Your channel just gets better and better. I'm not a petrolhead but I find your videos fascinating. Pure professionalism. The reconfigured workshop is a quantum leap. Your honesty is as refreshing as a deep tissue massage, followed by a sauna, followed by a dip in a Norwegian fjord, followed by a good thrashing with birch branches. Thank you very much. All the very best.
My first encounter with wet liners was my own Renault R8 which was given to me as a gift. Quickly found out why it was a gift though. All the liners had been cut down so that they were BELOW the block the amount that they were supposed to be above the block and once the owner realized his mistake he gave up and donated it to me. So I figured out how thick of a spacer was needed to get them all above spec height, spent hours with a fret saw and a super fine toothed blade and cut lower sleeve spacers out of the appropriate brass shim stock, tested the heights and adjusted them accordingly and assembled the motor. Ran like a dream and eventually swapped it for a 62 Studebaker Lark with a 65 police spec Stud Daytona Chevy motor in boxes in the boot. THAT car was fun... The motor had all the heavy duty fast and reliable parts as standard...
Lee, the K series, I have the MG TF, rebuilt it twice. Once due to HGF and second as I put it in storage for 7 years and just this week put it back on the road. Your correct 4 thou proud. I would say they used the wrong gasket. I used the Victor rienze multi layer. I did the previous build at about 30k miles and just redone it at 61k I wanted to put the stiffer oil rail on and use the uprated bolts this time. The VR gasket was good when I stripped it, so had been good for 30k. If he has not got the uprated oil rail and uprated stretch bolts, would highly recommend them. Plus recommend the VR head gasket. I also did some dremel work on the head where the water gets to the head, the head castings can be crap and opening them up to the correct size helps head cooling. I would add some pictures but don’t think I can.
A great video brought back lots of memories seeing that Ford block . I worked for a plant hire company (plant Engineering Services ) in Truro and we were a Ford construction Equipment dealer . On the 550 Backhoe loader which had this engine they suffered from cavitation in the water pump area which caused a small pinhole in the front of number 1 cylinder which caused the engine to lock up if it was stopped and the piston was at BDC . Ford had tried having block bored and sleeved , but then supplied the customer with a new block FOC . We took the block and the pistons to a machine shop and honed the cylinders to give 12 thou clearance .
When you've seen a straight six BL Iron block cracked straight through the front across and inbetween the "freeze" plugs at minus 7°C maybe that'll make you realise they are not really "Freeze" plugs. They are called core plugs because they seal off the hollow core of the cast item after casting, machining and cleaning the item.
Check any new head gasket that you use for the K series engine. I had one recently which blew out the water in 5 miles. It had a tiny dent in the firer ring. They are very vulnerable in plastic bags.
Regarding the gasket that doesn't look right - I have found some websites get the pictures mixed up. Best to check the parts against a Subaru schematic if you're not sure & cross reference the part numbers 👌
The rover k series is a brilliant engine , some people mistake pressurisation of water system in these engines due to the fact the coolant runs through the intake manifold and the gaskets can fail
It looked very scabby… might have been sat a long time after rebuild ? If BE go through it then all should be well…. will be good to see a good engine revived and racing !
When removing a head, always got to check the torque of every bolt. Also core plugs, they only go rusty when not using antifreeze, no need to change them. But if it's been losing coolant and topping up with water, that's a big problem.
You use the Payen type gasket on liners that are flush, which looks like the gasket type used. If it’s 4 thou flush as Lee says he will make sure it is. Victor Reinz is the best option.
Subaru's esp are far better with a air to water intercooler rather than air to air as apart from not suffering heat soak when coolers on top of engine running with a water one it's a controlled environment where as air to air is reliant on cooled/ambient air temps!. And deff a baffled sump! oil surge is no fun. go check some of the Nordschlife Vids on here Misha Charoudin has had a few on his drives! Don't any of you use Electric oil pumps and water pumps yet? Want a laugh my cousin rang MG etc about valve timings/clearances etc with the VVT head.Woman on other end Ho no you can't rebuild them yaddah yaddah To which he replied Ho i already have! Engine ran sweet so must have got it right. Mind know someone that replaced some Cacked valves on a Rover one put it all back together! and bent the valves again! Didn't do the setting up and back off the mark bring to TDC then bring valves back on the mark!
How stupid. NEVER, EVER sandblast or bead blast ANY part of an engine or intake system. Aluminium parts will retain whatever medium you blast it with, and cast iron is almost as retentive. People need to develop a better idea of common sense methods.
Your channel just gets better and better. I'm not a petrolhead but I find your videos fascinating. Pure professionalism. The reconfigured workshop is a quantum leap. Your honesty is as refreshing as a deep tissue massage, followed by a sauna, followed by a dip in a Norwegian fjord, followed by a good thrashing with birch branches. Thank you very much. All the very best.
My first encounter with wet liners was my own Renault R8 which was given to me as a gift.
Quickly found out why it was a gift though.
All the liners had been cut down so that they were BELOW the block the amount that they were supposed to be above the block and once the owner realized his mistake he gave up and donated it to me.
So I figured out how thick of a spacer was needed to get them all above spec height, spent hours with a fret saw and a super fine toothed blade and cut lower sleeve spacers out of the appropriate brass shim stock, tested the heights and adjusted them accordingly and assembled the motor.
Ran like a dream and eventually swapped it for a 62 Studebaker Lark with a 65 police spec Stud Daytona Chevy motor in boxes in the boot.
THAT car was fun... The motor had all the heavy duty fast and reliable parts as standard...
Lee, the K series, I have the MG TF, rebuilt it twice. Once due to HGF and second as I put it in storage for 7 years and just this week put it back on the road. Your correct 4 thou proud. I would say they used the wrong gasket. I used the Victor rienze multi layer. I did the previous build at about 30k miles and just redone it at 61k I wanted to put the stiffer oil rail on and use the uprated bolts this time. The VR gasket was good when I stripped it, so had been good for 30k. If he has not got the uprated oil rail and uprated stretch bolts, would highly recommend them. Plus recommend the VR head gasket. I also did some dremel work on the head where the water gets to the head, the head castings can be crap and opening them up to the correct size helps head cooling.
I would add some pictures but don’t think I can.
A great video brought back lots of memories seeing that Ford block . I worked for a plant hire company (plant Engineering Services ) in Truro and we were a Ford construction Equipment dealer . On the 550 Backhoe loader which had this engine they suffered from cavitation in the water pump area which caused a small pinhole in the front of number 1 cylinder which caused the engine to lock up if it was stopped and the piston was at BDC . Ford had tried having block bored and sleeved , but then supplied the customer with a new block FOC . We took the block and the pistons to a machine shop and honed the cylinders to give 12 thou clearance .
If Isaac's Subie is going on track the sump baffle is a must have, oil pickup upgrade is a good idea also
For the oil system. If your going to track and use on the street. Highly recommended IAG pan and pickup. Can't go wrong!
Another great video mate, K series head gasket is the modified mls , that's the one you want to use.
Nope wrong...all depends on liner heights
Kalebs turned into a good Engine builder !💪👍
@2:19 I can't remember how many times I've had to "correct" my friends while building engines that they are NOT 'Freeze Plugs" but core plugs!
To me they are Frost Plugs, called them that from 1st day of apprenticeship. We used to always fit brass or stainless steel plugs when replacing them.
When you've seen a straight six BL Iron block cracked straight through the front across and inbetween the "freeze" plugs at minus 7°C maybe that'll make you realise they are not really "Freeze" plugs. They are called core plugs because they seal off the hollow core of the cast item after casting, machining and cleaning the item.
In Australia they are called welch plugs.
I could never keep the core plugs in my flathead V8 engine in my Ford Pilot....always leaked or popped L
Why is he using that type of head gasket ,should be a multi layer if he's racing it .
A lot of people building these have gone back to an o.e. style gasket. It's not really the Gasket that causes the head gasket problems.
Isaac, try looking that gasket up from referencing the turbo's part number... may be an easier way to find that gasket...
Thought I'd got over Rover K series head gasket issues and now you've done this you naughty man!! Lol
Check any new head gasket that you use for the K series engine. I had one recently which blew out the water in 5 miles. It had a tiny dent in the firer ring. They are very vulnerable in plastic bags.
That K series rover has the wrong head gasket and probably had the plastic head dowls too! Bring it into this century please!!
I would of liked some information on the old side valve engine I saw in the background
Regarding the gasket that doesn't look right - I have found some websites get the pictures mixed up.
Best to check the parts against a Subaru schematic if you're not sure & cross reference the part numbers 👌
The engine clean raoom is looking good. Do we notice bits of your kit car, that are creeping along the floor into your engine clean room??
Speak to Alyn @ AS Performance in Birtley, Co Durham about Subaru stuff... Not super expensive like some others, and a genuine guy!
The rover k series is a brilliant engine , some people mistake pressurisation of water system in these engines due to the fact the coolant runs through the intake manifold and the gaskets can fail
I see John's Austin is still on the lift, any progress?
My guess is a sunk liner on that k series. Also in my experience, those type of gaskets just don't last. Victor reinz mls is the way to go.
Subaru questions? Subi performance on RUclips.
12:03 That's clever. I'll remember that
What was that on the lift in the background is this your little secret?
That Rover engine only covered 500miles ?
since rebuild
@@colinscutt5104 those spark plugs look like they have done more than 500miles let alone the wear on the bore, carbon on the head etc etc
It looked very scabby… might have been sat a long time after rebuild ?
If BE go through it then all should be well…. will be good to see a good engine revived and racing !
The answer is the right foot was heavier than the brain in supposed control of it😮
You need to address the whistling on the sound as it is very irritating.
No whistling at my end.
I'd never own a car with a K series engine similar to my freinds that had them. Now't but trouble.
deffo get the sump kit and while nobody is looking accidentally order the forged stroker kit ;) Man I miss my RCM WRX! would spank that Lambo!
Just a K Series doing normal K Series stuff 😂😂😂😂
When removing a head, always got to check the torque of every bolt. Also core plugs, they only go rusty when not using antifreeze, no need to change them. But if it's been losing coolant and topping up with water, that's a big problem.
I think I may have missed a segment on what looks like an Austin 7 special. If so, where can I find it?
That's John's car, so you won't see much. I wish he would finish it and send it to me. 😊
@@minigpracing3068 Well, I want to see more of it.
who the hell refits a metal elastomar gasket?
Anything with a Rover badge will break down, no matter how new or old they are.
That gasket is crap multi layer gaskets only for rovers why do people use them single layer ones with a little line of mastic no good
You use the Payen type gasket on liners that are flush, which looks like the gasket type used. If it’s 4 thou flush as Lee says he will make sure it is. Victor Reinz is the best option.
Subaru's esp are far better with a air to water intercooler rather than air to air as apart from not suffering heat soak when coolers on top of engine running with a water one it's a controlled environment where as air to air is reliant on cooled/ambient air temps!.
And deff a baffled sump! oil surge is no fun. go check some of the Nordschlife Vids on here Misha Charoudin has had a few on his drives!
Don't any of you use Electric oil pumps and water pumps yet?
Want a laugh my cousin rang MG etc about valve timings/clearances etc with the VVT head.Woman on other end Ho no you can't rebuild them yaddah yaddah To which he replied Ho i already have! Engine ran sweet so must have got it right.
Mind know someone that replaced some Cacked valves on a Rover one put it all back together! and bent the valves again! Didn't do the setting up and back off the mark bring to TDC then bring valves back on the mark!
How stupid. NEVER, EVER sandblast or bead blast ANY part of an engine or intake system. Aluminium parts will retain whatever medium you blast it with, and cast iron is almost as retentive. People need to develop a better idea of common sense methods.
Baron why don't you cover your arse and invest in a Dyno,