Very cool. I did the exact same putter a couple years ago and turned out very similar. Neat cause i only stumbled upon your videos the other day. I only hand sanded and glass bead blasted so was unable to get out all the nicks and dents as well as you.
Thanks! Wanted to change it up a bit. Was going to do some custom stamping on the back but decided against it. If I decide to keep this I may later on, or on a different putter.
I’m working on a Scotty Cameron TE I3 right now. I think the body is made of carbon steel, and has a black oxide finish. I want to remove the finish it has now so I can torch finish it, but I’m not sure how to remove the finish. Should I try bathing it in an acid?
I sand or bead blast finishes off. So in order to do a torch on a carbon putter, I would start by getting all the nicks and dings out first, then bead blast with glass bead, then torch.
Great video! Quick question, does the wheel your using to sand down the imperfections have to be a certain grit or does it not come in different variations? Thanks!
I have 2 slight scratches (can barely feel with fingernail) on the underside of my Scotty Cameron Special Select Newport 2, any at home tips for removing? What grit sandpaper (if any), etc?
Honestly its not really possible to just fix one specific area of scratches. As soon as you cut into that factory finish it will never look right unless you finish the entire putter. Or if you have a sand blaster. I guess it all depends on what you're looking to achieve from it.
@@igolf906 Thanks for the tip! I'll chalk up the scratches to "seasoning" the putter 😂 I bought this Scotty last year and plan for it to be my lifetime putter anyways. I'll always remember the first scratches
So bloody awesome! What black paint did you use on the putter and how course is the grinder..is it like steel brush or something else? And what did you use to remove the initial paint?
No. Especially with that high of grit media and low psi. If you're using a very rough grit blast media on extremely high psi settings it might dull out the milling quite a bit but its not removed.
Yes. There was a little discoloration still after the acetone soak so, I blasted it quick just to get rid of it before continuing. Probably wasn't needed, considering I put it through another blasting process but, I like it clean to start. 🙂
@@igolf906 some people you can get away with just the wheels, some say blasting always after grinding to finish cleaning up any left over minor nicks/dings, some say blast first, some say blast after grinding. I just imagine blasting always needed after grinding to give an even clean finish before moving to polishing. I can’t imagine a reason to ever blast after polishing.
@@JoshMG Blasting after polishing doesn't make sense. But yes it all depends on what type of finish you're looking for. Everyone does it different. But blasting before polishing wouldn't really make sense either because it's not going to leave it in a fine enough state to polish. Unless you find a 300-400 grit blast media, I don't see how that would work. A high Polish takes a lot of smooth gradual grinding, and buffing.
@@igolf906ahhh I see because I reverbished a carbon steel one and it started to rust slightly so have to take it back to workshop and try to prevent the rust any tips
If you're not coating raw carbon steel with something, then the only thing you can really do to slow down rust is a high polish. Maybe along side a torch and oil quench. But either way it's going to rust not be coated with anything.
also, i don't have the tools for sandblasting. think it's ok if i omit it? or is there an alternative? thanks so much, i really appreciate your advice here
Currently I'm using wheels just labeled as FINE. I would say they're equivalent to a 220-320 wheel. Check a few of my newer videos I have links to all the tools and supplies I use in my videos.
Usually between 50 and 60. Im currently uploading a video on all the different blast finishes I can make and which ones look better at lower and higher psi.
@@fistic001 There a many different grades and grits but. I'm still learning which ones to use and not. I started originally by using 120 grit all the way up to 320 grit. But now I'm just using one wheel, usually the finest one you can find.
It's a convolute/deburring wheel. Many different brands and models. If you check some of my newer videos there's links in the description on the exact wheels I use if you're looking to purchase some.
It all depends on the type of putter and finish you're looking for but for something like this, I charge $75 + return shipping. If you're interested in getting something done feel free to email me at igolf906@gmail.com.
@@golfatit3140 The "Chrome" ring you are speaking of is just a milled part of the putter. It doesn't come off unless you sand it back, to where it's not shiny.
It' looks good and because Scotty Cameron putters are so very valuable and collectable I worry that you have destroyed some of the value and collectability of the putter. I could also see other collectors being confused and accusing you of counterfeiting. It's a slippery slope your on.
I've done hundreds of Scotties for people. Have sold some of my own restores for well more than market value. There is a market for restored putters. And I have yet to have an issue with anything. On top of that, hard-core collectors don't collect OTR putters. They're into the Limited releases and CTs.
Although I agree with you, it has been suggested that a new putter, or a putter you truly love the look of, CAN give you more confidence with your putting stroke. Therefore, could make you more putts 🤷♂️
Excellent results! You handled that chatter perfectly.
Black shaft and grip and that would one of the sexiest putters out there. Cool to see how much nicer you made it.
Thanks!
Excellent work! The previous owner(s) had no regard for that putter with all of the dings that were on it.
Thanks. For sure!
Looks good I like the finish the glass beads produce!!!!
That's nice work!
Thank you!
Very cool. I did the exact same putter a couple years ago and turned out very similar. Neat cause i only stumbled upon your videos the other day. I only hand sanded and glass bead blasted so was unable to get out all the nicks and dents as well as you.
Nice! Well thanks for watching! Will trying out new finishes in the near future!
Like the black vs the original red, great work putter is awesome.
Thanks! Wanted to change it up a bit. Was going to do some custom stamping on the back but decided against it. If I decide to keep this I may later on, or on a different putter.
Very nice video. TY for posting. I learned a lot and will give it a try on an old PING putter first and then give it a shot on my Scotty. Shoot LoW.
Nice work, looks amazing!
Thanks!
Well done.
Thanks!
Good work’!!
Love watching your vids!
Thank you! More videos coming very soon! More Scotties too!
@@igolf906 awesome!
that was a masterclass!
Thanks so much!
Very nice got a laguna 1.5 might go for same look
How did you clean up the face without taking off the milling effect great work by the way
Lightly sandblasting.
Great work! Can you confirm what paint you use to fill in the words and what you are using to remove the excess?
Thanks! Tamiya or Testors brand paint depending on the color. And acetone to clean up.
Beautiful putter
Thank you!
I have a golo 6 customized but did not get letter of authenticity. I think I’m gonna go ahead and get one.
I’m working on a Scotty Cameron TE I3 right now. I think the body is made of carbon steel, and has a black oxide finish. I want to remove the finish it has now so I can torch finish it, but I’m not sure how to remove the finish. Should I try bathing it in an acid?
I sand or bead blast finishes off. So in order to do a torch on a carbon putter, I would start by getting all the nicks and dings out first, then bead blast with glass bead, then torch.
@@igolf906 is there any other way I can go about removing the finish if I don’t have access to equipment needed to bead blast?
Medium Garnet Red Metalic. Perfect match.
Tamiya X27. Has to be translucent! But it's close!
Very cool, and well done. How much weight is typically lost after refinishing? Thanks.
On average usually between 3-5 grams. I've had a few that were around 6-8 but it's rare.
Could you fix my Scotty Cameron Putter? If so, How much would you charge? Thanks, Tim
Shoot me an email
Great video! Quick question, does the wheel your using to sand down the imperfections have to be a certain grit or does it not come in different variations? Thanks!
Most of them are just fine or coarse. Obviously am using the fine but. There are some brands that go by grit and I suggest 220 to 320
Thank you!@@igolf906
I have 2 slight scratches (can barely feel with fingernail) on the underside of my Scotty Cameron Special Select Newport 2, any at home tips for removing? What grit sandpaper (if any), etc?
Honestly its not really possible to just fix one specific area of scratches. As soon as you cut into that factory finish it will never look right unless you finish the entire putter. Or if you have a sand blaster. I guess it all depends on what you're looking to achieve from it.
@@igolf906 Thanks for the tip! I'll chalk up the scratches to "seasoning" the putter 😂 I bought this Scotty last year and plan for it to be my lifetime putter anyways. I'll always remember the first scratches
Awesome work! Do you use any products on the surface after the final blast to preserve the finish/prevent rust?
Thanks! And no, these style putters are stainless steel, so no coating is needed.
So bloody awesome!
What black paint did you use on the putter and how course is the grinder..is it like steel brush or something else?
And what did you use to remove the initial paint?
Thanks! It's Testors gloss black paint. The wheels I use are fine grit Convolute wheels. And I also use acetone to get the initial paint off.
Ah awesome. Love how clean it comes out!
Thanks, always interesting to know how's its done
What do you charge for a job like this. I have a putter same condition. Tks
Shoot me an email.
How much to do my Scotty Cameron that was passed down to me from my grandpa. It’s extremely beat up but I’d love to keep it in the family.
Shoot me an email
Doesn’t the sand blasting remove the milling?
No. Especially with that high of grit media and low psi. If you're using a very rough grit blast media on extremely high psi settings it might dull out the milling quite a bit but its not removed.
what year was this model of Scotty Newport?
2008-2011
How do you get the extra paint off the surface after you fill the letters?
Paper towel, q-tips, acetone & patience.
What type of paint did use?
Tamiya
Purpose of sandblasting first here? Solely to remove paint?
Yes. There was a little discoloration still after the acetone soak so, I blasted it quick just to get rid of it before continuing. Probably wasn't needed, considering I put it through another blasting process but, I like it clean to start. 🙂
@@igolf906 some people you can get away with just the wheels, some say blasting always after grinding to finish cleaning up any left over minor nicks/dings, some say blast first, some say blast after grinding. I just imagine blasting always needed after grinding to give an even clean finish before moving to polishing. I can’t imagine a reason to ever blast after polishing.
@@JoshMG Blasting after polishing doesn't make sense. But yes it all depends on what type of finish you're looking for. Everyone does it different. But blasting before polishing wouldn't really make sense either because it's not going to leave it in a fine enough state to polish. Unless you find a 300-400 grit blast media, I don't see how that would work. A high Polish takes a lot of smooth gradual grinding, and buffing.
Where did you get the 180/220 grit blast media?
McMasterCarr
Do you do anything to the face? I have one that looks like this and has a Nick right on the toe.
I get the faces remilled if it's requested.
Saaaweet
If u took it back to bare metal how would u stop it from rusting in future
It's stainless steel.
@@igolf906ahhh I see because I reverbished a carbon steel one and it started to rust slightly so have to take it back to workshop and try to prevent the rust any tips
If you're not coating raw carbon steel with something, then the only thing you can really do to slow down rust is a high polish. Maybe along side a torch and oil quench. But either way it's going to rust not be coated with anything.
can you provide all your materials used? i'm about to try this on mine....
also, i don't have the tools for sandblasting. think it's ok if i omit it? or is there an alternative? thanks so much, i really appreciate your advice here
Check my description, it lists nearly everything I use. If you're going to try cerakoting, you absolutely can not skip sandblasting.
What’s the grit on your grinder wheel?
Currently I'm using wheels just labeled as FINE. I would say they're equivalent to a 220-320 wheel. Check a few of my newer videos I have links to all the tools and supplies I use in my videos.
@@igolf906 thanks man!
what psi did you set on the air compressure when you are sand blasting?
3:38
Usually between 50 and 60. Im currently uploading a video on all the different blast finishes I can make and which ones look better at lower and higher psi.
@@igolf906 awsome! thanks for the reply!
will be waiting for your new video then :)
@@KYK12355 after making this video I came up with a few more ideas to try so. Always learning!
How much for you did one?
Shoot me an email
It would be even better if the face can be re-milled. I think the cost of milling is absurdly high.
Ive had a few milled recently. Check my a few my most recent videos. If you find the right people to do it it's not too bad.
Dang brother
Thanks!
What is the attached on your bench grinder?
It's a convolute finishing wheel. Soft enough that it doesn't tear up the steel, but rigid enough to smooth out dents and dings.
@@igolf906 what grade is the wheel? Or is this only one kind?
@@fistic001 There a many different grades and grits but. I'm still learning which ones to use and not. I started originally by using 120 grit all the way up to 320 grit. But now I'm just using one wheel, usually the finest one you can find.
what’s the exact name of that wheel on the bench grinder mate?
It's a convolute/deburring wheel. Many different brands and models. If you check some of my newer videos there's links in the description on the exact wheels I use if you're looking to purchase some.
@@igolf906 awesome cheers mate. great work
@@tjwizzler5711 Thanks a lot!
How much does something like that cost?
It all depends on the type of putter and finish you're looking for but for something like this, I charge $75 + return shipping. If you're interested in getting something done feel free to email me at igolf906@gmail.com.
nial polish for paint fill?
Nope it's Testors Enamel.
How do u remove the 3 red circles on the back ?
With acetone.
@@igolf906 mine has like a chrome ring around it ..black select Newport 2
@@golfatit3140 Yup. From the factory the dots are pretty shiny.
@@igolf906 so my question is , does the chrome ring around the red dots come off as well ?
@@golfatit3140 The "Chrome" ring you are speaking of is just a milled part of the putter. It doesn't come off unless you sand it back, to where it's not shiny.
Hi, kann man Ihnen auch Putter schicken die sie für einen Restaurieren?
If you live in the US, yes depending on what you need.
It' looks good and because Scotty Cameron putters are so very valuable and collectable I worry that you have destroyed some of the value and collectability of the putter. I could also see other collectors being confused and accusing you of counterfeiting. It's a slippery slope your on.
I've done hundreds of Scotties for people. Have sold some of my own restores for well more than market value. There is a market for restored putters. And I have yet to have an issue with anything. On top of that, hard-core collectors don't collect OTR putters. They're into the Limited releases and CTs.
$100 putter or a $1000 putter, it makes no difference .You either can putt or you can't.
Although I agree with you, it has been suggested that a new putter, or a putter you truly love the look of, CAN give you more confidence with your putting stroke. Therefore, could make you more putts 🤷♂️
What kind of paint do you use?
Tamiya or Testors for paintfill