pine with a fingernail, BUT, how often do you run around and try to damage your cabinets? I just made modern style doors out of pine, to freshen up my grandma's old kitchen. Added an off white stain and a small vertical router line. Some modern door handels, a bit of a round over and the kitchen looks as good as new_ish.
This looks insane! So much work! If just one person built a machine that can do that instead, all of humanity would take advantage and nobody would ever have to do this manually again.
Those cabinets look really nice 👌 seems very approachable for an average person with not too many tools in their arsenal. I like those panels on the inside of the cabinets. Some may say these are too nice for a workshop; however, I also like having nice-looking cabinets in my work area. So much so that I have had people remark that my workshop looks more and more like a kitchen every time they see it. Thanks for the video, Scott!
Am I missing something here? From HD: 8" x 3/4" x 96" = $16. 4x8 plywood $30. How is the solid board cheaper? I do have a lot of cabinets to make and really want to know how to save a buck.
The thing that you're missing is that you can't find S4S material at HD or cabinet grade plywood. Although 3/4" backing is extremely overbuilt, 1/4" plywood is all that is needed for and you can get beaded plywood for exactly the same "country look".
One issue with pine and spruce however is that it doesn't take stain evenly. I solved this for one project by taking a can of dye based wood stain, and mixing it with equal volume varnish. In my case both were water based. Then applied a zillion coats, very lightly sanding with 600 grit wet sand paper between coats. The win was that with water based stain, I could put a coat on every 30 minutes. Using the paper wet, kept the dust down. Even so, I set up two benches -- one to sand on, and one to stain on.
I know you keep saying they're "just shop cabinets" but so you're aware, I have 50 year old cedar cabinets in my kitchen which I absolutely adore and yours are infinitely better, congrats, subbed
I feel like the dowel jig could have been used for shelf pin holes, though it might have been a little slower. But super precise and it’s nice to get a new use from a tool!
VERY nice build and I really like how you did the corners for the doors. I have never seem that method and will try it. Also like your choices of music!!
I made a pin jig very similar to yours years ago and color coded the corners so I could remember which way it needed to be oriented... For the same reasons you mentioned needing to remember the orientation.
Really nice-looking cabinets. I do not begin to have any of your shop tools, but the video was still fun and instructive. My last project was making a 4 shelf stand for holding my game consoles, CD player and the inevitable clutter with Purple Heartwood.
Well I have to tell you, that I have been doing DIY for years, and watching video's, and I must yours is absolutely brilliant not only the wood working but with a funny side too, you might not think that but I you were great, cant wait to see more of them, and what a bonus, in real wood too yippeee. Keep up the good work, thank you
Just Wow, first of all you make fantastic videos. Just a pleasure to watch. It makes these projects just seem so approachable and fun. Second of all, the Cabinets look fantastic.
The video is very interesting. Nice cabinets. Must be hard to work with the ceiling so low and those dark green walls, so dark in there. If the walls were whitish or beige or something...
finishing the inside of the cabinets is actually a good idea even though its a shop piece.. if you finish the outside and not the inside is possible to get massive cupping or twisting due to different moisture absorption rates.
Can we just appreciate how you casually use a crosscut sled with the workpiece and fence on the front of the sled 👏🏽 I’ll assume this is for cutting wider boards without have to have a sled you need a forklift to move. Bravo and thanks for adding to my repertoire of jigs. PS. Not finsh vid yet, just had to mention before I forget 😂
Solid is cheaper than ply now? What a weird world. I like to use French cleats to install stuff like this -- no helper stand needed, and you get the leveling out of the way before the cabinet's even on the wall.
I can buy rough cut lumber half the price of plywood and all it needs it ran though the jointer and planer and it’s some of the best wood you can buy. Plywood is straight trash for everything it being cheap and fast.
Remember: clamping with too much pressure will cause cupping. Use a ruler to check if there's bowing. If there is, reduce pressure on the clamps until it goes away
After you put 4 panels together to form a box shape, do you need to make sure all inside angles are right angles? If the box shear a little bit, two angles will be more than 90 degrees and two would be less.
You measure opposite corners of the box to verify they are the same in order to check for the squareness of the box. It's like comparing the hypotenuse of two right triangles
That "lazy planer sled" tip is golden. Instant Like for it. Are you a brand ambassador for King Canada? Lotsa King stuff you have there. It's so refreshing to see a maker who doesn't have a Sawstop. 👍
I'd be afraid to use solid wood for cabinet carcasses because of potential warping if the space it occupies has big humidity swings. A hot/humid summer day where a window is left open or a water leak when no one is home for a while could wreak havoc on wood furniture. Plywood is much less prone to warping, although all wood will warp if wet long enough. I veneer plywood for cabinet exposed sides, which is usually cheaper than something like solid 4/4 walnut of rift white oak. Baltic birch is usually the flatest and strongest plywood and I use that on entertainment centers or furniture sides anything larger than 24" x 24". Solid wood also requires time (a few days to weeks) to allow the wood to acclimate to the room it's in after a few passes through a planer before the final planed surface is done. Extra jointing may be required for flatness if the planed wood moves and you may lose the final thickness target if jointing needs to be done, which is a waste of nice material. That's not required for plywood. If solid wood is used, it's important to seal all sides to keep warping from happening under normal conditions. I learned that the hard way when my 96" x 36" butcher block work bench top turned into a potato chip that I needed to replace because I finished the top but left the underside raw. My shop's humidity has swings. A warped table top makes using it as an assembly surface almost impossible.
Looks like you spent a few hours to find those boards that did have many knots or cupping in them. Best option I found is to use solid pine for the draw sides, and good plywood for the draw bottoms & cabinet carcass. Other wise you spend hours & hours search for quality pine board, unless your willing to spend $50+ on a good premium Pine board imported from Chile, NZ, etc. What I really wish a US plywood mfg. would make plywood with solid pine boards glued together with a top & bottom plywood veneer so there is some solid wood for screws. This is available overseas, just not in the US (at least not any lumber retailer I've visited).
I'm fairly new to doing woodworking stuff and I was thinking about using plywood to make a cubby style bookshelf. Is that a bad idea as well? If so, any suggestion on which type of wood to make it instead? Thinking about making my own, bc most pre-made ones are only 12" deep and I need something 15-16" deep... I've been trying to find woodworking content creators who have done something similar, but haven't been able to find a video specific to what I want to make... :(
Could you describe which planes you used on this project please? I'm a complete newbie and interested in which hand planes I need to begin making tighter fitting joinery.
He used a Stanley #4 (commonly called a smoothing plane) when cleaning up the glue joints, and tbh I was only listening to most of the video so I didn't notice if he used anything else. I'll probably watch it again as I'm moving shop spaces and may put cabinets up, but if I see anything else I'll follow up. You could do most of the work you'd need to start with a #4, a #4 1/2 (almost the same size but with a wider sole and iron/blade) or a #5 (also called a jack plane, it's wider and longer than the #4). Rex Krueger has a great video about buying old planes online and how to find the "less desirable" but still well functioning pieces from certain eras. Fair warning: you may have to flatten the sole, sharpen the iron, better fit the chip breaker etc but there are hundreds of videos about how to tune up handplanes on RUclips (Rex, James Wright of Wood by Wright, Paul Sellers, Nick Engler of Woodshop Companion and many others are all excellent resources). I would recommend buying whichever you can afford between a 4 and a 5, or both if you can afford them; you can always buy the other one later. Once you're more accustomed to hand tool work you can decide on getting bigger jointing planes, rabbeting planes, moulding planes etc, but don't worry about those yet.
Watching a bit further, he also used a block plane and a shoulder plane. You can find pretty decent and inexpensive versions of these from taytools, but there are plenty of old block planes available on eBay and wherever (tbh you could just use the #4 for anything he did with the block plane). If you can't afford a shoulder plane right now you could make Paul Sellers' poor man's router plane out of a chisel and a block of wood, then just keep pressure on your reference surface to flatten any rabbets or dadoes
I am a newcomer to your videos. This is the first one that I have watched and I find it so refreshing to see someone put craftsmanship into a project rather than assembly line construction. You explain every reason why you do something a particular way and it makes so much sense. I think I have found a new favorite woodworking channel.
For the average guy, this is the kind of video that is the most useful. Most of us have a limited assortment of wood working tools, limited space and are left to work with poorer quality wood. Thanks for the great tips and showing how to do some woodworking without 25K worth of state of the art equipment in a three car garage LOL.
Yeah I suppose I might be deranged or cheap, but I love pine. I like the challenge of taking something cheap or looked down on and turning it into something nice.
yeah the thing I hate about working with pine is I always manage to drop it or whack it on something denting the hell out of it
@@contestwill1556 That can at least be avoided by learning to be careful. The think I hate the most is all those damn knots in the wood from old branches. They can be pretty, but they're a b*tch to work with
Yeah like having a joiner, a 12 or 14 inch planer, or that expensive dowel jig, not to mention that really nice table saw and router table. I forgot to mention the shoulder plane that even he said was expensive. Most people have a jobsite table saw, chop saw or regular circular saw for the average guy! And I guarantee you that it's ever bit of 25K worth of tools he's using!
LOL I just got done working on a pine project, and had to fill in some dings. I wondered how much damage was done to that panel he dropped. A smashed corner is the worst.@@contestwill1556
Just checked prices at Home Depot. A 1 x 8 x 8 common pine board costs $17.33. Figuring 20% waste in machining the boards into your cabinet project, the pine costs $4.40 per SF. A sheet of 3/4" pine sanded plywood at Home Depot costs $51.78, or, figuring 10% waste (waste could actually be close to 0% if you dimension your cabinets in a way to eliminate waste), costs $1.78 per SF. This is not to mention all the additional time (and tools) needed to get the pine boards into a place where they can form the cabinet parts. You are looking at around 3 times the cost building the cabinets out of solid pine as opposed to using plywood. And thats for common pine, which will have a ton of knots in it. Bump that up to select pine and the costs will be astronomical.
If you want to make your cabinets out of solid pine, great, but don't say that you saved all this money over using plywood - it's just not so.
And the whole reason cabinets and other wood furniture is made with plywood or MDF as the core is because of the price and their stability in varying humidity conditions. That pine, especially the doors, is going to warp. But he did help by finishing the wood inside and out. And does good work. I just wouldn't have chosen pine. And the door center panel need to float in the rails and stiles for expansion.
@@steadyeddie7453 Righteo.
@@steadyeddie7453 Have made cabinets both ways. I do kitchen type cabinets from plywood for efficiency. |I make furniture cabinets from solid wood for satisfaction doing it as a high-end product. Have had a problem with using solid maple for a fairly small cabinet with the wood warping after it was finished. And that wood was well aged so it shouldn't have had that much moisture content. Grrrr.
@@johnburton2338 I agree with everything you said. My biggest learning curve was not the machining of the wood products, it is knowing which wood to choose for a particular project. Knowing how that wood is going to expand and contract. I used to glue up solid everything I built. No longer. But basically long thin wood like for rails and styles that are secured on the ends only I go with very well seasoned wood to prevent warp, curling. etc. Drawers are always baltic birch sides w/ ply bottoms. Cabinet sides will be furniture grade ply or MDF laminated with a beautiful veneer. Guaranteed flat for years. Solid maple is beautiful wood but the hard stuff is extrememly dense. I always take small bites to avoid the heat and stress. And when I plane rough sawn to thickness I do it over a few days to let it relieve stresses overnight.
Exactly! I've been trying to revamp my space lately, and I'm planning to shove a table in with some shelves and drawer space to work on projects.
I can do the table, complete with legs, trim pieces, and getting it delivered, all for around £60 and one day of work, I'll still have plenty left over for the shelves too (but I'm lazy, so I won't do them same day).
The only downside is it won't look the best, so I'll need to spend 20-30 bucks more on some veneer to finish it off. But that still beats sitting there for a week or two glueing boards together, having an uneven wood grain, and just wasting time on something that I'm making only for myself. Plus, I live in an apartment, so it's a little hard to get all those tools in and keep the place clean if I was to do it this way, and like you said, it's way more expensive.
OMG Best Video Ever! Finally someone explains the steps to using solid wood for cabinets without glossing over too much and at the same time keeping the whole build simple and achievable for the average Joe! Bravo. Btw I really enjoy how you make your workshop look classy and functional!
Thanks for the kind words!
Will you share the brand and color of stain please? Thanks.
@@jenniepost7837You need to tag him in your comment if you want to have any chance of him seeing it given it’s a response to someone’s comment. You really would be better off posting it as an original comment of your own though as someone else might know the answer, possibly based on finishes he has generally used in the past.
@@inmyimage1081I actually did ask myself also. But no answer yet.
@@angellas.1314 Not sure the specifics you asked since my comment wasn’t in response to anything you asked, but if you check out the wood whisperer’s channel, he has several videos about different finishes. He rarely uses stain though so if you specifically wanted stain info you won’t find answers there but his finishes videos are still well worth watching. For what it’s worth, generally when I’ve seen people using stain, they generally have said that brands really don’t matter much, you just need to make sure you know how you can use oil based products with water/solvent based products IF you want to use one for stain and the other for a topcoat. The easiest takeaway is to use water/solvent based topcoats over water/solvent based stains or oil over oil.
This has to be one of your best videos. I’ve been following you for quite a while and I really appreciate how you teach in a different manner. It’s actually really refreshing to learn things rather than hearing the same mantra
From my 15 years of experience in cabinet making, it’s way easier to completely assemble your cabinets, hang doors and mount hardware, while still on your bench. When it’s time to hang cabinets, pop doors off, hang your boxes then just snap doors onto hinge plates. It saves you from having to mess around with clamps, and measuring for hinge plates in awkward positions. To each their own. Good work.
FWIW: Pegboard cut into strips makes a good positioning jig for shelf pins
If you don't care about the standard 32mm spacing. Jigs aren't all that expensive.
@@kwilliams2239 The pegboard I used had 1" spacing: 32mm is a little more than 1- 1/4". As long as the spacing is consistent (IE don't mix 1" and 32mm) I don't think it matters?
@@gregtaylor3432 Depending on the application, maybe. Standards are there for a reason. Templates can he had for $10. For $10, there is no reason not to use the standard spacing and setbacks.
If I recall correctly, the 32mm standard was created because that was as close as whoever came up with it could get the heads of the pin drilling machine. Sometimes (not to say frequently) the reason for the standard isn't a grand master plan, it's some practical limitation to somebody long ago.
@@disco_falcon1895 OK, Some say that the standard rail gauge is 4' 8-1/2", which has been used for hundreds of years, has it's history (arguably) going back to the Roman's chariots. It doesn't really matter how it got here, it's not called the "Standard Rail Gauge" for nothing.
If you want to use standard hardware, use the standards. Now, why are there both 1/4" and 5mm holes?😁
When you just "make my own shelf pin hole jig" and you crank something out that is both fully functional and versatile aligning in multiple scenarios, you know this is not your first carpentry project. Nice work and nice demonstration of being a thoughtful self-sufficient woodworker. Now just finding the right place to store the jig for future use.... but I digress.
These are far nicer than most household cabinets that I have seen. Great work! Love it!
Having grown up with plywood being cheaper than solid lumber, the new paradigm is weird to me. But making panels out of pine is actually really fun. I've been doing it using a biscuit joiner for years and years. Two new things you taught me in this video: the I/O trick (one of those "why didn't I think of that?" ideas) and doing a quick hand planing to clean up unevenness in the joints. I've always just sanded, but hand planing seems like a time saver. Great video!
It's only cheaper if your time has no value.
@@lavransmathiesen9099 Really the cheapest plywood is 30 dollars a sheet. There is never a need that you should have to have high grade plywood for cabinets. A simple quick sand on a large belt sander machine and a spray on the inside is really all you need.
Those people who would rather spend 80 dolllars a sheet for sanded plywood for something that is not going to be seen is beyond me.
@@kameljoe21 well- by the time you run it through the wide belt, get it in a spray booth, seal, sand, and finish coat (not to mention paying for the finish and sandpaper), even $110/sheet prefin maple is cheaper than a shop-grade plywood. There is no $30/sheet ply available in Seattle. Even the MDF is $35/sheet or more.
Now, if it's the pine option, then the cost for that here is $12.72/board for 1x6, making it $114.48 for 32 square feet (equal to a sheet of plywood).
It's way more fun to build with solid stock, though. Just not cheaper than plywood.
I honestly don't know what he's talking about. Cabinet grade plywood is about $65 for a full sheet where I'm at. Those S4S pine boards are like ten bucks a pop at the same store for an 8ft long, 4.5 inch wide one, and they aren't flat and have loose knots and sap pockets etc.
@@lavransmathiesen9099
You are entirely correct!
With the exception of certain work the $35-$40 1/2” ‘sande’ plywood at homerdespot (maybe more $ now?) is fantastic for carcass and face frame construction. Solid wood is for furniture and trim imho, or when you require the esthetic.
Probably you’re thinking same, but I’d have a plywood carcass ready for five minutes of assembly before getting boards prepped to drill for dowels. And I’d never dowel a carcass or door stiles and rails when other methods would do it in seconds while being just as strong or stronger.
love it! I have a forest of pine. I was toying with the idea of making kitchen cabinets entirely from pine from the forest. Now I know it will be doable and look great. Have sawmill, will saw! Thankyou you saved me a TON of cash in plywood casings. great video
Have you made the cabinets? Will they support a quartz counter top?
Are you kidding me? Why would pine be weaker than mdf o ldf cabinets? If your house is built with pine why couldnt it support a counter top 😂?@@angellas.1314
It's fantastic how you go over each step in such detail, and point out the mistakes you have *prevented*! And it must be said, the end result looks amazing!!
Actual woodworking tips and not just more RUclipsr BS. Another banger from Scotty B Walsh
I really enjoyed seeing you create this. The workmanship is excellent, the advanced planning for the various steps is informative, and the result is the traditional design that I like and so seldom see these days. I appreciate the list of tools, parts, etc. in the details included in the ‘more’ text beneath the video. I’m impressed by the thought that went into the video production - it is tutorial on how to produce a fine RUclips episode. Well done!
I've been thinking about making cabinets out of edge-jointed, solid wood for a while now. Seeing this video has revived my motivation to give it a shot. Thanks, Scott Walsh! 👍🏻
You always take the time and effort to make all your projects beautiful no matter what materials you use. Looks super professional
Plywood is expensive, sure, but where do you get pine cheaper?
And the price of clear pine makes plywood an easy choice.
@@steadyeddie7453 I've found red oak cheaper than clear pine. Crap pine is more expensive than ply, and a lot harder to work with.
Now, if the comparison is to Baltic birch? Well, you're way richer than I. I'd rather use walnut.😵
@@kwilliams2239 Agree with you on the cost of red oak vs clear pine. Knotty pine isn't worth the frustration. Too many problems. But I am a snob for the Baltic Birch. Zero voids, zero knots, stays flat, machines easily. All the drawers I make are BB, along with many of the jigs over the years. Expensive, yes. But I wait for Rockler to have a sale then head to my new Fairfax, Va store to avoid the shipping.
@@steadyeddie7453 was at Woodcraft this afternoon. A 2'x4' sheet of 3/4" *American* birch was $100. $400 a sheet?! For American?!
I bought some American Birch from Rockler a while back (don't get there often). It wasn't nearly as expensive as the Baltic but it had voids in it. Sheesh.
Might just as well stick with box store hardwood ply. Just remember not to sand the picture of wood off it.
@@kwilliams2239 I would guess that the American birch you are referring to is Appleply. I have yet to try it. From what I was told, when Russia invaded Ukraine, the price of BB skyrocketed. My local H.D. sometimes has decent hardwood ply, depending on where they get it. But make no mistake, it is never the quality of BB.
Just found this channel thanks to the magic of the algorithm. Thanks RUclips!! Great channel. Very nice sound and video quality.
Also, never would have thought to make panels out of pine to build cabinets instead of ply. GENIUS!
Awesome to see a Canadian woodworking YT channel doing great content.
No offense to Scott…but…Rob Cosman?
Canadians who are good at woodworking? Who would have thought? Wood is so rare in Canada… 😂😂
Canadians also invented the Robertson screwdriver and screws.
I recently started a project building custom shelving in my walk in closet and when I was pricing wood sanded plywood was cheaper than similar pine in my area (Nashville TN). Especially when you take into account the time savings associated with the plywood vs glue ups etc. And when using plywood no cupping issues etc.
Definitely one of the funniest and revolutionary carpenters on youtube still able to gain as much views on the old topic like cabinet! Yours is posh!!!! sharp jokes and relaxing approach - super!
That beaded shiplap is stunning! I’m a huge fan of how beautiful aged pine looks.
Is it really cheaper to use pine boards in materials cost?
And when you factor in the time for joining boards...
I like a back to square my cabinets.
And I am a dowel convert. I used to try to build everything with pocket screws, but I like my dowel plus glue results much better.
If you like dowels then try biscuits. A Porter Cable biscuit jointer costs about the same as the Dowelmax jig. And biscuits are 1000% easier to install. Dowels have to be dead nuts on with their mating holes. Biscuit slots allow for some movement for perfect alignment.
The wood might be a little cheaper but doubt that the saving compensates for the added time. First time I've seen this channel, video was good but yet another RUclipsr that doesn't outline costs when making claims about savings 🤷🏻♂️
@@steadyeddie7453biscuits don’t add to the strength they just help alignment. Dowels make it stronger
@@jasonshumake777 Biscuits absolutely add strength to a joint. Yes, dowels can be stronger than biscuits depending on the stress angles on the joint, but biscuits are not just for alignment. And actually because the slots for biscuits are larger than the biscuit itself, alignment is not perfect. You still must tweak the joint into perfect position during assembly.
@@steadyeddie7453 there are plenty of videos where they test biscuit joints and they are the weakest, with the exception of just butt joint.
Tip since you use it elsewhere - I have discovered that putting a piece of painters tape on my finished piece and then marking layouts on that, instead of the piece (like you did for hinges) is faster than erasing layout lines
What kind of finish did you use? It looks really nice!
Great video! Everything is to the point, I’m a professional carpenter and this is how we do the high end cabinets for those multi million dollar homes, no plywood just hardwood (white oak), what a good job man, keep it up!
Would these pine cabinets be good enough for a kitchen?
@@angellas.1314 yes they are
That shelf pin jig is brilliant. Love the use of the plunge router and collar.
Ever since I got into doing some furniture making, I don’t know why more beginners use pine? It’s cheap, it is soft but cheap! Great way to practice. I love the back panel btw!
Man, Sundays are my favourite. All my woodworking RUclipsrs post videos. Great vid! You are absolutely the best for entertainment and engagement. Love your stuff
First time watching your content. Can’t say I’ll make cabinets this way but I’m blown away with what you can do in a small area. Like wow.
I'm having a really hard time understanding how S4S Pine being around 48 square inches per dollar, that you still have to edge joint, vs over 92 square inches per dollar for nice sanded plywood is better?
It's not.
Have to say, this is the first video I watched from you, and it definitely has the most comedic value than any other woodworking/how-to/DYI/etc. I have watched😄 Also it feels very down to earth type of doing. Very good👍🏼
Thanks for the video!
Is this pine wood treated for repelling termites?
I will never stop using plywood. And I would use it over pine any day of the week because it's stronger, less prone to warping, and I can get a selection of veneers to match the doors and drawer fronts. I prefer oak for doors and drawer fronts for its looks and durability. Pine is too soft to take the abuse of a kitchen cabinet door or drawer front.
Cheers.
Exactly, pine is fucking trash lol. It's soft, fragile, get's scratched or dented easily, doesn't stain or paint well, etc.
Not to mention the ungodley amount of time he's spending!!!
At least look at the price of hard maple. Many times I have been able to save money verses clear pine. It is way more durable and can look amazing.
Home depot stocks various widths of birch at relatively reasonable prices that are really good for small solid cabinet door fronts and for stiles&rails for the larger doors with use of thin plywood sheathing insetted for the panels. I still like pine for cabinet sides, again with plywood sheathing in a rabbet for cabinet backs
The fuck do you guys get this ignorance from? Plywood is never going to be as superior to even cheap garbage solid wood… you’re fucking stupid to think like this!
In my area (Oregon) pine seems to cost as much as oak or maple. The cheap woods are big leaf maple, alder, and poplar. Seems like this would work just fine with any of those woods as well.
Beautiful job Scott!
And always a good thing to see the dowelmax get a workout!
Speaking of which, for future reference, you can you use your dowelmax to make a shelf pin jig and have very accurately spaced holes.
Catch you on the next one!
when you clamp the cauls how do you stop the glue squeezeout gluing the cauls to the panel?
Tape. Line the cauls with clear packing tape. Glue won't stick to it.
I really like the sold wood panels. However how are you leaving room for expansion? Are you leaving space inside the door panels? The end project looks great. Thanks for the video.
Very nice! Great video, concise, many tips and--above all--practical all the way through.
My only gripe is the handles: too modern looking for a traditional/rustic design. I guess, since these are intended for a workshop they may be preferred on reasons of practicality.
One last thing: this was strangely relaxing for carpentry video which are usually very highly strung. I don't know why most carpentry videos are done that way but they definitely don't have to be as this one clearly shows!
First time I have ever seen you and I will be making mine the same way. to copy is flattery, so they say. I don't have space for much wood working and this doesn't require that many.
I really like how you did everything.
But as a youtube commenter I have to pick about the finish. Pine bleeds like crazy so the only thing that will keep these from getting brown orange, is to seal them with shellac, or shellac based primer ("Kilz Original", and some other one I can't pronounce or spell). Do NOT worry and waste your time what it looks like, just be sure to cover it all. Even if you are going to paint these, the sap will bleed right through your paint if not sealed.
You might have used a clear shellac so just to warn others about it. Thanks and subscribed. I was going to ask if you can do the same thing for base cabinets but you just answered that. Thanks again.
Thanks Scott. I wanted to build the jack miter panels since i saw them in your miter table build. I didn't see much of a description in that vid and i didn't even know they were called jack miters. So i searched around the web and found my way back to this vid. I then scoffed at the dowels until i realized they're an even better idea for the cabinet fronts. Hey, then maybe i'll do the mortise and tenon for cabinet doors after. So, yeah, thanks for doing all trial and er.. more trial. I, too, already had the bead bit. I remember buying it but it was just too large for a picture frame. It'll finally get use for these drawer fronts.
I think all the Canadians are in cahoots on promoting the DowellMax.
Great cabinets, scott! Look great.
A great Australian invention/company :)
Also of the Tim Horton's (which I do order down here in South Carolina).
Loved your mini planer sled trick to remove the cup from your panel. I need to lock that one away in memory for later use. I also really liked what you did with the bead and miter joints on your rails and stiles. Another trick I need to lock away. Thanks.
If you want to try something different, I made drawers (6) by taking a 2x4x8 cutting into the proper lenghts, then cutting them down to 1/2" and using the left over piece for the bottom. Quick and fast and they hold heavy food items, and have for years. I attached them to full pull out drawer guides.
I've actually made drawers like this! Cheapest drawer ever! 😂
18:32 ooooh sliding miter saw! I'm sure you have a build video for that. That looks quite interesting. I have a 5m shed (20ft) and most boards come in 2.4m (8ft) so theoretically if I put it in the middle, I should have room either side for a full length board but with a shelving unit on the right side its not quite as practical. This could be handy. Was it worth the effort over a fixed position table?
EDIT: Ok so I go to check it out and see I have watched it already lol but at least now I remember again
These turned out beautifully! Thank you for sharing.
I find that a curved tip dental syringe is super for dispensing glue precisely and controllably where it is needed in the amount required. It is easy to fill and to cap up with a toothpick after dispensing the glue.... Dental syringes are very inexpensive and can be used disposably when you are not going to use them again for a long time. They are particularly useful for injecting glue under loose portions of veneer when repairing furniture.
I am thinking of putting a finish on some to buy lumber that I'm using to make a bed.And I always wanted to know what different stains would look like.And when you made your cabinet, you put a finish on them.But you didn't say what it was.Any chance of finding that out
Interesting dowel jig. I’m going to look into that. That said, I’ve never understood why people use sooo much glue to fasten boards together. All that squeezeout is just waste, creates extra work to clean up, and creates stain and topcoat issues. Additionally, putting glue on the dowels, which are really just small tenons, creates even more glueing issues. Just put glue in the holes/morteses and the dowels/tenons will force the glue *into* the whole instead of being rubbed *off of* the dowel as it’s inserted into the whole. In 20 years of woodworking I have never had a joint fail with the amount of glue I use. The Rockler silicone glue brush does a perfect job of applying just the amount of glue needed *on one side of the board*. Anyone that’s telling you to apply glue to both boards or so there’s a bunch of squeezeout has a glue sponsorship.
Hey Scott, what color and brand of stain and finish did you use? Great project, it looks awesome.
Glad more people come around to use pine. Esp with lumber prices as they are. Sure you can dent pine with a fingernail, BUT, how often do you run around and try to damage your cabinets? I just made modern style doors out of pine, to freshen up my grandma's old kitchen. Added an off white stain and a small vertical router line. Some modern door handels, a bit of a round over and the kitchen looks as good as new_ish.
Would love to see that.
What is that finish you used?
This looks insane! So much work! If just one person built a machine that can do that instead, all of humanity would take advantage and nobody would ever have to do this manually again.
Finally some dowel love on RUclips. Nice!
4:07 haha, nice one, but won't they bend back when the moisture evaporates? Great video. (19:02 cough cough)
Those cabinets look really nice 👌 seems very approachable for an average person with not too many tools in their arsenal. I like those panels on the inside of the cabinets.
Some may say these are too nice for a workshop; however, I also like having nice-looking cabinets in my work area. So much so that I have had people remark that my workshop looks more and more like a kitchen every time they see it.
Thanks for the video, Scott!
And why not be in a nice environment day in and day out. It sure helps the spirit and mind.
Am I missing something here? From HD: 8" x 3/4" x 96" = $16. 4x8 plywood $30. How is the solid board cheaper? I do have a lot of cabinets to make and really want to know how to save a buck.
$30 is construction grade plywood, it will warp and is full of voids.
Cabinet grade plywood is triple the price.
The thing that you're missing is that you can't find S4S material at HD or cabinet grade plywood. Although 3/4" backing is extremely overbuilt, 1/4" plywood is all that is needed for and you can get beaded plywood for exactly the same "country look".
@@path4061130 a sheet for Baltic birch, IF you can find it, around my way. Ahits wild
Those jack mitres are sweet. Well done, boy!
One issue with pine and spruce however is that it doesn't take stain evenly. I solved this for one project by taking a can of dye based wood stain, and mixing it with equal volume varnish. In my case both were water based. Then applied a zillion coats, very lightly sanding with 600 grit wet sand paper between coats. The win was that with water based stain, I could put a coat on every 30 minutes. Using the paper wet, kept the dust down. Even so, I set up two benches -- one to sand on, and one to stain on.
I know you keep saying they're "just shop cabinets" but so you're aware, I have 50 year old cedar cabinets in my kitchen which I absolutely adore and yours are infinitely better, congrats, subbed
Fantastic! Pre glued pine boards is basically the only readily available lumber where I live, except for construction lumber.
I feel like the dowel jig could have been used for shelf pin holes, though it might have been a little slower. But super precise and it’s nice to get a new use from a tool!
Hang on, I'm gonna replace all my cabinets with plywood just out of spite
VERY nice build and I really like how you did the corners for the doors. I have never seem that method and will try it.
Also like your choices of music!!
I made a pin jig very similar to yours years ago and color coded the corners so I could remember which way it needed to be oriented... For the same reasons you mentioned needing to remember the orientation.
Hey dude, I only discovered your videos a week ago, and I just wanted to say that I love your vibe! You're fun to watch!
What finish was used here? I didn’t see it in the video but it looks great.
I'm actually using pine for a piece of furniture right now. Still cladding it with thin plywood though because it finishes better.
Really nice-looking cabinets. I do not begin to have any of your shop tools, but the video was still fun and instructive. My last project was making a 4 shelf stand for holding my game consoles, CD player and the inevitable clutter with Purple Heartwood.
Well I have to tell you, that I have been doing DIY for years, and watching video's, and I must yours is absolutely brilliant not only the wood working but with a funny side too, you might not think that but I you were great, cant wait to see more of them, and what a bonus, in real wood too yippeee. Keep up the good work, thank you
Just Wow, first of all you make fantastic videos. Just a pleasure to watch. It makes these projects just seem so approachable and fun. Second of all, the Cabinets look fantastic.
The sliding, sliding compound miter saw is just insane.. excellent content sir!
Wanter to ask you wich blade did you buy with your shoulder plane. I see the are 3 available. Which model planer did you use in this video. Ty
I got the PM-V11 blade. I also think O2 is a good choice as well. I'm not a fan of M2 as I think it's a bit of a bear to sharpen.
Absolutely stunning! What kind of finish are you using? :) Cheers from the cold north Denmark!
The video is very interesting. Nice cabinets.
Must be hard to work with the ceiling so low and those dark green walls, so dark in there. If the walls were whitish or beige or something...
finishing the inside of the cabinets is actually a good idea even though its a shop piece.. if you finish the outside and not the inside is possible to get massive cupping or twisting due to different moisture absorption rates.
would screws and glue be strong enough if I can't do dowels?
Can we just appreciate how you casually use a crosscut sled with the workpiece and fence on the front of the sled 👏🏽 I’ll assume this is for cutting wider boards without have to have a sled you need a forklift to move. Bravo and thanks for adding to my repertoire of jigs. PS. Not finsh vid yet, just had to mention before I forget 😂
Solid is cheaper than ply now? What a weird world. I like to use French cleats to install stuff like this -- no helper stand needed, and you get the leveling out of the way before the cabinet's even on the wall.
I can buy rough cut lumber half the price of plywood and all it needs it ran though the jointer and planer and it’s some of the best wood you can buy. Plywood is straight trash for everything it being cheap and fast.
Remember: clamping with too much pressure will cause cupping. Use a ruler to check if there's bowing. If there is, reduce pressure on the clamps until it goes away
Great job. Now how much did you save as opposed to using plywood ? Don't get me wrong I love the look over plywood just curious
Your photography is amazing. A work of art. Great cabinet. Love it about the pine.
Dude! You're on your way to a million subscribers. Keep up the good work.
Fabulous work. The cabinets are better made and look good enough for kitchen cabinets. Nothing like solid wood construction.
After you put 4 panels together to form a box shape, do you need to make sure all inside angles are right angles? If the box shear a little bit, two angles will be more than 90 degrees and two would be less.
You measure opposite corners of the box to verify they are the same in order to check for the squareness of the box. It's like comparing the hypotenuse of two right triangles
Where do you go to buy pre-milled pine?
Hey Scott, what type of scribe did you use on your miter saw station build?
That "lazy planer sled" tip is golden. Instant Like for it.
Are you a brand ambassador for King Canada? Lotsa King stuff you have there. It's so refreshing to see a maker who doesn't have a Sawstop. 👍
I'd be afraid to use solid wood for cabinet carcasses because of potential warping if the space it occupies has big humidity swings. A hot/humid summer day where a window is left open or a water leak when no one is home for a while could wreak havoc on wood furniture. Plywood is much less prone to warping, although all wood will warp if wet long enough. I veneer plywood for cabinet exposed sides, which is usually cheaper than something like solid 4/4 walnut of rift white oak. Baltic birch is usually the flatest and strongest plywood and I use that on entertainment centers or furniture sides anything larger than 24" x 24". Solid wood also requires time (a few days to weeks) to allow the wood to acclimate to the room it's in after a few passes through a planer before the final planed surface is done. Extra jointing may be required for flatness if the planed wood moves and you may lose the final thickness target if jointing needs to be done, which is a waste of nice material. That's not required for plywood.
If solid wood is used, it's important to seal all sides to keep warping from happening under normal conditions. I learned that the hard way when my 96" x 36" butcher block work bench top turned into a potato chip that I needed to replace because I finished the top but left the underside raw. My shop's humidity has swings. A warped table top makes using it as an assembly surface almost impossible.
Love your 'panel cutter'. A good upgrade on Norm's original which I have to replace after 15 years of service.
Looks like you spent a few hours to find those boards that did have many knots or cupping in them. Best option I found is to use solid pine for the draw sides, and good plywood for the draw bottoms & cabinet carcass. Other wise you spend hours & hours search for quality pine board, unless your willing to spend $50+ on a good premium Pine board imported from Chile, NZ, etc.
What I really wish a US plywood mfg. would make plywood with solid pine boards glued together with a top & bottom plywood veneer so there is some solid wood for screws. This is available overseas, just not in the US (at least not any lumber retailer I've visited).
So when do you apply the melamine? nyuk
What router table and fence are you using?
It's the JessEm Master setup
Sawdust does not appear in this shop until 4:20 in the video. How does he do it? 🙂
I'm fairly new to doing woodworking stuff and I was thinking about using plywood to make a cubby style bookshelf. Is that a bad idea as well? If so, any suggestion on which type of wood to make it instead? Thinking about making my own, bc most pre-made ones are only 12" deep and I need something 15-16" deep... I've been trying to find woodworking content creators who have done something similar, but haven't been able to find a video specific to what I want to make... :(
For anyone who wanted to know. The "shoulder plane" referenced at 26:09 is a Veritas Large Shoulder Plane and sells for $290.00
Oh cool, all I need is a jointer and I don’t need to buy plywood anymore! 😂
How are the back panels supposed to expand for wood movement if you glued and pinned them.
Could you describe which planes you used on this project please? I'm a complete newbie and interested in which hand planes I need to begin making tighter fitting joinery.
He used a Stanley #4 (commonly called a smoothing plane) when cleaning up the glue joints, and tbh I was only listening to most of the video so I didn't notice if he used anything else. I'll probably watch it again as I'm moving shop spaces and may put cabinets up, but if I see anything else I'll follow up.
You could do most of the work you'd need to start with a #4, a #4 1/2 (almost the same size but with a wider sole and iron/blade) or a #5 (also called a jack plane, it's wider and longer than the #4). Rex Krueger has a great video about buying old planes online and how to find the "less desirable" but still well functioning pieces from certain eras. Fair warning: you may have to flatten the sole, sharpen the iron, better fit the chip breaker etc but there are hundreds of videos about how to tune up handplanes on RUclips (Rex, James Wright of Wood by Wright, Paul Sellers, Nick Engler of Woodshop Companion and many others are all excellent resources).
I would recommend buying whichever you can afford between a 4 and a 5, or both if you can afford them; you can always buy the other one later. Once you're more accustomed to hand tool work you can decide on getting bigger jointing planes, rabbeting planes, moulding planes etc, but don't worry about those yet.
Thank you very much! This points me to a good starting point.@@wyssmaster
Watching a bit further, he also used a block plane and a shoulder plane. You can find pretty decent and inexpensive versions of these from taytools, but there are plenty of old block planes available on eBay and wherever (tbh you could just use the #4 for anything he did with the block plane).
If you can't afford a shoulder plane right now you could make Paul Sellers' poor man's router plane out of a chisel and a block of wood, then just keep pressure on your reference surface to flatten any rabbets or dadoes
First video of yours I have seen, subscribed. Love the detailed step by step instructions and craftmanship