Excellent. Because you never want to rest your kayak, especially the fiberglass ones, on the bottom. Because of the rocker, the ends of the boat are heavier than you think and it cause stress fractures and breaks down the strength of the kayak. And composites will warp.
Loved your video. I made a rack for three kayaks which sit up side down on it. That is exactly for what you mention; to avoid any possible deformation of the hull. Cheers!
Good point about straps conforming and placing more even support/pressure. I just one, a 14 footer. She is stored on two J hooks under the bulkheads, but I have three wide straps as well to help stabilize and make sure that no more than 10 lbs is resting on any one point. Not only do straps conform to the shape of the boat, but especially if you get them wide, you are looking at the weight being spread over dozens of square inches of hull, instead just the few sq. inches for hard racks. My brother stopped using his kayak, but since it was stored with wide straps under the bulkheads, even after years of storage without rotation, there was no deformation.
Would love to see a clip about the pro/con of removing foot braces and using a block of closed cell foam. What to consider, how to shape to match contours of the boat, remove rails or not? Thx.
+1 on using straps. I can’t concur on the use of pool noodles, though. They settle pretty fast, end then you have the boat on a hard edge. Ask me how I know!
Your wall rack is great, I have one similar but rather than bolted to the wall it has legs at the bottom at a 45 deg angle and it simply leans against the wall, the legs and weight of the kayaks force it against the wall. Now, if you want to solve the pressure point issue you have, where the support arms are not lined up with your bulkheads, here is what I would do. Get a 2x4 at least long enough to span the distance between the two main bulkheads (or the distance between your two uprights, whichever is longer). Bolt it (horizontally) to the uprights you already have against the wall. To this new cross beam 2x4 (you can use a 2x6 as well) you can screw in large hooks that are spaced out to equal the distance between the bulks heads in your kayak. Now, get some 2-3" wide strapping and cut two pieces to length so that you can make a sling that you slide your kayak into. One end of each sling can be knotted and tied to the hook, but the other end should have a small hook attached so that it can be easily hooked and unhooked. When you want to store your kayak, simply unhook one end of each sling, place the kayak on the support arms you already have in place then grab one sling at a time and pull it up and hook it. Obviously you want the strap to be the proper length so that it actually lifts the kayak off of the wooden support arms and it is supported only by the straps. When you want to take your kayak out, it is a simple job to just unhook one strap at a time and gently lower the kayak onto the support arms. Then once the straps are out of the way, lift the kayak off the support arms and you are on your way. A simple, one person operation both storing and removing the kayak. Let me know if you try this and how it works out for you.
I've stored my perception 10-ft rec. Kayak on the point of its Stern for about 20 years. It points up and leans slightly up against something. Seems to be holding up fine.. no visual distortion.
Just wondering where you heard that storing the kayak on its side is best. Everybody from REI to Old Town to Jackson kayak says it's best to store them hull side up (and on the side, or hull down is bad. Been researching this lately as I'm building a rack myself and came across your video.
Sure, this is from hearing countless instructors, outfitters and boat builders - but it’s not so much about the side. It’s about finding structurally strong points that will support the kayak without deformation. Different shapes, different materials and builds, means there’s not a one single way to do it. For many recreational and sea kayaks, as I mention on the video, if you find the bulkheads or areas of strength, those will be good places to rest on without deformation. I completely agree on resting upside down as well if you’re using strong points. Usually people try to save space as well, so if you need more space, on their sides and under bulkheads is a good general rule to watch out for. Cheers!
Muy bueno, yo los tengovcolgados de la pared con cinta tipo cinturon de seguridad con una hebilla, lo coloco de lado, copia perfecta la forma, es muy economico y solo lleva un tornillo a la pared. Saludos desde Argentina.
As usual, opinions are all over the place. Just prior to this video I watch one by the canoe & kayak make Old Town. They recommend not storing a kayak on the side. 🤣 Not saying anyone is right/wrong just shows how a viewer has a 50/50 shot of doing it right without watching a video. 🤣
My yard is too small to keep my kayaks flat so I hang them from their stern handles with their prows resting on a foam pad on the ground and exposed to the weather in the UK. They are in partial shade. Both are made of High-density polyethylene and are fitted with cockpit covers. So far I've had no problems over six years. It's not ideal I know as degradation from UV light and extremely hot weather might shorten their lives or distort their hulls. For paddlers with limited space this is one solution in the short to medium term, at least in temperate climates.
That's great....for the first six kayaks. Gets a bit more challenging after that.
Thanks for sharing buddy 👍👍👍
Thank you for the great ideas! Am doing this as soon as I return from vacation. 😷
Excellent. Because you never want to rest your kayak, especially the fiberglass ones, on the bottom. Because of the rocker, the ends of the boat are heavier than you think and it cause stress fractures and breaks down the strength of the kayak. And composites will warp.
Loved your video. I made a rack for three kayaks which sit up side down on it. That is exactly for what you mention; to avoid any possible deformation of the hull. Cheers!
Always good info on this channel. Keep it coming.
Good point about straps conforming and placing more even support/pressure. I just one, a 14 footer. She is stored on two J hooks under the bulkheads, but I have three wide straps as well to help stabilize and make sure that no more than 10 lbs is resting on any one point. Not only do straps conform to the shape of the boat, but especially if you get them wide, you are looking at the weight being spread over dozens of square inches of hull, instead just the few sq. inches for hard racks. My brother stopped using his kayak, but since it was stored with wide straps under the bulkheads, even after years of storage without rotation, there was no deformation.
Would love to see a clip about the pro/con of removing foot braces and using a block of closed cell foam. What to consider, how to shape to match contours of the boat, remove rails or not? Thx.
HIPSTER! Thanks for the vid bro!
+1 on using straps. I can’t concur on the use of pool noodles, though. They settle pretty fast, end then you have the boat on a hard edge. Ask me how I know!
Very helpful! Thanks!
Your wall rack is great, I have one similar but rather than bolted to the wall it has legs at the bottom at a 45 deg angle and it simply leans against the wall, the legs and weight of the kayaks force it against the wall.
Now, if you want to solve the pressure point issue you have, where the support arms are not lined up with your bulkheads, here is what I would do. Get a 2x4 at least long enough to span the distance between the two main bulkheads (or the distance between your two uprights, whichever is longer). Bolt it (horizontally) to the uprights you already have against the wall. To this new cross beam 2x4 (you can use a 2x6 as well) you can screw in large hooks that are spaced out to equal the distance between the bulks heads in your kayak. Now, get some 2-3" wide strapping and cut two pieces to length so that you can make a sling that you slide your kayak into. One end of each sling can be knotted and tied to the hook, but the other end should have a small hook attached so that it can be easily hooked and unhooked. When you want to store your kayak, simply unhook one end of each sling, place the kayak on the support arms you already have in place then grab one sling at a time and pull it up and hook it. Obviously you want the strap to be the proper length so that it actually lifts the kayak off of the wooden support arms and it is supported only by the straps. When you want to take your kayak out, it is a simple job to just unhook one strap at a time and gently lower the kayak onto the support arms. Then once the straps are out of the way, lift the kayak off the support arms and you are on your way. A simple, one person operation both storing and removing the kayak.
Let me know if you try this and how it works out for you.
I've stored my perception 10-ft rec. Kayak on the point of its Stern for about 20 years. It points up and leans slightly up against something. Seems to be holding up fine.. no visual distortion.
Have made alot of use hanging kayaks with the wide velcro staps you end up with if ever you' ve ordered a memory foam mattress from ikea
Just wondering where you heard that storing the kayak on its side is best. Everybody from REI to Old Town to Jackson kayak says it's best to store them hull side up (and on the side, or hull down is bad. Been researching this lately as I'm building a rack myself and came across your video.
Sure, this is from hearing countless instructors, outfitters and boat builders - but it’s not so much about the side. It’s about finding structurally strong points that will support the kayak without deformation. Different shapes, different materials and builds, means there’s not a one single way to do it. For many recreational and sea kayaks, as I mention on the video, if you find the bulkheads or areas of strength, those will be good places to rest on without deformation. I completely agree on resting upside down as well if you’re using strong points. Usually people try to save space as well, so if you need more space, on their sides and under bulkheads is a good general rule to watch out for. Cheers!
What kind of kayak is the front khaki one?
Muy bueno, yo los tengovcolgados de la pared con cinta tipo cinturon de seguridad con una hebilla, lo coloco de lado, copia perfecta la forma, es muy economico y solo lleva un tornillo a la pared. Saludos desde Argentina.
As usual, opinions are all over the place.
Just prior to this video I watch one by the canoe & kayak make Old Town.
They recommend not storing a kayak on the side. 🤣
Not saying anyone is right/wrong just shows how a viewer has a 50/50 shot of doing it right without watching a video. 🤣
My yard is too small to keep my kayaks flat so I hang them from their stern handles with their prows resting on a foam pad on the ground and exposed to the weather in the UK. They are in partial shade. Both are made of High-density polyethylene and are fitted with cockpit covers. So far I've had no problems over six years. It's not ideal I know as degradation from UV light and extremely hot weather might shorten their lives or distort their hulls. For paddlers with limited space this is one solution in the short to medium term, at least in temperate climates.
If the bottom of the kayak has "tin canning" how do you get that out?
First! 😆
Haha
Second lol
En español por favor, no hablo otro idioma