How to Seal and Waterproof Your Basement
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2017
- Now that I have torn this entire place apart it is time to make sure no more water gets in!
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Thank you for continuing to share your projects
...I am laying 3/4 inch wood floors (will share my success once it's finish....) I feel much confident because of you and your family 😀
Hi, My wife T and I, we're waiting for you to seal the basement water problem, it was a lot of work, but, as always you did an excellent job, we'll be watching to see to basement finish with all the furnishings in place. Thanks for sharing.Blessings! !!!!!!!
Wow! You really are the hardest working Dad on RUclips. Great job!
Spartan fan!!! Thanks for the vid! Ex MSU campus employee!
DRYLOK is very good stuff for that situation. I had a similar damp basement and three coats of DRYLOK plus my dehumidifier worked great. I am always amazed at the shortcuts people take when building a house or adding a room. They just don't think!! Your basement should have been sealed on the exterior AND interior. Good job buddy! Thumbs up
Mike Wilhelmson thanks, you just helped me reach a final decision...since my dehumidifier has been running, my walkout basement humidity stays around 34-40%...it also maintains around 73 degrees with just the block wall...i want to finish it but keep getting g conflicting info about moisture barriers...any advice? lol
Perfect timing. We just built a new house and I have a little guitar room in the basement. I was considering what to do with the floor. Thanks for video/advice!
While DryLock can do a good job for the money on walls it's not great on floors. Even using an epoxy paint on top won't work as the Drylock will chip off. Drylock will crack as well and will need recoating to maintain a seal. For serious moisture issues I would use a
penetrating sealer like Radon Seal ... not cheap but works great, and then an Epoxy sealer/paint to walk on.
Great job, Todd as usual, Paulette and Marc
thanks guys! Hope all is well down there on your little homestead!
Great video! Can this product be used outdoors? Thanks for sharing.
Ty for mentioning using a roller. Many only use a brush for drylok. Thanks for sharing
Really liked your video. Wondering if you have any exterior drainage system around your house at all, any any exterior vapour barrier? Thank you.
Literally laying in bed thinking of updating my basement. It’s never been waterproofed and has a really ingot blue type paint on the brick. I’m a woman and will be working alone but I’m excited to do this. You made it look so easy.
The blue paint is dryloc
u got guts.
Thanks for this video. After a deep cleaning, my basement is getting this stuff put on.
Thank you for this! I need to seal the floor in my son's bedroom in the basement. Now I know what to do!
I used regular drylok on my walls and they held great for a year then the basement started getting moisture again. The only product that worked for me was Radon seal plus.
Did you use a primer first like... Bostik moisture seal?
None of these products can withstand hydrostatic pressure, if there is any water intrusion issue at all, it will fail 100% of the time, it doesn't matter what product you use or how many coats.
On a block wall you need to waterproof the outside of the foundation or install a drain tile system.
Hey, bud, hate to burst your bubble, but that expanding foam will not stop any mice from getting in. They can and will chew right through that stuff and will get back into your house. I had a major mouse problem in my basement. Mice are attracted to heat and warmth, so any tiny little crack that lets warm air to leak out will attract a hole-chewing mouse. What you needed to do was nail or staple either stainless steel mesh or galvanized steel sheet, or even aluminum sheet, over those cracks and holes BEFORE you applied the expanding spray foam. That way, when the mice hit that steel mesh, they can’t chew through it. Once I did that, not a single mouse has gotten into my house the past three years.
Thank you! This was so helpful.
Great trick with the trash bag. Looks like great progress on this room. Thanks for sharing :)
Hello there, how much did it cost you to seal floor and basewall? Was it just the inside wall of the basement enough to be sealed? Do you recommend a specific brand to seal basewall and floor? Thanks
Great video. Hope it works.
Thanks for sharing the video. Drylok is great stuff but I really want to know if you gave the mouse a funeral haha
Let's say your floor is not leveled, can I add float after using this product on the floors. Or should I level with float before applying dryloc ?
My dad used something like that back in the 60's in our Michigan basement. Slowed it down for a couple of years and then like it was never there. This stuff should last and work much better though.
Just visited a local home center today and looked at DryLok Clear. A very knowledgeable gentleman helped me. He explained that DryLok products do not penetrate into concrete, they only coat them so are not an effective long-term option. It was recommended that a penetrating sealer be used instead. When I search "penetrating sealers" on the internet, one particular brand keeps showing up and has some very good results according to reviews. It is a RadonSeal brand product. Thinking my household needs to go with the Plus version since our home is older. I'm looking at reviews on different penetrating sealers now.
Hey cool - I just did the same thing in our basement - cool stuff
So what was the final results? Did the drylok fix the issue you were having?
GREAT JOB LOVE THE VIDEO KEEP UP THE WONDERFUL WORK
Do u think years later that flex seal would have done better, I have a similar problem now??? Also did this help?
Good job!
nice job... BUT... did you seal under/behind the wood frame work anywhere...?... what will happen over time moisture will rise into the wood and cause rot no?
What did use use between your bottom sill and the wall to see you late from water leakage
Just visited a local home center today and looked at DryLok Clear. A very knowledgeable gentleman helped me. He explained that DryLok products do not penetrate into concrete, they only coat them so are not an effective long-term option. It was recommended that a penetrating sealer be used instead.
What if there is water flowing on the floor from hydrostatic pressure from a high water table ? Can the poduct be applied in water like hydrosetting cement ?
Would it be just as, if not more efficient to use epoxy paint instead of dry lock latex paint?
You made this video three years ago. Can you please tell how it is holding since then (both walls and basement floor). Was there any seepage after installation. Thanks
It has been working very well, no moisture coming in through walls or floor
Did you do something else to the floor after the drylock? I also live in Michigan and wanted to drylock my floor. Walls are already done. Drylock DOESN'T recommend this for floors. Just curious
Because I used it under lifeproof flooring it was fine. It is not recommended for floors as a final coating as it scraps off with foot traffic
SSLFamilyDad Thanks for the reply. That's the info I was looking for. I want to paint with is before I put flooring down.
Is it true they charge thousands of dollars to do this?!? I'm buying a house with a basement with that problem in upstate NY I'm thinking I can just do this myself now thank you so much!!!
The method in the video will not work, the product cannot withstand hydrostatic pressure and will be a temporary repair that will fail if there is anything more than a minor moisture issue.
However, if your foundation home has poured concrete walls (the floor will be poured concrete), you can fix the issue yourself by injecting either epoxy or polyurethane into the cracks.
The products are available on Amazon. Follow the instructions 100% (even the parts that seem to not make sense) and you will have a permanent fix and save yourself thousands.
I've flipped over 500 homes and have learned the hard (and expensive) way what works and what doesn't. When I have a crew finish a basement, I don't want water intrusion to ruin the work, I don't want a buyer to have a water intrusion in their new home, I want a permanent, reliable solution.
However, if the foundation is stacked stone or concrete block, the injection method won't work, so don't even attempt it, with concrete block, you will need a drain tile system because they are hollow and porous so water will find its way inside, which will slowly ruin the block.
Hey appreciate the video! Where do you think this product (UGL Drylok that you used) compares to these two other products: RadonSeal Deep Penetrating Concrete Sealer.....OR Lithi-Tek 9500 - Ghostshield 1 Gal. Invisible Penetrating Concrete Sealer, Waterproofer Plus Densifier?
Have you heard anything about the latter two products or have an opinion? My basement flooded so bad I had 3 to 4 inches of water
I don't know much about the other two products but these are to prevent moisture from.weeping through the concrete not flooding. Sounds like you need to address another issue first
Was there enough space between the cinder block and you 2x4 studs to get a brush back there?
not really but I did try to slop some in there as best as I could
Thinking about finishing my basement and will have to do this. How is it holding up after 2 years?
Still working great
Doesn't the concrete have to dry out? It seems like sealing it on five sides (top + four sides) would leave no pathway for moisture to escape. Wouldn't this result in permanently wet concrete except in extremely dry weather and lead to corroding the integrity of the concrete?
how has the DryLok been working for you?
When you start your garden projects, you might inadvertently remove dirt that help keep the moisture out to seep inside. We didn't know, so we had to seal the expose area. Interior and exterior.
Thanks for the video! I have a lot of moisture arise from the slab in my garage. Do you think this will do the trick for the garage?
+Maria Loredo I wpuld recommend that garage floor epoxy coating for that
Noticed that you didn't etch before applying the Drylock. First thing the B-Dry guy told me was to etch (muriatic acid...Drylock also has an etching product) first.
Do you have a french drain in your basement?
whats the air like? Is it hard to breath?
3:55 Spider escapes the vacuum turmoil.
If anyone knows what’s wrong it would be appreciated. Bought a small cottage on Long Island turned the basement into our bedroom. Was a newly flipped house with a new concrete block basement and spray foam head to toe so I don’t know what’s on the other side. Currently I have it framed and a dehumidifier running at 50% but most nights we wake up thirsty. Ductless mini split is heat/ac and I’ve noticed this problem for both seasons some nights worst then others anyone know the causes?
Will DryLoc seal any odors in the concrete?
Hope it keeps the space dry for you
Thank you for the video. Can you please provide an update on how well the drylock worked? I live in the Northeast and my basement is also damp and moist. I am thinking of using the Drylock paint for my walls. Has this solution help up over time? Thank you.
yes, it has prevented moisture however it is still moist down there in summer as it is cooler and the cold surfaces will also condensate. We run a dehumidifier to solve that issue
What about the open concrete under the studs? Can't the water come in there?
yes, and no, the bottom of those walls are treated wood so it won't rot at least. As far as I can tell the walls were put in with the floor or are semi cemented in so unfortunately there was not much I could do for that issue. I will be putting a coat of dryloc over all the wood on the bottom of those walls now that I know I have enough.
How has this held up?
Creepy crawler at 03:53 left bottom side
wow, good eye! I didn't catch that during the fifty times I watched it while editing! lol
I was just checking to see if anyone else had noticed it. It was huge.
It scared me! 😩😩😩
Does this solve the leaking issue? How long it lasts?
Might an epoxy layer like Liquidam EZ serve better - especially for someone who may have puddling water during a significant rainfall? Instead of what appears to be essentially a latex-based paint? I’ve been watching a bunch of different videos, as I’m going through the this problem, and trying to ascertain what would be the best solution for me. The Liquidam EZ doesn’t seem to be much more expensive. Honest thoughts?
Also, what did you end up finishing the floor with? Did it successfully adhere to the paint, and did it (or do you think that it has the capacity to) compromise the integrity of the paint?
Thanks so much for the great videos! Protect those tootsies with some shoes!! 🙃
I can't really speak to the other product since I have not used it. This will keep moisture out up to a certain pressure. If you have more than just moisture you may have other outside issues that need to be addressed. We used lifeproof flooring and it is working great so far!
SSLFamilyDad Thank you so much!
Is it still holding ? Or the paint is peeling off? Please update the status.
So far through all the flooding the basement has been dry
Can you tile over this product?
I think I would put a coat on the bare 2x4's also. Not sure just a suggestion.
I am thinking the same thing. Now that I have extra dryloc I will go back and seal all the bottom boards as well
A contractor did spray foam on an entire wall. Can we use the product over that and expect it to work?
That is kind of a strange application for this product so not sure what the reason would have been for that
It was done over brick which is the upper section of the one wall where the shelf part of the foundation exists. They thought it would be better than sheetrocking because of how humid the basement is. But, that foam is sitting open to the air in the basement. The only time we go down there is to do laundry. But, I plan to put some recommendations to good use this spring that I have watched in some of these videos. Would love to not have to run the de-humidifier for 4 months straight.
Maybe install a french drain outside that back wall and you will be covered... awesome work!
+Rob Donaldson I would love to improve drainage on that wall but that side is under the main part of our house. I will be addressing the outside issues in another video later this month though
A complete waste of time and money if you don't get behind those exposed 2 X 4's.
Lost Nation he said there was no moisture on the walls but just wanted to do them. So shouldn’t make a difference.
Yes!
MadNomadM but wood draws moisture out of block and concrete...
No moisture on the walls, fyi for mr diy : it’s most prone to come in where the wall meets the floor. I’ve never seen moisture come through the floor but “not” where the wall meets the floor. This guy is a goddamn choid stick!!!! You can tell by the way he talks, he never even phantoms taking studs off a wall, he acted like that was the foundation of his home. And how about that “cool foam product”, that he found at Home Depot.... called spray foam. Wow thx for turning me onto that!!! What a wanker!!!!
Kurt Bluee i took my entire 2x4 off the wall after reading your comment.. I’m working on a brick foundation any recommendations to ensure I waterproof it correctly?
Spray foam holds moisture
Mice eat the spray foam. Need to pack holes with steel wool.
I agree. The deterrent in the rodent foam is only partly successful for a time. I like using Stainless Steel scrub pads from our local Dollar Store over steel wool as they won't rust if exposed to weather or moisture.
I'm planning on doing this in my basement. Then putting a dimpled underlayment n vinyl plank. The humidity can get to 70° plus there carpet right on the floor. Wtf were they thinking back then lol
My biggest question is why were you doing it barefoot
Nice work. Nice music. Awesome video. Subscribe.
While Drylock is a great product (and I do use it) it is NOT elastic and will crack. I would recommend an elastic base coating over the Drylock. I would also recommend using 'Rodent' foam sealer rather than simple open cell foam while you have the walls open and apply a water sealer to the wood. In this video it doesn't look like there is a vaper barrier under the 2x4 resting on the floor, a MUST in wet areas or replace the 2x4 with PT lumber.
Rodent foam is not effective against rodents. You have to fill the hole or gap with steel wool first then rodent foam or foam.
@@FarideLadak I agree. The deterrent in the foam is only partly successful for a time. I like using Stainless Steel scrub pads from our local Dollar Store over steel wool as they won't rust if exposed to weather or moisture.
@@pslowazo Peter, take a look at copper wool as well. You can find it in some stores including Lee Valley, as well as Amazon. It does rust or stain either. They say rodents don’t like the taste of copper.
Drylok works really well at waterproofing a basement that does not leak. If you have a significant leak, this will not work!
Is that even good if my wall leaking? If i whait the wall dry in the most dry part of the summer to put the drylok
It depends, this really isn't to stop big leaks, if that is the case you may want to address water issues from the outside first, this is more to prevent moisture from weeping through the concrete
dry lock the product you are using is only recomeded for wall check the can, Dry lock does make a clear coating for floors. but what you are using is the wrong product
I don't see why you couldn't use this for a concrete floor. It's still concrete and if you're going to cover it, who cares? I'd probably spray a clear sealer first, though.
@@ILC-eo6vk I'm guessing durability with foot traffic and whatever else that might wear it away.
there are other products made specifically for floors
@Mike G shut up. I wasn't talking to you, prick.
Anybody notice the GIANT bug crawling down the wall between the 2nd and third stud from the left at 3:53 ???
Good eye!
It was a cricket
Yep he was quick!
Did you see the big bug crawling on the wall when he was vacuuming?
can you Tile on top of it?
yes, but if you are going to tile you are going to seal it with tile adhesive anyway so you wouldn't need this
@@SSLFamilyDad what do you mean by "tile adhesive". Did you mean the mortar used for setting the tile..? I have noticed moisture on a section of the tiles n one room. I used no sealant, Just plain cement/mortar and tile. Any comment....? Thanks
Y are you people so negative 🙄???
You worrying bout his method of applying the waterproof paint w/o shoes 👞. Really?
There are other things to be seriously concerned about.
Get a life and critique your d@#$ self!!
You did a Good job !!
Thanks for the info/tips!!
PG my Brother
Spray foam is not porous.... all canned foam is closed cell foam. And water will get through no what paint you put over it, it’s called hydrostatic pressure that’s why you work on the drainage problems first.
(4:40) - Won't damp be able to get in behind those wooden joists ?
>
Possibly but we are not trying to make a boat out of the basement, just reduce the moisture that naturally wicks through cement
So why didn't they take care this problem when they built the house.
just pour it on the floor and spread with a roller.
this is why most basements leak (videos) and have some mold, efflorescence on inside ruclips.net/video/Tq_o7C6KMUA/видео.html ... deteriorating exterior bricks, mortar joints, cracks ruclips.net/video/5dpGpiB7kQI/видео.html and so installing any interior system or painting the walls doesn't waterproofed any of these exterior cracks etc
Love the video, but DRYLOK is not great and a very low PSI. We have to grind this stuff off all the time and put on a professional grade rubber membrane to solve these issues for our customers.
Put some shoes on for crying out loud
Why? It's his house. You hate your own feet too? 🤣
@3:50 I thought that bug was on my screen
Is that a cockroach on the wall at 3:54?
Organic wood touching concrete?? No insulation at all? Not even an air gap? Not acceptable. That Drylok thing only works to a certain extent. If a small leak is developed the water will sip right through. Hope your basement is super dry.
you man better work with shoes next time...:)
The man did not know the theory of water proof. The job was a failure sample in fact.
Ha that dehumidifier killed the rat
That's not going to stop water from coming up only going to stop water from going down
You’re worried about pin holes that didn’t get enough paint? What about all the areas behind the 2x4 framing that didn’t get done. Complete waste of time because you didn’t take that framing down before doing this. Hey guys I’m going to waterproof my basement walls and floors but I’m only going to do 95% of it. Don’t worry about that last 5%.
It is always a bad idea to waterproof masonry from the negative side using a waterproof coating The water in concrete will now leach the lime out of the concrete and the concrete will start to deteriorate.Please do not do this. I did waterproofing and sealants for 40 years. I have seen major structural damage done because of waterproofing from the inside.with a coating. The proper method is to use crystalline waterproofing that actually migrates into the pours of the concrete and stops the concrete from absorbing water and leaching out the lime.If you search for videos on basement waterproofing,you will see that none of the professionals waterproof by coating interior walls with a membrane waterproofing.There are also a few that show the damage it causes
Those gaps are your cove joints, never seal them!
Hahaha where are your shoes pal.
Great, seal it so the water sticks inside the cement instead and starts eating it up slowly and also risk mold, better to waterproof the house from the outside with alot of digging and using the right materials to waterproof your basement instead of thinking that some can of color will fix Everything.
I am pretty sure I never claimed this would fix everything. This product us only to close the pores on concrete to help with moisture that naturally seeps through even with good drainage around the home. It is better to seal the concrete before laying flooring rather than alow moisture to build up under a flooring product or in a wall space
Using a paint/sealant to stop basement water issues is a no-no. What you now have is a ticking time bomb. This is like trying to stop a leaking tire with a piece of bubblegum.
This was not done to stop leaks it was done to prevent moisture which happens on any concrete surface. Fixing drainage should always be done first if you are having leaking issues
Jesus
that stuff drylok extreme sucks....................................................
Drylock is a complete waste of money for waterproofing unless the concrete is sealed. It will just promote mold growth by accumulating moisture behind it. Considering you already have a drain and sump and still have moisture this was just a waste of your energy.
Drylock is not meant to prevent flooding or water leaks, just seals the inside of the concrete to prevent moisture. This is especially helpful in concrete block which is very porous and will allow moisture behind drywall or other enclosed walls. This was done on top of fixing gutters and having a properly drained footing/sump pump setup
@@SSLFamilyDad that's all great and dandy but if all that was done properly now u will not need drylock, nor would u need it if concrete was sealed. If you have moisture in your walls drylock is completely useless and will promote mold growth behind it. Drylock overall is a waste of money in most situations and only works as an extra cushion to already properly protected walls. It will never stop water leaks like you think it does.
To all that watched this u DO NOT want to seal out the water for your basement you want to re-direct it. If you seal too much water out the hydrostatic pressure can lift your home out of the ground and total your home completely. I suggest findin a legitimate basement waterproofing company in your area.
Geat video.music SUCKS