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Tipsblitz19: Drilling spring steel with HSS drills
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
- A simple way to drill springsteel with a HSS drill, which is otherwise very tough to drill.
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Fantastic. All my drills went dull in the drawer just watching that.
great tip! now if only you had a tool to deburr those holes.
You just have to wait for Tipsblitz20, Tony.
TOT makes one from a file on his channel.
Ow you sneaky TOT..
It would probably need a sub-scribe tool. Any ideas ToT?
Knew I would see you here
Stefan, my personal trick for drilling thin spring steel (no more 1/32" or 0.80mm) is to spot anneal the drill site. I do this with friction heating. I grip a wood dowel in the drill chuck, max the spindle RPM, and intermittantly force the wood dowel firmly into the work hard enough to make smoke. Stop when you see a blue spot spreading from the friction. Then swap to the drill and make your hole at normal drilling speed. This might work on thicker material but I haven't tried it. Metal backup will suck the heat away: you might want to use wood after all.
Don't over-feed. You don't want red heat - just enough temperature rise to draw the spring temper into machinability.
You might also "bsck off" the 25 degree positive rake at the cutting edge to neutral as you do for drilling cast bronze.
Poo lo
Seems a very good method, I will try next time I need! As you mention, it will probably not work that well in thicker material (because the more heat dissipation?). Couldn't that be solved by using an aluminum (or other material) dowel? It would give a much higher friction (= more heat) than wood on steel?
sometimes the best solution is low tech!
great idea, thanks for sharing!
Stefan, love your videos, can i add a tip I have learnt from my years in the workshop and driiling hard steels with HSS drills. If you take your sarpened drill to the diamond lap on your tool grinder as you did to split the point but instead of splitting the point you grind the cutting face true to the axis of the drill bit ( in effect reducing the positive rake of the cutting edge to a neutral rake) this presents a very strong edge to the hard material you are cutting that will not dull easily. Drill at slow speed and with a high sulphur cutting oil if you have it and the drill will slide through even very hard steels..(I have drilled holes in ball bearing cages and files using this technique) Thanks again for your fantistic and informative videos..you have taught me several things :)
Ordinary spring steel sure is a pain, but if you can find some Bruce spring steel, that stuff was Born To Run. It's used in band saw bands, automatic transmission bands and E Street bands. Just be careful with polished Bruce spring steel when you're out in the sun so you don't get Blinded By The Light. A lot of the Bruce spring steel that's on the market today was Born in the USA, but sometimes makes it overseas.
You do realise that this many Dad joke in a row is a Federal offence.
Als Holzwerker, der nur sehr selten mit Metall zu tun hat, ist man für solche Tips besonders dankbar. Vielen Dank!
I'm impressed. And also educated. That is a tip I can use.
Great tip Stefan thanks for taking the time to share it with us.
Play Safe From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.
Brilliant tip on 2 accounts - slow speed drilling not high speed and a simple but functional method of grinding a drill tip to the correct angle / shape
Very helpful. Thank you. I feel inspired to learn how to thin the web.
Thanks Stefan, great video, hope I remember this when I need it.
Go slow and go hard, got it! Same goes for work hardening materials. Working with prehardened materials presents all kinds of challenges. I enjoyed the tip and it was fun being a part of #tipsblitz19
YES, many decades ago, I use to machine m42 HSS counterbore blanks w/ HSS drills and hog mills...S>L>O>W cutting speed does the trick, and we were paid by the hour lol! Never get a way with that in today's job matrix lol!
Every video from you, and one lesson for me.
"Don't worry and Keep Turning"
30 + years of using shop tools and fabricating personal projects,
yet I learned about 6 things in this video, in ten minutes, methods
that I can use.
Excellent tips Stefan, thank you for sharing this with us all. Best Regards Sarah
Great tip Stefan, learning to grind a drill is like teaching a hungry man to fish. The act is simple once it is learned, and once you learn how to grind a drill, it is faster to re sharpen than to go get a new bit. Cheers and thanks!
This is exactly what I was looking for! And the bit-sharpening tutorial was a bonus. Thanks!
Thanks, Stefan. Got notifications from a bunch of RUclipsrs including you at the same time :-)
Outstanding Stephan. I have enjoyed yours and all the rest of the participants post .
Thanks for sharing Stefan👌👍
Steve, where's your tipblitz video? I'm sure you have some, considering I'm pretty sure I've watched every video on your channel.
@@IBWatchinUrVids Its on my channel.
some input from a oldtimer. A long time ago we used stone or concrete drill bits, gave them an edge on the grinder and that way one could drill a hole in hardened steel! Using your DIY drillbits, anyone can still do this today.
Thanks for sharing Stefan, a lot of us don't have a lot of carbide drills so ideas like these help. Thanks for demonstrating!
Good Video Stef, that old trick is well explained by you. I like to use my Black Smelly Smoky Cutting Fluid to give more life to the drill, web thinning is a great way of helping push through. slow speed drilling like that is really good in stainless steel as well. Cheers Bruce.
Good stuff Stefan! I have found the straight flute carbide drills for hard drilling work really well also.
ATB, Robin
As it happens, just yesterday I drilled through spring steel to fix a pair of my son's headphones. My drilling was much more like the first hole you tested; even with the cobalt HSS bit I used, it certainly needed the regrind I gave it. Now I see how to do it! Much obliged. :-)
A+ as always
Excellent stuff, thanks Stefan. I will make use of this tip for sure.
Very nice tip Stefan, excellent demo. Thank you
Great! New video from S.G. is a perfect way to start Sunday 😊 thanks for sharing your knowledge and tips, really curious what will you show us next time!
nice tip reminds me of the old hand cranked cole drill. you could drill thru just about anything with that machine using hss
Thank you Stefan! Really useful info on the low rpm thing. Best wishes from Orlando, Florida.
This was an informative video for dealing with a fairly common problem. Thanks.
Stefan, thank you. excellent tip for clockmakers.
That’s super useful. Especially the technique for sharpening.
Thanks for being part of #tipsblitz19
Great tip. I find an angle of 130 to 135 better for hard and tough materials. Thanks Stefan.
Yet again, I have leant something. Thanks, Stefan
Very good. I need to practice freehand grinding, and keep coming back to review this.
Wow! Makes me want to get out some spring steel and try it!
Excellent tip. Thanks Stefan.
That answers questions I've had for a long time. Thank you.
Thanks I have to drill and then tap 15n20. And it has been a problem. Was going to try cobalt and if no luck carbide. But I will also het some hss drills
Excellent, back up in steel is new to me 👍.
thank you stefan prima
Nice tip, thanks. I'll have to keep this in mind.
Intersesting topic. Gotta give you some positive feedback as Well. Your content is always awesome, video quality is also very Nice. Your videos do however have a much better lighting than many Other Chanels on these topics. So great work on that especially. Just wanted to say that.
I drilled a quarter inch (6mm?) hole through a piece of hardened carbon steel(I think it was similar to 440C steel used in knives) with a masonry bit ground to have sharp cutting edges, I believe it was near neutral, just a few degrees positive. The carbide broke on exiting the material, as I didn't have a backer (was using drill press). It was working really well until it broke through and one cutting came off. If you need the bit for more than one hole, I'd suggest a piece of mild steel as a backer, maybe even something harder, so the bit doesn't break when it exits the work piece.
What a difference the split point makes :) Useful tip Stefan.
This tip is certainly not pointless, although it is a split point.
awesome video. Thank you Stefan.
Good tip.
I'm watching this via the internet, and I still felt the need for safety goggles at 4:47.
There is nothing preventing us from wearing safety glasses when watching these videos. Better safe than sorry.
Reminds me of drilling hardened tool steel at my old job, but HSS wouldn't touch it. Solid carbide drill worked, but would usually break under the force required to cut the steel. A sharpened masonry drill was the way to go because the shank could take slight flex and wouldn't snap. Also pilot holes, pilot holes, pilot holes and lots of coolant.
@@MatthewMelson I worked with wire EDM! And drilling into hardened steel was usually to correct some mistake or drill a starting hole when someone forgot to put it in before hardening, so usually done on a Bridgeport style mill by hand ;)
G’day Stefan great tip and excellent presentation. Thanks
Peter
Great tip Stefan. I do use the masonry bits on hard materials and have had good success but they need to be ground just right. Your tip is brilliant and I'll certainly lock it away in the brain box for latter. I notice you don't use coolant, I'm assuming its for the same reason I don't use coolant for drilling or machining hardend materials as it reduces the friction and the tool just rubs instead of cutting.
Cam
Great tip Stefan, thank you!
Learned 2 fantastic things today as a 57 years old mechanic. Thanks!!! Is there also tricks for easier drilling stainless steel?
Brilliant. Thanks for this.
Using a center drill it works nice. I think center drill has a harder hss. It never failed. Just regrind the tip. And of course using small rpm
I didn't even know that I could re sharpen my hss bits...lol,
THANKS!!
Thank you, Stefan!
Cool and helpful tips!
Cheers mate
I suspect the reason for the slow speed and heavy pressure might be the limited number of rotations of the cutting edge before it is dull. Let's say as an example, the cutting edge is good for 100 laps before it is dull. At 100 rpm, one could drill for a minute before the bit is dull. On the other hand, at 1000rpm, one could only drill for 0,1 minutes or 6 seconds before the bit is dull. I could be entirely wrong but it makes sense to me.
When you sharpen the drill then use an oil stone to make the edges razor sharp and use some oil for lube. You can buy a split point 135 degree cobalt hss drill too. 118 degree is standard and 135 is for hard materials.
another great video
thanks
Nice chips with the split point. Good tip Stefan
Great tip
It was instructive to show the improvement as each technique was added. It would not be nearly as clear if you just showed the narrow web bit at slow speed. Certainly more work for you, though, so thanks for the excellent tip.
Very good tip! Always assumed that you needed carbide for drilling, but know better now.
Great tip Stefan!
Great information! Spring steel is tough and stocking carbide drill bits in every size would cost an arm and leg. 👍
Nice tip. I would never have expected your solution. I put this trick in my bag. Viele Danke (sp?).
I learned something. Thank you.
A drill tip 'tip' - very good pun Stefan! BobUK.
Thank you.
Amazing tips and video
thank you very much a tip i can certainly use
Great tips 👍Thank You.
brilliant Stefan 👌
Thank you! Great video...
👍👍
Great tip, Stefan. I'm not telling you how many drill bits i killed in hard steel.
very good info , thanks
AWESOME. . . thanks!
Very good tip to know.👍
Change the tip angle from 118 Degree to150 Degree. For harder materials.
watching yours first!!
and.... I learnt stuff. thanks Stefan
Okay? I have a ancient Cub Cadet riding mower I used to have to make custom blade sets for out of old vehicle leaf springs. Just hydraulic pressed them flat then drilled them slow with normal HHS bits and never had a problem.
Very well explained
Good tip, thanks
thanks for the tip of course, very helpful as all your videos are but one question: you didn't use cutting oil...why not?
Great info/tip
Great video Stefan. I assume these tips would also apply with Cobalt bits (just giving more life between grinds.)
Try using turpentine for coolant . Very good tip also Thanks for sharing
Ever try precision thermite?
Thanks Stephan, can you do a video on the vice used in this video? Happy Trails, Doug
When you sharpened the drill bit were you just guessing the angles so to speak?
Thanks for the tip! Next week is the EMO in Hannover, do you plan to visit it as well? I'm definately looking forward to it!
In any material, is there a real lower cutting speed limit as long as your tool is hard enough and your setup rigid enough?
great tip, what model and band is the vise that you use on your mill, i apologize if you already have that info in some of your videos
Slow and with a lot of force. Hmm I have a drill press for that. >:) I've had good success with masonry drills for hss drilling. Usually only one or two holes, but that's enough.
Me to, also drilled hardened dowel pins, they make great tools for pressing bearings ect.